Off to explore Egypt!
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
BI
February 9 - Day 1

"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"

Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.

Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!

And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?

Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.



And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!









Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!





What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...







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BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
February 10 - Day 2

Our phone alarm goes off. It's 5 a.m., and Cairo is waking uuuup. Cairo is waking up early just for us to enjoy breakfast on a terrace with a view of the pyramids soaking up the first rays of the sun! And Cairo is waking up this early so we can be first in line when the gates open and find ourselves face-to... well, no nose, with the Sphinx, so it can share its secrets with us.





Sphinx you very much for the pun—it was an easy one! Anyway, twenty years later, the emotion is still just as palpable. And the awe on the faces of my three travel buddies is a joy to see. Twenty years later, the ladies Khufu, Khafre, and Menkaure still aren’t one-size-fits-all: their size still blows me away! Okay, here are some mind-blowing stats for you... With all the stone blocks that make up just the Great Pyramid of Khufu, you could’ve built a 2-meter-high wall around all of France! 2.3 million stacked blocks, with the tip reaching 147 meters high—like a stairway for the pharaoh to reach his final celestial resting place. One heck of a giant Lego set! We’re living magical moments walking alongside these giants, solo in the ghetto...









After passing Menkaure, we head out into the desert to take in that famous panorama. You know, the one we’ve all seen in books, on TV, or in magazines—the one that’s been stuck in our imaginations. We just sit... and soak it all in. In the distance, we watch the camel drivers swarm like a school of piranhas on a steak tartare, diving at the first few tourist buses starting to clutter the landscape. Meanwhile, we pat ourselves on the back for being early birds and thank the god Ra for giving us these treasures all to ourselves for nearly three hours.







BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Day 2 (continued)

Back on the bus to the exit, the magic of our arrival has now given way to an atmosphere like a Carrefour on the last weekend before Christmas!





The majestic Pyramids of Giza are the most famous Egyptian pyramids. If you translate this last sentence, it means there are others! 139 to be exact, according to the calculator. Anyway, 139 discovered so far. Grab a good shovel and maybe you’ll find the 140th! As for us, we’re off to discover others basking in the sun south of Cairo. Heading to Dahshur with the taxi we just snagged for twenty euros for the rest of the day.

Dahshur is the ancestor of Giza. This is where the ancient Egyptians cut their teeth before finally building the magnificent Pyramids of Giza. There are many pyramids on site, but you’ll only see two up close: the Bent Pyramid and the Red Pyramid, respectively the fourth and third largest pyramids in Egypt.





These two pyramids are the celestial homes of Pharaoh Sneferu, daddy of little Khufu. Two pyramids for one dead guy? A bit of mummy on the left, a bit on the right? No! The first one wasn’t to the future mummy’s taste, so she ordered Santa for a second monument without letting the cement mixer cool down. The first is the Bent Pyramid with its... weird shape. The second, the Red Pyramid, is the one we’re descending into right now. To do this, a narrow, long, dark, claustrophobic corridor—aka "the butt-fatiguing tunnel"—lets us climb down into the beast’s lair.

We switch from tourist mode to Champollion-style spelunker mode, specializing in applied pyramid descent! Translation: You fold your 1.85m to frog mode and squeeze into the shaft as best you can—in other words, not very Fashion Week. After the suffering, the reward: reaching the burial chamber. Not a sound, total silence. We’re alone with the spirit of Sneferu haunting the place. We feel a connection to the past, as if the walls are whispering the history of centuries gone by. The air is heavy and humid. The pyramid reminds us that the ventilation system installed back then is out of order.





Now it’s the Bent Pyramid’s turn. Oops, my pencil slipped, boss! Mistake in the angle, but I’ll fix it and tourists in 4,600 years won’t notice a thing! In the end, this one will be our favorite, especially for its "cozy" interior...



BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Day 2 (continued)

Next stop, the Saqqara site, which is on our way back to Cairo. The road is stunning, by the way—you wind through a vast forest of date palms. Stunning... if you ignore the river running alongside it that doubles as a dumping ground. No comment...

Okay, let’s be honest: Saqqara didn’t captivate us as much as its counterparts. Main reason? Many tombs were either inaccessible or not included in the already pricey ticket: “My tomb is closed today, but I’ll open it just for you—exceptionally!” On top of that, the local police and guards are clearly fans of the *aggressive* tip culture, and that really gets under my skin! All we’ll remember here is the Step Pyramid of Djoser and the Tomb of Teti I, where we saw our first real hieroglyphs.









To wrap up this first real Egyptian day, we head back to Cairo, wander through the electronics souk to soak up the city’s vibe, and end up at an institution: Koshari Abou Tarek, where—according to the restaurant itself—you can eat the best koshari in the country. Koshari is Egypt’s national dish, invented one day when a mom had a bunch of leftovers and decided to throw it all together: pasta, rice, chickpeas, tomatoes, and a good dose of spices to tie it all together! The combo might seem random, but it works... and it fills you up for cheap!



Okay, seeing the pyramids with your own eyes is a dream for everyone, and today that dream was more than fulfilled! But Egypt isn’t just about geometry! Of course, there are temples, the Nile, and the desert—but don’t make the mistake of forgetting the Red Sea! For our part, we wouldn’t dare; that’s why we’re now hopping on an overnight bus to its coastline. To another continent. To Dahab! Goodnight, everyone—enjoy your evening, because we sure won’t be...
MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Another travel journal! 😎 I read it, but I won’t be heading to Lithuania. On the other hand, Egypt without mass tourism sounds amazing!
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Another travel journal! 😎 I read it, but I won’t be going to Lithuania. On the other hand, Egypt without mass tourism would be amazing!

With a few tips, we managed to get out of it. I’ll share all the details in the next post... 😛
FR FrançoiseVec Regular ·
Yay, a new travel journal! We’re planning a trip to Egypt next January, sandwiched between Morocco and Uzbekistan. For us, it’ll also be a return to Egypt after a first amazing trip *ages* ago. Thanks for all your great travel journals!
FA FamilleUS Veteran ·
Another travel journal! 😎 I read it but I won’t be going to Lithuania. On the other hand, Egypt without mass tourism would be a dream!

I’m heading to Egypt where I can confirm you’ve got to get up early to avoid the crowds... or travel during a year of the "Arab Spring" ;)

MU Muriel18 Globetrotter ·
Another travel journal! 😎 I read it but I won’t be going to Lithuania. On the other hand, Egypt without mass tourism would be amazing!

I’m heading to Egypt where I can confirm you’ve got to get up early to avoid the crowds... or else travel during a year of the "Arab Spring" ;)

Getting up early isn’t a problem. However, I’m not adventurous enough to travel during another Arab Spring (but maybe Franck and Flo would be) 😏
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Awesome, a new travel journal! And Egypt is on the itinerary for next January, between Morocco and Uzbekistan for us too. It’ll also be our return to Egypt after a first amazing trip ages ago. Thanks for all your great travel journals!

With my Egypt travel journal and the one I’m wrapping up on Uzbekistan, you’ve got the full set! 😇
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Get up early, travel somewhere else or differently (without having to wait for another Arab Spring). I'll tell you all about it! 😛
TH Thoutmosis Regular ·
Hello everyone, What a fantastic report—straight to the point, with a touch of humor, perfect! We want more—bravo! Glad your trip went well, especially with the local connections. Thoutmosis
SO Solene40 Globetrotter ·
This new travel journal from Franck is awesome. I’m convinced you can travel "differently" just about anywhere, but I haven’t managed to convince my husband yet for Egypt because of that infamous mass tourism! I’m sure you’ll help me change his mind, so thanks in advance 😊. When was your trip? Christelle
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
Love this new travel journal, Franck. I’m convinced you can travel "differently" almost anywhere, but I haven’t managed to convince my husband about Egypt yet because of that infamous mass tourism! I’m sure you’ll help me change his mind, so thanks in advance 😊. When was your trip? Christelle

I hope so for you! It was last February!
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
This new travel journal of yours is amazing, Franck. I’m convinced you can travel "differently" just about anywhere, but I haven’t managed to convince my husband yet for Egypt because of that dreaded mass tourism! I’m sure you’ll help me change his mind, so thanks in advance 😊. When was your trip? Christelle

February 2025! And yes, we had great interactions with locals because we stayed as far away as possible from tourist spots during peak hours. You’ll find some fun anecdotes in the next few days...
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
I'm heading to Egypt, a country I loved exploring by cruise, in groups, solo, by train, bus, minibus, and even in a beat-up taxi back when my wallet had francs instead of euros...

Another way to avoid mass tourism is to go in August... With temperatures hitting 40-48°C, the crowds thin out pretty fast! 😄

After the Hatshepsut attack, it was also very quiet.

A bit surprising to see plainclothes police with guns on trains, but hey, you can't have everything.

Is your trip taking you toward the desert and the oases?
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
These next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park, neither for our two daughters who are coming with us, nor for our bodies!

Ahhh, Egypt...

It’s at the top of my personal podium for countries with *super* high traveler’s diarrhea risk

In terms of elevation changes, though, it should be a breeze compared to Réunion!😉
BI Bibouns51 Globetrotter ·
I’m heading to Egypt, a country I loved traveling through by cruise, in groups, solo, by train, bus, minibus, and even in beat-up taxis back when my wallet still had francs instead of euros...

Another way to avoid mass tourism is to go in August... With temps hitting 40-48°C, the crowds thin out fast...😄

After the Hatshepsut attack, it was really quiet too.

A little surprising to see plainclothes cops with guns on trains, but hey, you can’t have everything.

Is your trip veering toward the desert and oases?

No, more toward the Sinai...
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
So I might have spoken a bit too soon when I said there wouldn’t be any elevation changes...😇
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
No, more like in the Sinai...

I’ll be keeping an eye on this. Personally, I only know that part of Egypt, along with Cairo and Alexandria... Once on my own when the Sinai was Israeli, and a second time with my family, with a 7-year-old kid when it was Egyptian. I’ve always avoided—probably wrongly—all the sites along the Nile.

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