From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity

Hi everyone,

I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.

The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:

-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)



-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)



-->7 days in Tokyo



The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.

I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.

We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!

Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:

finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???

What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.

The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!

PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...

Nine Bretons in the USA from June 24 to July 20, 2018: Greenery and mosquitoes in the North, heat and storms in the South

Choosing the trip:

After returning from the USA in 2014 (travel journal here), it was clear we’d go back, this time with the firm intention of bringing our kids. 😇

2015 was the year of Scotland (travel journal here), 2016 was a work year, and 2017 was the discovery of Aragon in Spain (travel journal here)… Meanwhile, our kids’ age still seemed like a hurdle for this kind of trip. The long wait turned out to be an advantage, letting us refine the project and rally others: what started as a two-week trip for four turned into three weeks for nine!! JF’s parents (M&P, who’d already been in 2014) and JF’s brother (C&D&Y) joined our little family (C&JF&A&L)!!😎 After plenty of family discussions, route tweaks, travel journal reads, and advice from VF (plus some specialized books like Photographing the Southwest by Laurent Martrès), we made up our minds—fully aware of the constraints—and split the trip in two:

- First week, just the four of us in an SUV + hotels, looping from LV (Valley of Fire, Saint George, Bryce, Kanab), focusing on rocky, sandy, and colorful hikes: - Followed by two weeks with nine people in 2 RVs + campgrounds, as close to nature as possible in the parks (Snow Canyon, Kodachrome, Yellowstone, Arches, Canyonlands, Dead Horse, Monument Valley, Grand Canyon): 🙂Before going further, we want to thank the forum members who took the time to answer our questions. Your patience and kindness are amazing! We might forget someone, but thank you all: Jpg13, Mlefebvre, Kast13,Glll2012New, PCecile, Aquilegia, Adumas4, Ju45, Mycovtt, Natb72, Soula1, Orionide, Simonic, Hiacinthe, etc.

Traveling with nine people (ages 9 to 76, including three kids!!) requires some serious logistics and near-perfect timing to avoid wasting time. The plan went off without a hitch😎… well, almost—we’ll get into the details later…😛🏴‍☠️🙂 In the end, we came back enchanted and happy!! 🙂The family aspect played a big part, but we also discovered spots that were much less crowded, definitely less known to the general public and the hordes of Asian tourists… The kids returned with stars in their eyes, and the adults with just as many memories (plus around 1,200 photos and 130 GB of GoPro video to sort through)!!😎 We’re already feeling the itch to go back—a Denver loop is starting to take shape…😇

Thoughts on the Americans we met and places we visited: They haven’t changed since 2014… Still cool, optimistic, and smiling, always ready to strike up a conversation and offer help—even without the lure of our tourist dollars. (Only two cold locals at Monument Valley clearly made little effort to help us.) We noticed a few changes in the parks😕: some infrastructure was less well-maintained (wobbly wooden walkways, for example), French info pamphlets disappeared from entrance huts, and there were fewer rangers (Lee’s Ferry ranger station was closed). These changes are likely due to Trump’s restrictive policies toward national parks. On the economic side, gas prices rose by 30% since 2014, now around 0.85 € per liter, and with the current exchange rate, conditions are much less favorable for European tourists than in 2014. But this area is so beautiful—too bad Americans have such an idiot for a president!😠

The flights: Round-trip Paris CDG to Las Vegas LAS Roissy to Los Angeles with Air Tahiti Nui, then American Airlines for Los Angeles to Las Vegas. The A340s were impeccable, and service was great with Air Tahiti Nui (the tiare flower given at boarding), and no complaints about AA either.🙂

The hotels: All booked in advance, either through Hotels.com or directly on the hotel’s website (like the Planet Hollywood in Las Vegas). No surprises, everything met expectations.🙂 It’s a real plus for a family of four to have two beds in every room… Still rare in France.

The campgrounds: Except for one night at Lee’s Ferry, all were booked from France through NPS, Xanterra, and KOA sites. No surprises here either—everything met expectations and was well-organized (fire rings and tables at every site, for example).🙂

The vehicles:

First week: Four people in a GMC Yukon XL from HERTZ, at Las Vegas airport for 327 €, unlimited miles, second driver, and insurance. A typically American beast—355 hp, seven seats: it’s long, big, wide, and tall😮😎😎!! Impeccable condition, quiet, super comfortable with tons of safety features and gadgets (like weather updates tied to GPS!!), and it averaged about 12 L/100 km in 2WD (in 4WD, we nearly hit 19 L on the Stukumpah Road…). A total win thanks to the HERTZ GOLD card, following Jpg13’s advice (Jean-Pierre, you’re my idol!!😎). It let us skip the counter lines (we didn’t even stop there!), pick up the car, and leave the parking lot in under seven minutes… Even less time for the return! Second and third weeks: Nine people in two RVs. A 30-foot RV + a 25-foot RV from CRUISE AMERICA in Las Vegas for 5000 €, unlimited miles, kitchenware, and linens/towels/comforters. A love story in 2014 with this same agency, but unfortunately, this year was much more mixed: aging RVs, ineffective AC in the C30, a leak in the C25’s skylight, a leak in the C25’s toilet drain valve (imagine the dump every time we opened the drain plug…😠🙁), late delivery of both RVs (after 5 PM, though the contract said 4 PM max), abnormal wear on the front tires (we’d discover that later😠), trouble closing the door, etc.In short, a disappointment.😠 Note that other rental companies (El Monte and Road Bear) are probably gaining market share—we saw a lot of their vehicles on the road, and they offer much newer models (at least on the outside) for similar prices…🙂 But setting aside those issues, the vehicles still did their job: letting us sleep as close to nature as possible in the parks and enjoy beautiful sunrises/sunsets with family campfires and marshmallows flambéed with Jack Daniel’s Tennessee Honey😇!!😎 Also worth noting: Cruise America’s solid roadside assistance (we’ll talk more about that later), and how easy it was to drive these beasts—nearly 10 meters long! (Our walkie-talkies were super handy for communication between the two RVs.) And for the last day, a Ford Transit 12-seater from Hertz, at Las Vegas airport for 145 € for 24 hours. Perfect for a day with nine people and nine suitcases + nine bags!! Everything fit in the trunk, and it let us explore LV independently (including a trip to the outlet) for less than three taxis would’ve cost…😎

There you have it—the scene is set! If you’re interested in the rest, feel free to join in. The travel journal is done on the computer, and we’re up to day 11 for photos… We should be posting daily!!🙂

See you soon. Christelle & JF

IRELAND - INTRODUCTION

We planned our 15-day trip to Ireland several months in advance to create an itinerary that would let us see a multitude of tourist attractions across various regions of the Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland.

We researched the main attractions in each region and noted their GPS coordinates.

After that, we used Google Maps to create a packed but realistic daily route. We printed all the itineraries, and they proved extremely useful since some attractions weren’t listed on the GPS a friend lent us, and some roads aren’t clearly marked.

This way, we were able to stick to our daily schedule.

Three months before our departure, we rented a car directly from Autoescape’s website for 136.44 € over 14 days. The rental was with BUDGET, and the car we got was a ŠKODA Citigo.

This rate includes unlimited mileage, collision damage waiver (CDW), theft protection (TP) with a 1,500 € excess, and unlimited third-party liability coverage.

Some roads in Ireland are very narrow, so a compact car is much appreciated. Don’t forget that driving is on the left, and there are plenty of roundabouts.

Luckily, my partner finds driving this way easy, and our travels went smoothly.

It’s worth mentioning how courteous and patient Irish drivers are—it’s truly phenomenal.

Two weeks before our trip, we booked our accommodations at various places like B&Bs, hotels, and university campuses through Hotels.com. We’ll talk more about each of them later.

When we arrived at Dublin Airport, going through customs was quite tedious. There are two lines: one for EU citizens and another for other foreigners. The wait for non-EU travelers is significantly longer.

The car rental isn’t directly at the terminal. You have to take a shuttle to the rental center. Once there, a company representative finalizes the contract and hands over the keys to our rental car.

And off we went on our adventure!

It’s also important to note that some roads have tolls. For most of them, you pay directly at a toll booth, and the fees are usually under 2 €.

However, the M50 motorway around Dublin works differently—it’s a prepaid toll. You’re charged when you drive between Junction 6 (N3 Blanchardstown) and Junction 7 (N4 Lucan). A large purple sign warns you as you approach one of these junctions.

Cameras automatically record your license plate, and fees are applied based on your vehicle category. For a standard car, the fee is 3.10 €.

You have until 8:00 PM the next day to pay at an authorized retailer or online at https://www.eflow.ie/.

We prepaid these fees directly on the site mentioned above.

If you don’t pay within the required time, you’ll be charged substantial penalties.

For dining, most grocery stores and gas stations offer a great selection of hot and cold meals at very reasonable prices. That’s why we mostly bought our food at places like SuperValu, Lidl, Spar, and Centra.

We invite you to keep reading about our adventure in the next section.

Why bike (MTB) along the canal between the Two Seas: the lateral canal of the Garonne from Bordeaux to Toulouse, and the Midi Canal from Toulouse to the Mediterranean?

This canal was created to connect the Mediterranean to the Atlantic without going around Spain, and along its entire length, there’s an old towpath (used to pull barges). Since this path is closed to traffic (except for service vehicles from Voies Navigables de France), no cars drive on it—it’s dangerous, noisy, and polluting. The Canal between the Two Seas was built for transporting goods, so it passes through many towns you can explore without dealing with traffic. You can stock up on supplies or spend the night. You’ll discover the varied landscapes of the countryside, always in the serenity brought by the calm and slow flow of the canal’s water. Most of the time, you’ll be in the shade of trees planted to stabilize the banks with their roots. All you have to do is follow this blue—or rather green—ribbon without needing to consult a map. But the biggest advantage is that it’s flat! Of course, on the Canal du Midi, water flows from the watershed divide at Naurouze eastward to the Mediterranean and westward to Toulouse. On the lateral canal of the Garonne, water flows toward Bordeaux. But this slope is almost imperceptible, which is a huge plus when you want to travel by bike for several days with luggage.

When I say "bike," I really mean MTB because, while the towpath has been replaced in some places by a paved bike path, it mostly resembles a dirt trail—sometimes smooth, sometimes rocky, and often cluttered with roots from the magnificent trees lining it. Since the canal was classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site, improvements have been underway, but it won’t be tomorrow that you’ll be able to ride from Bordeaux to Sète on a road bike. And I’m afraid the first sections of the path will be worn out before the rest is finished. You might even run into construction work for this bike path. That’s what happened to me during the spring of 2007.

Sunday, 03/11 – Valence d'Agen 08:15 to Toulouse (Rangueil) 16:30 97 km in 8h15 (6h on the bike) I started on the recently paved path along the lateral canal of the Garonne. The first locks appeared, and as I approached Moissac, the path turned into a billiard table until Castelsarrasin. After the Cousteau port, I was back on the classic dirt towpath with its rocks, roots, and nutria holes. But not for long—soon, I hit ruts left by backhoes and bulldozers, which, fortunately, were resting for the Sunday. A pile of rubble taller than me blocked the entire width of the path. I didn’t want to turn back to find the previous bridge and ride on the other bank, which was just as impassable (dense grass). It wasn’t easy to carry a bike with full panniers, so I lifted it over several mounds. I kept going, sometimes on foot, unsure how far the construction extended. Another bulldozer—luckily, the ground was dry. The work went all the way to Montech, making the path impassable. I recommend taking the N113, which runs parallel (that’s what I did on the way back). In Montech, the famous water slope was at rest, waiting for tourists. For many kilometers, I was back on the traditional towpath. The closer I got to Toulouse, the better the surface became, and the more cyclists and pedestrians I saw—until the city center, where there was nonstop bike traffic, especially students heading to Rangueil.

Monday, 03/12 – Rangueil 09:10 to Revel 16:30 86 km in 7h20 (5h30 on the bike) As soon as you reach Toulouse, you make a 90° turn to follow the connection between the lateral canal and the Canal du Midi. Heading east, you pass the barge selling the famous Toulouse violet souvenirs. A real bike path has been built for 50 km to Port Lauragais. It’s a true joy for Toulousains and travelers. Restrooms have been installed or shared with highway rest areas, allowing you to refill water (of course, bikes are banned from ASF rest areas, but cleverly placed racks let you secure your bike and walk in). At Port Lauragais, it’s another rest area shared by highway users, cyclists, and boaters. You’ll find a cafeteria, restaurant, hotel, and a shop selling regional souvenirs. But the real pleasure is reaching the watershed divide at Naurouze, where water flows toward the Mediterranean on one side and the Atlantic on the other. There, I decided to leave the Canal du Midi, which continues toward Castelnaudary with a much rougher towpath, to follow the *Rigole* that feeds the canal with water from the Saint-Ferréol basin. For me, it was like returning to the source—a bit like a pilgrimage in honor of the brilliant Pierre-Paul Riquet, the designer of this magnificent work. I followed the service trail along the *Rigole*. It’s actually a variant of the GR 653, leading to Revel alongside this artificial waterway. It’s fed by water from the Montagne Noire, and I was worried about a steep climb. But that wasn’t the case—the *Rigole* winds for 40 km, flowing gently under the trees. It was better than a dream: a smooth dirt path with the crunch of pine needles under the wheels, where I only crossed paths with a few fishermen... And to soothe sore buns, the last kilometers were on packed earth—a paradise (ATVs, stay away!). More walkers and cyclists appeared there.

Tuesday, 03/13 After a restful night in Revel, I started the morning with a walk around Lake Saint-Ferréol. A very pleasant 10 km hike, but I don’t recommend it for mountain bikers unless you’re used to mountain terrain and have strong calves. Otherwise, you can take the road—there are at least two hotels near the lake. In the afternoon, I began the return trip to Tarn-et-Garonne via the same path, with the same pleasure.

Total: 378 km of suffering and bliss, for which I must thank the departmental and regional councils for their funding, Voies Navigables de France for maintenance, and the volunteers who mark the hiking trails. And don’t you think you’re exaggerating a bit with your 378 km of bliss and the paradise of the *Rigole*?

Okay, fine—it wasn’t always idyllic. Sometimes the path was downright *pierrique*... but I had great weather, and the landscapes were so beautiful (water, sun, vegetation). In the rain or mud, it would’ve been less fun. What does *pierrique* even mean?

*Pierrique* is worse than rocky. I know a Pierrick, and he’s tough. And why *Facteur4*?

It’s France’s goal to reduce greenhouse gas emissions by a factor of 4 by 2050. I’m doing my part by biking to work 3 out of 4 times. And your cassoulet?

Guilty as charged. I ate the best cassoulet of my life at the Hôtel du Midi in Revel. But it was very productive in methane. My stomach hurt so much I couldn’t sleep and ended up writing my postcards between 3 and 4 AM. So many great memories!

Hi there, I’m thinking about taking my first cruise. Has anyone ever booked with Destockage Croisière? I’ve been offered a Mediterranean cruise departing from Marseille for 1,200 € solo in an inside cabin. Does that sound like a fair price? The departure is in April 2026, so pretty soon. It’s with MSC, and the ship is the MSC World Europa 5*. Has anyone traveled on this ship before? If so, I’d love to hear about your experience. Also, if you have any tips to share, I’m all ears. And what about solo cruising in general? I get the feeling most people go as couples or families… will I still enjoy it without feeling too isolated? Are the dining tables shared, etc.? Thanks so much!

Hi everyone,

As promised, here’s my review of the cruise I took from the 5th to the 19th on the MSC Virtuosa.

As you know, I had initially booked a cruise with Mein Schiff departing from Dubai (from Dubai to Cape Town). It was a 22-day cruise. Due to the issues in the Persian Gulf, my cruise was canceled by Mein Schiff.

So, we started looking for a Plan B because we really wanted to go. Especially my wife, who had just had a minor procedure and needed some rest. Since she had already taken time off, she was determined to travel. However, we were looking for an affordable Plan B since we weren’t sure when Mein Schiff or the airline would reimburse us.

While browsing online, I found a 15-day cruise departing from Pointe-à-Pitre (including flights, transfers, the cruise, and drinks) for a price of 1,200 € in a Fantastica balcony cabin. We thought, *Why not?*

I should mention that I’m not usually a big fan of MSC. My last experience with them was post-Covid (I took two cruises, one in 2021 and another in 2022), and it was honestly a disaster. We didn’t want to repeat that, but after talking to Catherine, who told me she was very happy with a short Christmas cruise, we decided to give it a try.

I have to say, I was left speechless. Honestly, the cruise was absolutely perfect. There’s nothing to complain about (or just a few minor details). In terms of service and food, I felt like I was on a premium cruise line. I’d even say MSC has nothing to envy from some of those companies. While premium lines like Holland, Celebrity, and Royal are cutting back on services, I think MSC has made huge improvements. Seriously, I wasn’t expecting this at all. You’ll see what I mean as we chat more.

I won’t do a full review like I usually do because there weren’t many stops: 1. We boarded in Pointe-à-Pitre 2. We stopped in Saint-Martin 3. Then it was a direct crossing to the Azores...

This cruise was really about relaxing, even if it’s not the kind of trip we usually take.

First off, I’m not a big fan of "flight and cruise" packages. I asked if we could leave two days early, but they said it wasn’t possible. We had to take the flight, then the bus, and board the ship directly.

It’s not really my thing, but given the price we paid and since we really wanted to relax, we thought, *Why not?*

Here’s the itinerary:

Boarding in Pointe-à-Pitre Saint-Martin Five days at sea The Azores Four days at sea Hamburg One day at sea Le Havre



But as I mentioned, it wasn’t about the itinerary. It was really about taking a break and unwinding. Honestly, I came back thrilled.

Departure and boarding details to come

Hey everyone,

Yesterday, I checked the Thailand forum to see if there were any questions to answer, but not much was happening—it was pretty quiet. Then I scrolled through the Southeast Asia section and realized that, even though Burma (Myanmar) was included, there weren’t many posts about it... I’ve only been there once, back in 1987, so it’s hard to create a photo thread about multiple trips like I sometimes do for Thailand. Still, that one trip was packed with unusual adventures, so I thought I’d share a few stories from it.

Since I didn’t take any notes at the time, this is all from memory—it’s not an exhaustive travel journal and isn’t meant to help plan a future trip to Myanmar.

Don’t expect photos; there won’t be any. I have some, but they’re slides that would need scanning and editing one by one to fix the wear and tear of time—way too much work.

The Context.

Back then (reminder: 1987), I was volunteering in Paris at the counter of a travel agency on Rue des Écoles. The agency was part of a well-known organization based in Mulhouse that mostly offered scheduled flights to Asia, charter flights to the Mediterranean, and flights to Mali with their own plane. They also had a few rare "roots"-style trips to certain destinations—trips where you didn’t bring your tennis racket but were ready to soak in everything, even if it meant tough conditions.

I’d already been to Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines in Asia. The director knew this, so he asked me to accompany a group to Burma. At the time, tours to Burma were already being sold by competitors, but they all had to go through the state-run agency, Touristburma (buses and hotels for tourists, and they only showed you what they wanted you to see—kind of like traveling in North Korea today). The service was only payable in dollars at the official exchange rate (which was six times worse than the black market rate, mind you...), and since it went through the state agency, all the money ended up with the junta.

My job was to do everything *without* going through Touristburma, which was completely illegal there. Nothing would be booked in advance. Back then, the Burmese visa was only valid for 8 days/7 nights, and since clients were paying for the experience, the itinerary was planned ahead. I’d have to find transport and a guide on the black market as soon as I arrived.

The clients weren’t misled—they knew from the start that the trip would be off the books, that officially we’d be a small group of friends (not an agency), unlike the truth (Touristburma wasn’t mandatory for individual travelers), and that it would be challenging. They also knew their trip would cost 3-4 times less while giving them a much better experience of Burma. As for pretending to be a group of friends, there were only six of us, so it worked out.

To cover all expenses (accommodation, transport, excursions), the agency gave me a sufficient budget. They also gave me the *same* budget a second time, which was strictly for bribing officials who might cause trouble, for backshish (tips), and, if needed, to "help" me get out of prison.

Before I left, I was thoroughly briefed by another guy who’d led the previous trip (he’d dealt with all the initial challenges). He explained everything I needed to know, what to watch out for, and advised me on what to bring as "gifts" (samples of well-known perfumes, specific cigarette and whisky brands, etc.). For the perfume samples, I rallied my family, friends, and even stores. For the rest, I’d pick things up at the duty-free shops in Don Muang (Bangkok’s only airport at the time)—I had the budget for it.

I couldn’t wait to leave...

This forum was closed for a long time after COVID, then due to its sale by the previous owner. Since 2022, there have been notable changes for Russia. It became possible to travel to Russia as a tourist again after COVID restrictions ended in summer 2022. But before that, in March 2022, the EU and member countries cut air links with Russia, as well as train lines. They also cut Russian banks off from the Euro-American banking network—meaning cards and wire transfers.

EU-based insurers stopped offering policies for Russia. The Green Card for cars in Russia was also discontinued. Then the EU abolished the simplified visa regime agreement with Russia. All in all, a summary of the current practical aspects would be helpful.

I’ve been traveling to Russia regularly for about twenty years, and after the long COVID break, I resumed in autumn 2022.

Visa

The usual paper visa is much more expensive. On one hand, because the previous regime was scrapped, and on the other, because invitations for multi-entry visas are pricier. A single-entry 30-day visa costs 80 €. The multi-entry one is 240 €. To be sure you’ll get a 12-month multi-entry, it’s best to buy a telex invitation from the MID (Russian Ministry of Foreign Affairs), though there are few resellers. Prices vary depending on the seller.

E-visas are now available for Schengen passport holders. A big simplification for trips up to 16 days within a 60-day validity period. You can apply from 40 days up to 5 days before your desired date. Issued in up to four days. The site is https://evisa.kdmid.ru/ Cost: 50 €. Processed through an Emirati bank (United Arab Emirates).

Medical Insurance

Medical insurance with repatriation is required to get a visa. So you’ll need to buy a policy. This brings up payment methods. If you’re already familiar with Russia and have a Russian bank account, you can pay with your Russian card. Otherwise, you’ll have to buy from a site that accepts payments via a Belarusian bank—which means your bank must work with Belarus—or go through https://goingrus.com/fr/insurance

Transport from the EU

Minibus (marshrutka) from Kirkenes (Norway) to Murmansk. Schedules are coordinated with flights from Oslo, which arrive between 11:00 and 12:00. They wait on the right as you exit the airport. Some are chartered by groups and leave directly, but may have space—ask the driver. Otherwise, two companies run the route, with a stop in town at the corner of the Scandic, where they depart around 14:00 or 15:00. Payment in cash (NOK or RUB) to the driver. Main operator: https://borodinbus.com Bus from Tallinn (Estonia) to St. Petersburg. The border crossing is on the Narva River. The Russian road checkpoint has been closed since January 2024 for construction expected to last 2.5 years, so reopening is possible in summer 2026. In the meantime, it’s a two-bus journey: Tallinn-Narva, then walk across the bridge between the Estonian and Russian checkpoints at Ivangorod, followed by another bus. Several companies: Luxexpress, Ecolines, Baltic Shuttle, Anniston, СКСавто. Bus from Riga to Pskov or St. Petersburg (final destination). Departs from Riga’s bus station (behind the train station) daily between 18:00 and 19:00. Arrives in Pskov between 01:00 and 02:00 (Russian time). Company: СКСавто. There’s another bus around 21:00 with Ecolines, but it’s longer, with a long stop at the border. Bus from Gdańsk to Kaliningrad. Several buses per day. From the PKS bus station, behind Gdańsk’s central station, on the other side of the boulevard. From Kaliningrad, a 1-hour flight to St. Petersburg costs around 5000 RUB.

Basically, unless you’re planning to go to Murmansk and the Kola Peninsula—and possibly from Murmansk, flights to Arkhangelsk, then Nenetsia (Naryan-Mar), etc.—the three main crossing points with airports are Tallinn, Riga, and Gdańsk.

The Gdańsk-Kaliningrad bus is the fastest, and the ticket to St. Petersburg is very reasonable.

The Narva-Ivangorod route is the riskiest in terms of potential queues and crossing time. Holiday periods are especially risky. Last mid-June, I took a 14:00 bus from Tallinn. I’d bought a single-berth compartment on the Grand Express St. Petersburg-Moscow train, leaving at 23:00, with the idea of a good night’s rest before a Moscow-Magadan flight. A 7-hour queue at the border meant I arrived at St. Petersburg’s bus station at 23:00—missed the train, had to book a room, and spent time finding a reasonably priced flight to Moscow the next day for the same airport as my Magadan flight.

The Riga-Pskov route is a bit long but relaxed. If you get off in Pskov, you can still get decent sleep between 02:00 and 12:00. The Oktyabrskaya Hotel is cheap. I’ve also stopped in Izborsk. You ask the driver when boarding in Riga. The stop is on the federal highway—cross the road, and the main inn is 200m away. You can explore the medieval site the next morning before taking a bus to Pskov (30 km).

From Pskov, there are fast regional Lastochka trains—three or four per day—to St. Petersburg, taking 3.5 hours. Very comfortable and affordable. Also, two daily flights with Azimuth to Moscow-Vnukovo from 5000 RUB. A one-hour flight. It’s a section of Pskov’s military airfield, just a few kilometers from the city center.

Money

Cash. The EU issued a nonsensical decree: a ban on importing EU currency (euros, zloty, kroner, forints, etc.) except for personal travel use. This doesn’t make sense because as a citizen of a eurozone country, you *have* to have euros—cash or electronic (card). You can’t travel without them. The stipulation about a limit for personal use is absurd because personal use can mean anything from a hostel bed to a luxury hotel room, plus transport (flight tickets, train tickets in Russia), restaurants, etc. Estonian customs officers ask about this at the border when leaving. They ask in Estonian, then Russian, then English, depending. Since I cross with a French passport, I just say, "Sorry, I don’t understand," no matter what. Then they ask with a questioning look, "Euro?" and I shake my head. I haven’t been searched, but they do ask to glance in your bag. Russians with large suitcases often get checked. Cards and phone apps: if you have a Russian bank account.

Telephony and Internet

Roaming works but is pricey. Okay for calls and SMS, but very expensive for data. In that case, use an e-SIM with your home carrier if your phone supports it. Otherwise, look into prepaid rechargeable SIMs in Russia for data only—like SIM cards for mobile modems.

Russian SIM: Since this year (2025), as of March, it’s mandatory to be registered in the EBS (Unified Biometric System) to buy a SIM card. For a non-resident foreigner, this means first registering for a SNILS at an MFC (Multifunctional Center)—also called "My Documents." The SNILS is the pension center, which doesn’t require residency. After getting your SNILS number and certificate, you register on the public services portal, Gosuslugi. Finally, you register in the EBS system (voice sample—you read numbers—and a biometric facial photo).

Personal Car

The Green Card no longer covers Russia, and neither do EU-based insurers. But third-party liability insurance (OSAGO) is mandatory. Since the closure of the Russian checkpoint at Ivangorod for construction and the Finnish border closure, the routes are from Kirkenes in Norway, the Estonia-Pskov route, and—since the Belarus-Russia joint visa this year—the Belarus route, e.g., Poland-Terespol-Brest or Lithuania-Belarus. No OSAGO sales if you cross via Kirkenes. I didn’t see any at Shumilkino, the Russian checkpoint after Estonia toward Pskov. If you have a Russian card, you can buy online, of course. Otherwise, pay in cash on-site at certain company offices (specific forms aren’t available at all agencies) or online by paying to a third-party account outside Russia—with added fees.

This travel journal is the second part of the trip whose first part you can find here: 1st part...

Sunday, August 7: the day we discover a magical place... Edmaier's Secret...

We got up at 8:00 AM, had breakfast on the terrace of our tiny house, and then set off again toward yesterday’s trail. This time, we stopped after 4.5 miles on House Rock Valley Road at the Buckskin Gulch Trail parking lot. We weren’t interested in that trail today—the slot canyon is muddy anyway after the recent storms...

Instead, we explored a lesser-known area that became our playground. And what a playground it was, folks—an out-of-this-world spot, THE highlight of our trip!!! 😏

Just imagine being in the middle of these landscapes, and the cherry on top... no one else around!!!!! Well, we did meet a couple who were coming back—it was 9:30 AM 😮. Did they camp there? Did they turn back? 🙁

After paying the entry permit online, we set off with plenty of water (6L for the four of us) plus a gallon we hid along the way for the return trip. 😉 After a one-hour approach hike along a wash, we reached the sea of sand.



We had to cross it to reach our goal: a strip about 2 km long and 1 km wide that you can explore freely since there’s no marked trail... We entered a few GPS points into our Garmin Etrex, and off we went!!! 😎 It was... magical, enchanting, a true love-at-first-sight moment!



Brain Rock, waves, fine and brittle rock, colors—it goes up, it goes down.







Just thinking about it gives me chills... I remember sitting still for two minutes, taking in these wonders with such emotion that I teared up...

An 80-Day Tour of Southern Africa

Back in South Africa

January 12, 2013, 5:30 AM, Flight BA043 London-Cape Town

Directly below, Windhoek glittered like a tangle of fairy lights still lit and tossed into a box.

The horizon, edged in purple, was setting up a backup fireworks display, and suddenly, like a cherry on the platter and with unbearable intensity, in less than two minutes the entire sun revealed a gray dam and then a vast, untouched massif.

A few more minutes and the glare to the east of the plane was total. In Africa, the sun is swift.

We still had a France to cross before landing, but it felt as if we were already there. To the west, the raking light revealed what looked like acne and long, swollen scars in a desert region that might be the Swartkloofberg. Further still, straight as far as the eye could see, the two parallel tracks of a dirt road.

At 11,500 meters altitude and 940 km/h, we had a sense of stillness until the Orange River appeared, an incongruous serpent, gray edged with green.

The first South African settlements were dotted with trees providing shade, then rivers highlighted by continuous lines of vegetation.

Water and shade that make life possible.

We’ll return here by the backroads.

Half an hour from Cape Town, the plane tilted toward the sea, crossing plantations (likely citrus) and then an explosion of cultivated greenery in circles on either side of an unruly river. Finally, the coastline was no longer just sand and water—a frothy hem, a suture?

A peninsula came into view, forming two magnificent bays, and... a flight attendant firmly instructed me to return to my seat: we’d arrived!

The Colors of Cape Town

The city was dressed up as I like them—deserted, fluid, free of its vendors.

In the parking lot of the endless beach next to the commercial port north of the city, about two hundred people were unloading their goods in front of their pickups or combis, none of which were from this century: mixed-race, ageless Black people, and white folks who looked like they’d stepped out of another era.

After a few minutes, intrigued, I played a game: first looking at the merchandise, then imagining who was selling it, and finally looking at who was actually manning the stall. Tall Black vendors were selling what they often sell in Europe—leather, sunglasses, watches; mixed-race folks offered discount bundles, and the tanned older white people seemed to have emptied their attics.

We left with an antique tin kettle for morning tea over an open fire, a pack of five exercise books (that’s 600 pages to fill), Bill Bryson’s earliest stories in English, some snoek rillettes (a local fish), and—never seen before—tuna biltong and snoek biltong.

In so-called advanced countries, Sunday is for sports: white cyclists dressed like pros sweating diligently, Black street vendors running in loops at red lights to sell trash bags that day; white golfers losing their balls, which a scantily clad Black man retrieves from the water; under the sails of kite surf boards, it’s all blondes, and in the foam, joyful splashes from a bunch of Black kids.

Searching for an unusual spot for lunch, we drove through the fishing port looking for a dive and, at the end of a dead-end road with no warning, we arrived at the Shimmy Beach Club—quite the program.

The place, open for just three weeks, aims to be ultra-trendy. You could be in San Francisco, Lisbon’s docks, or St. Barth. This time, the "visible" staff was diverse, but the clientele was exclusively white, except for one mixed-race couple.

For this Sunday lunch, the women had pulled out all the stops, and local starlets—who’d make ours look tame—were turning the terrace into a frenzy.

At Cape Town’s port, the girls have *port*. The trend seems to be crochet dresses over swimsuits.

For two hours, a team of employees watered and raked the sand, starting over when they finished. A child in a floaty pink dress and a gold headband, but a future adventurer, stepped onto the freshly raked artificial beach sand for the first time.

A lanky mixed-race man dragged a hose across the ground, followed by a white woman—enchanted?—who then started watering the sand herself, carelessly splashing the glass terrace her colleague had just swept. I suspect a tacit work arrangement to keep everyone employed.

A galleon packed with tourists (are there any in the hold? Does it take tourists to Robben Island?) left the port. A helicopter took off in its wake. Trawlers returned, cutting through a ballet of catamarans, their waterlines well above the water: a bad catch.

If there’s one country where you can’t pretend to ignore skin color, it’s this one. The question is in everyone’s mind, and here more than anywhere else, it’s a decisive economic and political factor.

Columbine of Brittany

200 km north of Cape Town and 9,000 km south of the Breton coast, but on the same cold ocean, we camped on the shore of the Columbine Cape Nature Reserve, sheltered by a rocky chaos that, at first light tomorrow, would transport us to Perros-Guirec.

Our first encounter with wild animals wouldn’t end well for them: it was crayfish season, and they were the size of lobsters at Lorient’s fish market. Bought for R60 (5.5 €) a pair from kids in Pater Noster, they’d end up between two rocks, over a fire. But first, we had to pair the Chenin blanc with some snoek biltong.

With no wood, I lit a fire at dawn with dried seaweed and kelp, as if petrified; it gave off a smell of court-bouillon and... tires. Two hundred fathoms away, on an outpost, an army of cormorants stood at attention, unmoved among the frolicking seals.

At the reserve’s exit, the guard spoke French; Patrick Mwanba had arrived from Congo three years earlier to study, but the cost of living here forced him to drop out. He’d like to return home because life is cheaper there, but the war made him hesitate.

Ding ding dong! Vroom! Arf arf, Woof! Buzz! (A night from hell!)

I’d long planned to visit Calvinia, the center of a region known for extensive sheep farming. An excellent provincial museum, run by an enthusiastic curator, kept us too late to start the drive north.

So we camped in a tiny, charming campsite set up in the garden of a house. A few trees, a patch of resilient grass, and a view of a pretty lit-up steeple—what else?

Well, it turned out to be a sound-and-light show, with the pretty steeple chiming the hours and half-hours. Then suddenly, we were in the VIP stands of the Karoo-Kalahari Truck Race: roaring trucks paraded under our canvas windows, and we realized we were on the main road through town. To top it off, we enjoyed an uninterrupted canine cacophony, from the *arf arf* of little dogs to the *woof* of a mastiff. Oh, and some mosquitoes—the first ones—insisted on keeping us company in the tent, and we hadn’t yet bought the arsenal to neutralize them.

I walked through Calvinia at night; the house gardens weren’t fenced, nor did they have the «Armed Response» signs so common in the country.

The Kalahari Trails

(No, no, I haven’t converted to hiking.)

North of Calvinia, in the south of the Northern Cape, small towns follow one another up to Upington, about a hundred kilometers apart—welcome havens. Between them, with no trees in sight, we stopped in the shade of a motionless cloud: the temperature exceeded 40°C in mid-January.

We were almost out of the High Karoo and into a region of pans drying up, until the first red dunes appeared, precursors of the Kalahari. In the sparse veld vegetation, gatherings of quiver trees in the kopjes, and a caravan of camels without a handler or packs, marching in perfect formation across a pan (no, I hadn’t overdone the Windhoek at the last stop, and no, I wasn’t dehydrated enough to hallucinate).

The historic part of these towns, European in style, was built on the same plans as those in the American Midwest or the Australian Outback: a grid of streets wide enough to turn a wagon pulled by eight pairs of oxen. The architecture was Dutch-inspired, tropicalized with awnings.

Then came more recent housing, functional in style, where the wealthier mixed-race people—who make up the majority of this state—lived, and further on, the township, an assemblage of corrugated iron and plastic, like everywhere else.

Orange, Right Bank

North of Augrabies Falls National Park, on the other side of the Orange River, stretches a rugged and wild territory the size of fifty Groix islands, crisscrossed by a few tracks—the Riemvasmaak.

The inhabitants were driven out half a century ago for a military base, and as soon as President Mandela was elected, he made it a symbol by allowing the exiled populations to return. Several ethnic groups live here on almost nothing, in government-built shacks.

A community camp is set up in a small cirque at the end of a canyon that, while not in the history books, offers a good descent. By mid-afternoon, the air was at 44°C, but luckily there was a spring... except it was a hot spring, with water at 38°C. And they haven’t invented a reversible spring yet. Once the birds and baboons had settled in, in absolute silence and far from any light pollution, we enjoyed the stars like nowhere else (well, that’s what they claim in the region).

The Orange didn’t choose the easy path: arriving from Lesotho, it was almost at the ocean. The terrain to the south and north of this massif seemed easier to cross. Was it to avoid the curse of the Okavango, whose waters disappear into the sands without ever seeing the sea, that it chose this rocky route, thinking that at least the granite wouldn’t steal its water?

I Love You, I Eat You

In the dry bed of the Auob, it lay panting, head raised, alert, between its paws but head-to-tail, a tawny springbok, motionless.

A few minutes earlier, their story had been written in a lightning-fast chase, captured in photos by the driver of the car that alerted us.

It would be a long time before it started eating at the groin without breaking its surveillance.

Earlier, there was a lion lounging in the shade and hundreds of antelopes: springboks and gemsboks (oryx) in herds, hartebeests and steenboks alone. Strange pairs, apart several times, formed by a springbok and a gemsbok.

A few solitary jackals moved slightly sideways, looking furtive. Ostriches, alone, looking a bit dazed.

It was a lucky morning in the Kgalagadi (KTP).

In and Out

Kgalagadi, Nossob Camp.

We were at the very end of the almost-empty camp, ten meters from the fence, whose structure wouldn’t resist an elephant (though there aren’t any here), but it was electrified.

At dusk, on the other side, ten meters away, three lions passed in a row, as if on parade, seemingly focused on their goal and indifferent to the camp, though they glanced at it.

A jackal had gotten into the camp and was trying to get out without success while scavenging. I offered it two pieces of snoek biltong (Don’t feed the animals!) from three meters away—it smelled strong and had bones (bones in biltong!). When it passed by again, it sniffed but didn’t dare approach. Curled up in the chair, motionless, by the faint moonlight, I finally saw it come closer, grab the nearest piece, and move ten meters away to enjoy it (how many jackals know the finer points of sea biltong?). A little reassured, it came back for the second piece.

Another Morning

By morning, the jackal was gone, but our luck hadn’t left us. Two cheetahs again, who found me in the way and slowly moved toward a calmer shadow. Enough birds of prey to form a squadron, but they’re solitary hunters. Two ostriches busy with their dozen unruly chicks. And while we’re at it, a group of four Kalahari lions, sprawled under a thorny bush. Lots of oryx crossing the dunes and herds of red hartebeest. Kori bustards and secretary birds.

It was the first time the Kgalagadi had spoiled us so much.

Hi there,

Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.

It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected. Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel. I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability. So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.

I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:

Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras

Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya

Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat

Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott

Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou

To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog: From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations

Happy reading, and safe travels!

Travel bookings to the United States are seeing a significant drop in France for summer 2025, with over a 30% decrease in the spring and around -11% for summer departures.

Several reasons explain this disengagement:

an unfavorable exchange rate at the start of the year, very high prices on the ground (accommodation, dining), negative experiences with immigration, as well as a political and social context perceived as off-putting (civil rights, safety, tense social climate).

Tourism professionals also note difficulties for Florida and some Southern states, while destinations like New York and Orlando are faring better.

The recent drop in the dollar and airfares could, however, encourage last-minute departures, and tourism stakeholders are betting on a gradual recovery starting this autumn, with major events planned for 2026 like the World Cup or the 250th anniversary of the United States.

Read the article

Hello everyone! July 5, 2025: Argentina Update As I do every month, here’s an overview of the situation in Argentina—useful if you’re planning to visit in the coming weeks! Vibe, economy, general situation, tips for tourists, and more... Latest news for anyone thinking of visiting Argentina this year: - Mixed outlook - Current economic and social situation in Argentina - Our friend Cristina - What’s new for tourists?

What’s new? The parallel exchange rate and the official BNA rate are almost the same—just 2% higher for the parallel rate, which won’t really change your trip! Pay as much as possible in cash—discounts are still common at bars, restaurants, and even hotels. Even if it’s not advertised, always ask! You can still withdraw cash via Western Union, as before. Paying with a Visa or other card is still possible, and the CCL rate is even above the parallel rate today, meaning +3% compared to the official rate. However, you won’t get discounts when paying by card.

As always, **do not** withdraw money from ATMs—the fees in Argentina are still outrageous. Also, don’t forget that winter break in Argentina starts today, Friday, July 4, in 10 provinces for two weeks, until Sunday, July 20. On Friday, July 11, it begins in 9 more provinces until Sunday, July 27, and finally, in the last 4 provinces (including Buenos Aires and the city of Buenos Aires—the most populated), it runs from Friday, July 18, until Sunday, August 3. In short: 3 zones, each with two weeks off, stretching over 4 weeks total.

In previous years, I’d have warned you: “Be careful if you’re traveling, as buses, flights, and often accommodations are at high occupancy.” But this year, poorer and middle-class Argentines aren’t traveling because “No hay plata,” and those who can afford it are heading to Brazil, Chile, or even Miami for cheaper parties and shopping—Brazil can be twice as affordable! So, in Argentina, the top destinations for these staggered winter breaks are Bariloche (first place), followed by Ushuaia, San Martín de los Andes, and Villa La Angostura. Mendoza comes in fifth, then El Calafate, and finally Salta and Córdoba. As you can see, wealthy Argentines travel in winter to see snow—it’s chic to be cold and go skiing! Bariloche is the most expensive, while Córdoba is the cheapest. Same services, for example, a flight plus 7 days plus a hotel in the same category: Bariloche is 2.5 to 3 times pricier than Córdoba or even the sierras of Córdoba. Yet, there’s plenty of availability. Most people don’t have the money (and you might say Patagonian winter destinations aren’t exactly middle-class friendly either), but with fewer Brazilians or Chileans taking advantage of “cheap” Argentina, space is freed up. Brazilians alone used to make up 50% of Argentina’s international tourism—so there are suddenly fewer people on flights and in hotels! For these destinations, hoteliers are hoping for (at best) a 70% occupancy rate, though 50% would already make them happy. Why? 1- Lack of foreign tourists, 2- The middle class preferring to visit the old aunt in Posadas (to show family loyalty and spend as little as possible),

3- The wealthy opting for Bariloche, Punta Cana, Búzios, or Miami, which drastically lowers domestic occupancy rates and increases the outflow of USD abroad. +66% of Argentine tourists traveled abroad in the first five months of 2025. Six million Argentines vacationed abroad between January 1 and May 1, 2025.

To read the full article, check it out here: https://www.petitherge.com/2025/07/05-juillet-2025-situation-de-l-argentine.html

Hi,

I received an email from the airline saying my return flight was canceled and rescheduled to another flight.

Nothing about the connection in France...

I checked my passenger file, everything is the same as when I first booked.

I asked for an explanation by email.

They replied that my original flight was canceled and that I should sort it out with Air France since I bought the ticket through their site.

I called Air France. Finally got through to someone. The agent checked my file and told me there were no changes and therefore couldn’t reschedule my flight.

I checked my file again: the flight is the same as on the day I bought it.

They suggested I change it by paying!!!

I forwarded Air Mauritius’s emails to Air France. Waiting to see what happens next...

Have you ever had this kind of problem? What’s going on with Air Mauritius? Have they become a third-rate airline that’s absolutely not recommendable?

Thanks for your thoughts and any attempts at explaining this...

(The Air Mauritius flight is no longer for sale on Google Flights. The replacement flight isn’t either... Yet it still appears on the Air Mauritius site as the replacement flight.)

Hi there,

Starting November 27th, Air France will offer a new direct route between Paris-Charles de Gaulle and Phuket, in the south of the Asian country. There will be 3 flights per week on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays from Paris, with returns on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Sundays from Phuket. The flights will be operated using a Boeing 777-300ER equipped with 472 seats

Hi everyone,

You’re probably aware that Premium Economy classes are becoming more and more common among regular airlines. I wanted to get your thoughts—do you think the value for money is good? Personally, I’ve tried British Airways and Emirates Premium Economy, and I absolutely loved them! I do wish we had access to Fast Track and/or the lounge, but otherwise, I really think it’s an excellent alternative. Photos of Emirates PE

Hi there

I completely forgot the transit procedure at Doha Airport and I’m a bit worried because I only have 1h30 to change planes, since my first flight was rescheduled. My flights: Barcelona/Doha: arrival at 6:15 AM Doha/Bangkok: departure at 7:50 AM

We only have carry-on luggage. Will they be checked again? Do we have to go through security again? Are the connections smooth and well signposted? Finally, is it common in this situation to ask a flight attendant for help?

Thanks! 🙂

Hi, I’d like to know if gas stations with LPG are well distributed in Argentina, Brazil, and Chile? Thanks.

April 5 - Day 1

After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...

Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses? Uzbekistan!!!

KARIBUUU

Over 5 years later, I’m finally getting around to writing the travel journal for our first trip to East Africa: Tanzania. *Polé Polé*, as they say! 😎

A trip I’d started planning just 6 years ago, in February 2019, for my post-internship exam vacation. After returning to South Africa in July 2019 with my family, this trip, planned for September 2019, would be all about discovery and a few firsts: first trip with friends, first trek, first time in East Africa. I really wanted to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent, try to still see some of its "eternal" ice, and Alison wanted to do as much safari as possible. Unlike with the Zulus, Himbas, or San, visiting a Maasai village wasn’t on the agenda. Thanks to the Kessy Brothers agency, who were super responsive, Sandy from VF, and other members who helped prepare our trip, we settled on the following itinerary:

Day -1 (8/30): Departure from Pointe-à-Pitre Day 0 (8/31): Departure from Paris Day 1 (9/01): Arrival at Kilimanjaro Airport / Ameg Lodge (Moshi) DAY 2 (9/02): Machame gate / Machame camp DAY 3 (9/03): Shira / Shira camp DAY 4 (9/04): Baranco / Baranco camp DAY 5 (9/05): Barafu / Barafu camp DAY 6 (9/06): Barafu + Summit at midnight / Mweka camp DAY 7 (9/07): Mweka gate / Sal Salnero Hotel (Moshi) DAY 8 (9/08): Arusha National Park / Kanga camp DAY 9 (9/09): Tarangire National Park / Kanga camp DAY 10 (9/10): Tarangire National Park / Twiga Lodge DAY 11 (9/11): Lake Manyara / Twiga Lodge DAY 12 (9/12): Ngorongoro Crater / Simba campsite DAY 13 (9/13): Serengeti National Park / Seronera campsite DAY 14 (9/14): Serengeti National Park - Uoga Kuria Camp DAY 15 (9/15): Serengeti National Park / Waso campsite DAY 16 (9/16): Lake Natron / Maasai Giraffe Ecolodge DAY 17 (9/17): Kilimanjaro Airport Day 18 (9/18): Zanzibar Day 19 (9/19): Zanzibar Day 20 (9/20): Zanzibar Day 21 (9/21): Zanzibar

As I mentioned in my first travel journal about our South Africa trip, I’ve had a special connection to Tanzania for a long time. Growing up in the Indian Ocean without ever visiting Africa, those wildlife documentaries on TV when I skipped my pharmacy classes... I imagined and dreamed about this land and country so much.

The original plan was to go just the two of us with Alison, but somehow—though I don’t quite remember how—we ended up organizing the trip with our friends Mélissa and Doriane, who joined us in Arusha after our Kilimanjaro trek for the last two weeks and their very first safari. I think it was Melissa who had the idea to crash our trip, and she was right to do so! 😉 Flights: Pointe-à-Pitre-Grand Case and Grand Case-Paris with Air Caraïbes. Flights: Paris-JRO and ZNZ-Paris with Kenya Airways (layover in Nairobi). Flight: JRO-ZNZ with Air Tanzania.



Safe travels! !

Hi, I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).

Thanks for your help.

With the $CAD/EUR exchange rate already worse than ever (thanks, Mr. Trump and his annexation threats), imagine my surprise when I found out that the EuroBank ATM (same for Alpha Bank) charged a 9% commission on the transaction. That pushed the exchange rate from the official 1.60$ to 1.77$ per euro. It’s better to buy euros in Canada or at a currency exchange office, or just pay by credit card, which I did (at a rate between 1.61$ and 1.63$).

hi, I just wanted to know the exchange rate for euros in Tunisia, thanks

hi there same old question when you arrive in MOROCCO where’s the best place to exchange euros for Moroccan dirhams at the best rate? thanks.

Hi, Does anyone know where to exchange money on a Sunday at the best rate in Arica, please? We arrived last night and don’t have any pesos! Thanks in advance. Brigitte

hi, Do you have one or—even better—several addresses for exchanging euros to ariary? Aside from Jmy Exchange, that is. What’s the current exchange rate we can expect? Thanks!

Everything You Need to Know About Argentina’s Currency Exchange Maze (2026 Edition) Hi fellow travelers,

Packing your bags for Buenos Aires? Watch out—here, money is a science almost as complex as the dance steps in a tango!

As of March 2026, the situation has shifted dramatically: the "Blue" (parallel) rate is now neck-and-neck with the official rate. To save you from losing your hard-earned euros in bureaucratic mazes or "disastrous" exchange rates, I’ve laced up my reporter boots and hit the famous Calle Florida for you.

In my latest video (and the accompanying article), I take you behind the scenes of currency exchange:

Arbolitos and Cuevas: Who are they, and can you still trust them? The Rate Showdown: Why Banco Nación is currently the worst place for your savings. Western Union: Why it’s often your best ally right now. Cash or Card? The little secret to getting an instant 10–15% discount at restaurants or hotels. The Bill Trap: Why your 500 € notes or stained dollars might stay in your wallet.

Argentina changes fast—*very* fast (by the end of March, today’s advice might already be old news!). So don’t leave without checking the market’s pulse.

Check out all my tips in the video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKmKFux4fpQ

And remember: in Argentina, don’t exchange money on weekends—unless you want your cash to melt like snow in the sun!

Safe travels, and see you on the road! Hergé

Hi, I’m leaving soon for Punta Cana—what kind of money should we bring: Canadian dollars, US dollars, or are we forced to exchange once we arrive? Thanks

Hi there! I have to leave Ivato/Antananarivo on December 16th. I have a lot of ariary that I’d like to exchange for euros since I might not be coming back to Madagascar (after this 21st trip). I think the exchange office at Ivato also buys ariary back. If any of you have seen the rate for this buyback in advance, thanks a million!

Hi, We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM. I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs. Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?