Hi everyone, I’ve got a big project in northern Vietnam—discovering the most beautiful rice terraces before the harvest... I’m planning to leave around September 15th until October 15th, then spend 15 days exploring the two bays, Lan Ha and Ha Long. In total, 45 days without a visa... I’m traveling solo and very independent. But is it possible to do this kind of trip using local trains and buses? My plan is to leave Hanoi for Nghia Lo (2 days), then Mu Cang Chai (4 days), Sapa (4 days), Bac Ha (2 days), Ha Giang... Hoang Su Phi, then do the Meo Vac loop, Dong Van, etc., to see those stunning karst peaks before heading back to Hanoi. In my research, I haven’t found any buses or vans going from Hanoi to Nghia Lo, even though it’s super popular for its rice terrace landscapes.... I don’t want a daily driver, but I’m thinking I could use moto-taxis to get around locally once I’m there.... What do you think? These rice terraces are a dream for me, along with the markets and all the different ethnic groups, not to mention those spectacular rocky peaks... Is the itinerary too ambitious? I’ve got time on my side. Do you have any solutions? I’ve browsed the forum a lot, but the discussions are 5 or 6 years old, and I think things have changed since then. Thanks for your help planning this adventure!

Hello everyone! I REALLY need some advice because I’m feeling lost with my choices for my next solo trip—I’d like to book within the month . Just so you know, my trip will be in September 2025 for about 17 days. My top pick is Vietnam; I’ve never been to Asia. I know the rainy season will be in full swing in September, but several reviews seemed to say it’s not necessarily a dealbreaker, even though it might affect a few hours each day. PS: I was considering Cambodia, but apparently, the situation isn’t safe for a woman or a tourist right now. I’ve also heard a lot about New Zealand, but I don’t know anyone who’s been there—especially solo. The nature looks amazing, but does 100% nature get boring quickly when you’re alone? Are there meet-up spots or restaurants/cafés in all the must-see places? To give you some background, I’ve traveled solo before: Seville, Sweden (Stockholm and Lapland), and I spent 6 months exploring Marseille on my own. I love discovering places and cultures by myself. Fun fact: my favorite trip was South Africa—for the change of scenery, the people I met, the landscapes, and the nature—but I wasn’t solo there. Do you have any firsthand experience with these two destinations for a solo trip as a woman? Or do you have other ideas that fit a similar budget and are interesting for 15–17 days, with a real sense of adventure? And, of course, safe and not too stressful for a woman! (I’d also love to hear about any custom travel agencies you’ve had good experiences with—I really want to plan this trip as best as I can, but all the agencies I’ve found have mixed reviews.) Thank you so much for your help!! I’ll keep you posted on my choice and I’m happy to answer any questions you might have!

Hi there, We’re spending a month in northern Vietnam this coming November and we’d love to do some day hikes around the village of Mu Cang Chai to see the famous spiral terraced rice fields. We’ll most likely be staying in Mu Cang Chai itself and we don’t have a car. It’s really tough to find a route online. Any tips would be great. Thanks in advance.

Hi there, we’ll be in Mai Chau in June and we’re thinking of heading to Sapa, but first spending a few days in Bac Ha to do some hiking and explore the area. Is this a good idea for those who’ve been there? How do you get there? Thanks for your feedback. Looking forward to hearing from you. Cédric.

I’m heading to Vietnam for the 3rd time for a 6-week stay. Who’s planning a trip to the central region in 2027? And who’d like to share a few days with me? The idea is a circuit of several days with a guide and driver around BUON MA THUOT, PLEIKU, and KONTUM—or just a driver, or even a circuit with two easy riders, though they’re hard to find in this area. And if we hit it off (check my profile), why not spend even more time together?

What I’m looking for: - Parks, nature reserves, or wildlife sanctuaries - BUON MA THUOT and surroundings: pagodas and traditional villages—Konklor village and the suspension bridge - PLEIKU: Bahnar villages and the ethnographic museum - KON TUM: cathedral, market, and traditional villages

Interested in: - Local markets, handicrafts (gongs, weaving, and basketry) - Ceremonies or performances with gongs - Pagodas - Museums - Street food

I’m not planning to travel long distances for waterfalls (unless they’re exceptional), or visits to farms . However, I’m open to any other suggestions for this trip to the Central Highlands, which are less touristy.

With prices rising, I’ve just bought my Paris/Danang and Ho Chi Minh/Paris flight ticket.

Hi everyone,

In November, we’re planning to do the Ha Giang loop and the RC4 by motorbike without a guide. 😎 We’re looking for a decent place to stay/rent in Ha Giang.

If anyone has any info, we’d be really interested.

Thanks in advance! 😉 Ladava

Hi there, After arriving in Ho Chi Minh City at the beginning of March 26, where I think I’ll stay for maybe two days (or more?), we’d like to spend a few days in the Mekong Delta. Is it better to stay in one place (Vinh Long, Cai Be, My Tho, An Binh, etc.) and take boat trips every day, or split our time between two or three spots, which means changing accommodation and moving our luggage around? Of course, agencies offer 3- or 5-day tours from Ho Chi Minh City, but are they really worth it, both financially and in terms of the visits themselves? What’s your experience with this? How did you do it, and if you had to do it again? Any tips? Thanks in advance for your help. Dominique

Hi everyone, We have a chance to stop in Hanoi on our way from Japan back to France. We arrive on Tuesday, May 12th around 2 PM and leave for France on Saturday, May 16th around 10 PM. I’d like to do a 2-day cruise in Halong Bay or Lan Ha Bay, then either 2 days in Ninh Binh or 1 day. - 12/05: Hanoi - 13/05: cruise - 14/05: end of cruise and head to Tam Coc - 15/05: sightseeing - 16/05: early departure for Hanoi, day in Hanoi, then flight to France at 10 PM We don’t want to be overwhelmed by crowds of tourists and prefer to be on our own.

Do you have any tips for us—agencies, transport, sights, accommodation, or visits? Thanks so much for your feedback! Best regards, Isabelle

DANANG A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.

Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?

Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?

What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.

The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.

HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.

WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.

For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.

Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.

Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).

WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.

For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).

At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.

WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.

THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.

MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.

CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.

To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!

Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.

Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.

Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).

When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.

Hey everyone, so happy the site is back!

After traveling solo across Iran and the Stan countries from one end to the other,

this time I’m heading to Southeast Asia with my wife and our 3-year-old.

I went to the Philippines almost 10 years ago and actually met some forum members there. It was love at first sight.

I’ve booked tickets from January 10 to March 31 for Bangkok (amazing price from Milan). I was thinking of spending: 3 weeks in Thailand 3 weeks in Vietnam 1 month in the Philippines.

Don’t worry, I won’t spam the forum with a thousand messages asking how to get from point A to point B :)))

I’m reaching out to the experts or regulars here for suggestions and ideas!

For Thailand, Obviously, some beautiful beaches wouldn’t hurt for a bit of relaxation. I was thinking of Koh Phayam or Koh Kood (or Koh Chang). If anyone knows a nice spot, even if it’s not on an island, I’m all ears. It’s tricky to ask this for Thailand, but I’m looking for a bit of tranquility (so I’ll probably avoid Phuket, Koh Samui, etc.). (Though I know sometimes you just need to get off the beaten path to find some peace, but I’m not sure if that’s the case in Thailand.)

Vietnam—I have no idea!! A friend mentioned Danang, which could be a good base to explore the countryside/inland areas.

And the Philippines—I had a huge crush on the country (Bantayan, Dumaguete, Sipalay, Siquijor) and really want to go back, maybe to new places/islands.

I have one constraint: We’ll stay in the same place each time. With a kid, it’s tough to move every 2 days (unlike when I’m solo), and I hope this will let us connect with locals by staying put for 3 weeks at a time. (Plus, my budget is pretty tight, so the idea is to negotiate a good price for 3 weeks in the same accommodation.) (My rough budget is 1000 € per month for the three of us: 450 € for lodging, 450 € for food, and 100 € for a scooter. This doesn’t include boat, bus, etc. transfers.)

If you have any ideas, tips, or experiences to share, I’m all ears! I’m totally open to shortening or extending our stays in each country, even if it means skipping one of the three.

Hi everyone,

I couldn’t find any recent posts on this topic, so I thought I’d create a new one. We’ve just started planning our family trip to Vietnam this coming August. We’d like to travel from North to South, starting in Hanoi and ending in Ho Chi Minh.

Usually, we rent a car when we arrive and manage on our own. But I get the feeling that in Vietnam, it’s more complicated... It seems like the only option we have is to rent a car with a driver? Is that really the case?

I’m thinking of starting with a cruise in Halong Bay since we arrive on my partner’s birthday, and I wanted a beautiful setting to celebrate it. So, is the option of having a driver wait for 2 days while we’re on the cruise really feasible?

The rest of the itinerary isn’t planned at all yet. I’d love to hear your tips. We’re traveling from August 8th (morning) to the 26th (afternoon).

Thanks for your advice.

What we commonly call "Halong Bay" is actually made up of three bays. From south to north:

- The small Lan Ha Bay, south and east of Cat Ba Island, inaccessible to large cruise junks because the channels aren’t deep enough for big boats—so it’s more intimate and, above all, cleaner;

- Halong Bay itself, north of Cat Ba, also very beautiful but crowded with tourists since it can accommodate large boats (up to 35 cabins), making it very dirty due to many Asian tourists—except for the Japanese—who throw everything into the water: cigarette butts, bags, empty cans, etc.; - The large Bai Tu Long Bay, north of Halong Bay, characterized by larger islands with beautiful beaches and fewer tourists since it ideally takes 3 days to explore all three bays. PRIORITIZE LAN HA BAY FOR 2 DAYS AND BAI TU LONG BAY FOR THREE. Some travelers want to visit the bay in just one day. Strongly discouraged ! In fact, you need to allow 7 to 8 hours for the round trip between Hanoi and the bay; adding boarding time, you’ll only spend a few hours on a boat and barely scratch the surface of the bay. Plus, one of the most magical moments of the cruise is waking up in the morning surrounded by limestone karsts. Two days/1 night on a junk is the minimum to enjoy the enchanting landscapes. AVOID cheap junks! There’s no secret: cheap = limited comfort, laughable food, and service that’s barely acceptable. Never forget this is a unique site in the world, so it’s worth visiting under the best conditions. Don’t confuse Halong Bay with the "terrestrial Halong Bay" in Ninh Binh (Tam Coc). The first is 110 km north of Hanoi, the second 100 km south, right in the Red River Delta. Both are magnificent, and it’s now possible to take a direct bus from one to the other. To visit the bays, you have two options: - Travel to Cat Ba Island or Halong City on your own and book a junk on-site. We don’t recommend this, as there are many issues—especially overcharging for foreign tourists in ground transport and shortened cruises, not to mention you don’t speak Vietnamese. You’ll end up paying at least the same price as through a Hanoi agency, likely more, since you’re at high risk of being ripped off. - Book an organized tour in Hanoi with a good agency. Given the complexity of traveling from Hanoi to Halong and renting a junk on-site, this is by far the easiest option, with countless possibilities—from private junks (more expensive but with huge advantages) to luxury, superior, and standard group junks. Benefits: with a good agency, you’ll have a hassle-free cruise with no scams, and everything is included in the price: round-trip transfers from your hotel to the boat, guide, junk, all meals, site entries, kayaking, etc.

When it comes to choosing a junk, there are also two options: A private junk is by far the best for many reasons: - You’re the only passengers on board - Smaller than group junks, a private junk can navigate channels inaccessible to large boats and stop at small beaches also off-limits to big vessels - Private junks can anchor wherever the captain chooses, so in a quiet little bay, whereas all large junks are required to spend the night in the same big bay by local police order - Better service and food Of course, these advantages come at a cost—but after all, Halong is a once-in-a-lifetime trip! For luxury private junks, I recommend Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks. For superior, one of the best is Oriental Sun (2 cabins/2 bathrooms), owned by the excellent agency Oriental Bridge Travel. Also excellent are the two Dai Duong junks—the 02 with 2 cabins and the 03 with 3.

Group junks range from Deluxe to Superior. Choose a medium-sized junk (8-12 cabins). Among the Deluxe, Bhaya Cruises and Indochina Junks are flawless. For Budget, the superior Swan, Cozy Boutique, and Ocean 7 are great.

Warning: While group junks can be booked once in Hanoi (except during peak season), private junks must be reserved well in advance, especially in high season.

To make your choice and booking easier, the best is to contact Oriental Bridge Travel, which, unlike other agencies that offer every junk imaginable (from the best to the worst), has carefully selected 2 or 3 in each category. Check their website and, in the menu, click all the "Halong" links from "Luxury Private Junks" to "Superior Group Junks."

TRANSPORT TO HALONG BAY

Cruise prices include round-trip transfers between Hanoi and Cat Ba City or Hon Gai. If you want to go to Halong on your own, there are three departure ports for cruises: Cat Ba Island (especially for Lan Ha Bay), Halong City/Bai Chay port (Lan Ha, Halong, and Bai Tu Long), and Cai Rong, which serves only Bai Tu Long Bay. From Hanoi: To Cat Ba, take the Hanoi-Haiphong bus and the Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat (3-hour journey). This is the fastest option since the boat arrives directly in Cat Ba City. Buy a combined ticket for Hanoi-Haiphong + Haiphong-Cat Ba speedboat. For Halong City, there are frequent direct buses. From other cities: Direct buses from Haiphong or Cat Ba City to Ninh Binh and Sapa. WHERE TO STAY IN CAT BA? If you spend a night in Cat Ba (not essential), there are more and more hotels. Here are the ones I liked among those I’ve visited: 2-star: Cat Ba Dream Impeccable, with a large terrace overlooking Cat Ba Bay, and unbeatable prices: $15-20 for a single/double/twin, $30 for a large triple. The owner is a great cook. 3-star: Hung Long Harbour Brand new and spotless, overlooking Cat Ba Bay. Ask for rooms with a balcony (the suites have very large terraces). Great value for the quality! Single/double: Standard 65 $, Deluxe 80 $, Suite 100 $, extra person: 30 $ There are also several bungalow hotels on the beach: on Monkey Island (3 km from Cat Ba City), the Cat Ba Monkey Island Resort; another on a different island 5 km south of Cat Ba City, the Cat Ba Ocean Beach Resort; and a third, the Cat Ba Beach Resort. In the mountains inside the island, you can stay at the Cat Ba Suoi Goi Resort and the Cat Ba Whisper Bungalows. RESTAURANTS In Cat Ba City, I’ve tried quite a few restaurants—more bad than good. Two excellent floating restaurants in Cat Beo, especially the one on the left. WHAT TO DO? Beyond cruises, there are some interesting sites to visit on the island: · Visit the Cannon Fort: No one goes there, and everyone’s wrong! It’s not far, just behind Cat Ba City on Nui Ngoc Road, the street leading to Cat Beo. You climb to 177 m altitude at the top of a hill with a superb panoramic view of Halong and Lan An Bays. In 1942, the French installed an artillery fort with three 137 mm cannons controlling the passages in the bay; two remain, along with the casemates. It later became an anti-aircraft post during the Vietnam War. Unfortunately, the last time I went, the road was blocked. Still worth a try—great views from the climb. Entry: 50,000 dong, and it’s worth it! · The national park: It covers three-quarters of the island. You can simply stroll or go trekking, especially the 15 km to Viet Hai village. No animals in sight. Just before the park entrance, visit the Viet Hospital, a series of caves remarkably set up as a hospital during the Vietnam War (there was even a natural pool and a cinema room). · The beaches (Cat Cô): The three beautiful beaches in coves at the southern end of Cat Ba City’s esplanade are taken—the first by a children’s water park and the other two by a huge hotel complex.

Here are some tips from our 6-week trip (summer 2026) to China, Vietnam, and Cambodia. We traveled as a family of four with two kids aged 15 and 12. I hope these notes help other travelers!

CHINA General You’ll need to download and set up a few apps: - Alipay and WeChat for payments (I didn’t withdraw a single bill the entire trip) - Didi for taxis - Amap = Chinese Maps (works great, especially for subways) - A translation app (we used Papago, but it sometimes gave weird results) - Google Lens for translating menus or signs—super handy. - HelloRide for bikes - Gemini and ChatGPT for everything: understanding daily life, enhancing visits, checking the weather, finding things. - HomeExchange if you want to lower travel costs (few listings in Asia except in big cities, often expats) - Trip.com is very useful, even essential, for trains, domestic flights, and hotels. Like Booking.com, the more you book with them, the more perks you get. So I’d even suggest checking flight tickets on this site, even if it’s a bit pricier. However, buying train tickets is complicated because (1) they only open 15 days in advance, and (2) they sell out fast. Trip.com just promises to buy them as soon as they’re available but doesn’t always succeed. It’s stressful and might force you to change your plans, especially if you’re aiming for a sleeper car and there are no seats left. Watch out for station names—many cities have multiple stations, including a high-speed rail one outside the city. For internet, we got the Asia plan from Holafly. It worked but seemed much slower than Chinese internet. I regretted not buying a Chinese SIM card because without internet in China, everything is VERY complicated (money, transport, etc.).

For the firewall, we used ExpressVPN, but it wasn’t always reliable. A bit disappointing. Ask ChatGPT for tips with screenshots to improve the settings.

Since we only had one SIM card with internet, we couldn’t rent shared bikes. If I were to do it again, I’d get a SIM for each person, even the kids, because distances in cities are huge. We walked *a lot*. Same goes for buses—it’s tricky with just one internet connection. Better to have a phone per person with internet. Book your visits as far in advance as possible—they often sell out. Watch out for power banks: if they don’t explicitly say "3C," they’ll confiscate it. Even if there’s a little airplane logo.

Shanghai In the evening, the streets leading to the Bund from the metro were so crowded that police were out in force blocking roads. Arrive early. We went around the north side.

Suzhou Be careful—there are two stations (common in China), and the high-speed rail one is 45–50 minutes from the old town. The Humble Administrator’s Garden was *packed*—we don’t recommend it. It turned into a marathon day from Shanghai (almost 4 hours from our hotel to the garden).

Beijing Forbidden City: Don’t go—I know it’s a shame, but it’s too crowded. I couldn’t buy tickets on the official site because of the kids’ passports. We ended up with a guided tour, the only way to get in (tickets sell out fast). The visit was disappointing—bad guide *and* massive crowds. You’ll queue a lot to enter and see certain areas. You’ll be checked often, so pack your bags carefully. Great Wall at Mutianyu: Crowded. Two hours by bus, and even though we arrived early, people were already leaving! I really think the best option is to leave your big bags in Beijing and stay overnight near the Wall. That way, you’ll have it to yourself a bit more. For transport: get off at Tiananmen Square metro and look for buses with official guides in bright yellow-green vests. No need to buy tickets online—they made me cancel mine to rebook on the spot. Buses leave when full. Note: the cable car and chairlift are separate—if you want to go up one side and down the other, you’ll need different tickets. The endless queue for the toboggan ride put us off. Quick tip: Incredible swimming spot in Beijing—on the north shore of Houhai Lake, you can swim by crossing the barrier. We did it twice with about ten other people. Bring a swimsuit!

Shapotou Desert Amazing, but it gets *very* hot in the afternoon. We had a tent (not an air-conditioned bungalow), which was unbearable during the day. We hung out in the restaurant. The paid activities are fun, except the camels—they look sad. The real highlight is the evening and sunset. The only downside: you can’t explore the desert alone or far—they don’t rent 4x4s, for example. We stayed at "The Desert Camping Hotel of the Proprietress of Shapotou." They were lovely.

Zhongwei Gaomiao Temple and its underground: Fun and short—you’ll see quirky Buddhist hell paintings.

Xi’an Terracotta Army: We took a Didi because for four people, a car was almost the same price as four shuttle tickets. It was packed—chaotic to see properly. We visited the halls in order: 3, 2, then 1—a good choice. Hua Shan Mountains: Left before sunrise to arrive when the ticket office opened (7 AM, I think). We were shocked to see so many people already coming down. 45 minutes by bus to the west cable car, then 15 minutes up. We did the west, south, east, central, then north peaks (in that order) before taking the other cable car down (you can buy the ticket at the top). A beautiful day. In the city, check out...

Chengdu Panda Research Center: Like Hua Shan, plan to arrive when the ticket office opens. Already *tons* of people, and it moves fast to see the big pandas before their nap. Have them drop you at the west entrance (not south), or you’ll have to walk uphill. Leshan Giant Buddha: Interesting. The trip is a bit long (metro, then train, then city bus, then shuttle on-site). We didn’t take the boat option but walked. In the end, you only spend a few minutes at the Buddha’s feet, but it’s a nice day out. Hotel tip: Panda Enjoy Home Hotel Apartments (Chengdu East Railway Station Dongda Road Branch). The view is insane, and the neighborhood is super convenient and nice. 646 CNY for 2 nights. Swimming: The municipal pool is an interesting experience, but don’t expect to swim—no one does. Everyone just splashes around where they can stand. The hours are a bit odd, with a break in the late afternoon.

Kunming The bike path along Dian Lake is pretty and often well-protected from cars. But like everywhere in China, it’s *packed*. Not much to say about visits—the flower market is a wholesale market, not very interesting. The ethnic minorities museum closed right in front of us. All the big malls are good for shopping.

Dali We thought we could bike around the lake in two days. Wrong on two counts: First, the lake’s edge is blocked to traffic and reserved for bikes (or tourist mini-buses). So you’re stuck on the main road, which never gives you a view of the lake, with all the trucks and cars. Doing 120 km like that wouldn’t make sense, in our opinion. The rice fields around are nice but not as impressive as elsewhere, so Dali isn’t worth it for that. The old town, all restored, is pretty but *packed*—thousands of people, especially in the evening.

Hekou (Vietnam border) Comfortable train from Kunming. In the parking lot, a bus (not well-marked, but Didi is an option) takes you to the border in 15–20 minutes. Short wait at both border posts. Fun to see the two lampposts near the border line: the Chinese one is new, modern, with a surveillance camera (of course), while the Vietnamese one is old and a bit rusty.

VIETNAM General: - You’ll need the Grab app for taxis - Very disappointed with 12Go—it doesn’t show all buses, never connects you with the company, and refuses refunds. Try booking directly with companies like FUTA Bus instead. - Credit cards are often accepted (supermarkets and modern stores), otherwise, you’ll need cash

Lao Cai 2 km between the border and the train station. The sleeper bus to Hanoi with Sao Viet is well-organized—it works.

Hanoi Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum closes early (10:30 AM, I think). Women’s Museum: Very good, not too long Temple of Literature: Beautiful, fairly quick This is where you should buy souvenirs, clothes, and knockoffs—the prices are reasonable, and the sellers are nicer than elsewhere. We recommend Cho Dong Xuan.

Tu Long Bay We did 2 days, 1 night (so really 24 hours on the boat) with Parfum d’Automne (French-speaking agency), which put us on a Cycad Cruise boat. Cost: 300 € per person—expensive, but it was amazing, super luxurious, and the buffet meals were delicious. We don’t regret the splurge. The only downside: no swimming in the bay (but there’s a pool on the boat). To swim, you’d need a 3-day, 2-night trip to an area not protected by the maritime park.

Phong Nha If you didn’t do the northern mountains due to time or weather (like us), Phong Nha is a great stop for a motorbike ride. It’s beautiful, especially the mountains west of the city toward the caves. There are two (small) swimming spots at the Botanic Garden—a pleasant 45-minute walk without stops. Hotel tip: Sunbeam Village (very friendly, pool, breakfast by the river, motorbike rentals)

Da Nang Hotel tip: Meridians by Hsuite—you’ll have the beach almost to yourself. You’ll still need to walk 15–20 minutes to the hyper-touristy area if you want to rent surfboards (150–200k VND per hour). The beach is beautiful, and the water is 30°C—great for a break on a long trip, especially since all transport goes through Da Nang.

Hoi An 45 minutes from Da Nang, so it’s easy to visit in a day, especially since the city isn’t that big and it’s *very* hot. Cooking class: MS Hanh cooking class—great (the market tour is a bit useless). We don’t recommend the "basket boat" tour—it’s a bit sad on a big brown pond with elderly guides.

Ho Chi Minh City Ben Thanh Market is a nightmare: starting prices are exorbitant, and the vendors are aggressive. Don’t go. The War Remnants Museum can be really tough for kids.

Can Tho Avoid this city. We made the mistake of going to see the floating market—don’t.

Chau Doc No Grab in the city, but regular taxis. One day is enough if you go early to the forest and the mountain in the late afternoon. 250k VND per person for the forest and its canals (45 minutes by motorbike) The sunset at Victoria Nui Sam can be magnificent if the clouds cooperate. Cheap and good restaurant: Quan Nem Nuong Sau Hiep Hotel tip: Homestay Khoa (2,250,000 VND for 3 nights)—adorable hostess, full of tips, clean rooms.

The speedboat to Cambodia is more comfortable than a bus. Book with Hangchau a few days in advance—payment in cash on the day (1,640,000 đ).

CAMBODIA General: - Issues with the "Bakong Tourists" app—we had to go to a big bank to load money onto it. We barely used it afterward.

Phnom Penh For us, a day and a half is enough if you want to spend more time elsewhere. Markets close early (around 6 PM) and are less interesting than in Hanoi, for example. The Royal Palace has a break from 11 AM to 2 PM, but there aren’t many people in the afternoon.

Siem Reap Trip with Capitol company—the bus is basic but cheap. Departs at 10:15 AM, 7-hour ride. Angkor entrance fee: 62 USD per person for a 3-day pass. Tickets are picked up at Angkor Enterprise. Renting two 125cc motorbikes: 10 USD each, plus 7 USD for gas. By bike, it took me 25 minutes to reach Angkor Wat’s pools. A basic city bike rental was 1 USD per hour. Short circuit by motorbike (in reverse): 7 hours with stops everywhere. Grand tour by tuk-tuk: Only 5 temples, 4.5 hours. If you want to see lots of monkeys, they’re grouped west of Bayon. For the temples, we asked Gemini (AI) at each stop to point out details that might interest kids (who can get bored with the repetition). It gave fun facts and things to look for—great for the little ones. Hotel tip: The Five Senses, run by a Frenchman, Bruno, who knows Cambodia inside out and organizes tours. Restaurant tip: Wild (only spring rolls, but *so* many varieties—delicious and cheap) Watch out: 1 hour to the airport, 50 km from the city. Show tip: The Phare Circus

Hi everyone, we’re a couple in our thirties and we’ve decided to visit northwest Vietnam with AmicaTravel for their "meet-up in Lolo Land" circuit. I’m currently looking at the itinerary with the Lonely Planet and reading the many posts on this site, especially Lansay’s, which are really inspiring. Here are the stages of the circuit: Day 1: Hanoi – arrival Day 2: Hanoi visit Day 3: Hanoi – Thac Ba Day 4: Thac Ba – Luc Yen – Ha Giang Day 5: Ha Giang – Dong Van Day 6: Dong Van – Meo Vac – Bao Lac Day 7: Bao Lac – Ba Be Lake Day 8: Ba Be visit Day 9: Ba Be – Cao Bang Day 10: Cao Bang – Ban Gioc – Cao Bang Day 11: Cao Bang – Lang Son Day 12: Lang Son – Halong Bay Day 13: Halong Bay – Hanoi Day 14: Hanoi – departure Otherwise, the period would be from April 21, 2012, to May 5, 2012, but this could vary by a day or two if it’s worth it. I haven’t made the reservation yet because I’m trying to find out if all the stages of the circuit are interesting (thanks to this forum). We’d like to stay with locals as much as possible and maybe spend an extra day in one region to avoid just "passing through"—settle in a bit. We’d also like to do some trekking, and I read in Lansay’s posts that Bac Ha would be a good option for that (this stage isn’t included in the initial circuit), unless other stages of the circuit are just as good for trekking.

Finally, regarding the last stage in Halong Bay, what’s the best way to explore it? It seems very crowded (and I don’t know if the junk boat included in the circuit is designed for a small group or very large groups, which we’d prefer to avoid if possible). I read a post here that I can’t find anymore about a couple who did a stage with a small stay on an island or something like that—it sounded paradise-like.

Generally, we’d like to avoid running into too many tourists (yes, I know it’s a bit paradoxical), but it’s mainly to encourage encounters with locals and maybe with a small group of travelers. If others want to do this circuit, why not... but we’re hoping to travel in a very small group (maximum 6 people).

Otherwise, for the flight, I was thinking of booking with Vietnam Airlines—is that a good choice? Thanks in advance for your great tips.

My husband and I are planning a 10-day trip to Northern Vietnam in November, traveling independently (no agency organizing everything) and using local buses. We’d like to spend at least 3 days in each place (including Meo Vac). We’re wondering if it’s possible to find local guides for day hikes, and if so, in which towns/villages (Meo Vac plus one or two other spots to explore the surrounding area). Thanks!

I’m starting a discussion about guides in the Mekong Delta because we’ve just finished our trip in this region and had a hard time finding a French-speaking guide. We had Thanh—she speaks French really well and travels all over the delta region, including Ho Chi Minh City. She’s super friendly and flexible. I recommend her wholeheartedly. If it can help someone... Feel free to contact us for her number.

We're planning to spend a month in Vietnam. Is hiring a guide helpful?

A message in a bottle: For a three-week trip in November... is it possible to go hiking without a guide in northern Vietnam, getting around to the hiking sites by public transport, bikes, or on foot? And if so, which areas specifically? Thanks to anyone who replies!8

Hello everyone,

I’m planning my upcoming trip from North to South Vietnam for May 2026. There’ll be two couples in their sixties and older... I’ve received proposals from three agencies with a driver and French-speaking guide. The one I’ve chosen, which is often mentioned in this forum, suggests this itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts: HANOI, arrival on 04/29/26, 2 nights BAC HA, 1 night HA GIANG, 1 night NAM DAM, 1 night DONG VAN, 1 night BAO LAC, 1 night BA BE, 1 night HANOI, 1 night NINH BINH, 2 nights HALONG BAY (BAI TULONG), 1 night HUE, 2 nights HOI AN, 3 nights SAIGON, 1 night CAN THO, 1 night SAIGON, 1 night I’d like to know if the stop in Nam Dam is worth staying overnight or if we should just visit and continue to Dong Van. Also, would it make more sense to fly from Hoi An to Can Tho and finish with 2 nights in Saigon instead? That’s what I’d like your input on. Thanks in advance, and have a great summer! 🌞 Monique

Hi there,

Here’s the itinerary I’ve planned for May with my partner—what do you think? I’m not entirely sure if my choices are the best. We’re traveling independently, no guide, no agency, and using public transport.

- Hanoi: Arrival at 10 AM – 1 day (05/09) - Mai Chau: 2 days (including visits to the Pa Co and Mai Chau markets) (05/10 and 05/11) - Pu Luong (Lang Bang): 2 days (05/12 and 05/13) - Tam Coc: 2 days (05/14 and 05/15) - Tu Long Bay: 2 days (05/16 and 05/17) - Hanoi: 1 day – Night train (05/18) - Hue: 2 days (05/19 and 05/20) - Hoi An: 2 days (05/21 and 05/22) - Da Nang: 1 day (05/23) - Flight from Da Nang to Can Tho (05/24 and 05/25) - Ben Tre: 2 days (05/26 and 05/27) - Ho Chi Minh City: 2 days (05/28 and 05/29)

Thanks for your feedback! Have a great day.

hi everyone, I want to travel in the north for 3 weeks in September-October 2026 to meet ethnic minorities, photograph mountain rice terraces and their harvest, and revisit Halong Bay—but maybe Lan Ha Bay instead. Can you recommend one or more local agencies? Thanks, and happy holidays!

Hi, We’re traveling to Vietnam (the delta), Cambodia, and Laos as a group of four for two months. We’re looking for info on how to get around by car with a driver in these countries. Specifically: How much does it cost in these different countries based on distance? Where can we find these cars with drivers? Thanks for your tips, Miguel

Hello, We’ll arrive in Hanoi on April 17, 2025, and plan to head to the Northwest (Sapa region) and Northeast starting on April 20. How many days do you recommend for this trip? We’re two couples and a 4-year-old child. Should we book through an agency in Hanoi and do the circuit by van, or can we manage with buses—like an overnight bus from Hanoi to Sapa, then 2–3 days in the Sapa region, followed by a bus from Sapa to Ha Giang for a 3-day loop? Thanks in advance for your tips, itinerary ideas, accommodation suggestions, guesthouses, restaurants, and any great deals!

Back from Dong Van Big plus: a brand-new highway between Hanoi airport and Tuyen Quang, halfway between Hanoi and Ha Giang. The speed limit is usually 50 km/h, but it still saves time.

In Ha Giang, the Truong Xuan Hotel (Ha Giang Resort) has gone downhill. Stay at the gorgeous guesthouse (varnished wooden bungalows with panoramic terrace and excellent meals) run by Mr. WIN (03 64 86 67 66) in Thôn Tha village, 5 kilometers before Ha Giang. If it's full, try next door at Mr. Cay’s place—also bungalows, but with a less stunning view: 09 79 76 94 67.

Dong Van has become so popular that there are now over 200 hotels and guesthouses (only one existed 5 years ago). I stayed at my usual spot, the Hoang Ngoc, which now has an elevator, but it’s gotten expensive (450,000 VND). Instead, check out one of the two 2-star hotels across the street.

On the other hand, dining options have really improved. The excellent Green Karst (one of the servers, Mr. Hung, is also a French-speaking guide) has two locations—one on the main street and another a bit uphill to the left. Go to the latter.

I revisited Lung Cu, still just as spectacular. There are now small electric trains that take you up to the viewpoint (30,000 VND per person round trip). The Hmong King’s Palace in Sa Phin is still standing strong. Small shops to the left of the staircase—the closest one is run by a descendant of the king, actually a traditional costume chief.

There’s a lovely guesthouse at the top of Ma Pi Leng, run by a super-friendly Hmong guy in a beret (a French legacy) who speaks decent French. The terrace overlooks the Nho Qué River canyon. 250,000 VND for two, breakfast included (dinner is 200,000 VND).

Among the road trips through breathtaking landscapes you can take in Southeast Asia—Thailand, for example, and especially Vietnam, where it’s possible to complete three legendary circuits in completely different environments—I highly recommend the Mekong Delta off the tourist trail!

This route is easy to follow, and travelers can use the travel journal and interactive map that MyAtlas, now a Voyage Forum partner, kindly published. For those who want more details, the full day-by-day account of the route, including mileage, is now available on the BOD bookstore. This practical little guide to a lived adventure zooms in on a region that’s still relatively unknown and packed with extra insights from someone who’s spent over twelve years in Southeast Asia.

Hi, we're planning a month-long trip to Vietnam and we've received a quote from a local agency (AGENDA TOUR VIETNAM CO.LTD). Does anyone know this agency and can tell us about it?

Thanks for your comments! JLB

I panicked a bit about this during my last trip. My phone said it was connected to the network but had no data. Turns out the issue was with the APN—I had copied an APN code from a Vietnamese operator I found on a forum, thinking it would help, but it actually broke my connection on a travel eSIM. I removed it, reset to default, and it worked right away.

Also, FYI: it’s normal for a travel eSIM not to activate until you’ve landed and turned airplane mode back off. Don’t panic and delete the profile before landing—it’s not broken.

I found a solid troubleshooting guide that covers other cases (no service, signal but no data, etc.) here: https://sogdiaroam.com/fr/blog/esim-ne-fonctionne-pas-au-vietnam

Hello, I’m planning a trip to Vietnam with my partner, and we’re considering Ha Giang in October-November for 4 days on-site to do the loop by bus, since we’re not old enough to ride motorbikes. I see there are sleeper buses—how does that work for sleeping at night, meals, etc.? And what are the rates per person for these 4 days and nights? Then there’s Sapa—what’s the most practical way to travel between the two, or should we return to Hanoi? I’d love recommendations for simple but decent hotels and any other tips you have. Thanks so much! !

I’ve just returned from a trip to northern Vietnam, a mountainous region with stunning landscapes and plenty of hiking trails.

I opted for a tour organized by an agency that offers fair and community-based travel experiences in Vietnam. This trip will remain a wonderful memory for me. I usually travel solo, occasionally using guides, but not as part of an organized tour. For Vietnam, I made an exception—and it was a smart one! Without this agency and their excellent French-speaking guide, I would’ve missed out on some incredible discoveries due to the language barrier and the difficulty of accessing breathtaking off-the-beaten-path sites. We also had an excellent driver who took us to very remote villages via some pretty challenging roads. At each stop, we went on hikes that allowed us to take in stunning scenery and connect with the local people—something that would’ve been impossible without our French-speaking guide. Depending on the stop, we stayed with locals, in lodges, or in hotels. Here’s the itinerary:

Hanoi – 2 days in a hotel Tu Le – 2 days in a lodge Mu Cang Chai – 2 days with locals Sapa – 2 days in a lodge Bac Ha – 1 night with locals Hoang Su Phi – 2 nights in a lodge Ha Giang – 1 night in a hotel Tam Coc (land Halong) Halong Bay – 1-night cruise

You can check out the full details of this tour and photos on my blog: Exploring Northern Vietnam

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out! Philippe

Hi fellow travelers! I’m planning a little 3-week trip to Vietnam in mid-to-late March. It’ll probably be the only time I can go. I enjoyed Thailand but clearly preferred Laos—it was calmer. For Vietnam, I don’t have a precise idea of what I want to see yet, and I’m the type to improvise a bit once I’m there. I’m not super adventurous but I’m curious, and I prefer street food over restaurants, markets and off-the-beaten-path villages over big attractions. But I don’t want to miss the must-sees either. So, given that I’ll only be there for 3 weeks, I’m wondering: should I absolutely stick to either the north or the south? Or is it possible to have a nice, not-too-hectic trip by spending, say, one week in the south and two in the north?... (I’d take a multi-city flight for arrival and departure) What do you think? Thanks! 🙂