Hi everyone,
we’re a couple in our thirties and we’ve decided to visit northwest Vietnam with AmicaTravel for their "meet-up in Lolo Land" circuit. I’m currently looking at the itinerary with the Lonely Planet and reading the many posts on this site, especially Lansay’s, which are really inspiring. Here are the stages of the circuit:
Day 1: Hanoi – arrival
Day 2: Hanoi visit
Day 3: Hanoi – Thac Ba
Day 4: Thac Ba – Luc Yen – Ha Giang
Day 5: Ha Giang – Dong Van
Day 6: Dong Van – Meo Vac – Bao Lac
Day 7: Bao Lac – Ba Be Lake
Day 8: Ba Be visit
Day 9: Ba Be – Cao Bang
Day 10: Cao Bang – Ban Gioc – Cao Bang
Day 11: Cao Bang – Lang Son
Day 12: Lang Son – Halong Bay
Day 13: Halong Bay – Hanoi
Day 14: Hanoi – departure
Otherwise, the period would be from April 21, 2012, to May 5, 2012, but this could vary by a day or two if it’s worth it. I haven’t made the reservation yet because I’m trying to find out if all the stages of the circuit are interesting (thanks to this forum). We’d like to stay with locals as much as possible and maybe spend an extra day in one region to avoid just "passing through"—settle in a bit. We’d also like to do some trekking, and I read in Lansay’s posts that Bac Ha would be a good option for that (this stage isn’t included in the initial circuit), unless other stages of the circuit are just as good for trekking.
Finally, regarding the last stage in Halong Bay, what’s the best way to explore it? It seems very crowded (and I don’t know if the junk boat included in the circuit is designed for a small group or very large groups, which we’d prefer to avoid if possible). I read a post here that I can’t find anymore about a couple who did a stage with a small stay on an island or something like that—it sounded paradise-like.
Generally, we’d like to avoid running into too many tourists (yes, I know it’s a bit paradoxical), but it’s mainly to encourage encounters with locals and maybe with a small group of travelers. If others want to do this circuit, why not... but we’re hoping to travel in a very small group (maximum 6 people).
Otherwise, for the flight, I was thinking of booking with Vietnam Airlines—is that a good choice?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
I’ll just say a few words since I can’t really tell you if your program is good or not (even though I’ve been to Vietnam twice and am going back for a third time this year under very personal circumstances). But one phrase makes me smile—well, not really smile—the title of their program: "R.V. in Lolo Land"!!!!🙁
It doesn’t mean anything! It’s just there to lure in customers! Let’s leave this people in peace! I loved the show, but when I see agencies turning it into a business, I find it almost disrespectful...
Sorry, but I had to say it...
Anyway, I hope you have a great stay in this wonderful country.
Best regards,
Mavn
P.S. I’ve done the route you’re about to take, and we simply called it the "Hanoi/Babe loop." As for the junk boat, to find out if it’s designed for a small group or a large one, ask Amica—they can give you the details.
I can really only answer one thing: the flight !😉 We take this airline at least twice a year for round trips, and we’ve been doing so for... six years now, and we’re very satisfied with it. It might not be the height of luxury compared to other Asian airlines (which, by the way, aren’t priced the same...), but it has everything you need. Best of all, it’s a direct flight with no layovers from Charles de Gaulle, usually arriving in the early morning, which gives you a full day ahead of you when you land. You can just sleep well that night to recover from the fatigue and jet lag!!!!! Plus, if you’re coming from the regions, the pre-connection is almost free, and your luggage is checked through from the start—no need to collect and recheck it at Charles de Gaulle. It’s so relaxing!!!
For the trip itself, you’ll get answers from people much more experienced than me. --Safe travels! Best regards, Kimtwo
Le vent et les turbulences sont l'oeuvre de Dieu, mais la voile et le gouvernail nous appartiennent..
Voyager c'est aller de soi à soi, en passant par les autres (proverbe touareg)
I really loved that show, but when I see some agencies turning it into a business!!!!
In the show, the rugby player stayed for 15 days and took part in fieldwork. That’s not the same as a quick photo visit in just a few hours, especially since the road they talked about and feared in the show now goes right into the heart of the village.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
This rugby player should come to MY countryside (without Lolo) and help with farm work alongside real Vietnamese people. I’m not sure he’d last the full 15 days... (my back hurts just watching them work).
People here barely earn 1,000,000₫ a month working 7 days a week.
Welcome to Vietnam!
si vous n'aimez pas mes informations, ne les lisez pas, lisez autre chose, mais respectez les car elles serviront a d'autres
Hi there, and thanks for the quick replies.
The itinerary title is a bit catchy, but we really liked this northeast region (we hesitated with the western part), and this agency has good reviews on this forum (and I think—though I’m not sure—it’s the one France 2 traveled with).
Anyway, okay for Vietnam Airlines. For the Halong Bay part, they suggest sailing toward Bai Tu Long Bay, which is less crowded with mass tourism, and that works well for us. However, they don’t mention visiting any caves, which seem amazing, and I’ve read here that Lan Ha Bay and Cat Ba Island are also less touristy and that hiking on the island—hoping to see some wildlife—is a great experience.
I’ll definitely send another message to the agency for more details on this part.
If anyone’s traveling in this area during that time, feel free to write to us—same if others have already done it.
Looking forward to hearing from you,
I understand. This part of the Northeast is stunning. I did it in 2010 and came back amazed. We found ourselves in a village market with no tourists at all; we were the only three "foreigners" among the locals going about "their" market. It was surreal—feeling like we were the only people in the world among so many. Getting lost among them while trying not to be noticed!!! It’s magical. Of course, there’s always that moment when someone spots you, and then... we all laugh heartily.
We also visited a village (the name escapes me, sorry...) where the houses are enclosed by stone walls. Once again, we were completely alone on the paths, able to greet and play with the little kids who came to see us. And in the evening, practically alone in the village, we ended the night with karaoke (and beer, of course), still just us and a few young Vietnamese who sang beautifully!!!
We had a "young" forum member who joined us for this Northeast adventure. We split the costs, and most importantly, she became a very close friend—we still see each other regularly.
As for CAT BA, I didn’t like the seaside area—too many hotels; it reminded me too much of the coast back home. But I *loved* the center of the island, where we stayed with a local family (a young couple with two little girls). Absolutely charming. We even watched a World Cup football match outside on a TV in their courtyard, with all the villagers (men) and a draft beer we took turns buying, served in a jug!!! Needless to say, we had a hard time paying for our round—they all wanted to treat us!!! What a laugh we had!!! So many wonderful memories. And there, too, we were alone. Maybe June was a good time to visit...
As for the Park, we didn’t go—it was way too hot!!!! We preferred walking along a beach in the "countryside" with no houses, no hotels, just us.
That’s how I felt about it, and I could go on and on... but I’ll stop here.
Like Mavn, I really find the title clickbaity. Too bad, because Amica is a good agency run by a friendly and dynamic team.
It’s like after the *Faut pas rêver* show, which completely made up the "love market" in Sapa a few years ago. Agencies rushed to use that name, just like they did with Khau Vai. It’s become a tourist trap.
When will an agency offer "the Koh Lanta experience" in Con Dao, or a *Pékin Express* remake with 30,000 VND per day?
Amica Travel is indeed the agency that organized Michalak’s trip. I don’t see anything wrong with them trying to capitalize on it—I don’t know them personally since I use another agency in Hanoi—but for meeting their clients in some off-the-beaten-path spots, I think you can trust their ability to organize this kind of trip. In particular, this itinerary looks really interesting if you do Ha Giang Dong Van on a Saturday (Tuyet Quyen weekly market) and Dong Van Bao Lac on Sunday (Dong Van and Meo Vac weekly markets). That way, you won’t regret missing Bac Ha market, which is interesting but more touristy since it’s closer to Sapa.
For Halong Bay, you could head to Quan Lan Island (avoid weekends because of the influx of Vietnamese tourists). There’s a small hotel just 100m from a paradise-like 3km-long beach (if the weather’s nice, obviously) that’s practically deserted during the week. The hotel is called "Le Pont."
We’re doing the same trip... from May 5th to 20th!
Following some advice from this forum and since it’ll be our second stay, we’ve changed a few options, especially for Hanoi.
Watch out—the itinerary includes a meet-up with an ethnic group that isn’t from the region!!!
If you haven’t signed yet, take your time and cross-check the info. Otherwise, we might run into each other at the airport—some arriving, others leaving😉
See you soon?
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Hi there,
I haven’t received the agency’s offer yet, so I’m not sure what hotels they’ll suggest in Hanoi or the mountains, but I’ll let you know so we can make the right choices. This’ll be our very first trip to Asia, but we might just run into each other at the airport!
Out of curiosity, are you traveling with a big group or a small one you already know?
Have you already made your reservation?
See you soon, maybe! 🙂
Yes, our booking is done—there are two of us going. The hotel in Hanoi is great; it’s in the Old Quarter. The other accommodations are good too.
We’re doing Halong Bay in the opposite direction from yours, on a luxury junk boat.
Everything should go smoothly.
Let me know when you get the proposal. 🙂
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Like any good adventure, don’t forget your camera. You’ll need it to liven up evenings with friends when you get back and show them proof, saying "like Michalak, I lived with the Lolos." Your colleagues are gonna be so jealous when you tell them about your Vietnam adventure!!!
tell them "like Michalak, I lived with the Lolos."
Honestly, I really don’t think it’s fair to say we lived with the LOLO. At best, we can say we saw some LOLO, and with a bit of luck, talked to them—but that’s about it. Let’s be realistic ;)
We never go anywhere without our camera, and it’s always a joy to share beautiful trips.
Have a great day.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
At a push, we could say we’ve seen some H’MONG people, and with a bit of luck, even talked to them—but let’s be realistic, that’s about it.
It’s a bit like lions—it’s all down to luck. Either way, you’ll be the star at the office coffee machine. You might even get promoted to incentive manager at your company! 🙂
Good evening,
we received a response suggesting, like Asia7, to take a private trip (fine if no one else wants the same, too bad). They don’t recommend Cat Ba Island, calling it too "touristy," so we’re sticking with Bai Tu Long Bay, but I don’t have details about the boat or the cruise itinerary yet...
The initial circuit now includes 3 days of trekking around Bac Ha (we go from 14 to 15 days, but some stops are shortened). Here’s the new itinerary (in bold, what’s the same as the old one):
Saturday 21/04/2012 Hanoi – arrival
Sunday 22/04/2012 Hanoi – visit – Lao Cai
Monday 23/04/2012 Lao Cai – Bac Ha
Tuesday 24/04/2012 Bac Ha – trekking
Wednesday 25/04/2012 Bac Ha – trekking
Thursday 26/04/2012 Bac Ha – trekking
Friday 27/04/2012 Bac Ha – Ha Giang
Saturday 28/04/2012 Ha Giang – Dong Van
Sunday 29/04/2012 Dong Van – Bao Lac
Monday 30/04/2012 Bao Lac – Ba Be
Tuesday 01/05/2012 Ba Be
Wednesday 02/05/2012 Ba Be – Hanoi
Thursday 03/05/2012 Hanoi – Ha Long
Friday 04/05/2012 Ha Long – Hanoi
Saturday 05/05/2012 Hanoi – departure
In summary, one night in Hanoi was cut, we’ve added a stop in Lao Cai (don’t know it), and 3 days of trekking in Bac Ha. The following stops were also removed: Thac Ba, Luc Yen, Meo Vac (early in the trip), as well as Cao Bang, Ban Gioc, and Lang Son (toward the end).
Do you think this is better, or are we missing out on some exceptional stops? I haven’t read up on the missing ones yet, but I thought I’d seen that the area around Cao Bang was quite beautiful. Personally, I’d have preferred 2 days of trekking (not 3) in different regions, but I don’t know if that’s possible or if the landscapes in the Northeast are the same...
I also thought I’d read that this part was more "lunar" and rocky, while around Thac Ba or further south, the rice terraces were more predominant.
Thanks for your insights so I can respond to the agency.
Lao Cai (don’t know it) Near Sapa
(read Larsay’s posts..)
What a shame to miss Meo Vac, Cao Bang, and Ban Gioc, but you’ve got to choose🤪, the landscapes aren’t the same. I think there are fewer tourists around Meo Vac, though I’m not sure. Either way, the ethnic groups aren’t the same.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Looking at photos of the regions around Bac Ha or Cao Bang, the landscapes are really different (and it’s interesting to see both). In the end, this new itinerary appeals to me (though it’s actually their Flower H’mong circuit, which we’d hesitated over), but 3 days of trekking is too much. I’d keep just one day to visit Cao Bang province and Ban Gioc. With the itinerary below, do you think it’s doable in terms of distance and not rushing through everything? Should we add an extra night and enjoy one of the stops?)
Saturday 21/04/2012 Hanoi arrival
Sunday 22/04/2012 Hanoi visit – Lao Cai
Monday 23/04/2012 Lao Cai – Bac Ha
Tuesday 24/04/2012 Bac Ha trekking
Wednesday 25/04/2012 Bac Ha – Ha Giang
Thursday 26/04/2012 Ha Giang – Dong Van
Friday 27/04/2012 Dong Van – Bao Lac
Saturday 28/04/2012 Bao Lac – Ba Be
Sunday 29/04/2012 Ba Be
Monday 30/04/2012 Ba Be – Cao Bang
Tuesday 01/05/2012 Cao Bang – Ban Gioc – Cao Bang
Wednesday 02/05/2012 Cao Bang – Lang Son
Thursday 03/05/2012 Lang Son – Halong Bay
Friday 04/05/2012 Halong Bay – Hanoi
Saturday 05/05/2012 Hanoi departure
Is this better? I realize Mu Cang Chai isn’t doable because of the distances—too bad, the scenery there is amazing.
Is it better? I realize that Mu Cang Chai isn't feasible because of the distances—too bad for the scenery.
Three days of trekking in Bac Hà is just to kill time🙂
Those 3 days are better spent on the Mu Cang Chai route, or else add an extra day in Meo Vac to try to sync with the backward market or one more day in Bao Lac to spend at least 24 hours with the Black Lolos (several villages to visit). This way, it won’t feel like a safari visit, and you can focus on their activities.
I can send you the name of an agency that knows this area better in a PM, and I’m sure their rates will be more advantageous for you.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Just pointing out there are good hotels in Bao Lac, very clean unlike what’s said in those long, boring, error-filled posts
+1
It’s probably because there’s no commission at the meet-up that some get badmouthed...
🙁 And there we go, the dance is on!!!!
You’re all so annoying — every single one of you, with your forum feuds. We don’t care about commissions or criticism—what we want is good info, nothing more.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
We don’t care about commissions, criticism—what we want is good information, nothing more
I disagree with you on this point :)
I think this is a forum, so it’s interactive. We should answer the question asked, and it’s not right to dump long posts full of errors and questionable personal opinions.
It’s this kind of behavior that harms the friendly atmosphere. Imagine a casual conversation where someone suddenly launches into a monologue—or worse, a sales pitch that has nothing to do with the topic.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
There’s no malice or gossip here. Just so you know, some people—including one individual—use the forum for commercial purposes. A lot of their information is biased. Just a heads-up. 🙂
Hi there,
So I had the itinerary adjusted to something like this:
21 April: Arrival in Hanoi
Water puppet show.
Night at Hanoi Paradise Hotel.
22 April: Hanoi – Duong Lam village – hot spring – Nghia Lo
Homestay night.
23 April: Nghia Lo – Khau Pa – Mu Cang Chai
Suoi Mo Hotel.
24 April: Mu Cang Chai – La Pan Tan – Mu Cang Chai
6 km hike – Accommodation: Suoi Mo Hotel.
25 April: Mu Cang Chai – Bac Ha
Homestay night.
26 April: Bac Ha – Ha Giang
Homestay with Tay people.
27 April: Trek in Ha Giang
Homestay with Tay people.
28 April: Ha Giang – Dong Van – Meo Vac
Night at Hoa Cuong Hotel.
29 April: Sunday Meo Vac – Bao Lac
Night at Thuy Duong Hotel.
30 April: Bao Lac – Khuoi Khon Black Lo Lo village – Quang Uyen
Homestay night.
1 May: Quang Uyen – Ban Gioc – Ba Be
Homestay night.
2 May: Ba Be – Hanoi
Night at Hanoi Paradise Hotel.
3 May: Hanoi – Halong
Red Dragon or Prince junk boat.
4 May: Boat – Hanoi
Night at Hanoi Paradise Hotel.
5 May: Hanoi – Departure
What do you think? Do you think the return to Hanoi to catch the flight (23 hours) is too tight if I spend 2 nights on the junk boat? Otherwise, we quite like it as is.
This is an offer from another agency but it’s very similar to a circuit from the first agency.
We’re planning to book the flight tomorrow and the circuit right after.
At work, the days off are already requested and approved... yes, it’s smelling like travel (and not just a holiday, heh).
30 April: Bao Lac – Lo Lo Black Village of Khuoi Khon – Quang Uyen
Homestay overnight.
- You’ll have to tell us about your experience with the Black Lo Los.
- And especially which homestay you stayed at.
- I still don’t understand this "homestay" system—I’ve lived in Vietnam for years, and the few times I’ve considered staying with locals (my family or friends), the police quickly showed up after neighbors alerted them.
- Thanks
si vous n'aimez pas mes informations, ne les lisez pas, lisez autre chose, mais respectez les car elles serviront a d'autres
What do you think? Do you think returning to Hanoi to catch the flight (at 23:00) is too tight if I stay 2 nights on the junk? Otherwise, as it is, we like it a lot.
It’s a completely comprehensive itinerary—you’ll get to admire a range of ethnic minorities that few tourists get to see in a single trip.
I hope your itinerary was planned around the market days, especially the reverse market Lung Phin near Meo Vac, which few tourists have the chance to attend (see my photos already posted on VF).
Congratulations on dedicating a full day to the Lolo people so you can be better accepted as friends visiting them rather than as a photo safari.
You can definitely spend 2 nights on board to sail, as the type of boat you’ve chosen lets you visit Bai Tu Long Bay as well, far from the mass tourism crowds🙂.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
For homestays, especially in sensitive areas like the Central Highlands, Northern Mountains, Thai Binh, or border posts with Laos, it’s best to check in with the authorities when you arrive in the village to let them know. Generally, it goes smoothly, and it helps avoid issues—like being woken up at 2 AM and threatened with expulsion (I experienced this in Quan Ba). When I visit my in-laws in Nghe An, I always report to the officials and leave them a photocopy of my passport. They’ve known me for four years now, but they still ask why I’m there. They’re just following the rules, and honestly, it doesn’t bother me much.
Otherwise, what agencies call "homestays" are often accommodations set up by locals to host tourists, with support from the provincial, district, or commune tourism committee. When these are used as stops on treks, they can be pretty basic, but if you’ve stayed in mountain huts in the Alps or Pyrenees, you won’t be surprised. It’s usually a really great experience. Often, like in Nghia Lo, you’ll stay with officials—maybe less "authentic" for purists, but way more comfortable than the local government hotel, which isn’t bad but is pretty impersonal. The meals are usually delicious, and your hosts will share stories about their ethnic group, sing traditional songs, and more. There’s often a really enriching exchange.
This all sounds so tempting, don't forget to tell us all about it!!!
I think I recognize the agency in question😉, we couldn’t work with them because we were already booked🏴☠️.
I wish you a "great trip"—maybe we’ll cross paths on the streets of Hanoi, we arrive at 6:30 AM the day you leave at 11:00 PM😏😏....
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
I hope your itinerary was built around the market days, especially the Lung Phin backward market near Meo Vac that few tourists get to experience
But how can we plan a route around this market when we foreigners can’t figure out the lunar calendar dates? Please share the secret to solving this puzzle!😏
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
I’ve been planning our trip to Vietnam for months, and every day brings a new piece of information—it’s like a treasure hunt...
I’m disappointed I didn’t have all this info from the start of my research.
Market dates, places to visit, people to meet—it feels like we have to pass some kind of probability test just to deserve knowing more.
I’m not blaming Abalone or those who’ve guided us, but rather the whole tourism system (agencies). It seems they don’t understand that some of us are really looking for something different.
They sell us a circuit with promises of typical visits, but then—Ma’am, Sir, no, you won’t see market X, it was yesterday or it’ll be tomorrow—what are we supposed to think about these practices????
Despite everything, I still believe our trip will be amazing because we’re putting our hearts into it and our passion is genuine, but the preparation process is tough.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
I’ve been planning our trip to Vietnam for months, and every day brings a new piece of information—it’s a bit like a treasure hunt…
I’m answering the question asked and not trying to show off my knowledge like in the *Routard* or *Lonely Planet* guidebooks🙂
Market dates
I’ve mentioned the dates of daily, weekly, or recurring markets several times.
Places to visit, people to meet,
I share photos when I get the chance.
On the other hand, I remember answering a question about the "Chùa Keo" pagoda in Nam Định province—pagodas that are over 1,000 years old, with unique features and history that set them apart. It was surprising to learn that this important historical site, which is just as worthwhile as other tourist spots, wasn’t included by the traveler who asked the question. What a shame to miss such an authentic, serene place, far from the hustle and bustle of more or less shady tourist activities.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Hello and I’m thrilled to see the activity on this forum—it’s really great.
As for sharing about this trip, I won’t miss it, but dear Asia, you’ll probably be back before I post it online, and you’ll have plenty to feast your eyes on too.
Regarding the markets, we’re not chasing after them, so we’ll take what comes. We have to work with our departure and arrival dates, and I imagine it’s not easy to make round trips in the mountains to complete this loop and then go back to the market of some village we left 1 or 2 days earlier. For us, the agency suggested it, and in the end, we should be able to see the Quyet Tien market on Saturday the 28th, Meo Vac, and the "backward" market of Lung Phinh on Sunday, and—if I read correctly—the Bao Lac market on Monday. I don’t know if these are the most beautiful or the most popular, but if I don’t see the others, well, I won’t know, so no regrets.
Generally speaking, seeing the people and the ethnic groups is great, but I don’t see myself playing paparazzi by staring at them for hours. Question: what do you all do at these famous markets? Do you buy something from them? We don’t want to rush through this circuit; we’ll take our time and enjoy the present moment. We’re the type to get more excited about landscapes, nature, the calm, and all that.
Okay, I’ll request the 2 nights on the junk boat this morning—we’ll see if it’s doable given our return flight is at 11 PM and we need to be at the airport by at least 7 or 8 PM. Still, what else is there to do/see on a 3-day, 2-night cruise? Any ideas?
Oh, and is the hotel in Hanoi good, or would you recommend another one (I looked at the photos—it’s nice but nothing special)?
Thanks
As for the markets, we don’t chase after them, so we take what comes. We have to work with our departure and arrival dates, and I imagine it’s not easy to make round trips in the mountains to complete this loop and then backtrack to visit the market of a village we left 1 or 2 days earlier.
That’s exactly why a good agency is one that organizes the itinerary to be at the market without unnecessary back-and-forth.
Why do we talk about ethnic markets when visiting northern Vietnam? These markets have a vibrant cultural character for the locals—they’re a weekly, and sometimes annual, meet-up spot, like the Khau Vai Love Market. Some villagers spend an entire night descending from the mountaintops just to reach these supply hubs. It’s of huge importance to them.
Lucky that we have a home/Our Home is Nha May Man/Passing rain and dry seasons/In a full-of-love atmosphere/Besides my new family/I have brothers and sisters/The sun shines over the skies/Let's stay here, with all of us,
Beautiful photos.
You're an abalone artist, but how do you manage to take so many, and in so many different places?
I tend to focus more on the center and the highlands
si vous n'aimez pas mes informations, ne les lisez pas, lisez autre chose, mais respectez les car elles serviront a d'autres
I’m answering the question asked and I’m not trying to show off my knowledge like in the Routard or Lonely Planet guides🙂
I’ll admit I’d love it if you were a bit more chatty sometimes😉 without going overboard, of course...
I’ve mentioned the dates of daily, weekly, or backward-date markets several times
Maybe so, and I’m even sure of it, but how do you expect us to find the info without reading through your 4,000 messages🏴☠️🏴☠️😉...
So, please, do you know the market days in the north? Could you share them with us? A big thank-you in advance—I’m planning a few tweaks to my itinerary based on that😏
Question about the "Chùa Keo" pagoda in Nam Định province;; What a shame to miss such an authentic, serene place, far from the more or less mafia-like tourist hustle.
Don’t worry, it wasn’t me—it’s not on our route at all.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
Hello and I’m thrilled to see the activity on this forum, Sometimes there are a few "landslides" and forum members get carried away, but overall it’s really great.
Generally speaking, seeing people and ethnic groups is nice, but I can’t see myself playing paparazzi by staring at them for hours... question: what do you all do at those famous markets?
We went to Sapa five years ago and visited the Coc Ly market and a few others.
That’s partly why we wanted to return to the north.
We were as captivated by the landscapes as we were by the people in these regions. As Abalone said, it’s at the markets where the real encounters happen.
We don’t stare at people for hours—like them, we take part in market life, have lunch, make a few purchases (that’s our contribution), which we’ll give to our hosts the next day. We soak it all in while keeping in mind not to disturb anyone!!! I think you need a particular interest in ethnic culture to appreciate these moments; otherwise, one or two markets should be enough.
We’re the type to get more excited about landscapes and nature, the peace and quiet, and all that. And us too 😉
Oh, and is the hotel in Hanoi good, or would you recommend another one (I looked at the photos... it’s nice but nothing special)?
It’s probably the agency suggesting it to you. Ours is in the Old Quarter—it’s the May de Ville. I think you should be able to ask for something else if it doesn’t excite you. Don’t hesitate; there’s plenty of choice 😏
Oh, and I’m really looking forward to the full story of your travels!!!😉
Safe travels, see you soon.
Pour bien aimer un pays il faut le manger, le boire et l’entendre chanter. (Michel Déon)
The May de Ville is a great hotel on Gia Ngu Street, which is a relatively quiet street that was occupied by the market two years ago... Since then, some really nice hotels have been built, including the May de Ville. The hotel is a stone's throw from Hoan Kiem Lake and Dinh Liet Street, where you can stroll and eat cheaply in a fantastic atmosphere. It's not the Métropole!!!! But I assure you, if I had the means to stay there for months, that's where I'd go!!!
Best regards - Kimtwo
Le vent et les turbulences sont l'oeuvre de Dieu, mais la voile et le gouvernail nous appartiennent..
Voyager c'est aller de soi à soi, en passant par les autres (proverbe touareg)
Craving Asia... Right in the middle of searching for the best flight deals.
Why not Vietnam! I see you’ve traveled there twice, so I’m taking the chance to pick your brain.
My trip will be solo, backpacking, and two weeks long in February.
Is it easy to get around by public transport, shared taxis, or buses?
I’ve read a bit about the Open Tour buses—
do you need to budget a lot of time and money to move between places?
My experience in Mongolia is making me wonder about this.
I don’t want to spend all my time in transit.
If you’ve got a region or itinerary to recommend for this length without it feeling like a rush, I’m all ears!
But the whole neighborhood is amazing: Dinh Liet, Cau Go, and a bit further, Hang Dao (with night markets on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays). They sell everything and anything—souvenirs, sunglasses, clothes, you name it—and it’s so lively. The locals in Hanoi love it...
You’re going to love the atmosphere in this vibrant area, just like I do. And when you see the banh mi vendors (Vietnamese bread) at the corner of Dinh Liet and Cau Go, sitting behind their big paper bags keeping the food warm... you’ll realize how different it is from back home. It’s less comfortable, but so much more fun!!! ;)
Kimtwo
Le vent et les turbulences sont l'oeuvre de Dieu, mais la voile et le gouvernail nous appartiennent..
Voyager c'est aller de soi à soi, en passant par les autres (proverbe touareg)
A few photos from a market where you feel "at home." A meeting place for the region's ethnic groups, yes!!!! Sometimes it's quite a struggle to get home!!!!😉
Nous arriverons le 17Avril 2025 à Hanoï et comptons faire ensuite à partir du 20/04 le Nord Ouest (région de Sapa) et le Nord Est. Combien faut il de jours…
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Hi fellow travelers,
First trip to Vietnam.
We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet.
Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period?
Any tips would be welcome.
Thanks for your replies.
Hello,
After 1 night in Khao Sok, I’d like to find a 2 Days 1 Night package on the lake.
After reading a lot, I decided to "break the bank" and treat ourselves to a private tour—mainly to avoid the crowds.
But after contacting several operators, they offer "private tours" that are very expensive (around 700 €), yet in the details, the boats can only leave from the pier at 10 AM like everyone else. (I was hoping to leave much earlier.) The morning program is the same for everyone too (private or not). They drop us off at noon at our floating hotel (I’d chosen Phupha Waree). Free afternoon (swimming or kayaking in front of the hotel). We head back by boat for a 1-hour sunset ride. And the next morning, we leave the hotel at 8 AM to be at the pier by 9:30 AM at the latest—end of the trip.
So basically, we’re paying a lot for a private tour just to do the same thing as everyone else at the same time.
Or maybe I just had bad luck in my search.
I contacted Panida Ladi, who’s very popular on forums. We’d agreed on a private tour that matched my request (departure from the pier at 8 AM, very personalized itinerary). We settled on the itinerary and price, she asked for a Wise transfer for a 30% deposit, confirmed receipt of the deposit. Then 30 minutes later, she messaged me to say she was canceling everything because it was impossible to do the requested tour—and promised a quick refund of my deposit.
So here’s my question: Who’s done a *real* private tour on this lake? Who can recommend a reliable agency? Is it even really possible to do a private tour here?
Hi,
I wanted to get some info about the cable car and the bridge—I see lots of different options...
How much time should we allow for these two activities? If we arrive around 4 PM, will we have enough time to visit without rushing?
Thanks
I’m searching for a real gem for my 3rd stay in Koh Lanta: a lovely, high-quality hotel right by an easily accessible beach in a lively spot.
If you know of anything that fits what I’m looking for and want to share, don’t hesitate!
Hi,
On September 1st, we're heading to Kalimantan for six weeks, probably from Pontianak to the Derawan Islands.
I've scoured this site, which is usually my go-to 😉, and others like VoyageForum, but recent info is pretty scarce.
I'd love any tips on places you've visited—our itinerary is still a work in progress.
We're two couples traveling with backpacks, using buses, boats, guesthouses, and homestays.
Thanks in advance!
Hi! I’d like to split my trip into two parts: 15 days in Phuket and 15 days in Krabi. Do you know if I can rent a car and drop it off in Krabi when I fly back to France?
Thanks for your feedback!
Have a great Sunday!
Martine
Hi, is anyone there in Flores right now? According to some websites, everything is closed and the situation is tough. But our guide says it's fine. Who should we believe? We're supposed to leave on September 2nd. Thanks to anyone in Flores at the moment!
Hi dear community,
I'm planning to visit Cambodia this winter, right after Christmas, for my first solo trip and my first trip to Asia. For two weeks (yes, I know it's short, but I really can't do more...). I have two main desires: Siem Reap and the countryside, the villages, the Mekong...
What do you think of this itinerary? Arrival in Siem Reap, departure from Phnom Penh.
SR: 5 days (1 day for arrival, 3 for the temples, 1 for the lake and its villages)
Kratie (stop on the way to Mondolkiri): 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days there)
Mondolkiri/Sen Monorom: 4 days (1 day of travel, 1 day there, 2 days of treks)
PP: 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days of sightseeing)
I think I need to cut one day somewhere if I travel from Saturday to Saturday or Sunday to Sunday. In Kratie, maybe? Or in PP? And I'll miss the boat trip that everyone recommends (SR-Battambang), but I don't see where to fit it in. Unless I do a PP-PP loop starting in the east, skip Kratie or just stay one night, then SR, then PP.
In my timing, Mondolkiri seems closer than Ratanakiri, which also tempted me a lot! Will it be too complicated alone? I'm thinking of using local guides or a small local agency for a nature and village getaway.
I've read that Siem Reap is very crowded between Christmas and New Year's. I could also do the circuit in the opposite direction. But I thought it would be easier to get familiar with the country by arriving in a touristy area—I might be wrong...
Thanks for your advice and opinions!
Hi everyone.
I’m planning my trip, and based on all the posts I’ve read, this country is amazing.
Of course, I’ve got a ton of questions for you.
Here’s a possible itinerary: Vientiane - Vang Vieng - Phonsavan - Sam Neua - Nong Khiaw + villages - Phongsali - Luang Namtha and the area - Udomxai - Huay Xai - Luang Prabang and back to Vientiane.
What do you think?
We’re planning to prioritize local transport—is it possible to do this loop?
We’d also love to go kayaking, but I’m not sure if the season’s right or where the best spot is.
For trekking—I read that Phongsali is the most authentic spot to visit villages and see wildlife. Do you know of a reliable agency and a guesthouse with reasonable prices?
Is it worth taking a slow boat for a stretch on the Mekong, and if so, which route?
For accommodations, is it better to book through Booking.com and Agoda or look when we arrive?
Are mosquitoes bad in Laos, and should we take malaria prophylaxis?
What’s the average daily budget (accommodation, food, visits)?
Is renting scooters a good option for exploring towns, and if so, which ones?
From what I’ve read, it’s best to carry cash—euros or dollars? Is it risky to walk around with that much cash?
I’ve still got tons of questions. Thanks to anyone who can help, and I’m open to all tips, info, etc.
Thanks again
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Vietnam in February, specifically Da Nang and Hoi An.
Does anyone know a French-speaking guide in the area?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
I’m planning a family trip (my wife and I, both 47, and our two sons, aged 5 and 12) to Malaysia for the last week of June and the first two weeks of July 2027.
We used to love road trips as a couple, then as a trio, but since our second child arrived, we’ve taken a break with "camping village" style trips.
Now feels like the right time to get back to our old habits, while adjusting the pace for the kids.
We’re craving Asia. We’ve been lucky enough to visit Thailand, Indonesia (Bali and Lombok), and Sri Lanka before.
Friends have raved about Malaysia, so we’re definitely tempted.
For those who know and love Malaysia, what would be a good itinerary starting from Kuala Lumpur, with a maximum of 3-4 stops? We’d like a mix of culture, nature, and relaxation (just to clarify, we’re not big beach fans). All of this without rushing, of course.
Hello,
We’re a family of four with two teens aged 16 and 18. We’re heading to Thailand this summer. We’ll arrive in Bangkok and plan to take a flight to Luang Prabang.
I’ve seen there are some great visits and excursions to do (temples, markets, waterfalls) and maybe even venture a bit north to places like Nong Khiaw, Muang Xay, Muang Ngoy, or Oudom Xay.
But I’ve also heard about the Bokeo region with the Gibbon Experience.
Since we won’t be able to do everything, I’d love to hear about your experiences, impressions, and advice on the two options I’m considering, especially since we’ll be meeting family in Chiang Mai, Thailand, afterward.
Option 1: A loop from Luang Prabang heading slightly north, then a flight from Luang Prabang to Chiang Mai.
Option 2: A few days in Luang Prabang, exploring within a few dozen kilometers around, then heading to Bokeo province for the 2-day/1-night Gibbon Experience. For this option, I saw on Rome2Rio that it’s possible to book a ferry trip on the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Huay Xay—they mention about 8 hours. But is that realistic? What type of boat is it?
Then, to get to Chiang Mai, there aren’t many options—bus or minivan—but how does crossing the border work?
Finally, for those of you who’ve been to Laos in August, what was the weather like?
We’ve already visited Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia during the same period over the past four years and weren’t really bothered by bad weather.
I’m starting a discussion about guides in the Mekong Delta because we’ve just finished our trip in this region and had a hard time finding a French-speaking guide. We had Thanh—she speaks French really well and travels all over the delta region, including Ho Chi Minh City. She’s super friendly and flexible. I recommend her wholeheartedly. If it can help someone...
Feel free to contact us for her number.
Hi everyone,
I couldn’t find any recent info on Kuching.
Can anyone recommend a hotel or guesthouse for under 100 RM that’s nice and affordable? No dorms, please.
Also, does it rain a lot in November, and is it still worth visiting Semenggoh or Bako?
We’ll be arriving in Phnom Penh this coming January and we’re thinking of starting our trip with a stop in Kampong Cham, then Kratie.
After Kratie, we’re considering heading toward Siem Reap with a stop in Kampong Thom.
That said, I’m not really sure how long the Kratie–Kampong Thom journey might take or how complicated it is.
Does this stop on the way to Siem Reap seem like a good idea to you?
If we don’t visit the Sambor Prei Kuk site, are there still any walks or sights worth checking out in Kampong Thom?
Silly question—backpack or hard-shell suitcase for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL trip?
I’m struggling to fit all my son’s and my stuff into the 70L backpack... and I’m thinking a suitcase would be easier, but I’m not sure if it’ll work for getting around.
Hi there,
I didn’t plan to return to Thailand this year, but my health conditions mean it’ll be the best place for me to stay between two trips to India. The tourism setup there is so well-organized that it’s the most "comfortable" country for a short visit. Thailand feels too sanitized for my taste, and there’s too much religion, Buddha, and the King, but it’s still the best option given how my health has been evolving. I’d considered two weeks in ThaTon for hiking, but I got too sick from the burn-offs during my trips to the mountains around Chiang Rai. So I’m not sure where to go this year. Definitely not the sea, touristy spots, or the mountains with burn-offs...
After a stay on Koh Phayam this coming November, I’d like to spend 2 or 3 days on Koh Phra Thong before heading further south.
Do you think it’s doable to leave Koh Phayam early enough to catch the 10 AM boat from Khura Buri to Koh Phra Thong? The next one isn’t until 4 PM, which would cost me a whole day.
I’m planning a trip to Indonesia, specifically Sulawesi and Java, in September for 10 days.
I don’t know this part of the world at all—any advice is welcome!
I’ll be traveling solo and would also love tips on meeting other travelers or locals.
Hello everyone,
Not long ago, I used to travel as a couple, but my husband has since passed away, and I’ve decided to set off again. The trip I took to Cambodia in January 2025 did me a world of good.
I’m now considering Thailand, a destination we never included in our plans because even 15 years ago, people said it was too touristy. Still, I’m thinking about the itinerary below, but I don’t feel up to arranging buses, trains, or guides on my own while I’m there. I’m looking for one or more drivers and have been in touch with an agency, but their offers are just copy-paste group tours that I don’t want.
So, if you have any contacts, experiences, or advice, I’d be so grateful if you’d share them with me. Here’s my rough plan:
Arrival in Bangkok
Ayutthaya (2 nights)
Kanchanaburi (2 or 3 nights)
Sangkhlaburi/Sai Yok (3 nights)
Sukhothai (2 nights)
Lampang (I’ve planned 3 nights, but that might be a bit much—it depends on what time I arrive in the city)
Chiang Mai
Chiang Dao
Pai
Chiang Rai
I was thinking about the Mae Hong Son loop—thoughts?
What do you think about staying overnight at the Golden Triangle?
When I look online, of course, I can find agencies that organize tours to national parks, etc.
I’m retired but in great physical shape. I’d rather go hiking than sit in hot springs with crowds of tourists who’ve all arranged meet-ups. I don’t want to spend a day at an elephant camp, and I don’t want to visit Karen villages.
I’d love to hear your advice.
Thank you all,
Hi everyone,
Could you share your thoughts on my 3-week itinerary?
We’re a small group (family + friends) of 12 people, planning to leave around January 21, 2027.
Here’s my itinerary:
3 nights in Bangkok
4 nights in Chiang Mai
3 nights on Koh Samui
3 nights on Koh Phangan
4 nights in Krabi
4 nights in Phuket
I’m also open to any great tips you might have...
Thanks, everyone! Alain.
Hi,
From Malacca to get to Jerantut, is it better to go back to KL and take a bus from there, or take a bus to Tampin and then a train? Any feedback on the "Jungle Train"? (duration, price, comfort, etc.). Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week family trip next summer with our three kids, who’ll be 8, 8, and 7 years old.
After some research, we’re leaning toward Malaysia to combine nature/forests and paradise beaches. The idea is to introduce our kids to the country’s culture, nature, and wildlife.
We want a great trip but without splurging on luxury options like high-end lodges and resorts. We’re looking for comfort with a touch of authenticity—basically, a good middle ground.
I’ve started putting together an itinerary and would love your expert advice and tips to help us build this amazing trip with our little ones.
Day 1: Departure from France
Day 2: Kuala Lumpur
Stay at a hotel near the airport or KL Sentral.
Just one night.
Day 3: Morning flight to Sandakan (Borneo).
Stay in Sepilok
Day 4: Sepilok:
* Orangutan Center
* Malayan Sun Bear Center
* Rainforest Discovery Centre
Day 5: Depart for Kinabatangan.
Boat safari in the late afternoon.
Day 6: Sunrise safari.
Jungle walk.
Evening safari.
Day 7: Final safari.
Return to Sandakan.
Flight to Kuala Lumpur, then to Kota Bharu (or overnight transit depending on schedules).
Day 8: Transfer to the port.
Boat to the Perhentian Islands.
Days 9 to 13: Perhentian Besar
5 full days.
* Snorkeling
* Hiking
* Turtle watching
* Wild beaches
* Relaxation
Day 14: Return to the mainland.
Bus or private car to Taman Negara.
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Flores and then Bali at the end of September.
We’ve already visited both but this time, once we’re in Labuan Bajo, we’d like to take a boat to the Komodo Islands to see the famous Komodo dragons.
I don’t want to sleep on the boat—just a day trip would be perfect.
Does anyone know a reliable and friendly provider to recommend?
Thanks in advance, and have a great summer!
Summer seems to be the best time weather-wise for Bali.
And since summer’s when we can take a long trip, let’s go for Bali... even though we know it’ll be *packed* with people!
So we’ll steer clear of the island’s south...
Our current plan (19 days on the ground, 7 stops):
- 4 Nights (3 days) in Ubud
2 days for rice terraces / activities (Tegallalang, Campuhan Ridge, Monkey Forest, Bird Park, coffee plantation, market (?), dance "pestacle," cooking class and/or spa)
1 day with a driver for the Temples (Pura Gunung Kawi, Tirta Empul Spring, Pura Mengening, Goa Gajah...)
- 2 nights in Sidemen (1 day for Pura Kehen + Batur Caldera + Pura Besakih and 1 day to relax in the rice terraces)
- 3 nights on Gili Meno (Rest and beaches) from Padangbai
- 2 nights in Amed (1 day from Padangbai with the Abang rice terrace and Tirta Gangga baths, and the next day a boat tour in Amed)
- 4 nights in Pemuteran (1 day for transfer and rest, 1 day to visit Kawah Ijen, and 2 days of snorkeling at Menjangan Island)
- 2 nights in Munduk (1 day with the Dayang rice terrace and the 3-waterfall hike, 1 day at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan)
- 2 nights in Jatiluwih (1 day in the rice terraces, and on the last day, we’ll stop by Pura Taman Ayun in Mengwi and Pura Tanah Lot before catching our red-eye flight).
Accommodations in homestays or hotels.
Transportation to be arranged on-site with the lodgings (?)
Boat to Gili Meno to book in advance (?)
Kawah Ijen excursion to plan ahead (?)—check with the homestay (?)
Thanks for your thoughts/comments to help us explore this destination...
After reading and researching, we're planning the following stops in Cambodia in January 2027:
- Phnom Penh
- Kampong Cham
- Kratie
- Siem Reap
- Battambang
- Kampot (round trip)
I'm wondering about the direction of these stops, which could also influence our international flights.
Either a round trip from Phnom Penh in the order above.
Or landing in Siem Reap with the following order:
This second option would save us the Battambang - PP - Kampot trip but means doing a round trip to Battambang from Siem Reap and placing the "highlight of the trip" (Angkor) at the beginning of our stay.
Hi there,
We’re planning to travel from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang next November.
We’d like to take a slow boat from Chiang Khong—or rather from Huay Xai in Laos—with an overnight stop in Pakbeng.
Could you let us know if the boat still leaves Huay Xai in the late morning? If so, what time roughly, and what’s the price for the trip?
Thanks for your help!
Alod
We (3 adults: 68, 65, and 25 years old) are just back from a short trip to the Philippines, and I’d like to share a little summary of our journey. First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who contributes to this forum about this destination and answers the questions of those who aren’t familiar with it. I should also mention that my comments are personal and don’t reflect anyone else’s opinions. Since I don’t have any literary or photographic talent, I’ll stick to the facts and share a few details about the sights, hotels, and restaurants.
Preparations:
We chose this destination in December and quickly booked our flight tickets (540 € with Turkish Airlines) for a departure on February 16 and return on March 5, 2019. We then contacted two French-speaking tour operators based in Manila, asking them to put together an itinerary based on our wishes (places to visit, type of accommodation) and our budget. We wanted to see the rice terraces in northern Luzon, the hanging coffins in Sagada, before flying to the Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, etc.), and the Taal Volcano, while limiting our nights in Manila as much as possible. In the end, we opted for Alize, whose itinerary and quote matched our request almost perfectly. Our exchanges helped us refine our circuit.
International flights:
The round-trip flights went smoothly. Turkish Airlines, while not at the level of Asian or Gulf airlines, does the job just fine.
Day 1:
We landed on time (6:15 PM) on Monday, February 16, at Terminal 3. We exchanged our euros (near the car rental counters), and I can confirm the exchange rate was very good. On the way to the St. Giles Hotel (decent and affordable for a transit night), we got our first glimpse of Manila’s dense traffic. The Makati district, where our hotel was located, offers a wide choice of restaurants, so we grabbed a quick bite to recover from the trip.
Day 2:
This day was dedicated to transferring to Banaue. Fortunately, we had a comfortable van and an excellent driver for this journey, which took all day (8 to 9 hours with stops). We got a taste of driving in the Philippines—and it’s terrifying. You wouldn’t want to drive on these roads. The first thing that struck us was the relatively good condition of the roads and the cleanliness (a change from other Southeast Asian countries). This impression lasted throughout our trip. Around 6 PM, we checked into our room at the Banaue Hotel (large, charm-free, but with a beautiful view of the rice terraces).
Day 3:
With the help of a local guide, we took a jeepney to Batad. And then—wow! The rice terraces form an amphitheater overlooking the small village. Under the sun, it’s simply spectacular and breathtaking! Even though we’re familiar with rice terraces (Sapa, Bali, Thailand, etc.), we were dazzled by so much beauty. We spent the day walking along the terrace walls. This place is timeless and fully deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. However, we returned to the hotel exhausted (due to our ages and lack of exercise). We had dinner with our driver at the Las Vegas restaurant in the center of Banaue. The meal was decent, cheap, and the Filipino owner played the guitar to accompany our dinner.
Day 4:
Today, our driver took us to Sagada. The mountain road offered spectacular landscapes (about 1.5 to 2 hours). Along the way, we stopped in Bontoc to visit the small but interesting anthropological museum. It features old photos and various objects from the Ifugao tribes, as well as a reconstruction of primitive dwellings.
We then went on a short hike in Sagada with a very friendly local guide who explained the region’s funeral rites. The walk started at the communal cemetery before reaching “Echo Valley,” where we saw the first coffins hanging on the cliff. We continued to the “Underground River” and a small waterfall, ending our journey in the “Lumiang Cave” burial cave. All in all, this day was very interesting. On the way back, we made a few photo stops.
In the evening, on our driver’s recommendation, we ate at the “Bistro,” a French enclave in the center of Banaue (good pizza, roasted quail, homemade fries).
Day 5:
Today was a transfer day. To limit fatigue and nights in Manila, our tour operator arranged a flight from Clark to Tagbilaran (Bohol), saving us 2 to 3 hours of driving. But to catch our flight, we had to leave very early: 5:30 AM. Our kind driver dropped us off on time at the airport. To use it, we had to pay a 150 PHP tax per person. The Philippine Airlines flight (15 minutes) left early and was far from full. Upon arrival, we were taken to the Loboc River Hotel, on the banks of the river of the same name. A very charming lodge lost in a tropical garden. We stayed in a stilt cottage overlooking the river. We relaxed a bit in the lovely pool. This place is really great—the staff is charming, and the food is excellent for a reasonable price.
Day 6:
This day was dedicated to exploring Bohol. The program was classic, starting with the tarsier sanctuary. We saw a few specimens in a small garden, each pointed out by a staff member. It was both good and disappointing because the animals were in pseudo-freedom in a small enclosure. Then we went to the “Chocolate Hills” and climbed 240 steps to admire the panoramic view of the hills—but by 10 AM, it was crowded. On the way back, we stopped at the butterfly garden, which was uninteresting: tiny, with few butterflies. We consoled ourselves by photographing beautiful flowers. To please our teen, we stopped at the Loboc Eco Tourism Adventure Park and crossed the river lying down, suspended from a steel cable (300 PHP). Finally, we had the traditional lunch-cruise on the Loboc River. It was a factory-like experience, and the meal was unremarkable. The only good thing was the singer on each boat and the lush vegetation. Afterward, we visited colonial churches and the cathedral, remnants of the Spanish presence, before returning to the hotel for a well-deserved dip in the pool. Note that for those interested, there’s an arena near the hotel where cockfights are held every Sunday—something Filipinos are passionate (if not obsessed) about.
Day 8:
Very early departure for the port. We boarded a *banca* in search of dolphins. After about an hour of sailing, we were lucky enough to spot around a hundred dolphins. Our boat then headed to the small and charming island of Pamilacan. After a walk through the little village, we came across locals traditionally building a boat. They told us it takes about a month to finish their outrigger boat. Then we had to choose our snorkeling spot between the coral garden, the fish park, and the turtle enclosure. Note that a fee is charged for each spot: 150 PHP per place and per person. It felt a bit like we were being ripped off, especially since the spots weren’t amazing—we’d see much better on Apo for much less. We had lunch on the island at one of the many small eateries (350 PHP per person).
Days 9 and 10:
On our return, we were taken to the Bohol Sea Resort on Panglao Island, where we stayed for 2 nights. It’s a small, recent establishment in a quiet corner of the island. It’s relaxing—maybe a bit too much. It has a nice pool and access to Danao Beach, but the view is blocked by a flotilla of boats. We didn’t try their diving school. The meals were good. If we had to do it again, we’d skip this stop to spend more time in Negros.
Days 11 and 12:
We took a fast ferry (Ocean Jet) from Tagbilaran port to Dumaguete and were taken to the Thalatta Resort, about 20 km away near Zamboanguita. We stayed there for 2 nights. Let’s just say it was our favorite. It’s a small place facing Apo Island. The rooms are simple, and the pool, nestled in a magnificent tropical garden, is fantastic. The staff is friendly, and the meals are very good. The hotel has its own diving center (snorkeling gear provided) and its own boats. We booked the Apo Island excursion: 1,350 PHP per person, including lunch. It was incredible: magnificent corals, colorful fish, and turtles of all sizes. The crew was endlessly kind and didn’t hesitate to dive to guide us to the best spots. In short, a perfect day. This site is ranked among the top 5 diving spots in the Philippines.
Since we were lucky enough to be there on a Wednesday morning, we explored the surprising Malapay Market, a 10-minute walk from our hotel. You’ll find numerous stalls selling vegetables, fruits, live or dried fish, and handicrafts. Enclosures are set up for selling livestock (calves, zebu, pigs). There are also restaurants. We were lucky to see two pigs roasted traditionally on a spit. There are few Europeans, and the people are warm. A great moment.
We left this beautiful place with regret because we didn’t have time to visit the island or go swimming with whale sharks.
Days 12 to 15:
From Dumaguete port, we took a short crossing (1 hour with Ocean Jet) to Siquijor Island to reach the Coco Grove Beach Resort. A beautiful hotel nestled in a spacious tropical garden. Several restaurants and bars, 4 pools. Despite the size of the place, it remains intimate. You can snorkel (corals and fish) right in front of the beautiful beach. We stayed in a very pleasant duplex suite. For those interested, there’s a spa and a diving center. You can also take the Apo Island excursion (offered at 1,950 PHP).
We spent our days relaxing between the pool and the beach. In the evening, the sunsets over Negros and Apo were stunning.
We booked an island tour with a comfortable tricycle from the hotel (1,500 PHP). The circuit was classic and allowed us to go around the island. We discovered beaches, the famous 400-year-old ficus tree with its enormous roots, and its equally famous foot bath with its cleaning fish. Then we visited the St. Isidore Convent before heading to the Cambugahay waterfalls and their four pools. The setting is idyllic, and the water is surprisingly good—we had a lot of fun swimming. We had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the island, where you can see Apo, Cebu, and Negros. In the end, Siquijor turned out to be a real little tropical paradise.
Since the hotel restaurants were expensive, we dined at nearby establishments: Fuego (clean, good—excellent raw fish—and quiet), Chekesch (louder), and the very pleasant Baha Bar, which brews its own beer and offers more refined cuisine.
Days 15 to 16:
We left at dawn to return to Dumaguete and its airport by ferry. We had breakfast at the Coco Grande Hotel, an annex of the previous one. The Philippine Airlines flight went smoothly. A driver took us to the town of Taal. We stayed at Paradores Del Castillo, right in the heart of the old town. It’s a charming old house with only 6 rooms. The various rooms are decorated with antiques—a real little museum. The garden is pleasant and opens onto the town.
It’s an old early 19th-century house converted into a hotel, beautifully arranged with 6 rooms in the heart of the city. The restaurant in the garden is very pleasant and offers a panoramic view.
We visited an old Spanish house before heading to the beautiful Basilica of St. Martin of Tours, one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the Philippines. A mass was in progress, allowing us to gauge the Filipinos’ fervor before we could visit. When we left, it was dark, and we could admire the illuminated building. We ended our evening by exploring the night market with its many fruit and skewer stalls. A nice surprise.
In the morning, we were taken to the shores of Taal Lake, an ancient caldera where a second volcano has formed in the middle of the lake, which in turn contains another lake. We boarded a *banca* to reach the island in the middle of the lake. This was followed by an uphill walk, made difficult by the high temperature (36°C) and the dust on the path. The dust was worsened by the many horses carrying (or bringing back) the less courageous. To illustrate the difficulty of the climb, the trail is marked by the Stations of the Cross and its 14 stations. We were panting while our guide trotted far ahead. Our effort was rewarded when we reached the summit and its viewpoints over the inner lake and the surroundings. The wisps of smoke seen here and there confirmed we were on an active volcano. Inside the lake, there are supposedly 45 small volcanoes, one of which emerged during its last eruption in 1911.
On the way back, we had lunch by the lake before returning to Manila and the Bayleaf Hotel, whose main merit is its location in the Intramuros district. In the late afternoon, we walked along the walls of the old city.
We had dinner on the hotel’s panoramic terrace overlooking the city and the bay.
Day 17:
Last day! Our tour operator joined us for a tour of the Intramuros district. He enriched the visit with comments on the history, geopolitics, and economy of the Philippines. We visited the Manila Cathedral, destroyed 7 times in the past (6 earthquakes and the 1945 bombing). It’s beautiful, and its stained glass is magnificent. We couldn’t enter the San Agustin Church, the oldest Catholic building in Manila. We passed by the memorial to the Battle of Manila, which claimed over 100,000 lives. We visited the area around Casa Manila, which was closed on Monday, and had a drink at Barbara’s cabaret, located in a historic house. A very enriching morning.
Then we went to the Mall of Asia, the world’s largest shopping mall, to buy some souvenirs (Kultura store) before being taken to the airport. We exchanged our last pesos at the buying rate right after check-in.
The return flight went smoothly. We regretted not being able to use the facilities of Istanbul’s new airport, as its opening was delayed by another month.
Finances:
In the end, we spent 1,640 € for the international flights, 4,200 € for the stay (hotels, visits, various transports) with the agency (whose professionalism we can only praise), and about 700 € for meals, tips, and souvenirs.
Summary:
Luckily, we had beautiful weather throughout our stay, with temperatures between 26 and 35°C. Discovering the Philippines was a wonderful experience. The diversity of the landscapes, the kindness of the Filipinos, the cleanliness, and the truly delicious fruits (especially pineapples and mangoes). We were never harassed, unlike in many touristy countries. On the other hand, the food, though generally cheap, wasn’t exceptional.
Since this country is so vast, we might return in the near future.
Though I’m not a specialist on this destination, I’m happy to answer your questions based on my experience.
So, my flight tickets have just been booked for a trip to Cambodia from November 4th to 27th, 2025.
I’ll be traveling solo and want to explore this amazing country while getting a bit off the beaten path.
I’m arriving in Phnom Penh and also departing from Phnom Penh.
My goal is to travel as much as possible by bus and scooter.
What itinerary would you recommend?
What are the must-do things?
I’m open to all tips and info.
Thanks in advance for your help and responses.
Just pointing out there are good hotels in Bao Lac, very clean unlike what’s said in those long, boring, error-filled posts
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