hi there,
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Thanks in advance for your help....
8 similar discussions in English
Preamble:
.
This isn’t about drumming up business for a new professional venture—just sharing, under pressure from eager Vf members hungry for juicy anecdotes, my 10-day trip to Marrakech with 10 friends.
I’d mentioned during the planning discussion for this trip ((https://voyageforum.com/forum/questions-excursions-autour-marrakech-d10685703/)) that there wouldn’t be a travel journal... And since I’m a man of my word—but also stuck with a nasty calf muscle tear at the end of the trip that’s keeping me immobile for 15 days (more on that later)—I’ve got some time to dedicate to this. So, after this preamble, off we go to the Medina!
.
Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...
Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
.Day 1: Friday, May 2nd – The Day the Group Split
Before we dive in, let’s talk about the trip prep. Among my friends, I’ve got a rep as the go-to independent travel expert (thanks to a few trips, some with this same crew). So, naturally, the task of planning this one fell to me—and I took it on gladly (you’re never better served than by yourself, right?). The prep and itinerary were hashed out over multiple meet-ups (excuses?) during shared meals at one another’s places, guided by yours truly. Travel style, accommodation, sightseeing—all decisions were made together, trying to balance everyone’s wishes over a good bottle (generic term, not numerical!)
So, a group of five—including me and my girlfriend—set off for Geneva at 3 AM that Friday, while the rest would join us on Sunday due to family or work commitments. We’ll skip the EasyJet flight—it was nothing special, just a means to get us there safely (which, in itself, is already a win). We landed in Marrakech at 9 AM local time. There, a spotless Dacia Logan was waiting for us, chartered by MEDLOC, whose impeccable service I’ll praise here (thanks, friends, for the tip!). My first challenge, after loading the suitcases into the trunk: reaching the riad booked for our first two nights as the advance team. https://www.astradamusmarrakesh.top/fr/
I was a little nervous about driving here—Marrakech’s driving reputation precedes it. The hiccup? While setting up Google Maps for the route, I accidentally added a level-5 difficulty and enabled pedestrian mode... Imagine a rental car stubbornly trying for over half an hour to navigate the Medina (the riad was in the north), cursing all the pedestrians in streets too narrow for the car, and having to reverse multiple times because “it won’t fit,” ignoring the many Marrakechis waving to signal the street was impassable (but what are they trying to sell me now? 🤪)... Until my co-pilot, holding my phone, asked if it was “normal for the route to be dotted on Google Maps?” Yes, it’s normal—pedestrian mode was on.... We’ll still be laughing about this in the nursing home in 40 years, but at the time, I was genuinely surprised by what driving in Morocco had in store for me—and for good reason! After fixing the Google Maps settings, we arrived more calmly at the private parking lot (90 dirhams per night) and then at the riad, where we received a warm welcome while our rooms were being prepared.
After freshening up, we crossed the souks for the first time to have lunch at Jemaa el-Fna Square, at Zeitoun Café, where we enjoyed our first couscous or tagine on its terrace. We’d return to Jemaa el-Fna that evening after a restorative nap at the riad, another late afternoon in the souk, and an evening at this famous UNESCO World Heritage site. This time, it was the restaurant Lafarmacie (you can’t make this up!) that won us over, despite the lack of a rooftop. I recommend this place to everyone—the prices are great, the welcome is extraordinary, and the food is excellent...
Returning after 11 PM, we learned the hard way that the souk has its own entry points and hours, and the path to our beds was full of detours and closed doors. Fortunately, we were guided by friendly locals who showed us the right way (in exchange for a fiercely negotiated tip each time...)
Hi there,
A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:
- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?
Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !
A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:
- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?
Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !
A big thank you to the VoyageForum members who shared their experiences with us! We spent 3 wonderful days at "La Kasbah la Palmeraie" in Skoura. Coming from Marrakech (a stunning drive after the Tichka Pass via Telouet and Ait-Benhaddou), our stay at the Palmeraie was pure bliss: Mohammed and Ghizlane’s warm welcome, delicious breakfasts on the terrace overlooking the palm grove (wood-fired bread, honey pancakes made by Ghizlane), and equally delicious and hearty evening meals shared as a family around a cozy fire. We felt right at home and learned so much about the local way of life. The excursions offered were always interesting and off the beaten tourist track—from there, we explored the Dades Valley and Gorges, the Almond Blossom Valley (gorgeous!), and the palm grove. The region is home to magnificent kasbahs, including our hosts’. A different way to "visit" Morocco!
Hello everyone,
I’ve been to Morocco about fifteen times, but I’ve never posted a travel journal here on Voyage Forum. Why? I have no idea… Maybe because this section was so active, with lots of stories and photos. I thought sharing my adventures in *al Maghrib* wouldn’t be very original. Today, this space feels quieter, so what if I tried to give it a little life back, modestly? With some help…
This trip will be different. From the start of my relationship with Richard, I was determined to introduce him to *my* Morocco. But he was a bit reluctant… He’ll tell you about our 2022 meeting, and I’ll illustrate it with my photos, just like we did with our India travel journal.
I’ve been to Morocco about fifteen times, but I’ve never posted a travel journal here on Voyage Forum. Why? I have no idea… Maybe because this section was so active, with lots of stories and photos. I thought sharing my adventures in *al Maghrib* wouldn’t be very original. Today, this space feels quieter, so what if I tried to give it a little life back, modestly? With some help…
This trip will be different. From the start of my relationship with Richard, I was determined to introduce him to *my* Morocco. But he was a bit reluctant… He’ll tell you about our 2022 meeting, and I’ll illustrate it with my photos, just like we did with our India travel journal.
Hello,
My daughter (22) and I set off to explore a bit of her grandfather’s homeland. We left on July 26 from Roissy and arrived in Rabat with Air France. We had a few hiccups retrieving our luggage—1.5 hours of waiting and a mini interrogation at customs about our host’s address (they asked for a reference) and questions about a Moroccan ID card I’ve never applied for. Next time, I’d better have it—dual nationals get extra scrutiny.
We headed to the ONCF station to catch the train to Marrakech. First-class tickets cost 195 MAD, with assigned seats and decent comfort… the catch? The train was delayed, so we arrived at 2:50 AM instead of 12:10 AM.
We chose the Ibis Gare, located between the ONCF station and the Supratours bus terminal. We booked two nights from France for 79.85 €. To avoid the premium-rate call, just dial the hotel directly—they’ll handle the reservation. I’d signed up on the Ibis website beforehand for a discount (free and comes with perks).
On-site, we added 44 MAD for the tourist tax (11 MAD x 4 nights). We skipped breakfast—too pricey at 6.50 € per person. The hotel has a nice pool and a pleasant setting. The shower seals weren’t perfect, but the bedding was comfy, the linens soft, and the AC worked (though it was noisy). We were overall happy with it.
We had breakfast and lunch at a café/restaurant right across from the hotel—affordable and tasty.
For phones, we bought two Inwi SIM cards for 30 MAD each and a 5 GB internet top-up for 50 MAD—more than enough for our 16-day trip. Later, we added two 20 MAD call top-ups. Total phone budget for both of us: 150 MAD.
Taxis in Marrakech: No issues. We always asked for the meter—if a driver refused, we’d just move on. No haggling for us!
Day 1: We visited the Majorelle Garden (70 MAD per person). It was beautiful and peaceful. We walked there. In the afternoon, we took a taxi to Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The constant solicitations were exhausting—I felt like a guard dog fending people off. The worst part? We got lured deep into the medina to some sketchy spot under the pretense of seeing "Berber tanneries"—"last day!"—then had a guy grab our arms, demanding 200 MAD. I offered 50 MAD max since we hadn’t asked for anything. When he insisted, I threatened to go to the police. He finally let go for the 50 MAD. We headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before returning to the square for the evening. It was lively but noisy, and I found the vendors *way* too pushy. We walked back to the hotel—an hour-long stroll that was actually really nice. We kept no more than 150 MAD in our wallet at a time. We stuffed ourselves with smoothies—they’re *so* good.
Day 2: We left at 8:30 AM for Tinghir with Supratours, arriving at 4:45 PM instead of 4:00 PM (lots of roadwork). Tickets were 130 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. We stayed one night at the "Retour au Calme" hostel—super cozy! 150 MAD for a room with a private shower and toilet. AC was an extra 80 MAD per night (not mandatory) but worked great. Phone: +212 5248-34924. Breakfast was 30 MAD, and they offer tons of options, including budget-friendly choices like a couch for 80 MAD per person with shared showers/toilets. Half-board and full-board are also available. Mohamed and Alexandra are lovely. I booked by phone and paid on-site—they even picked us up from the bus station!
We took a taxi to the Todra Gorge—a breath of fresh air! It’s stunning and humbling. You feel tiny there. Shared taxis cost 8 MAD per person (fixed price). The organization was impressive. To get from the city center to the bus station: 3 MAD per person.
Day 3: We left at 4:00 PM for Merzouga, arriving at 9:30 PM. Tickets were 80 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Houssein, one of five brothers running the "Auberge Océan des Dunes." We had a lovely room with a private bathroom and kitchen access. Two rooms are available in this unit for 190 MAD per night for two, including breakfast.
My daughter (22) and I set off to explore a bit of her grandfather’s homeland. We left on July 26 from Roissy and arrived in Rabat with Air France. We had a few hiccups retrieving our luggage—1.5 hours of waiting and a mini interrogation at customs about our host’s address (they asked for a reference) and questions about a Moroccan ID card I’ve never applied for. Next time, I’d better have it—dual nationals get extra scrutiny.
We headed to the ONCF station to catch the train to Marrakech. First-class tickets cost 195 MAD, with assigned seats and decent comfort… the catch? The train was delayed, so we arrived at 2:50 AM instead of 12:10 AM.
We chose the Ibis Gare, located between the ONCF station and the Supratours bus terminal. We booked two nights from France for 79.85 €. To avoid the premium-rate call, just dial the hotel directly—they’ll handle the reservation. I’d signed up on the Ibis website beforehand for a discount (free and comes with perks).
On-site, we added 44 MAD for the tourist tax (11 MAD x 4 nights). We skipped breakfast—too pricey at 6.50 € per person. The hotel has a nice pool and a pleasant setting. The shower seals weren’t perfect, but the bedding was comfy, the linens soft, and the AC worked (though it was noisy). We were overall happy with it.
We had breakfast and lunch at a café/restaurant right across from the hotel—affordable and tasty.
For phones, we bought two Inwi SIM cards for 30 MAD each and a 5 GB internet top-up for 50 MAD—more than enough for our 16-day trip. Later, we added two 20 MAD call top-ups. Total phone budget for both of us: 150 MAD.
Taxis in Marrakech: No issues. We always asked for the meter—if a driver refused, we’d just move on. No haggling for us!
Day 1: We visited the Majorelle Garden (70 MAD per person). It was beautiful and peaceful. We walked there. In the afternoon, we took a taxi to Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The constant solicitations were exhausting—I felt like a guard dog fending people off. The worst part? We got lured deep into the medina to some sketchy spot under the pretense of seeing "Berber tanneries"—"last day!"—then had a guy grab our arms, demanding 200 MAD. I offered 50 MAD max since we hadn’t asked for anything. When he insisted, I threatened to go to the police. He finally let go for the 50 MAD. We headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before returning to the square for the evening. It was lively but noisy, and I found the vendors *way* too pushy. We walked back to the hotel—an hour-long stroll that was actually really nice. We kept no more than 150 MAD in our wallet at a time. We stuffed ourselves with smoothies—they’re *so* good.
Day 2: We left at 8:30 AM for Tinghir with Supratours, arriving at 4:45 PM instead of 4:00 PM (lots of roadwork). Tickets were 130 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. We stayed one night at the "Retour au Calme" hostel—super cozy! 150 MAD for a room with a private shower and toilet. AC was an extra 80 MAD per night (not mandatory) but worked great. Phone: +212 5248-34924. Breakfast was 30 MAD, and they offer tons of options, including budget-friendly choices like a couch for 80 MAD per person with shared showers/toilets. Half-board and full-board are also available. Mohamed and Alexandra are lovely. I booked by phone and paid on-site—they even picked us up from the bus station!
We took a taxi to the Todra Gorge—a breath of fresh air! It’s stunning and humbling. You feel tiny there. Shared taxis cost 8 MAD per person (fixed price). The organization was impressive. To get from the city center to the bus station: 3 MAD per person.
Day 3: We left at 4:00 PM for Merzouga, arriving at 9:30 PM. Tickets were 80 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag. Upon arrival, we were greeted by Houssein, one of five brothers running the "Auberge Océan des Dunes." We had a lovely room with a private bathroom and kitchen access. Two rooms are available in this unit for 190 MAD per night for two, including breakfast.
I just got back from a week in Mirleft, south of Agadir, and I felt like I’d stumbled upon an "off-the-beaten-path" Morocco: a raw Atlantic coastline, cliffs, endless beaches... and that slow pace that helps you unplug within 24 hours.
We had a house with a pool (the perfect combo when the wind picks up and the ocean cools the air), and then we alternated between: - Wandering the souk and alleyways (local vibe, regional products, and the big Monday souk if you can make it) - Surf sessions / scouting spots (depending on the swell and wind, it makes all the difference) - Wild beaches + viewpoints where you can settle far from the crowds - Legzira at sunset: the orange rock, the deep roar of the Atlantic, and that natural arch that seems to hold "by magic" - A little detour to Tiznit (45 min away): medina, silver craftsmanship, and an unexpected blue spring in the heart of the city - The mandatory "reset": hammam + massage after salt, sand, and road trips
I especially noted a bunch of details to avoid hassles: when to go (wind/weather), how to get around (a car is pretty much essential), what to watch out for on the road at night, and even super practical tips for summer accommodations.
If you want the full article with all the practical info + must-sees (and our tips to avoid mishaps), it’s here: https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.blogspot.com/2026/01/que-faire-mirleft-au-maroc-en-7-jours.html
Happy reading and/or safe travels! :)
We had a house with a pool (the perfect combo when the wind picks up and the ocean cools the air), and then we alternated between: - Wandering the souk and alleyways (local vibe, regional products, and the big Monday souk if you can make it) - Surf sessions / scouting spots (depending on the swell and wind, it makes all the difference) - Wild beaches + viewpoints where you can settle far from the crowds - Legzira at sunset: the orange rock, the deep roar of the Atlantic, and that natural arch that seems to hold "by magic" - A little detour to Tiznit (45 min away): medina, silver craftsmanship, and an unexpected blue spring in the heart of the city - The mandatory "reset": hammam + massage after salt, sand, and road trips
I especially noted a bunch of details to avoid hassles: when to go (wind/weather), how to get around (a car is pretty much essential), what to watch out for on the road at night, and even super practical tips for summer accommodations.
If you want the full article with all the practical info + must-sees (and our tips to avoid mishaps), it’s here: https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.blogspot.com/2026/01/que-faire-mirleft-au-maroc-en-7-jours.html
Happy reading and/or safe travels! :)
Hi there,
In November-December, we’re planning a 6-week road trip in Morocco, spending two-thirds of the time south of the High Atlas and away from cities. We’ll be staying in gîtes, kasbahs, riads, and the like—no big hotels. Usually, we stay 1–2 nights in the same place.
Six weeks means we’ll need to do laundry at some point, so here’s our question: Can we generally count on finding a washing machine/dryer in these accommodations? Or should we look for a laundromat or *lavandería* (are there any?)?
Worst case, we’ll hand-wash with a tube of detergent, but we’d rather avoid that if possible…
If you’ve got experience with how laundry works in the area, we’d love your tips! Thanks everyone! !
In November-December, we’re planning a 6-week road trip in Morocco, spending two-thirds of the time south of the High Atlas and away from cities. We’ll be staying in gîtes, kasbahs, riads, and the like—no big hotels. Usually, we stay 1–2 nights in the same place.
Six weeks means we’ll need to do laundry at some point, so here’s our question: Can we generally count on finding a washing machine/dryer in these accommodations? Or should we look for a laundromat or *lavandería* (are there any?)?
Worst case, we’ll hand-wash with a tube of detergent, but we’d rather avoid that if possible…
If you’ve got experience with how laundry works in the area, we’d love your tips! Thanks everyone! !
