My partner and I are planning a 2-week trip to Goa from late September to early October. It’s sandwiched between a trip to Nepal (September) and our return home to Thailand. We can’t stay longer, but cutting it shorter wouldn’t be worth the effort or flight costs.

I’ve visited several regions of India in the past (between 2000 and 2020) and spent a total of about 4 months there. My only time in Goa was a few days in Palolem in 2007—I didn’t like it. I found the place almost sordid with all the crowds... not at all the India I love.

But I have an Indian friend with 2 or 3 apartments in a residence in North Goa who keeps telling me to visit. I’m tempted. But where should we go? I don’t want to rent from him because it’s expensive (high-end) and I don’t want to feel too dependent on him either.

After 2 days in Panaji (since it’s near GOI), I’ve booked 5 days in Mandrem, which I’ve heard great things about. This’ll let us explore the Arambol area. I’m hesitant to stay there longer—if we don’t like it or get bored after a few days, spending the full 2 weeks there isn’t ideal! I’m thinking of trying South Goa instead, somewhere between Benaulim and Agonda. The downside? All the rumors about the vibe in different spots—loud techno here, jet skis there, "paunchy English tourists" elsewhere, package tours everywhere... not to mention the expected influx of Russians and/or Israelis (I’ve seen this in other parts of India, Thailand, and Vietnam). Plus, accommodation options are way more limited in the south.

Basically, I’m leaning toward Agonda—relaxed but not too quiet or isolated. But there’s so little availability on sites like Booking and Agoda...

Any recent tips or advice from folks who’ve been to Goa lately? I’d really appreciate it, thanks in advance!

Hi everyone, we’re heading to Tamil Nadu and Kerala at the start of the year for 30 days. We did Rajasthan 12 years ago, but things change fast. I’ve read that to get a SIM card, you have to buy it at a shop and then go to the operator to get a number; you’d also need an Indian mobile number. Has anyone here had recent experience with this? For buses and trains, do you need to book them well in advance? Any tips are welcome—thanks in advance! Happy holidays to all, Philippe

Hi there,

I’m thinking of heading to Tamil Nadu and Karnataka in early 2026.

Two places I’m curious about: Tiruvannamalai (Tamil Nadu) and Kollegal (Karnataka).

For Tiruvannamalai, I’ve already found quite a bit of info on this forum, but the most recent posts are from 2018. Has anyone been there more recently? My plan is to stay for about a week, book a guesthouse, visit the big Shiva temple, Ramana Maharshi’s ashram, and the caves in the mountain. Any other spots in this town you’d recommend? Would you happen to know a nice guesthouse (preferably around 1500 rupees, doesn’t need to be near the ashram)?

As for Kollegal, I’m not finding much info. And I’m stuck on this permit issue for staying in the town. Can anyone fill me in?

Thanks for your help!

Hello, My husband and I usually spend a month in January/February in southern India. We end our trip in Gokarna and fly back from Vasco de Gama Airport in Dabolim. So, it might make sense to spend a few days in a nice, quiet spot in southern Goa. Do you have any recommendations? Thanks

Hi there! 🙂 Please, how can I get from: - PATNEM to GOKARNA - GOKARNA to UDUPI (or UDIPI) - UDUPI to MANGALORE - MANGALORE to KANNUR What are the different transport options, the price (if possible, otherwise no worries), and the approximate travel time 😉 Thanks so much to those who take the time to reply! Have a wonderful day! Sandra

Hi everyone,

I’m planning my next trip to India, and my first stop will be the city of Nashik. I’d like to stay there for 3 nights, maybe even 4, to really soak up the atmosphere. Could anyone recommend where to stay and also suggest some good hotels at reasonable prices?

Thanks in advance!

Charlie

Hi there, We're planning to spend 2 to 3 weeks in South India (Kerala) in January or February 2025. We'd like to use a travel agency to help us make this trip happen. Can you recommend a reliable agency that can tailor a trip to our needs? Thanks! 😊

Hello everyone,

Here’s a little recap of our 3-week trip to India (retired couple) in January 2024. This is our personal experience and how we felt at the time. This is the 7th time we’ve been to India, and after experiencing public transport day and night—and with age catching up—we opted for a more "chill" pace this time, prioritizing flights and taxis while slightly increasing our accommodation budget. Regarding that accommodation budget (double room), we chose a range between 30 and 40 €, and we didn’t really notice much difference compared to the lower range we used to book on previous trips (between 20 and 30 €). But prices have likely gone up since my last visit in 2018.

So here are some personal tips and opinions, good addresses, and others to avoid. Exchange rate: In January 2024, 100 rupees were worth about 1.12 euros (1 euro = 89 INR at exchange bureaus). To convert rupees to euros: X rupees divided by 89 = X euros. For simplicity, we divided the price in rupees by 100 and added about 10% to get the equivalent in euros.

Our itinerary: Mumbai/Aurangabad (Ellora and Ajanta) / Badami / Hampi / Goa (Agonda) / Mumbai Flight: With British Airways—very (too) short layover in London (2 hours in theory...) for the connection to Mumbai, but a 1-hour delay on the flight from CDG, so we had to rush in London with two shuttles to take and security to clear before reaching the departure gate. We had a 15-minute margin by speeding... same stress on the way back...

Mumbai: On the day we arrived in Mumbai, we took a flight to Aurangabad with Indigo. **Note:** Terminal change for this flight. Free buses connect T2 to T1. The flight was fine, even with a 2-hour delay...

Aurangabad: Accommodation: Hotel JP International (35 €/night): Large, "decorated" room with comfortable bedding. But the hotel is showing its age. The air conditioning is a bit noisy, and the faucets and shower have seen better days... Breakfast is included in the price with a buffet—it’s decent. You just have to ask for toast, jam, and eggs, as it’s mostly an Indian buffet... The rooftop restaurant is okay. The hotel is a bit pricey for what it is... The owner, a bit gruff at first, was helpful and assisted us with taxis for visiting the Ellora and Ajanta sites, as it’s hard to find taxis for those trips on the street—no travel agencies in this area. Restaurant: Le Great Sagar (on the main street): Close to the hotel, good food, and plenty of choices. Exchange: We struggled to exchange euros in Aurangabad. No banks exchange money (we tried five...). Only Thomas Cook does: Jalna Road near the Ramgiri Hotel.

Ellora: A magnificent site 25 km from Aurangabad. **Tip:** Arrive early (by 9 AM max) and visit the Kailasha Temple first—it’s the world’s largest monolithic structure—and it gets much busier later.

Ajanta: About a 2-hour drive. **Great tip for this visit:** Ask your taxi to drop you off at the Ajanta View Point. Not only do you get a beautiful overview of the cliff and caves, but you can also walk down gently to the site. The descent is easy with stairs and paths, and you approach the site with stunning views. Cross the bridge, and you’re there (start from the end, as it’s less crowded: after crossing the bridge and paying at the ticket counter, turn left and go to the far end to begin your visit). The taxi waited for us at the "official" entrance after we finished exploring the caves.

Badami: To get to Badami, we took an early-morning flight from Aurangabad to Hubli with Indigo (scheduled takeoff at 6:20 AM...) to arrive in Hubli in the early afternoon and find a taxi to Badami. We found a taxi quickly at Hubli Airport. About 2.5 hours (3,400 INR). Hotel: KSTDC Hotel Mayura Chalukya (38 €/night): A state-run hotel that’s a bit dated, located 15 minutes from the center but quiet compared to the chaotic main street in Badami. Large room, a bit dark, slightly worn walls, rustic bathroom... The air conditioning is very noisy. The owner was very friendly and helped with transport. The staff was also very nice. The hotel restaurant is decent, which saves you from going back "into town." A bit pricey for the quality, but it’s peaceful... The visit to the sculpted caves is worth it, as is a walk around the lake. The short climb to the top of the hill from the museum is also worth it—you pass through small gorges. A relaxing atmosphere in these places.

Hampi: Trip from Badami to Hampi by taxi (3,500 INR) – 3 hours. Booked through the Badami hotel, as we couldn’t find taxis on the street or at reasonable prices... Accommodation: Thilak Home Stay (33 €/night): Located in Hampi Bazaar, a small guesthouse with 4 rooms. Simple room with two single beds and a nightstand. The owner was very helpful, making our stay easier with services like tuk-tuks for sightseeing, laundry, bus booking to Goa, and a tuk-tuk to Hospet. A bit pricey for the room quality, but recommended for the owner’s kindness. It was hard to find accommodation in Hampi Bazaar through booking platforms, as they all offer places outside the city, several kilometers away—which is a shame. But we realized you can find places directly on-site. **You must stay in Hampi Bazaar**—the atmosphere changes from morning to night (in the evening, around 9 PM, go into the courtyard of the main temple in Hampi Bazaar, which turns into a huge dormitory—it’s impressive...). Restaurant: Archana Roof Restaurant: Small restaurant on the 1st floor overlooking a banana field with the Hampi rocks in the background. Very friendly welcome, quiet, and excellent thalis. The Hampi site is in a magical natural setting among temples, pilgrims, ochre rocks, and rice fields. We did a one-day circuit with a tuk-tuk to visit the main sites (1,500 INR). We also rented a scooter on the other side of the river (to avoid a long detour from Hampi Bazaar) for a day trip around the area. Some places we visited: Anegondi village, Durga Temple, Hanuman Temple (go early—it’s a climb...), Sanapur Lake. The accommodations on the other side of the river, called "Hippie Island," have been completely destroyed.

Goa (Agonda Beach): Trip from Hampi to Agonda: Booked a sleeper bus with two beds! (1,300 INR/person). Departure at 9 PM from Hospet, theoretical arrival at 4 AM (for us, it was 6 AM) in Canacona, then a 20-minute tuk-tuk ride to Agonda. Comfortable bus with real berths, but the many speed bumps made sleep difficult... The train would have been much longer and more complicated to reach Agonda.

Agonda: Accommodation: New Common Home (35 €/night): Business-like welcome. Decent and fairly large room, rustic bathroom. Breakfast included in the price—it was okay. We only booked one night to choose accommodation afterward, right on the beach. But we didn’t account for the Indian national holiday at the end of the week—everything was fully booked... We found Saxony (44 €/night) at the far end of the beach (left when facing the sea), but only for 2 nights—after that, it was reserved... Decent room, average bathroom, but a beautiful terrace facing the sea. Then 2 nights at Agonda Holiday Home Stay (36 €/night), not on the beach: Very average, bathroom in poor condition, almost no view—but it was all that was left... Restaurant: The Rhino for dinner (not on the beach): Excellent tandoori, chicken tikka, and masala. Great value for money. Cool and friendly atmosphere. Agonda is a beautiful, long, quiet, and family-friendly beach for relaxing, with lovely walks to take. Beautiful sunset!

Mumbai: Trip from Agonda to Mumbai: Flight: We chose Vistara because the departure was in the late afternoon, while Indigo offered flights very early or very late. Bad choice... because this Vistara flight leaves from Mopa Airport, at the very north of Goa state. And from Agonda, it’s a 3-hour taxi ride... (3,700 INR...) **Always check which airport your flight leaves from to reach Mumbai!**

Mumbai: Accommodation: Broadway Hotel Bombay (39 €/night): Very well-located hotel in Colaba, on a street perpendicular to the busy main road. Ask for quiet rooms... Friendly, helpful, and accommodating staff. Very small room with a tiny window and little space to put bags or move around... Small but clean bathroom. Mumbai is expensive for accommodation, and cleanliness often leaves something to be desired... Restaurant: Delhi Darbar, very close to the hotel on the main street. Good, clean, not too noisy... and good value for money. Sightseeing: Mumbai is a bustling city, but the traffic is completely chaotic, and the horn often replaces the brake... The architecture is quite unique and worth a look, with some must-see visits: Crawford Market and its surroundings... Null Bazar and Chor Bazar, where poverty and dirt are quite present... Mani Bhavan: Gandhi’s house in Mumbai, with a very special atmosphere... Balbunath Temple, with its religious fervor. The beautiful Jain temple (Walkeshwar Mandir), where the atmosphere is very different from other temples and full of serenity. The Dhobi Ghats, the laundry district—very impressive. For a few hundred rupees, a "guide" will take you through these washhouses and thousands of clothes. Banganga Tank: A basin surrounded by ghats with a village-like (but quite poor) atmosphere, where Indians come to pray. The dabbawallahs: Their departure around 11 AM and the transport by bicycle of hundreds of lunchboxes from Churchgate Station. **Note:** It’s not easy to find them—we almost missed them, as it seems to be disappearing. They’re on the other side of the road where taxis usually drop you off for Churchgate Station, under some trees. They’re recognizable by their white attire and a crowd. Few passersby seemed to know about them... All these visits can be done easily by taking taxis, which are really cheap—**as long as they agree to use the meter.**

So here are some great tips to share, knowing that every trip is unique, and India remains a magnificent, often disconcerting, elusive country that challenges you. It’s unlike any other country we’ve visited but so fascinating... Good luck with your preparations, and if you need more info, don’t hesitate! I really regret that the new 2024/2025 South India GDR only includes Mumbai for Maharashtra and nothing else... and nothing on Karnataka or Goa. These states don’t seem to be selling points for the GDR anymore... Guy

Hi fellow travelers! I arrive in New Delhi on January 5th, and this is the third time I’ve come across what turns out to be a scam (after some research outside of booking.com): dirty places, fake reviews, etc. So I’m starting to distrust booking.com because it really doesn’t seem like a reliable site (at least when it comes to booking hotels in New Delhi).

If you have a good place to stay (max 1500 € per night, and I don’t want a dorm) in New Delhi, I’d love to hear about it! :)

Looking forward to your replies!

Hi everyone, for my 6th trip to India, I’ve chosen Ladakh and Zanskar. I’m planning a 15-day itinerary with a driver (one week in Ladakh and one week in Zanskar). I’m looking for info and tips from people who’ve recently traveled to these regions—anything that could help me prepare my route, must-see spots (or not!), accommodation advice, etc. Is it necessary to visit all three main lakes usually included in traditional circuits (Tso Moriri, Pangong, and Tso Kar)? In the Nubra Valley, the Hunder dunes with the camels don’t really tempt me given the mixed reviews... What do you think? Big question about altitude sickness—I’ve read that you should take it easy for a full day before hitting the road. Is that enough, or should I plan an extra day? Is it easy and quick to get the Inner Line Permit for the regions where it’s required? Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hi, I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).

Thanks for your help.

Hi there,

I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!

Have a great day,

Virginie

Hey fellow travelers,

I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?

Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène

Hi, I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.

What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?

As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?

Thanks for your insights!

I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road? Thanks

Hi there,

We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.

After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.

Thanks in advance.

Hi everyone! 🙂 My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.

We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).

We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.

Here’s what we’re planning:

- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*

Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.

What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂

Hi everyone, Kerala experts (especially Marien!) In January, I’m planning another trip to Kerala. We’ll arrive in Kochi and travel up the coast by train to Gokarna. So I’m reaching out to ask if it’s worth stopping for a few days in any of the following spots (not all, of course—just one or two that are really worth it...). From what I’ve seen, few Western tourists stop along this coast, given how little info there is about it: Mahe, Thalassery, Taliparamba, Nileshwar, Bekal, Kasaragod I’m not mentioning Kannur because we’ve already been there, specifically Thottada Beach, and we’re familiar with the southern destinations (Trivandrum, Kovalam, etc.). Thanks for your replies! Anne

Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.

Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.

Cheers, Régine

Hello all my fellow globetrotters, I’m heading to Kerala this coming January. I was wondering if any of you have ever managed to visit the inside of the famous Padmanabhapuram Temple, which is off-limits to non-Hindus? I know there’s a way to request special permission to enter, but I could really use your insights.

Thanks so much in advance. Take care and enjoy exploring our beautiful planet.

Best regards, Régine

Hi, I’m arriving in Chennai on a Sunday at 1 a.m. and I’d like to know if the flower market in Georgetown is open Sunday morning? Thanks

Hi there, it's me again with more questions about Kerala!

I'm thinking of making the trip from Mysore to Cochin by private car (with a driver, of course) in one day. I'd love to get an idea of the price and travel time (and if you know a reliable agency).

Alternatively, maybe it's more interesting to do this trip by bus? I'm worried it might take much longer than with a private car. This will be my first trip to South India, and I'm not really sure about travel times or how easy it is to get around by local buses or trains. Thanks!

Marsyork

Hi there, I’m spending about ten days in Kerala, and of course, I’d love to see the backwaters (I’m open to all possible tips—I don’t want to sleep on a houseboat). My question is:

Is it doable to spend a good half-day in the backwaters while staying at Marari Beach?

Thanks!

Marsyork

We're looking for an English-speaking driver for our trip through Kerala and Tamil Nadu from 12/15 to 01/26. Thanks for your help

Hello everyone, We’re a couple heading off in mid-October for 7 weeks to explore Rajasthan independently, with an extension to Varanasi. We’re growing more skeptical about Booking.com reviews and would rather turn to fellow travelers for up-to-date recommendations on accommodations along our route. We’re looking for clean places—not necessarily luxurious—a good location preferably, and if there’s a special charm or character, even better. Budget-wise, up to 50 €, or more if needed. We’ve already gathered a few addresses from Solene and Aleph’s travel journals. Here are our stops—we’ve already got a place for the starred cities but are still open to suggestions: Delhi Airport* Alwar Bharatpur* Mathura Agra* Dholpur Karauli Dausa* Jaipur* Bundi* Kota Udaipur* Pushkar Jodhpur Barmer Jaisalmer Phalodi Bikaner Nawalgarh* Varanasi Central Delhi Thanks for sharing your tips and favorites!

Hello, I’m looking for people who’ve been very seriously ill or had major surgery in India (especially in Kerala). Thanks for sharing your experience.

Hi there. My one-month trip is evolving, and I’m figuring out how to spend 15 days in Rajasthan, then head to Goa for 5 days, and do a circuit up to Mumbai—all within a month. What do you think of Goa and the central-east region?

Hi there, my husband and I are planning to visit the maharajas' palaces in Rajasthan in 2026. We're looking for a fairly long tour (10 days or more). Do you have any tips on which palaces to visit, cities and places to discover, the best tour operators, and the best time to go? Thanks in advance for your advice and recommendations!

Hello, We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin. We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan. Thanks for your replies! Yves

Hi there. We’re heading to India at the end of December for a month. I planned an itinerary: Delhi, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Bundi, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and back to Delhi. Our driver told us it’s not possible because there are no roads. He’s suggesting the usual tourist circuit, which we don’t want to do. What do you think of my route? Any tips? Thanks, community!