January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
Here’s our third travel journal with photos, following Vietnam in 2012 and Southern Thailand + Angkor in 2013.
Once again, we’d like to thank everyone who brightens up this site with their experiences and tips. Every year, some parts of our itinerary are made easier or richer thanks to your contributions.
We hope our own story will do the same for other travelers.
**10 JULY 2014**
We booked our flight tickets back in September to get a better deal than last year. We were happy with the 1291 € price for two people from Paris—until mid-January, when several airlines started offering promotions we hadn’t expected for our travel dates. Next year, we’ll take the gamble and wait longer, hoping to fly with Qatar Airways, for example.
Fate had us flying with Indian Airlines. The Paris-to-Delhi leg was on a brand-new Boeing Dreamliner—obviously fresh off the assembly line. After a quick four-hour layover to stretch our legs, we boarded an Airbus A321 that looked prehistoric for the Delhi-to-Bangkok flight. Honestly, if the outside of the plane had matched the inside, we’d never have made it. Broken screens, shattered armrests—you name it.
As for the meal trays, we would’ve devoured them only after a week stranded on a desert island. The cabin crew didn’t win us over either. And we really didn’t appreciate the behavior, attitudes, or stares from most of the people we encountered during our layovers in Delhi.
This year’s experience has definitely put us off flying with this airline again—or even setting foot in India ever again. That’s just our personal take, but it’s clear.
Stepping onto Thai soil was an immense relief. After exchanging just a few euros, we took a taxi from the designated spot and had a completely different experience from last year: the driver was normal and efficient. So efficient, in fact, that we arrived at our destination much earlier than expected. A well-deserved tip, and it seemed to make his day.
We dropped our bags at reception and rushed to Harmonique restaurant, just 300 meters away, just in time for the last dinner service.
We’d talked about this place at length last year. We’d been looking forward to it for a year, but we only managed to nibble on some spring rolls because what we really wanted was a good night’s sleep. While quite a few customers were still around, four staff members walked through the dining area with two large trash bins from the day’s service.
They were clearly pleased with themselves and having a good laugh. It made us chuckle too—seeing something like that done so naturally, when back home, some people would’ve been outraged to witness it in a similar establishment!
A quick word about the Swan Hotel: we’re grateful to those who recommended it on this site and on their blogs. It’s quietly located in the Silom district, just steps from the river. We have fond memories of the giant, ultra-comfortable bed and the well-maintained pool. It was very peaceful, though we were there during a quieter season. At 30 € with breakfast when we booked (and around 20 € without breakfast now), we can’t imagine finding a better-suited hotel in Bangkok.
**11 JULY**
We couldn’t find an open bank and had to withdraw cash from an ATM. Now we know: July 11 is a public holiday in Thailand. It suddenly occurred to us that next year, we’ll keep some baht from our return trip to save time at the airport and avoid little hiccups like this.
We decided not to head straight to Laos and instead spent the day visiting Muang Boran, also known as Ancient City, about 30 km southeast of Bangkok.
There are plenty of ways to get there. We ruled out taxis—too expensive. Besides, we enjoy using local transport; it’s more fun. We took a taxi to Democracy Monument, then found the bus stop about 100 meters from the roundabout, on one of the avenues leading to it. Someone always points you in the right direction. We hopped on bus 511 for a long ride, with two major slowdowns at red lights. The same happened on the way back, as our route crossed busier roads. We told the driver our destination, and he let us know when to get off. No problem—someone already flagged us down 20 meters later to put us in a *songthaew* (a shared taxi-van) that took us straight to the site. The bus and *songthaew* fares were minimal. Already, the people around us were smiling, and we were smiling back.
The entrance fee has gone up: 700 baht. That includes bike rental, a tour minibus, and a boat ride on the river. We still hadn’t fully recovered from the flight, and with the heavy, humid heat, we opted for the electric cart instead—no regrets. Still, 150 baht per hour.
We had an amazing day, beyond our expectations. The park features full-scale or scaled-down replicas of Thailand’s main landmarks, along with countless statues and landscaped gardens. There are also reconstructions of a typical Thai village, a northern Thai village, a farm with animals, and a floating village.
Almost everything we saw was well-made and aesthetically pleasing. The whole place is absolutely worth the trip. We spent six solid hours there without dawdling.
Here’s a very incomplete sample of what we admired:
Visitors will find restrooms, restaurants, and a few shops scattered throughout the site.
On the way back, just cross the road using the pedestrian bridge about 250 meters to the left of the exit. Flag down a *songthaew* as it passes.
The whole day flew by between the visit and the commute. We still had time to return to Harmonique to try their famous crab curry. Once you’ve finished it, you think—life isn’t so bad after all.
We’re sharing this trip from July 2024—a pretty classic route for a first visit to Laos. An amazing country that’s still authentic and just starting to embrace tourism. Hope this gives some ideas to anyone thinking of heading to Southeast Asia!
You can check out our day-by-day adventure on our travel journal. There are plenty of photos there too.
Hi,
I’m arriving soon in southern Laos and the 4000 Islands, with plans to head to Cambodia next.
The latest news I got this morning (Paksé, La Boulange) isn’t great—the Cambodian border is also in a latent conflict with Laos for the same reasons as with Thailand...
So, what’s the best site to check for updates on the border opening? Since the situation isn’t stable right now and could change from one day to the next?
Hello,
We’re planning to travel at the beginning of 2026 (a couple) to visit these two countries (Laos and Cambodia). We’re looking for local travel agencies to organize our trip with a driver and vehicle.
For accommodation, staying with locals suits us just fine.
If any seasoned travelers have reliable recommendations, we’d love to hear them.
Thanks!
Best regards,
Lionel 1946
I’d like to explore the Bolaven Plateau in January with three older friends (a big loop). Could anyone share their feedback, especially about nice accommodations—even homestays? We’re planning to rent a car if possible, since my friends don’t have an international motorcycle or scooter license.
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Southeast Asia and would love to do a cruise on the Mekong. The thing is, I’m finding surprisingly little info on the topic—way less than I expected. Especially when it comes to prices, the few times I’ve managed to get a quote without doing a full booking simulation (and even then, I didn’t succeed), the costs seem way too high for me (500 €/night is way out of my budget).
Ideally, I’d love to travel the river cruise by cruise, country by country. 😇
But I’ve heard that even with an unlimited budget, it wouldn’t be possible—if only because of the dams in certain areas.
And well, my budget is far from unlimited... 🤪
Has anyone here cruised the Mekong on a modest budget but with decent comfort (so you’re not counting the minutes until you dock...)? If so, which part of the river? 😐
Does it seem feasible and reasonable to travel to Laos (or Cambodia) as early as January or February 2025?
I don’t have any precise information about the damage these countries have suffered.
Northern Laos, Thailand, and Southern Laos.
Arrival via Vientiane and transfer to Luang Prabang on November 2, 2025.
Depending on everyone’s availability, several arrival dates are possible: November 2, 3, or 4, 2025.
Luang Prabang, Pakbeng, Chiang Rai, Chiang Mai, Bangkok, Pakse. Return at your convenience based on your schedule.
Excluding round-trip flight tickets from France (or elsewhere) to Asia, the average budget is 25 € per day, including accommodation and bus transfers.
Looking forward to discussing this further, meeting you, and traveling together for a wonderful trip.
My name’s Stéphane, and due to a last-minute change, I’m looking for one or more companions to join me on a trip through several countries (Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia).
The full trip runs from early October 2025, with a return to France in early January 2026—about 87 days total, CDG-SGN <==> SGN-CDG.
You can split the trip into multiple legs depending on your availability.
The itinerary is set up as a big loop, starting in Vietnam, then northern Laos, Thailand, southern Laos, and Cambodia from north to south before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City to fly home.
Depending on your schedule, there are a few possible starting points:
- Early October: Ho Chi Minh City,
- Around October 20: Hanoi,
- Early November: Vientiane/Luang Prabang,
- November 15: Bangkok,
- Early December: Siem Reap, ...
You can return whenever works best for you.
Excluding round-trip flights to/from France (or elsewhere in Asia), the average daily budget is 25 €, covering accommodation and bus transfers.
Looking forward to chatting more, sharing details, meeting up, and traveling together for an amazing adventure!
My name is Stéphane, and due to a last-minute cancellation, I’m looking for one or more travel companions to join me in visiting several countries (Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia).
The full trip runs from early October 2025, with a return to France in early January 2026—87 days total (CDG-SGN <==> SGN-CDG).
It’s possible to split the trip into multiple segments based on everyone’s availability.
The itinerary is set up as a big loop, starting in Vietnam, then northern Laos, Thailand, southern Laos, and Cambodia from north to south before returning to Ho Chi Minh City to fly home.
Depending on availability, several arrival points are possible:
- Early October: Ho Chi Minh City,
- Around October 20: Hanoi,
- Early November: Vientiane/Luang Prabang,
- November 15: Bangkok,
- Early December: Siem Reap, etc.
You can return whenever works best for you.
Excluding round-trip flights from France (or elsewhere to Asia), the average budget is 25 € per day, including accommodation and bus transfers.
Looking forward to discussing this further, meeting you, and traveling together for an amazing trip!
I’m Stéphane, and due to a last-minute cancellation, I’m looking for one or more travel companions to join me on a trip through several countries (Vietnam, Laos, Thailand, Cambodia).
The full trip runs from early October 2025 until our return to France in early January 2026—87 days total, CDG-SGN <==> SGN-CDG.
You can split the journey into multiple legs based on your availability.
The itinerary is set up as a big loop: starting in Vietnam, then northern Laos, Thailand, southern Laos, and Cambodia from north to south before heading back to Ho Chi Minh City to fly home.
Depending on your schedule, several arrival points are possible:
- Early October: Ho Chi Minh City,
- Around October 20: Hanoi,
- Early November: Vientiane/Luang Prabang,
- November 15: Bangkok,
- Early December: Siem Reap, ...
You can leave whenever works for you based on your availability.
Excluding round-trip flights to/from France (or elsewhere in Asia), the average budget is 25 € per day, covering accommodation and bus transfers.
Looking forward to chatting more, sharing details, meeting up, and traveling together for an amazing adventure!
Hi,
During our stay in Luang Prabang, we're considering a 2- to 3-day trek, but we're torn between two options:
- Organized by an agency? Do you know any that offer what I'd call "authentic" experiences at "reasonable" prices?
- Going solo? Can you easily find public transport to get 80 to 150 km away from Luang Prabang without spending all day on the road, and hike to a few villages?
(Car rental seems quite expensive, and the driving conditions are unpredictable.)
Do you have any advice on which direction to prioritize from Luang Prabang? North, East, West, or South?
Hi there, We’re in Laos in March 2025,
does anyone know if it’s possible to travel down the Mekong from Luang Prabang to Vientiane?
Can you find a private boat? How long does it take?
Thanks for your replies_
I’m heading to Laos next spring, but I have a question about the Thai arrival/departure form. I’ll be flying PAR-BKK, then taking the train to Laos (so exiting Thailand), and later re-entering Thailand by train to catch my return flight. Do I need to fill out two forms in this case?
Hi there,
We’re planning to travel from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang next November.
We’d like to take a slow boat from Chiang Khong—or rather from Huay Xai in Laos—with an overnight stop in Pakbeng.
Could you let us know if the boat still leaves Huay Xai in the late morning? If so, what time roughly, and what’s the price for the trip?
Thanks for your help!
Alod
Arrival at Luang Prabang Airport: Got my visa on the spot in under 5 minutes, but it cost me $40 + $1 for some "processing fee" and a photo.
First ATM withdrawal of the maximum allowed—about 82 €! Luckily, I had euros on me because each withdrawal comes with a fixed fee of 30,000 kips (like in Thailand, where it’s 200 baht per withdrawal, but here you can take out up to 800 €!).
Then I took the airport taxi service for 100,000 kips per person. It’s a minivan that drops passengers (8–10) at their hotels. The ticket booth is right at the exit—easy to spot with a sign that says "Taxi Service."
I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5!
Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw.
About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough.
At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.
Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere.
I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!
I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.
Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.
Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!
Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops...
I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.
If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!
I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!
For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.
In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it.
I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small.
Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses.
The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded!
The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.
Luang Prabang
The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony.
In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.
Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!
After scouring the forum without managing to decide, I thought I’d ask for your advice!
Before becoming a mom, we traveled for a year from Iran to Indonesia, and now my partner and I are finally ready to take our first big one-month trip with our kids.
We’d like 2 or 3 places to visit, settle in, and explore the surrounding area.
We’re looking for a destination that’s fairly easy (since our kids aren’t always easy themselves), but I’m hesitant about Thailand (which I didn’t enjoy because it felt too touristy at the time).
I was thinking about Vietnam, which I don’t know at all. Maybe Laos, but spending a few days near a nice beach would be relaxing with two little ones full of energy…
We don’t want to rush through crowded, commercial sites—we want to take our time and discover beautiful places.
Hi,
I’ve read on various semi-official websites that you can pay for the 30-day visa at the counter at the airport by credit card.
Has anyone arrived in Laos recently (I’ll be landing in Luang Prabang) and can confirm this?
If not, which currencies are accepted?
Thanks in advance.
Alain
Hi there,
I’m so glad the VoyageForum is back up. Reading 'Montagnard74’s' Laos trip report (which I read yesterday) made me want to share my own (which I already posted a year ago on another forum).
Here’s a little recap of our 3 weeks in northern Laos, plus a few days in Vientiane.
By the way, we could easily go back to the north—there’s so much to see and do; probably in a few years.
This was our 3rd trip to Laos after having already done:
1st trip in 2012 (3 weeks), a quick overview:
Vientiane
Vang Vieng
Luang Prabang
Plain of Jars
2nd trip in 2017 (1 month):
Vientiane all the way to the 4,000 Islands via
Thakhek, Kong Lor, the Bolaven Plateau, Savannakhet, Pakse...
Some general info (2023):
For those who’ve already been to Laos: everything has gone up a lot—I think prices have almost doubled for transport, accommodation, meals... everything. But Laos is still a budget-friendly country for us.
As a couple, we spent 1,100 € for a month, all included (and we definitely didn’t skimp on massages :)).
Don’t trust the transport signs posted everywhere—at travel agencies, bus terminals, hotels... THEY’RE ALL WRONG (especially the schedules). They haven’t been updated since before Covid.
There are hardly any bikes for rent anymore, but scooters are easy to find everywhere. We switched our mode of transport toward the end of our stay: from bikes to scooters, which let us go farther. In Vientiane, we only saw one bike rental place, near Ong Teu Pagoda.
BCEL bank doesn’t charge a commission on foreign currency exchanges.
Using ATMs is expensive due to fees.
Outside Laos, Lao kip are basically worthless.
There’s so much inflation that I couldn’t find a single bank or exchange office willing to swap the kip we had left. So, don’t exchange too much toward the end of your trip.
Some little tips from our experience (2023):
The Muang Koua to Muang Ngoi boat still runs daily. At the dam, you have to get off and take a bus, then get back on the boat.
The boat from Muang Ngoi to Nong Khiew only leaves at 9:30 AM (don’t miss it or you’ll pay a lot for a private boat). From Nong Khiew to Muang Ngoi, there are at least two boats a day.
From Luang Namtha to Muang Sing: 4 to 5 buses a day, the last one leaves around 3:30 PM.
From Luang Namtha or Muang Sing to Nateuy or Boten (to catch the new train): 3 to 5 buses a day.
The new train is really hard to book—it’s often fully booked 48 hours in advance, even the local train (5 hours from Boten to Vientiane instead of 3 hours on the high-speed train).
(That makes it tough to travel day by day, which we love... too bad.)
For baggage checks: don’t bring anything flammable (sprays...) or sharp. My mosquito repellent (flammable but in a small plastic bottle) got through. Water bottles and a tiny pocketknife are okay. But it seems to depend on the station.
Some guesthouses prefer to be paid in dollars, otherwise the price is much higher.
If you’re entering Laos from Vietnam via Dien Bien Phu, you have to get your visa at the embassy in Hanoi—otherwise, you’ll be refused at the border (no e-visa or visa on arrival).
Apart from Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Muang Ngoi/Nong Khiew, there are very few tourists.
Some bus prices (in addition to those mentioned in my trip report) (with pick-up) 2023:
Luang Prabang to Luang Namtha: 320,000 kip per person, 9h
LP to Phonesavan: 250,000 kip per person, 7h
LP to Phongsaly: 450,000 kip per person, 13h
LP to Huay Xai: 420,000 kip per person, 14h
Train Nateuy to Vientiane: 400,000 kip per person
LP to Chiang Rai: 780,000 kip per person, 18h
LP to Hanoi: 900,000 kip per person, 24h
LP to train station: 50,000 kip per person
LP to airport: 100,000 kip per person
Vientiane from train station: 180,000 kip by taxi
Boats:
LP to Pak Beng: 300,000 kip per person, 1 day
LP to Houay Xai: 500,000 kip per person, 2 days
LP to Pak Ou: 180,000 kip per person, 5h
