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To the Top West End
In this time of general travel-journal scarcity, I’m stepping up to tell you about a far-too-short getaway to the Top West End, a local term for the very northern part of Western Australia, right on the border ( ;) ) with the Northern Territory.

As usual, I didn’t manage to keep it short, but this time I’ve got photos to go with it!

August 2020. Since the opportunities to explore the world are extremely limited right now, all we (R&X) can do is explore our own island! Well, just a part of it, because with the state borders still closed, we’re stuck in Western Australia (WA).

Luckily, we’re pretty fortunate because this state is huge: over 2.5 million km² (that’s more than four times the size of France or 1.5 times Quebec). What’s more, stretching over 20 degrees of latitude between the Antarctic Ocean and the Timor Sea, you’ll find climates ranging from Mediterranean to arid to tropical. That’s actually why we decided to head as far north as possible. Sick of the endless rainy winter in Perth, bring on the heat of the Kimberley... way up Nooorth!

Friday. At the airport, the main terminal was closed (not enough flights), so we ended up in the annex (where flights to the various mines usually depart from). There was no crowd at the gate, and in this huge, single departure lounge, empty seats were plentiful. Only three flights were listed on the screens for the rest of the morning: the first to Coondewanna (?), the second to Darwin, and ours to Kununurra (code KNX).

A cool breeze swept through the half-open corridors along the runways. At the top of the walkway leading to the Fokker 100 (the Airbuses and Boeings are now parked!), a flight attendant greeted us with a basket full of sanitary masks. We were actually the only masked passengers (the staff weren’t wearing them either). With zero Covid-19 cases in WA at the time, the only rule was to maintain social distancing—something pretty hard to do on a full plane!

It was also my first time wearing a mask—it felt weird, pretty uncomfortable, and after a while, painful behind the ears. I really feel for those who have to wear one all day, every day. The flight lasted three long hours, but luckily, I had a good book. From the window, I watched an endless expanse of salt lakes in all shapes and sizes—round, elongated, gray, white, sometimes blue and green—and an infinity of winding, capricious meanders, along with long straight lines that led nowhere. The last half-hour got more interesting as rocky, swollen formations and long, sloping plateaus appeared. Against the vast ochre landscape, green patches became more frequent.







Just before landing, rows of green fields briefly appeared, along with an surprisingly wide river—but we were already rolling down the tarmac. A few hangars, a myriad of small, stationary planes, and a tiny terminal topped with a sign: “Welcome to Kununurra.”







We wanted heat, and here it was—34°C the moment we stepped off the plane! We felt alive again and totally ridiculous in our jeans and sweaters. We quickly grabbed our suitcase and picked up the 4x4 we’d rented—more out of necessity, since only that type of vehicle can access the national parks we planned to visit.

Just four kilometers separated us from Kununurra, a town of 5,000 people founded in 1961 during the construction of the Lake Argyle Dam and the development of the Ord River Irrigation Area Scheme (more on that later). On the horizon, mountain ranges (a bit of an exaggeration, since we know Mt. Meharry, WA’s highest ‘mountain,’ doesn’t even reach 1,250 meters!) and closer to the road, a few irrigation canals cutting through stretches of bush, then a huge park overlooking a small lake lined with reeds.

A row of baobabs (yes, there are baobabs in Australia too!), a series of motels with immaculate lawns, a gas station, and there’s the main street leading to the town center—that is, the parking lots of the two supermarkets, the bottleshop, the pub, the Town Hall, the municipal pool, and the Tourist Office (already closed!), and at the next roundabout, another park, the Presbyterian church, and a few other shops. In short, two or three green blocks that you can explore in no time.

One road leads to the small industrial area and one of the town’s three or four campgrounds, while another heads toward the residential neighborhoods, which look just like the typical suburbs you find in any Australian city—except with tropical vegetation. We stocked up at Coles, an identical copy of the one near our place, and—surprise—the prices were practically the same.

We checked into one of the motels. The receptionist listed the town’s three or four restaurants, insisting that it’s always better to book a table. She recommended the Pump House, a bit outside town on the lake’s edge. “Best spot to watch the sunset, but hurry up.” she told us. It was only 5:00 PM!

When we got there half an hour later, the place was packed, and the sun had already disappeared behind a row of trees! Sure enough, we’d see a few days later that the sunset can be a stunning spectacle—if you wait a bit for the sky (especially if it’s cloudy) to blaze and reflect in the lake’s calm waters. A little disappointed, we headed back into town, where we easily found the other lively spot in town: the pub (nothing like an old English pub). Above the long L-shaped bar, several giant screens (thankfully muted) were broadcasting live footy, rugby league, etc. In one corner, players circled the pool table, while in another, customers were digging into plates of the day’s special. Instead of rooms, there were various patios where groups of friends and coworkers (easily recognizable by the fluoro vests they were still wearing) were gathered. We found a table under a mango tree—unfortunately, a little too close to the guitarist strumming his entire Country Music repertoire, complete with Keith Urban-style tremolos. Guaranteed culture shock!

Since it’s the custom here, we called the Country Club to book a table before the kitchen closed! The CC is the town’s—and even the region’s—fancy spot. Dark decor, modern furniture, dim lighting, and the air conditioning blasting. The twenty or so customers had taken refuge on the vast terrace, lit by torches. The view of the tall eucalyptus trees, illuminated by spotlights shifting from red to blue, was breathtaking.

The menu was minimal, but the grilled salmon was excellent, and the Pavlova (the meringue dessert Kiwis and Aussies have been arguing over since 1906) with melon and watermelon was absolutely divine.

It wasn’t even 9:00 PM, and we were already in bed. Had we already adopted the Top West End’s chicken schedule?!

To be continued... Journal dedicated to Attila
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March 2026 Photo Contest Theme: Metal, Metallic
The 139th edition of this contest is now open, and this month’s theme is: « Metal, Metallic».

From ore to rockets, wire to the Eiffel Tower—or in a pinch, even a self-portrait at the bottom of a spoon—the theme is broad enough that you should be able to come up with at least three ideas pretty easily! Sure, things might get tricky when it’s time to vote, but that could just be a sign of a successful contest, right?! But we’re not there yet.

Contest rules: You can post up to three photos, each in a separate message, clearly indicating their number (1, 2, or 3) along with the location where the photo was taken. Any explanations about your photos are welcome.

You’ll vote for three photos, clearly stating the name of the participant you’ve chosen, followed by the photo number. The first photo in your vote will receive three points, the second two points, and the third one point.

The winner will be the person whose photo earns the most points. In case of a tie, the winner will be the one with the most first-place votes—or, if still tied, the most second-place votes. Finally, if it’s a perfect tie, the winner will be the one who reached their score first. The winner will then have the pleasure of choosing the theme for the April 2026 contest and organizing it. Ties for any position other than first won’t be broken. Lastly, you don’t need to participate in the contest to vote. However, participants (and I hope there’ll be lots of you!) are strongly encouraged to vote!

Please only post contest photos in this thread, and starting Thursday, March 26 (00:01 Paris time), only votes.

Key dates: You can submit your photos starting today, Tuesday, March 3, 2026, until Wednesday, March 25, 2026 (23:59 Paris time). Voting will begin the minute after and end on Monday, March 30 (23:59 Paris time). Results will be announced on Tuesday, March 31, 2026 ... if all goes well!

A discussion thread for this contest is open HERE: The photorama can be found HERE
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January 2018 Photo Contest: "Laundry Day"
Laundry day...

... and once the clothes are washed, they need to be hung out to dry.

Show us washerwomen, laundry workers, "Mère Denis" types, or "Mr. Clean" figures—scrubbing, wringing, spinning. In a laundry room, at the washhouse, or by the water’s edge. In a tub, a wash boiler, or even in the river. Whites and colors all mixed together—soaking, sudsing, rinsing, and splashing!

Show us wet laundry, drying clothes... Clothespins on a line, socks and little (or big!) underwear flying in the sun, clothes hanging from windows, sheets spread out on the grass, outfits drying near the stove...

The photos can include people, but you can also just show laundry, tubs, bundles, modern laundromats, or ancient washhouses... Anything related to this age-old, universal chore—traditionally left to one half of humanity while the other half leaves their dirty laundry lying around!

I invite you to share your (clean!) images from around the world until Sunday, January 21st at midnight. Maximum of 3 photos per participant (😛), each numbered and posted in a separate message. A caption would be great... Voting from Monday, January 22nd at 00:00 to Sunday, January 28th at midnight (Paris time). Results announced Monday, January 29th...

Vote for 3 photos, assigning 1, 2, or 3 points. No half-points for this edition. The photo with the most points gives its creator the honor (or burden!) of proposing a theme for February’s contest.

In case of a tie between two or even three participants, I propose—a perk of my temporary role—a slight tweak to the rules for this contest:

Clause #10177: In the event of a tie, the winner will be the person who has never organized a contest before or who has fewer previous terms as organizer than their tied counterparts. (Read slowly if you need to ;-))

The images are here, with Mr. Clean at the slideshow controls... 😊 photos.app.goo.gl/n0avmXB1FEtsPOvH3

More words here: Chit-chat at the washhouse
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January 2015 Photo Contest: A Monumental World
Many of us longtime members surely remember the little frieze of monuments that used to decorate the top of VF pages.

Eiffel Tower, Statue of Liberty, Taj Mahal...

The famous must-see icons of architectural heritage!

Today, I’m inviting you to dig through your archives and share 3 photos of these international stars made of stone, marble, concrete, or steel.

I can already hear some of you protesting that this theme isn’t very original.

Well, it’s up to you to think outside the box...

So the monument doesn’t have to be the original. It could be its twin in Las Vegas, a matchstick replica made by Uncle Bob, a piece of jewelry, a gorgeous snow globe made in China, and so on.

The monument can be photographed from above, below, in the rain, as a reflection...

Deserted or swarming with visitors...

Montages are also allowed! 😉

In short, a classic topic that’ll become original thanks to your creative take.

Now, there are still 3 rules:

- No selfies (But a photo showing people taking selfies in front of a monument is allowed...🤪)

- Once a monument has been posted by someone, no one else can post it again. I don’t want to see the same thing 10 times...😊

- The theme isn’t about the monument’s originality. Please don’t post a photo of a monument known only to you or almost no one...😏

You can post your photos (one per message) until January 21, 2015, at 11:55 PM

Voting will take place from January 22, 2015, at 12:05 AM to January 29, 2015, at 11:55 PM.

During the vote, you’ll choose your 3 favorite photos, awarding 3 points to your top pick, 2 to your second, and 1 to your third.

Please clearly indicate the photographer’s name and the number of the winning photo!

For the rest, I’m using Cocottte’s rules:

The winner is the one with the most points. In case of a tie, the winner will be the one with the most first-place votes, or, if still tied, the most second-place votes. If there’s a perfect tie, the winner will be the one who reached their score first. The winner will then choose a theme for February’s contest and organize it. Ties for any place other than first won’t be broken.

You can vote without participating, participate without voting, or do neither. Slideshow

Finally, here’s the little off-topic link where all your comments and other expressions of good humor are welcome!
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Embracing Dawn: December 2024 Photo Contest
Hi everyone,

After my narrow victory over Herodotos (just one point ahead—I had a close call, even in December in the northern hemisphere!), I’m now honored to organize the next contest, the one for the closing year, whose results will be announced on the first day of the coming year. Out of affection for the poet with wind in his soles, who dreamed of ivory and setting sail, again and again, even in his final hours, I borrow the theme from the first line of a poem dear to me: I embraced the summer dawn.

So, as the year draws to a close, the theme will be: embracing dawn.

The verb here is just as important as the noun. More than just a subject about sunrises or that magical half-hour of pink light before the sun appears (a photographer’s nightmare: either I crank up the ISO and deal with noise, or I lug around a tripod, and say goodbye to spontaneity like a beggar on marble quays), this is about those happy little mornings—the thrill of joy in the soft light of the first hours, whether it’s a landscape, a person, an animal, a plant, architecture, or whatever else. What’s certain is that it makes you want to smile at the day breaking. Even if you go back to bed afterward.

Technical details (shamelessly borrowed from Ragamuffin, thanks!):

Participation Each VF member can submit up to 3 photos, until Wednesday, 12/25 at 11:59 PM, Milan time. Each photo must be posted in a separate message, with its number (1, 2, or 3). Don’t forget to add a little explanation (comment, location, etc.).

Voting: Each VF member can vote for the 3 photos they consider the best, based on their own criteria and the theme.

Voting will take place from Thursday, 12/26 to Tuesday, 12/31 at 11:59 PM, Milan time.

Selected photos will be ranked in order of preference: - 1st photo: 3 points - 2nd photo: 2 points - 3rd photo: 1 point

The winner is the author of the photo with the most points.

Results will be published on 01/01 (if I’m in any state to do so). In case of a tie, the number of first-place votes will decide. The winner will have the honor of organizing December’s contest.

For discussion, it’s here.

That’s all! Let’s welcome Dawn with rosy fingers, dressed in saffron...

Catherine
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Mimi and Maumau, Martine and DD Return! Or the Denver-Denver Loop of the 4 Friends
Hello! 🙂

In 2017, struck by western addiction, our first road trip gave us an irresistible urge to return, which we did from September 2nd to 24th, 2019, on a loop from Denver to Denver via Yellowstone. The westernmost point of this journey, which took us through the geographical center of the USA, brought us within about a hundred kilometers of Moab, which had been the easternmost point of our last trip.

We’ve been back for over a month now, and I realize I’m starting to forget some details—it’s high time I started my travel journal before my brain turns into Swiss cheese and lets everything slip away. As I mentioned in my last story, it’ll take me quite a while to finish, so if any travelers have specific questions, don’t hesitate to message me privately. Once again, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me (and there were many!) prepare our road trip, with a special shout-out to Disneydiddl, Hiacinthe, and Titou (ladies first) as well as Fred and Itat, whom I bombarded with questions for months and who always kindly and patiently gave me tons of great tips. It’s thanks to all of you that this trip was such a success. I was a little worried I wouldn’t recapture the emotion and enthusiasm of our 2017 trip, but this one was just as "Wow" as the last.

For those who don’t know us, let me introduce our little group. We’re four friends in our sixties (this time, everyone made it, which let us score some "senior" discounts...). We live in the Var region, have known each other for over 20 years, and this was our second trip together to this magical West.

Mimi (Michèle): always the smallest and the funniest. Thank goodness she was there to speak English! Maumau (Maurice): her husband, always with his white hair, his Gallic mustache, his humor, and his Southern accent. He drove every other day. DD (André): the one with the beard, with whom I celebrated our 41st wedding anniversary at Yellowstone. Our second driver appreciated having a peaceful mind since he’s been retired since July. Marcalamar (Martine): that’s me—still blonde with glasses, still talking a lot, and still terrified of messing up the organization of this trip despite all the hours spent on the forum.

Recognize us? Ha ha ha!!!! No, just kidding!!!! That’s us!!!

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August 2026 Photo Contest Theme: Religious Buildings
Since I don’t have time to come up with an original theme, I’m suggesting a broad, international topic: religious buildings around the world. Given how vast the subject is, I’d like us to focus on photos of exteriors—wide shots or details. Interiors, which are just as varied, could be the subject of another contest.

A few of my own photos, just to give you an idea:













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Trip to Thailand and Laos
Hello! 🙂

January 2026 Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).

In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
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All Over Thailand
You can post your personal photos in the following thread: https://voyageforum.com/forum/quelque-part-en-thailande-d10655574/

This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style. All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.

All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country. However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.

I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it. I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.

There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.



I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.

Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course. Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious. Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs. It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons. That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.

It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.

You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.

Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field. A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.

Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.

You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.

If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
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So where are they and what are they doing?
This catchy and somewhat mysterious title comes from several questions I’ve been asking myself.

VF has been back open for a reasonable number of weeks and months now. The number of visitors overall matches past averages, but the number of members online in the last 24 hours seems relatively lower than what we used to see.

Yet, to my surprise, I’m seeing fewer travel journals, way fewer messages, and way fewer questions. I don’t see many new registered users online, and I notice a number of members who are logged in but either aren’t participating or have stopped participating.

Something’s not adding up for me because, in my opinion, VF is still appealing, and I don’t see which other sites could really compete.

Was there a real break between pre- and post-Covid? Does it just take more time for some people to discover the site or learn that it’s active again? Do people now prefer quick consumption on sites like FB or others I’m not familiar with? Where have the site’s old-timers gone, and what are they doing with their time now? What’s really going on here?
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California! Nevada! Utah! Oh!
After my trip to Oregon in 2018 (see Travel Journal "Oregon and Only Oregon"), I vaguely intended to return to the West (the western USA, of course—the west of France is where I almost live) someday, later... with no specific date or plan.

November 2018, I stumbled upon a promotion for round-trip flights from Paris to San Francisco. Well, I *stumbled*—they must’ve collected some "data" on me to make sure this deal crossed my path. And it worked! My ESTA was still valid, and two days later, it was decided: May 13, 2019 (departure from Paris) to June 15, 2019 (return to Paris).

The travel style? Just like last year: low-budget trip, rental car, and accommodation only in campgrounds, with no reservations to stay as free as possible.

Exceptions? 3 nights in a youth hostel upon arrival in downtown San Francisco, and 1 night on the way back (right before flying) in Montara, near Pacifica—a spot that seemed well-located for driving back to the airport in the middle of the night.

Now, to sketch out the rough itinerary. Here’s what it looked like after the trip:

Westernmost point: Montara Lighthouse on the coast, 30 km south of San Francisco (California); Easternmost point: Zion National Park (Utah). Northernmost point: Reno (Nevada). Southernmost point: Spring Mountain Ranch State Park in Blue Diamond, near Las Vegas (Nevada).

Another view:



I’ll be spending 33 days in this little area! I’m a slow traveler.

Meanwhile, I realized that in some places I wanted to visit (Las Vegas and National Parks), it was better to book ahead. So, I added to my reservations: - 2 nights in a hostel in Las Vegas - 6 nights of camping in the national parks (2 at Zion NP, 2 at Yosemite NP, 2 at Sequoia-Kings Canyon NP). Between all these dated stops, it’s a choose-your-own-adventure from the ideas I found.

I’m also a slow writer—slow writer, slow traveler—so it’ll take me a while to wrap this up. I’ll start tomorrow.
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Collaborative travel journal for lovers of the American West!
Hi everyone!

So, I’m putting into action an idea I had two years ago... I’m inviting anyone who’s interested to help build a beautiful collaborative project—a shared travel journal!!!

The concept: one post =

a photo you’ve taken in the American West that means something to you and your thoughts on that photo or about it: where and when it was taken, the story behind it, why it’s special to you...

Grab your pens!!!! (And I hope this doesn’t flop, but if it does, at least I’ll have tried!!!)

And I’ll kick things off in the next post!
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August Photo Contest Discussion: Religious Buildings
Pressed for time due to a full house of kids, grandkids, and cats, I decided to go with a general theme. Everyone has photos of religious buildings, so architectural variety is guaranteed. Just a reminder—I’m asking for exterior shots only, either wide-angle or detailed views.

Phanom Rung, Thailand Wat Phra Keo, Bangkok

Abu Simbel

Quimper

Venice

Istanbul

Khiva, Uzbekistan
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Inside South Africa
Inside South Africa

The Burst Hose. The passenger is so impatient to arrive that the coachman whips a horse that barely tolerates the mistreatment. I can tell she’s gearing up for a kick, and suddenly, at full gallop, she stops responding. If I press the spur, she cuts out but accepts a half-pressed pedal. She pulled this stunt last year, right in the middle of the Kalahari Desert, and I can guess the trick: she blew a hose! An hour at a slow trot brings us to a Ford garage. A workshop manager, as sullen as he is efficient, has the necessary parts removed to reach the hose, then announces he doesn’t have the spare part and will need a week to get it. I suggest taking advantage of the access to make a temporary repair on the tear, but he refuses, arguing the pressure is so high that the patch would give way immediately—"It’s not a Testarossa, after all!" After reassembly, he refuses to charge us anything and advises us to head to the next town, 200 kilometers away—off we go for another four hours. Semi-trailers overtake us without mercy; I’m reminded of *Duel*. At the Land Rover dealership, we learn the part will take two working days to arrive, and it’s Thursday. I decide to have the hose delivered to the house without wheels—I’ll change it myself. Five hours later, climbing the pass in first gear, we reach the object of her desires. * Hide and Seek In Brittany, my neighbor is a taciturn, touchy fisherman. He’s anchored his old boat in the middle of the estuary that separates two departments and uses it as a storage space. It’s a jumble of nets, buoys, and traps. The old wooden vessel is falling apart, and the hull’s paint is nothing but a distant memory—so much so that the Maritime Affairs Directorate of his department orders him to remove it or repaint it. Asterix also runs a restaurant on the harbor, where he treats customers to his catch. One Sunday afternoon, we see him loading cooks, servers, and dishwashers armed with rollers, brushes, and paint cans into dinghies. Off they go for two hours of slapdash painting and laughter. Once the starboard side is done, everyone returns to prepare for the evening service. The port side will wait until the Maritime Affairs Directorate from the other department reacts. This story came back to me when I got home: the side visible from the road had been repainted, but the other side was left as is. * The Blonde, the Red, the White, and the Black Many workers are paid at the end of each week, but alcohol sales for takeaway are banned on Saturdays and Sundays. So, on Friday nights, the bars are packed, and liquor stores never empty—of people who are already full. Their limited means reduce them to cheap, harsh wines or bland beers. Yet, they still end up wasted.

* Seven In mainland France, you can easily raise seven sheep per hectare. In the Great Karoo, it takes seven hectares of sparse but tasty vegetation to feed just one sheep. Not to mention the energy spent moving around. Add to that the fact that a French sheep produces about one and a half lambs per year, while here, between droughts and jackals, it’s closer to 0.7, and you’ll understand why, with a 7,000-hectare farm—the local basic unit—a South African farmer’s income barely exceeds that of a farm a hundred times smaller in Brittany. This weekend, the annual agricultural show is taking place at the fairgrounds. Some come from far away, so a procession of pickups, trailers, and trucks loaded with sheep makes its way up the main street: we’re definitely in the Karoo. I expected a competition of lean, wiry ascetics, able to pass on traits useful to the environment, but I suspect these bodybuilder show animals don’t just graze on the bush and are doped with alfalfa. Besides, I caught a dealer red-handed with a bag of pellets. * They’re Not Dolls Ken is a professional hunting guide, working independently. When it’s not hunting season, he goes fishing for clients, mainly in the United States. He says Trump’s election—whom he slightly resembles, though younger—would be good for his business, but he doesn’t like Trump, nor, it seems, his clients much. He wanted to be a farmer, but in the post-apartheid context, taking over a farm was a gamble. His wife, who’s more beautiful than Barbie and Melania, silently agrees. * Neighbors That’s the problem with women: their *it girl* side. Within a year of her moving in, we got two new neighbors. One on the other side of the track, the other half an hour away (here, that’s *next door*). One only travels at the controls of his black helicopter, the other aboard his private Boeing 737. The first is a very wealthy farmer from the northeast of the country who’s expanding into the Karoo. He just bought two non-contiguous farms of 6,000 hectares each. I still don’t know what the owner of the farm in between is thinking. The newcomer plans to create a wildlife reserve for breeding purposes; our future neighbors will be giraffes, rhinos, and antelopes, including rare species like the Sable. They say he’s a man in a hurry, determined: when the municipality dragged its feet on his request to refurbish the public track that serves as our border, he just went ahead and did it himself. It was a historic farm, crossed by paths leading to other farms, home to a pond full of birds where water from the mountain ends up after the villagers have taken their share. That’s where the golf course I was about to become the 29th member of was located. Now, it’s all closed off, fenced, and lined with monumental gates. The Wild West in the Western Cape. Is it because his name ends in ‘-ski’ that rumors link him to Slavic mafias and advise against crossing him? The same rumors say he’s involved in the uranium market—well, there’s uranium in the Karoo’s subsoil. The second neighbor is a Saudi prince who just bought a modestly sized farm—3,500 hectares—but don’t think he’s a minor prince. He paid four and a half times the market price to get it! The farm had been in the same family for two centuries, and the owners refused to even consider selling. The prince’s agent—money, in this case, black gold—kept coming back every week despite repeated refusals, finally saying his client wanted this farm at any price. A price they were asked to set. And that’s how you sell your ancestors’ graves. There are plenty of huge farms for sale here, but the prince was looking for a property where he wouldn’t see any roads, tracks, or other houses or farms. He’ll come a few days a year to hunt. However, he’s annoyed: the runway at the nearest airport, two hours away, isn’t long enough for his private jet, so he’ll have to land in Cape Town, like me, and endure nearly two hours by helicopter. That’s how it goes in South Africa. I’d be curious to know what Julius Malema, leader of the EFF (Economic Freedom Fighters), who advocates the Zimbabwean model of land redistribution, thinks about it.

* Biko The autobiography of a journalist and politician of European descent, South African, is published this week. In 1977, this rookie got her editor’s permission to investigate the death in detention of black leader Steve Biko. The apartheid regime’s political police claimed he had died from a hunger strike. The bold young woman discovered that the medical examiners reported a slightly overweight corpse, and later, it was revealed that Biko had died from abuse, if not torture. Under pressure after publishing her investigation, Helen Zille, disillusioned, gave up journalism and turned to politics. She is one of the white South Africans who fought against apartheid, and it’s reassuring that some people have a conscience that transcends class or race. *

You Have the Watches... …we have the time. Anyone who’s worked with Africans knows this response they occasionally throw at us. Willem, the inconsistent gardener, couldn’t stand the observation: running around the place at top speed, even with a pitchfork over his shoulder, wasn’t getting the job done. So Jan replaced him. We share the same first name—no doubt we’ll accomplish great things. He’s known to be reliable, meaning he shows up for work, and he only speaks Afrikaans. We communicate like at the circus: thumbs up, thumbs down. Jan has the build of a bushman but the bone structure and features of a mixed-race person—multiple mixes. He’s a sprite, always moving, sometimes without purpose or destination (the journey is the path). I lose sight of him—it’s not exactly a virgin forest—and he reappears elsewhere, busy. Jan doesn’t understand wasted water—he must think the same of us trying to cultivate the desert. He’s a gardener like I’m a violinist, virtuosos of playback. After a very light lunch, he lies down on the ground in the shadow of the stables and falls asleep. If his arrival time in the morning is variable, it’s never before the agreed hour, but his departure time is unchanging: it’s 3 PM, no matter what. No point trying to fool him; he can count and shows me the fancy watch eating up his thin wrist. * Colours Veldrift, Oyster Catcher, Lobster Red, Namib, Dune, Lion's Den, Kalahari, Bush Fire, Karoo Dawn, Cape Fynbos, Safari Trail, African Pan, Bushveld Plains, African Queen, Karoo Drift. A bestiary? A herbarium? No, the colors offered by the country’s top paint manufacturer. All the shades of the continent from an armchair. * Pets She loves three mastiffs, a meter tall at the withers. Is it for their beauty? Their breed? Their deterrent power, because knowing these beasts exist, no one would dare enter her property without an invitation? A bit of all that, probably. She won’t say. She loves pets but likes other people’s less, especially the poor ones. So, she actively participates in the campaign to sterilize dogs and cats in the neighboring township. Just think, the poor things can’t afford to feed or care for them, meaning they can’t ensure them a decent life. She and others justify the pets section of the local mini-supermarket. Whether your pet is a puppy, adult, or mature, whether it likes fish or prefers beef (no one thought of a dog-based reference from the township?), you’ll find your happiness. While you order, many locals will only have access to the parking lot to beg. * Democracy in Africa

What would Tocqueville say about Democracy in America this fall? After the father, we had the son; after the husband, and by default, we might get the wife. No one else, really? Let’s not talk about France and its current vaudeville. A Ivorian academic believes African peoples aren’t ready for "Western-style" democracy (caricatured as a free T-shirt buying a vote). Does he know the same is true elsewhere, where many voters vote not for a vision, a project, or convictions, but to protect their own interests? Here in South Africa, national elections were held recently, confirming the ANC’s decline in favor of the Democratic Alliance (DA). Historically (since the end of apartheid) seen as the party of whites (who make up less than 10% of the population), it has managed to rally those disillusioned by the clientelism, incompetence, and corruption of Mandela’s unworthy heirs. The DA now governs five of the country’s six largest cities. In the neighboring township, long after the vote ended, ANC and DA T-shirt wearers cross paths courteously. Today, it’s different. The DA’s national leader is holding a rally in a vacant lot. A few hundred people are there, including a good third of children, three-quarters of them ragged. Not an ANC T-shirt in sight amid the smoke of braais and deafening music. Fewer than ten pale faces: the journalist I’m driving, a local official, and activists. A small convoy of limousines arrives—just four, fewer than any of President Zuma’s offspring’s private stables. The crowd stirs, flags wave, and ululations ring out. Mmusi Maimane is a light-skinned mixed-race man, towering over the assembly, which he gently parts, joining in the dances and posing for selfies. He’ll give his speech, half in English, half in Afrikaans, perched on a truck platform—the meeting’s cost must be bearable for taxpayers. A mediocre populist orator, no doubt, but skilled. Two hours later, in the evening, another gathering. This time in a historic town property. A hundred and fifty people, casual chic, all white except for three mixed-race individuals... and the DA President. A Rotary Club vibe: everyone the town has in terms of farmers, shopkeepers, and entrepreneurs has paid their dues to honor Mmusi Maimane’s visit. His admirers see him as a new Mandela or compare him to Obama; his opponents think he’s being manipulated, and his detractors call him a traitor. He’s under forty, intelligent, and his wife is white. The chance he’ll become President of South Africa isn’t zero. * Posh Port Out, Starboard Home. Sonja, who walks the desert at dawn, calls one of her acquaintances posh, meaning snobbish. She’s got a sharp tongue. Wealthy English people (not the ones sent to Australia as convicts one-way) traveling to India would book their cabin on the port side on the way out and starboard on the way back. That way, they had a view of the coast throughout the journey instead of the ocean’s emptiness—whatever Kersauzon says. I didn’t know that by choosing my seat on the plane, depending on the route and time, so the sun lights up the landscape instead of blinding me, I was being posh. * Cosmopolitan Wine Tasting A pale lookalike of Jacob Zuma, a painter teaching his art in Europe; an Antwerp writer in South Africa; a desert gardener with a surfer look; an Irishwoman teaching yoga in the Karoo; an Afrikaner passionate about world history; another, our host, up to his neck in wine; and two French observers—observed observers. Conversations flow, then bottles, just before some hosts leave. Recurring corruption scandals involving President Zuma and his inner circle. A Chenin Blanc. Napoleon, who could have changed the course of South African history. An unwooded Chardonnay. The snake, a puff adder, one found in her garden. A Sauvignon Blanc. The kudu hit by a car at the village exit, which didn’t survive. A Pinotage. The bloody Anglo-Boer War. A Shiraz named Down to Earth. * Little Patagonia A story of pressure or depression, temperature differentials, or perhaps an age-old war between the elements—almost every day at the end of the afternoon, as if tucking in, the wind rushes down the mountain and gives a free haircut. When it falls, you don’t know where, and you hope it hurt itself and won’t get back up. I’m going to build a mast on the house, hoist the sails, trim them, and sail across the desert—it will remember the sea. *

Meeting in the township.



Since a cover is needed (in black and white)...
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July 2026 Photo Contest Theme: Bridges of the World
The theme for this July’s photo contest is: Bridges of the World

Vasco da Gama Bridge in Lisbon

Here’s the definition of a bridge: “A structure, typically made of stone, wood, or metal, that spans a depression or obstacle (such as a transportation route or waterway) by connecting the two sides or crossing over the obstacle.”

Viaducts, aqueducts, and footbridges will all be accepted.

Millau Viaduct

To allow for as many original photos as possible, the bridge can be photographed from the side, below, or above—the main thing is that it’s the focal point of the image.

Bridge in the Algarve

Pont du Gard from below

Details are also welcome, as long as you can still recognize it’s a bridge 😊

Brooklyn Bridge

Practical details:

Participation: Each VF member can submit up to 3 photos, until Sunday, 26/07 at 11:59 PM Paris time. Each photo must be posted in a separate message, with its number (1, 2, or 3). Don’t forget to add a little explanation (comment, location, etc.).

Voting: Each VF member can vote for the 3 photos they consider the best, based on their own criteria and the theme.

Voting will take place from Monday, 27/07 to Friday, 31/07 at 11:59 PM Paris time.

Selected photos should be listed in order of preference: - 1st photo: 3 points - 2nd photo: 2 points - 3rd photo: 1 point

The winner is the photographer whose photo receives the most points.

Results will be announced on 01/08. In case of a tie, the number of first-place votes will decide. The winner will have the honor of organizing August 2026’s contest.

Photos that have already been nominated (1st, 2nd, or 3rd place) in another contest are not eligible to participate in this one.

This thread is exclusively for contest submissions. Any discussions or comments should be posted in the following thread: Here
Open
October 2026 Photo Contest: "Stay Covered"!
Hello everyone!

The September contest “Making a Living on the Street” was won by Philippebrg, followed by Xrctn in second place, and I, the happy bronze medal winner, get to organize October’s challenge.

It’s hot—really hot—caliente! Protect yourselves!

Parasols, umbrellas, sun hats, caps, shemaghs, tents, awnings, curtains, pergolas, sunglasses, sunscreen, trees, bits of cardboard... anything goes to shield yourself from Helios’ rays. Your photo must be taken in a context related to heat (a simple hat out of context won’t cut it).

The rules:

- Photo submissions until Sunday, October 25 at 11:59 PM (Paris time). You can post up to 3 photos, numbered and shared in separate messages, ideally with a short description of the location and the story behind it.

- Voting from Monday, October 26 at 12:01 AM to Saturday, October 31 at 11:59 PM. After the deadline, it’s too late! Please indicate the photo number, the username, and the points awarded: Photo #1 = 3 pts Photo #2 = 2 pts Photo #3 = 1 pt

- All VF members can vote (even those who didn’t submit photos).

- In case of a tie for first place, the winning photo will be the one with the most first-place votes, then second-place votes!

- The lucky winner will earn the admiration of all photo contest participants and the privilege of choosing the theme and organizing November 2026’s photo contest.

For discussions about the theme, check here.

Happy shooting!













Open
World Gardens and Parks – November 2025 Photo Contest


Good evening everyone,

So, it’s settled—the first idea (this book about the lush garden of a New York state parsonage, "this garden obsessed with the love this man had for his late wife." Reverend Cheney musically noting all the birdsongs, the water droplets in the watering can, the wind rushing through cloaks at the end of the 19th century) will be the theme.

Garden: A plot of land, usually enclosed, attached or not to a dwelling, planted with useful or ornamental vegetation.

So, private gardens, vegetable patches, herb gardens, botanical gardens, winter gardens with their lush greenhouses, the "hortus conclusus" of cloisters evoking the Garden of Eden, public gardens, and their extension into parks are all welcome. I’m sure I’ve forgotten some...

Photos can be posted until Monday, November 24 at midnight, following the usual rules: one per message, numbered from 1 to 3, with the location of the shot and, if you’d like, a few details.

Voting, where you explicitly assign 3 to 1 points to your top 3 photos, will take place from Tuesday, November 25 at 12:01 AM until Sunday, November 30 at midnight. The results will be announced on December 1.

Your turn! 😉

Catherine

PS: This thread is reserved for contest photos. For all other photos and conversations under the trees by the fountains, it’s here.
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Uttarakhand Trip Report
Hi everyone, I’d like to share some photos from my trip to Uttarakhand in June 2025. It’s a destination that isn’t too crowded, which I chose at the last minute last year due to the skirmishes between India and Pakistan. I had planned to go to Ladakh and Zanskar, but as a precaution, I changed my plans... Here’s a quick rundown of my itinerary: Delhi - Rishikesh - Uttarkashi - Gangotri - Haridwar - Devprayag - Ranikhet - Delhi. Throughout my trip, I only came across a few Western tourists, and only in Rishikesh... I was really surprised in Rishikesh, where I saw unbelievable traffic jams just to get in and out of the city! It was my first real glimpse of domestic tourism in India—when all the city-dwellers escape the summer heat for the cooler mountains... The crowds of pilgrims in Haridwar, coming to purify themselves in the Ganges on the ghats, were just as intense as what you see in Varanasi. Fascinating and... colorful! The small town of Devprayag is interesting because it’s located at the confluence of the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers, which form the Ganges. The spot is popular with pilgrims who come to purify themselves there. I made sure to visit the remote village of Gangotri, located on the Bhagirathi River. Just a few kilometers away, the river’s source flows from the glacier at Gaumukh (only accessible on foot after an 18 km trek). It’s an important pilgrimage site in India, as one of the sources of the Ganges. All in all, Uttarakhand was a wonderful discovery and gave me a chance to see new sides of India.
Open
Photo Safaris in Kenya
Back on the forum, I’m starting to write up two 3-week trips to Kenya in August 2021 and 2023. In 2021, Quynh and I traveled with Régis (Rjulie95 on VF). Our son joined us in Baringo for the second half of the trip. In 2023, we went with two friends who’d been dreaming of seeing wild animals ever since we got back from Kenya. We didn’t need much convincing to go with them!

The two itineraries are almost identical (well, when you love something...) but we did make a few tweaks.

- The first part of the trip was with a local driver/guide, Félix, who was recommended by Sylvie56. Sylvie and her husband Ben are Kenya enthusiasts—they’ve been there countless times, always with Félix... and for good reason! He’s fantastic!

- The second part was with Melting Pot Safari, an agency that adapted to our photography needs. Tony Crocetta, the co-founder (along with his Kenyan friend Simon Chebon), is a wildlife photographer himself.

Here are the itineraries for both trips, including accommodations:

In 2021: Day 0: Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 2: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 3: Amboseli / Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 4: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 5: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 6: Aberdares / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 7: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 8: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 9: Samburu / Nakuru - Merica Hotel Day 10: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 11: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 12: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 14 to 18: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 19: Maasai Mara / Nairobi – Roussel Guest House Day 20: Nairobi / Paris

In 2023: Day 0: Lyon / Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 2: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 3: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 4: Meru / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 5: Samburu – Riverside Camp Day 6: Samburu / Buffalo Springs – Samburu Simba Day 7: Buffalo Springs / Ol Pejeta – Sweetwater Camp Day 8: Ol Pejeta / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 9: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 10: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 11: Amboseli / Nakuru – Lake Nakuru Lodge Day 12: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 14: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 15: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 16 to 20: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 21: Maasai Mara / Nairobi / Paris

Here’s an itinerary—it’s not exactly what we did, but a combination of both.



Ready to join us on safari to see some wild animals?

Open
February contest theme: lakes and ponds around the world
Let’s stick with the water theme—it’s definitely the season (maybe a bit *too* much for some of those dealing with floods 😕). After the flowing waters (with varying energy levels), let’s take it easy with still waters:

Lakes (Annecy)

Ponds (near Moustiers Saint Marie)

Lagoons (Bacalar)

If you’ve got nice photos of a pond—or even a puddle—why not? Natural bodies of water only: no pools or fountains (reservoir lakes are accepted… because they often look like natural lakes ).

The contest rules are the same as always 😉: Up to 3 photos per member, one photo per post (a little explanation is better), and past winning photos from other VF contests aren’t allowed. You have until Sunday, February 22nd at 11:59 PM (Paris time) to post your photos. Voting starts Monday the 23rd at midnight—rank your top 3 photos in order (3, 2, and 1 points). Voting ends Saturday, February 28th at 11:59 PM. Results will be announced on March 1st. The winning photo is the one with the most points (in case of a tie, the photo ranked first the most times wins). The lucky winner gets to organize March’s contest 😎.

Dig into your archives…
Open
One or More Towers: December Photo Contest
I suggest we compete with photos of towers. No magic tricks or potter’s wheels—we’re talking about "tour" as in the feminine noun. So, a kind of tall building, round, square, or polygonal, or a high structure that could be metallic, or a flat-topped bell tower (campanile), or a high-rise building (building)... You can find them almost everywhere in the world and from all eras. The tower(s) must be the main subject of the photo. Examples: The first photo, which is Saint Mark’s Square (with the Campanile), won’t be accepted. The second one, where the Campanile tower is the main subject, will be accepted.



Have fun and surprise us! Photos of computer towers are excluded 😏
Open
September 2025 Photo Contest: I Signal, You Signal, We Signal – Get Your Signs Ready!
Hi there, 🙂

The point of this contest isn’t to photograph Mathilde or even to frantically click the "report" button on every post in a thread.

It’s to post **road signs**!

Whether they’re official or not...

Funny or serious...

Of all shapes, all colors, in all languages...

The rules are the same as usual—I’ll let you check out the previous contests for reference. 😛

Just a quick reminder:

- Max of 3 photos per person.

- One photo per post (preferably embedded 😉) with a caption and the photo number.

Submissions close on **Monday, September 22, 2025, at 11:59 PM Paris time**.

Voting starts on **Tuesday, September 23, 2025, at 11:59 PM** (and not a second before… 😇), Paris time, and ends on **Monday, September 29, 2025, at the same time** (still Paris time).

Results will be posted on **September 30, 2025**, sometime during the day!

Ready, set, snap!



(To discuss, it’s here…)
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Are we "bores" with our travel stories?
Reading an excerpt from "The Art of Boring People by Telling Your Travel Stories" by Matthias Debureaux first made me smile, then got me thinking… Are we "travel-bores" with our travel stories?

"Annoying is the one who, like Ulysses, had a wonderful trip. Because for every silver-tongued storyteller with marvelous tales, how many bores and nuisances… The traveler, drunk on grand images and magical encounters, has only one thing on their mind: pelting us with anecdotes, life lessons, and ideals. They’ll paint the most beautiful and distant Edens… the traveler has an endless pharmacy of stories. But nothing is designed to immunize us against travel tales. We should impose a quarantine on returning travelers. At least a dozen hours in a sobering cell. What’s the point? Months, years later, they’ll never miss an opportunity to reminisce. The evocation of their odyssey is a perpetual fireplace fire."

A provocative text, sure, but isn’t the person telling their travel story doing it mostly for themselves? Just to relive the joy of their trip? At friendly gatherings or with family, we sometimes have to endure the enthusiast… without necessarily sharing their passion for the destination!

The advantage of writing—and also of exchanges on sites like VF—is that only those who want to read a story do so… with the option to skip it anytime!

So, what do you think, authors and fans of travel stories published online?

Jean

P.S.: "The Art of Boring People by Telling Your Travel Stories" by Matthias Debureaux, Éditions Cavatines, 2005 Excerpts read in "The Taste of Travel" Éditions Mercure de France, 2008

P.S.: As a little wink… I still invite you to check out my latest travel story about a trip to the Aeolian Islands… see the story and photos by following this link: http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=4409520;page=unread#unread

I hope I didn’t "bore" you too much with this story 😉
Open
A long journey around Australia
Sunday, October 1st, 2023 Mulhouse-London We dumped our trash on our neighbors. We hugged, overflowing with emotion. Then Léa from Taxis S showed up. She knows us well. For ages, she’s been our driver. She was practically the official taxiwoman for the trips of the company where Dom and I met. She knew us when we were single! Almost teenagers! She knows everyone and fills in the biographies of people we’d forgotten. Across the street, while we loaded the luggage, S., perched in his window frame, waved a handkerchief. This wasn’t just any trip. Then things got tricky. It’s funny how fate sinks its teeth into our happy moments—there’s this whole intermediate phase where the poison seeps in unnoticed because you’re still in the dark... First, there was a delay on our flight to London. Dom immediately went on high alert, while I stayed calm. In my mind, we had two hours. I knew we had to go from Terminal 5 to Terminal 4, but two hours—come on, that’s plenty, right?

Bad calculation! Because those two hours were between the first flight’s landing and the second’s takeoff. But flights close at least half an hour before departure. Getting from one terminal to another means taking a shuttle bus. We waited for the one going to Terminal 4... until a young guy paid to direct people (who hadn’t seen us) informed us it was no longer possible to access Terminal 4 without going through Terminal 2 first for a connection! That really cranked up the pressure. We started installing a mental countdown with a programmed explosion at the end—guaranteed stress with added beads of sweat. The terminal bus was driven by a young Pakistani guy. We were *so* tense we bombarded him with our frantic, repetitive questions. “So? When are we getting there? What’s happening? Why aren’t we moving?” Our eyes were glued to our watches. The poor guy knew. Perfectly. Because it was obvious—no way around it. We weren’t going to make it. It was impossible. But Dom and I stubbornly refused to believe it. Then the kid stopped the bus. Me, hysterical: “What are you doing? What’s going on? Our plane takes off in... in... 4 minutes!!!! We’re gonna miss iiiiiit!” He wasn’t calm either. “You’ve already missed it!” He explained we had to cross a zone that required an escort car to clear a path through the runways. Impossible to do without. It’s forbidden. We had to WAIT (!!!). Then he got a radio call—he had to rush to Terminal 3 to pick up a passenger who was *super* tight on time. “Amir!!!! It’s RIGHT NOW!” they yelled in his already-red ears, thanks to the complaints of two hysterical Frenchies. Dom and I were in overdrive, hallucinating! We wanted to stop him, maybe even hit him to prevent him from turning around. He picked up the girl, whom we instantly hated like the most despicable witch. I turned on my data, searched for Malaysia Airlines’ number at Terminal 4, called, and actually got someone—quite a feat. A woman cut off my frantic rambling with a blunt “It’s over, the check-in is closed, the plane is about to take off.” I heard her but refused to accept it. I yelled, “We’re coming!” She shot back her monolithic “It’s over.” Finally at the doors of that damn Terminal 4, we ran—*really* ran—a marathon, Gate 6, security checks, pat-downs, “Take off your belts,” we asked questions, everyone seemed confident, we ran with one hand holding up our pants, the other clutching our belt, Gate 6—the room was empty. A girl was sitting there, calmly on the phone. We pounced on her. She calmed us down. Little by little, the light came back. Our brains rebooted. We finally understood it was over. We’d have to start crafting a new plan with the new reality. It started with a return to Terminal 5 to talk to British Airways, which took a good hour. With the same driver as before. We were alone with him. He took the time to apologize, to assure us it wasn’t his fault, that our problem had no solution, that nothing could’ve changed the outcome. At BA, we were exhausted. We were greeted by a handsome young man in a navy-blue uniform with gold stripes everywhere. We could’ve made a scene, but we were just relieved to find someone who’d take charge of our story. It was a minimal response, but it was *a* response. I suppose we could’ve demanded a business-class upgrade or a free trip, but we were just happy with a few vouchers for food, a hotel room with breakfast, and a little bag with plastic toys, a razor, toothbrush, hygiene products, and a T-shirt... Trinkets... But we were fine with it all—we said thank you eagerly because the essential was assured. He found us seats on flights tomorrow. *Tomorrow.* We were afraid to hope! We had the exact same flights but a day later. The same crappy times, but it was all good. We felt saved from the shipwreck, like survivors. - And what about the luggage? - .... !!!!

Monday, October 2nd, 2023 London - Kuala Lumpur

It wasn’t the Ritz, but with exhaustion on our side, we slept well. The continental breakfast was way better than we’d expected from an Ibis Budget. Still, it wasn’t enough to restore my joy for life. The course correction had turned into an arduous obstacle course. I scoured the car rental site every which way. Couldn’t reschedule the car. I’d done it before, but this time... Not to mention the laptop battery was complaining—the Brits have this quirk of making their power outlets incompatible with our chargers. Frustrated, I called them but ended up with a girl who declared herself incompetent and offered to have someone from Avis in Perth call me back—someone who’d supposedly handle rentals better. I decided to wait while taking a bath. Barely settled in, the phone rang. I was soaking wet, of course, and asked Dom to answer. Unfortunately, she’s known for disliking my phone, and in a clumsy move, she hung up. We got annoyed. She put dry towels on the edge of the bathtub, but—another false move—they fell in the water. The phone rang again... I completely redid the plans for the next two days, then transferred the files to my phone to consult them later offline. I plugged in my USB cable... *Plop!* The battery died abruptly—my PC shut down without any of the usual polite warnings! I looked around, hoping to find someone to strangle... Long story short, you can tell the day started under the worst omens. I was in a foul mood and spread my bad vibes to Dominique, who was initially in much better spirits... I called Mastercard, hoping to get a refund for the non-refundable night in Perth we’d already paid for. Same old song: “We’ll call you back”... Then... I’ll cut it short—buses, trains, lots of waiting... We rushed to reach the infamous Terminal 4.



We tried new options and convinced ourselves that a delayed departure flight is unrecoverable, no matter the scenario. We were furious that BA hadn’t bothered to tell us, leaving us to run around like rats in a burning house.

Tuesday, October 3rd, 2023 Kuala Lumpur-Perth

The flight was pretty nice. 13 hours, though. Dom and I were facing each other across the aisle. We could get up easily whenever we wanted without bothering anyone and chat when we felt like it. Besides, their chicken was amazing. They were kind enough to offer Dom a truly remarkable glass of rum. Good movies too, including the excellent *Prisoners* by Denis Villeneuve. At KL, during boarding, we developed a nagging worry about our luggage. We checked with some Malaysian Airlines staff. I sensed their hesitation. They made calls. Then changed their minds, giving us smiles and thumbs up...

Wednesday, October 4th, 2023 Perth

*Happy is the man who, like Ulysses, has had a fine voyage.* Well, for us, it wasn’t that. Finally arrived, we experienced the loneliness of tourists watching the baggage carousel spin, emptying of its precious containers one by one, until only a handful of travelers were left, staring at each other in disbelief. Without luggage, you’re kinda screwed. Not even a change of socks—our feet had been swimming in the same shoes for 3 days. No adapter, so no laptop. No toiletries. We could’ve cried! The lost luggage guy played his part. If you want compensation, fill out the disclaimer on the website made for that. And then, “Don’t worry, your luggage will arrive tomorrow!” “Don’t worry?!” From the start of the trip, we’ve been jerked around, fed lies. Tomorrow is the *absolute* last chance to get them back. Beyond that, we’d have to scramble a whole new trip. And lose a lot in the process! I have no idea how to go about it. Tomorrow... OMG... Tomorrow... We landed at 1 AM. Avis, the car rental place, opens at 6:30. Luckily, we found some decent breakfast. It cheered us up and gave us a second wind. Incorrigible, we started believing again! Well, then we just killed time. What else was there to do?



In front of Avis’s little shack, we were freezing. We’d been there since dawn. The girl who showed up, a Latina, immediately saw us as a nuisance who’d ruin her hopes of a peaceful start. Her face and tone were as unwelcoming as possible. You know us—it ended with hugs. She gave us a gorgeous, brand-new car! A hybrid with ultra-sophisticated features, all buttons you shouldn’t touch if you want to drive this thing without causing irreparable damage! We’re off! Driving on the left is easy at first. You think about it constantly. It’s counterintuitive, it takes effort. It’s later, when you get used to it and confidence sets in, that it becomes dangerous—old reflexes can send you into a wall. Anyway, the car and I immediately clicked.

In Perth, underground parking next to the hotel, friendly welcome—we ended up forgetting all the morning’s mishaps. Should we go sightseeing?

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