It's been 39 years since we last came back to Andalusia...

For this last week of March, we waited until the end of the "votes" in France to go soak up some sun in southern Spain. And spring is the ideal season.

Our itinerary was a very (very) classic loop: Seville / Granada / Ronda and the white villages / Seville (with the start of Holy Week as a bonus gift!).

We flew from Lyon with Transavia (no issues) and landed in Seville on Monday. We rented a car (Goldcar), drove for 3 hours, and there we were in Granada, charmed by its ZTL (limited traffic zone) that Waze made us discover in detail (a nightmare!). Our hotel: Hotel Monjas del Carmen (perfectly located and with parking).

The weather was overcast, but a little stroll through the Albaicín district was a must. In the evening, we had dinner at "Restaurant Arabe Ambar" to get into the Nasrid atmosphere—we recommend it!

Hi there,

Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.

It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected. Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel. I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability. So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.

I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:

Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras

Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya

Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat

Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott

Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou

To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog: From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations

Happy reading, and safe travels!

Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory? In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination). So, read on... or don’t .

Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).

This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.

We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less). This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro). We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call! Whose fault is it? Storm Thérèse’s! Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...

But even without Thérèse...

Saturday 21/03 Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia. The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down. It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.



We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter. We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.

It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier). So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours. We found a huge parking lot... empty. The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕. So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.

The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon. As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!

Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon! Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded . The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.

So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete. The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛). Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked! Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.

Hello everyone,

For our latest 3-week family trip (yes, the kids are growing up, and two of them are about to enter the working world), we’re heading to South America! For our first time on this continent, I had planned a classic 3-week loop in Peru.

But since we won’t be returning to this part of the world anytime soon, I thought: why not follow in the footsteps of Franck, aka Bibouns51, who, in 18 days, didn’t just stick to Peru but also added two of the planet’s most stunning landscapes to his itinerary... the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia and its neighbor, the fabulous Atacama Desert in northern Chile !!

So, I set about the tricky task of limiting the regions we’d visit in Peru to those we considered must-sees, to avoid rushing too much. The visit schedules were optimized, including several comfortable overnight buses that have the huge advantage of letting us hop between regions.

So, we’re off on a somewhat adventurous trip with three domestic flights (two on the first day and one on the last), two overnight buses for quick hops, several car rentals, the services of a few drivers to make the trip more comfortable, and even a tour operator for crossing the Salar...

Our main concern is altitude sickness, and we’re bringing Diamox, aspirin, etc., just in case.

Our second worry before departure was not even getting off the ground... Yes, for once, we’re leaving from France—Marseille, to be exact. The week before our departure, with the surprise air traffic controllers’ strike, I remembered why we usually prefer to leave from abroad, like Turin or Barcelona... In the end, it wasn’t the air traffic controllers who made us nervous but the early July wildfires that paralyzed the airport a few days before our departure. Fortunately, the fires were quickly brought under control, and on the big day, everything was smooth sailing!

Detailed itinerary (which changed on Day 1 due to departure hiccups): Day 0: Flight Marseille - Madrid - Lima PERU Theoretical and abandoned Day 1: Flight Lima - Cuzco and visit Cuzco (Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Cristo Blanco Observatory, Sacsayhuaman sunset) - Night in Cuzco Day 2: Taxi -> Chinchero - Moray - Maras Salt Mines - Ollantaytambo - Train to Aguas Calientes Day 3: Machu Picchu - Return train to Ollantaytambo Day 4: 2-day taxi -> Pisac - Tipon - Andahuaylillas - Huaro - Night in San Pedro Day 5: Palcoyo - Checacupe - Vinicunca - Return and night in Cuzco Day 6: Day in Cuzco (catch-up on Sacsayhuaman, San Blas district, Temple of the Sun) - Overnight bus to Arequipa Day 7: Rental car -> On the road to Colca Canyon, night in Cabanaconde Day 8: Descent to the bottom of Colca Canyon, night at Oasis Sangalle Day 9: Ascent from the canyon - Maca - Chivay - Return and night in Arequipa Day 10: Visit Arequipa (Santa Catalina Convent, La Recoleta Church and Monastery, La Compañía Church, Cathedral) - Overnight bus to Puno Day 11: Lake Titicaca - Night in Puno BOLIVIA Day 12: Shared taxi -> Road to La Paz, visit downtown La Paz - Night 1 in La Paz Day 13: Moon Valley and Las Animas Valley - Night 2 in La Paz Day 14: Day in La Paz - Night 3 in La Paz Day 15: Flight to Uyuni - Day 1 of Salar de Uyuni tour - Night at the edge of the Salar Day 16: Crossing the Lipez region and lagoons - Night near Laguna Colorada Day 17: Sol de Mañana CHILE Day 17 cont.: Pre-booked transfer to SPDA - 4x4 rental - Pukara de Quitor - Stargazing tour - Night 1 in SPDA Day 18: Death Valley and Moon Valley - Night 2 in SPDA Day 19: Miscanti and Miniques Lagoons, Salar de Aguas Calientes and its Piedra Roja, Tebenquiche Lagoon and Quebrada del Diablo - Night 3 in SPDA Day 20: Rainbow Valley and swim in the Puritama River - Night 4 in SPDA Day 21: Tebenquiche Lagoon - Bus to Calama - Flight to Santiago Day 22: Return Santiago - Madrid - Marseille

Day 0 - 11/07: Destination Lima

Our first flight from Marseille went smoothly to our Iberia layover in Madrid.

In Madrid, just after getting off the plane around 8 PM, and as we were walking through the terminal, we got a rude awakening!!

We saw the word "Cancelled" next to our flight number on the display boards. Thinking it must be a glitch, we checked another screen, but the system was stubborn, and the same dreaded word appeared !

So, we headed to the Iberia counter, where an agent confirmed that our Friday evening flight was canceled and rescheduled for the next morning. The reason? A breakdown and no replacement plane, even though we were in Madrid, Iberia’s home base!

To make matters worse, I remembered our super-tight schedule, planned to the minute, with no buffer day in Lima. Since I’m a bit phobic of megacities and hadn’t found anything appealing in the Peruvian capital in our guidebooks, we’d planned to leave Lima as soon as possible for Cusco, the heart of the Sacred Valley, to spend our first day there.

Bad idea, because we already knew the 4-hour buffer wouldn’t be enough, and we’d miss the domestic flight, which was, of course, non-refundable and non-changeable. So, we had to call LATAM from Madrid to find another flight for Saturday evening and negotiate a rate to recover some of our initial outlay.

After an hour on the phone with customer service, several endless holds, and three failed attempts to dictate our credit card number over the phone to a Spaniard speaking English with a thick accent, we finally managed to confirm the transaction, securing our new flight tickets for a moderate extra cost of just 150 € total.

At first, we were pretty bummed about losing a day and incurring extra fees to reschedule the domestic flight, but then, when we learned from an Iberia customer service rep that we’d receive the max compensation of 600 € per traveler, we even ended up grinning... because 3000 € in refunds for only losing the first day in Cusco? We’d sign up for that 10 times over!!

Iberia then took care of us, putting us up in a hotel where we had dinner before a short 5-hour night and an early morning departure. I took the opportunity to improvise a quick day of sightseeing in Lima, focusing on the Barranco and Miraflores districts.

Travel journal in Eastern Crete from September 8th to 29th, 2024

Our 21-day itinerary

Sunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.

Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!

Sunset over Mirabello Bay

Tuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.

Mirabello Bay seen from our terrace

Wednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.

Village of Kritsa

Thursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.



Spinalonga Island

The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.

Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.

Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.

Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.





Gorge of the Dead

The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.

Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.

Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!

Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.

Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.

Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.

View of the Ierapetra coast from Anatoli

Friday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.

Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!

Sunset from Anatoli

Sunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!

We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.

Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.

Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.

Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...

Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...

Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.



Agio Farango Chapel

A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.

Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.

Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.

Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.

Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €

Summer 2022 left me with a sense of unfinished business, so here I am back in Swedish Lapland for summer 2024, ready to attempt the Sarek crossing again—and this time, tackle part of the Kungsleden too.

After much hesitation, my partner Jean Marie and I decided to start with the Kungsleden, which is, from what we’ve read, stunning but very busy (and it really is!!), and finish with the wilder option: SAREK! This park is known as Europe’s last true wilderness—sounds like a dream, right?! The downside of this plan is that there’s no way to resupply in Sarek, and the Kungsleden isn’t exactly set up for long-distance trekking either, so we’ll have to carry a lot of food for the first part of the trip with Sarek in mind. Oh well, we’re motivated!

Our plan is to start in Abisko (the classic route), head to Vakkotavare (also classic, but with some variations to avoid the official trail and the crowds), then continue the Kungsleden from Saltoluokta. Before reaching Aktse, we’ll set off on an east-to-west crossing of Sarek (weather-dependent, since aside from the Skarja hut in the center of the park, there’s no shelter if conditions turn bad). At least we’ll be on the right side of the park to climb Skierfe and enjoy the jaw-dropping view of Rappaladen if we have to bail on Sarek.

All in all, that’s 17 days of trekking, including 1 rest day and 1 buffer day for weather delays.

So if you’re interested, I invite you to follow our fully packed backpacks!

08/03 - Abisko – 5km before Abiskojaure Some info (guides we used for prep, SFT map, sending food to Saltoluokta) 08/04 – 5km before Abiskojaure - on the east shore of Lake Alisjavri 08/05 – East shore of Lake Alisjavri – just before Tjaktja 08/06 – Just before Tjaktja – above the Salka hut via Nallo 08/07 - Salka – just past Singi + side trip to Djalson Lake 08/08 - Singi – Teusajaure 08/09 - Teusajaure - Vakkotavare (end of the first section of the Kungsleden) 08/10 – rest day in Saltoluokta + round trip to the Sámi village of Pietjaure 08/11 – Saltoluokta – Sitojaure 08/12 - Sitojaure - Skierfe - Sarek or no Sarek? 08/13 – Skierfe – somewhere above Rapadalen 08/14 – Somewhere above Rapadalen – above the Skarki hut 08/15 – Above the Skarki hut - Skarja 08/16 – Camping at Skarja 08/17 – Ruohtesvagge 08/18 – Ruohtesvagge - Padjelantaleden 08/19 – Padjelantaleden - Ritsem – End of the trek 08/20–24 - End of the trip (Lullea - Stockholm) And of course, the recap

Hi everyone, I’d like to share some photos from my trip to Uttarakhand in June 2025. It’s a destination that isn’t too crowded, which I chose at the last minute last year due to the skirmishes between India and Pakistan. I had planned to go to Ladakh and Zanskar, but as a precaution, I changed my plans... Here’s a quick rundown of my itinerary: Delhi - Rishikesh - Uttarkashi - Gangotri - Haridwar - Devprayag - Ranikhet - Delhi. Throughout my trip, I only came across a few Western tourists, and only in Rishikesh... I was really surprised in Rishikesh, where I saw unbelievable traffic jams just to get in and out of the city! It was my first real glimpse of domestic tourism in India—when all the city-dwellers escape the summer heat for the cooler mountains... The crowds of pilgrims in Haridwar, coming to purify themselves in the Ganges on the ghats, were just as intense as what you see in Varanasi. Fascinating and... colorful! The small town of Devprayag is interesting because it’s located at the confluence of the Bhagirathi and Alaknanda rivers, which form the Ganges. The spot is popular with pilgrims who come to purify themselves there. I made sure to visit the remote village of Gangotri, located on the Bhagirathi River. Just a few kilometers away, the river’s source flows from the glacier at Gaumukh (only accessible on foot after an 18 km trek). It’s an important pilgrimage site in India, as one of the sources of the Ganges. All in all, Uttarakhand was a wonderful discovery and gave me a chance to see new sides of India.

We traveled as a couple from October 20 to December 11, 2025, for our second trip to India and our first time in Rajasthan, plus Mathura and Agra, which are in Uttar Pradesh but right on the border, and a 4-day flight hop to Varanasi. Here’s a non-detailed trip report—just to share some info we found useful for other travelers, along with a few places and addresses we particularly enjoyed. First off, a big thank you to (I’m using usernames) Aleph240758, Solene40, Montagnard74, and Pagaljavab, who took the time to reply to me. Some of them even take the time to create detailed and illustrated travel stories. Since I only started planning the trip in mid-August, I didn’t have much time and used the trip reports on VoyageForum to build our itinerary. One more note: everyone travels differently and has their own preferences... so I’ll just share our personal feelings, which are obviously subjective.

We bought a physical SIM card upon arriving at the airport. The Airtel stand only offers one package for 500 rupees (just under 5 €) for 28 days, with 1.5 GB of data, unlimited national SMS, and calls—more than enough. Contrary to what we’d read, we asked for activation at the counter, and it was active within 10 minutes. The SIM worked well everywhere. Watch out—like in all airports, there’s a tendency to take advantage of tourists. The Airtel counter offers to exchange money directly, and we saw people paying 20 € for the SIM.

Since we arrived at night, the metro wasn’t running anymore. Plus, if you don’t know the city, we’d recommend taking a prepaid taxi—the price is fixed, and the driver knows the destination. Be careful: the prepaid taxi counter is on the right as you exit the hall, with large fixed signs above. Many counters put out a card on the desk saying "prepaid taxi," and even the Airtel stand tries to offer supposedly prepaid taxis, which is completely false. The price they ask for could be double or triple.

Here’s an app that was super useful for us In most big cities, we used "Rapido," an Indian app like Uber, to book auto-rickshaws (you can also book motorbikes or cars). You need a local phone number for this. The big advantage? The price is fixed, though you can still leave a tip. It tracks your ride, and most importantly, the destination is entered—way more practical than hailing an auto-rickshaw on the street, where the driver says "yes, yes," gives a price, and then doesn’t know where to go once you’re on the way. No need to enter a credit card. There’s also OlaCabs, which is similar, but we couldn’t get it to work.

For transportation between stops, we used government buses (RSRTC, blue buses), sometimes taxis via apps or by asking the guesthouse for visits and hard-to-reach places. This choice was really personal and made on the spot. - **Pros:** Buses leave almost every 30 minutes everywhere, giving you a lot of freedom. Every time we left from the bus station (bus stand), we had seats. Several times, we even got to sit in the driver’s cabin! The trip takes longer than a taxi, but not *that* much longer. The price is ridiculously low—1.30 € for 100 km for men, 70 cents for women. The bus stations are in the city centers, unlike many private bus companies. We met some great people. - **Cons:** It’s not exactly clean, and you’re obviously not in the comfort of a taxi. It’s not door-to-door service, so you need to travel light. You can’t stop along the way. If you need to catch the bus mid-route, it’s usually full, and you’ll have to elbow your way in without hesitation. For a short trip, I think hiring a taxi for the whole stay makes sense. Like I said, there’s no one-size-fits-all choice, but there’s no need to be apprehensive about taking public buses.

Here’s our route map, showing the number of nights spent at each stop. Compared to our initial plan, we slept one night in Barmer instead of two because we had time to visit the market in the afternoon, saw the Kiradu site the next morning, and didn’t see the point in staying longer. We cut two of the six nights in Shekhawati. After our flight to Varanasi was canceled, we had to stay in Delhi, which actually turned out well—it let us arrive in Varanasi earlier and more rested. The timing worked well for us, with longer stops in Bundi and Udaipur.

I won’t go into detail about each stop here, but I’d be happy to answer any questions. The accommodations and restaurants mentioned are the ones that had that little something extra, and the hearts (❤️❤️❤️) mark the sites we particularly loved.

Tijana Fort Palace - Accommodation and recovery from the trip

Alwar - Palace with museum - Moosi Maharani Ki Chhatri - Large reservoir

Bharatpur Accommodation: Iora Guesthouse, 14 €/night without breakfast—great value, cheap, good meals, close to the reserve Morning at Keoladeo Reserve by bike

Mathura - Ghats (Yamuna Ghats, Vishram Ghat) to visit in the evening - Market (Chattu Bazar) - Hindu temple Shri Dwarkadheesh dedicated to Krishna - Vrindavan temple Banke Bihari, ❤️❤️❤️ a very important temple with incredible religious fervor - Vrindavan Hindu temple Balaram ISKCON

Agra Accommodation: Shivalayaa - The Divine Abode, 16 €/night with breakfast on Booking—welcoming, clean, close to the Taj Mahal - Mausoleum of Akbar the Great (in Sikandra) ❤️❤️❤️ - Mausoleum of Itimad-ud-Daulah (mini Taj) ❤️❤️❤️ - Visit the Taj early in the morning (closed on Fridays) ❤️❤️❤️ - Agra Fort ❤️❤️❤️

Dholpur - Machkund Temple with its water body - Clock Tower Ghanta Ghar - Royal stepwell Dhaulpur Bavdi

Karauli - City Palace, private visit with a guard ❤️❤️❤️ - Shri Madan Mohan Temple for the puja starting at 5:30 PM ❤️❤️❤️ - Wandering the streets We loved this stop, which is off the main tourist trail, for its pleasant atmosphere

Bhandarej This is a stop as a starting point to visit the Chand Baori stepwell in Abhaneri ❤️❤️❤️ Accommodation: Bhadrawati Palace, 53 €/night with breakfast in Bhandarej—nice, an old palace, warm welcome, booked via Hotels.com We were the only guests and had dinner with the current manager, the grandson of the Maharaja. There’s a pretty stepwell in the village, and we visited a tiny neighborhood temple where we were invited to join in the singing and dancing. Walking through the market was really enjoyable because of the kindness of the locals, who aren’t used to tourism ❤️❤️❤️

Jaipur - Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) - Jal Mahal - Gaitore Ki Chhatriyan ❤️❤️❤️ - Amber Fort ❤️❤️❤️ - Panna Meena Ka Kund stepwell - Galta Ji Temple (Monkey Temple) ❤️❤️❤️ - Bagru, 33 km away: visit to a fabric printing workshop with block prints (I’d noted some addresses on Google Maps). The first workshop wasn’t very welcoming and had no workers because of the humid weather. We were lucky to find another, more welcoming workshop. When the sun came out, the three female workers arrived and started their work—it was a great visit ❤️❤️❤️.

Bundi Accommodation: Hotel Bundi Inn, 25 €/night with breakfast—lovely room in a haveli, good meals with a rooftop view of the fort - Garh Palace Don’t miss: at the exit of the palace, to the left, you can access a beautiful garden with a pool and, at the back, a large hall called Chitrashala ❤️❤️❤️ - Raniji Ki Baori ❤️❤️❤️ - Nahar Dhunk Ki Baori - Chaurasi Khambun Ki Chhatri (cenotaph with 84 pillars) - Ksar Bagh, an interesting set of royal cenotaphs at the end of Jait Sagar Lake. On the other hand, we could’ve skipped Sukh Mahal and its museum. Bundi is still pleasant but is no longer a secret spot.

Let’s be clear—it was a fantastic time to visit, and Jordan is an amazing country! 100% sunshine and temperatures between 25 and 35°C, depending on the altitude. No stress at all: Jordanians live up to their reputation as a charming, helpful, and fun-loving people. No hassles, no pushy sales—just pure joy sharing time and laughter with them. Over 11 days, we intentionally skipped the north to spend more time in Petra, Wadi Rum, Dana, and diving in Aqaba. No regrets whatsoever 😄 Practical tips at the end of the travel journal.

Road trip: Arrived at 10 PM (Nantes-Frankfurt/Amman in under 9 hours). Spent the night near the airport.

Day 1: Left at 8 AM for Mount Nebo and the Dead Sea Center—picnic in the middle of the lovely Wadi Himara (great spot, 2-hour round trip—thanks to the GPS coordinates from the agency. It takes guts to leave your car parked alone with all the luggage inside, but honestly, no stress at all). Afternoon at the Movenpick (pricey but nice) to enjoy the Dead Sea. Dinner on-site. Perfect relaxation for a first day.



Day 2: Drove south along the Dead Sea. First stop at Wadi Mujib (great, fun, and full of water—max 2-hour round trip). Then a second swim in the Dead Sea, 10 km past the Wadi Mujib Center, which we preferred over the Movenpick spot because it felt wilder. Just pull over when you see tents along the road where you can take a shower after swimming (a must! Cost: 3 JOD per shower). The scenery is stunning, and the swim feels more natural than at the hotels. A really cool experience.

Around 3 PM, took the scenic route after the Dead Sea toward Little Petra (1.5 hours). Don’t take the King’s Highway directly—instead, continue on the Wadi Arabia road, then turn left (Route 60) after the town of Feifa and the ‘Jo Petrol’ gas station. Worth it! Visited Little Petra in the late afternoon and had dinner + stayed overnight at the Seven Wonder Luxury Camp. TOP: warm welcome and great advice on the best order for hikes in Petra based on sunlight and avoiding backtracking. We regretted not staying two nights…

Day 3: PETRA Petra info: Not many people around, so we really enjoyed it (thanks to the geopolitical situation). We’ll share the times of our circuits since we were able to catch the sun on the key sites (9:30 AM for the Treasury). As amateur photographers, we took our time on all the visits and circuits—you can shave off about 25% of the suggested times. But rushing can ruin Petra’s magic! For us, two full days is the minimum.



First day in Petra with arrival at 7:30 AM. Free parking in front of the visitor center… Program: Siq, Khazneh (40 min), then the amazing “High Place of Sacrifice” circuit between 9:30 AM and 12:30 PM, starting directly to the left before the theater. This avoids climbing in the sun (great tip from our camp host the night before!).

Arrived at the Great Temple, lunch at the ‘The Bassin’ self-service (17 JOD per person!). Expensive, but it’s a good place to rest 😉 Then visited the churches with viewpoints over the temples, accompanied by two friends 🙂, the Colonnaded Street, and the tombs (in the sun at 4 PM), the Theater… then back via the Khazneh and the Siq (another 40 min!).

Arrived at the Seven Wonder Hotel in Petra at 5 PM, exhausted!! Good hotel, simple room, but an amazing rooftop with a pool—perfect for relaxing after Petra. A car is necessary to reach the visitor center and possibly downtown for dinner (the hotel dining room isn’t cozy at all). Two great places to eat: Mr. Falafel for lunch or dinner (also makes takeaway meals for 4 JOD)—simple but delicious! My Mom's Recipe Restaurant—great decor on the terrace and really tasty food. Day 4: Little Petra to the Monastery circuit. You need a special ticket issued on the road to Little Petra (you can get there by taxi from the visitor center for 10 JOD or by shuttle), where they take you in a 4x4 to the start of the trail. This saves an hour of walking in the sun but costs 5 JOD per person. Started the trail around 8:30 AM. Count 3 hours to get all the way down. Great circuit that avoids climbing the 800 steps (just descending them!).

Before reaching the Monastery, tea break at the “End of the World Coffee” following the “best view” sign—the name isn’t exaggerated!!!! Breathtaking desert views in a charming setting. We could’ve stayed forever!

Great tip: Picnic at Petra (free tables available next to the BASIN restaurant, and sandwiches for sale—though not great—if you didn’t bring your own). Then we wandered around the site: a small circuit behind the Nabatean Restaurant with a view of the entire site, returning via the path that runs above Qasr al-Bint, the Great Temple, and the Colonnaded Street to reach the Street of Facades. This path offers another stunning view overlooking the temples and tombs. We took our time, and it was amazing… Back to Seven Wonder by 3:30 PM… The call of the pool, and we were exhausted!

Day 5: Last day in Petra with the Al Khubtha Trail circuit to see the Khazneh from above. Really fun to do (2.5-hour round trip, including 30 minutes of contemplation 😊. Best in the morning to see the Khazneh in the sun 👉 9:15 AM). Return via the tombs, and we recommend going straight up while staying left of the main path (amazing circuit with the best view of the theater—gorgeous).



Back to the car at 1 PM, lunch at Mr. Falafel, and headed to Aqaba via Little Petra and the Dead Sea (the Wadi Arabia road we loved!) to take the “Rift Valley—West Route” to Aqaba. The scenery loses its charm once you hit Route 65—we ended up regretting not taking the shorter route… but if you haven’t taken the Wadi Arabia road before, don’t miss it! Arrived at the Bedouin Garden Village at 5 PM (Aqaba, South Beach), and diving briefing 😊! Simple hotel with a great vibe and a nice little pool. However, not the cleanest (rooms and common areas)—you can tell there’s been a lack of guests lately, which is a shame because the location, decor, and atmosphere are all great. On the other hand, disappointed by the southern beaches—dirty and almost deserted, with nothing open for dinner in the evening.

Day 6-7: Morning dives (great marine life, easy shore dives with unique wrecks—cargo ship, tank, plane sunk near the shore). Lots of colorful fish, though small. Afternoons and evenings in Aqaba, which turned out to be a lively and pleasant city. Sunset drinks by the embankment near the giant flag—a great mix of local life, loud racing boats, music… we loved it. Dinner at Al Shami Restaurant—delicious, affordable, and a really nice terrace with a view of the beautiful Sharif Hussein bin Ali Mosque. Perfect lemon-mint juice!

Day 8: Two final dives in the morning, then drove to Wadi Rum (1 hour). Welcomed by Khaled and Claire from Mars on Earth (a top agency we highly recommend—they put together a “semi-custom” stay based on our schedule and desire to avoid crowds. Claire is French, which makes booking and planning ahead via email much easier). Afternoon in a private 4x4 in northern Wadi Rum to see the most famous and visited sites (lots of improbable selfies 😠!). Gorgeous sunset with Bedouin tea over the fire. Khaled is amazing, with a beautiful smile… Arrived at the tent camp for the night. Great location, unique dinner, and a fun evening around the fire with Khaled leading cool games that got everyone chatting. Beautiful tent with a view of the stars…

Day 9: Trek to Burdah Rock Bridge (3 hours)—for sporty types only, as it’s a tough climb and descent with no protection or pitons… basically climbing with just a 3-meter rope held by our guide to help us! But what an amazing memory, incredible views, and a real adventure for my 57 years! Would do it again in a heartbeat 😊!

Then headed south in Wadi Rum. Let’s just say it was our favorite area… we strongly recommend spending a full day there… Wild, red, and empty—another planet! Salem, our climbing guide, took us to wonderful spots with breathtaking views. We wished the day could’ve lasted 48 hours!



End of the day: sunset, Bedouin tea, beautiful views… Just the classics 😉, but we loved it! Then spent the night under the stars. Salem set up comfortable mattresses and thick blankets, prepared tea and dinner over the wood fire. An amazing experience—like being a kid again, with a sky so stunning we fought sleep just to keep our eyes open.

Day 10: Woke up around 7 AM after a great night under the stars! Breakfast… and then it was time to head back to Claire and Khaled’s to pick up our car. Drove to Wadi Ghuweir (2.5 hours from the King’s Highway). A truly magnificent wadi reached after a steep descent (don’t take a Fiat 500 for the climb back up!). Make sure to hike 2 hours in to reach a lush oasis with water where you can swim in the middle of the wadi… We didn’t know and stopped 15 minutes too early… I still regret it!! If there’s no water at the start of the hike, it’s because it’s flowing underground—don’t give up thinking the wadi is dry! That’s why it’s Claire’s and Family in Jordan’s favorite wadi. A must-do! Picnic in the wadi. Around 4 PM, headed to Dana—visited this tiny, unique village, half in ruins and half restored while keeping its old-world charm. Stayed overnight and had dinner at Dana Luxury Huts (amazing view with a private balcony, great triangular rooms—though the bathroom is tiny). Run by a family. Delicious food cooked by the mom. Bedouin tea after dinner around the fire—such a nice moment.

Day 11: “Sheq Al Reesh” trek in Dana Valley booked through the Luxury Huts hotel. Four hours in a totally different landscape from the desert—unique and guided by a fantastic guide who prepared a memorable lunch over a fire on the cliffside. We really loved this hike and the peacefulness of Dana. A great stop to break up the long drive back to the airport. Left Dana at 2 PM for Kerak Castle (2.5-hour drive). Nice visit, especially the underground passages. Then drove to Madaba (1.5 hours) to explore the city by night, do some last-minute shopping, and wait for our 3:30 AM flight… not fun!

Good to know:

Late October was a perfect time—temperatures between 25 and 35°C depending on location (mountains or sea), with lows of 13°C at night in Wadi Rum 👉 A fleece is enough; it’s not that cold in the desert, and the blankets are amazing. Eleven days is the perfect amount of time to take it slow, stop for "Bedouin tea" invitations in unexpected places, and soak in the colors! We don’t regret doing the trip "backwards"—starting with the Dead Sea and ending with Wadi Rum and Dana (usually, people start with the King’s Highway). We recommend the ‘Family In Jordan’ guide for those who want an easy way to find trailheads and routes. Don’t hesitate to explore multiple wadis—not just Wadi Mujib! We highly recommend Mars on Earth for organizing your Wadi Rum stay. Very professional, with great bivouac and camp locations. No pushy salespeople. Jordanians are very respectful (especially toward women), super smiley, and helpful. We felt completely at ease—almost too much so 😉 Renting a car is a great option, but if possible, choose a mid-size category with a "real" engine and check the tires. The hills are tough, and some roads turn into semi-off-road for 500 meters… No issues driving—roads are in good condition. The only problem is the aggressive speed bumps everywhere. The Dana-Madaba King’s Highway is long (4 hours). Budget varies a lot depending on your choices: from a simple lunch for 4 JOD to a dinner for 30 JOD, depending on how touristy the restaurant is… On average, 8–10 JOD for a good local or seafood dish + drink, and 30–40 JOD for a night in a hotel (except the Movenpick, unfortunately ☹). Watch out for Fridays—it’s really hard to find picnic supplies! If you’re still hesitant, the Jordan Pass is a must and very cost-effective since it includes your visa. Get it online. Consider hubs like Madrid or Frankfurt—often faster and cheaper than flying via Paris and Air France if you live in the provinces!

Hi everyone,

I’d like to share my family trip to Colombia with kids aged 8. After spending hours browsing the forum and only having two weeks there, we decided to focus on two regions: the Coffee Zone for one week and the Caribbean coast for another. We traveled from August 8 to 23.

Day 1 – First stop: Bogotá

We arrived in Bogotá in the evening on an Air France flight—nothing to complain about, decent service, comfortable, and on time. However, the first night was a miss. We’d booked a hotel near the airport (Abitel Prime) for convenience, but the soundproofing was almost nonexistent; we heard planes as if we were on the runway. Luckily, exhaustion helped us sleep well anyway.

Day 2 – Off to the Coffee Zone and Salento

The next morning, we headed to the airport for a domestic flight to Pereira with LATAM. No issues: punctual and efficient, and in 30 minutes, we landed in Pereira. The landing already set a different mood: lush valleys, endless plantations, and humid air. We picked up our rental car from Localiza. Unfortunately, the experience wasn’t smooth—the paperwork took forever, and the wait tested our patience. Finally free, we hit the road to Salento, one of Quindío’s gems. We arrived in the late afternoon and discovered a colorful village bustling with artisan shops and cafés. Our first stroll helped us soak in the atmosphere before dinner at Bambú restaurant—a great surprise with careful cooking and local flavors. We spent the night at Casa Serafín, a charming little hotel, nicely decorated and well-located… but unfortunately very noisy.

Day 3 – The magic of Cocora Valley

This was one of the trip’s highlights. We set off early for Cocora Valley, famous for its giant wax palms, Colombia’s emblem. We chose the 12 km loop recommended by the *Routard*. The landscapes were spectacular: towering palms, rivers, suspension bridges. It felt like walking through a postcard. The weather was perfect. That evening, we dined at Barnabé restaurant—pleasant setting, decent food, but the bill was a bit steep for what it was. Back to Casa Serafín.

Day 4 – Coffee and panoramic views

The plan was a visit to Finca El Ocaso. For 1.5 hours, we followed a passionate guide who explained the entire coffee process, from harvest to cup. Very educational, accessible for both kids and adults, all in a stunning setting. The tour was in English for us, and we translated for our kids, who aren’t bilingual yet. In the afternoon, we climbed to Salento’s viewpoint. The valley view was superb. That evening, we ate at Veggie Garden, a simple and pleasant spot that was a nice change from the heavier meals of previous days.

Day 5 – Horseback ride to Santa Rita Waterfall

We booked a horseback ride with Cocora Magic. It was a real success: calm horses, a beautiful trail, mountain and meadow landscapes, and finally the refreshing and wild Santa Rita Waterfall. Without a doubt, one of the best moments of our time in the region. We even got a bonus ride up a 300-meter hill. We then headed to Filandia, less known than Salento but just as charming. We spent the late afternoon enjoying the pool at MuchoSur Filandia. The hotel is beautiful, in an idyllic setting. However, we also had soundproofing issues and could hear our neighbors.

Day 6 – Rainy detour through Filandia and Manizales

Rain caught up with us in the early morning: torrents of water made it impossible to go out. We stayed at the hotel, reading quietly. By noon, the rain let up: a quick walk in Filandia, a quick lunch, then off to Manizales. We chose to stay at El Otoño hot springs. Great choice: as soon as we arrived, we plunged into the hot pools, perfect after hours on the road.

Day 7 – Hiking and hot springs

In the morning, we hiked the Camino de Super Coco (found somewhat randomly on Google). A pleasant trail with mountain views and a peaceful atmosphere. The afternoon was spent in the hotel’s thermal pools, with a short marked hike down to the river. Dinner on-site at the hot springs’ restaurant. A simple but very relaxing day.

Day 8 – Rain, jacuzzi, and games

We continued to Finca Los Alpes. The rain greeted us again, but this time it turned into an asset: nothing like a steaming jacuzzi with a view of the misty mountains. The kids enjoyed the facilities too: mini-golf, ping-pong, billiards. Dinner and night at the hotel, cozy vibes.

Day 9 – Off to the Caribbean coast

Back to the airport to return the car (still a bit long). Flight to Cartagena with Avianca: punctual and comfortable. Upon arrival, we picked up another car and headed straight to the Hyatt Regency, a modern hotel with a pool. That evening, we dined at the hotel—practical after a travel day.

Day 10 – Colonial Cartagena

We set off to explore Cartagena’s old town. It was enchanting: colorful facades, flowered balconies, colonial charm—just magical. However, the heat was stifling and very humid. Afternoon relaxation by the pool. Dinner at Gestlani, a good restaurant in town.

Day 11 – Road to Barú

A hearty breakfast, then one last swim in the pool before heading to Barú. We checked into Las Islas Hotel. The setting was enchanting: wooden cabins nestled in the vegetation, a private beach, turquoise sea, impeccable service. Dinner at the hotel’s restaurant.

Day 12 – Beach and relaxation

A full beach day in Barú. Warm water, white sand, coconut trees, peace and quiet. A real postcard scene with iguanas and birds.

Day 13 – On to Santa Marta

Another morning at the beach before hitting the road to Santa Marta. The drive was a bit long (6 hours), especially with traffic jams in Barranquilla. It was the longest car ride of the trip. We spent the night at Villa María Tayrona, a beautiful place near the park.

Day 14 – Tayrona Park

We left early for Tayrona Park. We entered through **El Zaino**, parked the car, and set off on a hike to La Piscina (about 2 hours). We stopped along the way at Playa Arenilla, a stunning little beach, to rest. Lunch on-site, a swim, then back by 4 PM. The hike was a bit tiring, but the nature was spectacular: dense jungle, the sound of waves, and even a monkey encounter along the way. Evening and dinner at the hotel.

Day 15 – Last swim and return flight to Bogotá

Our last morning was split between the pool and the beach (the hotel has direct access via a 7-minute trail through vegetation and flowers)—hard to leave this paradise. We drove to Santa Marta’s airport to return the car, then flew back to Bogotá. We spent the night at Casa Dann Carlton, a comfortable hotel. We simply ordered room service, arriving too late to go out.

Day 16 – Bogotá and the end of the trip

Our last day in Colombia. After a good breakfast, we explored La Candelaria. Its cobbled streets and colorful houses were worth the visit. We visited the Botero Museum (free) and the Gold Museum, both fascinating. Back to the airport for our 11:55 PM Air France flight.

That’s a wrap on a varied trip—lush mountains, colorful villages, dream beaches, and tropical jungle. The pace was pretty relaxed, well-suited for our kids. They absolutely loved the trip to Colombia. Driving in Colombia was very easy, and we didn’t regret renting a car at all—it gave us more freedom to get around.

If I were to do it again, here’s what I’d change: - I’d spend less time in the Coffee Zone to stay a bit longer on the Caribbean coast, which was more relaxing for the kids. Or I’d head to Medellín, but I didn’t think the city was very kid-friendly. - Bogotá is a city that deserves a day’s visit, but it’s not a must-see. Maybe I’d have taken the KLM flight from Cartagena to Amsterdam instead.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate!

Antoine

I’ll repost here the comments I gave in reply to Camidav – see their post https://voyageforum.com/forum/partir-10-jours-bresil-en-autonomie-d10702249/. As we’ve said several times, 10 days is short for Brazil! But it’s still enough for a “little introduction.” My very recent experience (April 2025) with a 2½-week itinerary might give you some ideas. To start, here’s the route: - - Saturday, March 29: departure from Lisbon and arrival in São Paulo with LATAM - - 2 nights in São Paulo - - Monday, March 31: bus from São Paulo to Paraty - - Monday 31, Tuesday 1st, and Wednesday, April 2: 3 nights in Paraty - - Thursday, April 3: bus from Paraty to Angra dos Reis, then ferry > Ilha Grande - - Thursday 3, Friday 4, and Saturday, April 5: 3 nights in Abraão, on Ilha Grande - - Sunday, April 6: speedboat > Conceição de Jacareí, then bus > Rio de Janeiro - - Sunday 6, Monday 7, Tuesday 8, and Wednesday, April 9: 4 nights in Rio - - Thursday, April 10: flight with LATAM from Rio to Foz do Iguaçu - - Thursday, April 10: one night in Foz do Iguaçu - - Friday, April 11: visit to Iguaçu Falls on the Brazilian side, then crossing the border to Puerto Iguazu - - Friday 11 and Saturday, April 12: 2 nights in Puerto Iguazu - - Saturday, April 12: visit to the falls on the Argentine side - - Sunday, April 13: return to Brazil, LATAM flight > São Paulo - - Sunday 13 and Monday, April 14: 2 nights in São Paulo - - Tuesday, April 15: flight from São Paulo > Lisbon with LATAM, arriving Wednesday the 16th. So, it’s clear I’m writing this now from Puerto Iguazu (Argentina), and the end of the trip is near: back to São Paulo and then the flight to Lisbon. I’ll of course share more about all this in the following messages.

Hi everyone, We (two adults, 74 and 70 years old) had already shared a travel journal about our first trip to the Philippines in February/March 2019 on this forum (https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9377175;search_string=carnet%20philippines). We had visited Manila, the Banaue rice terraces, Sagada, the Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, Dumaguette), and on our way back to Luzon, the Taal volcano before returning to France. Delighted by this trip, organized by the French-speaking agency Alizé, we decided to further explore this beautiful country, this time focusing on Coron and Palawan. Before writing this journal, I should mention that these are personal comments and don’t reflect any differing opinions. Without any literary or photographic talent, I’ll stick to the facts and share a few details about the visits, hotels, and restaurants.

Preparations

We decided to return in mid-January 2025 and consulted three French-speaking tour operators to create a trip based on our wishes (places to visit, type of accommodation) and budget. Comparing three operators helped us weigh their advice and make our choices. Only our first operator respected the budget, a second came close, and the third proposed a slightly more upscale trip. In the end, we chose the agency from our first trip. Our discussions helped refine our itinerary, and when we reviewed it point by point, the document provided was perfect, full of great tips. The most debated point was a 3-day, 2-night cruise between Coron and Palawan. We were tempted but worried about being the only "older" travelers among younger people and feared two uncomfortable nights. Reassured by our tour operator, we finally opted for this "exploration." We’ll come back to that later. Once the choice was made and dates set, we booked our international flights with Cathay Pacific for 750 € per person, which offers the best schedules (short layovers) at an acceptable price for flights arriving in Cebu. Our trip started on February 25 and returned to Paris on March 15.

International flights

The round-trip flights went smoothly. Cathay does the job well, without frills. The service quality seems to have slightly declined compared to our previous trips with them. Hong Kong Airport is huge but very practical. Note that not all airlines serve Cebu. Recommendation: Fill out your Philippine entry form within 72 hours before your flight. This can prevent issues with the airline (possible boarding refusal) and saves a lot of time upon arrival (see the Philippine embassy website).

Domestic flights

For our two domestic flights—Cebu to Coron and Puerto Princesa to Cebu—our tour operator chose Philippine Airlines and their propeller planes. No problems there.

Day 1: We landed around 12 PM (local time) after 17 hours of travel. A driver was waiting for us at the airport exit and took us to our hotel, intentionally chosen near the airport (Mandaue, about 10 minutes away) to help us recover and get a good night’s sleep before our early morning domestic flight the next day. The Mayoo Hotel, reasonably priced, was perfect for this. Large, beautiful room in a new building—clean, comfortable, with a spa. We could relax by the pool on the 16th floor and enjoy the city view. The breakfast was exceptional, and the staff was smiling, attentive, and helpful. An ATM in the lobby allowed for withdrawals. However, the hotel is in a neighborhood with nothing to see or do. We dined at the Korean restaurant K-GOGI across from the hotel—a real attraction and a great discovery.

Day 2: After a restful night, we were driven to the airport around 6:30 AM for an 8:10 AM flight from Cebu to Busuanga (Coron).



The flight was uneventful. Upon arrival, we paid 200 pesos per person for the Coron tourist fee before a 40-minute transfer to our hotel: Natura Resort, located outside the city in a secluded spot. The setting is stunning—a beautifully maintained tropical garden, a pleasant pool, and the option to book massages. The cottages are tropical-style with thatched roofs, simple and unpretentious.



The owner, who speaks French, told us that given the heat and our ages, climbing the 721 steps to the top of Mount Tapyas wasn’t necessary. She gave us a few rooftop recommendations to watch the sunset over Coron Bay. After a good swim in the pool and a meal at the resort’s pleasant restaurant, we hired a tricycle to go into town. We were told it costs 150 pesos one way, and depending on the return time, it could exceed 250 pesos. But our driver gave us his WhatsApp number and charged the same price regardless of the time. He just earned two days’ worth of customers. He dropped us off at the port where bangkas (local boats) gather for day trips. It was the end of the day, so there was a rush. A few shops around the port sold waterproof bags for marine excursions at reasonable prices (compared to back home), after some bargaining. We wandered the town’s alleys looking for the Top Hotel, whose rooftop is famous. Indeed, it’s perfectly located to admire the sunset and enjoy a refreshing drink.







We dined nearby at a small Chinese restaurant, then just had to call our driver to head back. The night wasn’t entirely restful—our hotel had a soundtrack of all the countryside animals, and it seemed they had no set bedtime! :

Hello, We’re a couple in our sixties and we’ve just spent 22 days in Brazil, from October 29th to November 21st. We flew from Marseille via Lisbon—outbound to Rio, and back from Recife. Our itinerary: 4 days in Rio 4 days on Ilha Grande 2 days in Paraty 4 days in Salvador 4 days on Boïpeba 4 days in Olinda The transfer between Boïpeba and Recife took us 2 days—boats, taxis, and a flight. We stayed in Airbnbs except in Paraty, where we were in a pousada, and during the Boïpeba–Recife transfer, when we booked a hotel near the airport. Our flights were with Gol and Azul. Transfers from Rio were arranged through Paraty Tour. In Rio, we used a local agency to visit Corcovado and Sugarloaf Mountain.

Happy to answer any questions! Marc

Hi everyone.

I wanted to share a little feedback from our trip to Guatemala—we got back a month ago, and I really appreciated the well-commented posts here that helped us out. So, in turn, I wanted to share our own little recap.

We’ve traveled quite a bit together (we’re 38 and 42), and Guatemala had been on our radar for a while. But with so much info out there, it was hard to sort through it all—especially since we only had 3 weeks on the ground and didn’t want to waste time.

Here’s the itinerary we followed: Antigua, the Pacific coast, Lake Atitlán, a private coffee and bird reserve, Chichicastenango, Sayaxché, El Remate, Río Dulce, and Lake Izabal.

We rented a 4x4, which was essential given the state of some roads.

Our highlights: * **Pacific coast**: So authentic and preserved. We met sea turtles, cooked and baked coconut bread with a women’s community—such a meaningful exchange—and kayaked through a pristine mangrove full of birds. * **Lake Atitlán**: Even though we were worried it might feel too touristy, a private tour let us discover local crafts, hidden workshops (weaving, pottery), and the stunning views from the boat. * **Sayaxché**: The starting point for the Aguateca and Dos Pilas sites—one of our favorite outings. The site is breathtaking: walking through the canyon and jungle-covered ruins with almost no one around. We stayed in a little bungalow on an island, totally off the grid. * **In Petén**, we met an Itza Maya tribe—an unforgettable day sharing a meal and plant-based healing rituals. Wow. This tribe resisted the conquistadors and still lives traditionally. We also took a tour on Lake Petén and swam at hidden little beaches. Tikal was nice, but we preferred Yaxhá. * **Río Dulce**: A day at a private cocoa plantation—an adventure in a buggy with the owner himself. We harvested cocoa and ate the chocolate paste afterward, then swam in a waterfall on the property. Since it’s private, there was no one else around. A real privilege. * **Boat tour on the Río Dulce**: For us, the highlight. We visited a school where they’re committed to giving kids a solid education while blending Maya rituals. * **Lake Izabal**: A peaceful end to the trip in a magical setting. We visited Quiriguá.

We went through an organizer who knows the country really well. We weren’t initially planning on that, but thanks to her, we had experiences we never would’ve found on our own. On top of that, we actually paid less for the trip overall because of her local rates. I’m not getting anything out of this—I just think it could help other travelers. Her business is Secretplaceincostarica (she also does Costa Rica, which we’re now eager to explore).

On the ground, we felt completely safe. The people are lovely, the roads can be a little chaotic at times, but we loved every minute of it.

Happy travels to all! Marie

Arrival at Luang Prabang Airport: Got my visa on the spot in under 5 minutes, but it cost me $40 + $1 for some "processing fee" and a photo. First ATM withdrawal of the maximum allowed—about 82 €! Luckily, I had euros on me because each withdrawal comes with a fixed fee of 30,000 kips (like in Thailand, where it’s 200 baht per withdrawal, but here you can take out up to 800 €!). Then I took the airport taxi service for 100,000 kips per person. It’s a minivan that drops passengers (8–10) at their hotels. The ticket booth is right at the exit—easy to spot with a sign that says "Taxi Service."

I left Luang Prabang for Nong Khiaw by minivan, paying 180,000 kips. A big tuk-tuk taxi picked us up at the hotel at 8:40 AM, and we picked up more people along the way until we reached a small minivan station. Our "minivan" was *very* mini—we still managed to squeeze in 12 people, with 2 up front + the driver, even though there wasn’t really space for 2 full seats—more like 1.5! Luggage was strapped to the roof under a tarp for the trip. Scheduled to leave at 9 AM, we finally took off at 9:30. The ride took 4 hours and 15 minutes from station to station—roads were rough, sometimes unpaved, and always full of potholes. This route is mostly used by trucks registered in China. We passed the dam that now blocks boat traffic between Luang Prabang and Nong Khiaw. About 40 km from Nong Khiaw, we turned off the main road onto a smaller one, less crowded with trucks but still rough. At the Nong Khiaw bus station, a shared taxi was waiting to drop everyone off at their hotels. I walked to mine—the Nam Ou View Villa, about 600 meters from the station. Nice room with a great view of the river.

Nong Khiaw is easy to explore on foot. One unpaved road runs along the river, lined with hotels and restaurants with terraces, while a parallel paved road has little traffic and all the shops. I loved the vibe and tranquility of the town. There are plenty of guesthouses, especially on the other side of the bridge. Restaurants everywhere, all in a calm atmosphere. I hiked up to the highest viewpoint—there are several. The climb is supposed to take 1.5 hours, but it took me 2. Time to enjoy the nature and catch my breath! No real difficulty, just a *lot* of uphill. There’s a small toll at the start of the climb—I don’t remember the exact amount, but it wasn’t expensive. The view at the top is stunning—360°! Mornings are cloudy, midday is usually clear, and evenings are all about the sunset ☀️. The descent was tougher for me—guaranteed sore muscles!

I also walked along the Nam Ou toward Muang Ngoi. The road is quiet and unpaved but often narrow with no views. Small villages along the way. In town, you can rent canoes, and agencies offer day trips or multi-day excursions. There are shops, a bank, and 2 ATMs.

Departure for Muang Ngoi—a village only accessible by private or public boat. I took the 11:30 AM public boat (sold as 11 AM) for 70,000 kips. There were so many of us that two boats were needed, and we were still packed in! We left 40 minutes late because the ticket collector didn’t check anything, and one ticket was missing. Of course, everyone insisted they’d paid—which was probably true, given the general disorganization. The trip took 1 hour and 5 minutes, going upstream against the current. Gorgeous.

Arriving at Muang Ngoi’s tiny dock, hotel owners were waiting for their guests or offering rooms to those without reservations. I’d booked the Riverview Bungalows & GH. The room was a bit worn but comfortable, and the view was amazing!

Muang Ngoi has ONE recently paved main street—all other paths are red dirt and dusty, perfect for unguided day hikes. I *loved* this village. People live their lives without worrying much about tourists, who aren’t too numerous yet. There’s no bank or ATM, and dollars are accepted (even preferred) for transport and hotels. Watch the condition of your bills—the hotelier refused one with a tiny stain I hadn’t even noticed! There are travel agencies for excursions, small shops... I often ate at Gecko (Western food, I admit) and across the street at Vita, which serves a delicious local dish called *Suzy*—a curry-like specialty. From Muang Ngoi, there are plenty of easy hikes. The trails are simple to find and follow, except for those crossing rice fields. Maps.Me helped me stay on track.

If you don’t want to walk, there are very local transport options: modified tractors with platforms for passengers and luggage. I took an excursion to Sopchem, a small village 40 minutes away by boat. I paid $20 round-trip for two people on a private boat. The ride was stunning—the river cuts through mountains in this section. Sopchem is tiny but charming, especially for buying textiles. Every house has a loom out front and a display selling their work. I bought two scarves for 60,000 kips each without bargaining—it seemed like a steal. Back in Luang Prabang, I saw the same scarves in a fancy boutique for 55,000 kips each—9 or 10 times the price!!!!

I also tried the village laundry service—everywhere lists the price as 25,000 kips per kilo. I picked the closest one to my hotel and watched from my balcony as the woman washed my clothes in the river, then hung them on her fence all day in the dust! Turns out only hotels have washing machines. Better to postpone laundry or do it yourself—my clothes didn’t smell great afterward!

For the return to Luang Prabang, I splurged on a private transfer. An agency at the dock arranged it for $100. I took the public boat to Nong Khiaw, where a driver was waiting. His vehicle was a pickup truck, and the trip took 4 hours total to my hotel in the city center. I recommend this agency (Lattanavongsa Tour Adventure)—very professional. They also run a hotel (same name) that looked nice from the outside, though not riverfront.

In Luang Prabang, I did the Mekong sunset cruise. Departed at 4:30 PM with Sasa Sunset Cruise for 245,000 kips, including one drink and spring rolls. I was lucky to see a beautiful sunset—I don’t regret it. I also visited the tiny Traditional Arts and Ethnology Centre—very interesting for learning about Laos’ ethnic groups and textile traditions, but *very* small. Of course, I visited the temples and wandered the alleys to admire the stunning houses. The sunset at Mount Phousi was nice, but *so* crowded! The night market is fun but not super interesting—vendors sell pretty much the same things you’ll find in daytime shops at the same prices. There are two food courts, one huge at the end of the market. I love the concept, but the quality of the stalls is debatable.

Luang Prabang The morning alms-giving ceremony for monks is called *Tak Bat*. This ritual has turned into a circus for Chinese tourists. I’d visited Luang Prabang 15 years ago and didn’t find the same serenity in the ceremony. In Luang Prabang, I exchanged euros at BFL BRED Bank (recommended in the *Routard* guide). Good rates and a smooth transaction. The employee spoke excellent French and offered me deals on the Sasa sunset cruise (with dinner) and a taxi to the airport. I took her up on the taxi—it was much cheaper. She explained that she works evenings at Sasa Sunset Cruise and the taxi driver is her husband.

Hope this gives you some practical tips for your next trip!

SIEM REAP You can now rent scooters just about everywhere in Siem Reap, but at rip-off prices—$15–18 a day instead of $5–10 like everywhere else in Indochina. The best options are tuk-tuks or, even better, electric bikes ($12, but with a 50 km range, so they won’t let you go to Banteay Srei or the River of a Thousand Lingas in the Kulen Massif, which are too far). **WARNING:** Wear a helmet, or they *will* catch you. Scooters are banned from going from SR to the stunning temple of Koh Ker in the northeast and continuing to Battambang; no idea why!

My favorite little hotel in Siem Reap? The Neth Socheata, tucked in an alley off Thnou St near the market—lovely rooms, and the owner speaks great English. Then there’s the Ivy Guesthouse with its little garden, but it’s “always full,” according to the owner. For something upscale but still affordable, a fantastic spot is the Pavillon Indochine, tucked away on a quiet side street on the way to the airport—elegant, with incredible attention to decor, a terrace restaurant, garden, pool, etc. Everything you’d want for $70 including breakfast. I also spotted a hostel for backpackers, the Angkor Thom Hostel, with small 6-bed dorms for $4 with a fan or $6 with AC (18 Wat Bo St).

Food-wise, it’s all amazing! Pub Street has turned into a noise nightmare, with speakers blasting what’s supposed to be music but is just *boom, boom, boom, boom, boom*—run away, even though the pizzas at the Italian place Il Forno are really good. The famous and excellent Tigre de Papier has changed its name to Paper Tiger and is still just as good (lunch only, though, because across the street there’s a huge bar blasting *boom boom boom*, so you won’t be able to hear each other during dinner). On the other hand, the Italian-Cambodian El Toro on Pub Street is perfect, with fantastic pizzas and divine lasagna (go to the first-floor dining room—there’s a big bar across the street blasting *boom boom boom*, but at least you can still talk). Due to the lack of customers during COVID, all the French restaurants—Barrio (three times alas!), Les Deux Sœurs, Le Bel Air, and Le Mozart—have closed. The only one left is L’Olivier, which is pricey. I also discovered a great Moroccan restaurant (though run by a Sudanese man and his French wife), Le Tajine, on Strung Thmei St, 09 68 89 78 27. **WARNING:** For tagines and couscous, you need to order at least in the morning; wine and beer are fine. To get there, turn at the corner of the Cineplex behind the big market at the start of Sivatha Boulevard.

I finally went to the Khmer dance show. Beautiful dancers and dances, but **EAT BEFORE OR AFTER**—the meal is so awful that most Westerners leave it on their plates.

THE ANGKOR TEMPLES Use the excellent *Routard Cambodia* guide. Just a few tips: - Start with the pre-Angkorian Roluos group, 15 km before Siem Reap on the road to PP—it’s the “ancestor” of the temples.

- To avoid the big crowds at Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, go between noon and 2 PM when everyone’s having lunch. - Speaking of lunch, the crowds flock to the hundred or so mediocre food stalls on the left side of Angkor Wat. Instead, head to Angkor Thom after the stunning Pre Rup temples, all the way to the small Sras Srang basin. Along the basin, there are several restaurants with terraces offering first-floor views of the water, and no crowds. Afterward, cross to the other side of the basin—you’ll end up in the countryside with charming villages where locals seem to live as they did during the temples’ golden age (at its peak, the population was estimated at 600,000–800,000, making it the largest city in the world. The theory for the abandonment is water shortages caused by overpopulation).

- I climbed Phnom Bakheng for the famous sunset, but the crowd was so ridiculous that instead of seeing the temple at sunset, you just see the heads and shoulders around you.

- There are tons of small temples that most people skip, and they’re missing out. My favorites: Thommanon, Neak Pean, Ta Som, and especially Pre Rup, an amazing brick complex with 14 towers.

**Big disappointment:** You can no longer climb to the first floor of Bayon, where you used to stand magically among the giant head statues. So, admire the beautiful bas-reliefs on the outside, but there’s no point going inside—you’ll just see a dark, square corridor with nothing interesting.

ANGKOR FURTHER AFIELD The wonderful Banteay Srei temple. A gem! I couldn’t find the bas-relief stolen by Malraux in the 1920s (fun fact: what he was doing in Indochina—stealing a bas-relief to sell for a fortune in France to cover his massive gambling debts on the stock market, where he ruined his very wealthy American wife—was an open secret. But the French authorities in Saigon, who hated him for his leftist views, decided to let him do it and catch him red-handed, which worked perfectly. He avoided jail only because all the leftist intellectuals in Saint-Germain, Sartre, Beauvoir, and co. cried scandal—though the real scandal was the looting).

30 km of excellent paved road further north, a great spot: the Kulen Massif and the River of a Thousand Lingas (at one point, you’ll come to a T-junction—turn left). Along the road at the foot of the massif, on your right, there’s a great restaurant, Bourey Sovann (where the food is excellent). The trail to the river starts just before it on the left. **Warning:** There are two sites for the River of a Thousand Lingas. One is accessible via a private road, so there’s a $20 toll, and you need to arrive before 11 AM because the road is narrow and traffic flows downhill after that. You’ll end up in a site full of shops, snack stalls, and two good restaurants, including one by a beautiful waterfall. However, the thousand lingas aren’t as spectacular there.

Banteay Srei + the River of a Thousand Lingas makes for a fantastic day. **WARNING:** You used to be able to go to the river and waterfall by scooter or tuk-tuk, but it’s now forbidden. So **go by taxi**—otherwise, you’ll be hiking 12 km round trip up a steep trail.

If you leave Siem Reap early, you can even add Beng Mealea temple on the way back, making a triangular route: SR-BS-Khulen-BM-SR (or the reverse).

If you have time, visit Banteay Samré temple, 10 km west of the Angkor Thom complex. A lovely site with very few visitors.

I’ve never been to the famous Preah Khan on a hill overlooking Thailand. There’s a big dispute between the two countries—the Thais insist the temple belongs to them because the entrance is in their country. There have been serious clashes in the recent past, and landmines are still abundant off the marked paths. They even claim the entire Siem Reap province is theirs and should be returned, arguing it was Thai in the past. It takes two days (6–7 hours each way), with an overnight stay in the nearby village (small hotels and one luxury option with a garden and pool, but it’s expensive).

TONLE SAP People talk about “floating villages,” but that’s a big mistake—these are actually villages of astonishing stilt houses, 4 meters high or more, due to the lake’s major floods. The most famous is Chong Khneas, which I skipped because it’s packed with tourists. Instead, I really liked Kampong Phluk, which is much quieter. To get there, continue on the road past the Roluos group until you reach a parking lot with pirogues lined up. They’ll take you down the river, stop at this amazing village for a walk, and then take you to the Tonle Sap, a true inland sea. At one point, you’ll pass through a flooded forest that you can explore by small boat. At the junction of the river and the Tonle Sap, and on the lake itself, there are floating restaurants where the food is great. Note that in the dry season, you can reach the village by scooter.

BACK TO PHNOM PENH AND ON TO SOUTHERN VIETNAM Since I’d planned at least 15 days in the Mekong Delta between Chau Doc and Saigon, I skipped Battambang, etc. With no desire to endure the dusty road from SR to PP again, I simply loaded my bike onto a bus with the great company Rith Monty (book at their office in SR on the small square at the start of Sivatha Boulevard—$10 for the bike and $6 for me), also known as Paramount. Their buses stop on 136 St right in the middle of PP. I’ll also mention the excellent Giant Ibis, with big modern buses that always leave on time—unlike the others.

I spent the night in PP, and the next morning took the fast boat from PP to Chau Doc with Hang Chau Tourist (buying the ticket the day before is recommended—$25—either at your hotel or the port, and they’ll pick you up at your hotel by tuk-tuk to take you to the port). Departure from PP at noon, arrival in Chau Doc around 4 PM. The boat is great—comfortable and fast. A crew member takes your passports for Cambodian exit formalities, and you handle Vietnamese immigration yourself—it all takes 15–20 minutes. The route isn’t on the Mekong but on the Bassac River to the border, then a wide north-south canal to Chau Doc (the arrival is really nice). In the Chau Doc-PP direction, the boat leaves Chau Doc at 7:30 AM.

Hi there, just back from a three-week round trip to Quebec and a side trip to New Brunswick. Departed from Montpellier, via CDG, then arrived in Montreal from July 31 to August 20, 2024. AF flights went smoothly.

The RT itinerary (without the visit details):

Arrival in Montreal; Trois-Rivières; Tadoussac; Matane; Gaspé; Campbellton; Trois-Pistoles; Quebec City; Montreal and return to France, AF to CDG then Hop! to Montpellier.

Observations:

Getting out of Montreal airport is a nightmare! Two hours at Avis Auto to pick up the car (nice ride, though—a WW SUV Atlas V6 for two). From what I’ve heard, Montreal Airport is a pain because it was initially under-dimensioned for its infrastructure, and it seems impossible to reorganize everything.

Quebecers: Wonderful people in terms of hospitality and behavior toward tourists—especially French ones. You can ask them for advice at the supermarket, for directions here and there, and those distant cousins are great! That said, I’d exclude Montreal, which, due to its size and perhaps its cosmopolitanism, can’t be considered as welcoming as the countryside and small towns we passed through. A bit like Paris, you could say.

Quebecers prefer Quebec City over Montreal, and I get it. On a positive note for the city, I left some money in the hotel at the end of my stay. Once back in France, I contacted the hotel (day before yesterday), and they confirmed the oversight and are taking steps to send the money back. A nice gesture. It’s the Nouvel Hôtel, 1740 Avenue René Lévesque. Well-located, too.

Tourists: Same as always!

Americans: Still lacking in culture and education, but we already knew that. Loud, intrusive, annoying, you could say. And I’ll skip the “Oh my God! Oh my God!” all day long. And always with a coffee cup in hand on the streets. Not just American tourists, actually. Coffee is either enjoyed at the counter of a café or at home in front of the day’s news. It must also be said that our cousins’ coffee is more like dishwater.

Tourists from the Middle Kingdom: No change there! Flagrant lack of European culture and respect. They can be quite annoying at times. Thankfully, they don’t like the countryside or small towns.

Tourists from the Land of the Rising Sun: As usual, impeccable behavior. Both in terms of dress and discretion.

The British: They feel at home. Well, they kind of are, actually. Distant, inaccessible—typical English folks.

South Americans: A lot of them in Montreal during my stay. Quite noisy, especially at breakfast. But deep down, they’re great and very polite. I really like them. Must be my 36.1% Iberian DNA from my ancestry test that makes me say that.

And the French? Always the same! Complainers, grumblers, never happy with the meal, always finding prices too high, cutting in line, sometimes with a Quechua backpack but not always. In short, we don’t change. That said, there were some really nice people and great encounters that will leave wonderful memories. Some folks from Marseille in Quebec City, Toulouse in Montreal, Perpignan... But not many Parisians. Or maybe they just don’t talk to outsiders. When I think that my wife is from the 14th arrondissement...

And lots of lovely young French people there on a Working Holiday Visa for two years.

Others? Italians? Didn’t run into many. Eastern Europeans? Didn’t see any, or they were super discreet.

The trip started on July 31. 2,000 photos to sort through. More to come later.

Voyage réalisé avec ma compagne du dimanche 5 juillet 2026 au mercredi 22 juillet 2026. Nous avons longtemps hésité avant de décider si nous louions une voiture ou si nous nous déplacerions en transport en commun. Finalement, au vu du nombre de posts que j’ai pu lire de voyageurs s’étant fait arnaquer par la police ou par les loueurs, et même ceux recommandés par tous les blogs ou commentaires, nous avons décidé de nous déplacer en transport en commun. Cela se fait très bien. Effectivement on est un peu moins libre d’aller ou on veut mais c’était pour nous beaucoup moins de stress.

Dimanche 5 juillet :

Arrivée à l’aéroport de Cancun. Retrait d’argent au distributeur dans le terminal juste avant la sortie. Le comptoir des bus ADO (qu’ils prononcent « A-Ji-O ») est situé dans votre dos quand vous êtes face au distributeur. Bus vers le centre de Cancun 145 pesos par personnes. Logement « Rose 5 » réservé sur Booking. Studio très propre parfait pour une nuit. Les indications du proprio pour accéder au logement étaient très précises avec photos à l'appui. L'arrivée est autonome et se fait par code. Le terminal de bus Ado est située pas très loin ainsi que des commerces et restaurants. Nous avons beaucoup apprécié que la clim ait été mise avant notre arrivée. D’ailleurs je vous invite à prendre des logements avec systématiquement la clim car il fait très chaud au Mexique.

Lundi 6 juillet :

Achat d’une carte sim dans une boutique TELCEL avec de la DATA. Ma compagne qui est sur Free a pu utiliser son forfait classique. Pour information j’ai trouvé le réseau très instable. Dès que l’on sortait des villes cela ne captait jamais que soit moi avec TELCEL ou ma compagne avec Free. Autre point de vigilance, attention au hors forfait. J’ai dû remettre ma carte sim quelques secondes (moins de 30 secondes pour recevoir un code sms pour ma banque) et mon téléphone s’est visiblement connecté à internet. 8 euros de hors forfait. Départ en bus ADO vers Chiquila pour 278 pesos par personne. Durant notre voyage, les bus ADO ont toujours été à l’heure, confortables et propres. Par contre la clim y est poussée à fond donc prévoyez de quoi vous couvrir car il y fait froid. Certains trajets étaient complets alors que nous étions en saison basse donc prévoyez de les réserver 1 ou 2 jours avant directement sur l’appli (quand elle fonctionne) sinon au comptoir de la compagnie. Arrivés au terminal ADO à Chiquila, les comptoirs des compagnies de ferries sont juste à côté. Il y a des départs toutes les 30 minutes en alternance, donc pas besoin de réserver à l’avance. Il vous suffit de prendre la compagnie qui a le prochain départ (330 pesos par personnes). Arrivés à Holbox (à prononcer « Holboch »), nous avions réservé un logement via booking à la « casa de nana ». Le logement était un très grand studio avec frigo, plaque pour cuisiner et ustensiles. Le gros plus de ce logement est L'emplacement. Il est situé à 100 mètres de la plage et 200 mètres d’un supermarché Chedraoui. Ils fournissent des serviettes de bain et des serviettes de plage. La climatisation fonctionnait parfaitement. Il y a une boîte à clé pour pouvoir les laisser dedans quand on sort. Par contre personne n’était là à notre arrivée pour nous ouvrir la chambre, nous avons dû attendre un moment. Le wi-fi était bon et heureusement car durant les 4 jours de notre séjour à Holbox, le réseau de téléphone n’a jamais fonctionné. Au dire des locaux cela est assez fréquent à Holbox, comme les coupures d’eau. Heureusement j’avais eu la bonne idée de télécharger une carte sur maps pour qu’elle soit disponible hors connexion, ce qui nous a permis de retrouver plus facilement notre logement. Le logement est accessible à pied depuis l’embarcadère.

Le restaurant à côté de notre logement (La Barracuda) est très bon si vous aimez les fruits de mer et je vous conseille leurs différentes recettes de poulpes.

Mardi 7 juillet :

Nous avons fait une sortie kayak dans la mangrove de Holbox le matin à 6h. Nous cherchions une sortie kayak au lever du soleil dans la mangrove avec un guide francophone. C’est le cas dans l’agence « kayaking Holbox » où Diego, le boss parle anglais et français. Il était accompagné de Gustavo, un collègue guide . Nous avions réservé pour une sortie collective mais nous n’étions que 2. Diego a quand même maintenu la sortie là ou d’autres l'auraient annulée faute de participants. Nous avons donc eu droit à une sortie privée au tarif groupe ce qui est très professionnel de sa part.. Ils nous ont fait découvrir cet écosystème merveilleux pendant plus de 3h. Nous avons vu toutes sortes d'oiseaux : flamands roses, pélicans, aigrettes, frégates....Des raies , une limule et un petit crocodile vraiment bien caché. Diego et Gustavo ont vraiment l’œil pour voir les animaux. J'aurais pu passer 100 fois devant le crocodile et je ne l'aurais jamais vu tellement il se fondait dans le paysage. Ses explications sur la faune et la flore étaient très intéressantes. Nous avons eu aussi droit à une petite pause où nous avons dégusté des mangues et bananes qui n’ont vraiment pas le même goût qu’en France . Un régal les petites mangues jaunes mexicaines. Je recommande Diego et son agence pour une sortie kayak en français (tarif 1000 pesos par personne). Le soir, nous sommes allés à pied à Punta Coco pour voir la bioluminescence. Pas besoin d’excursion guidée pour cela. Si vous ne voulez vraiment pas marcher vous pouvez prendre un taxi. A Punta Coco il vous faut passer le bar restaurant sur la plage et ensuite aller vers la gauche dans un espèce de bras de mer qui forme un lac. Il faut remuer les pieds ou mettre les mains dans l’eau et l’agiter, c’est le mouvement qui fait produire la lumière. Attention ne vous attendez pas aux photos que vous avez pu voir et qui sont toutes retouchées ! C’est sympa à voir mais vous ne serez pas éblouis par la lumière...

Mercredi 8 juillet :

Sortie requin baleine avec « My Holbox tours ». Pourquoi vous conseiller cette agence plutôt qu’une autre parmi les différentes offres pour nager avec les requins baleines ? Tout simplement parce que Valérie sait s'entourer de très bons professionnels pour rendre votre expérience exceptionnelle. Nous étions avec le capitaine Fernando qui fait tout pour placer son bateau à la perfection et faciliter votre immersion. Dans l’eau nous étions accompagnés de Humberto qui fait lui aussi tout son possible et se démène pour que vous passiez un moment incroyable. Il ne se contente pas de vous "surveiller" pour que tout se passe bien comme le font certains guides d’autres compagnies en vous abandonnant. Non, Humberto lit la trajectoire du requin baleine et vous guide. Vous n’avez plus qu’à le suivre. Il ne ménage pas ses efforts en vous tenant la main pour vous guider dans cette rencontre rapide mais intense . Humberto filme aussi ce moment. Il vous proposera de visionner les vidéos et vous proposera de les lui acheter. Ses vidéos sont de très bonne qualité. Fernando et Humberto nous ont aussi préparé à manger. Mention spéciale pour leur guacamole . Valérie est là pour que tout se passe bien sur le bateau et répondre à vos questions en français, anglais ou espagnol sur cet animal. Si vous choisissez My Holbox Tours , vous serez sûrs d’avoir une prestation de grande qualité. Concernant la sortie en elle même, avant de s’y lancer il faut savoir que les requins peuvent être très loin. Le jour de notre sortie nous avons fait 3h30 de bateau avant de les atteindre. Les bateaux utilisés sont des petits bateaux et autant vous dire qu’à l’aller, quand on n’était pas dans le bon sens par rapport aux vagues, ça tape dur ! Sur les 9 passagers 4 ont vomi. Par contre une fois face au requin vous oubliez tout ça. Même si nager avec le requin baleine n’est pas une promenade de santé. Ils nagent assez rapidement donc il faut de l’endurance pour les suivre. Vous aurez normalement droit à 2 passages. Notre premier passage a duré un peu plus de 4 minutes et le deuxième 2 minutes environ car il allait assez vite et nous étions encore fatigués de notre premier passage. Cela peut sembler court mais quand on palme c’est très long. En tout cas c’est vraiment une expérience à faire mais choisissez bien la compagnie avec qui vous le faites. Au retour il y a un arrêt à Cabo Catoche. Franchement le snorkeling est assez décevant si vous avez déjà fait du snorkeling ailleurs dans le monde. Par contre le stop repas au Cabo Catoche est très sympa pour se reposer (sable blanc et hamacs).

Jeudi 9 juillet :

Petite balade à pied en direction de Punta Mosquito à 6h du matin. Très sympa. Ferry en direction de Chiquila (330 pesos par personne) + bus Ado en direction de Valladolid (300 pesos par personne).

A Valladolid, réservation via Booking à l’hôtel « Casa Lucia ». L’hôtel est très beau, dans un style colonial , il est très proche du terminal des bus ADO et du centre. Il est très calme et propre. Il y a une cuisine commune que l’on peut utiliser avec frigo, micro ondes et une fontaine à eau, avec une grande tablée devant la piscine, et un espace terrasse intérieure sympa. Le petit déjeuner, très simple, était inclus. Les seuls petits bémols étaient la taille de la chambre et de la salle de bain qui étaient assez petites, l'absence de miroir dans la chambre, et le ventilateur qui faisait du bruit.

Vendredi 10 juillet :

Pas très loin du terminal de bus Ado se trouve la station de colectivos pour Chichen Itza . Il propose une offre aller-retour Chichen Itza avec possibilité au retour de vous déposer au cénote Ik Kil et ensuite de vous ramener à Valladolid pour 370 pesos par personne (entrée Ik kil comprise) Pour la visite de Chichen Itza nous avions réservé une visite avec un guide souvent cité sur les groupes qui s’appelle Juan Pat. C’est un maya qui vit pas très loin du site et qui parle un excellent français. Il prend les places à l’avance pour vous et fait la queue pour être le premier sur le site. Cela nous a coûté 500 pesos par personne + les entrées. Sa visite dure 2 heures et est consacrée essentiellement à la pyramide principale et au terrain du jeu de balle. Il est passionné et passionnant même s’il semblerait qu’en tant que Maya, certaines de ses affirmations seraient un peu partisanes. Il me semble vraiment important de prendre un guide sinon vous allez vraiment passer à côté du site. Vous pouvez contacter Juan Pat par whatsapp au +52 985 121 2381 Nous sommes ensuite allés au cénote Ik Kil (douche et gilets obligatoires, casiers à disposition) Effectivement il est très fréquenté, mais il est quand même très très joli avec sa végétation luxuriante.

Samedi 11 juillet :

Comme nous n’avions pas de voiture mais que nous voulions néanmoins visiter d’autres cénotes où il semblait compliqué de se rendre en transport en commun, nous avons fait le choix de réserver un taxi pour la journée. Nous nous sommes donc mis d’accord pour 1200 pesos pour nous amener à 3 cénotes différents et nous attendre à chaque fois: Xcanahaltun, Palomitas, Sac-Aua. (Pour trouver les taxis c’est simple : ils stationnent à l’arrivée de la gare des bus ADO.) Il nous a rejoint au cénote Zaci que nous avions rejoint à pied. Nous y sommes allés à l’ouverture, nous étions les premiers et seuls un moment ! 150 pesos par personne. Joli cénote en centre ville avec une belle végétation luxuriante. Il ressemble un peu à Ik Kil mais avec moins cet effet cylindre profond impressionnant.

Cénote Xcanahaltun : le plus beau cénote parmi ceux visités. Entrée 250 pesos par personne. Il s’agit d’un cénote fermé avec un trou qui laisse passer la lumière. Un décor de grotte. Kayak possible dans le cénote. Il y a plein de petits poissons au bord qui mangent les peau mortes de vos pieds. Etant fermé, l’eau est... très fraîche !

Cénote Palomitas : entrée 250 pesos par personne. Très beau cénote fermé, encore plus fermé que Xcanahaltun. Le trou au plafond est encore plus petit, donc très sombre quand nous sommes arrivés, ambiance un peu impressionnante. Extraordinaire lorsque le personnel allume les lumières, le cénote rappelle une « cathédrale gothique » pleine de stalactites très clairs.

Cénote Sac Aua : entrée 290 pesos par personne. L’entrée inclut la visite d’une grotte avec un guide local (paiement au pourboire). Ce cénote est très original avec son île centrale, et beaucoup moins couru que Suytun. Pour info l’eau est vraiment très froide dans les cénotes. Dans ces trois cénotes, en juillet, nous étions seuls un moment et pas vu plus de 2 familles en même temps, vraiment très agréable !

Dimanche 12 juillet :

Bus Ado vers Bacalar (536 pesos par personnes). A Bacalar, nous avons logé via AirBnb chez une hôte qui s’appelle Luli et qui propose plusieurs chambres avec salle de bain et cuisine partagée.

La chambre est joliment décorée dans un endroit agréable. Elle est idéalement située à proximité de la lagune et du centre ville. La cuisine partagée est pratique. La moustiquaire est utile au dessus du lit car il y a beaucoup de moustiques à Bacalar. Luli met à disposition un bidon d'eau ce qui est très appréciable. Seul gros point noir, c’est l’absence de pression à la douche, obligés de se rincer en remplissant un seau d'eau. Par ailleurs il n'y a pas de "réelle" porte qui sépare la chambre de la salle de bain. Nous n'avons jamais vu Luli mais elle était très présente par message. La terrasse au milieu de la végétation est agréable. Du terminal ADO au logement nous avons pris un taxi pour 40 pesos. Comme ce taxi avait été honnête sur le prix (nous nous étions renseignés auparavant) nous avons décidé de l’utiliser à chaque fois que nous avions besoin d’un taxi à Bacalar. Voici son Whatapp : +52 983 184 3585

Lundi 13 juillet :

Nous avons fait une sortie bateau sur la lagune avec « Bacalar Francophone activités ». Nous n’étions que tous les 2 donc cela nous a coûté 3500 pesos. Si nous avions réussi à être 4 cela nous aurait coûté 1000 pesos par personne. Nous avons fait un tour privé de 4h sur la lagune avec Steeve et son bateau très confortable. Il est québecois donc parle un français parfait. Pendant ces 4 heures, Steeve nous a fait découvrir les différents lieux emblématiques de la lagune mais aussi des lieux où les autres bateaux ne vont pas. Il nous a raconté l'histoire de la Lagune. Il est aussi de bon conseil pour les lieux où aller et les restos où manger. En petit bonus une vidéo prise avec son drone lors de notre pause baignade.

Mardi 14 juillet :

Nous sommes allés à Los Rapidos en taxi (400 pesos aller retour) et entrée à 225 pesos par personnes. C’est très touristique mais c’est vraiment très beau. On peut y manger (cher), se reposer, faire autant de fois que l’on veut la descente des « rapides ». C’est intéressant si on y passe plusieurs heures. On ne peut pas y faire entrer nourriture et boissons, que l’on dépose à l’entrée et reprend à la sortie.

Mercredi 15 juillet :

Les mercredis, la navigation est interdite sur la lagune de Bacalar, nous avions donc prévu une autre excursion. Visite de Calakmul au départ de bacalar avec l’agence ABCtours ( Whatsapp +52 983 319 8359) Cette agence nous a organisé une excursion au départ de Bacalar et à destination de Calakmul avec un guide francophone. La communication avec l'agence a été très fluide en amont par whatsapp. Mr Checo le chauffeur et Fernando le guide qui parlait un très bon français sont venus nous chercher le jour dit. Mr Checo a conduit très prudemment sur cette longue route. Il s’est toujours assuré de notre confort. Fernando est passionné de faune et de flore. Il est biologiste, diplômé en ornithologie donc il est incollable sur les animaux. Le moindre bruit ou chant et il sait de quoi il s’agit . Il a l’oeil pour les repérer, des plus grands au plus petit . Lors du trajet nous nous sommes arrêtés au km 27 pour une petite balade en forêt, puis nous sommes ensuite allés voir les 2 principales pyramides du site . Au retour nous nous sommes arrêtés à la grotte aux chauves souris pour ce spectacle magique de plusieurs millions de chauves souris qui en sortent chaque jour à la tombée de la nuit . Au final nous avons vu ou aperçu furtivement pour certains, dans la foret, au bord de la route ou sur le site, des singes araignées, des singes hurleurs, un toucan , 2 tapirs , des dindons , 2 cervidés, des oiseaux . Si comme nous vous êtes très branchés faune et flore plus que archéologie je vous recommande cette agence et excursion avec Fernando. Le prix n’est effectivement pas donné, mais la route est très longue entre Bacalar et le site (3h30). Prix : 3900 pesos par personne pour 2 (3500 si 3 et 3200 si 4)

jeudi 16 juillet :

Trajet en bus ADO vers Playa Del Carmen (614 pesos par personnes) A playa Del Carmen, nous avons logé dans un logement loué sur Airbnb. L’immeuble est situé sur la place de la mairie, à côté du casino. Le gros plus de ce logement est qu’il est très bien situé, pas très loin de la quinta. Cuisine plus que sommaire mais un frigo qui marche bien. Des supermarchés sont disponibles à proximité. La piscine sur le toit terrasse de l'immeuble est très sympa. Par contre les 2 gros points négatifs sont l'insonorisation (on entend carrément le réveil du voisin, et toutes les animations sur la place) et l'absence totale de pression à la douche. Nous étions obligés de remplir une poubelle d’eau pour nous la verser dessus. Quand nous l'avons indiqué au propriétaire il nous a dit que cela n'était pas normal et que quelqu'un passerait régler le problème mais nous n'avons jamais eu de nouvelles. Au vu des précédents commentaires, le problème semble connu mais non réglé. Playa del Carmen est très touristique côté quinta avenida, mais dans une ambiance musicale et bon enfant ; nous ne nous sommes jamais sentis en insécurité. Énormément de petites boutiques de souvenirs pour touristes sur cette avenue. Jolie sculpture monumentale sur la plage (les deux personnages qui se rejoignent dans les airs), à coté de laquelle on peut voir le spectacle des Voladores (des hommes qui montent sur un mat, s’y accrochent les pieds par une corde, puis en descendent en tournant, en « volant » autour du mât, tête en bas. Spectacle au chapeau plusieurs fois par jour. Plus jolie que la quinta avenida à notre goût : la calle 38, végétalisée, luxuriante et plus calme que la quinta avenida, à découvrir en début de soirée, avec la mer au bout. Repas très bons et prix très raisonnables au tacos « El Tio Noy », à quelques mètres de la quinta avenida, dans une rue perpendiculaire. Pour vos souvenirs, nous vous conseillons d’aller au Walmart plutôt que sur la quinta, où vous trouverez à bons prix et fixes des têtes de mort, de la tequila, du mezcal, des portes clés, des mugs, des verres...

Vendredi 17 juillet :

Nous avons fait l’excursion vers Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy est une île non habitée très protégée. Seules 200 personnes peuvent y accoster par jour par roulement. Seules quelques compagnies ont donc le droit d’y accoster. La plupart des agences délèguent donc la journée à une agence tierce. Nous avons donc réservé via l’agence VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya) mais ce n’est pas cette agence qui assure la prestation mais Ocean Tours Mexico. L'île préservée de Contoy est un petit paradis . Nous avons été accompagnés par des guides multilingues et notamment francophones tout au long de la journée. Steffy nous a donné des renseignements sur l'île de Contoy lors d’une petite balade sur les chemins balisés de l’ile et Leño Tlatemoa a mis l'ambiance sur les trajets en bateau avec sa musique et ses danses . L'île de Contoy est vraiment magnifique et le repas du midi était succulent : poisson et poulet grillés, guacamole et totopos, riz, fruits, boissons (tout est apporté et repris par l’équipe des guides) La partie snorkeling est par contre assez décevante si vous en avez déjà fait à Cozumel par exemple. Le stop sur Isla Mujeres n’a pas trop d'intérêt non plus car trop court pour explorer l'île et c’est une île excessivement touristique. L'excursion a en tout cas était très bien organisée par cette agence et nous avons passés une très bonne journée (prix 2970 pesos par personne)

Samedi 18 juillet :

Nous voulions faire du snorkeling à Cozumel mais nous trouvions que les prix des agences francophonesvétait très chers. Par ailleurs, pour faire du snorkeling nous nous sommes dit qu’il n’y avait pas de nécessitévd’avoir des guides francophones. Nous avons donc trouvé une solution bien moins chère en prenant nous même le ferry à Playa Del Carmen etven choisissant une agence de Playa Del Carmen. Le ferry aller-retour nous a coûté 663,50 pesos parvpersonne. Nous avons ensuite pris un taxi pour rejoindre le bateau de snorkeling (100 pesos). L’agence quevnous avons choisi s’appelle Mystic Snorkel. Ils n’ont pas de locaux. La sortie nous a coûté 1400 pesos parvpersonne. Il s’agit d’un petit bateau mais ce jour là nous étions les seuls donc nous avons eu une sortie privéevau prix d’une sortie collective. Nous nous sommes arrêtés sur 4 sites différents. Ils étaient tous très différents les uns des autres et très jolis. Nous avons vu toutes sortes de poissons, de coraux, un requin nourrice et desvtortues. Le site El cielo avec ses énormes étoiles de mer est exceptionnel. Si vous devez faire du snorkelingvdans le péninsule du Yucatan c’est vraiment la sortie à faire car les autres sites sont assez « pauvres ».

Dimanche 19 juillet :

Matinée plongée avec Triton Diving. J’ai choisi l’option plongée sur Cozumel. Très bonne expérience. Réservation par whatsapp facile. Le jour des plongées c’est Selene, francophone, qui nous encadrait. Selenevest très attentive à la sécurité de son groupe . Les briefings sont clairs et précis. Sur Cozumel nous avons faitv2 sites très différents : le premier en plongée dérivante avec beaucoup de vie. De beaux coraux et poissons. Le deuxième était une épave, le C53, un bateau de 56 mètres dans lequel on peut pénétrer. Peu de vie, maisvune belle épave coulée exprès pour les plongeurs donc en très bon état. Un moment inoubliable. Selene avmême pris des vidéos durant la plongée, que le club transmet par la suite gratuitement. Je recommande cevclub.

Pour information à Playa Del Carmen les plages étaient remplies de sargasses pendant notre séjour, malgrévla présence de barrières et malgré le ramassage quotidien. Il semblerait que le problème soit inextricable etvque les sargasses arrivent de plus en plus tôt dans la saison. Des locaux nous ont dit que le tourisme en avaitvpris un sacré coup cet été et qu’ils se demandaient si le tourisme pourrait exister encore longtemps sur lavpériode des sargasses. Beaucoup de touristes traversent donc vers les îles pour aller profiter des plages d’Isla Mujeres et Cozumel, juste en face, dont ce côté (ouest) est épargné.

Lundi 20 juillet :

Trajet en colectivos pour Puerto Morelos. Un premier colectivo en direction de Cancun qui vous arrête entre Puerto Morelos village et Puerto Morelos plage (40 pesos par personne) et un autre de cet embranchement au bord de la route à Puerto Morelos plage (10 pesos par personne) A puerto Morelos, nous avions réservé via Airbnb une chambre dans l’établissement Piedra Del Caraïbe. Meilleur logement de nos vacances au Mexique. Il s’agit d’un appart hôtel. L'appart étant prêt avant l’heure du check in, on nous a autorisé à y entrer. Le logement était fidèle à la description, grand, spacieux, avec un lit King size confortable. La douche avait beaucoup de pression ce qui n’est pas une évidence au Mexique. Le personnel était très gentil et accueillant. Il nous ont permis de profiter de la piscine, des toilettes et de la douche sur le roof top, après le check out, et dans l'attente de l’heure de notre départ vers l'aéroport de Cancun pour notre vol retour. Ils ont même gardé nos bagages. Je recommande fortement cet établissement. A Puerto Morelos, il y avait beaucoup moins de sargasses qu’à Playa Del Carmen. Cela était un peu plus baignable. Nous avons fait la sortie snorkeling avec la coopérative des pécheurs pour 450 pesos par personnes durant 2 heures. Le récif est à proximité de la plage (il est interdit d’y aller à la nage) donc il y a très peu de temps de bateau. Ce n’est pas aussi joli qu’à Cozumel mais c’est sympathique et pas très cher. Sur la page de Puerto Morelos vous pouvez aussi accéder à un petit récif pas en très bon état. Il y a aussi un cénote dans la mer où l’eau douce se mélange avec l’eau salée. L’eau est trouble à cet endroit-là. Très bon dîner et excellents cocktails à « la choza del puerto ».

Mardi 21 juillet :

Flâneries dans puerto morelos (allez voir l’église et lisez bien tout ce qui est écrit, c’est divertissant!!), farniente à la piscine de l’hôtel et départ vers l’aéroport de Cancun en taxi (400 pesos) réservé par Indrive, pour rentrer en France.

Nos coups de coeurs : - Holbox - la sortie requin baleine - les cénotes - la flore et la faune locale très présente - Isla contoy - Cabo catoche hormis le snorkeling

Ce qui nous a le moins plu : - la bioluminescence (très peu visible malgré de bonnes conditions) - la nourriture que nous avons trouvé peu diversifiée dans les taquerias - les pourboires constants - le manque de pression dans les douches (fixes au mur, sans flexible et pommeau)

N’hésitez pas si vous avez des questions tant que c’est encore frais dans nos têtes.

Hi there,

On this forum, I shared my first trip to Tunisia from mid-February to early March (https://voyageforum.com/forum/impressions-tunisiennes-en-direct-d11460662/), a stay I enjoyed so much that six weeks later, I’m back in Tunisia for a full 15 days (I return on April 27).

This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.

In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.

Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while. When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).

The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing. The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.

I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.

Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.

The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).

At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.





TO BE CONTINUED....

...

" We’re ALL different, and so are our expectations when it comes to travel or leisure ". There are—without a doubt—as many ways to experience a trip as there are travelers!! For the two of us, it’s only our love of wild nature that guides us to East Africa. The stated goal of this trip was purely wildlife-focused, and NOT about discovering the country or its people.

...

Hello everyone,

Previously, I shared the account of a trip/safari in southern Tanzania in June 2024, in the Mikumi and Selous reserves.

This time, still in southern Tanzania, I invite you to join us in Ruaha National Park. (Then, depending on the number of images allowed in my quota, at the end of my story, we’ll return to Selous for the second part of the same trip.)

- This trip/safari took place in November 2022. - Our flight started in Marseille, heading to Addis Ababa, then Dar es Salaam (via Ethiopian Airlines). In Dar, we spent one night at a hotel near the airfield.

-1- During the layover in Addis Ababa. The Airbus A-350 in the early morning mist.



Reminder: Click on each image to enlarge it, if needed. .

From Dar es Salaam, if you want to go by road to Ruaha, it’ll take a very long and tiring day. 🤪

On previous trips, we’ve always taken a bush plane for this route. In this case, it took just over an hour and a half, with two short intermediate stops to drop off passengers at other bush airstrips.

Since I’m also passionate about aviation, I love these flights where you can admire the landscapes from low altitude while sitting right behind the pilot 🙂.

-2- These routes mainly use Cessna 208 Caravans.



At the Msembe airstrip, we’re greeted around 1:30 PM by a guide and a driver from our chosen lodge. They brought a picnic basket, which we enjoy at a nearby picnic area. We’re by the Ruaha River, completely dry—it’s scorching hot.

-3- The first mammals we encounter are a pair of female impalas, accompanied by a young male.



Reminder: Click on the image to view it in larger size. 😉

-4- To save the hippopotamus populations from certain death, rangers had to dig holes in the sand with bulldozers. Fortunately, water is present beneath the sand layer.



-5- This crocodile doesn’t seem to have been accepted as a swimming neighbor by the hippos...



We’ll explore along the river for 2-3 hours before crossing it at a ford toward the southern part of the reserve.

-6- The typical landscape of Ruaha, with its many baobabs.



-7- My buddy the R.L.B. is also here to welcome me.... 🙂 🙂



-8- As well as this little bee-eater... 😎



-9- ...which reminds us of the origin of its name...!



-10- Above a rare waterhole, a fish eagle keeps watch for fish...



...

*** Please wait until the end of the story for any questions or to share your own experiences in Ruaha. (Or via PM.) Thanks in advance for keeping this account smooth and enjoyable. 😉

...

*** I’m not an ornithologist, but birds are an important and unavoidable part of safari discoveries. You’ll find quite a few in the images of my story. 😎

...

Hi there,

My month in South Africa went really well. The itinerary revisits some places I’ve already seen—even a few times over...

Joburg – Marakele – Waterberg – Mapungubwe – Northern Kruger – Panorama Route – Southern Kruger – Eswatini (Hlane) – Maputaland (Sodwana Bay) – St Lucia – Joburg via Richards Bay.

I’ll skip some spots and focus on others.

Today’s topic: Marakele.

Back in 2009, I spent a day there, and since then... I’ve tried several times to go back.

The park isn’t very big—nowhere near as lush as Kruger—but it has a lot going for it. Even back then, there was a split between the western section, where you wouldn’t find any “dangerous” animals like elephants or buffalo (though rhinos were around), and the eastern section, the Big Five zone. Nowadays, the western part is open to mountain biking, and the campsite is completely unfenced, which pretty much confirms that the big animals aren’t there—no rhinos either (I didn’t see a single dung pile). The western section didn’t seem all that interesting to me... with vervet monkeys everywhere in the campsite. In the eastern part, there’s the Topli tented camp, right by a dam. It’s small but charming, with a great view and a loosely fenced perimeter (there are now lions and wild dogs in this area). No facilities—no restaurant, no pool (except at the campsite), no shop, no fuel, nothing...

View from the “chalet” terrace... nice and relaxed...



So, a terrace with a view for the lucky ones...



Bedroom and bathroom, separate and equipped kitchen. It can get windy. It must be cold in winter... but it’s hot this October.

Some lovely little roads... though some sections are 4x4-friendly.







A viewpoint at the top—you’re supposed to see the vulture colony from there... still haven’t seen it, as far as I’m concerned.



The animals?

Hello, We’re back from an amazing 18-day solo trip in the Sultanate of Oman. Here’s all the practical and useful info (I think). Flights with Oman Air from CDG Paris – on time – good meals – screen. **Phone**: I got the Oman pass from Orange for 29.99 € before leaving – valid for 30 days with 20GB – SMS, etc. Everyone uses WhatsApp there. **Car**: Booked with Travz Car Rental – 18 days – 175 rials – no deposit – delivered to the airport at P1, Level 1 – Tel. +968 9536 1234 – return at P1, Level 4 – all at your convenience and no waiting. I recommend, a brand-new sedan (1,300 km on the odometer) – enough for everything (even Jebel Shams but not Jebel Hajar and the desert). Fuel at 0.229 rials per liter and available everywhere, car wash for 1.5 rials. **Exchange**: We went near the Grand Mosque to exchange money at Unimoni – tel. +968 99326724 – the exchange rate is around 1%. **Hotels**: **Muscat**: Haffa House Hotel (Ruwi) – 54.09 rials – 3 nights with breakfast included – very good hotel – pool – I recommend, and lots of restaurants nearby. **TIWI**: Night at Tiwi Pearl – great welcome even though it wasn’t easy to find – 21.12 rials + breakfast – tel +968 98046446 – I recommend. **SUR**: Zaki Hotel – well located – breakfast and restaurant – tel. +968 79011186 – nice room – I recommend. **RAS AL HADD**: Super OYO 110 – located at the end of the track – tel. +968 93612026 – ask for rooms with a balcony on the 2nd floor – 17 rials with breakfast. **ROMAIL**: Oriental Nights – tel. +968 92896363 – 2 nights for 47 rials without breakfast (2 rials per person, while everywhere else it’s 1 to 1.5 max). The room is very nice. Avoid the food, which is poor and expensive for the country, but there’s nothing else around. **SINAW**: Ain Safnan – tel +968 90627212 – 16.17 rials without breakfast – nothing extraordinary, but there aren’t many choices. However, it’s very well located. **NIZWA**: Nima Guesthouse – very well located in the center – tel +968 90919095 – 2 nights for 45.05 rials + breakfast at 1.5 rials. **AL HAMRA**: Dar Al Hamra – 3 nights for 47.20 rials + breakfast at 1.5 rials – a peaceful haven in the middle of the palm grove with a pool. I recommend. **IZKI**: Cloudy Cloud – a bit isolated but a restaurant 2 minutes away – very nice room – tel. +968 95087776 – 20.08 rials per night. **SEEB**: Al Waves Hotel – 27 rials per night with breakfast – restaurant – 10 minutes from the airport, a very nice Thai/Chinese hotel – beautiful pool and terrace with sea views. That’s the essential info and quick contacts. For more, send me a private message. Happy travels! Jacquesler

Hi everyone,

After using this forum a lot to plan several trips, I’m finally writing my own travel journal about South Africa, a trip that took place from May 14 to 31, 2025. I hope to inspire but mostly to share info and details for those like me who need to plan their trip as precisely as possible to make the most of it once there.

This is our first trip to Africa outside the Maghreb for my wife and me. What follows is, of course, just my opinion and very subjective. You’ll easily understand that my goal isn’t to debate my choice of destinations or activities since everyone has their own travel style and beliefs. I just want to share. Thanks in advance.

We booked our tickets with Emirates for the routes: Lyon-Dubai, Dubai-Johannesburg on the way out. For the return, it was Cape Town-Dubai, Dubai-Lyon. The tickets cost us 1400 € for two, booked in December. I monitored prices for several weeks, and they didn’t tend to drop. I think I got the flight tickets at the right time because alerts I set on different sites showed prices only going up.

Here’s our itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival at Johannesburg airport, pick up the rental car, and head to Hartbeespoort (northwest of Pretoria): overnight in Hartbeespoort. Day 2: Visit the Elephant Sanctuary + Monkey Sanctuary + cableway: overnight in Hartbeespoort. Day 3: Head to Ukutula, visit the site. Day 4: Head to Kruger Park, transition day: overnight in Dullstroom. Day 5: Head to Blyde River Canyon, visit the viewpoints (more details in the journal later): overnight in Graskop. Day 6: Hike the Leopard Trail (Blyde River Canyon) then return to Kruger Park: overnight at Pretoriuskop rest camp. Days 7 & 8: Visit Kruger Park: overnights at Lower Sabie rest camp. Days 9 & 10: Visit Kruger Park: overnights at Berg-En-Dal rest camp. Day 11: Visit Kruger Park: overnight in Malelane. Day 12: Domestic flight to Cape Town: overnight in Cape Town (Mouille Point neighborhood). Days 13 to 17: Visit Cape Town and its surroundings (more details in the journal later): overnight in Cape Town (Mouille Point neighborhood).

Before describing our trip in more detail, here’s some practical info about the stay:

For internet, I got Bouygues Telecom’s travel pass for 35 € on top of my regular plan with them. It worked well except in Kruger. Otherwise, I hardly had any network coverage issues. For all accommodations and car rentals, I used Booking.com. No bad surprises.

Back from a week in the Algarve.

The goal was to get some fresh air, walk at a relaxed pace (80 km in 6 days), and visit friends.

Transavia flight: No issues YorCar rental: No issues (and cheap) B&B 1: Quinta do Mocho Turismo Rural in Estoy: Good, even if a bit remote B&B 2: Casa Luma B&B in Lagos: Disappointed (and really disappointed with room #3)

Day 1: Flight, rental car, stop at São Lourenço in Almancil, and visit to Loulé Day 2: Olhão, walk at Praia do Barril, Tavira, and evening in Faro’s old town (park at São Francisco parking lot) Day 3: Walk on the boardwalks at Quinto do Ludo, Falesia beaches, Carvoeiro Day 4: The boardwalks in Alvor, Praia da Rocha in Portimão, Ferragudo, and the boardwalks around Algar Seco Day 5: Ponta da Piedade in Lagos, walk to Praia de Luz from Praia Camilho Day 6: Burgau, Cape Sagres, Cape St. Vincent, Carrapateira, and Praia da Bordeira Day 7: "Sete Vales Suspensos" hike from Marinha Beach

Our highlights: - The Vincentine Coast (Carrapateira), much nicer than the concrete of the southern coast - The fish restaurants and Cataplana (A Barrigada in Lagos, Ribeira do Poço in Vila do Bispo...) - The boardwalks everywhere (Quinto do Ludo, Alvor, Algar Seco...) - The sun on the cliffs and Falesia Beach (it’s the local Bryce Canyon) - Chatting with the fishermen perched on the cliffs of Carrapateira - The weather (we were lucky for early March)

Our disappointments: - The towns and villages (Tavira and Lagos stand out) - The traffic off the highway - The English, the English, and more English everywhere

Quick recap of a getaway to Sicily (June 3–13, 2022).

Day 1: Transavia flight to Palermo from Lyon Day 2: Zingaro Reserve (14 km coastal trail round-trip, about 4 hours of hiking + coves) / Evening in Scopello Day 3: Segesta + Erice via cable car + evening in Trapani (free parking at Piazza Vit. Emmanuele) Day 3: Bike day in Favignana (Cala Rosa, Cala Azzurra) Day 4: Marsala (quick stop at the salt flats), Selinunte, and sleepover in Agrigento Day 5: Day in Agrigento: Valley of the Temples, Temple of Concordia, Temple of Hercules, Temple of Juno, Temple of Castor and Pollux Day 6: Villa Romana del Casale and Cefalù in the late afternoon Day 7: Relaxing beach day in Cefalù Day 8: Mosaics in Monreale Cathedral, then Palermo Day 9: Palermo Day 10: Return to Lyon

8 days on the ground covering 650 km, scorching heat all week (37°C in Zingaro), and a ridiculously expensive car rental (Sicily by Car).

Some truly great accommodations:

- Tre Giummare in Scopello (despite the AC breaking down the night before) - Laurus Apartments in Trapani (perfect for the Favignana ferry) - Terrazze di Montelusa in Agrigento (worth seeing—very unique!) - Rurale, Via Lancenia 22 in Cefalù (for the pool view!) - Il Giardino di Ballarò in Palermo (charming and right in the heart of the city)

Our top picks:

- Favignana (by far the highlight of the trip) - The temples in Agrigento - Palermo - The food here is amazing

No real disappointments, but Erice didn’t quite live up to expectations, and we were frustrated by the car rental prices.

Side note: make sure to specify that your card is a *credit* card (not debit). Ours was a deferred debit card, and our bank had the sense to label it "credit card"—otherwise, you’d be on the hook for an extra 200 €... those Southern Italians!

Hike in Zingaro:







Segesta:

Just back from a week on Nosy Boraha, better known as Île Sainte-Marie. Mostly on Île aux Nattes, actually, at the very south of the island—literally just a few hundred meters from Sainte-Marie’s airport. Far east of Madagascar, and if you keep going straight, you’ll hit Australia.

We flew in through that airport to avoid a long, rough road trip before and after Tamatave, plus a boat ride that could be short or long (boat time was inversely proportional to the bus ride to the port for the Sainte-Marie ferry). No issues with Tsaradia—departures and returns were on time, service was impeccable, and the ATR plane was smooth. Too bad the prices are so high. We managed a change due to a delayed Kenya Airways flight.

First, we stayed in the northern half, on the west coast of the island, at Natiora Green Lodge. The place is absolutely stunning—a little cove opening onto a small bay dotted with rocky outcrops under lush vegetation. The bungalows are practically on the beach, in a gorgeous, forested setting alive with birdsong. It’s the perfect spot for a pirate crew and just begs for daydreaming. No reef barrier, so it gets deep pretty quickly, but the rocks have healthy coral and plenty of small fish. Great snorkeling—we even saw a turtle. Really, really nice. The only downside is that it’s a bit far from the island’s center and kinda isolated, so eating anywhere but the hotel or going for a walk without a rental car or tuk-tuk is tricky. Not impossible, but harder than if you’re somewhere livelier.

Next, we moved to Île aux Nattes at Baboo Village, which overlooks the channel between Nosy Boraha and Nosy Nato. The bungalows are right on the water, nicely and simply decorated, with a restaurant and terrace right next door. You get to the hotel directly by pirogue from Sainte-Marie’s "embarcadère"—it takes 2-3 minutes, or a little longer if the motor’s acting up. The owner is super friendly and welcoming, with a relaxed, "family/friendly" vibe. There are often a few lemurs in the hotel’s park, adding life to the place, and the vegetation is beautiful once again. The path that circles the island starts right at the hotel entrance, making it easy to reach the island’s dock and the different beaches on the west, east, or even south. Several restaurants are within walking distance, and nothing’s far by pirogue anyway. You can also find the island’s "center" with a few small shops for basic supplies or a meal at a hotely. Since there’s no electricity on the island, the generator at the hotel runs from 6 PM to 10 PM, but you can charge your phone anytime by leaving it at reception. Kayaks are free to use and great for exploring—the whole island is doable, even if you’re not an expert. Just take your time. The upside of Île aux Nattes and Sainte-Marie’s east coast is the reef barrier and lagoon (unlike the west side), which means those gorgeous water colors, accessible coral, and shallow swimming spots. The only downside of Baboo for me, since I love snorkeling, is its location right on the channel. Personally, I prefer the south side of Île aux Nattes (near the Aurora) or the east side (like Kintana) for the lagoon views and easier snorkeling (though my wife didn’t agree). But as I said, those spots are still super easy to reach from Baboo. The west side’s okay, but I like it less—except for the view of Madagascar and the sunset. Again, totally subjective.

On Sainte-Marie, we didn’t try any restaurants other than Natiora’s. Not a ton of options, but it was fine. We weren’t fans of Chez Nono in Baie d’Ampanihy—overpriced for the tiny portions. Sure, the crab was good, but there was so little of it for the price. A bit of a rip-off, since crabs are everywhere and can’t cost much for Nono. On Île aux Nattes, there are plenty of little restaurants. We tried three—Chez Adelaide, La Buvette, and Coco Sud—and every time, we had fish or seafood, and it was always good and generous, with great achards. Prices were very reasonable.

Of course, we soaked up the time, the light, the beauty of the place, the sounds, the smells... just chilling in full *tranquillou billou* mode.

We also did some activities. Snorkeling—I’ll come back to it. In 2019, I thought it was a disaster, with no nice spots and really disappointing. This year, I jumped in everywhere I could and tested spots I’d spotted on Maps or during my last trip. And it was *really* good. Mostly on Île aux Nattes: the south side near the sacred islet, west in front of Kintana, west north of the channel (especially the sand islets), and on Sainte-Marie at Natiora’s rocks. Lots of healthy coral and plenty of fish typical of the area. If you’re into big fish, this isn’t the place, but if you love coral and little critters, it’s awesome. Snorkeling outside the reef was disappointing again, and diving was too. Unless you get lucky, it’s not worth it, in my opinion.

The tour of Île aux Nattes with a meal included was great—perfect for taking breaks whenever you find a pretty spot to snorkel or just relax on a nice beach.

A trip to the sand islets was also really fun. You can’t stay long because it gets super hot, and you’re at the mercy of the tides. There’s a good flock of terns that probably nest there. The coral reefs on the east side of the islet are gorgeous. Really, really nice. Plus, the islets themselves are just stunning.

We chose to go to Ampanihy via the lagoon, hugging the shore—it’s beautiful, with amazing colors, a wilder coastline than the west, and views of seaweed farms. It’s a long trip, though, and at Ampanihy, there’s a pretty beach (but there are tons elsewhere) and a nice mangrove. Maybe it’s better to go by road to the bay and take a boat to explore the lagoon and stop somewhere without going all the way to Ampanihy, saving yourself 2 hours of boat time round-trip. Once there, you can take a little pirogue tour to the beach and through the mangrove. The way we did it, the trip wasn’t essential. As I said, Chez Nono was disappointing—bring a picnic or try Chez Samson instead.

Of course, we visited the pirate cemetery, a place I love even though there’s not much left to see—just a few graves, unfortunately, and some vandalism. The site is still magical, though, and you can let your thoughts drift with La Buse and William Kidd, who passed through here.

We organized all our outings with Crépin, who runs two small boats with his brother. We met him totally by chance, but we don’t regret it. We could adjust the trips based on what we wanted—where to stop or which spot to visit next—and Crépin handled the meals. Prices were super affordable for a full day. I can share his number if you want. We didn’t try anyone else, but I’m sure there are other great operators—I just can’t compare or recommend.

Good prep for anyone looking for an alternative to Nosy Be. Way fewer activities, sure, but also way fewer people and a really nice vibe on Sainte-Marie in general, and Île aux Nattes in particular. The beaches are more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, and there’s a reef and lagoon (it *is* the pirate island, after all). And in whale season, well, the whales.

All in all, a great place to stay for a trip.

Back on the forum, I’m starting to write up two 3-week trips to Kenya in August 2021 and 2023. In 2021, Quynh and I traveled with Régis (Rjulie95 on VF). Our son joined us in Baringo for the second half of the trip. In 2023, we went with two friends who’d been dreaming of seeing wild animals ever since we got back from Kenya. We didn’t need much convincing to go with them!

The two itineraries are almost identical (well, when you love something...) but we did make a few tweaks.

- The first part of the trip was with a local driver/guide, Félix, who was recommended by Sylvie56. Sylvie and her husband Ben are Kenya enthusiasts—they’ve been there countless times, always with Félix... and for good reason! He’s fantastic!

- The second part was with Melting Pot Safari, an agency that adapted to our photography needs. Tony Crocetta, the co-founder (along with his Kenyan friend Simon Chebon), is a wildlife photographer himself.

Here are the itineraries for both trips, including accommodations:

In 2021: Day 0: Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 2: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 3: Amboseli / Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 4: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 5: Aberdares - Fishing Lodge Day 6: Aberdares / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 7: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 8: Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 9: Samburu / Nakuru - Merica Hotel Day 10: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 11: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 12: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 14 to 18: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 19: Maasai Mara / Nairobi – Roussel Guest House Day 20: Nairobi / Paris

In 2023: Day 0: Lyon / Paris / Nairobi - 67 Airport Hotel Day 1: Nairobi / Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 2: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 3: Meru - Ikweta Camp Day 4: Meru / Samburu - Riverside Camp Day 5: Samburu – Riverside Camp Day 6: Samburu / Buffalo Springs – Samburu Simba Day 7: Buffalo Springs / Ol Pejeta – Sweetwater Camp Day 8: Ol Pejeta / Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 9: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 10: Amboseli - Simba Cottage Day 11: Amboseli / Nakuru – Lake Nakuru Lodge Day 12: Nakuru / Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 13: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 14: Baringo - Tumbili Cliff Lodge Day 15: Baringo / Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 16 to 20: Maasai Mara – Meltingpot Bush Camp Day 21: Maasai Mara / Nairobi / Paris

Here’s an itinerary—it’s not exactly what we did, but a combination of both.



Ready to join us on safari to see some wild animals?

Bonjour, De retour sur le forum - et première rédaction d'un espèce de carnet de retour de notre 4ème voyage en Indo.

Contexte : une trentaine de jours, en scooter et en duo, sur Florès (et une petite incursion dans l'archipel de Solor, plus précisément à Lembata (chut, faut pas trop en parler !!!), qui donne envie d'en faire beaucoup plus là bas malgré les infrastructures sporadiques), en partie dans des destinations déjà bien connues du forum (la classique Ruteng / Bajawa / Riung / Moni voir baie de Maumere) ... et qui ne parlera pas du PN de Komodo ou de Wae Rebo, puisque nous n'y sommes pas allés 🏴‍☠️.

Texte en anglais (issu d'une autre plateforme). Sans nul doute, des traducteurs intelligents ou pas marcheront à merveille en cas d'anglophobie 🤪.

Disponible à toute fin utile pour des détails ou infos.

Equippement : Yam' Nmax 155 ; 2x saccoches cavalières (25L) + sac de selle (30L) + saccoche tunnel (15L pour le matos photo) ; casques et vêtements d'enduro amenés depuis la France.

Itinéraire : boucle depuis Labuan bajo jusqu'à Pulau Lembata ; juillet-août 2026

Road conditions graded from A (excellent) to D (very bad, at least for a Scooter… a CRF/KLX or even honda ADV would do better on that) D1 : Labuan Bajo – Reok via Ranggoe, Rego & Tagol (130km ; 5hrs). Section LBajo – Rego (90 km ; B) is quite good tarmac, despite a lot of elevation with many small valleys and passes. Rego – Tagol (10km ; D) is a stone road (not gravel), some ascents & very poor condition ; necessary to lower tyre pressure. Tagol – Reok port (22km, quality depends considerably from D to B). Reok port – Towncenter : B. Night @Iffah Homestay (100k for fan room, mandi attached, no breakfast), simple but clean. Notes : path to danau Sano Limbung was closed ; access to Tiwu Pai & Wae Kuli (waterfalls) not permitted in july 2026. D2 : Reok – Riung via Pota (105km ; 3h-3h30). The road is very narrow in some part, thanks to the uncut bushes (lowering visibility hence extra caution as animals/people can suddenly appear in a turn…) but generally good condition except many eroded sections and some unpaved ones. Grade C/B. 2 nights @Mentos (285k for AC room) D3 : Boat tour in Riung (booked directly with a captain, 800k for two for private boat incl. lunch and NP fees) + sunset from Watu Mitong Riung (should not be missed). D4 : Riung – Muku Saki via Mbay (around 100km ; 3h30). Quality varies from A in the vicinity of Mbay to eroded sections (C) in secluded places. Night @Sao Paolo Homestay (250k for fan room with mandi, maybe overpriced but nice house and great food). Note : if you happen to pass by Mbay on Saturday, the market is well worth a stop (cheapest Ikat on the trip : you’ll be asked normal prices providing you’re OK in Bahasa…) D5 : Muku Saki – Tanjung Kajuwulu (near Ndete) (90km, 3h). Many patholes, eroded (C). Night at Déjà Vu Homestay (220k for a matress on the floor & outside mandi/toilets ; I woud define this as a tourist trap – the quote we had for food was double priced too…) D6 : Tanjung Kajuwulu – Waiterang (east of Maumere, 55km , 1h30). Pathholes till maumere, then All good (TransFlores), C/A. Night at Sunset Cottage (new concrete room, very serene place ; 270k for AC with bathroom ; much prefered Sunset over Lena House (more customers, more built up). D7 : Waiterang – Larantuka via Boru and Eputobi (TransFlores ; grade A ; 115km / 2h40). Particularly liked the drink stalls (marked as Rest Area Eputobi) and the out of order aquatic park just before Larantuka (obyej wisata waiplatin). Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay, which is not advertising itself as Larantuka Beach Homestay as some contributor signals here and on goole maps review. Best breakfast of the trip (Cumi Cumi !!!) ; 275k for AC room with bathroom. D8 : Local Boat (Kapal Kayu) from the main port to Lembata (Lewoleba). Departure 8am ; price 60k/head + 50k for the bike. Stop enroute on Adonara (where we did not stop due to fights between communities). Night @Elmany Homestay (275k for AC room with bathroom, fan room with shared bathroom also available). Whole afternoon at Pantai Hadakewa, fantastic place (good snorkeling, great views of Ile Api aka Gn Lewotolo). Road condition : A (did not expect the TransLembata to be that good…). D9 : Loop around Ile Api (50km, 2hrs), anticlockwise. Stops enroute at Situs Tulang Paus (whale squeletton), pantai Jotona, pantai Wena (we expected to snorkel from there, but wind was very strong that day), situs Watu Nale, Selat Sonia. The western coast is far less interesting. Road conditions : bad (C) on the eastern side (up to Riangbeda), good (B/A) afterwards. Night @Elmany Homestay. D10 : Lewoleba – Lamalera via the western and south coast (70km, 2h30). Good road (B) for roughly the first 55km (up to Tapobali), then eroded track for the last 15km (in some parts steep and dangerous) up to Lamalera (D/C). Notes : 1/ Kuma resort denied us the entry for some drink ; 2/Pantai Waijarang « complex » is abandonned but closed with fences ; you can still sneak in ; 3/ some reports advise to skip Bukit Cinta (foreigner entry fee) for Bukit Doa Watomiten (stations of the cross) ; well Bukit Cinta has also been abandonned (well spent money…sic) but remains opened with structures falling (quickly) appart. Night @Lamalera Inn (200k per head including meals ; very basic fan room + attached mandi). Planned 2 nights, spent only one, as it’s the only tenant I had difficulties with (only interested in money, initially stated crazy prices, starts loud music at 6am … and drinking moke at 8am…) D11 : Trip to Wulandoni for the Barter Market (Saturday only). Bad road (C) along the coast. Had to report at the Kantor upon arrival, which quite surprisingly asked 100k per person (foreigner) to go inside the (outside) market. Other « local » tourists (a group from Jakarta) were not asked to pay. Well, since a market is a public space and not a zoo, we refused payment and enjoyed the activity from the kopi stall next to it. Returned then to Lamalera for the catches of the day, then to Lewoleba via the mountain road (45km, 2 hours). First 10km to Puor is in very bad condition and uphill (D/C). The remaining is on a newly constructed road (A). Note : Air Panas Sabutobo is abandonned and falling apart (again…) but there are still some water pipes along the river that you can enjoy (depending how lucky you are, just with the forest sounds as companion). Night @Elmany Homestay D12 : Chill day alond the northern coast (Batu Payung, Pantai Hadakewa with lot of snorkeling, drove till Wailolong and backtracked to Pantai Lewolein for more snorkeling (nice canyons there !) and another fantastic sunset over Ile Api (see GMaps pictures)). Night @Elmany Homestay D13 : Monday weekly market at Pada, southwest of Lewoleba. Renowned but honnestly dont plan any itinerary specifically for it, just an ordinary Kampung weekly market. Returned to Larantuka and Flores with the 12pm local boat (the same boat that leaves from Larantuka at 8am). Same prices as the first leg. Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay D14 : Larantuka – Waiterang along the northern coast (100km, 3h) via Pantai Kawaliwu, Tewuk Lewokluok (trail is easy to find, very nice snorkelling in a lagoon), Pantai Lato (to my opinion the most beautiful beach on Flores and you’ll be the only visitor, as opposed to Pantai Koka) and Pantai Hia, until rejoining the TransFlores near Nebe. Grade C on the costal eroded road / track. 3 nights @Lena Guesthouse (booked ahead as it fills up quickly, but we prefered its neighbour Sunset Beach Guesthouse) D15 : Snorkeling trip organised by Lena Guesthouse (200k per head excluding NP fees and lunch)). The drop-off near Pulau Babi is a very nice spot. D16 : scooter day trip around the Egon Range (too lazy to hike it…), through nice Sikka villages (route : Watublapi, Umauta, Bola, pantai Doreng, Nakatoli, foot of Gn Egon, Air panas Blidit). The track from Natakoli to the foot of Gn Egon is very steep, damaged and wet (with moss) ; I would recommend not to attempt that in case of bad weather. D17 : Waiterang – Moni (130km, 3h30, transflores grade A/B) via Pantai Koka (refused to pay the mafia entry fee…) and Jopu (some rumah Adat Lio). Stopped at Museum Bikon Blewut, south of Maumere. Very nice artefacts (especially wooden statues from Papuan, great ikat collection) although very disorganized and sadly non-visited (hence masterpieces fall into oblivion). 2 Nights @Liahz Lodge (150k for fan room, basic bathroom… but right next to Air Panas Liasembe (free, no closing time) !!!). D18 : Sunrise from Kelimutu with a nice weather (stayed until 8.30am). I don’t know if the sunrise is really worth it (lot of people ascending and watching the sunrise – a lot but nothing compared to e.g. Gn Bromo), nearly everyone going down around 7am, then there is virtually nobody. Trip (20km one way, good road B) to Kampung Adat Nggela (Lio). Although the village is habited and mostly out of the beaten path, I have mixed fillings due to the fact that most ladies (some are pushy) try to sell you (bad) pieces of ikat. D19 : Moni – Ende via Detusoko paddy fields, Kampung Adat Saga (Lio) and Puncak Ndona ; 75km 2h30. We really liked Saga (nice setting on the mountain, friendly villagers, no selling, mix between traditional and more modern houses in that lively village). Sunset from Bukit Raja, on the peninsula with a 360 view on Gn Iya, Gn Meja Kota Ende and the mountains behind. Note : at the end of the road (search for Gunung Meja Tourist Info Center), there is a (sand) track leading to the path. 1/ only intend the track if you have off road driving experience ; 2/ dont trust the walking time stated by Maps.me. Took us 45mins on a steady pace to reach the summit. Night @Hoja Homestay, 300k for a comfortable AC room with bathroom. D20 : Ende – Bajawa, via Air Panas Mengeruda ; grade A, 120km, 3 hours. Note : don’t plan to short in Mengeruda (Soa), very easy to spend a half day there, especially if playing with local kids. Stay @Cinnamon GH, 250k for double with fan and hot shower (cheaper options with shared hot shower availlable). D21 : First day in Bajawa : Watu Nari Wowo (Avatar Hill, sic…), Kampung Adat Ngada Tololela & Gurusina (very very friendly people, complementary views of Gn Inerie & Wolo Deru). Sunset from Puncak Manulalu (well… Heaven’s door Bar & Restaurant) D22 : Second day in Bajawa : Kampung Adat Ngio (hardly visited, best view on Gn Inerie), Air Panas Malanage, Kampung Adat Bena (the most visited Ngada village (after Bela ?) in the area, we went there at the end of the afternoon to avoid tours, early morning would be fine too), and Gunung Wolobobo for a terrific sunset D23 : returned to Gunung Wolobobo for sunrise with Gn Ebulobo in the distance (search for a track on the eastern slope, near the communication antenna). You can circuit the rim to the usual viewpoint (westside, sunset spot), the path is easy to find. Then took again the road to Aimere, visiting Kampung Adat Belaraghi enroute (the setting is maybe less rewarding than all the previous villages). 56km ; 1h30. The road to Belaraghi is fine, except the final part. D24 : Aimere – Ruteng (105km, 3h30). Nice detour by the paddy fields of Wodo (southwest of Golo Loni) of Sunset from Golo Curu (nice encounters with locals). Night @Tange GH, 130k for room with outside (private) bathroom, no breakfast. D25 : Surroundings of Ruteng (paddy fields north and east of ruteng ; Maps.me has funny tracks starting from Kenda), and the rather pleasant city itself (pasar, churches, lapangan). We finally skipped Liang Bua. D26 : Ruteng - Labuan Bajo (130km, 3h30). No visits of the waterfalls close to the TransFlores (entry fee (with bule prices) + mandatory guide etc…). Sunset from Bukit Hercadi with very few locals (Bukit Sylvia & Bukit Amelia, just south, were packed). 2 nights @Wellamas Homestay, away from the harbour and its advantages/disadvantages. 230k for comfortable AC room with hot shower. D27 : New road to Golo Mori Convention Center (another big money well spent…), with nice views on the strait separating Flores from Pulau Rinca. Some empty beaches (e.g. Pantai Pasir Pajang ; we were there on a weekday perhaps frequented by people from LBajo only). 30km (40 mins) one way, perhaps the fastest road of Flores… D28 : Morning on the peninsula north of Labuan Bajo before taking a flight to Jakarta in the afternoon. On Google maps, the asphalt road only goes to Teras Langit ; it now (august 2026) continues to Puncak Basok and is still in progress towards the eastern part of the peninsula. On the way back, two other nice Bukit where you can enjoy nice views on the bay (and the resorts…) : Bukit Lontar & Bukit Beta. Note : we only found one public (and nice and quiet) beach in the area ; tagged as Sunset Point Beach on Gmaps. All the rest was closed by fences ; they are privately owned (although the Indonesian consitution grants the coastline as public space).

Hey fellow travelers,

I'm back in the "travel journal" section to share our 15-day adventure in Kenya in November 2024. It was pretty much our first time in East Africa (since Zanzibar doesn’t really count 😜).

As usual, I’m sharing the journal I made for our loved ones—still as casual and cheerful as ever, just to give them a little break from their tough workdays 😄.

We organized the whole trip ourselves, and to be original here LOL, we took some *very* well-trodden paths: Naivasha, Tsavo, and Diani. But what I loved about this country is that it’s so easy to go off the beaten track—even on the "tourist highways" 😉.

So, if you're a safari fanatic or after stunning wildlife photos, you might be disappointed. But if you want to discover other sides of Kenya, you might just find what you're looking for 😉.

Looking forward to sharing this fun journey with you all 😊.

Hi everyone!

I’m just back from two weeks in southern Kazakhstan. I went with a friend, and we organized everything ourselves. We came back absolutely enchanted by the trip: stunning landscapes, lots of animals spotted in the parks, and above all, amazing hospitality and a warm welcome.