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Qui connaît le site de Mapungubwe en Afrique du sud?
Bonjour,
D'après ce que j'ai lu, il s'agit des vestiges archéologiques d'une cité du XIIIème siècle, au nord de la province du Limpopo à la frontière de l'Afrique du sud, du Botswana et du Zimbabwe. Le site se trouve dans le parc national du même nom qui a été récemment ouvert au public. Est-ce que quelqu'un peut m'en dire plus sur l'intérêt du site et plus généralement de la province du Limpopo ?
Merci d'avance.
Emmanuelle
Emmanuelle
Victoria Falls
bonjour,
nous allons en avril à Victoria falls et Hwange park. Nous n'avons réservé que les billets et la voiture (à Victoria falls). avez vous des informations sur la situation politique actuel avez vous des adresses d'hôtel à victoria falls comment réserver (adresse, email, fax?) pour Hwange Park possibilité de payer en CB?
merci pour les renseignements🙂
nous allons en avril à Victoria falls et Hwange park. Nous n'avons réservé que les billets et la voiture (à Victoria falls). avez vous des informations sur la situation politique actuel avez vous des adresses d'hôtel à victoria falls comment réserver (adresse, email, fax?) pour Hwange Park possibilité de payer en CB?
merci pour les renseignements🙂
Quel itinéraire pour 15 jours en Afrique du Sud?
Bonjour,
je prépare mon futur voyage de 15j en Afrique du sud avec mon homme et mon fils qui aura alors 2ans et demi.
Je pensais prendre un vol sec et location de voiture ensuite maison d'hôtes de charme.
Avez-vous des idées d'itinéraires, des bonnes adresses et des conseils??
merci
milie
je prépare mon futur voyage de 15j en Afrique du sud avec mon homme et mon fils qui aura alors 2ans et demi.
Je pensais prendre un vol sec et location de voiture ensuite maison d'hôtes de charme.
Avez-vous des idées d'itinéraires, des bonnes adresses et des conseils??
merci
milie
Ryanair et sa politique vis à vis de ses clients
Bonjour,
Juste pour avoir le sentiment des membres sur Ryanair et sa politique vis à vis de ses clients. Les retards sont courants maintenant sa nouvelle pratique consiste en l'annulation des vols sans explications: un vol réservé, payé deus semaine plus tard on reçoit un mail de la compagnie qui annule le vol sans considération pour tous les frais occasionnés ( réservations avec accomptes d'hotels ou de location, de véhicules à l'arrivée sans évoquer le reste.
Y a t il un moyen pour influencer ces pratiques abusives!!!
Uganda: 20 days discovering authenticity
Preamble:
For summer 2019, the idea was to return to Africa. We had already been to Namibia in 2017 (+ a few days in Botswana and the end of the trip at Victoria Falls), which we loved, and a trip to Asia in 2018 (Borneo, Perhentian, and Singapore), a nature-focused trip but a bit disappointing due to environmental destruction. The desire to return to Africa was very strong. We wanted a change of scenery, nature, discoveries, to step out of our little comfort zone (a bit, anyway!) and experience travel differently. In short, we dreamed of authenticity, and we weren’t disappointed.
We traveled as a family of four with our daughters, aged 19 and 17. When the urge for Africa hit, Uganda quickly stood out, especially for the chance to see rare animals, particularly the famous mountain gorillas. When I looked into the budget, I was quickly disheartened. It’s really expensive. Too expensive… Then, after reading a few trip reports on "VoyageForum" (thanks Muriel J!), I decided to ask a local agency for a quote. The first contact was very friendly and responsive, and the initial offer for two weeks fit our budget :). A few images gathered from the internet (especially Sipi Falls) finally convinced us all. I asked for an adapted offer with a few more sites to extend the trip to three weeks and cover a fairly complete visit to the country (which, of course, increased the budget! To stay within an acceptable range, we prioritized activities over accommodations and regularly chose the cheapest options, with 2-3 nice lodges in between). It’s booked! We were in October 2018, and the first thing to do was reserve permits to see the gorillas and chimpanzees. Then, the agency took care of all the bookings except for the international flights, which we booked with Ethiopian Airlines. A few months of waiting to look forward to… and a little worry too! Two events didn’t reassure us: the kidnapping of an American tourist by four men at the DRC border and the Ebola outbreak in Congo, with confirmed cases in Uganda by mid-June…
Here we are in July, and departure is approaching. The suitcases are packed (warm clothes, long, short, dark, light, practical, sun, rain, hiking/trekking shoes, flip-flops—clothes for every situation! Don’t forget: headlamp (essential!), binoculars, cameras), and we’re ready.
One day before departure, our agency Mpolampola, through its manager Paul, informs us that he won’t be the one taking care of us during the trip but another guide named Moses. He has a big problem with a vehicle and can’t do otherwise. For us, as long as everything is okay, no worries, especially since I had read glowing reviews about Moses, who turned out to be a very pleasant guide, cautious (most important) on the road, clear about all the activities, and an expert on birds, his specialty. We briefly met Paul in the middle of the trip, who is also very friendly. In short, we 100% recommend this agency. Flights to Entebbe went smoothly; we arrived around 10:30 AM, filled out health forms (Ebola information signs everywhere), visas, baggage claim, and met Moses, who took us directly to the vehicle. It was in pretty good condition with huge tires (we’d understand why later!), but it had quite a few miles (400,000 on the odometer!). Just missing a seatbelt… Okay, it’s Africa!
Now, here’s our day-by-day itinerary, which I’ll summarize briefly with ratings for each activity: ****TOPISSIME (Amazing) ***Very good **Good *Meh
Day 1) Departure from the airport at 11:45 AM for some currency exchange. Stop along the way at the equator for a meal and souvenir photo! Arrival at Lake Mburo Park *** around 5:00 PM. Even before entering the park, we saw lots of antelopes, zebras, elks, etc.—it’s magnificent. On the way, we had already encountered many goats and cows, and we were impressed by their enormous horns. We enjoyed a nice game drive until about 7:00 PM, when we reached our lodge, one of the nicest of the trip, Eagle’s Nest ****, with a magnificent view, a tent with a nice bathroom/shower, and a very good meal.
Day 2) Departure at 7:00 AM for a game drive; we encountered many animals again, especially antelopes, zebras, and birds. There are no giraffes, lions, or cheetahs in this park. We didn’t get lucky enough to see a leopard… :-) Then, we continued to Lake Bunyonyi ***, where the road and views are very beautiful, but we were shocked to see locals (mostly women and children) breaking stones by hand on the mountainside in very precarious safety conditions. There are regularly dramatic accidents because, over time, entire sections detach and cause landslides. These stones are then used for road construction… Another world… This was the only place we saw this. Lake Bunyonyi is a nice stop (but less exotic in our opinion since we have many lakes back home too!). We took a boat to our accommodation, Byoona Amagara ***, which has a lot of charm. We stayed in huts called "geodomes," completely open to nature, so it was very cool at night. To reach the toilets located below, you had to be brave! The meal consisted of lake shrimp—good but a bit bland.
Day 3) After a good breakfast, departure at 9:00 AM to visit three islands. We took several nice walks with beautiful views of the lake and islands. A local meal was served on the last island. At 1:00 PM, we met Moses for the rest of the program and headed to Ruhija in Bwindi Forest****. The landscapes are breathtaking. After two hours of driving and many photo stops, we arrived at our accommodation near the trekking starting point, Ruhija Gorilla Friends Resort **. We stayed in a room instead of the initially planned tents, which was just as well because there was a lot of wind during the night. We still had time for an activity and decided to meet the Bwata pygmies despite the bad reviews in the guide… The first part of the visit was quite nice, with a visit to a school where the children gave us a very joyful welcome. We had a great time listening to them sing and dance! Then we met the Bwata pygmies who live on the edge of the forest. When Bwindi Forest was declared a national park, they had to leave their habitat because their activities weren’t compatible with nature and wildlife protection. We left on a somewhat sad note… The visit ended with a local doctor explaining different medicinal plants, and we watched the making of local beer from sorghum. Good meal. We had butterflies in our stomachs—tomorrow was a big day! I admit I was a bit stressed, not entirely confident in my physical abilities…
Day 4) After a short night due to excitement, breakfast, and departure at 7:30 AM. First, it started calmly with singing and dancing. Then, a 15-minute briefing and group assignments. No one asked if we had any physical problems or anything (when booking, I had inquired a bit, and they told me groups were assigned based on physical abilities). We were assigned to the Mukiza group. At first, I was pretty happy—it was a fairly large group with babies :). The ranger explained that for now, they didn’t know where the gorillas were… the trackers couldn’t find them… Oh… (that’s not a good sign!!!) We set off at a good pace, first on a reasonably sloped path. We were accompanied by a family of four Italians and five porters (four for us!). After an hour, the ranger stopped us and informed us they still couldn’t find them—they had fought with another group the day before and scattered throughout the forest, so they were very far away, and we needed to move faster… Hmm… we picked up the pace (we weren’t going slowly before!!!) and walked for another good hour—down, up, down again, up again, we kept going, but always more or less on paths. Then another stop. A 10-minute break waiting for news. The news wasn’t very precise, it seemed! The ranger decided to cut through the forest—machetes were used to clear the path. We descended unimaginable slopes, then climbed back up. Our stick kept getting stuck; luckily, our porter helped us, held our hands, and the terrain was vertical! An hour later, another stop: we heard gorilla cries (yay!!!). False hope—we waited again for news from the trackers, who informed our ranger that it was a non-habituated family, so we couldn’t see them. Cold shower—we had to go all the way back up and return to the starting point to maybe see another group. But time was running out… We arrived around 1:30 PM; all the other groups had already left long ago. Our guide was worried because we still had a long drive ahead. We quickly ate a banana, and off we went for another trek (I was exhausted!). Luckily, this group was close—about 45 minutes of steep descent (I was already thinking about the climb back and considering being adopted by a gorilla ). The forest was sublime, with magnificent tree ferns—the place was truly splendid. Finally, we were there. The porters stayed behind, we grabbed our cameras, and followed the ranger. The progress wasn’t easy, but suddenly, a female was in front of us, curled up in a little ball, eating—so cute. The emotion overwhelmed us. But she moved away—it’s hard to observe them; they move constantly, and the terrain is very steep and uneven. We saw a female descending from a tree with a baby on her back—too adorable. Then, here was the silverback, enormous, incredible, yet so calm and peaceful. He ate quietly and gave us a nice demonstration of nostril exploration! We could observe them for a good hour, but photographing them wasn’t easy because they kept moving, and we could barely stand! Toward the end, a large male (black back) suddenly stood up and decided to pass right where I was! I ended up in the bushes, and the male passed in front of me just a few centimeters away (he stepped on one of my daughters’ feet!) followed by the whole family. Just an exceptional moment. It was time to leave; we had to climb back up. I dreaded it because, I admit, I was exhausted. We finished the hike after 4:00 PM, exhausted but happy. The ranger gave us diplomas, and we didn’t linger because we still had a long drive—we needed to reach Ishasha before nightfall. Our guide was a bit stressed. If we were to do it again, we’d spend an extra night in Bwindi. However, it seems finishing so late is exceptional—it never happens, according to our guide! The road between Bwindi and Ishasha is sublime, with extraordinary landscapes, and despite the late hour, we regularly asked our guide to stop for photos. We arrived at Enjojo *** Lodge around 6:00 PM. The huts are located quite far from the reception and the bathrooms, a bit far from the huts, but otherwise, it was very nice.
Day 5) Departure at 8:00 AM after a good breakfast with the hope of seeing tree-climbing lions (no luck!). Overall, there weren’t many animals, and we arrived around 12:45 PM at our next stop, Parkview Safari Lodge ****, with a magnificent view, a beautiful family bungalow, and a good meal. We enjoyed a short relaxation by the lovely pool. At 4:00 PM, we left to see Kyambura Gorge *** and hike there. Unfortunately, this activity is no longer available, so we walked around the area—it was very beautiful. Back at the hotel, a little rest after the previous day wasn’t a bad idea! Reading, swimming, meals, and dances made the end of the day enjoyable.
Day 6) Departure at 6:30 AM—one of our daughters was sick (stomachache, cold sweats…). Safari in Queen Elizabeth ** (Kaseny Plains)—a bit disappointing. Stop by the salt lake with a nice view. A small market, but we weren’t thrilled by the crafts (overall, apart from some beautiful baskets/plates, there wasn’t much, and the wooden objects were, in our opinion, much less pretty than in Namibia). Then we took the crater road (27 km long) **** with magnificent landscapes. However, you absolutely must close the windows because it’s infested with tsetse flies. At noon, we arrived at Mweya, where we stayed in basic rooms, but the restaurant was well-placed with a beautiful view of the Kazinga Channel. At 2:00 PM, we enjoyed a magnificent cruise **** on the channel. Elephants, antelopes, crocodiles, hippos (including adorable babies), buffaloes, all kinds of birds. Wow!!! Two hours of pure bliss. Quiet end of the day playing cards with a view of the channel and elephants.
Day 7) Departure at 6:00 AM—still sick, we weren’t sure if it was due to the preventive treatment (Malarone) or something else… Another game drive in Queen Elizabeth (Kaseny Plains) and breakfast by the salt lake. Overall, we were a bit disappointed by this park. Then we took the road to Crater Lakes***, again with very beautiful landscapes. A hike of about an hour and a half allowed us to discover these beautiful crater lakes (the water mainly comes from the Rwenzoris). We crossed pretty villages and had nice encounters. End of the day at Tinka’s Home ****, with a family. We loved this place—very welcoming, where we took a cooking class with our hosts. A really great time. After the meal, we enjoyed African stories and dances. Really awesome.
Day 8) Departure at 7:30 AM for another highly anticipated discovery—the chimpanzees in Kibale Forest ****. We went to the meeting point and were split into groups of six, each with a guide. We saw three different groups, and for the last group, we followed a chimpanzee (slightly more comfortable running in the forest than we were!) that led us to the group. Their cries are very impressive, and we could observe them well, even though they were often high up in the trees. We were lucky enough to see two on the ground, very close to us. It was magnificent. End of the encounter and return to the starting point—it was noon. We went back to Tinka’s Home for the meal (delicious!). At 2:00 PM, we hiked in Bigodi Swamp ***, a marsh surrounded by beautiful vegetation, especially huge papyrus, and inhabited by many birds and monkeys. We saw, among others, black-and-white colobus monkeys, red colobus monkeys, and vervet monkeys. We also visited a basket-weaving workshop where we bought two beautiful baskets. Then a short stop in Fort Portal, where we stayed for two nights at Ruwenzori View Guesthouse ***, a nice place with a family room and very good communal meals.
Day 9) Departure at 8:00 AM for a hike in the Rwenzori****—it was a bit chaotic today. First, we had to exchange shillings because we wouldn’t have another chance in the following days. At the bank, employees went to get the bills by motorcycle from other buildings—it was quite surreal! And it took time! Then there was a misunderstanding between the organizer and me… I really wanted to see the region where chameleons are found in the Rwenzori—this region is south of the mountain range, and we were in the north! Anyway, the program included an ascent in the northern part with a positive elevation gain of over 1,500 meters… Talking to the guide scheduled for this hike (Noah), we explained that we really wanted to discover the vegetation and these famous chameleons, not necessarily achieve a physical feat… (we’d had enough!). The decision was made to go south, which meant quite a bit of driving. The hike was really enjoyable, with magnificent vegetation by the river. We saw three of the four chameleon species present, including the famous three-horned chameleon. The region is superb. We ended with a drink at Ruboni Camp, which has a magnificent view of the region (ideally, we should have stayed there). Two hours of driving to finish, and a good meal :).
Day 10) Departure at 8:00 AM—we had a long drive to Ziwa Rhino Ranch****. We passed through Hoima, had lunch in Masindi, and arrived in time for the rhino tracking walk. We could approach them closely on foot—it was impressive. We saw eight. Since we were staying on-site in the guesthouse **, we received precise safety instructions for moving between the rooms and the restaurant. And we quickly understood why!
Day 11) Departure at 6:00 AM for breakfast—surprise, in front of our room, several large rhinos were sleeping (we had also heard a lot of animal noises during the night—rhinos but also what seemed to be predators). So we had to take a detour to reach the restaurant! Second surprise—next to the restaurant, just three meters away at most, two mothers and their baby were also sleeping! Memorable! Then we had an appointment for the shoebill trek and canoe ride **** (package with the previous day’s walk). So there we were, in our boots, splashing through 30 cm of water in search of the shoebill (I really wanted to see one :))! It was really fun, and luck was on our side—a shoebill had just landed in the distance! We approached as best we could and observed it from afar. What a strange bird! There are very few left, and Uganda is one of the countries where the chances of seeing one are quite good. The tour continued with a canoe cruise where we saw a herd of cows (the famous ones with enormous horns) being swum as a dowry to the father of the future bride! A funny spectacle. This stop wasn’t the most anticipated, but we all thought it was really worth the detour. Road to Murchison Falls Park, and arrival around noon at Red Chili Rest Camp **, where we stayed for two nights (family banda). Good meal. Then a cruise to Murchison Falls*** where we disembarked and continued on foot. It was pretty. Back to Red Chili.
Day 12) This morning, early departure for a cruise in search of the shoebill*** (booked in case we didn’t see one at Ziwa). The landscapes were pretty, but there weren’t many birds in the end. We spotted the chosen one from afar after the first 10 minutes—so the suspense didn’t last long :-) It was a nice activity but quite long—5 hours. In the afternoon, safari in Murchison Park****—this park is sublime, the landscapes fabulous. Really one of our favorite parts of the trip. Lots of animals and even a leopard spotted with binoculars because it was far away! Night at Red Chili.
Day 13) Departure for the first morning ferry—it was drizzling, the sky was threatening at first, so the landscape was spectacular! Beautiful contrasts. In the middle of the morning, we were lucky to observe a whole group of lions, first from afar, then with a little patience, the whole group approached until they passed beside and in front of our vehicle. What emotion and excitement! We could then observe large groups of giraffes. They were magnificent. The morning was incredible. Then we headed to our lodge, Fort Murchison ****, and on the way, we saw a whole group of elephants—the view was magnificent. We had a very good meal and enjoyed the pool a bit. We also met Paul, the organizer of our trip. Very nice :). In the late afternoon, off for a short safari in the park. We slept in very well-equipped tents.
Day 14) Today, we had a long drive to Kidepo Park. It was raining, which didn’t help our guide—according to him, the tracks near Kidepo turn to mud with rain and become difficult to navigate. We saw, among other things, a bus in a bad situation in the ditch. Some sections were really tricky, and we were glad to have a driver. The end of the trip—the landscape was spectacular and original, and we saw some traditional villages. We arrived at Kidepo quite late. Short safari in the park before reaching the accommodation. We booked two simple bandas in the park camp**. It was clean but didn’t hold up well in the rain . The restaurant was very nice, though.
Day 15) The day was dedicated to discovering Kidepo Park **** where the landscapes were again superb. First encounter with a lioness resting on a rock. We saw other lions later and observed them for a long time. There were almost no other tourists in the park. Our daughter wasn’t feeling well, and by the time we arrived at the lodge, she had a temperature of 39.5°C (103.1°F)… A nap was necessary. In the late afternoon, we returned to the spot where we had seen the lions that morning, and they were still there—they weren’t happy because rain was threatening! It was a great photo opportunity. Then came the downpour, and our driver urged us to return quickly because the tracks were becoming impassable. Indeed, a jeep was in the ditch… The return was eventful, and several times we slid without being able to do anything… Wow, what a day!
Day 16) No safari this morning because of impassable tracks—the road to Kotido*** was longer than expected as we had to take a detour. The landscapes along the way were surprising. We finally arrived around 1:00 PM at the accommodation and left at 3:00 PM to visit the largest manyatta in East Africa with two translators. It was incredible—a very beautiful experience. The manyatta is immense and has 28,000 inhabitants. Night at Karamojaarts guesthouse*—very average meal.
Day 17) Departure for Moroto****—on the way, we saw many bird species. Moroto doesn’t look like other Ugandan cities. Life there seems very pleasant. We arrived at Kara-Tunga and had a bite to eat. At 4:00 PM, we left to visit a Karamojong village. We enjoyed beautiful dances and watched communal games—it was fun and so authentic. Then we headed to a kraal (where shepherds and herds are) to set up our camp. Moses had to get used to the idea of sleeping in the tribe in a tent! It was incredible to find ourselves in this universe. The place was beautiful, and we had a great time with the Karamojong. Some had never seen white people… had never been in a car… Their culture is incredible. During the evening, around the fire, to our guide’s dismay (a bird enthusiast), they grilled hornbills! On our side, we ate a meal prepared by Kara-Tunga for our sensitive stomachs! Night in a tent.
Day 18) Dawn wake-up in the fog—the atmosphere was quite strange. Our daughter was attacked by a cow—fortunately, more fear than harm, but she ended up with a lot of thorns in her buttocks and thighs ! Then we left for the Mount Elgon region, specifically Sipi Falls****. Lacam Lodge****, perched on the edge of the cliff with a direct view of one of the falls, was just magnificent. The view and landscapes were fabulous. Big favorite. We had dinner and then went for a hike to visit the three falls in the region, partly in the rain. The landscapes were breathtaking! Sunset at Lacam Lodge with the sun setting over the waterfall. We couldn’t get enough and stayed to admire until nightfall!
Day 19) Visit to coffee plantations*** where we were given all the useful explanations to understand the culture and the incredible work required for this product, which is ultimately not very glorified. The visit was very interesting, and we drank very good coffee with the owners. Last photos at Lacam Lodge, and then departure for Jinja, where we arrived in the middle of the afternoon. We took a small cruise to see the source of the Nile*. Very touristy and not at all to our taste… Then a meal at Jinja Base Camp** where we enjoyed guacamole. Our guide Moses left us because another group was waiting for him!
Day 20) Road to Kampala***, the market, the Gaddafi Mosque. Short but interesting visit. Last meal in Entebbe by Lake Victoria, where we almost felt like we were by the sea. Transfer to the airport and return to Switzerland…
Epilogue: All four of us were enchanted by this trip, which will undoubtedly remain one of the most beautiful we’ve ever taken. Talking about it gives me chills and brings tears to my eyes. It was simply a magnificent experience. However, I wouldn’t recommend this trip to everyone because you often have to overlook small inconveniences like toilets (the worst of my life) and certain comfort details that, for us, remain details but could be important to others.
Our favorites: - The gorilla trek - The cruise on Kazinga Channel - The Fort Portal region - The Rwenzori Mountains - The chimpanzee trek - Murchison Falls - Kidepo - Spending time with the Karamojong tribe - The Sipi Falls region - The accommodations: Eagle’s Nest, Byonna Amagara, Parkview Lodge, Tinka’s Home, Rwenzori Guesthouse, Fort Murchison, Night in the kraal, and Lacam Lodge
What we liked less: - Queen Elizabeth Park - Jinja - The accommodations: Ziwa Rhino Ranch, Karamojaarts Guesthouse
I’ll try to post some photos later. If you have any questions about a future trip, I’d be happy to answer them.
For summer 2019, the idea was to return to Africa. We had already been to Namibia in 2017 (+ a few days in Botswana and the end of the trip at Victoria Falls), which we loved, and a trip to Asia in 2018 (Borneo, Perhentian, and Singapore), a nature-focused trip but a bit disappointing due to environmental destruction. The desire to return to Africa was very strong. We wanted a change of scenery, nature, discoveries, to step out of our little comfort zone (a bit, anyway!) and experience travel differently. In short, we dreamed of authenticity, and we weren’t disappointed.
We traveled as a family of four with our daughters, aged 19 and 17. When the urge for Africa hit, Uganda quickly stood out, especially for the chance to see rare animals, particularly the famous mountain gorillas. When I looked into the budget, I was quickly disheartened. It’s really expensive. Too expensive… Then, after reading a few trip reports on "VoyageForum" (thanks Muriel J!), I decided to ask a local agency for a quote. The first contact was very friendly and responsive, and the initial offer for two weeks fit our budget :). A few images gathered from the internet (especially Sipi Falls) finally convinced us all. I asked for an adapted offer with a few more sites to extend the trip to three weeks and cover a fairly complete visit to the country (which, of course, increased the budget! To stay within an acceptable range, we prioritized activities over accommodations and regularly chose the cheapest options, with 2-3 nice lodges in between). It’s booked! We were in October 2018, and the first thing to do was reserve permits to see the gorillas and chimpanzees. Then, the agency took care of all the bookings except for the international flights, which we booked with Ethiopian Airlines. A few months of waiting to look forward to… and a little worry too! Two events didn’t reassure us: the kidnapping of an American tourist by four men at the DRC border and the Ebola outbreak in Congo, with confirmed cases in Uganda by mid-June…
Here we are in July, and departure is approaching. The suitcases are packed (warm clothes, long, short, dark, light, practical, sun, rain, hiking/trekking shoes, flip-flops—clothes for every situation! Don’t forget: headlamp (essential!), binoculars, cameras), and we’re ready.
One day before departure, our agency Mpolampola, through its manager Paul, informs us that he won’t be the one taking care of us during the trip but another guide named Moses. He has a big problem with a vehicle and can’t do otherwise. For us, as long as everything is okay, no worries, especially since I had read glowing reviews about Moses, who turned out to be a very pleasant guide, cautious (most important) on the road, clear about all the activities, and an expert on birds, his specialty. We briefly met Paul in the middle of the trip, who is also very friendly. In short, we 100% recommend this agency. Flights to Entebbe went smoothly; we arrived around 10:30 AM, filled out health forms (Ebola information signs everywhere), visas, baggage claim, and met Moses, who took us directly to the vehicle. It was in pretty good condition with huge tires (we’d understand why later!), but it had quite a few miles (400,000 on the odometer!). Just missing a seatbelt… Okay, it’s Africa!
Now, here’s our day-by-day itinerary, which I’ll summarize briefly with ratings for each activity: ****TOPISSIME (Amazing) ***Very good **Good *Meh
Day 1) Departure from the airport at 11:45 AM for some currency exchange. Stop along the way at the equator for a meal and souvenir photo! Arrival at Lake Mburo Park *** around 5:00 PM. Even before entering the park, we saw lots of antelopes, zebras, elks, etc.—it’s magnificent. On the way, we had already encountered many goats and cows, and we were impressed by their enormous horns. We enjoyed a nice game drive until about 7:00 PM, when we reached our lodge, one of the nicest of the trip, Eagle’s Nest ****, with a magnificent view, a tent with a nice bathroom/shower, and a very good meal.
Day 2) Departure at 7:00 AM for a game drive; we encountered many animals again, especially antelopes, zebras, and birds. There are no giraffes, lions, or cheetahs in this park. We didn’t get lucky enough to see a leopard… :-) Then, we continued to Lake Bunyonyi ***, where the road and views are very beautiful, but we were shocked to see locals (mostly women and children) breaking stones by hand on the mountainside in very precarious safety conditions. There are regularly dramatic accidents because, over time, entire sections detach and cause landslides. These stones are then used for road construction… Another world… This was the only place we saw this. Lake Bunyonyi is a nice stop (but less exotic in our opinion since we have many lakes back home too!). We took a boat to our accommodation, Byoona Amagara ***, which has a lot of charm. We stayed in huts called "geodomes," completely open to nature, so it was very cool at night. To reach the toilets located below, you had to be brave! The meal consisted of lake shrimp—good but a bit bland.
Day 3) After a good breakfast, departure at 9:00 AM to visit three islands. We took several nice walks with beautiful views of the lake and islands. A local meal was served on the last island. At 1:00 PM, we met Moses for the rest of the program and headed to Ruhija in Bwindi Forest****. The landscapes are breathtaking. After two hours of driving and many photo stops, we arrived at our accommodation near the trekking starting point, Ruhija Gorilla Friends Resort **. We stayed in a room instead of the initially planned tents, which was just as well because there was a lot of wind during the night. We still had time for an activity and decided to meet the Bwata pygmies despite the bad reviews in the guide… The first part of the visit was quite nice, with a visit to a school where the children gave us a very joyful welcome. We had a great time listening to them sing and dance! Then we met the Bwata pygmies who live on the edge of the forest. When Bwindi Forest was declared a national park, they had to leave their habitat because their activities weren’t compatible with nature and wildlife protection. We left on a somewhat sad note… The visit ended with a local doctor explaining different medicinal plants, and we watched the making of local beer from sorghum. Good meal. We had butterflies in our stomachs—tomorrow was a big day! I admit I was a bit stressed, not entirely confident in my physical abilities…
Day 4) After a short night due to excitement, breakfast, and departure at 7:30 AM. First, it started calmly with singing and dancing. Then, a 15-minute briefing and group assignments. No one asked if we had any physical problems or anything (when booking, I had inquired a bit, and they told me groups were assigned based on physical abilities). We were assigned to the Mukiza group. At first, I was pretty happy—it was a fairly large group with babies :). The ranger explained that for now, they didn’t know where the gorillas were… the trackers couldn’t find them… Oh… (that’s not a good sign!!!) We set off at a good pace, first on a reasonably sloped path. We were accompanied by a family of four Italians and five porters (four for us!). After an hour, the ranger stopped us and informed us they still couldn’t find them—they had fought with another group the day before and scattered throughout the forest, so they were very far away, and we needed to move faster… Hmm… we picked up the pace (we weren’t going slowly before!!!) and walked for another good hour—down, up, down again, up again, we kept going, but always more or less on paths. Then another stop. A 10-minute break waiting for news. The news wasn’t very precise, it seemed! The ranger decided to cut through the forest—machetes were used to clear the path. We descended unimaginable slopes, then climbed back up. Our stick kept getting stuck; luckily, our porter helped us, held our hands, and the terrain was vertical! An hour later, another stop: we heard gorilla cries (yay!!!). False hope—we waited again for news from the trackers, who informed our ranger that it was a non-habituated family, so we couldn’t see them. Cold shower—we had to go all the way back up and return to the starting point to maybe see another group. But time was running out… We arrived around 1:30 PM; all the other groups had already left long ago. Our guide was worried because we still had a long drive ahead. We quickly ate a banana, and off we went for another trek (I was exhausted!). Luckily, this group was close—about 45 minutes of steep descent (I was already thinking about the climb back and considering being adopted by a gorilla ). The forest was sublime, with magnificent tree ferns—the place was truly splendid. Finally, we were there. The porters stayed behind, we grabbed our cameras, and followed the ranger. The progress wasn’t easy, but suddenly, a female was in front of us, curled up in a little ball, eating—so cute. The emotion overwhelmed us. But she moved away—it’s hard to observe them; they move constantly, and the terrain is very steep and uneven. We saw a female descending from a tree with a baby on her back—too adorable. Then, here was the silverback, enormous, incredible, yet so calm and peaceful. He ate quietly and gave us a nice demonstration of nostril exploration! We could observe them for a good hour, but photographing them wasn’t easy because they kept moving, and we could barely stand! Toward the end, a large male (black back) suddenly stood up and decided to pass right where I was! I ended up in the bushes, and the male passed in front of me just a few centimeters away (he stepped on one of my daughters’ feet!) followed by the whole family. Just an exceptional moment. It was time to leave; we had to climb back up. I dreaded it because, I admit, I was exhausted. We finished the hike after 4:00 PM, exhausted but happy. The ranger gave us diplomas, and we didn’t linger because we still had a long drive—we needed to reach Ishasha before nightfall. Our guide was a bit stressed. If we were to do it again, we’d spend an extra night in Bwindi. However, it seems finishing so late is exceptional—it never happens, according to our guide! The road between Bwindi and Ishasha is sublime, with extraordinary landscapes, and despite the late hour, we regularly asked our guide to stop for photos. We arrived at Enjojo *** Lodge around 6:00 PM. The huts are located quite far from the reception and the bathrooms, a bit far from the huts, but otherwise, it was very nice.
Day 5) Departure at 8:00 AM after a good breakfast with the hope of seeing tree-climbing lions (no luck!). Overall, there weren’t many animals, and we arrived around 12:45 PM at our next stop, Parkview Safari Lodge ****, with a magnificent view, a beautiful family bungalow, and a good meal. We enjoyed a short relaxation by the lovely pool. At 4:00 PM, we left to see Kyambura Gorge *** and hike there. Unfortunately, this activity is no longer available, so we walked around the area—it was very beautiful. Back at the hotel, a little rest after the previous day wasn’t a bad idea! Reading, swimming, meals, and dances made the end of the day enjoyable.
Day 6) Departure at 6:30 AM—one of our daughters was sick (stomachache, cold sweats…). Safari in Queen Elizabeth ** (Kaseny Plains)—a bit disappointing. Stop by the salt lake with a nice view. A small market, but we weren’t thrilled by the crafts (overall, apart from some beautiful baskets/plates, there wasn’t much, and the wooden objects were, in our opinion, much less pretty than in Namibia). Then we took the crater road (27 km long) **** with magnificent landscapes. However, you absolutely must close the windows because it’s infested with tsetse flies. At noon, we arrived at Mweya, where we stayed in basic rooms, but the restaurant was well-placed with a beautiful view of the Kazinga Channel. At 2:00 PM, we enjoyed a magnificent cruise **** on the channel. Elephants, antelopes, crocodiles, hippos (including adorable babies), buffaloes, all kinds of birds. Wow!!! Two hours of pure bliss. Quiet end of the day playing cards with a view of the channel and elephants.
Day 7) Departure at 6:00 AM—still sick, we weren’t sure if it was due to the preventive treatment (Malarone) or something else… Another game drive in Queen Elizabeth (Kaseny Plains) and breakfast by the salt lake. Overall, we were a bit disappointed by this park. Then we took the road to Crater Lakes***, again with very beautiful landscapes. A hike of about an hour and a half allowed us to discover these beautiful crater lakes (the water mainly comes from the Rwenzoris). We crossed pretty villages and had nice encounters. End of the day at Tinka’s Home ****, with a family. We loved this place—very welcoming, where we took a cooking class with our hosts. A really great time. After the meal, we enjoyed African stories and dances. Really awesome.
Day 8) Departure at 7:30 AM for another highly anticipated discovery—the chimpanzees in Kibale Forest ****. We went to the meeting point and were split into groups of six, each with a guide. We saw three different groups, and for the last group, we followed a chimpanzee (slightly more comfortable running in the forest than we were!) that led us to the group. Their cries are very impressive, and we could observe them well, even though they were often high up in the trees. We were lucky enough to see two on the ground, very close to us. It was magnificent. End of the encounter and return to the starting point—it was noon. We went back to Tinka’s Home for the meal (delicious!). At 2:00 PM, we hiked in Bigodi Swamp ***, a marsh surrounded by beautiful vegetation, especially huge papyrus, and inhabited by many birds and monkeys. We saw, among others, black-and-white colobus monkeys, red colobus monkeys, and vervet monkeys. We also visited a basket-weaving workshop where we bought two beautiful baskets. Then a short stop in Fort Portal, where we stayed for two nights at Ruwenzori View Guesthouse ***, a nice place with a family room and very good communal meals.
Day 9) Departure at 8:00 AM for a hike in the Rwenzori****—it was a bit chaotic today. First, we had to exchange shillings because we wouldn’t have another chance in the following days. At the bank, employees went to get the bills by motorcycle from other buildings—it was quite surreal! And it took time! Then there was a misunderstanding between the organizer and me… I really wanted to see the region where chameleons are found in the Rwenzori—this region is south of the mountain range, and we were in the north! Anyway, the program included an ascent in the northern part with a positive elevation gain of over 1,500 meters… Talking to the guide scheduled for this hike (Noah), we explained that we really wanted to discover the vegetation and these famous chameleons, not necessarily achieve a physical feat… (we’d had enough!). The decision was made to go south, which meant quite a bit of driving. The hike was really enjoyable, with magnificent vegetation by the river. We saw three of the four chameleon species present, including the famous three-horned chameleon. The region is superb. We ended with a drink at Ruboni Camp, which has a magnificent view of the region (ideally, we should have stayed there). Two hours of driving to finish, and a good meal :).
Day 10) Departure at 8:00 AM—we had a long drive to Ziwa Rhino Ranch****. We passed through Hoima, had lunch in Masindi, and arrived in time for the rhino tracking walk. We could approach them closely on foot—it was impressive. We saw eight. Since we were staying on-site in the guesthouse **, we received precise safety instructions for moving between the rooms and the restaurant. And we quickly understood why!
Day 11) Departure at 6:00 AM for breakfast—surprise, in front of our room, several large rhinos were sleeping (we had also heard a lot of animal noises during the night—rhinos but also what seemed to be predators). So we had to take a detour to reach the restaurant! Second surprise—next to the restaurant, just three meters away at most, two mothers and their baby were also sleeping! Memorable! Then we had an appointment for the shoebill trek and canoe ride **** (package with the previous day’s walk). So there we were, in our boots, splashing through 30 cm of water in search of the shoebill (I really wanted to see one :))! It was really fun, and luck was on our side—a shoebill had just landed in the distance! We approached as best we could and observed it from afar. What a strange bird! There are very few left, and Uganda is one of the countries where the chances of seeing one are quite good. The tour continued with a canoe cruise where we saw a herd of cows (the famous ones with enormous horns) being swum as a dowry to the father of the future bride! A funny spectacle. This stop wasn’t the most anticipated, but we all thought it was really worth the detour. Road to Murchison Falls Park, and arrival around noon at Red Chili Rest Camp **, where we stayed for two nights (family banda). Good meal. Then a cruise to Murchison Falls*** where we disembarked and continued on foot. It was pretty. Back to Red Chili.
Day 12) This morning, early departure for a cruise in search of the shoebill*** (booked in case we didn’t see one at Ziwa). The landscapes were pretty, but there weren’t many birds in the end. We spotted the chosen one from afar after the first 10 minutes—so the suspense didn’t last long :-) It was a nice activity but quite long—5 hours. In the afternoon, safari in Murchison Park****—this park is sublime, the landscapes fabulous. Really one of our favorite parts of the trip. Lots of animals and even a leopard spotted with binoculars because it was far away! Night at Red Chili.
Day 13) Departure for the first morning ferry—it was drizzling, the sky was threatening at first, so the landscape was spectacular! Beautiful contrasts. In the middle of the morning, we were lucky to observe a whole group of lions, first from afar, then with a little patience, the whole group approached until they passed beside and in front of our vehicle. What emotion and excitement! We could then observe large groups of giraffes. They were magnificent. The morning was incredible. Then we headed to our lodge, Fort Murchison ****, and on the way, we saw a whole group of elephants—the view was magnificent. We had a very good meal and enjoyed the pool a bit. We also met Paul, the organizer of our trip. Very nice :). In the late afternoon, off for a short safari in the park. We slept in very well-equipped tents.
Day 14) Today, we had a long drive to Kidepo Park. It was raining, which didn’t help our guide—according to him, the tracks near Kidepo turn to mud with rain and become difficult to navigate. We saw, among other things, a bus in a bad situation in the ditch. Some sections were really tricky, and we were glad to have a driver. The end of the trip—the landscape was spectacular and original, and we saw some traditional villages. We arrived at Kidepo quite late. Short safari in the park before reaching the accommodation. We booked two simple bandas in the park camp**. It was clean but didn’t hold up well in the rain . The restaurant was very nice, though.
Day 15) The day was dedicated to discovering Kidepo Park **** where the landscapes were again superb. First encounter with a lioness resting on a rock. We saw other lions later and observed them for a long time. There were almost no other tourists in the park. Our daughter wasn’t feeling well, and by the time we arrived at the lodge, she had a temperature of 39.5°C (103.1°F)… A nap was necessary. In the late afternoon, we returned to the spot where we had seen the lions that morning, and they were still there—they weren’t happy because rain was threatening! It was a great photo opportunity. Then came the downpour, and our driver urged us to return quickly because the tracks were becoming impassable. Indeed, a jeep was in the ditch… The return was eventful, and several times we slid without being able to do anything… Wow, what a day!
Day 16) No safari this morning because of impassable tracks—the road to Kotido*** was longer than expected as we had to take a detour. The landscapes along the way were surprising. We finally arrived around 1:00 PM at the accommodation and left at 3:00 PM to visit the largest manyatta in East Africa with two translators. It was incredible—a very beautiful experience. The manyatta is immense and has 28,000 inhabitants. Night at Karamojaarts guesthouse*—very average meal.
Day 17) Departure for Moroto****—on the way, we saw many bird species. Moroto doesn’t look like other Ugandan cities. Life there seems very pleasant. We arrived at Kara-Tunga and had a bite to eat. At 4:00 PM, we left to visit a Karamojong village. We enjoyed beautiful dances and watched communal games—it was fun and so authentic. Then we headed to a kraal (where shepherds and herds are) to set up our camp. Moses had to get used to the idea of sleeping in the tribe in a tent! It was incredible to find ourselves in this universe. The place was beautiful, and we had a great time with the Karamojong. Some had never seen white people… had never been in a car… Their culture is incredible. During the evening, around the fire, to our guide’s dismay (a bird enthusiast), they grilled hornbills! On our side, we ate a meal prepared by Kara-Tunga for our sensitive stomachs! Night in a tent.
Day 18) Dawn wake-up in the fog—the atmosphere was quite strange. Our daughter was attacked by a cow—fortunately, more fear than harm, but she ended up with a lot of thorns in her buttocks and thighs ! Then we left for the Mount Elgon region, specifically Sipi Falls****. Lacam Lodge****, perched on the edge of the cliff with a direct view of one of the falls, was just magnificent. The view and landscapes were fabulous. Big favorite. We had dinner and then went for a hike to visit the three falls in the region, partly in the rain. The landscapes were breathtaking! Sunset at Lacam Lodge with the sun setting over the waterfall. We couldn’t get enough and stayed to admire until nightfall!
Day 19) Visit to coffee plantations*** where we were given all the useful explanations to understand the culture and the incredible work required for this product, which is ultimately not very glorified. The visit was very interesting, and we drank very good coffee with the owners. Last photos at Lacam Lodge, and then departure for Jinja, where we arrived in the middle of the afternoon. We took a small cruise to see the source of the Nile*. Very touristy and not at all to our taste… Then a meal at Jinja Base Camp** where we enjoyed guacamole. Our guide Moses left us because another group was waiting for him!
Day 20) Road to Kampala***, the market, the Gaddafi Mosque. Short but interesting visit. Last meal in Entebbe by Lake Victoria, where we almost felt like we were by the sea. Transfer to the airport and return to Switzerland…
Epilogue: All four of us were enchanted by this trip, which will undoubtedly remain one of the most beautiful we’ve ever taken. Talking about it gives me chills and brings tears to my eyes. It was simply a magnificent experience. However, I wouldn’t recommend this trip to everyone because you often have to overlook small inconveniences like toilets (the worst of my life) and certain comfort details that, for us, remain details but could be important to others.
Our favorites: - The gorilla trek - The cruise on Kazinga Channel - The Fort Portal region - The Rwenzori Mountains - The chimpanzee trek - Murchison Falls - Kidepo - Spending time with the Karamojong tribe - The Sipi Falls region - The accommodations: Eagle’s Nest, Byonna Amagara, Parkview Lodge, Tinka’s Home, Rwenzori Guesthouse, Fort Murchison, Night in the kraal, and Lacam Lodge
What we liked less: - Queen Elizabeth Park - Jinja - The accommodations: Ziwa Rhino Ranch, Karamojaarts Guesthouse
I’ll try to post some photos later. If you have any questions about a future trip, I’d be happy to answer them.
Choisir un pays d'Afrique de l'Est pour voir des animaux en liberté
Bonjour à tous,
Notre couple envisage de voir en 2020 des animaux sauvages en toute liberté sans nuire à leur tranquillité et dans un pays qui les respecte. Nous avons pensé à trois destinations le Kenya, la Tanzanie ou la Namibie. Nous souhaitons aussi traiter directement avec une agence locale sérieuse. Nous vous remercions pour votre collaboration et aide.
Daniel
Notre couple envisage de voir en 2020 des animaux sauvages en toute liberté sans nuire à leur tranquillité et dans un pays qui les respecte. Nous avons pensé à trois destinations le Kenya, la Tanzanie ou la Namibie. Nous souhaitons aussi traiter directement avec une agence locale sérieuse. Nous vous remercions pour votre collaboration et aide.
Daniel
Afrique du Sud, une destination fabuleuse... à éviter en septembre!
Bonjour,
De retour de notre (petit) périple en AFS et suite aux nombreux conseils glanés sur ce forum, ci-dessous quelques éléments qui, je l'espère, serviront à d'autres voyageurs.
Dates du voyages : du 04 au 24/09/2019.
Parcours (ultra classique) : Graskop / Blyde River Canyon (2 jours) , Kruger (5 jours), Mlilwane/Swaziland (2 jours) , Tembe elephant park (2 jours), St Lucia /Isimangaliso (2 jours) , réserve de Hluhluwe-Imfolozi (2 jours) , Drakensberg central et nord (4 jours) , Golden gate park/ Clarens (1 jour).
Transport : location de voiture (Nissan almera) chez Europcar (via le site Carigami / 357€ pour 20 jours)
Hébergements : Zur Alten Mine (Graskop) , Tamboti/Olifants et Lower Sabie (Kruger) , Mlilwane restcamp + Sondzela Backpackers (Swaziland) , Tembe lodge, St Lucia Lodge, Mpila Camp (Imfolozi) , Didima Camp et Thendele (Drakensberg), Clarens retreat (Clarens).
Nourriture : restaurants des camps la plupart du temps (corrects) et quelques repas préparés dans les hébergements équipés.
Points positifs : Un pays extrêmement facile à découvrir par ses propres moyens , excellent état du réseau routier pour ce qui concerne les axes principaux , globalement un bon rapport qualité/prix des hébergements (avec à chaque fois une literie excellente!), de nombreux animaux au sein des différentes réserves et de très beaux paysages.
Points négatifs : le seul vrai point négatif concerne la période choisie. Septembre correspond à la toute fin de la saison sèche et les paysages sont (quasiment) partout, extrêmement secs. Mais ce qui nous a le plus dérangé, ce sont les innombrables incendies, partout dans le pays à cette période de l'année. Non seulement, des pans entiers de végétation sont carbonisés mais les incendies créent également une brume permanente qui très souvent, obstrue totalement le paysage. Et c'est encore pire au Swaziland.
De plus, la saison sèche est normalement propice à l'observation des animaux car ces derniers se rassemblent généralement aux points d'eau. Sauf qu'en fin de saison sèche, de très nombreux points d'eau sont eux aussi totalement à sec ! Idem pour ce qui concerne les cours d'eau, les cascades etc. A titre d'exemple, les Berlin Falls dans le Blyde River Canyon, ainsi que les Tugela falls dans le Drakensberg avaient totalement disparues et il n'y avait plus d'eau courante au Thendele resort.
Toutefois, nous n'avons peut-être pas eu de chance car il semblerait que la sécheresse soit vraiment très importante cette année.
Pour info, la réserve de Tembe et la région de St Lucia étaient beaucoup plus verdoyantes que les autres.
Avis général : malgré la sécheresse des paysages, le pays nous a beaucoup plu et nous souhaiterions y retourner car nous n'en avons exploré qu'une infime portion. Nous avons choisis de voyager dans un certain confort mais au final, le prix du voyage nous a semblé raisonnable (environ 2 100€ par personne tout compris).
Nous avons été émerveillés par les animaux rencontrés même si nous n'avons vu ni léopard, ni guépard, ni lycaon malgré nos 5 jours au Kruger.
Je me tiens à disposition pour répondre, dans la mesure du possible, à toutes vos questions.
Et je remercie une nouvelle fois, les différents membres de VF m'ayant aidée avant notre départ.
Karine
De retour de notre (petit) périple en AFS et suite aux nombreux conseils glanés sur ce forum, ci-dessous quelques éléments qui, je l'espère, serviront à d'autres voyageurs.
Dates du voyages : du 04 au 24/09/2019.
Parcours (ultra classique) : Graskop / Blyde River Canyon (2 jours) , Kruger (5 jours), Mlilwane/Swaziland (2 jours) , Tembe elephant park (2 jours), St Lucia /Isimangaliso (2 jours) , réserve de Hluhluwe-Imfolozi (2 jours) , Drakensberg central et nord (4 jours) , Golden gate park/ Clarens (1 jour).
Transport : location de voiture (Nissan almera) chez Europcar (via le site Carigami / 357€ pour 20 jours)
Hébergements : Zur Alten Mine (Graskop) , Tamboti/Olifants et Lower Sabie (Kruger) , Mlilwane restcamp + Sondzela Backpackers (Swaziland) , Tembe lodge, St Lucia Lodge, Mpila Camp (Imfolozi) , Didima Camp et Thendele (Drakensberg), Clarens retreat (Clarens).
Nourriture : restaurants des camps la plupart du temps (corrects) et quelques repas préparés dans les hébergements équipés.
Points positifs : Un pays extrêmement facile à découvrir par ses propres moyens , excellent état du réseau routier pour ce qui concerne les axes principaux , globalement un bon rapport qualité/prix des hébergements (avec à chaque fois une literie excellente!), de nombreux animaux au sein des différentes réserves et de très beaux paysages.
Points négatifs : le seul vrai point négatif concerne la période choisie. Septembre correspond à la toute fin de la saison sèche et les paysages sont (quasiment) partout, extrêmement secs. Mais ce qui nous a le plus dérangé, ce sont les innombrables incendies, partout dans le pays à cette période de l'année. Non seulement, des pans entiers de végétation sont carbonisés mais les incendies créent également une brume permanente qui très souvent, obstrue totalement le paysage. Et c'est encore pire au Swaziland.
De plus, la saison sèche est normalement propice à l'observation des animaux car ces derniers se rassemblent généralement aux points d'eau. Sauf qu'en fin de saison sèche, de très nombreux points d'eau sont eux aussi totalement à sec ! Idem pour ce qui concerne les cours d'eau, les cascades etc. A titre d'exemple, les Berlin Falls dans le Blyde River Canyon, ainsi que les Tugela falls dans le Drakensberg avaient totalement disparues et il n'y avait plus d'eau courante au Thendele resort.
Toutefois, nous n'avons peut-être pas eu de chance car il semblerait que la sécheresse soit vraiment très importante cette année.
Pour info, la réserve de Tembe et la région de St Lucia étaient beaucoup plus verdoyantes que les autres.
Avis général : malgré la sécheresse des paysages, le pays nous a beaucoup plu et nous souhaiterions y retourner car nous n'en avons exploré qu'une infime portion. Nous avons choisis de voyager dans un certain confort mais au final, le prix du voyage nous a semblé raisonnable (environ 2 100€ par personne tout compris).
Nous avons été émerveillés par les animaux rencontrés même si nous n'avons vu ni léopard, ni guépard, ni lycaon malgré nos 5 jours au Kruger.
Je me tiens à disposition pour répondre, dans la mesure du possible, à toutes vos questions.
Et je remercie une nouvelle fois, les différents membres de VF m'ayant aidée avant notre départ.
Karine
Partir en février 2020 en Afrique du Sud
Bonjour,
Nous sommes déjà allés 4 fois en Afrique du Sud et souhaiterions y retourner en début d'année prochaine. J'avais pensé aller aussi au KTP mais je crois que les hébergements se réservent presqu'un an en avance. Pourriez vous nous le confirmer, y a-t-il un plan B?
Pour l'Afrique du Sud, la terrasse côtière occidentale au départ de Cap town en montant jusqu'à Pella (c'est pour cela que le KTP me tentait) et ensuite redescendre par le great Karoo. Je ne suis qu'au début de ma réflexion, nous connaissons Cap town mais n'avons jamais visité le nord de cette magnifique ville. Merci de vos commentaires, je suis preneuse de toute suggestion.
Nous voyageons en voiture, nous créons notre itinéraire et nous choisissons nos hébergements sans passer par une agence.
Nous sommes déjà allés 4 fois en Afrique du Sud et souhaiterions y retourner en début d'année prochaine. J'avais pensé aller aussi au KTP mais je crois que les hébergements se réservent presqu'un an en avance. Pourriez vous nous le confirmer, y a-t-il un plan B?
Pour l'Afrique du Sud, la terrasse côtière occidentale au départ de Cap town en montant jusqu'à Pella (c'est pour cela que le KTP me tentait) et ensuite redescendre par le great Karoo. Je ne suis qu'au début de ma réflexion, nous connaissons Cap town mais n'avons jamais visité le nord de cette magnifique ville. Merci de vos commentaires, je suis preneuse de toute suggestion.
Nous voyageons en voiture, nous créons notre itinéraire et nous choisissons nos hébergements sans passer par une agence.
Voyager au Malawi sans agence: possible? (avec enfants)
Bonjour,
eh bien voilà, tout est dans le titre je crois. Je rêve d'Afrique, de paysages, d'animaux et de rencontres humaines (et j'ai convaincu le reste de la famille : mon mari et nos 3 fils de 9 à 13 ans). Mais je désespère. Je n'arrive pas à me fixer une destination qui tienne dans un budget qui, tout en me semblant confortable, n'est certainement pas de 2500€ par personne minimum pour 2 semaines hors vols !!! 😮 J'ai donc laissé tomber le Kenya, et je regarde actuellement vers le Malawi, qui dans un premier temps me semble plus accessible sans agence. Avez-vous des expériences récentes à me faire partager concernant cette destination ? Suis-je vraiment inconsciente de vouloir voyager en Afrique sans tour operator et sans y laisser 1 an de salaire (voire 2 ou 3 selon les agences) ? C'est plus cher qu'un mois aux USA ! Les infos sont rares et contradictoires.
Merci d'avance à cette communauté qui m'a toujours aidée à réaliser nos rêves :)
Marie-Anne
eh bien voilà, tout est dans le titre je crois. Je rêve d'Afrique, de paysages, d'animaux et de rencontres humaines (et j'ai convaincu le reste de la famille : mon mari et nos 3 fils de 9 à 13 ans). Mais je désespère. Je n'arrive pas à me fixer une destination qui tienne dans un budget qui, tout en me semblant confortable, n'est certainement pas de 2500€ par personne minimum pour 2 semaines hors vols !!! 😮 J'ai donc laissé tomber le Kenya, et je regarde actuellement vers le Malawi, qui dans un premier temps me semble plus accessible sans agence. Avez-vous des expériences récentes à me faire partager concernant cette destination ? Suis-je vraiment inconsciente de vouloir voyager en Afrique sans tour operator et sans y laisser 1 an de salaire (voire 2 ou 3 selon les agences) ? C'est plus cher qu'un mois aux USA ! Les infos sont rares et contradictoires.
Merci d'avance à cette communauté qui m'a toujours aidée à réaliser nos rêves :)
Marie-Anne
Animaux et parcs en Namibie
Bonjour à tous!
J'envisage de partir 3 semaines l'été prochain Avec mon copain en Namibie. Nous sommes deja parti en 2017 en Afrique du Sud et nous sommes tombés amoureux des animaux, de la diversité des paysages ect. À l'époque on hésitait en afs et namibie donc on se dit que cette annee ca sera la Namibie! Ma question peut paraître bête mais existent-ils des parcs mis à part Etosha pour voir des animaux? On aimerait alterner paysages, randonnes et animaux. Le parcours n'est absolument pas tracé et vos réponses orienteront nos destinations! Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses! À bientôt, Estelle
J'envisage de partir 3 semaines l'été prochain Avec mon copain en Namibie. Nous sommes deja parti en 2017 en Afrique du Sud et nous sommes tombés amoureux des animaux, de la diversité des paysages ect. À l'époque on hésitait en afs et namibie donc on se dit que cette annee ca sera la Namibie! Ma question peut paraître bête mais existent-ils des parcs mis à part Etosha pour voir des animaux? On aimerait alterner paysages, randonnes et animaux. Le parcours n'est absolument pas tracé et vos réponses orienteront nos destinations! Merci beaucoup pour vos réponses! À bientôt, Estelle
Où partir en toute sécurité en Afrique en août 2018
Hello
Mon compagnon et moi souhaitons partir à l'aventure en Afrique cet été en toute sécurité. Qu'est ce que vous nous conseiller? Sachant que nous voulons faire les choses au maximum par nous même sens guide. Nous aimons louer un véhicule sur place pour nous déplacer plus facilement et aller là où l'on a envie. Nous aimons être au plus près des choses authentiques, proche de la nature et de la population.
Merci d'avance amis voyageurs pour vos réponses
Nolwenn
Mon compagnon et moi souhaitons partir à l'aventure en Afrique cet été en toute sécurité. Qu'est ce que vous nous conseiller? Sachant que nous voulons faire les choses au maximum par nous même sens guide. Nous aimons louer un véhicule sur place pour nous déplacer plus facilement et aller là où l'on a envie. Nous aimons être au plus près des choses authentiques, proche de la nature et de la population.
Merci d'avance amis voyageurs pour vos réponses
Nolwenn
Voyage safari familial en Afrique
Bonjour!
Mon nouveau projet avec mes ados et mon chum, un voyage en Afrique!
Je sais que l'Afrique, c'est grand... C'est pourquoi, je veux savoir:
Je veux faire 2-3 jours en safari... le reste est à organiser.
Ma question!
Où est le meilleur endroit pour les safari en août (début)? Après, je ferai mon voyage en conséquence!!
Merci beaucoup chez amis du voyage forum!
Je veux faire 2-3 jours en safari... le reste est à organiser.
Ma question!
Où est le meilleur endroit pour les safari en août (début)? Après, je ferai mon voyage en conséquence!!
Merci beaucoup chez amis du voyage forum!
Namibie en décembre
Bonjour à tous,
Avec ma compagne, nous envisageons de prendre un mois pour voyager en Namibie en décembre. Nous nous posons quelques petites questions:
-Faut-il un 4x4 ou un voiture classique suffit? Le 4x4 est quand même beaucoup plus cher, donc si on peut s'en passer, on préférerait.. -Comment est le temps généralement en décembre? Y a-t-il beaucoup de pluie? -Faut-il réserver les hébergements à l'avance? On n'aime pas trop planifier à l'avance et on aimerait bien organiser le voyage sur place en fonction de nos envies
Qu'en pensez-vous?
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses!
Avec ma compagne, nous envisageons de prendre un mois pour voyager en Namibie en décembre. Nous nous posons quelques petites questions:
-Faut-il un 4x4 ou un voiture classique suffit? Le 4x4 est quand même beaucoup plus cher, donc si on peut s'en passer, on préférerait.. -Comment est le temps généralement en décembre? Y a-t-il beaucoup de pluie? -Faut-il réserver les hébergements à l'avance? On n'aime pas trop planifier à l'avance et on aimerait bien organiser le voyage sur place en fonction de nos envies
Qu'en pensez-vous?
Merci d'avance pour vos réponses!
Savan' namibia
Pour la troisième année consécutive nous avons pris la direction de l'Afrique Australe. Que voulez-vous, nous sommes gravement atteints d'addiction à ce petit coin du monde 😛.
Retour donc en Namibie, deux ans après notre premier voyage qui nous avait tant enchantés.
Devant nous, 15 jours pour une découverte concentrée essentiellement sur la région Kunene (Damaraland et Kaokoveld).

A priori, que du bonheur en perspective 🙂.
Ce voyage sera également l'occasion d'une VF rencontre …
Notre indispensable compagnon à 4 roues sera un Hilux 3.0 TD automatic dans sa version safari, réservé auprès d'Asco Car Hire.
Il sera secondé par son fidèle lieutenant GPS équipé de T4A (qui se révèlera indispensable dans le Kaokoland).
Pour les hébergements, après hésitations, nous avons décidé de ne pas faire de camping et avons opté pour lodges et bungalows en self-catering.
Comme pour chaque voyage, nous avons conçu l'itinéraire, choisi les hébergements. Puis, nous avons confié les réservations et l'organisation sur place à Madiza Tours. C'est la deuxième fois que nous faisons appel à cette agence et nous n’avons rien à redire.
En toute honnêteté, nous aurions véritablement pu faire sans, d’autant que nous imposons notre propre circuit et nos hébergements, mais dans un souci de simplification, ce n’est pas l’option que nous avons adopté. Cela ne coûte pas plus cher et cela permet de n’avoir d’un seul interlocuteur, un seul paiement à effectuer …
En piste pour nos tribulations namibiennes.
Retour donc en Namibie, deux ans après notre premier voyage qui nous avait tant enchantés.
Devant nous, 15 jours pour une découverte concentrée essentiellement sur la région Kunene (Damaraland et Kaokoveld).

A priori, que du bonheur en perspective 🙂.
Ce voyage sera également l'occasion d'une VF rencontre …
Notre indispensable compagnon à 4 roues sera un Hilux 3.0 TD automatic dans sa version safari, réservé auprès d'Asco Car Hire.
Il sera secondé par son fidèle lieutenant GPS équipé de T4A (qui se révèlera indispensable dans le Kaokoland).
Pour les hébergements, après hésitations, nous avons décidé de ne pas faire de camping et avons opté pour lodges et bungalows en self-catering.
Comme pour chaque voyage, nous avons conçu l'itinéraire, choisi les hébergements. Puis, nous avons confié les réservations et l'organisation sur place à Madiza Tours. C'est la deuxième fois que nous faisons appel à cette agence et nous n’avons rien à redire.
En toute honnêteté, nous aurions véritablement pu faire sans, d’autant que nous imposons notre propre circuit et nos hébergements, mais dans un souci de simplification, ce n’est pas l’option que nous avons adopté. Cela ne coûte pas plus cher et cela permet de n’avoir d’un seul interlocuteur, un seul paiement à effectuer …
En piste pour nos tribulations namibiennes.
Campings en Namibie
Bonjour à tous
Nous envisageons de partir en Namibie en octobre prochain . Nous comptons louer un véhicule 4x4 équipé de toile de tente, de manière à pouvoir passer les nuits en camping . Nous nous posons les questions suivantes :
Existe t il une liste des camping avec descriptif des installations ?
Douches, wc, restaurant etc....
Devons nous réserver avant notre départ ?
Merci de vos réponses ,
Voyage Namibie
Bonjour à tous,
J'ai 18 ans et part faire un tour du monde en octobre.
Je pense passer le mois de janvier ou de février en Namibie, étant au début des recherches j'aimerais avoir des avis de personnes y étant allées et des conseils sur les endroits à voir et ceux qui ne valent pas forcément le détour.
Je veux aller voir les Chutes Victoria et j'aimerai voir un maximum d'animaux quels parcs me conseillez vous ?
Règlement des droits d'entrée dans les parcs (Zambie)
Bonsoir à tou(te)s !
Je voudrais savoir si le tarif pour les étrangers est une conversion en $ d'un prix en Kwacha ou si le tarif est bien en $ dès le départ. (Idem pour le prix des logements d'ailleurs)
En effet, j'ai vu sur certains sites de lodge des tarifs uniquement en Kwacha et cela allège singulièrement la note vu le chute de l'Euro face au $. (Pas vraiment de chute face au Kwacha, au contraire...)
Merci 🙂
Je voudrais savoir si le tarif pour les étrangers est une conversion en $ d'un prix en Kwacha ou si le tarif est bien en $ dès le départ. (Idem pour le prix des logements d'ailleurs)
En effet, j'ai vu sur certains sites de lodge des tarifs uniquement en Kwacha et cela allège singulièrement la note vu le chute de l'Euro face au $. (Pas vraiment de chute face au Kwacha, au contraire...)
Merci 🙂
Parc transfrontalier de Kgalagadi: durée et distance
Bonjour
J'ai réservé 5 nuits au transfrontier kgalaladi pour fin juin
Je me demande combien de temps pour le trajet entre le camp de khahalari tentes et l'aéroport de Upington
Je me demande si la route est bonne ou si elle est pleines de potholes ( nid de poules ) comme souvent en ADS sur les secondaires
Je me demande egalement si il ya beaucoup de camions , vues les frontières proches .
Je suis allee 2 x à Kruger , et ce parc a l'air super , peut on passer les frontières à l'intérieur du parc , avec la wildcard et le 4X4 de loc , il y a t'il un surcoût si on ne sort pas du parc ?
Si Il y a des connaisseurs merci de m'éclairer
Jepezzo
Choix d'agence - Namibie
Bonjour à tous,
Voilà, je pars en Namibie et j'ai eu 2 propositions de deux TO:MADIZA et TOURMALINE. Je souhaiterai avoir vos avis. Je ne sais pas lequel choisir. Madiza est un peu moins cher...Il y a -t-il des personnes qui sont partis avec ces agences?
Voilà, je pars en Namibie et j'ai eu 2 propositions de deux TO:MADIZA et TOURMALINE. Je souhaiterai avoir vos avis. Je ne sais pas lequel choisir. Madiza est un peu moins cher...Il y a -t-il des personnes qui sont partis avec ces agences?
Quelle agence choisir pour la Tanzanie?
Bonjour à tous,
Je sais que le sujet a été maintes fois ressassé, mais les choses évoluent et on pourrait peut-être faire une mise à jour des ressentis.
Donc, voilà, j'ai fait faire des devis à guides et agences et je ne sais pas trop comment choisir. On a l'impression qu'ils proposent tous à peu près la même chose, si ce n'est une présentation de devis plus ou moins belle! Mes critères sont: voir le + d'animaux possible, si possible sans avoir d'autres 4x4 que le mien (et oui, je suis égoïste!), sécurité maximale, voiture en bon état de marche, 4x4 avec roof-top, guide sympa et qui s'y connait, hébergements simples mais propres, budget limité.
Alors, j'hésite entre: Peter Nassari, Moses Cliff Mwanga, Bobby Tours, Bel Africa, Shidolya, HotSunSafaris, Corto Safaris, African Road Safaris et Allibert.
Merci d'avance à ceux qui voudront bien m'aider.
Cordialement
Je sais que le sujet a été maintes fois ressassé, mais les choses évoluent et on pourrait peut-être faire une mise à jour des ressentis.
Donc, voilà, j'ai fait faire des devis à guides et agences et je ne sais pas trop comment choisir. On a l'impression qu'ils proposent tous à peu près la même chose, si ce n'est une présentation de devis plus ou moins belle! Mes critères sont: voir le + d'animaux possible, si possible sans avoir d'autres 4x4 que le mien (et oui, je suis égoïste!), sécurité maximale, voiture en bon état de marche, 4x4 avec roof-top, guide sympa et qui s'y connait, hébergements simples mais propres, budget limité.
Alors, j'hésite entre: Peter Nassari, Moses Cliff Mwanga, Bobby Tours, Bel Africa, Shidolya, HotSunSafaris, Corto Safaris, African Road Safaris et Allibert.
Merci d'avance à ceux qui voudront bien m'aider.
Cordialement









