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Discover the 10 Must-See Spots in Sardinia
If you're dreaming of idyllic beaches and picturesque villages, you're in the right place! Known for its crystal-clear waters, millennia-old traditions, and preserved nature, Sardinia captivates travelers seeking a change of scenery. Here, you can enjoy a spectacular coastline, but also discover the authentic heart of the island, with its wild mountains and history-laden towns. Visiting Sardinia means taking the time to let yourself be lulled by the song of cicadas and the scent of the maquis. Escape to Sardinia with an all-inclusive stay at a 5-star hotel, allowing you to get away from it all.
To help you plan your itinerary, here’s an overview of ten must-see spots and a few off-the-beaten-path escapes.
Cagliari, the vibrant capital
Often the first point of contact with the island, Cagliari charms with its historic center, dominated by the medieval Castello district. Stroll through the narrow streets to reach the Santa Maria Cathedral, then climb up to the Saint-Remy Bastion, where the view of the city and the sea is well worth the effort. Be sure to visit the San Benedetto market, where stalls of cheeses, cured meats, and fish reflect Sardinia’s culinary diversity.
Villasimius, fine sand and turquoise waters
Less than an hour’s drive from Cagliari, the Villasimius area is famous for its dreamy beaches, including Porto Giunco and Simius Beach. The white sand contrasts beautifully with the crystal-clear blue of the sea—a postcard-perfect setting. Diving enthusiasts will be delighted, while hikers can explore Capo Carbonara, a protected area home to pink flamingos.
Costa Smeralda, the glamorous side of the island
Renowned for its prestigious seaside resorts, the Costa Smeralda attracts yachts and lively evenings. Porto Cervo, its iconic port, draws travelers from around the world. Don’t worry—if you venture a little off the beaten path, you’ll find small, wild coves and trails lined with umbrella pines. A stop at a local wine bar to taste a glass of vermentino is highly recommended, if only to admire the view.
The La Maddalena Archipelago, a marine gem
In the northeast, this national marine park comprises several islands with stunning beaches. La Maddalena, the main island, charms with its colorful houses and lively port. Offshore, wonders like Spargi Island or the famous Pink Beach of Budelli await visitors. It’s best to dedicate a full day—or more—to exploring this paradise by boat.
Alghero, the Catalan city
On the northwest coast, Alghero reveals a historic center encircled by ramparts, where the Catalan influence is still strong. Walk along the fortifications to watch the sunset, then sample the local cuisine, focused on seafood and wine. A short drive away, Neptune’s Grotto is a spectacular site: you can reach it via a staircase of 654 steps carved into the cliff or by boat for a more romantic approach.
Bosa, a painting under the open sky
Heading south along the coast from Alghero, you’ll reach Bosa, one of Sardinia’s most charming villages. Its colorful houses line the Temo River, overlooked by the Serravalle Castle. Wander the streets, admiring the vibrant facades, then settle into a small restaurant to taste the famous bottarga. The atmosphere is peaceful—this is la dolce vita.
The Piscinas Dunes, a desert by the sea
Head southwest to discover Piscinas, a natural site where sand dunes evoke a desert. Between sparse vegetation and turquoise sea, the contrast is simply stunning. The beaches, rarely crowded, offer a soothing tranquility. A perfect spot for lovers of wild landscapes, far from the hustle and bustle of seaside resorts.
Su Nuraxi di Barumini, a prehistoric relic
You can’t truly understand Sardinian history without mentioning the nuraghes, mysterious stone towers left by the Nuragic civilization. In Barumini, you can explore Su Nuraxi, the most famous, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its millennia-old architecture and vast complex make it a must-visit for anyone wanting to delve into the island’s past.
Orgosolo and the mountainous interior
To experience the deep soul of Sardinia, head to the Supramonte massif. Orgosolo, once a bandit hideout, is known for its mural paintings adorning house facades. These artworks tell the local history, social struggles, and Sardinian pride. The surrounding nature is breathtaking: forests, canyons, and panoramic views invite you to hike.
The Gulf of Orosei, dreamy coves
Finally, it’s hard to miss the beaches of the Gulf of Orosei. Cala Luna, Cala Mariolu, and Cala Goloritzé are among the most beautiful in the Mediterranean. Accessible by boat or on foot, each reveals transparent waters perfect for diving. Time seems to stand still in these wild landscapes, immersing you in the charm of a preserved Sardinia. From its sandy beaches to its rugged mountains, the island offers a stunning array of scenery. Far beyond the Costa Smeralda, Sardinia is full of hidden corners where nature reigns supreme and traditions are still very much alive. Once there, let yourself be swept up by the Sardinian dolce vita, savor its generous cuisine, and soak in its legends.
Happy travels!
12 days in Israel, before...
This trip took place in May 2023, a period of calm that later proved precarious.
Day of May 17
Departure from Marseille on El Al (tickets booked by ourselves, while the stay itself was organized by Voyageurs du Monde). Before check-in, six or seven El Al staff members conduct a security check—quite understandable, but they do it in total chaos. They send people to the left, then block them, redirect them to the right, for no apparent reason. Most of the staff don’t speak French, which complicates things. They work at an incomprehensible slow pace, stopping the interview to do something else, then coming back and starting over...
The flight goes smoothly, except for the meal service, which, for a four-hour flight that El Al delayed to lunchtime, is more than basic: a quarter-liter of water and a corned beef sandwich that’s absolutely disgusting and inedible. To get a coffee, you have to queue at the back of the plane. You end up missing Ryanair🙂
Arrival at Ben Gurion goes better than expected—the passport control is fairly quick, as is baggage delivery.
Transfer to the Lily and Bloom hotel, Lilienblaum Street (easy to remember 🙂)
As advised by Voyageurs du Monde, we book a table for the evening at the nearest restaurant, North Abraxas. Good atmosphere and decent food. We get a sense of the price level in Israeli restaurants.
Around us, diners share dishes placed in the middle of the table. Much more convivial than our individual plates!!
Day of May 18
The next morning, we go down for breakfast at 7:30 AM—a late hour, but the setup is slow, with the two servers taking their time. We ask the bartender for a long coffee and a black tea... It must be a complicated order because it takes him over 10 minutes to make it. He serves us with the grace of a dancer. A good breakfast if you’re not in a hurry, followed by a little stroll in the neighborhood, since our meet-up with Patrick Arfi, our guide for the day, isn’t until 10 AM. P. Arfi is a former publishing house director in Paris who has lived in Israel for a long time and has a vast cultural knowledge. After an initial chat, we head toward Jaffa, focusing on the Bauhaus buildings preserved by a clever urban policy that allows high-rise construction while maintaining old architectural ensembles.
This policy keeps the streets looking more human-scale than the usual high-rise districts in modern cities.
With the visit to Jaffa, Patrick introduces us to a fascinating slice of history, despite the temperature nearing 38°C. Jaffa, once an independent city, is now a neighborhood of Tel Aviv—a predominantly Muslim area. We notice a few buildings in poor condition. They belong to Palestinian families who left Tel Aviv. Otherwise, the city has been very well restored, apart from these few buildings.
A government agency rents out the ground floors of these buildings, which helps fund part of the security work. They also try to track down the owners and buy back the abandoned properties, but some refuse to sell. The visit is very touristy—most of the people we meet are tourists like us.
There’s very little local life, except in the lower part of the city. To be continued, as I’ve reached the allowed photo limit.
The next morning, we go down for breakfast at 7:30 AM—a late hour, but the setup is slow, with the two servers taking their time. We ask the bartender for a long coffee and a black tea... It must be a complicated order because it takes him over 10 minutes to make it. He serves us with the grace of a dancer. A good breakfast if you’re not in a hurry, followed by a little stroll in the neighborhood, since our meet-up with Patrick Arfi, our guide for the day, isn’t until 10 AM. P. Arfi is a former publishing house director in Paris who has lived in Israel for a long time and has a vast cultural knowledge. After an initial chat, we head toward Jaffa, focusing on the Bauhaus buildings preserved by a clever urban policy that allows high-rise construction while maintaining old architectural ensembles.
This policy keeps the streets looking more human-scale than the usual high-rise districts in modern cities.
With the visit to Jaffa, Patrick introduces us to a fascinating slice of history, despite the temperature nearing 38°C. Jaffa, once an independent city, is now a neighborhood of Tel Aviv—a predominantly Muslim area. We notice a few buildings in poor condition. They belong to Palestinian families who left Tel Aviv. Otherwise, the city has been very well restored, apart from these few buildings.
A government agency rents out the ground floors of these buildings, which helps fund part of the security work. They also try to track down the owners and buy back the abandoned properties, but some refuse to sell. The visit is very touristy—most of the people we meet are tourists like us.
There’s very little local life, except in the lower part of the city. To be continued, as I’ve reached the allowed photo limit.
Wild camping in Morocco?
Hello,
Is it possible to consider wild camping with young children, mainly in the Anti-Atlas? It’s not an option for budget reasons but rather a way of traveling we enjoy.
If we get the landowner’s permission and offer compensation, is it feasible?
Happy New Year to you all
If we get the landowner’s permission and offer compensation, is it feasible?
Happy New Year to you all
Crete Spring 2024
CRETE
Spring 2024 from April 11 to May 9
Thursday, April 11: Flight Montreal – Athens (Air Canada # AC 898) Flight Athens – Heraklion (Air Agean # A 3318) Fri 12, Sat 13, and Sun 14 April: Heraklion: Marin Dream Hotel: room great (a bit cramped); location great; breakfast excellent. Spectacular view (5th floor) of the port, balcony, close to the center and restaurants, cleanliness and comfort. I’ll definitely go back! We enjoyed this city, often unfairly criticized because it’s compared to the "three beauties." It’s a great entry point to the island, lets you catch your breath after a few hours of flying and jet lag, and you won’t get bored for 2-3 days. Monday, April 15 am: Car rental (pickup at the airport) Rental company: Auto Europe / Enterprise. Opel Corsica. Efficient and courteous service. Clean car in good condition. No issues. Quick return. I’ll rent again. PS: The two trips between the city center and the airport: public transport (bus): fast, efficient, and cheap.
Mon 15, Tue 16, and Wed 17 April: Agios Nikolaos Highlights: Kritsa, Knossos, Spinalonga, and Mochlos (for the breathtaking descent and the restaurant (Taverna Natural) a short distance from the descent). Accommodation in Ammoudara 72 100 (7-8 km from A.N.): Panorama Bay Villas Apartments. Location (elevated with a view of the blue sea), setting (unbeatable view), convenience, cleanliness, pool: Excellent. I’d run back here. A breakfast in Kritsa is lovely.
Thu 18 and Fri 19 April: Mirtos 720 56: A small seaside town, a bit sleepy, that can be summed up by a main street parallel and very close to the sea, with simple and smiling people. A base for lovely mountain hikes... and Gortyn. Accommodation: Hotel Mirtos: I’ve seen better! But it was only for 2 nights, and considering the rates, the enormous breakfast, and the kindness of the lady... it’s hard to complain. I’d go back if I’m in the area... for 1 or 2 nights. A taverna worth mentioning: Sigelakis, in Sivas. Sat 20, Sun 21, and Mon 22 April: Matala area: Matala: can someone explain the hype? But we were charmed by the region, its small villages (a little nod to Agia Galini), a small mountain school with its students and teacher, and its hidden little beaches... and a taverna (whose owner was a shepherd in another life) and a restaurant where we had our 3 dinners (no need to look elsewhere!). Accommodation in Kamilari(on) 700 20: Aelia Apartments: A long, narrow road through olive groves... the further we went, the more we thought we were on the wrong track! Phew! What an apartment (kitchenette, living room, two bedrooms including one in a mezzanine, balcony). Phew! What a setting, overlooking the surroundings from the terrace! I’d book again right away! Tue 23, Wed 24, and Thu 25 April: Plakias: A favorite! A lovely seaside walk with several terrace bars for an aperitif and really feeling on vacation. Morning hikes and discoveries, and in the afternoon, beach-pool at all-inclusive resorts a few kilometers away (one drink gets you in) and other small beaches. The charm of Spili, the softness of Loutro, and the enchantment of the Imbros Gorge. Accommodation: Horizon Beach Hotel: on the upper floor, a large bright room, a big balcony, and the vast sea right in front of us. Great location. A 10-15 minute walk from the center of Plakias. A great find: I’ll remember this address. In the center, on a street perpendicular to the sea, at the end of this street on your left (facing a tiny bar), one of our best dinners in Crete. The Plakias-Chora Sfakion road is breathtaking, but avoid the road—or rather the path—that hugs the sea too closely... which we didn’t do. Guaranteed sweating!
Fri 26, Sat 27, Sun 28, and Mon 29: Chania: The "big" city. The contrast with the Cretan countryside! Chania offers many attractions for tourists. We happily got "lost" in its alleys. We really enjoyed the quays for a drink at any time and for the lively atmosphere... but I wouldn’t want to be there in July! Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Del Doge. Good location. Close to the port and well soundproofed. A slightly faded decor but very decent. Spacious room and a somewhat narrow bathroom. Parking in a vacant lot along the sea: a 15-20 minute walk. I’d go back unless I find something better! Our favorite spots: we’ll remember Faka, To Stachi, and a restaurant in the center of a small square in the old part (every time we passed by, the TV was on a sports channel!) for the food, service, and friendliness of the staff. AND the ice cream! Great excursions to Valmos and Balos, Kefalas, Kaviles, Almirida, and Gavalochori. Three (3) days would have been enough to get a good sense of the city and the immediate area. It’s not a city—and I’m not even talking about the historic part—where it’s easy to drive. Tue 30, Wed May 1, and Thu 2: Paleochora. Or rather near Paleochora, in Kountoura Selinou (730 01), we stayed at Vienna Rooms Apartments. A few kilometers from the city, a short 10-minute drive, in a lovely olive grove that makes you forget the greenhouses that proliferate in the neighborhood. A large green garden, a big pool, tranquility, and the sea in front of you. Lovely apartments, well furnished, functional, and brand new (still smells new!) On the P-KS road, halfway, on the sea side, there’s a small, brand-new hotel where I’ll stop next time. What a view from the upper floor! Paleochora is a charming little town with a pleasant seaside promenade and an inner street parallel to it, lined with pretty shops. And an important detail: there’s a well-stocked wine bar, Monika Wine Bar, with attentive staff. A good selection of restaurants and a superb breakfast offering. What extraordinary excursions! Elafonissi, Sougia by boat, and up high, many tiny villages and breathtaking panoramas! Fri 03, Sat 04, and Happy Easter May 05: Rethymnon Accommodation: Hotel Casa dei Delfini. Very well located, comfortable, modern, with a certain prestige. A large dining room, stone walls, and a monumental staircase... feels like a castle (parador) in Spain... and a great breakfast. Friendly staff. The market where you can park is a 10-minute walk away. I’ll book again. Of the three "beauties" of Crete, this is our favorite. The center doesn’t (yet) have the "shopping mall" vibe that Chania has a bit too much. It feels good there. It has a cheerful air. Great restaurants. Easter day: visit around Arkadi. Otherwise, we strolled through the city to soak in the beauty of this island. Mon 06, Tue 07, and Wed 08 May: Athens. Flight Aegean #3307 (from Heraklion) Thu 09 May: Return flight: Athens-Montreal. Air Canada #899.
This was our second trip to Greece but our first to Crete. I say "first" because we’re seriously thinking of coming back in May 2025. We traveled in the blooming spring, so without the tourist crowds, and with restaurant and hotel staff in good shape... we could imagine what Crete must be like between July 15 and August 15!!! So our comments should be considered with that in mind. We’re a couple, she’s 76, and he—the driver, GPS, road map, and more—is 79. We’re living proof that Cretan roads are good. They wind, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—sometimes narrow, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—but they’re in very good condition, and Cretan drivers are respectful. Ideal travel climate: not a drop of rain or I don’t remember any! We’ll come back in May for a bit more warmth to enjoy the sea more. Food: the quality and quantity of breakfasts; dinners are good or even very good but sometimes a bit "copy-paste." Landscapes, green mountains, dark canyons (what we saw at 76+79), and endless deep blue, breathtaking. Tomatoes, olives, and honey: we’d want more. The trust restaurateurs show: you have to insist to get the bill!!! Easter: we were in Rethymnon: the crowd was much less oppressive than in Chania two weeks earlier. The kindness and eagerness of people in shops and on the street... which doubles or triples when you stammer a few words of Greek. Our favorites: Kamilari, Plakias, and... Heraklion, yes. In short, we loved it!
PS: Car rental: Why Auto Europe (Enterprise)? The ‘small local rental companies’ don’t rent (re: insurance) to people over 75 springs old!
Thursday, April 11: Flight Montreal – Athens (Air Canada # AC 898) Flight Athens – Heraklion (Air Agean # A 3318) Fri 12, Sat 13, and Sun 14 April: Heraklion: Marin Dream Hotel: room great (a bit cramped); location great; breakfast excellent. Spectacular view (5th floor) of the port, balcony, close to the center and restaurants, cleanliness and comfort. I’ll definitely go back! We enjoyed this city, often unfairly criticized because it’s compared to the "three beauties." It’s a great entry point to the island, lets you catch your breath after a few hours of flying and jet lag, and you won’t get bored for 2-3 days. Monday, April 15 am: Car rental (pickup at the airport) Rental company: Auto Europe / Enterprise. Opel Corsica. Efficient and courteous service. Clean car in good condition. No issues. Quick return. I’ll rent again. PS: The two trips between the city center and the airport: public transport (bus): fast, efficient, and cheap.
Mon 15, Tue 16, and Wed 17 April: Agios Nikolaos Highlights: Kritsa, Knossos, Spinalonga, and Mochlos (for the breathtaking descent and the restaurant (Taverna Natural) a short distance from the descent). Accommodation in Ammoudara 72 100 (7-8 km from A.N.): Panorama Bay Villas Apartments. Location (elevated with a view of the blue sea), setting (unbeatable view), convenience, cleanliness, pool: Excellent. I’d run back here. A breakfast in Kritsa is lovely.
Thu 18 and Fri 19 April: Mirtos 720 56: A small seaside town, a bit sleepy, that can be summed up by a main street parallel and very close to the sea, with simple and smiling people. A base for lovely mountain hikes... and Gortyn. Accommodation: Hotel Mirtos: I’ve seen better! But it was only for 2 nights, and considering the rates, the enormous breakfast, and the kindness of the lady... it’s hard to complain. I’d go back if I’m in the area... for 1 or 2 nights. A taverna worth mentioning: Sigelakis, in Sivas. Sat 20, Sun 21, and Mon 22 April: Matala area: Matala: can someone explain the hype? But we were charmed by the region, its small villages (a little nod to Agia Galini), a small mountain school with its students and teacher, and its hidden little beaches... and a taverna (whose owner was a shepherd in another life) and a restaurant where we had our 3 dinners (no need to look elsewhere!). Accommodation in Kamilari(on) 700 20: Aelia Apartments: A long, narrow road through olive groves... the further we went, the more we thought we were on the wrong track! Phew! What an apartment (kitchenette, living room, two bedrooms including one in a mezzanine, balcony). Phew! What a setting, overlooking the surroundings from the terrace! I’d book again right away! Tue 23, Wed 24, and Thu 25 April: Plakias: A favorite! A lovely seaside walk with several terrace bars for an aperitif and really feeling on vacation. Morning hikes and discoveries, and in the afternoon, beach-pool at all-inclusive resorts a few kilometers away (one drink gets you in) and other small beaches. The charm of Spili, the softness of Loutro, and the enchantment of the Imbros Gorge. Accommodation: Horizon Beach Hotel: on the upper floor, a large bright room, a big balcony, and the vast sea right in front of us. Great location. A 10-15 minute walk from the center of Plakias. A great find: I’ll remember this address. In the center, on a street perpendicular to the sea, at the end of this street on your left (facing a tiny bar), one of our best dinners in Crete. The Plakias-Chora Sfakion road is breathtaking, but avoid the road—or rather the path—that hugs the sea too closely... which we didn’t do. Guaranteed sweating!
Fri 26, Sat 27, Sun 28, and Mon 29: Chania: The "big" city. The contrast with the Cretan countryside! Chania offers many attractions for tourists. We happily got "lost" in its alleys. We really enjoyed the quays for a drink at any time and for the lively atmosphere... but I wouldn’t want to be there in July! Accommodation: Boutique Hotel Del Doge. Good location. Close to the port and well soundproofed. A slightly faded decor but very decent. Spacious room and a somewhat narrow bathroom. Parking in a vacant lot along the sea: a 15-20 minute walk. I’d go back unless I find something better! Our favorite spots: we’ll remember Faka, To Stachi, and a restaurant in the center of a small square in the old part (every time we passed by, the TV was on a sports channel!) for the food, service, and friendliness of the staff. AND the ice cream! Great excursions to Valmos and Balos, Kefalas, Kaviles, Almirida, and Gavalochori. Three (3) days would have been enough to get a good sense of the city and the immediate area. It’s not a city—and I’m not even talking about the historic part—where it’s easy to drive. Tue 30, Wed May 1, and Thu 2: Paleochora. Or rather near Paleochora, in Kountoura Selinou (730 01), we stayed at Vienna Rooms Apartments. A few kilometers from the city, a short 10-minute drive, in a lovely olive grove that makes you forget the greenhouses that proliferate in the neighborhood. A large green garden, a big pool, tranquility, and the sea in front of you. Lovely apartments, well furnished, functional, and brand new (still smells new!) On the P-KS road, halfway, on the sea side, there’s a small, brand-new hotel where I’ll stop next time. What a view from the upper floor! Paleochora is a charming little town with a pleasant seaside promenade and an inner street parallel to it, lined with pretty shops. And an important detail: there’s a well-stocked wine bar, Monika Wine Bar, with attentive staff. A good selection of restaurants and a superb breakfast offering. What extraordinary excursions! Elafonissi, Sougia by boat, and up high, many tiny villages and breathtaking panoramas! Fri 03, Sat 04, and Happy Easter May 05: Rethymnon Accommodation: Hotel Casa dei Delfini. Very well located, comfortable, modern, with a certain prestige. A large dining room, stone walls, and a monumental staircase... feels like a castle (parador) in Spain... and a great breakfast. Friendly staff. The market where you can park is a 10-minute walk away. I’ll book again. Of the three "beauties" of Crete, this is our favorite. The center doesn’t (yet) have the "shopping mall" vibe that Chania has a bit too much. It feels good there. It has a cheerful air. Great restaurants. Easter day: visit around Arkadi. Otherwise, we strolled through the city to soak in the beauty of this island. Mon 06, Tue 07, and Wed 08 May: Athens. Flight Aegean #3307 (from Heraklion) Thu 09 May: Return flight: Athens-Montreal. Air Canada #899.
This was our second trip to Greece but our first to Crete. I say "first" because we’re seriously thinking of coming back in May 2025. We traveled in the blooming spring, so without the tourist crowds, and with restaurant and hotel staff in good shape... we could imagine what Crete must be like between July 15 and August 15!!! So our comments should be considered with that in mind. We’re a couple, she’s 76, and he—the driver, GPS, road map, and more—is 79. We’re living proof that Cretan roads are good. They wind, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—sometimes narrow, which is normal—we’re in the mountains—but they’re in very good condition, and Cretan drivers are respectful. Ideal travel climate: not a drop of rain or I don’t remember any! We’ll come back in May for a bit more warmth to enjoy the sea more. Food: the quality and quantity of breakfasts; dinners are good or even very good but sometimes a bit "copy-paste." Landscapes, green mountains, dark canyons (what we saw at 76+79), and endless deep blue, breathtaking. Tomatoes, olives, and honey: we’d want more. The trust restaurateurs show: you have to insist to get the bill!!! Easter: we were in Rethymnon: the crowd was much less oppressive than in Chania two weeks earlier. The kindness and eagerness of people in shops and on the street... which doubles or triples when you stammer a few words of Greek. Our favorites: Kamilari, Plakias, and... Heraklion, yes. In short, we loved it!
PS: Car rental: Why Auto Europe (Enterprise)? The ‘small local rental companies’ don’t rent (re: insurance) to people over 75 springs old!
Visiting French Polynesia or other islands?
Hi,
When I hear our French friends talk about them, they’re the most beautiful islands in the world.
For those of you who’ve traveled extensively, is that really the case?
Are the prices for accommodation, even basic ones, justified? Isn’t a room in a family-run guesthouse at 150/200 € a bit much?
Are there other islands in Polynesia (non-French) that are just as "paradise-like" but more affordable?
I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Exploring California's major coastal cities in two weeks
We’d like to do the California coast in two weeks this September.
Two adults, rental car, and Airbnb.
First time except for San Francisco, where we’re starting a cruise.
Is San Francisco-Los Angeles-San Diego doable?
If not, what are the must-sees?
Thanks! !
Eastern Crete in September 2024
Travel journal in Eastern Crete from September 8th to 29th, 2024
Our 21-day itinerary
Sunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello Bay
Tuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terrace
Wednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of Kritsa
Thursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!
Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from Anatoli
Friday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from Anatoli
Sunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
Our 21-day itinerarySunday, 08/09: Once again—and this is the eighth time—we’re setting off, the four of us: Patrick, Michelle, Jacques, and Monique, for the Greek islands. This time, we’ve chosen Crete. No need to wake up at 3 or 4 a.m. to reach Basel-Mulhouse Airport at dawn to catch the first flight to Greece at 6 a.m.! Given the prohibitive prices charged by EasyJet, we found flights that were half the price from Zurich Airport, which is accessible in 3 hours by train from Colmar. Pierre-Paul drives all four of us to Colmar train station, where we take the train to Basel and then, 20 minutes later, the direct train to Zurich Airport. After wandering around the airport, we go for a coffee at 6 € each! We’re in Switzerland, after all. The other dining areas all have vending machines for selecting and paying for meals—soon, there won’t be anyone left to serve you! After a short wait, we take off at 7:45 p.m. (20 minutes late) in an Aegean Airbus A321. Free in-flight meal service isn’t bad either! We land in Heraklion around 11:15 p.m. We pick up our rental car (a red Seat Ibiza) at the airport and head straight to our apartment, located 2 km from the city center. Thanks to the GPS, we find it quickly. It’s a beautiful, fully renovated apartment with all the comforts and well-equipped. On the table, there’s wine, bottles of water, jam, coffee, etc. Given the late hour, we won’t stay up long.
Monday, 09/09: To enhance our breakfast, Michelle and Monique set off to find a bakery nearby. They return with croissants and donuts—yum... Then we head to the west coast. The highway follows the coastline, but we prefer taking the old road to Malia, our first stop. We visit the major archaeological site of this Minoan city under the hot sun. The site covers a vast area, but the ruins aren’t very evocative except for a few beautiful amphorae scattered around. The explanations in a small house at the entrance are interesting and help us better understand the organization of the ancient city with its different districts. From there, we head toward the nearby mountains to see the thousand-year-old plane tree in the village of Krasi. We take the opportunity to enjoy an excellent lunch of moussaka and delicious gemista at the Krassopsychia taverna in the village center. Pleasant surprise: the prices are still reasonable, with a bill of 70 € for four, including wine and water. The friendly tradition of complimentary dessert and glasses of raki continues—great! We’ve set the bar high right away! Let’s hope the rest lives up to it! On the way back toward the Lassithi Plateau, we stop at the Kardiotisa Monastery perched high on the mountain to enjoy a magnificent view of the entire region. Just a little further, we arrive at the Lassithi Plateau: the presence of small windmills used to pump water from the ground is the typical feature of this plateau. We complete a full loop around the plateau, passing by numerous orchards and vegetable gardens that occupy the entire space. At the end of the plateau, we once again cross mountain passes via winding roads that bring us near Agios Nikolaos. Our apartment is located about ten kilometers further south in Amoudhara. The owner, who was notified, waits for us and shows us her superb apartment, whose large terrace overlooks the entire Mirabello Bay. She then gives us valuable information about the different beaches in the area. Dinner will be frugal, given our hearty lunch in Krasi!
Sunset over Mirabello BayTuesday, 10/09: A bit of a gray sky when we wake up around 8 a.m., but the sun will soon triumph over the scattered clouds. For our first swim, we opt for Voulisma Beach, even though our host warned us it was a bit “crowdy.” That’s understandable given the beautiful emerald color of the sea and the lovely curve of the beach. To avoid the big crowds, we move toward the eastern part of the beach, accessible via a steep staircase. The water is very warm, and this first dip is very pleasant. Before returning to the apartment, we stop at the bakery to buy spinach pies, essential ingredients to accompany our Greek salad for lunch. Of course, everything will be washed down with ouzo, which will remain our favorite drink for the next three weeks—but in moderation!!! A nap is in order after all that effort. In the late afternoon, we drive to Agios Nikolaos, the main seaside resort in Crete. We’re not too enthusiastic about visiting this mass-tourism resort, but the center of Agios, concentrated around the small inner harbor, is pleasant to see despite the plethora of shops and restaurants. We dine a little outside the harbor in the shaded courtyard of the Avli taverna: the oven-baked lamb, squid with spinach, and cuttlefish ink orzo pasta are all highly appreciated. We still stay under a 75 € bill for four.
Mirabello Bay seen from our terraceWednesday, 11/09: At 8 a.m., the terrace is already bathed in sunlight, and it’s already quite hot. The small parasol barely gives us enough shade, but we’re not complaining! For our second swim, we head to a tiny beach recommended by our host, just 3 minutes by car from our place. The path leading to it is very discreet, and we don’t find it right away! It’s a small sandy cove with a few welcome tamarisk trees for shade. When we arrive, there are two swimmers, and there won’t be more than five or six in the morning. After lunch and a nap, we head to the beautiful village of Kritsa, just a few kilometers away. It’s too late to visit the beautiful church of Kera Panagia, which is already closed. We settle for the exterior, which is worth a look. The weather is clouding over, and big clouds are gathering. Upon arriving in Kritsa, a heavy shower forces us to take shelter in the Platanos taverna in the village center, and since it’s nearly 7 p.m., we decide to stay and dine there. Good choice—excellent meze: croquettes and stuffed zucchini flowers, gigantes beans, grilled tomatoes and feta, and pancetta as the main dish. The rain stops just as we decide to head back.
Village of KritsaThursday, 12/09: Our terrace faces east, so we get to watch the sunrise around 7 a.m.—it’s truly a beautiful sight we never tire of. Around 9 a.m., we head to the village of Plaka, where boats depart for the island of Spinalonga, located north of Agios Nikolaos. We board the first boat, which sets sail at 10 a.m., and we’re not alone—the boat is practically full. After 10 minutes, we land on the island at the same time as several other boats from Elounda or Agios. Needless to say, there are already quite a few people walking through the streets of the leper village. The visit remains interesting and moving as we read the explanatory panels recounting the island’s history under Byzantine and then Turkish rule, followed by its transformation into a leper colony. As soon as we climb toward the top of the island via more or less maintained paths, there’s almost no one left. The 360° view from up there is stunning.
Spinalonga Island
The heat is now unbearable, and we can’t wait to get back home to have lunch on our terrace and rest. In the late afternoon, we go grocery shopping at the AB supermarket at the entrance of Agios. We had spotted another nice restaurant in our guide, but unfortunately, there’s a different one at the indicated location that doesn’t inspire us. So, we return to the Avli taverna for another dinner just as good as the first.
Friday, 13/09: We repeat yesterday’s successful program: a swim in our little cove, lunch on the terrace, a nap, and then, in the late afternoon, we discover another nearby village, Kroustas, nestled in the olive groves near Kritsa. Much less touristy than Kritsa, it’s mostly inhabited by locals, especially the elderly who are enjoying the cool air on their chairs—if you can call it cool given the still-high temperatures in the late afternoon! We then return to visit Kritsa, which we hadn’t been able to explore due to the rain. Dinner at a taverna in the village center at a very reasonable price.
Saturday, 14/09: Today, we move to our new base further east. We start with a high viewpoint at the Faneromeni Monastery, which overlooks Mirabello Bay. The monastery itself is of little interest as it’s under renovation with excessive concrete work. We continue to the village of Kavoussi to see another exceptional tree after a few kilometers on a dusty, bumpy track. It’s an olive tree said to be about 3,200 years old—impressive, and the countryside is very beautiful. It’s time to find a place for lunch. We find one in the charming little port of Mohlos, where a few tavernas surround a very nice small beach. Our choice falls on the Bogazzi taverna, where we enjoy fried fish. To reach our new base in Zakros, we still have to drive through the mountains before reaching Sitia, Paleokastro, and finally Zakros. The region is beautiful, with olive groves and rows of wind turbines taking advantage of the strong wind near the northern tip of the island. In Zakros, we’re greeted by our very friendly host. Here too, we have all the comforts and a beautiful terrace overlooking the village. The apartment has reversible air conditioners, but the overly simple instructions leave us puzzled. Thinking we’ve set it correctly, we realize a little too late that it’s blowing hot air over 30°C! After numerous attempts and testing several confusing programs, we finally succeed! Dinner on our new terrace.
Sunday, 15/09: This morning, we get up early to hike in the “Gorge of the Dead” while it’s still cool. The sky is blue as usual! We park in the nearest parking lot and start our descent via a beautiful path winding through the olive groves. A little further on, the landscape opens up, and the path, now a stony trail, begins the descent to the dry riverbed. On either side of the riverbed rise beautiful reddish cliffs.
Gorge of the Dead
The trail winds its way through this narrow gorge with difficulty. It was in the many caves visible halfway up the slope that the Minoans buried their dead, hence the name “Gorge of the Dead.” The gorge opens onto a beautiful small pebble beach. A swim is welcome after this hike that made us sweat. The hike took us 1 hour and 25 minutes, and a little less on the way back. Meanwhile, Monique did some shopping and prepared an excellent lunch. In the late afternoon, we go down to dine at Platanakis, a taverna in the small village of Kato Zakros.
Monday, 16/09: This morning, we explore the northern part of the east coast near Palekastro. We start with a dip at the beautiful Hionia Beach near Palekastro. The water is still just as nice, but a light breeze is blowing—not enough to spoil our fun! Seeing all the wind turbines lining the ridges, it’s no surprise.
Grocery shopping in Palekastro and return to Zakros. A little rain in the late afternoon and an excellent dinner at Iannis Mitsakakis’ Taverna in Adravastis. These are the kind of small tavernas we love—unpretentious, a few tables on a terrace, a warm welcome, a short menu guaranteeing freshness, tasty dishes prepared by the server’s mom, and a light bill. What more could you ask for!Tuesday, 17/09: We head back toward Palekastro to do some shopping, but it’s also the road to the Toplou Monastery. There, we see a collection of magnificent icons dating from the 15th to the 20th century. We can also admire drawings of Orthodox religious architecture. We continue toward the Mavros Akrotiri headland to enjoy the view of the sea and rocky capes. On the way back to our place, we make a small detour to see the famous Vai palm grove. Meh... As for Vai Beach, it’s filled with paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and there are so many people that we flee. Plus, having to pay for parking is another reason to snub this trendy beach. We prefer our Hionia Beach, which we already appreciated the other day. In the late afternoon, Pat and I start the trail that begins at Kato Zakros Beach heading south. The poorly marked path crosses a plateau of sharp limestone. The paint and cairn markings are no longer very visible, and with dusk approaching, we turn back toward Kato Zakros. Dinner at the Platanakis taverna—less good than last time.
Wednesday, 18/09: To avoid the scorching sun, Pat, Mimi, and I get up earlier than usual to hike the Hohlakies Gorge. At this early hour, the sky is quite cloudy, and it’s drizzling. When we arrive in the village of Hohlakies, we park in front of a small chapel, the start of the hike. The sky is now completely clear. The trail starts among the olive groves, then after passing through a gate, we descend into the gorge filled with large rocks. We’re alone in the world, and the landscape is magnificent. A few wild goats clinging to the cliff watch us from above. After 1 hour and 15 minutes, we emerge onto the wonderful Karoumès Beach. A pleasant swim, then back to civilization! A walk in the late afternoon in Zakros to discover the beautiful springs route. Dinner in Adravastis.
Thursday, 19/09: Another move: Before heading to our next stop, we make a detour to see the beautiful Keratokampos Beach and can’t resist a swim in the still-warm, clear water. We continue our journey via Ziros, then reach the south coast and have lunch at the Stephi taverna in Ferma—excellent meal! The south coast is quite urbanized and has much less charm than the east coast we’ve just left! The numerous plastic greenhouses are partly to blame. We stop for groceries in Ierapetra. Around 3 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the small perched village of Anatoli. Our lodging is at the top of the village, and from the path leading to it, we have a magnificent view of the coastal plain, unfortunately overloaded with plastic greenhouses. It reminds us of the landscapes of El Ejido in Andalusia.
View of the Ierapetra coast from AnatoliFriday, 20/09: A walk and discovery of the hamlet of Anatoli. There are few services—a tiny grocery store, a taverna, and that’s it. Fortunately, the traveling baker arrives and honks. We take the opportunity to buy fresh bread. Leaving the village, we take a path that should lead us to the hamlet of Drygies. The landscape is beautiful. We walk through a lovely pine forest before arriving at the hamlet. The path continues to a taverna that’s closed today, with a superb terrace overlooking the coast. Luckily, the owner arrives and informs us that the taverna will be open next Sunday and that we can enjoy barbecued meat. Noted! We head back to Anatoli via the small paved road with, fortunately, very limited traffic. Lunch on our terrace, then a dip in our private pool! The water is noticeably cooler than at the beach. Dinner at the village taverna: there’s only one menu—meze starters, souvlaki, water, wine, and bread—all for 35 €! We think we’re dreaming—was there a mistake? No.
Saturday, 21/09: We discover the beach of the village of Myrtos, a small seaside resort that’s quite touristy but on a human scale. We swim in the western part of the beach, and once again, we’re alone in the water. The best part: warm water and tamarisk trees for welcome shade. There’s even a shower to rinse off! In the late afternoon, Pat and I decide to go for a hike in the Selakano pine forest. To get there, we take a narrow, winding, and poorly paved road after the village of Christos. Plus, at this altitude, we encounter clouds clinging to the mountain, so it’s drizzling, and visibility is reduced. We decide to turn back and return to Anatoli. As compensation, we take the path that passes in front of the lodging and leads us to the Timios Stavros chapel, which crowns the summit of the nearby mountain. We arrive at the summit just in time for the sunset at 7 p.m. Breathtaking 360° panorama and magnificent colors!
Sunset from AnatoliSunday, 22/09: This morning, Pat, Mimi, and I go for a hike in the Sarakina Gorge, located about 12 km from Anatoli via a beautiful road winding through irrigated olive groves. We park in the small parking lot before the trail. At the start, the path follows a levada (small irrigation canal) and quickly enters a very narrow gorge flanked by high cliffs. The riverbed is cluttered with huge rocks blocking the passage. No matter—in the technical sections, ropes or ladders allow us to overcome these obstacles with a bit of skill. You can imagine how quickly the riverbed must rise during a storm, given the narrowness of the gorge!
We progress slowly through this magnificent and impressive rocky chaos. At the exit of the gorge, we take another return path that partly follows the paved road. Back in Anatoli, we go to lunch at the Drygies taverna. We sit at the edge of the terrace under a huge tree that covers almost the entire terrace and order grilled lamb dishes prepared according to the ancient “antikristo” method.
Monday, 23/09: Departure for our last stop before Heraklion. We thought about swimming at Tertsa Beach, but it turns out to be less pleasant than expected, with pebbles and an uneven rocky plateau. So, we return to Myrtos Beach, which we know well and suits us perfectly. We head west, leaving the coast a bit. Around 3:30 p.m., we arrive at our destination in the village of Kamilari, near the famous Matala spot. We’ve rented a beautiful, modern, well-equipped apartment with a lovely shaded terrace. The owner is very friendly and explains everything necessary for a good stay. We explore the quite touristy village with its few tavernas, all full of tourists, mostly Germans.
Tuesday, 24/09: Visit to the village of Sivas, well restored thanks to the Germans, who have invested a lot here. We take the opportunity to scout out “friendly” tavernas, then go for a swim at Kalamaki Beach. Apart from a small sandy access, you have to enter the water via a chaotic limestone plateau—proof of this is that Monique trips slightly when entering the water. A group of very unfriendly German women blocks the sandy passage and doesn’t hesitate to push swimmers they deem too close. Back home, lunch, and a nap. In the late afternoon, we drive to visit the nearby Phaistos site. We benefit from very beautiful lighting. From the elevated site, we overlook the Messara Plain with a beautiful view of the olive grove checkerboards highlighted by the late afternoon sun. The site itself is quite vast, but to appreciate it, it’s better to read the explanatory panels placed throughout the different quarters. At this hour, the site is almost empty, and the beautiful light adds charm to the visit.
Wednesday, 25/09: Departure for the village of Matala, which doesn’t interest us in itself, having been there during the “hippie” era in 1976. However, going to Red Beach, only accessible by taking a path overlooking this area, appeals to us much more. We park in the large parking lot just outside the village and start our climb, which brings us to a pass from where we can admire this beautiful red-sand beach framed by beautiful cliffs plunging into the sea. The weather is magnificent, and at this early hour, there aren’t many people yet. We swim in the free part located near the cliff on the right when arriving at the beach. The sea is like glass, warm, and without a single ripple—a real treat! After half an hour, we turn back, and now there are many people rushing on this path, not at all made for feet in sandals or flip-flops, yet many vacationers venture out like this! Matala lives up to its image—a trendy place, full of shops, bars, and restaurants. You could be in any seaside resort with a standard global urbanism, lacking particular charm. Back home. In the late afternoon, a walk through the olive groves surrounding Kamilari, then dinner at Evangelina’s, who runs the Minoan Parassies taverna in the middle of the olive groves. Evangelina is quite a character: we came to reserve a table for 8 p.m. when it was only 7 p.m., but since we lingered near her restaurant, she prepares a table for us and urges us to sit down! And there she takes our order, and a little later, the meze arrive, followed by the main dishes. We finish this good dinner with several generous glasses of raki, accompanied by Evangelina’s encouragements, repeating “poya poya bravo bravo” in a loop. We’re in great shape too, by the way! We return in the middle of the night, on foot, fortunately, with the path vaguely lit by our phones...
Thursday, 26/09: This morning, we discover a new beach, Kommos Beach, not far from Kamilari either. It’s a long sandy beach, a small part of which is dedicated to paid umbrellas and sunbeds, and the rest is free. We spot a tamarisk tree to take shelter from the still-hot sun, and once again, we enjoy clear, warm water. The few swimmers spread out easily over nearly 500 meters of beach. In the late afternoon, Pat and I go to admire the sunset from the hill near our lodging. The hill, covered with olive trees, is threatened by a planned housing development of large cubic villas—trends dictate. Concrete never stops...
Friday, 27/09: We thought about leaving the car at the Odiyitria Monastery, the end of the paved road, but since the track descending to the cave remains drivable, we park 3 km further at the junction of the track leading to Kali Limenes Beach. We still have to walk for half an hour on a less drivable track, and then we’re at the entrance of the Farango Gorge. It’s a beautiful, easy hike since we follow the dry pebble riverbed. Before arriving at the beach, there’s a very beautiful small chapel sheltered under a large cliff, beautifully lit at this early hour.
Agio Farango Chapel
A few climbers are scaling the cliff, and about ten swimmers are enjoying the sea. Return to the car under the hot sun. In the late afternoon, we all return to visit the interesting Odiyitria Monastery. Last swim at Kommos Beach and an excellent dinner at the Sigelakis taverna in Sivas.
Saturday, 28/09: There’s an end-of-vacation atmosphere... We pack our bags and head north. A short stop to see the village of Vorri, and a little over an hour later, we arrive in the big city of Heraklion. Since it’s too early to check into the apartment, we park in the city center to visit the famous archaeological museum. It’s indeed a must-see highlight of our stay in Crete. All four of us are amazed by the quantity and quality of the objects presented from the Minoan civilization. After more than 2 hours, we come out without having seen everything, but we’re a bit overwhelmed by all these wonders. Lunch at a nice little taverna very close to the Titus Church. We go to take possession of our apartment—the same as on the way there, still just as satisfying. In the late afternoon, I go alone for a walk in the historic district of the city, passing by the Morosini Fountain, which is bustling with people—some seated at café terraces, others standing and chatting. There’s a lively atmosphere here. A little further on are the Venetian loggia and the Agios Titos Church. I walk down to the old Venetian port to stroll along the jetty and admire the fortifications under beautiful late-afternoon lighting, then return to the apartment. Dinner near our place at Kiriakis, a “chic” restaurant but with very reasonable prices and excellent cuisine.
Sunday, 29/09: Wake-up at 3:30 a.m., quick coffee, and drive to the nearby airport. We leave the car in the parking lot. Already a lot of people at this early hour. Since we don’t have checked luggage, we go straight to security, which goes fairly quickly, then it’s waiting time and takeoff on time in an Airbus A321 for a 45-minute flight to Athens. We take off again in another Airbus A321 with a 50-minute delay to arrive in Zurich at 11:10 a.m. local time. Then we have to take the train to Basel and then the one to Colmar. With fewer Sunday services, we won’t arrive in Colmar until around 4 p.m.
Conclusion All four of us returned very satisfied with this stay in Crete for several reasons: - We found superb beaches with clear, warm water and often very few vacationers. - The few hikes we did were magnificent, especially those where the trails went through gorges leading to deserted beaches. - We greatly appreciated Cretan gastronomy—there were so few disappointments that we can count them on one hand. - All the accommodations we booked turned out to be superb, with the icing on the cake being the very friendly welcome from our hosts. - Generally, contacts with Cretans were always very warm despite the language barrier—we speak a little Greek. - We also appreciated the diversity of landscapes in this eastern part of Crete, with plateaus and mountains with splendid rugged reliefs.
Note: The photo album is available by clicking on this link: https://photos.app.goo.gl/hfdjQndA5eXkL5k7 Captions are only visible per photo by clicking on the circled “i” in the top right. Budget: approximately 3,300 € per couple for 21 days, including train and flights Budget details per couple: - Flight Zurich-Heraklion: 440 € - Trains Colmar-Basel-Zurich round trip for 4: 442.40 € (221 € per couple) - Accommodation: 2,431 € / 21 = 115.80 € per night for 4 (1,216 € per couple) - Car rental for 21 days: 684 € + 145 € fuel (1,150 km) (414 € per couple) - Restaurants, food, etc.: 1,009 €
VoyageForum Members' 2025 Cruise Departure Calendar
hi everyone
I’ll go ahead and restart the cruise calendar for 2025 for now.
It can give people ideas and might help members meet up!
Two essential rules: don’t “quote” the calendar when replying—this’ll avoid any confusion and if you can, list your cruise in this example format: enter the month first, then date /username / SHIP / number of days / destination / departure port
FEBRUARY
14/02- poupou10 / CELEBRITY INFINITY /11 days / Greece Turkey Cyprus / Piraeus (Athens) AUGUST 01/08- poupou10 / REGAL PRINCESS /13 days / British Isles / Southampton YOUR TURN 😉 NUMBER OF CRUISES 2025: 2 JANUARY FEBRUARY 14/02- poupou10 / CELEBRITY INFINITY /11 days / Greece Turkey Cyprus / Piraeus (Athens) MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST 01/08- poupou10 / REGAL PRINCESS /13 days / British Isles / Southampton SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER
Two essential rules: don’t “quote” the calendar when replying—this’ll avoid any confusion and if you can, list your cruise in this example format: enter the month first, then date /username / SHIP / number of days / destination / departure port
FEBRUARY
14/02- poupou10 / CELEBRITY INFINITY /11 days / Greece Turkey Cyprus / Piraeus (Athens) AUGUST 01/08- poupou10 / REGAL PRINCESS /13 days / British Isles / Southampton YOUR TURN 😉 NUMBER OF CRUISES 2025: 2 JANUARY FEBRUARY 14/02- poupou10 / CELEBRITY INFINITY /11 days / Greece Turkey Cyprus / Piraeus (Athens) MARCH APRIL MAY JUNE JULY AUGUST 01/08- poupou10 / REGAL PRINCESS /13 days / British Isles / Southampton SEPTEMBER OCTOBER NOVEMBER DECEMBER
15-day Thailand itinerary with kids aged 7 and 9
hi everyone,
we’re heading to Thailand for 15 days at the end of February/beginning of March.
We haven’t booked our flight tickets yet, but we will soon... we’ve scoured quite a few sites to figure out where to start, but it’s still not clear.
We like to alternate between relaxation on beautiful beaches and sightseeing.
We’re thinking of landing in Bangkok and staying there for 2 or 3 days. Then, we’d spend a day visiting Ayutthaya. I’m skipping Chiang Mai on purpose—it’s too far north. After that, we’d head south (by plane?).
We love snorkeling, canoeing, kayaking, or any water sports. We won’t have any means of transportation—no car rental, or at most, a bike! We’ve looked at Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Tao... and I’m already getting lost with all the options...
The kids might enjoy seeing elephants, but only if it’s done in a way that respects animal welfare.
That’s why I was thinking we could fly back from Bangkok instead of another city.
There are a lot of questions, but the biggest one is figuring out the route.
Thanks so much for your help!
we’re heading to Thailand for 15 days at the end of February/beginning of March.
We haven’t booked our flight tickets yet, but we will soon... we’ve scoured quite a few sites to figure out where to start, but it’s still not clear.
We like to alternate between relaxation on beautiful beaches and sightseeing.
We’re thinking of landing in Bangkok and staying there for 2 or 3 days. Then, we’d spend a day visiting Ayutthaya. I’m skipping Chiang Mai on purpose—it’s too far north. After that, we’d head south (by plane?).
We love snorkeling, canoeing, kayaking, or any water sports. We won’t have any means of transportation—no car rental, or at most, a bike! We’ve looked at Koh Lanta, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Tao... and I’m already getting lost with all the options...
The kids might enjoy seeing elephants, but only if it’s done in a way that respects animal welfare.
That’s why I was thinking we could fly back from Bangkok instead of another city.
There are a lot of questions, but the biggest one is figuring out the route.
Thanks so much for your help!
Art Nouveau Around the World - Discussion
This is where we chat, not on the contest thread
Where to go in Spain based on our criteria?
Hello fellow travelers!
My husband and I would like to spend a few weeks in Jan-Feb-Mar 2025 in Spain.☺️
Our main criteria: shopping, hiking, long walks along the sea, climate 15-24°C, easy transport, languages (French, English, or Spanish), 🥂🏌️♀️🚴🎾☀️🎼🏝️
We’ve already been to Marbella and Alicante.
However, we don’t know these places apart from suggestions from friends who’ve visited them. 🤔
We’re thinking of renting an apartment or condo near the sea and maybe a car from time to time!
We’ve visited Spain a lot and really enjoy it given the distance and climate for these months away from the cold! 😊
Looking forward to your suggestions and tips! Thanks so much! 🤗
Oh, and we’re seniors but in great shape! 💃🕺😉
Two weeks in the Comoros – my feedback
Some impressions and info after two weeks in Grande Comore and Anjouan. Trip mid-2024.
First and foremost, the Comorians are absolutely lovely. I don’t usually like generalizing, but I honestly don’t know what else to say beyond what struck me most: kindness everywhere, great friendliness, curiosity—basically, every interaction was super pleasant, whether at the hotel, in the street, or in shops.
On the less positive side (because it needs to be mentioned), I was also struck by the overwhelming amount of waste along the coastline (and elsewhere, especially roadsides and riverbanks) in pretty shocking quantities. Of course, it improves once you get away from populated areas, but it was still a bit of a shock.
That said, underwater—even at sites where the shore was littered with plastic—the corals are stunning, snorkeling is fantastic, the seabeds are truly beautiful, and there’s a great diversity of fish.
The islands and landscapes are gorgeous, especially Anjouan’s interior and highlands. I can’t say much about Mohéli since I didn’t go, but I only heard glowing reviews.
In Moroni and Mutsamudu, the medinas are really charming, far from the tourist crowds of Stone Town, for example. Winding alleys, old buildings, stairs, and twists and turns—I spent hours just wandering and getting lost. Really nice.
In Moroni, I stayed at the Retaj. It was good, with great service, an evening buffet, and a pretty extensive menu. There’s a beautiful ocean view and a small volcanic beach at the end of the grounds. I snorkeled there, and it’s lovely (though, being close to the city, there were bags and wrappers on the rocks). Around 100 € per night if I remember correctly—not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either (prices in the Comoros are generally quite high). I also stayed at the Jardin de la Paix, closer to the city center. Also very good. The rooms were spotless. Fewer meal options, mostly chalkboard specials, and sometimes very long waits. On the plus side, there’s a large tree-filled inner courtyard, but no ocean view or small beach. From memory, it was cheaper, but I’m not 100% sure.
Among the few travelers and tourists, many were heading to Itsandra Beach Hotel at the entrance to the city when coming from the airport. It’s in a much higher price range. I only went there for the hotel’s beach, Petite Itsandra, because the snorkeling is amazing.
In Anjouan, I only stayed at the Hôtel des Îles in Mutsamudu. The owner is very welcoming and super nice. There’s a lovely terrace with an ocean view, where you can watch the boats coming and going in the morning and evening. Peaceful and really pretty. You can also see the huge fruit bats up close since some like to hang out in the tree across from the terrace. It’s easy to walk to the medina, the coast, or even the market and port—everything’s close by.
For meals, I mostly ate at hotels, but also tried some evening street food stands. In hotels or restaurants, expect to pay around 10 to 15 €. Oh, and one thing: in the evenings when the fishermen return to Moroni, there’s *tons* of tuna. So it’s on the menu pretty much everywhere. But either because of the type of tuna or the preparation, the tuna steaks are dry and honestly not great. Nowhere I tried was an exception. The only non-hotel restaurant I remember is New Select, in the courtyard out back where you could order skewers of different kinds while religious chants played in a relaxed but respectful atmosphere. You could also order a shisha. Really nice and not too expensive.
As for activities, like I said, I mostly walked around the cities—markets, medinas, ports, and the seafront. Chatted with people I met along the way. Did some snorkeling, especially at Itsandra Beach Hotel, but didn’t get the chance to go to Itsandra Beach (which is public). Did a bit of hiking in the countryside, especially in Anjouan—just wandering random paths, so I can’t really give much detail on that.
I can’t say anything about climbing Mount Karthala, the Prophet’s Hole, etc. I would’ve liked to spend some time in Domoni (Anjouan), but didn’t get the chance.
A few roads have been recently redone and are in great condition, but a lot are still in really bad shape, which makes travel times longer. The inland roads often offer stunning views of dramatic landscapes with the ocean and sometimes lagoons in the background.
To get from one island to another, you can take a plane or a boat. Local airlines aren’t very reassuring—technical issues are common. It’s also possible to arrange flights with Precision Air (from Tanzania). From experience, it’s better. I didn’t take the boat, but I’m considering it for next time.
In short, these are islands to discover where tourism is still in its early stages. Great encounters and a beautiful experience
First and foremost, the Comorians are absolutely lovely. I don’t usually like generalizing, but I honestly don’t know what else to say beyond what struck me most: kindness everywhere, great friendliness, curiosity—basically, every interaction was super pleasant, whether at the hotel, in the street, or in shops.
On the less positive side (because it needs to be mentioned), I was also struck by the overwhelming amount of waste along the coastline (and elsewhere, especially roadsides and riverbanks) in pretty shocking quantities. Of course, it improves once you get away from populated areas, but it was still a bit of a shock.
That said, underwater—even at sites where the shore was littered with plastic—the corals are stunning, snorkeling is fantastic, the seabeds are truly beautiful, and there’s a great diversity of fish.
The islands and landscapes are gorgeous, especially Anjouan’s interior and highlands. I can’t say much about Mohéli since I didn’t go, but I only heard glowing reviews.
In Moroni and Mutsamudu, the medinas are really charming, far from the tourist crowds of Stone Town, for example. Winding alleys, old buildings, stairs, and twists and turns—I spent hours just wandering and getting lost. Really nice.
In Moroni, I stayed at the Retaj. It was good, with great service, an evening buffet, and a pretty extensive menu. There’s a beautiful ocean view and a small volcanic beach at the end of the grounds. I snorkeled there, and it’s lovely (though, being close to the city, there were bags and wrappers on the rocks). Around 100 € per night if I remember correctly—not the cheapest, but not the most expensive either (prices in the Comoros are generally quite high). I also stayed at the Jardin de la Paix, closer to the city center. Also very good. The rooms were spotless. Fewer meal options, mostly chalkboard specials, and sometimes very long waits. On the plus side, there’s a large tree-filled inner courtyard, but no ocean view or small beach. From memory, it was cheaper, but I’m not 100% sure.
Among the few travelers and tourists, many were heading to Itsandra Beach Hotel at the entrance to the city when coming from the airport. It’s in a much higher price range. I only went there for the hotel’s beach, Petite Itsandra, because the snorkeling is amazing.
In Anjouan, I only stayed at the Hôtel des Îles in Mutsamudu. The owner is very welcoming and super nice. There’s a lovely terrace with an ocean view, where you can watch the boats coming and going in the morning and evening. Peaceful and really pretty. You can also see the huge fruit bats up close since some like to hang out in the tree across from the terrace. It’s easy to walk to the medina, the coast, or even the market and port—everything’s close by.
For meals, I mostly ate at hotels, but also tried some evening street food stands. In hotels or restaurants, expect to pay around 10 to 15 €. Oh, and one thing: in the evenings when the fishermen return to Moroni, there’s *tons* of tuna. So it’s on the menu pretty much everywhere. But either because of the type of tuna or the preparation, the tuna steaks are dry and honestly not great. Nowhere I tried was an exception. The only non-hotel restaurant I remember is New Select, in the courtyard out back where you could order skewers of different kinds while religious chants played in a relaxed but respectful atmosphere. You could also order a shisha. Really nice and not too expensive.
As for activities, like I said, I mostly walked around the cities—markets, medinas, ports, and the seafront. Chatted with people I met along the way. Did some snorkeling, especially at Itsandra Beach Hotel, but didn’t get the chance to go to Itsandra Beach (which is public). Did a bit of hiking in the countryside, especially in Anjouan—just wandering random paths, so I can’t really give much detail on that.
I can’t say anything about climbing Mount Karthala, the Prophet’s Hole, etc. I would’ve liked to spend some time in Domoni (Anjouan), but didn’t get the chance.
A few roads have been recently redone and are in great condition, but a lot are still in really bad shape, which makes travel times longer. The inland roads often offer stunning views of dramatic landscapes with the ocean and sometimes lagoons in the background.
To get from one island to another, you can take a plane or a boat. Local airlines aren’t very reassuring—technical issues are common. It’s also possible to arrange flights with Precision Air (from Tanzania). From experience, it’s better. I didn’t take the boat, but I’m considering it for next time.
In short, these are islands to discover where tourism is still in its early stages. Great encounters and a beautiful experience
Ethiopia and Two Endemic Animals
The reopening of the forum is great news—let's keep it going! I’m going to share a little story about this 12-day trip, which was my second-to-last journey and my most recent one in Africa for now.
I went to this country for one very specific reason: to see two endemic animal species. A little suspense… you’ll find out what they are soon if you don’t already know!
The country is poor, very poor even. And it hits you even harder when you arrive in the capital: a massive open-air construction site that gives an impression of prosperity. A lot of roads were built by the Chinese, but to be honest, they’re far from perfect… and I mean *far*!
When it comes to restaurants, it’s pretty much the same story. Most offer endless menus, but in reality, there aren’t many choices. Once, I was flat-out told: “No rice today!” Ordering a dish? It’s a real gamble! The food is *very* spicy—I’m warning you, it’s intense! There’s chili in almost everything, so it’s best to ask beforehand if you don’t want your mouth on fire. Actually, this was the first time I didn’t like the food in a country I visited. Had to happen eventually, right?
Their national dish? Injera. A large flatbread topped with sauces, vegetables, and meat. The taste is really unique—some love it, others… not so much.
I went to this country for one very specific reason: to see two endemic animal species. A little suspense… you’ll find out what they are soon if you don’t already know!
The country is poor, very poor even. And it hits you even harder when you arrive in the capital: a massive open-air construction site that gives an impression of prosperity. A lot of roads were built by the Chinese, but to be honest, they’re far from perfect… and I mean *far*!
When it comes to restaurants, it’s pretty much the same story. Most offer endless menus, but in reality, there aren’t many choices. Once, I was flat-out told: “No rice today!” Ordering a dish? It’s a real gamble! The food is *very* spicy—I’m warning you, it’s intense! There’s chili in almost everything, so it’s best to ask beforehand if you don’t want your mouth on fire. Actually, this was the first time I didn’t like the food in a country I visited. Had to happen eventually, right?
Their national dish? Injera. A large flatbread topped with sauces, vegetables, and meat. The taste is really unique—some love it, others… not so much.
Jerusalem, the Earthly
5 AM, I’m shivering.
The icy February 2022 fog wraps around the deserted Terminal 2, closed for renovations, on the outskirts of which my hotel stands. I wait alone at the stop in the pitch-black night for the first shuttle of the day, which is supposed to take me to T1. I have no idea where I’m going. All I know is the name: Jerusalem. I’m entirely goy, just as entirely atheist, but I’ve been visiting that imaginary city for decades. It haunts, fantastical, the medieval images that once occupied me for so long. It regularly creeps into my ears through the misfortune of news reports from radios around the world. It crystallizes so many of humanity’s delusions, of which I’m a part. I know nothing about it, haven’t read a single guidebook. But I want to see it, walk its streets, live it for a few days. Make it real, tangible.
The flight is on time. This is the era of mandatory FFP2 masks on all flights landing in Italy (Europe?). The crew valiantly fights against passengers’ ingenious attempts to remove them: sipping their drinks milliliter by milliliter, nibbling their snacks cubic millimeter by cubic millimeter, feigning breathing difficulties, yanking off the elastic bands... A rabbi passes through the rows collecting donations. Men put on their tefillin, drape their prayer shawls, and rock to the rhythm of their prayers. Already, the sense of elsewhere.
Ben Gurion Airport is a stunning airport—monumental, bright, functional, adorned with archaeological remnants and enormous photographs showcasing the country’s great leader in its works. I collect my visa from a kiosk, quickly endure the routine interrogation from a military officer slumped in his seat, withdraw some shekels from an ATM, get my nostrils swabbed at one of the many molecular testing stations in exchange for a yellow all-inclusive resort-style wristband that grants me passage through the outer doors. I spend ages (I think I’m just not good at this) in the crowd trying to find a sherut heading to Jerusalem, then lose myself in the landscape. Mediterranean-style—red earth, stunted vegetation, overrun with sprawling construction. I do glute exercises in this traffic, where a Neapolitan driver would embody road indolence. Endless traffic jams signal the city’s approach. The sherut drops me a few steps from my hotel, the Saint George’s Cathedral Pilgrim Guest House, right on the edge of the dotted lines on maps marking the divide between Jewish and Arab Jerusalem. It’s a pleasant complex with an inner garden and beautiful rooms featuring exposed stone vaults—and thank goodness, because I’m not allowed to leave until I get my test results. The reception staff, incredibly helpful, guide me through the myriad of meal delivery options. A roof over my head, a full stomach—all that’s left is to wait. Read Caillois, check the increasingly precise, increasingly ominous rumors of war brewing, yet again, in Europe, and navigate the city’s virtual map to get a sense of where to head once freed.
The next day, it’s done, and my first destination is, quite naturally, the Old City. The first gate I come across is Jaffa Gate, so Jaffa Gate it is—leading from the chaos of vehicles of all kinds into the labyrinth of alleys packed with goods of all kinds.
The flight is on time. This is the era of mandatory FFP2 masks on all flights landing in Italy (Europe?). The crew valiantly fights against passengers’ ingenious attempts to remove them: sipping their drinks milliliter by milliliter, nibbling their snacks cubic millimeter by cubic millimeter, feigning breathing difficulties, yanking off the elastic bands... A rabbi passes through the rows collecting donations. Men put on their tefillin, drape their prayer shawls, and rock to the rhythm of their prayers. Already, the sense of elsewhere.
Ben Gurion Airport is a stunning airport—monumental, bright, functional, adorned with archaeological remnants and enormous photographs showcasing the country’s great leader in its works. I collect my visa from a kiosk, quickly endure the routine interrogation from a military officer slumped in his seat, withdraw some shekels from an ATM, get my nostrils swabbed at one of the many molecular testing stations in exchange for a yellow all-inclusive resort-style wristband that grants me passage through the outer doors. I spend ages (I think I’m just not good at this) in the crowd trying to find a sherut heading to Jerusalem, then lose myself in the landscape. Mediterranean-style—red earth, stunted vegetation, overrun with sprawling construction. I do glute exercises in this traffic, where a Neapolitan driver would embody road indolence. Endless traffic jams signal the city’s approach. The sherut drops me a few steps from my hotel, the Saint George’s Cathedral Pilgrim Guest House, right on the edge of the dotted lines on maps marking the divide between Jewish and Arab Jerusalem. It’s a pleasant complex with an inner garden and beautiful rooms featuring exposed stone vaults—and thank goodness, because I’m not allowed to leave until I get my test results. The reception staff, incredibly helpful, guide me through the myriad of meal delivery options. A roof over my head, a full stomach—all that’s left is to wait. Read Caillois, check the increasingly precise, increasingly ominous rumors of war brewing, yet again, in Europe, and navigate the city’s virtual map to get a sense of where to head once freed.
The next day, it’s done, and my first destination is, quite naturally, the Old City. The first gate I come across is Jaffa Gate, so Jaffa Gate it is—leading from the chaos of vehicles of all kinds into the labyrinth of alleys packed with goods of all kinds.
French company CFC
Hi
Has anyone sailed with the French company CFC? What do you think?
Haven’t seen many reviews about this company.
Your motorhome experiences in Corsica
Thanks for sharing your experiences and tips for a trip to Corsica in May-June 2025.
Best regards,
The Island of Pelops
October 7, 2023, is a sunny day in Milan. Since morning, in this light, I’m WhatsApping with Afrooz in Tehran, and I decide to call her. A lively, joyful conversation—French with that Farsi accent becomes a wonderful language. Suddenly, everything feels possible. Isfahan, Shiraz, Damavand, Yazd, Yazd, Yazd—a delicious word savored endlessly—become within reach. Iran, so longed for, is finally here. Pure joy, absolute enthusiasm. Six months to plan and relish a trip before living it.
Then I open *Le Monde*.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Frozen. Empty. No. We decide to wait, not to give up right away, pretending to believe—just a little, just to keep from collapsing—that with this wretched human race, the worst isn’t necessarily certain. It is.
So... meh, Madeira? The Azores? Uzbekistan (a pale substitute)? New Zealand? Greece. Again, always. Nestling into the only European promise we’ve been given. Indulging in illusions, for the pleasure of it.
So, train from Milan to Ancona (9 AM–12 PM), a typically Marchigiano lunch (Italy is paradise for food lovers), a stroll through the city, then at 4 PM boarding the *Olympic Champion*. Arrival in Patras the next afternoon, car rental, and off to Lepanto—Nafpaktos today—to reminisce about glorious victories and pay tribute to Cervantes, who lost a hand there before writing.
That’s the plan, anyway. The train is unusually on time. The ferry, replaced in the meantime by the *Hellenic Spirit* (why not? Even if it’s less suited to the season), is 3 hours late, then 4, no 5, then finally 6—oh wait, 7. And on top of that, it’s pouring rain in Ancona, and the port waiting room closes at 6 PM. Great...
At 11 PM, the ferry’s lights emerge in the pitch-black night. We jostle through the downpour, board, and sleep well in a cozy cabin with the white noise of the engines. Then:
23 hours of rest. Of forgetting.
Then I open *Le Monde*.
Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Frozen. Empty. No. We decide to wait, not to give up right away, pretending to believe—just a little, just to keep from collapsing—that with this wretched human race, the worst isn’t necessarily certain. It is.
So... meh, Madeira? The Azores? Uzbekistan (a pale substitute)? New Zealand? Greece. Again, always. Nestling into the only European promise we’ve been given. Indulging in illusions, for the pleasure of it.
So, train from Milan to Ancona (9 AM–12 PM), a typically Marchigiano lunch (Italy is paradise for food lovers), a stroll through the city, then at 4 PM boarding the *Olympic Champion*. Arrival in Patras the next afternoon, car rental, and off to Lepanto—Nafpaktos today—to reminisce about glorious victories and pay tribute to Cervantes, who lost a hand there before writing.
That’s the plan, anyway. The train is unusually on time. The ferry, replaced in the meantime by the *Hellenic Spirit* (why not? Even if it’s less suited to the season), is 3 hours late, then 4, no 5, then finally 6—oh wait, 7. And on top of that, it’s pouring rain in Ancona, and the port waiting room closes at 6 PM. Great...
At 11 PM, the ferry’s lights emerge in the pitch-black night. We jostle through the downpour, board, and sleep well in a cozy cabin with the white noise of the engines. Then:
23 hours of rest. Of forgetting.
Two weeks in Uganda, solo and using public transport
Hi everyone,
I’m taking advantage of the forum’s long-awaited reopening to dive back into my memories and start my first travel journal, destination Uganda!
Why Uganda?
Choosing this destination was almost by chance. I’d already traveled to East Africa two years earlier, to Kenya, and loved the experience. Of course, I wanted to return to the region and see that abundant wildlife I’d enjoyed so much. But Uganda wasn’t really on my radar... While looking for a destination for a two-week trip in May 2023, I came across cheap flights (~400 €) with Kenya Airways to Entebbe. Why not, I thought? I started looking into the country.
How did the trip go?
Most travelers whose posts I read had organized their trip with an agency and/or rented a vehicle, with or without a driver. That’s not at all how I like to explore a country... and besides, I don’t have a license ! Digging a little deeper, I saw that it seemed possible to reach the main sights using local transport, as long as I was ready to put up with the discomfort of the journeys. Challenge accepted! On the other hand, the budget accommodations near the parks that I’d managed to find in Kenya seemed much less common here. The trip was shaping up to be expensive, especially since the highlight—gorilla trekking—requires a permit costing several hundred dollars. Yikes, sticking to a reasonable budget was going to be tricky... In the end, I found a solution. Almost all lodges offer the option to pitch a tent on their grounds for a modest price (between $10 and $20 per night). That would let me enjoy the safaris while keeping this trip "relatively" affordable.
My itinerary
After studying the Lonely Planet East Africa guide, various travel journals and blogs, and the excellent site Safari Bookings, I finally settled on an itinerary (not counting the travel days):
Entebbe – 1 day Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary – 1 day Murchison Falls National Park – 2 days Crater Lakes – 1 day Queen Elizabeth National Park – 2 days Bwindi – 3 days Lake Bunyonyi – 1 day Kampala – 1 day
See you soon for the first stop in Entebbe!
Why Uganda?
Choosing this destination was almost by chance. I’d already traveled to East Africa two years earlier, to Kenya, and loved the experience. Of course, I wanted to return to the region and see that abundant wildlife I’d enjoyed so much. But Uganda wasn’t really on my radar... While looking for a destination for a two-week trip in May 2023, I came across cheap flights (~400 €) with Kenya Airways to Entebbe. Why not, I thought? I started looking into the country.
How did the trip go?
Most travelers whose posts I read had organized their trip with an agency and/or rented a vehicle, with or without a driver. That’s not at all how I like to explore a country... and besides, I don’t have a license ! Digging a little deeper, I saw that it seemed possible to reach the main sights using local transport, as long as I was ready to put up with the discomfort of the journeys. Challenge accepted! On the other hand, the budget accommodations near the parks that I’d managed to find in Kenya seemed much less common here. The trip was shaping up to be expensive, especially since the highlight—gorilla trekking—requires a permit costing several hundred dollars. Yikes, sticking to a reasonable budget was going to be tricky... In the end, I found a solution. Almost all lodges offer the option to pitch a tent on their grounds for a modest price (between $10 and $20 per night). That would let me enjoy the safaris while keeping this trip "relatively" affordable.
My itinerary
After studying the Lonely Planet East Africa guide, various travel journals and blogs, and the excellent site Safari Bookings, I finally settled on an itinerary (not counting the travel days):
Entebbe – 1 day Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary – 1 day Murchison Falls National Park – 2 days Crater Lakes – 1 day Queen Elizabeth National Park – 2 days Bwindi – 3 days Lake Bunyonyi – 1 day Kampala – 1 day
See you soon for the first stop in Entebbe!
Désir de voyages English translation pending
Bonjour
Je pense que ce qui fonde le voyage relève du désir. Le désir qui préside à tout. Cependant, tous les désirs n'ont pas vocation à être réalisés, voire même, mieux vaut que certains ne s'accomplissent pas. Qu'en dîtes vous ?
Je pense que ce qui fonde le voyage relève du désir. Le désir qui préside à tout. Cependant, tous les désirs n'ont pas vocation à être réalisés, voire même, mieux vaut que certains ne s'accomplissent pas. Qu'en dîtes vous ?
Louer une voiture ou pas pour faire ce trajet au Brésil English translation pending
Bonjour,
Je regarde à aller au Brésil et on voudrait faire Rio-Salvador-Recife en voiture avec des arrêts entre ces villes.
Louer une voiture au Brésil vaut t'il le coup pour faire ce trajet ? Le prix du carburant est bon marché ? Conduire au Brésil est comme ici ou dangereux ?
Merci
Merci
Voyage original en France pour anniversaire English translation pending
bonjour à vous
je ne sais plus vers où me tourner!
pour un voyage cadeau anniversaire (60 ans de mon conjoint) je voulais lui faire la surprise d'un circuit Royal Enfield au Népal (son rêve) pour l'an prochain
hélas en ce moment tout est bien compliqué et le cadeau est prévu pour cet octobre!
je cherche donc autre chose en France
les Royal Enfield ça ne court pas les rues?
un circuit en van ? mais il faudrait le van très vintage
donc je ne sais plus où m'adresser
merci pour votre aide
Réhabilitation du patrimoine de Bandiagara au Mali English translation pending
Un effort conjoint
Le 11 août 2020, l’Organisation des Nations Unies pour l’Education la Science et la Culture (UNESCO) a annoncé le lancement d’un projet de réhabilitation du patrimoine culturel et architectural de Bandiagara, ville historique, considérée comme la capitale du « Pays Dogon », et en partie détruite par le conflit qui fait rage dans le centre du Mali.
L’organisation onusienne précise dans un communiqué publié sur son site qu’elle « soutiendra la cohésion sociale et la résilience des communautés souffrant d’années de conflit armé dans le centre du Mali ». Elle souligne, en outre que ce soutien se fera « dans le cadre d’un nouveau projet majeur, rendu possible grâce à un financement d’un million de dollars US de l'Alliance internationale pour la protection du patrimoine dans les zones de conflit (ALIPH) ». Le projet apportera un soutien essentiel à la réhabilitation du bien du patrimoine mondial « Falaise de Bandiagara (Pays des Dogons) », qui abrite 289 villages répartis sur 400 000 hectares dans la région de Mopti. « La culture n’est pas seulement trop souvent victime de conflits armés prolongés, elle est aussi une source essentielle de résilience et un fondement important pour la construction de la paix » a déclaré la Directrice générale de l’UNESCO, Audrey Azoulay, citée dans le communiqué.
A travers ce nouveau projet, en collaboration avec les autorités maliennes, et financé par l’ALIPH, nous visons à placer la culture au cœur des efforts pour soutenir les communautés qui font de cette région leur foyer, a ajouté la même source. Ce projet de trois ans à Bandiagara vise à réhabiliter le patrimoine architectural endommagé, notamment les logements, les greniers et les sites consacrés à la culture traditionnelle, ainsi qu’à rétablir la production d’objets culturels et la sauvegarde des objets de cérémonies dans une collection commémorative, précise encore l'UNESCO. De par la réhabilitation et la sauvegarde des pratiques culturelles de la région (rites funéraires, danses masquées, …), le projet contribuera à renforcer le tissu social et la paix entre les communautés du Pays Dogon, note encore l'agence onusienne, ajoutant que les activités génératrices de revenus pour les femmes, sont au cœur de ce projet, qui vise à promouvoir la réconciliation entre les communautés et à favoriser la protection du patrimoine dans le contexte difficile de la pandémie du COVID 19.
En 2012, le Mali est devenu l'épicentre d'une crise politique et de sécurité de grande ampleur, provoquée par l'arrivée de groupes armés dans les régions du nord et du centre du pays. Outre le fait de causer des victimes civiles et de créer de l'insécurité, la crise a provoqué la destruction totale ou partielle de près de 30 villages, situés pour moitié dans les limites du bien du patrimoine mondial de la falaise de Bandiagara (Pays Dogon).
Les experts de l'UNESCO travailleront en étroite collaboration avec une équipe d'experts maliens du ministère de la Culture, de la Direction nationale du patrimoine culturel (DNPC), de la Mission culturelle de Bandiagara (BCM) et de la Mission multidimensionnelle intégrée des Nations unies pour la stabilisation au Mali (MINUSMA), ainsi qu'avec les communautés locales, précise le communiqué, soulignant que l'intervention à Bandiagara s'appuie sur les initiatives de réhabilitation de l'UNESCO au Mali, actives depuis 2012, et sur le travail d'évaluation et de médiation effectué en 2019 pour donner suite à la spirale de violence intercommunautaire à Bandiagara.
La falaise de Bandiagara est un vaste paysage culturel couvrant 400 000 hectares dispersés dans trois régions naturelles : le plateau de grès, l'escarpement, et les plaines. Les communautés entretiennent une relation très étroite avec leur environnement, qui s'exprime par des rituels et des traditions sacrés. Le bien a été inscrit sur la Liste du patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO en 1989.
Hery
https://www.voaafrique.com/a/l-unesco-a-annonc%C3%A9-la-r%C3%A9habilitation-du-site-de-la-falaise-de-bandiagara-/5531116.html
Le 11 août 2020, l’Organisation des Nations Unies pour l’Education la Science et la Culture (UNESCO) a annoncé le lancement d’un projet de réhabilitation du patrimoine culturel et architectural de Bandiagara, ville historique, considérée comme la capitale du « Pays Dogon », et en partie détruite par le conflit qui fait rage dans le centre du Mali.
L’organisation onusienne précise dans un communiqué publié sur son site qu’elle « soutiendra la cohésion sociale et la résilience des communautés souffrant d’années de conflit armé dans le centre du Mali ». Elle souligne, en outre que ce soutien se fera « dans le cadre d’un nouveau projet majeur, rendu possible grâce à un financement d’un million de dollars US de l'Alliance internationale pour la protection du patrimoine dans les zones de conflit (ALIPH) ». Le projet apportera un soutien essentiel à la réhabilitation du bien du patrimoine mondial « Falaise de Bandiagara (Pays des Dogons) », qui abrite 289 villages répartis sur 400 000 hectares dans la région de Mopti. « La culture n’est pas seulement trop souvent victime de conflits armés prolongés, elle est aussi une source essentielle de résilience et un fondement important pour la construction de la paix » a déclaré la Directrice générale de l’UNESCO, Audrey Azoulay, citée dans le communiqué.
A travers ce nouveau projet, en collaboration avec les autorités maliennes, et financé par l’ALIPH, nous visons à placer la culture au cœur des efforts pour soutenir les communautés qui font de cette région leur foyer, a ajouté la même source. Ce projet de trois ans à Bandiagara vise à réhabiliter le patrimoine architectural endommagé, notamment les logements, les greniers et les sites consacrés à la culture traditionnelle, ainsi qu’à rétablir la production d’objets culturels et la sauvegarde des objets de cérémonies dans une collection commémorative, précise encore l'UNESCO. De par la réhabilitation et la sauvegarde des pratiques culturelles de la région (rites funéraires, danses masquées, …), le projet contribuera à renforcer le tissu social et la paix entre les communautés du Pays Dogon, note encore l'agence onusienne, ajoutant que les activités génératrices de revenus pour les femmes, sont au cœur de ce projet, qui vise à promouvoir la réconciliation entre les communautés et à favoriser la protection du patrimoine dans le contexte difficile de la pandémie du COVID 19.
En 2012, le Mali est devenu l'épicentre d'une crise politique et de sécurité de grande ampleur, provoquée par l'arrivée de groupes armés dans les régions du nord et du centre du pays. Outre le fait de causer des victimes civiles et de créer de l'insécurité, la crise a provoqué la destruction totale ou partielle de près de 30 villages, situés pour moitié dans les limites du bien du patrimoine mondial de la falaise de Bandiagara (Pays Dogon).
Les experts de l'UNESCO travailleront en étroite collaboration avec une équipe d'experts maliens du ministère de la Culture, de la Direction nationale du patrimoine culturel (DNPC), de la Mission culturelle de Bandiagara (BCM) et de la Mission multidimensionnelle intégrée des Nations unies pour la stabilisation au Mali (MINUSMA), ainsi qu'avec les communautés locales, précise le communiqué, soulignant que l'intervention à Bandiagara s'appuie sur les initiatives de réhabilitation de l'UNESCO au Mali, actives depuis 2012, et sur le travail d'évaluation et de médiation effectué en 2019 pour donner suite à la spirale de violence intercommunautaire à Bandiagara.
La falaise de Bandiagara est un vaste paysage culturel couvrant 400 000 hectares dispersés dans trois régions naturelles : le plateau de grès, l'escarpement, et les plaines. Les communautés entretiennent une relation très étroite avec leur environnement, qui s'exprime par des rituels et des traditions sacrés. Le bien a été inscrit sur la Liste du patrimoine mondial de l’UNESCO en 1989.
Hery
https://www.voaafrique.com/a/l-unesco-a-annonc%C3%A9-la-r%C3%A9habilitation-du-site-de-la-falaise-de-bandiagara-/5531116.html
Do you ever feel jaded when you travel?
I find myself feeling more and more jaded when I travel these days.
Boredom sets in. I’m not saying I don’t like boredom, but long-term...
So, I end up thinking traveling doesn’t really make much sense anymore.
Do you ever feel this way?
Nat
Nat
Préparation de voyage à moto au Vietnam English translation pending
bonjour a tous,
je prépare un voyage de 18 à 20 jours au vietnam pour le mois de janvier 2021 ou 2022 (suivant l'évolution du covid.
pour commencer notre style de voyage c'est loin des touristes et proche des endroits authentiques. (loin des club med ou autres).
j'ai commencé a regarder pour des guesthouses ou chambre chez l'habitant, ça serait notre mode d'hébergement. nous nous accorderons surement un joli hôtel dans le sejour.
nous devrions atterrir à ho chi minh ville. je prévois des faire des étapes de 2h30 maximum de moto pour relier les différentes destinations.
j'ai déjà repéré plusieurs lieu pouvant nous interesser :
-tunnel de cu chi -buu long pagoda -phan rang -thac ba -Chua suoi mo -parc naturel de cat tien avec comme logement des maison en bambou en bord du cours d'eau.
nous voulons faire une boucle en remontant par la cote les dernier jours. chaque étape durerais un ou deux jours.
bien sur rien n'est encore défini.
connaissez vous des lieux dans cette zone sud du vietnam valant le coup d'oeil, des activité sympas à faire, des guesthouses ou chambre chez l'habitant à recommander .
comment faite vous pour l'assurance moto?
comment être sur de ne pas se faire escroquer par un taxi (j'ai vu que ça devenait régulier).
je suis preneur de tous conseils. merci d'avance a vous.
je prépare un voyage de 18 à 20 jours au vietnam pour le mois de janvier 2021 ou 2022 (suivant l'évolution du covid.
pour commencer notre style de voyage c'est loin des touristes et proche des endroits authentiques. (loin des club med ou autres).
j'ai commencé a regarder pour des guesthouses ou chambre chez l'habitant, ça serait notre mode d'hébergement. nous nous accorderons surement un joli hôtel dans le sejour.
nous devrions atterrir à ho chi minh ville. je prévois des faire des étapes de 2h30 maximum de moto pour relier les différentes destinations.
j'ai déjà repéré plusieurs lieu pouvant nous interesser :
-tunnel de cu chi -buu long pagoda -phan rang -thac ba -Chua suoi mo -parc naturel de cat tien avec comme logement des maison en bambou en bord du cours d'eau.
nous voulons faire une boucle en remontant par la cote les dernier jours. chaque étape durerais un ou deux jours.
bien sur rien n'est encore défini.
connaissez vous des lieux dans cette zone sud du vietnam valant le coup d'oeil, des activité sympas à faire, des guesthouses ou chambre chez l'habitant à recommander .
comment faite vous pour l'assurance moto?
comment être sur de ne pas se faire escroquer par un taxi (j'ai vu que ça devenait régulier).
je suis preneur de tous conseils. merci d'avance a vous.
Voyage en famille à Madagascar hors coins touristiques English translation pending
bonjour j aimerai partir en voyage a madagsacar avec ma femme et mes enfants
j aimerai decouvrir et leur faire decouvrir ces joli paysages MAIS AUSSI les endroits locaux les lieux moins touristiques et aussi les coins defavorisés , en effet voir des endroits ou la richesse n est pas la car j aimerai avec mes enfants faire des dons d affaires et de fournitures scolaires , montrer a mes enfants comment ils vivent labas
si quel qu un pourai m aiguiller m indiquer
merci beaucoup
Voyage Montréal - Italie - sud de la France - Espagne - Portugal English translation pending
Bonjour, nous comptons faire un voyage en été qui fera ce circuit. Est-ce vous avez des incontournables à visiter pour une famille de avec 3 enfants ? Nous comptons louer une voiture et faire le trajet en voiture. Merci beaucoup
Le trajet sera: Montréal-Italie-Sud de la France-Espagne-Portugal
je modifie mon message pour le temps de voyage. Nous avons 14 jours au total
Le trajet sera: Montréal-Italie-Sud de la France-Espagne-Portugal
je modifie mon message pour le temps de voyage. Nous avons 14 jours au total
Idée de voyage itinérant à pied pour un mois dans les Pyrénées English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
nous sommes 2 filles en assez bonne forme ayant l'envie d'aller à la découverte des pyrénées tout le mois d'Août, nous ne connaissons pas la région. L'idée est de faire un voyage itinérant à pied et bivouaquer en partie. Nous n'avons pas assez de temps pour faire l'entièreté du GR10 par exemple, mais en un mois est-ce qu'il y a une portion qu'il faut privilégier? sinon pour la beauté des paysages et les lieux, d'autres tronçons sont intéressants?quitte à faire des sauts!
qu'en est-il d'un départ depuis Lourdes?
merci pour vos bons conseils!!!!!!!
Sara
Littérature sur la Grande-Bretagne English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
Je compte voyager en Grande-Bretagne (quand cette crise sera finie) et voudrais savoir quels livres vous me conseilleriez pour la découvrir en termes d'histoire, de culture, de politique, etc. ; et je recherche des œuvres littéraires comme des romans, des récits de voyages ou des essais, pas pas des guides de voyages.
Merci,
Caro
Je compte voyager en Grande-Bretagne (quand cette crise sera finie) et voudrais savoir quels livres vous me conseilleriez pour la découvrir en termes d'histoire, de culture, de politique, etc. ; et je recherche des œuvres littéraires comme des romans, des récits de voyages ou des essais, pas pas des guides de voyages.
Merci,
Caro
Chasse et randonnée en France English translation pending
Bonjour à tous,
J'ai une semaine de vacances fin septembre, au moment de l'ouverture de la chasse. Je cherche une idée de rando de 5/6 jours, en moyenne montagne, ou n'importe où en France, tant que c'est joli ! J'habite dans l'Essonne, et certains jours, surtout à l'automne, impossible de se balader tranquillement (jusqu'à devoir faire des détours par le goudron pour éviter les battues)... Un week-end en Baie de Somme avait été gâché par des sentiers inaccessibles... fermés par les chasseurs (et ça tirait énormément !)
J'ai déjà fait une bonne partie du gr34, le chemin de St Guilhem (ma rando préférée), le Gr30... mais pas à cette époque-là.
Merci pour vos bonnes idées !
Voyage à Taïwan pour la première fois en juillet-août English translation pending
Bonjour, je compte partir l'année prochaine en Taiwan pour la 1ere fois et j'aurais besoin de votre pour m'éclairer un peu ...
- Je compte partir avec ma ptite soeur et je me demandais comment ça se passe du côté de l'immigration ? Puis je être à côté d'elle pour parler ( Elle a un petit problème cérébral du coup elle ne sait que parlé Français ) ...
- En me renseignant je vois qu'il y a Taipei & Nouveau Taipei ... quel est la différence entre les 2 ? lequel des 2 conseillez vous pour une première fois ?
- Question météo et à la limite tarifaire ... Si vous devriez conseiller une période où il n'y a pas trop pluie ( j'imagine que 0 jour de pluie c'est impossible ) entre Juin - Juillet & Aout que conseillerez-vous ? Y a t'il une énorme augmentation des prix en Juillet & Aout ?
Merci pour votre aide ^^
- Je compte partir avec ma ptite soeur et je me demandais comment ça se passe du côté de l'immigration ? Puis je être à côté d'elle pour parler ( Elle a un petit problème cérébral du coup elle ne sait que parlé Français ) ...
- En me renseignant je vois qu'il y a Taipei & Nouveau Taipei ... quel est la différence entre les 2 ? lequel des 2 conseillez vous pour une première fois ?
- Question météo et à la limite tarifaire ... Si vous devriez conseiller une période où il n'y a pas trop pluie ( j'imagine que 0 jour de pluie c'est impossible ) entre Juin - Juillet & Aout que conseillerez-vous ? Y a t'il une énorme augmentation des prix en Juillet & Aout ?
Merci pour votre aide ^^