Results for "Juan-les-Pins+|+127"
6101 results found.
Corsair vs Air France? English translation pending
bonjour, voila je suis sur le point de reserver on me propose un vol corsair pour partir en martinique
qqun les a deja utilisé
quelle diff avec air france (a part le prix)
qqun les a deja utilisé
quelle diff avec air france (a part le prix)
Hôtel pas cher en République Dominicaine? English translation pending
Salut a tous, je pars dans 5 j en rep dom, pour 17j, de santo domingo a cabarete, et je n ai trouve sur le net aucun hotel pas chers? Y a t il quelqu un pour m aider sur ce coups la?????J'offre ce trip a ma copine, mais je ne me voit pas payer un hotel 3 etoiles tous les soirs...Please help!
Lionel
Lionel
Où aller en République Dominicaine? English translation pending
Bonjour,
Moi et 4 de mes copines iront en voyage au mois de février ou mars prochain et nous souhaiterions avoir des suggestions d'endroit? Nous aimerions aller dans un endroit où la plage est de sable blanc avec des cocotiers, pas nécessairement un endroit des plus branché mais où on peut avoir du plaisir! Nous avons pensé à la RD mais es-ce un bon choix et si oui à quel endroit devrions-nous aller?
Moi et 4 de mes copines iront en voyage au mois de février ou mars prochain et nous souhaiterions avoir des suggestions d'endroit? Nous aimerions aller dans un endroit où la plage est de sable blanc avec des cocotiers, pas nécessairement un endroit des plus branché mais où on peut avoir du plaisir! Nous avons pensé à la RD mais es-ce un bon choix et si oui à quel endroit devrions-nous aller?
Destination idéale en décembre-janvier?? English translation pending
😉Bonjour,
Je désire partir en voyage 2 semaines soit la dernière semaine de décembre et la première de janvier.....Quelle est la desination où j'aurai le plus de chance d'avoir des journées ensoleillées et chaudes ?
Auriez-vous des suggestions ??
Merci !😎
Je désire partir en voyage 2 semaines soit la dernière semaine de décembre et la première de janvier.....Quelle est la desination où j'aurai le plus de chance d'avoir des journées ensoleillées et chaudes ?
Auriez-vous des suggestions ??
Merci !😎
Petit commerce au Nicaragua English translation pending
Je parts bientôt (janvier) pour le Nicaragua, à Big Corn Island 😎 plus précisément du côté Caraibes. J'y vais avec l'intention de m'y installer et d'y ouvrir un petit commerce, aussi je me cherche un associé. S'il y a des interessés, veuillez me le communiquer pour plus d'infos.
Sailor 😉
Sailor 😉
Quel hôtel choisir? English translation pending
😉 pour un départ en novembre, avec mon mari.
Cherchons une idée d'hotel, surtout pas de tourisme de masse!.
J'aime le grand confort, danser le soir, bien et bon manger......
quelqu'un aurait un hotel à me proposer ?
Cherchons une idée d'hotel, surtout pas de tourisme de masse!.
J'aime le grand confort, danser le soir, bien et bon manger......
quelqu'un aurait un hotel à me proposer ?
Votre avis sur itinéraire Guatemala au Costa Rica? English translation pending
Salut à tous et à toutes...
Je viens de me fixer un itinèraire, donc si vous pouviez me dire ce que vous en pensez. Si les sites choisis sont biens, pas biens, à eviter. Si d'après le parcours que je fais, vous avez des renseignements pour les bus pour loger, des lieux à voir pas connus, enfin tout ce qui pourrait m'aider à affiner et budgetiser mon voyage. Je vous remercie tous et toutes d'avance.
Guatemala : Lac Atitlan San Pedro (15 jours minimum) pour cours d’espagnol + visites des alentours) San Pedro (Direction Frontière Mexicaine) -- Puerto Escondido (Mexique)
Mexique Puerto Escondido -- Oaxaca Oaxaca et ses environs dont Monte altan Oaxaca (direction côte Caraibes Mexique) -- Merida (Uxmal) Uxmal -- Chichen Itza Chichen Itza -- Cancùn (juste pour prendre une photo, mettre mes pieds dans l’eau et dire, j’y suis allé ! ! !) Cancùn -- Tulum -- Coba Tulum -- Belize ? ? ? ? (je ne sais vraiment pas si cela vaut le coup d’y aller, aidés moi…) Tulum -- Palenque Palenque -- Bonampa Bonampa -- San cristobal (car je crois que c’est dans les coins et que c’est magnifique y a paraît). San Cristobal -- Tikal (Guatemala)
Guatemala Tikal -- Flores -- Cobàn Cobàn -- Quirigua Quirigua -- Copan (Honduras)
Honduras Copan -- Islas de la Bahia Islas de la Bahia -- Trujillo Trujillo -- La Mosquita La Mosquita -- Miskitos Cayes (Nicaragua)
Nicaragua Miskitos Cayes -- Matagalpa Matagalpa -- Léon et ses environs Léon -- Massaya et ses volcans Massaya -- Granada Granada -- Ometepe Ometepe -- Lago Nicaragua -- San Carlos San carlos -- Monteverde (Costa-Rica)
Costa –Rica Monteverde -- Tortuereguo Tortureguo -- Cahuita -- Puerto Viejo Puerto Viejo -- San josé (retour en France quelques 4 mois après mon arrivée)
Merci encore une fois
Gratify
Je viens de me fixer un itinèraire, donc si vous pouviez me dire ce que vous en pensez. Si les sites choisis sont biens, pas biens, à eviter. Si d'après le parcours que je fais, vous avez des renseignements pour les bus pour loger, des lieux à voir pas connus, enfin tout ce qui pourrait m'aider à affiner et budgetiser mon voyage. Je vous remercie tous et toutes d'avance.
Guatemala : Lac Atitlan San Pedro (15 jours minimum) pour cours d’espagnol + visites des alentours) San Pedro (Direction Frontière Mexicaine) -- Puerto Escondido (Mexique)
Mexique Puerto Escondido -- Oaxaca Oaxaca et ses environs dont Monte altan Oaxaca (direction côte Caraibes Mexique) -- Merida (Uxmal) Uxmal -- Chichen Itza Chichen Itza -- Cancùn (juste pour prendre une photo, mettre mes pieds dans l’eau et dire, j’y suis allé ! ! !) Cancùn -- Tulum -- Coba Tulum -- Belize ? ? ? ? (je ne sais vraiment pas si cela vaut le coup d’y aller, aidés moi…) Tulum -- Palenque Palenque -- Bonampa Bonampa -- San cristobal (car je crois que c’est dans les coins et que c’est magnifique y a paraît). San Cristobal -- Tikal (Guatemala)
Guatemala Tikal -- Flores -- Cobàn Cobàn -- Quirigua Quirigua -- Copan (Honduras)
Honduras Copan -- Islas de la Bahia Islas de la Bahia -- Trujillo Trujillo -- La Mosquita La Mosquita -- Miskitos Cayes (Nicaragua)
Nicaragua Miskitos Cayes -- Matagalpa Matagalpa -- Léon et ses environs Léon -- Massaya et ses volcans Massaya -- Granada Granada -- Ometepe Ometepe -- Lago Nicaragua -- San Carlos San carlos -- Monteverde (Costa-Rica)
Costa –Rica Monteverde -- Tortuereguo Tortureguo -- Cahuita -- Puerto Viejo Puerto Viejo -- San josé (retour en France quelques 4 mois après mon arrivée)
Merci encore une fois
Gratify
Nous désirons nous installer au Costa Rica English translation pending
Bonjour a tous
nous désirons nous installer au Costa Rica, et cherchons des conseils, ou propositions,
nous y serons debut octobre pour 15 jours
merci a vous
nous désirons nous installer au Costa Rica, et cherchons des conseils, ou propositions,
nous y serons debut octobre pour 15 jours
merci a vous
Quel hôtel en République Dominicaine (novembre) English translation pending
Bonjour, nous souhaitons partir en républic dominicaine la première semaine de Novembre mais il y'a tellement d'hotels que l'on ne sait lequel choisir.
Nous cherchons un bon confort, une belle plage, de bons restaurants et des excursions sympa. Les activités ne sont pas notre priorité.
Merci de vos conseils.
Nous cherchons un bon confort, une belle plage, de bons restaurants et des excursions sympa. Les activités ne sont pas notre priorité.
Merci de vos conseils.
Flamenco English translation pending
bonjour à tous,
d'origine espagnole et ayant déjà testé plusieurs styles de danses ( classique évidemment mais aussi jazz, hip-hop, salsa et orientale) j'aimerais savoir si vous connaissez un cours de danse flamenco potable (attention: pas de sévillanes!) sur Paris et pas trop cher tant qu'à faire.
J'essaie d'écouter également de la musique flamenco mais mon répertoire reste limité étant donné que je ne m'y connais pas encore vraiment...
Merci de m'ouvrir musicalement parlant ! 😉
d'origine espagnole et ayant déjà testé plusieurs styles de danses ( classique évidemment mais aussi jazz, hip-hop, salsa et orientale) j'aimerais savoir si vous connaissez un cours de danse flamenco potable (attention: pas de sévillanes!) sur Paris et pas trop cher tant qu'à faire.
J'essaie d'écouter également de la musique flamenco mais mon répertoire reste limité étant donné que je ne m'y connais pas encore vraiment...
Merci de m'ouvrir musicalement parlant ! 😉
Cherche cours d'espagnol à Cuba ou autres pays d'Amérique du Sud English translation pending
Bonjour à tous 😎,
J'aimerais suivre un cours d'espagnol à Cuba ou autre pays d'Amérique du Sud. Connaissez-vous des agences qui offrent ce service à partir de Montréal?
Merci!
Geneviève
J'aimerais suivre un cours d'espagnol à Cuba ou autre pays d'Amérique du Sud. Connaissez-vous des agences qui offrent ce service à partir de Montréal?
Merci!
Geneviève
Hôtel Capella Beach Resort ou Hôtel Reina Cumayasa? English translation pending
Bonjour
J' envisage de partir par l'intermédiaire de SWITCH en Republique Dominicaine. J' hésite entre deux hotels: l'Hotel REINA CUMAYASA à La Romana et l' Hotel CAPELLA BEACH RESORT à Juan Dolio.
Je souhaiterai savoir comment sont ces deux hotels et quel est le plus sympa. MERCI
J' envisage de partir par l'intermédiaire de SWITCH en Republique Dominicaine. J' hésite entre deux hotels: l'Hotel REINA CUMAYASA à La Romana et l' Hotel CAPELLA BEACH RESORT à Juan Dolio.
Je souhaiterai savoir comment sont ces deux hotels et quel est le plus sympa. MERCI
Vivre au Panama? English translation pending
🙂 Slt à tous,
Je suis nouveau sur le site, et je recherche des infos (vécues)
J'ai le projet de m'installer en amerique centrale avec ma fille de douze ans, comment dois-je procéder pour travailler et me loger las-bas? Y a t'il des zones ou l'on parle Francais?
Comment est la vie las-bas? (je suis artisan dans le domaine du second-oeuvre et croyez moi j'en ai ras le bol de la métropole!!!)
Je recherche l'authenticité, pas les hotels et autres délires de touristes
Merci pour votre aide
Je suis nouveau sur le site, et je recherche des infos (vécues)
J'ai le projet de m'installer en amerique centrale avec ma fille de douze ans, comment dois-je procéder pour travailler et me loger las-bas? Y a t'il des zones ou l'on parle Francais?
Comment est la vie las-bas? (je suis artisan dans le domaine du second-oeuvre et croyez moi j'en ai ras le bol de la métropole!!!)
Je recherche l'authenticité, pas les hotels et autres délires de touristes
Merci pour votre aide
Adresses d'associations humanitaires en Amérique du Sud? English translation pending
Bonjours!
Je m'appelle Alain. J'ai 21 ans et je suis <SUisse. Cette année je quitterai Lausanne, pour un voyage à vélo. Je me rndrai en Aérique du SUd et espère y faire le tour... Voila, j'aimerai récolter un peu d'argent en SUisse, dans le but de transmettre cette somme a une ou plusieurs petites asso humanitaires quelque part en AMS. Je suis à la recherche d'une adressse, d'un contact, ou n'importe quoi qui pourait ^'être utile. a trouver une association ??
Merci
Je m'appelle Alain. J'ai 21 ans et je suis <SUisse. Cette année je quitterai Lausanne, pour un voyage à vélo. Je me rndrai en Aérique du SUd et espère y faire le tour... Voila, j'aimerai récolter un peu d'argent en SUisse, dans le but de transmettre cette somme a une ou plusieurs petites asso humanitaires quelque part en AMS. Je suis à la recherche d'une adressse, d'un contact, ou n'importe quoi qui pourait ^'être utile. a trouver une association ??
Merci
Sécurité au Honduras, Guatemala et Bélize English translation pending
salut a tous..
tout le monde parle des tensions politiques en ameriques central..!
y a t-ils des gens qui reviennent de l'amerique central pour me dire comment sa ce passe pour vraie...!!!
je part pour 4 mois dans 3 trois semaine...!!!
juste pour avoir la bonne version des faits..!!!!
merci.!! eric
y a t-ils des gens qui reviennent de l'amerique central pour me dire comment sa ce passe pour vraie...!!!
je part pour 4 mois dans 3 trois semaine...!!!
juste pour avoir la bonne version des faits..!!!!
merci.!! eric
République dominicaine English translation pending
Ce qu'il faut savoir........la capitale Santo domingo n, a pas grand chose a offrir....à part le mausolée avec la fausse dépouille de Colomb......!!!!!!!
Santo domingo et la côte sud jusque La Romana sont tres superficiels, bruyant et dangereux même........par contre je reccommande fortement la région de Las Terrenas, bcp plus calme, plus naturelle avec de superbes plages vierges....de gringos !! Pas de todo incluido mais une foule de petites auberges et restos tres sympas et vraimant pas chers....C'est a dire...possibilité de vivre avec 30, 00$CAN/jour logement et repas.......Qui dit mieux ?🙂
Santo domingo et la côte sud jusque La Romana sont tres superficiels, bruyant et dangereux même........par contre je reccommande fortement la région de Las Terrenas, bcp plus calme, plus naturelle avec de superbes plages vierges....de gringos !! Pas de todo incluido mais une foule de petites auberges et restos tres sympas et vraimant pas chers....C'est a dire...possibilité de vivre avec 30, 00$CAN/jour logement et repas.......Qui dit mieux ?🙂
Guatemala-Belize itinerary: too packed or missing something?
Hi everyone,
I’m in the middle of planning my trip for February 2027 with my family (4 adults). We’re thinking of a Guatemala-Belize combo. Could you let me know what you think of my itinerary? Should I add or remove anything? Is it too minimalist? Do you recommend renting a car or hiring a driver and guide? For the islands in Belize, is 5 days too much? The volcano hike isn’t included on purpose.
· 02/21 (Day 1) — Arrival in Guatemala Night: Antigua · 02/21 (Day 2) — Antigua, the colonial gem Half-day guided walking tour of convents, churches, and Spanish ruins. Volcanoes as a photo backdrop. Coffee plantation visit. Night: Antigua · 02/22 (Day 3) — Chichicastenango Market → Lake Atitlán Early morning drive to the big indigenous market. Guide to explain Mayan rituals in Santo Tomás Church. Afternoon transfer to Lake Atitlán. Night: Lake Atitlán · 02/23 (Day 4) — The Mayan Villages of Lake Atitlán Lake crossing. Visit the villages of San Juan La Laguna (weaving cooperatives) and Santiago Atitlán. Night: Lake Atitlán · 02/24 (Day 5) — Sololá Market → Return to Antigua Leave the lake in the morning. Visit the authentic high-altitude market of Sololá with a local guide, then drive back to spend the evening in Antigua. Night: Antigua · 02/25 (Day 6) — Flight to Flores → Transfer to Tikal Domestic flight directly to Tikal National Park. Night: Tikal (in the heart of the jungle) · 02/26 (Day 7) — Exploring the City of Tikal Explore the giant Mayan city of Tikal in the middle of the jungle with your French-speaking guide. Enjoy the lodge’s pool to the sound of howler monkeys. Night: Tikal
02/27 (Day 8) — Belize Border → Xunantunich Site → San Ignacio Visit the large Mayan site of Xunantunich right after crossing the border.
Night: San Ignacio
02/28 (Day 9) — Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve Full-day 4x4 tour with the lodge’s guide to explore Big Rock Falls (swimming in natural pools) and caves in the forest reserve.
Night: San Ignacio
03/01 (Days 10 to 15) — San Ignacio → Boat to Ambergris Caye
But I’m still not sure whether to go to Ambergris or Caye Caulker (what do you recommend?)
03/06 (Day 15) — Domestic Flight → International Return Flight (feasible or not?)
Thanks so much for your feedback!
I’m in the middle of planning my trip for February 2027 with my family (4 adults). We’re thinking of a Guatemala-Belize combo. Could you let me know what you think of my itinerary? Should I add or remove anything? Is it too minimalist? Do you recommend renting a car or hiring a driver and guide? For the islands in Belize, is 5 days too much? The volcano hike isn’t included on purpose.
· 02/21 (Day 1) — Arrival in Guatemala Night: Antigua · 02/21 (Day 2) — Antigua, the colonial gem Half-day guided walking tour of convents, churches, and Spanish ruins. Volcanoes as a photo backdrop. Coffee plantation visit. Night: Antigua · 02/22 (Day 3) — Chichicastenango Market → Lake Atitlán Early morning drive to the big indigenous market. Guide to explain Mayan rituals in Santo Tomás Church. Afternoon transfer to Lake Atitlán. Night: Lake Atitlán · 02/23 (Day 4) — The Mayan Villages of Lake Atitlán Lake crossing. Visit the villages of San Juan La Laguna (weaving cooperatives) and Santiago Atitlán. Night: Lake Atitlán · 02/24 (Day 5) — Sololá Market → Return to Antigua Leave the lake in the morning. Visit the authentic high-altitude market of Sololá with a local guide, then drive back to spend the evening in Antigua. Night: Antigua · 02/25 (Day 6) — Flight to Flores → Transfer to Tikal Domestic flight directly to Tikal National Park. Night: Tikal (in the heart of the jungle) · 02/26 (Day 7) — Exploring the City of Tikal Explore the giant Mayan city of Tikal in the middle of the jungle with your French-speaking guide. Enjoy the lodge’s pool to the sound of howler monkeys. Night: Tikal
02/27 (Day 8) — Belize Border → Xunantunich Site → San Ignacio Visit the large Mayan site of Xunantunich right after crossing the border.
Night: San Ignacio
02/28 (Day 9) — Mountain Pine Ridge Reserve Full-day 4x4 tour with the lodge’s guide to explore Big Rock Falls (swimming in natural pools) and caves in the forest reserve.
Night: San Ignacio
03/01 (Days 10 to 15) — San Ignacio → Boat to Ambergris Caye
But I’m still not sure whether to go to Ambergris or Caye Caulker (what do you recommend?)
03/06 (Day 15) — Domestic Flight → International Return Flight (feasible or not?)
Thanks so much for your feedback!
A Brief A to Z of Peru
Foreword
This text has been proofread many times.
Sorry if some points in this A to Z have already been covered on this forum.
Text and drawings by the author.
Peru is still a very vast country, with so much to see, and obviously this text can't list all the attractions of the country.
*Abiseo (River) A national park that's very hard to access and doesn’t seem open to visitors. Includes the Gran Pajaten site (see below). Personally, it really sparks my imagination (not visited personally)
*Aguas Calientes the town next to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train. Reminds me of the market where stalls line both sides of the tracks near Bangkok. I love it
*Altiplano: somewhere the "heart" of the Andes. I was able to trek across it on foot, starting from Caracollo in Bolivia, and of course, it’s vast plains to explore. This is where people live in a very rural way. Andean populations are quite austere compared to those in the lowlands or on the coast. You really have to appreciate the harshness of life to live there. Life is anything but superficial. I set a compass heading and found myself walking west toward the expanse of water near a place called La Joya. For pitching the tent, the nights were still chilly
*Canyon del Colca One of the deepest canyons in the world. Personally, I hiked down and back up on foot. The toughest stretch I’ve ever covered in my life.
*Ceviche More or less the national dish. A marinade of fish, shellfish, and lime. But you can find it in some restaurants in Europe, France, and certainly in Belgium or Switzerland. In the small restaurants of Pisco, you can eat excellent ceviche
*Cerro Sechín: Mostly bas-reliefs. A site little known to travelers in the Casma province. The first vestiges of a pre-Inca civilization with iconography similar to that of Chavín (not visited personally)
*Chan Chan A large city of the Chimú civilization and relatively vast to visit. You can see adobe walls with bas-reliefs. Visit from Trujillo, take a colectivo. Plan for the whole day
*Charango: a small guitar widely used in Andean music
*Chauchilla A necropolis near Nazca where you can see mummies exposed on the ground. YouTubers can do paranormal experiments there. And for anyone wondering about the fate of the soul and body after death, here’s the answer: the body remains after death. You can imagine your own flesh and body exposed to the winds of the Pampa and before eternity... (not visited personally)

*Chavín de Huántar (Lanzón) The site’s appeal lies in its mountainous surroundings, the Lanzón stela, and the sculpted heads on the façades. What few people know is that the Chavín civilization began its expansion centuries before the Incas. Unfortunately, you can’t get too close to see the Lanzón—the day I was there, it was protected by grilles. To get there: minibus from Huaraz or trek from Olleros. Then cross a high pass (over 5,000m). If you do it solo on foot, be careful—the path isn’t obvious from Olleros
*Chullpa: funerary tower, notably at Sillustani in the Lake Titicaca region
*Chimú: pre-Inca civilization whose center was Chan Chan.
*Chola/Cholitas (Bolivia): typical clothing style of women from the Andean plateaus

*Chompa: pronounce it *Chompaaa!* A common term for a wool sweater with vicuña patterns, often knitted from alpaca wool. If you dress like this, it’s a bit kitschy around the edges
*Cuy That one isn’t a guinea pig like in Guyana but an actual guinea pig. During a trip to Peru, I was hiking near a village north of Quillabamba (the terminus of the train line that passes through Aguas Calientes), and I was invited to stay in a house. The family raised a few of these pets. Apparently, the locals eat them. Since I’m not much of a meat-eater, it doesn’t really tempt me. How about you?
*Pacific Coast or how to talk about a place you haven’t visited? Except for the coast near Pisco and San Andrés, I haven’t visited any coastal cities. But that doesn’t mean these places lack interest or poetry. For fans of clichéd images, pelicans, seabirds, and fishing boats appear by the sea.
*Gran Pajaten: also closed to the public. Features anthropomorphic bas-reliefs. (not visited personally)
*Huaca. Visit the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna, especially near Trujillo. However, you can skip them—Chan Chan is still more interesting. Don’t forget to spend time visiting Chan Chan
*Huacachina A small oasis in the desert near Ica. Yes, we’re talking about an oasis because for those who’ve never traveled to Peru, the coastal strip along the Pacific is almost entirely desert, from north to south. Peru is territorially made up of three different regions: the desert coast, the Altiplano stretching north to south with mountain ranges (the Cordilleras), and the Amazon basin to the east. (not visited personally)
*Inca Kola It’s neither Coca-Cola nor Pepsi but a unique cola with a slightly orange color. Tastes like bubble gum
*Intiwatana: a carved rock shaped like a parallelepiped. Is it a sundial?
*Ballestas Islands: a highlight in Peru, though very touristy. You can only get there by boat from the port of San Andrés, a few kilometers from Pisco. It’s a surreal place to me—actually islets with cavities where sea lions and fur seals live. Since it’s a protected area, you’re not allowed to disembark. Guano is harvested there, which can be used as fertilizer.
*Kuelap: a fortress built by the Chachapoyas people. Rarely visited by travelers. (not visited personally)
*Larco Museum: an iconic museum in Lima with a large collection of pieces from archaeological and pre-Columbian sites. From what I remember, it has many pieces from the Moche civilization. As for the Moche statuettes, the prudish might look away. Probably a veneration of the god Priapus without knowing it.
*Nazca Lines Discovered by German archaeologist Maria Reiche, they stretch for kilometers. The designs in the desert around Nazca depict animals and cabalistic signs. The question I ask myself is why the creators of these lines represented a monkey and a hummingbird—species endemic to the tropical forest, not the desert plains around Nazca.
*Machu Picchu: means "old mountain" in Quechua. There’s also Wayna Picchu. The ruins of the site emerge from a sort of small plateau above Aguas Calientes. When the mist rises above the site and the bend of the Urubamba River, it’s truly magical... Also the starting point of the Inca Trail.

*Coca tea A decoction/infusion of the coca plant, meant to ease altitude sickness or *soroche*
*Chullo A rough translation would be a Peruvian wool hat.
*Moche: a civilization established in the Moche Valley, hence the term *Mochica*. What characterizes this civilization are the distinctive clay pieces representing faces and erotic statuettes
*Papa a la Huancaína A local potato dish
*Pisac: a typical market near Cusco
*Pisco Sour: perhaps the Peruvian equivalent of the *caipirinha* you drink in Brazil.
*Puya Raimondii A Bromeliaceae that still looks like a cactus, endemic to the Altiplano
*Quechua The language spoken by the indigenous people of the high plateaus (as well as Aymara in Bolivia)
*Quipu A knotted string used for counting. Widely used by the Inca administration.
*Sacsayhuamán (Q’enqo, Inca Bath) From Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, take the streets that climb above the city. Sacsayhuamán is called a fortress and is made up of large stone blocks. You wonder how the Incas could cut such huge blocks to assemble them—just like some streets in Cusco. The Q’enqo block is enigmatic; no one really knows what it represents.
*Savia Andina An Andean folk group.
*Tambo (=> Ollantaytambo) The Inca emperor (Atahualpa, Manco Capac) had the mission of controlling a vast empire. An empire that was still very extensive. Hence the importance of these *tambos* or relay stations. Napoleon created the civil code; the Incas invented the *tambos* and *quipus*.
*Tawantinsuyu: the Inca Empire
*Tinku: a warrior dance practiced mainly in Bolivia
*Golden Tumi: a sacrificial weapon. Often featured in Peru travel guides. See illustration

*Terra X: a documentary series from the German TV channel that aired on Arte. Some episodes focused on pre-Inca and Inca Peru. I must have some old recording tapes. In memory of Gottfried Kirchner as a source of inspiration.
*Uros: I checked—it actually refers to the people who live on these floating islands. Even if it’s touristy, it’s a must-visit because it’s incredible how people can live on islets made from nothing. Take the boat from Puno
*Vicuña, llama, guanaco: camelids characteristic of the Altiplano

*Wayna Picchu The young Picchu mountain. In the first minutes of *Aguirre, the Wrath of God*, you see Klaus Kinski—well, Aguirre—making his way along the Inca Trail. Werner Herzog must have broken his back filming those sequences.
*Zampoña: pan flute
Peru is still a very vast country, with so much to see, and obviously this text can't list all the attractions of the country.
*Abiseo (River) A national park that's very hard to access and doesn’t seem open to visitors. Includes the Gran Pajaten site (see below). Personally, it really sparks my imagination (not visited personally)
*Aguas Calientes the town next to Machu Picchu, more precisely below the archaeological site. As far as I know, you can only get there by train. Reminds me of the market where stalls line both sides of the tracks near Bangkok. I love it
*Altiplano: somewhere the "heart" of the Andes. I was able to trek across it on foot, starting from Caracollo in Bolivia, and of course, it’s vast plains to explore. This is where people live in a very rural way. Andean populations are quite austere compared to those in the lowlands or on the coast. You really have to appreciate the harshness of life to live there. Life is anything but superficial. I set a compass heading and found myself walking west toward the expanse of water near a place called La Joya. For pitching the tent, the nights were still chilly
*Canyon del Colca One of the deepest canyons in the world. Personally, I hiked down and back up on foot. The toughest stretch I’ve ever covered in my life.
*Ceviche More or less the national dish. A marinade of fish, shellfish, and lime. But you can find it in some restaurants in Europe, France, and certainly in Belgium or Switzerland. In the small restaurants of Pisco, you can eat excellent ceviche
*Cerro Sechín: Mostly bas-reliefs. A site little known to travelers in the Casma province. The first vestiges of a pre-Inca civilization with iconography similar to that of Chavín (not visited personally)
*Chan Chan A large city of the Chimú civilization and relatively vast to visit. You can see adobe walls with bas-reliefs. Visit from Trujillo, take a colectivo. Plan for the whole day
*Charango: a small guitar widely used in Andean music
*Chauchilla A necropolis near Nazca where you can see mummies exposed on the ground. YouTubers can do paranormal experiments there. And for anyone wondering about the fate of the soul and body after death, here’s the answer: the body remains after death. You can imagine your own flesh and body exposed to the winds of the Pampa and before eternity... (not visited personally)

*Chavín de Huántar (Lanzón) The site’s appeal lies in its mountainous surroundings, the Lanzón stela, and the sculpted heads on the façades. What few people know is that the Chavín civilization began its expansion centuries before the Incas. Unfortunately, you can’t get too close to see the Lanzón—the day I was there, it was protected by grilles. To get there: minibus from Huaraz or trek from Olleros. Then cross a high pass (over 5,000m). If you do it solo on foot, be careful—the path isn’t obvious from Olleros
*Chullpa: funerary tower, notably at Sillustani in the Lake Titicaca region
*Chimú: pre-Inca civilization whose center was Chan Chan.
*Chola/Cholitas (Bolivia): typical clothing style of women from the Andean plateaus

*Chompa: pronounce it *Chompaaa!* A common term for a wool sweater with vicuña patterns, often knitted from alpaca wool. If you dress like this, it’s a bit kitschy around the edges
*Cuy That one isn’t a guinea pig like in Guyana but an actual guinea pig. During a trip to Peru, I was hiking near a village north of Quillabamba (the terminus of the train line that passes through Aguas Calientes), and I was invited to stay in a house. The family raised a few of these pets. Apparently, the locals eat them. Since I’m not much of a meat-eater, it doesn’t really tempt me. How about you?
*Pacific Coast or how to talk about a place you haven’t visited? Except for the coast near Pisco and San Andrés, I haven’t visited any coastal cities. But that doesn’t mean these places lack interest or poetry. For fans of clichéd images, pelicans, seabirds, and fishing boats appear by the sea.
*Gran Pajaten: also closed to the public. Features anthropomorphic bas-reliefs. (not visited personally)
*Huaca. Visit the Huaca del Sol and Huaca de la Luna, especially near Trujillo. However, you can skip them—Chan Chan is still more interesting. Don’t forget to spend time visiting Chan Chan
*Huacachina A small oasis in the desert near Ica. Yes, we’re talking about an oasis because for those who’ve never traveled to Peru, the coastal strip along the Pacific is almost entirely desert, from north to south. Peru is territorially made up of three different regions: the desert coast, the Altiplano stretching north to south with mountain ranges (the Cordilleras), and the Amazon basin to the east. (not visited personally)
*Inca Kola It’s neither Coca-Cola nor Pepsi but a unique cola with a slightly orange color. Tastes like bubble gum
*Intiwatana: a carved rock shaped like a parallelepiped. Is it a sundial?
*Ballestas Islands: a highlight in Peru, though very touristy. You can only get there by boat from the port of San Andrés, a few kilometers from Pisco. It’s a surreal place to me—actually islets with cavities where sea lions and fur seals live. Since it’s a protected area, you’re not allowed to disembark. Guano is harvested there, which can be used as fertilizer.
*Kuelap: a fortress built by the Chachapoyas people. Rarely visited by travelers. (not visited personally)
*Larco Museum: an iconic museum in Lima with a large collection of pieces from archaeological and pre-Columbian sites. From what I remember, it has many pieces from the Moche civilization. As for the Moche statuettes, the prudish might look away. Probably a veneration of the god Priapus without knowing it.
*Nazca Lines Discovered by German archaeologist Maria Reiche, they stretch for kilometers. The designs in the desert around Nazca depict animals and cabalistic signs. The question I ask myself is why the creators of these lines represented a monkey and a hummingbird—species endemic to the tropical forest, not the desert plains around Nazca.
*Machu Picchu: means "old mountain" in Quechua. There’s also Wayna Picchu. The ruins of the site emerge from a sort of small plateau above Aguas Calientes. When the mist rises above the site and the bend of the Urubamba River, it’s truly magical... Also the starting point of the Inca Trail.

*Coca tea A decoction/infusion of the coca plant, meant to ease altitude sickness or *soroche*
*Chullo A rough translation would be a Peruvian wool hat.
*Moche: a civilization established in the Moche Valley, hence the term *Mochica*. What characterizes this civilization are the distinctive clay pieces representing faces and erotic statuettes
*Papa a la Huancaína A local potato dish
*Pisac: a typical market near Cusco
*Pisco Sour: perhaps the Peruvian equivalent of the *caipirinha* you drink in Brazil.
*Puya Raimondii A Bromeliaceae that still looks like a cactus, endemic to the Altiplano
*Quechua The language spoken by the indigenous people of the high plateaus (as well as Aymara in Bolivia)
*Quipu A knotted string used for counting. Widely used by the Inca administration.
*Sacsayhuamán (Q’enqo, Inca Bath) From Cusco’s Plaza de Armas, take the streets that climb above the city. Sacsayhuamán is called a fortress and is made up of large stone blocks. You wonder how the Incas could cut such huge blocks to assemble them—just like some streets in Cusco. The Q’enqo block is enigmatic; no one really knows what it represents.
*Savia Andina An Andean folk group.
*Tambo (=> Ollantaytambo) The Inca emperor (Atahualpa, Manco Capac) had the mission of controlling a vast empire. An empire that was still very extensive. Hence the importance of these *tambos* or relay stations. Napoleon created the civil code; the Incas invented the *tambos* and *quipus*.
*Tawantinsuyu: the Inca Empire
*Tinku: a warrior dance practiced mainly in Bolivia
*Golden Tumi: a sacrificial weapon. Often featured in Peru travel guides. See illustration

*Terra X: a documentary series from the German TV channel that aired on Arte. Some episodes focused on pre-Inca and Inca Peru. I must have some old recording tapes. In memory of Gottfried Kirchner as a source of inspiration.
*Uros: I checked—it actually refers to the people who live on these floating islands. Even if it’s touristy, it’s a must-visit because it’s incredible how people can live on islets made from nothing. Take the boat from Puno
*Vicuña, llama, guanaco: camelids characteristic of the Altiplano

*Wayna Picchu The young Picchu mountain. In the first minutes of *Aguirre, the Wrath of God*, you see Klaus Kinski—well, Aguirre—making his way along the Inca Trail. Werner Herzog must have broken his back filming those sequences.
*Zampoña: pan flute
Havana, Cuba / January 2026
I got into music with the will
To light up many hearths like Che could do,
To circulate ideas, to advance utopia
Alternating barricades, sharp thought, and poetry.
Mc Solaar, Guérilla
Subscribing without a fight to the slightest line of my itinerary sometimes feels like an illusion. Because there are countries where, despite the fever and enthusiasm, despite the triumphant revolution, certain elements block my path. And if I had planned, for F. and me, a beautiful ascent up Tabouret Hill (Loma del Taburete, 453m), it was without accounting for vegetation as dense as it was thorny, which barred our way after just a few quarters of an hour of walking. Exhausted, I had to face the facts: we wouldn’t go any further. I needed to come up with some kind of Plan B.
But what is this country, an unwitting laboratory of the worst that white civilization has done during its reign? What is this magnificent place—yet another—entrusted to the care of oblivion, just 150 km from the land of freedom? According to Donald Trump, a country supporting terrorism; according to the locals, the vast battlefield of 20th-century ideologies; according to the average tourist, a hot country, a beautiful country, a country where the last illusions of a lost paradise are dying.
On the other side of Havana Bay, we love that statue of Christ blessing the city. There’s something gentle, soothing, in that patriarchal gesture. You’d almost be tempted to forget that at the dawn of the 16th century, those who claimed to represent the Church had no scruples about eradicating the Ciboney and Taíno populations. Worse, you’ll find magnificent this cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary, right in the heart of the old city. Under the guise of a civilizing necessity, Havana became, like so many other places, the gilded seat of European pretensions, at the expense of local populations doomed to extermination, then enslaved populations—more or less indigenous—who, you can imagine, didn’t often set foot in this holy place.
Lost in my thoughts, I try to push through this tangled vegetation. Nature reclaims its rights; nature abhors a vacuum. Yes, the well-trodden path of revolution couldn’t stay free of weeds! The road is buried. We give up and turn back, until that fork I’d noted before leaving, which would let us reach the top of the hill by skirting its northern slope.
So the white man arrives, settles, and gets rid of everything that bothers him. He has two unstoppable forces at his disposal: gunpowder and the spiritual certainty of being on the side of an all-powerful god. While the first gives him an unmatched material advantage over his new enemy, the second lets him use the first without feeling too guilty. That’s the magic of this supreme Church: it condemns all forms of pleasure—calling them impurity—while promoting plunder and crime under the cover of evangelization.
Walking through the city, you find a bit of Algiers, except that here, the decay is almost irreversible. You feel the splendor of the past, a disconcerting image of all vanity, from an era when men knew how to build beauty—especially if they didn’t have to share it. We’ll debate the benefits of colonialism for a long time, while glossing over the fact that those benefits often stopped at the city limits, limits all too obvious to the indigenous people. Havana isn’t just one or a few buildings; it’s an impressive collection of works of art built one after another, in what I think was a spirit of healthy competition. Yes, you find Algiers in this exuberance. As if these distant cities were the receptacle of everything that was best in the lands of origin. Atlantes and lintels, golds, blues, ogives, and monumental windows—exceptional architecture in an exceptional place.
Some streets are clean, swept with care; others are not, scattered here and there with potholes filled with water. A rather persistent smell of urine invades us regularly. We move on. And we look up: Havana is visited with your nose in the air. Because the beauty is truly up there, on those magnificent balconies and terracotta arches. Also because it’s not impossible that a piece of that balcony might suddenly detach, hurling our ends into an overseas tragedy we’d rather avoid. On the ground, here and there, rubble. Inexorably, this city is returning to dust.
My Plan B turns out to be no more successful than the first attempt. After a cheerful progression of a few hundred meters, same outcome, same struggle—the vegetation opposes any revolution: impossible to go around the hill! Once again, we have to turn back. We’ll try Plan C. I reassure myself by convincing myself to stay in the logic of this country: Cuba has been searching for itself for five centuries.
Coffee, tobacco, and sugarcane—the green gold of the colonies—so that money could flow and Europe could enjoy itself. Cuba’s history isn’t original. In reality, all the hot lands at these latitudes suffer the same fate: to serve the white man. While waiting for the awakening of consciences, UN Resolution 1514 and more or less affirmed revolutionary desires. Except that—and this reflection is just my own—if the awakening of consciences and the revolutionary will don’t play into what Resolution 1514 hides, there’s a good chance the said state will become a pariah. Those who don’t follow the American doctrine risk a lot; those who decide to follow Moscow risk everything. Independence was only the barely discreet instrument of American views. Patrice Lumumba will gladly enlighten us on the subject.
Turning back is good. Setting up Plan C is better. I won’t deviate from my goal: we will reach the top of Tabouret, whatever the cost! Near a small country road, I hesitate to change the program. Time is ticking—is it really reasonable to attempt the ascent? Then a tricycle taxi appears, a kind of tuk-tuk powered by an electric moped. I take it as a sign from fate, and we board for the starting point of Plan C.
In Cuba, even before Resolution 1514, independence was assured by a pawn of the United States, Fulgencio Batista. There’s no need to go over the whole history here; we’ll just remember that if you know how to give without counting to your former masters, you can enjoy a facade of freedom. Fidel Castro, on the other hand, didn’t know how to give. It never even occurred to him. That’s why the United States harbors such terrible hatred for this rebellious state, opposed to capitalist values and political prostitution. From there to slowly killing its people for nearly seventy years, one can legitimately cry injustice. But there are other priorities. Oh yes! Greenland...
Do Cubans eat their fill? Does seeing overweight people mean opulence? Food grows, no doubt about it. The soil is fertile, the climate favorable. No, what shocks here is the absolute precarity, the feeling of a people living in survival mode, and the decay of both goods and hope. Where to go? What’s the point? The stubbornness of the United States in wanting to impose its views on the Cuban government is felt much more by an overwhelmed people than by those few elites—caricatures of communism—who instill their vision of happiness with a crowbar. The embargo imposed in 1960; the false-flag attacks—American planes flying the colors of the Cuban revolution during the Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961—the exasperation of placing Cuba on the list of countries supporting terrorism. More recently, Donald Trump decided to heavily tax countries supplying Cuba with fuel. The last time I saw such long lines near gas stations was during my first trip to Romania... in 1991. It’s not for me to judge whether Raúl and his clique are playing fair by thumbing their noses at the West. I don’t hold the ins and outs of this war of egos that keeps the world’s great powers awake. I only caught a glimpse of the poverty of an island in 2026, while we in Europe are buried under an avalanche of the useless and superficial.
At the start of the San Juan baths, we find the trailhead. It climbs steeply. But the weather is relatively mild, thanks to a cold wave hitting higher up in the United States. Dallas is under snow; we’re walking in 16°C, a stroke of luck. We climb over rocks, under fairly decent vegetation, sometimes low but passable. And we succeed in the ascent in an hour. Up there, the top of the hill is somewhat maintained, at a minimum, but maintained, as if to honor Che through an awful monument erected in his glory—a stubborn specimen from those years when good taste was inversely proportional to the delusional ideas of those being honored. Birds of prey (raptors?) circle overhead; the monument is dying, crumbling, falling into ruin. *Hasta siempre*—forever—will be for the words. Nature, erosion, life itself will have the last word over all revolutions.
Back at the foot of the hill, just before a memorable swim, we talk with a family living there in miserable shacks whose stability wasn’t unlike that of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The grandmother holds an animal, a rodent, by its feet. The grandfather has just killed it; she’s plucking its fur. A few steps away, water boils in a pot. She plunges the beast into the container. Tonight, the family will eat ragondin stew. Further on, another shack where, in a disorder rivaling the filth, a mother breastfeeds while sitting on the edge of a bed. Then, on the way down, we’ll meet a middle-aged man carrying a large jerrycan of water on his shoulder. Are these people happy here, far from the cities and their stakes? Is it too much to ask that they at least have access to electricity, running water, and decent, safe housing?
Outside the old city, Havana reveals wide avenues serving imposing institutions here and there. But whether in the colorful alleys of the old town or on the majestic and austere Plaza de la Revolución, the same feeling moves me: sadness. Seeing that only chaos has come from ideas crushes me. We praise, we sing the revolution—above all, we impose it in people’s minds as a necessity, when it’s nothing of the sort. Revolution is just the fruit of a few tortured minds who, once in power, do nothing better than all those before them. Enjoy power. Impose their views. It’s just a matter of color. Fidel saw red and knew how to persuade—or silence forever—his many detractors. The West sees everything in white, through the prism of human rights, and also knows how to persuade and silence its slightest detractors forever.
Paradoxically, Cuba survives largely thanks to tourism, a key element—let’s not be afraid to say it—of capitalism. And when a few players pick up the crumbs from transactions, the lion’s share and the foreign currency go to the government. So we won’t go to Varadero, the high place of relaxation overrun by Canadians. Instead, we’ll limit ourselves to crossing the ocean 30 minutes from the capital, at Santa María del Mar, to get an idea of cheaper tourism and to splash around for a few minutes in turquoise water invaded by sargassum. At the heart of the tourist season, we’ll meet few people. Like Havana, and according to its inhabitants, the high season is rather dead. But we won’t have come for nothing: we particularly love this return where, feverish, the taxi driver pushes his Moskvitch 2140 to the max on the highway, singing karaoke versions of hits at the top of his lungs from an onboard DVD player. East/West, the culture clash with a hint of Latino.
It’s time to leave this country of resourcefulness where extremes are very present. We’re leaving a 5-star hotel in front of yet another crumbling building. We’ve known restaurants at 40,000 pesos while in the street people eat for 400. We’ve seen those countless cars from another era and another culture—Pontiac, Lada, Chevrolet, Moskvitch—being overtaken by gleaming Mercedes and other Porsche Cayennes, the prerogative—if it still needed to be demonstrated—of the newly rich in search of recognition. Boarding the plane, we also understand that we’re not just traveling with tourists: there’s undoubtedly a rich and prosperous diaspora, just as there are relatively wealthy Cubans—well, wealthy enough to travel comfortably in the front of the aircraft. Meanwhile, on all the country’s roads, other Cubans try hitchhiking, their wives and children perched on a suitcase by the roadside. The father holds out his arm and holds a few bills in his hand like a card game. Where are they going? Who will pick them up?
Behind me, the gold of the Capitol. I’m told this gold comes from Russia. Like Marx and Lenin’s smoky theories? Like Stalin’s subtle and delicate paternalism? Let’s bet that, like the other buildings crumbling around it, the Capitol will also collapse one day, to avenge the Indians who perished from the diseases and guns of the whites, to avenge the Africans who obliterated their lives so Europeans could enjoy themselves, finally, to avenge all this abandoned people, left to the arbitrariness of democratic or non-democratic elections.
A sign in the street: We understand history. This is the revolution! We understand history. That’s the revolution.
No comment.
Subscribing without a fight to the slightest line of my itinerary sometimes feels like an illusion. Because there are countries where, despite the fever and enthusiasm, despite the triumphant revolution, certain elements block my path. And if I had planned, for F. and me, a beautiful ascent up Tabouret Hill (Loma del Taburete, 453m), it was without accounting for vegetation as dense as it was thorny, which barred our way after just a few quarters of an hour of walking. Exhausted, I had to face the facts: we wouldn’t go any further. I needed to come up with some kind of Plan B.
But what is this country, an unwitting laboratory of the worst that white civilization has done during its reign? What is this magnificent place—yet another—entrusted to the care of oblivion, just 150 km from the land of freedom? According to Donald Trump, a country supporting terrorism; according to the locals, the vast battlefield of 20th-century ideologies; according to the average tourist, a hot country, a beautiful country, a country where the last illusions of a lost paradise are dying.
On the other side of Havana Bay, we love that statue of Christ blessing the city. There’s something gentle, soothing, in that patriarchal gesture. You’d almost be tempted to forget that at the dawn of the 16th century, those who claimed to represent the Church had no scruples about eradicating the Ciboney and Taíno populations. Worse, you’ll find magnificent this cathedral dedicated to the Virgin Mary, right in the heart of the old city. Under the guise of a civilizing necessity, Havana became, like so many other places, the gilded seat of European pretensions, at the expense of local populations doomed to extermination, then enslaved populations—more or less indigenous—who, you can imagine, didn’t often set foot in this holy place.
Lost in my thoughts, I try to push through this tangled vegetation. Nature reclaims its rights; nature abhors a vacuum. Yes, the well-trodden path of revolution couldn’t stay free of weeds! The road is buried. We give up and turn back, until that fork I’d noted before leaving, which would let us reach the top of the hill by skirting its northern slope.
So the white man arrives, settles, and gets rid of everything that bothers him. He has two unstoppable forces at his disposal: gunpowder and the spiritual certainty of being on the side of an all-powerful god. While the first gives him an unmatched material advantage over his new enemy, the second lets him use the first without feeling too guilty. That’s the magic of this supreme Church: it condemns all forms of pleasure—calling them impurity—while promoting plunder and crime under the cover of evangelization.
Walking through the city, you find a bit of Algiers, except that here, the decay is almost irreversible. You feel the splendor of the past, a disconcerting image of all vanity, from an era when men knew how to build beauty—especially if they didn’t have to share it. We’ll debate the benefits of colonialism for a long time, while glossing over the fact that those benefits often stopped at the city limits, limits all too obvious to the indigenous people. Havana isn’t just one or a few buildings; it’s an impressive collection of works of art built one after another, in what I think was a spirit of healthy competition. Yes, you find Algiers in this exuberance. As if these distant cities were the receptacle of everything that was best in the lands of origin. Atlantes and lintels, golds, blues, ogives, and monumental windows—exceptional architecture in an exceptional place.
Some streets are clean, swept with care; others are not, scattered here and there with potholes filled with water. A rather persistent smell of urine invades us regularly. We move on. And we look up: Havana is visited with your nose in the air. Because the beauty is truly up there, on those magnificent balconies and terracotta arches. Also because it’s not impossible that a piece of that balcony might suddenly detach, hurling our ends into an overseas tragedy we’d rather avoid. On the ground, here and there, rubble. Inexorably, this city is returning to dust.
My Plan B turns out to be no more successful than the first attempt. After a cheerful progression of a few hundred meters, same outcome, same struggle—the vegetation opposes any revolution: impossible to go around the hill! Once again, we have to turn back. We’ll try Plan C. I reassure myself by convincing myself to stay in the logic of this country: Cuba has been searching for itself for five centuries.
Coffee, tobacco, and sugarcane—the green gold of the colonies—so that money could flow and Europe could enjoy itself. Cuba’s history isn’t original. In reality, all the hot lands at these latitudes suffer the same fate: to serve the white man. While waiting for the awakening of consciences, UN Resolution 1514 and more or less affirmed revolutionary desires. Except that—and this reflection is just my own—if the awakening of consciences and the revolutionary will don’t play into what Resolution 1514 hides, there’s a good chance the said state will become a pariah. Those who don’t follow the American doctrine risk a lot; those who decide to follow Moscow risk everything. Independence was only the barely discreet instrument of American views. Patrice Lumumba will gladly enlighten us on the subject.
Turning back is good. Setting up Plan C is better. I won’t deviate from my goal: we will reach the top of Tabouret, whatever the cost! Near a small country road, I hesitate to change the program. Time is ticking—is it really reasonable to attempt the ascent? Then a tricycle taxi appears, a kind of tuk-tuk powered by an electric moped. I take it as a sign from fate, and we board for the starting point of Plan C.
In Cuba, even before Resolution 1514, independence was assured by a pawn of the United States, Fulgencio Batista. There’s no need to go over the whole history here; we’ll just remember that if you know how to give without counting to your former masters, you can enjoy a facade of freedom. Fidel Castro, on the other hand, didn’t know how to give. It never even occurred to him. That’s why the United States harbors such terrible hatred for this rebellious state, opposed to capitalist values and political prostitution. From there to slowly killing its people for nearly seventy years, one can legitimately cry injustice. But there are other priorities. Oh yes! Greenland...
Do Cubans eat their fill? Does seeing overweight people mean opulence? Food grows, no doubt about it. The soil is fertile, the climate favorable. No, what shocks here is the absolute precarity, the feeling of a people living in survival mode, and the decay of both goods and hope. Where to go? What’s the point? The stubbornness of the United States in wanting to impose its views on the Cuban government is felt much more by an overwhelmed people than by those few elites—caricatures of communism—who instill their vision of happiness with a crowbar. The embargo imposed in 1960; the false-flag attacks—American planes flying the colors of the Cuban revolution during the Bay of Pigs invasion in 1961—the exasperation of placing Cuba on the list of countries supporting terrorism. More recently, Donald Trump decided to heavily tax countries supplying Cuba with fuel. The last time I saw such long lines near gas stations was during my first trip to Romania... in 1991. It’s not for me to judge whether Raúl and his clique are playing fair by thumbing their noses at the West. I don’t hold the ins and outs of this war of egos that keeps the world’s great powers awake. I only caught a glimpse of the poverty of an island in 2026, while we in Europe are buried under an avalanche of the useless and superficial.
At the start of the San Juan baths, we find the trailhead. It climbs steeply. But the weather is relatively mild, thanks to a cold wave hitting higher up in the United States. Dallas is under snow; we’re walking in 16°C, a stroke of luck. We climb over rocks, under fairly decent vegetation, sometimes low but passable. And we succeed in the ascent in an hour. Up there, the top of the hill is somewhat maintained, at a minimum, but maintained, as if to honor Che through an awful monument erected in his glory—a stubborn specimen from those years when good taste was inversely proportional to the delusional ideas of those being honored. Birds of prey (raptors?) circle overhead; the monument is dying, crumbling, falling into ruin. *Hasta siempre*—forever—will be for the words. Nature, erosion, life itself will have the last word over all revolutions.
Back at the foot of the hill, just before a memorable swim, we talk with a family living there in miserable shacks whose stability wasn’t unlike that of the Leaning Tower of Pisa. The grandmother holds an animal, a rodent, by its feet. The grandfather has just killed it; she’s plucking its fur. A few steps away, water boils in a pot. She plunges the beast into the container. Tonight, the family will eat ragondin stew. Further on, another shack where, in a disorder rivaling the filth, a mother breastfeeds while sitting on the edge of a bed. Then, on the way down, we’ll meet a middle-aged man carrying a large jerrycan of water on his shoulder. Are these people happy here, far from the cities and their stakes? Is it too much to ask that they at least have access to electricity, running water, and decent, safe housing?
Outside the old city, Havana reveals wide avenues serving imposing institutions here and there. But whether in the colorful alleys of the old town or on the majestic and austere Plaza de la Revolución, the same feeling moves me: sadness. Seeing that only chaos has come from ideas crushes me. We praise, we sing the revolution—above all, we impose it in people’s minds as a necessity, when it’s nothing of the sort. Revolution is just the fruit of a few tortured minds who, once in power, do nothing better than all those before them. Enjoy power. Impose their views. It’s just a matter of color. Fidel saw red and knew how to persuade—or silence forever—his many detractors. The West sees everything in white, through the prism of human rights, and also knows how to persuade and silence its slightest detractors forever.
Paradoxically, Cuba survives largely thanks to tourism, a key element—let’s not be afraid to say it—of capitalism. And when a few players pick up the crumbs from transactions, the lion’s share and the foreign currency go to the government. So we won’t go to Varadero, the high place of relaxation overrun by Canadians. Instead, we’ll limit ourselves to crossing the ocean 30 minutes from the capital, at Santa María del Mar, to get an idea of cheaper tourism and to splash around for a few minutes in turquoise water invaded by sargassum. At the heart of the tourist season, we’ll meet few people. Like Havana, and according to its inhabitants, the high season is rather dead. But we won’t have come for nothing: we particularly love this return where, feverish, the taxi driver pushes his Moskvitch 2140 to the max on the highway, singing karaoke versions of hits at the top of his lungs from an onboard DVD player. East/West, the culture clash with a hint of Latino.
It’s time to leave this country of resourcefulness where extremes are very present. We’re leaving a 5-star hotel in front of yet another crumbling building. We’ve known restaurants at 40,000 pesos while in the street people eat for 400. We’ve seen those countless cars from another era and another culture—Pontiac, Lada, Chevrolet, Moskvitch—being overtaken by gleaming Mercedes and other Porsche Cayennes, the prerogative—if it still needed to be demonstrated—of the newly rich in search of recognition. Boarding the plane, we also understand that we’re not just traveling with tourists: there’s undoubtedly a rich and prosperous diaspora, just as there are relatively wealthy Cubans—well, wealthy enough to travel comfortably in the front of the aircraft. Meanwhile, on all the country’s roads, other Cubans try hitchhiking, their wives and children perched on a suitcase by the roadside. The father holds out his arm and holds a few bills in his hand like a card game. Where are they going? Who will pick them up?
Behind me, the gold of the Capitol. I’m told this gold comes from Russia. Like Marx and Lenin’s smoky theories? Like Stalin’s subtle and delicate paternalism? Let’s bet that, like the other buildings crumbling around it, the Capitol will also collapse one day, to avenge the Indians who perished from the diseases and guns of the whites, to avenge the Africans who obliterated their lives so Europeans could enjoy themselves, finally, to avenge all this abandoned people, left to the arbitrariness of democratic or non-democratic elections.
A sign in the street: We understand history. This is the revolution! We understand history. That’s the revolution.
No comment.
What to see and do in Bilbao for a week?
Hi there,
Can you share your experiences about Bilbao with us? We're planning to go during the last week of April, with our main goal being to visit the Guggenheim Museum. Despite our research, we're not sure if a week is too long or what there really is to see and do in Bilbao. Should we rent a car to explore the surrounding areas? For San Sebastián, it seems there are pretty convenient buses. Would a day trip there and back be doable?
Any advice would be welcome regarding the itinerary, local transportation, hotels, and how long to stay.
Thanks in advance!
Maevita
My Cuba trip experience
Hi everyone.
Here’s my personal account (just my own opinion, of course):
My trip lasted 2 months (January to March 2025). Backpacking, solo, and on a very tight budget (15 € per day on average). I traveled from Havana to: Viñales, Santa Marta/Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Camagüey, Bayamo, Santiago de Cuba, Guantánamo, Baracoa, Moa, Holguín, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and back to Havana.
In Cuba, if you stay in *casas particulares*, you’ll have plenty of options. They’re everywhere. When I did door-to-door, I negotiated prices based on my small budget. Not always accepted, but I still managed to find families willing to host me. The island has fewer and fewer tourists each year, so many now prefer to rent a room at a low price rather than leave it empty. Inflation is insane, and Cubans struggle to get by day to day.
Door-to-door works really well (look for the blue logo of a roof on the house, which means it’s licensed to rent to foreigners)—you’ll see them everywhere. If it makes you feel more secure, you can also book through Airb’n’b, but you won’t be able to negotiate there. Important: make sure to get a VPN subscription on your phone, otherwise you won’t be able to book anything (since Airbnb is a U.S. site).
Now, for the West:
- Viñales: very pretty but *super* touristy! So, food prices are a bit high… but it’s the cheapest place to stay I found in the whole country (3 €-4 per night!!!), because there’s so much competition with *casas* (you’ll find them on every street!).
- Cienfuegos: a human-scale city, I really liked it because it’s so peaceful. Waterfront, pretty square, good prices, wide and well-lit streets—very pleasant…
- Trinidad: very expensive and very touristy. Pretty (cobblestone streets, historic center, natural surroundings), but packed with people…
- Havana: easy to find cheap accommodation if you look in Chinatown. However, you shouldn’t mind the noise and street prostitution (getting approached every 10 meters)… Central Havana is the only well-maintained and upscale part of the city (so very expensive, for tourists with money). Outside of that, everything is run-down, in ruins, or very poor (and cheap as a result).
- Varadero: no interest at all. Very expensive, superficial, and ultra-touristy. Absolutely nothing Cuban about the place. If you still want to go, stay 3 km before in Santa Marta—it’s cheaper, and you can easily walk there.
- Santa Clara: a very pretty small city with its central square. Hard to find a good place to eat with electricity—if you can afford it, go to *El Sol* restaurant, no hesitation! Great welcome and a charming spot to enjoy a meal. For accommodation, I recommend a wonderful person, Juan Carlos. *Casa San Lorenzo* on Calle Martí! Always attentive, a great spirit, and good advice…
For the Center:
- Sancti Spíritus: nothing special… just a stopover city.
- Camagüey: a nice city with welcoming people (like everywhere else), but nothing particularly noteworthy.
For the Southeast:
- Bayamo: very small, nothing special.
- Santiago de Cuba: I loved it! It felt like San Francisco with its hilly layout! Lots of street life, musicians, affordable *casas*, easy to make friendly connections, quiet spots by the water, and lively areas downtown (despite the downside of being approached every 2 minutes). And always, a warm welcome from locals (shoutout to the adorable Erika, Souleydis, and her partner—I’m giving a shoutout to *Casa San Pedro* on Calle Princesa!).
- Guantánamo: no interest. Hard to find accommodation or even food. Nothing special and not very pretty either…
- Baracoa: very pretty, though! Kept in its own juice, very typical, authentic, a peaceful waterfront, and stunning natural surroundings… Easy to find cheap accommodation.
- Moa: the only small town where I stayed 3 days and couldn’t find bottled water… Not much interest, except to rest before hitting the road again.
- Holguín: one of the cities I loved! I stayed over 10 days. Human-scale, lots of places to stay and sleep. No one bothers you in the street (except money changers). It’s a great place to live, and the people are very friendly.
Overall positives: no need to worry—Cuba is ultra-safe, no aggression, no risks. Cubans are very welcoming, smiling, and always ready to help. Public transport everywhere—buses, trucks, *collectivos*, *taxi wha-wha*… The ice cream is to die for (just watch out for power outages and freezers). Great breakfasts in *casas*—hearty and delicious… Movie theaters are practically free (in Cuban pesos), so cheap it’d be a shame to skip them (they’re often empty, by the way). Chess clubs in every city, open to everyone and free (they’re really good!). The general vibe is warm and joyful despite the hardships…
Overall negatives: lots of scams, theft, and prostitution. Except in Havana, the rest of the island has no electricity for most of the day. Hard to find good cheap food (without going to big restaurants or hotels). Often mediocre: pasta or pizza usually have no taste. Paranoia among many people who fear crime, even though the country is very safe… Inflation is so bad that many Cubans struggle to eat or get healthcare (medicine is rare and expensive).
That’s a lot to say, but that’s the gist of it… 😊
Here’s my personal account (just my own opinion, of course):
My trip lasted 2 months (January to March 2025). Backpacking, solo, and on a very tight budget (15 € per day on average). I traveled from Havana to: Viñales, Santa Marta/Varadero, Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sancti Spíritus, Camagüey, Bayamo, Santiago de Cuba, Guantánamo, Baracoa, Moa, Holguín, Santa Clara, Cienfuegos, and back to Havana.
In Cuba, if you stay in *casas particulares*, you’ll have plenty of options. They’re everywhere. When I did door-to-door, I negotiated prices based on my small budget. Not always accepted, but I still managed to find families willing to host me. The island has fewer and fewer tourists each year, so many now prefer to rent a room at a low price rather than leave it empty. Inflation is insane, and Cubans struggle to get by day to day.
Door-to-door works really well (look for the blue logo of a roof on the house, which means it’s licensed to rent to foreigners)—you’ll see them everywhere. If it makes you feel more secure, you can also book through Airb’n’b, but you won’t be able to negotiate there. Important: make sure to get a VPN subscription on your phone, otherwise you won’t be able to book anything (since Airbnb is a U.S. site).
Now, for the West:
- Viñales: very pretty but *super* touristy! So, food prices are a bit high… but it’s the cheapest place to stay I found in the whole country (3 €-4 per night!!!), because there’s so much competition with *casas* (you’ll find them on every street!).
- Cienfuegos: a human-scale city, I really liked it because it’s so peaceful. Waterfront, pretty square, good prices, wide and well-lit streets—very pleasant…
- Trinidad: very expensive and very touristy. Pretty (cobblestone streets, historic center, natural surroundings), but packed with people…
- Havana: easy to find cheap accommodation if you look in Chinatown. However, you shouldn’t mind the noise and street prostitution (getting approached every 10 meters)… Central Havana is the only well-maintained and upscale part of the city (so very expensive, for tourists with money). Outside of that, everything is run-down, in ruins, or very poor (and cheap as a result).
- Varadero: no interest at all. Very expensive, superficial, and ultra-touristy. Absolutely nothing Cuban about the place. If you still want to go, stay 3 km before in Santa Marta—it’s cheaper, and you can easily walk there.
- Santa Clara: a very pretty small city with its central square. Hard to find a good place to eat with electricity—if you can afford it, go to *El Sol* restaurant, no hesitation! Great welcome and a charming spot to enjoy a meal. For accommodation, I recommend a wonderful person, Juan Carlos. *Casa San Lorenzo* on Calle Martí! Always attentive, a great spirit, and good advice…
For the Center:
- Sancti Spíritus: nothing special… just a stopover city.
- Camagüey: a nice city with welcoming people (like everywhere else), but nothing particularly noteworthy.
For the Southeast:
- Bayamo: very small, nothing special.
- Santiago de Cuba: I loved it! It felt like San Francisco with its hilly layout! Lots of street life, musicians, affordable *casas*, easy to make friendly connections, quiet spots by the water, and lively areas downtown (despite the downside of being approached every 2 minutes). And always, a warm welcome from locals (shoutout to the adorable Erika, Souleydis, and her partner—I’m giving a shoutout to *Casa San Pedro* on Calle Princesa!).
- Guantánamo: no interest. Hard to find accommodation or even food. Nothing special and not very pretty either…
- Baracoa: very pretty, though! Kept in its own juice, very typical, authentic, a peaceful waterfront, and stunning natural surroundings… Easy to find cheap accommodation.
- Moa: the only small town where I stayed 3 days and couldn’t find bottled water… Not much interest, except to rest before hitting the road again.
- Holguín: one of the cities I loved! I stayed over 10 days. Human-scale, lots of places to stay and sleep. No one bothers you in the street (except money changers). It’s a great place to live, and the people are very friendly.
Overall positives: no need to worry—Cuba is ultra-safe, no aggression, no risks. Cubans are very welcoming, smiling, and always ready to help. Public transport everywhere—buses, trucks, *collectivos*, *taxi wha-wha*… The ice cream is to die for (just watch out for power outages and freezers). Great breakfasts in *casas*—hearty and delicious… Movie theaters are practically free (in Cuban pesos), so cheap it’d be a shame to skip them (they’re often empty, by the way). Chess clubs in every city, open to everyone and free (they’re really good!). The general vibe is warm and joyful despite the hardships…
Overall negatives: lots of scams, theft, and prostitution. Except in Havana, the rest of the island has no electricity for most of the day. Hard to find good cheap food (without going to big restaurants or hotels). Often mediocre: pasta or pizza usually have no taste. Paranoia among many people who fear crime, even though the country is very safe… Inflation is so bad that many Cubans struggle to eat or get healthcare (medicine is rare and expensive).
That’s a lot to say, but that’s the gist of it… 😊
Kattegat Tour and Norway’s Majestic Fjords – 32 Days (Denmark, Sweden, Norway)
Kattegat isn’t just the name of the village in the TV series *Vikings*—it’s also the stretch of water separating Denmark from Sweden... the sea, basically! And further north, you’ve got Norway and its fjords!
Originally, I’d planned to just do a loop around Kattegat, with the *Under* restaurant in Lindesnes as our anniversary treat... but along the way, we thought, why not "push" a little further north, keeping an eye on the budget since we’d chosen to travel by car in June 2025 through Scandinavia.

Why by car when most travelers opt for a camper van, while others prefer the comfort of cruises? Well, because we don’t own a camper van, renting one is pricey, and then you’ve got to add fuel costs (those things guzzle gas!), ferry fees, and other "tolls." All things considered, we went for mostly rentals—especially since there were four of us at the start of the trip. We spent the first week in Denmark with our daughter and son-in-law. Then they flew back to Belgium, and we continued our adventure as a couple. For accommodation, we mainly booked Airbnb apartments, which helped keep costs down and, most importantly, let us prepare our own meals (diet, diet!). In this travel journal, you’ll discover (or rediscover, for those who followed my older ones) our unbridled love for theme parks, museums, unique experiences, and—especially in Denmark—Legos! Unfortunately, we didn’t do any hikes this year because the unpredictable weather had made the trails slippery, and since I’d already taken three tumbles during the trip, I didn’t want to risk another! In the end, we traveled for 32 days, covered 6,200 km, and most importantly, discovered the charming country of Denmark, marveled at Norway’s breathtaking fjords—all without suffering the heatwave that hit France and Belgium that June! If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Why by car when most travelers opt for a camper van, while others prefer the comfort of cruises? Well, because we don’t own a camper van, renting one is pricey, and then you’ve got to add fuel costs (those things guzzle gas!), ferry fees, and other "tolls." All things considered, we went for mostly rentals—especially since there were four of us at the start of the trip. We spent the first week in Denmark with our daughter and son-in-law. Then they flew back to Belgium, and we continued our adventure as a couple. For accommodation, we mainly booked Airbnb apartments, which helped keep costs down and, most importantly, let us prepare our own meals (diet, diet!). In this travel journal, you’ll discover (or rediscover, for those who followed my older ones) our unbridled love for theme parks, museums, unique experiences, and—especially in Denmark—Legos! Unfortunately, we didn’t do any hikes this year because the unpredictable weather had made the trails slippery, and since I’d already taken three tumbles during the trip, I didn’t want to risk another! In the end, we traveled for 32 days, covered 6,200 km, and most importantly, discovered the charming country of Denmark, marveled at Norway’s breathtaking fjords—all without suffering the heatwave that hit France and Belgium that June! If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate to ask!

Texas, Louisiana, and a Touch of Florida
After five trips to the American West, we had planned to switch countries and continents to visit Turkey. However, by the time we made up our minds, flight ticket prices had nearly doubled, reaching 400 € for a round-trip ticket. A bit disappointed, I started looking at transatlantic flight prices and stumbled upon discounted tickets from Basel-Mulhouse to Dallas—at the same price as our tickets to Turkey!
No hesitation needed; we bought the five tickets for a total of 1,860 € excluding baggage!
From Fort Worth Airport, we had two options: - Head west on a loop through Texas, New Mexico, and southern Colorado - Head east to change the scenery and explore East Texas, Louisiana, with a possible detour into Florida.
The latter option won unanimously, so here we are, off to discover new states, mainly Louisiana and Texas.
One of the main post-COVID challenges is finding a reasonably priced car rental. After an initial booking around 1,300 €, we kept an eye on prices a few weeks before departure and managed to snag a better deal at around 900 € for a comfortable sedan.
Yes, this summer will also be a first: no 4x4, no camping, and plenty of restaurants!
As always, I’ve planned a packed itinerary, ready to adjust on the go. A few weeks before departure, we learned we’d be at full capacity—our eldest son, Maxime, got his first-year med school results. By finishing as a top admit, he avoided the mandatory July-August internship that would’ve kept him from joining us. Instead, he wrapped up his internship at the last minute the night before our big departure.
We’ll get to savor these special moments together.
The itinerary: Day 1 - 07/15: Fort Worth Day 2: Dallas Day 3: Jefferson - Caddo Lake Day 4: Black Bayou Lake - Natchez - Stanton Hall and Rosalie Mansion Day 5: St. Francisville - Rosedown Plantation - Cat Island Wildlife Refuge Day 6: Mobile - USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park Day 7 - 8: Pensacola Beach Day 9: Bellingrath Gardens - New Orleans Day 10 - 11: New Orleans Day 12: Plantation Route Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin Day 14: Baton Rouge - USS Kidd Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour Day 16: Galveston, Texas Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches Day 18: San Antonio Day 19: Texas Hill Country Day 20: Texas Hill Country and evening in San Antonio Day 21: Austin and Waco
Day 0 - 07/14: The departure timing isn’t exactly relaxing. On Thursday late afternoon, we hit the road to Alsace, aiming to drop off our two cockers with family before reaching the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour power nap. Not exactly fresh, we arrive at the terminal looking for a British Airways counter. None in sight, so we try our luck at a United Airlines counter—who knows, maybe it’ll work out. And bingo! The agent checks us in. We didn’t quite understand why, but maybe there’s some agreement between airlines. For the first time, we’re traveling without checked baggage, so no extra fees. Not a huge feat, given the scorching temperatures awaiting us!
The connecting flight to London goes smoothly.
During the layover, liquid checks get stricter—now requiring small bottles to be in a pre-approved clear bag, with only one bag allowed per passenger. Normally, no big deal, but between deodorant, sunscreen, after-sun lotion, hand sanitizer, contact lens solution, etc., we spend 20 minutes optimizing the arrangement! When we finally succeed, one of the security staff bursts out laughing and congratulates us!
With our stomachs growling, we grab an American breakfast before browsing the airport shops.
We then discover our plane for the long-haul flight and are thrilled to see it’s an A380—a first for Laetitia, though the rest of the family experienced it during our winter getaway. Still just as impressive!
With a hint of uncertainty, we take off for the States—my third trip in barely 12 months. This time, no endless badlands, canyons, slot canyons, hoodoos, or brain rocks, but a journey through five states (Texas, Louisiana, a quick stop in Mississippi, Alabama, and the northwest tip of Florida), where we hope to soak up a unique vibe... with a packed schedule of diverse visits.
Arrival at Fort Worth Airport and customs go smoothly. Since we have no checked baggage, we’re first in line at the Dollar counter. In just 3 minutes, the formalities are done. We decline the Toll Pass, which I don’t think we’ll need based on my "calculations," and head to the Dollar parking lot, where an employee tells us we can pick any car we want!
There are about thirty cars waiting. Too many choices!
After last year’s mishap in Oakland, where our 4x4’s trunk was broken into, we’re looking for a sedan to hide our luggage this time. Unfortunately, there are none—only SUVs. We finally settle on a comfortable 7-seater Ford SUV with a massive trunk when set up for five.
On the road from Fort Worth to Dallas, we accidentally take a toll highway without realizing until it’s too late to exit. Let’s hope Dollar doesn’t charge us a week’s worth of their pricey Toll Pass for a $2 toll. We’ll see... In the meantime, Maxime sets up Google Maps to avoid toll roads.
Since it’s not too late, we stop by the nearest Walmart for groceries before checking into our hotel room for three nights in East Dallas suburb.
No hesitation needed; we bought the five tickets for a total of 1,860 € excluding baggage!
From Fort Worth Airport, we had two options: - Head west on a loop through Texas, New Mexico, and southern Colorado - Head east to change the scenery and explore East Texas, Louisiana, with a possible detour into Florida.
The latter option won unanimously, so here we are, off to discover new states, mainly Louisiana and Texas.
One of the main post-COVID challenges is finding a reasonably priced car rental. After an initial booking around 1,300 €, we kept an eye on prices a few weeks before departure and managed to snag a better deal at around 900 € for a comfortable sedan.
Yes, this summer will also be a first: no 4x4, no camping, and plenty of restaurants!
As always, I’ve planned a packed itinerary, ready to adjust on the go. A few weeks before departure, we learned we’d be at full capacity—our eldest son, Maxime, got his first-year med school results. By finishing as a top admit, he avoided the mandatory July-August internship that would’ve kept him from joining us. Instead, he wrapped up his internship at the last minute the night before our big departure.
We’ll get to savor these special moments together.
The itinerary: Day 1 - 07/15: Fort Worth Day 2: Dallas Day 3: Jefferson - Caddo Lake Day 4: Black Bayou Lake - Natchez - Stanton Hall and Rosalie Mansion Day 5: St. Francisville - Rosedown Plantation - Cat Island Wildlife Refuge Day 6: Mobile - USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park Day 7 - 8: Pensacola Beach Day 9: Bellingrath Gardens - New Orleans Day 10 - 11: New Orleans Day 12: Plantation Route Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin Day 14: Baton Rouge - USS Kidd Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour Day 16: Galveston, Texas Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches Day 18: San Antonio Day 19: Texas Hill Country Day 20: Texas Hill Country and evening in San Antonio Day 21: Austin and Waco
Day 0 - 07/14: The departure timing isn’t exactly relaxing. On Thursday late afternoon, we hit the road to Alsace, aiming to drop off our two cockers with family before reaching the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour power nap. Not exactly fresh, we arrive at the terminal looking for a British Airways counter. None in sight, so we try our luck at a United Airlines counter—who knows, maybe it’ll work out. And bingo! The agent checks us in. We didn’t quite understand why, but maybe there’s some agreement between airlines. For the first time, we’re traveling without checked baggage, so no extra fees. Not a huge feat, given the scorching temperatures awaiting us!
The connecting flight to London goes smoothly.
During the layover, liquid checks get stricter—now requiring small bottles to be in a pre-approved clear bag, with only one bag allowed per passenger. Normally, no big deal, but between deodorant, sunscreen, after-sun lotion, hand sanitizer, contact lens solution, etc., we spend 20 minutes optimizing the arrangement! When we finally succeed, one of the security staff bursts out laughing and congratulates us!
With our stomachs growling, we grab an American breakfast before browsing the airport shops.
We then discover our plane for the long-haul flight and are thrilled to see it’s an A380—a first for Laetitia, though the rest of the family experienced it during our winter getaway. Still just as impressive!
With a hint of uncertainty, we take off for the States—my third trip in barely 12 months. This time, no endless badlands, canyons, slot canyons, hoodoos, or brain rocks, but a journey through five states (Texas, Louisiana, a quick stop in Mississippi, Alabama, and the northwest tip of Florida), where we hope to soak up a unique vibe... with a packed schedule of diverse visits.
Arrival at Fort Worth Airport and customs go smoothly. Since we have no checked baggage, we’re first in line at the Dollar counter. In just 3 minutes, the formalities are done. We decline the Toll Pass, which I don’t think we’ll need based on my "calculations," and head to the Dollar parking lot, where an employee tells us we can pick any car we want!
There are about thirty cars waiting. Too many choices!
After last year’s mishap in Oakland, where our 4x4’s trunk was broken into, we’re looking for a sedan to hide our luggage this time. Unfortunately, there are none—only SUVs. We finally settle on a comfortable 7-seater Ford SUV with a massive trunk when set up for five.
On the road from Fort Worth to Dallas, we accidentally take a toll highway without realizing until it’s too late to exit. Let’s hope Dollar doesn’t charge us a week’s worth of their pricey Toll Pass for a $2 toll. We’ll see... In the meantime, Maxime sets up Google Maps to avoid toll roads.
Since it’s not too late, we stop by the nearest Walmart for groceries before checking into our hotel room for three nights in East Dallas suburb.
Back from 3 weeks in Guatemala – self-drive trip
Hi everyone.
I wanted to share a little feedback from our trip to Guatemala—we got back a month ago, and I really appreciated the well-commented posts here that helped us out. So, in turn, I wanted to share our own little recap.
We’ve traveled quite a bit together (we’re 38 and 42), and Guatemala had been on our radar for a while. But with so much info out there, it was hard to sort through it all—especially since we only had 3 weeks on the ground and didn’t want to waste time.
Here’s the itinerary we followed: Antigua, the Pacific coast, Lake Atitlán, a private coffee and bird reserve, Chichicastenango, Sayaxché, El Remate, Río Dulce, and Lake Izabal.
We rented a 4x4, which was essential given the state of some roads.
Our highlights: * **Pacific coast**: So authentic and preserved. We met sea turtles, cooked and baked coconut bread with a women’s community—such a meaningful exchange—and kayaked through a pristine mangrove full of birds. * **Lake Atitlán**: Even though we were worried it might feel too touristy, a private tour let us discover local crafts, hidden workshops (weaving, pottery), and the stunning views from the boat. * **Sayaxché**: The starting point for the Aguateca and Dos Pilas sites—one of our favorite outings. The site is breathtaking: walking through the canyon and jungle-covered ruins with almost no one around. We stayed in a little bungalow on an island, totally off the grid. * **In Petén**, we met an Itza Maya tribe—an unforgettable day sharing a meal and plant-based healing rituals. Wow. This tribe resisted the conquistadors and still lives traditionally. We also took a tour on Lake Petén and swam at hidden little beaches. Tikal was nice, but we preferred Yaxhá. * **Río Dulce**: A day at a private cocoa plantation—an adventure in a buggy with the owner himself. We harvested cocoa and ate the chocolate paste afterward, then swam in a waterfall on the property. Since it’s private, there was no one else around. A real privilege. * **Boat tour on the Río Dulce**: For us, the highlight. We visited a school where they’re committed to giving kids a solid education while blending Maya rituals. * **Lake Izabal**: A peaceful end to the trip in a magical setting. We visited Quiriguá.
We went through an organizer who knows the country really well. We weren’t initially planning on that, but thanks to her, we had experiences we never would’ve found on our own. On top of that, we actually paid less for the trip overall because of her local rates. I’m not getting anything out of this—I just think it could help other travelers. Her business is Secretplaceincostarica (she also does Costa Rica, which we’re now eager to explore).
On the ground, we felt completely safe. The people are lovely, the roads can be a little chaotic at times, but we loved every minute of it.
Happy travels to all! Marie
I wanted to share a little feedback from our trip to Guatemala—we got back a month ago, and I really appreciated the well-commented posts here that helped us out. So, in turn, I wanted to share our own little recap.
We’ve traveled quite a bit together (we’re 38 and 42), and Guatemala had been on our radar for a while. But with so much info out there, it was hard to sort through it all—especially since we only had 3 weeks on the ground and didn’t want to waste time.
Here’s the itinerary we followed: Antigua, the Pacific coast, Lake Atitlán, a private coffee and bird reserve, Chichicastenango, Sayaxché, El Remate, Río Dulce, and Lake Izabal.
We rented a 4x4, which was essential given the state of some roads.
Our highlights: * **Pacific coast**: So authentic and preserved. We met sea turtles, cooked and baked coconut bread with a women’s community—such a meaningful exchange—and kayaked through a pristine mangrove full of birds. * **Lake Atitlán**: Even though we were worried it might feel too touristy, a private tour let us discover local crafts, hidden workshops (weaving, pottery), and the stunning views from the boat. * **Sayaxché**: The starting point for the Aguateca and Dos Pilas sites—one of our favorite outings. The site is breathtaking: walking through the canyon and jungle-covered ruins with almost no one around. We stayed in a little bungalow on an island, totally off the grid. * **In Petén**, we met an Itza Maya tribe—an unforgettable day sharing a meal and plant-based healing rituals. Wow. This tribe resisted the conquistadors and still lives traditionally. We also took a tour on Lake Petén and swam at hidden little beaches. Tikal was nice, but we preferred Yaxhá. * **Río Dulce**: A day at a private cocoa plantation—an adventure in a buggy with the owner himself. We harvested cocoa and ate the chocolate paste afterward, then swam in a waterfall on the property. Since it’s private, there was no one else around. A real privilege. * **Boat tour on the Río Dulce**: For us, the highlight. We visited a school where they’re committed to giving kids a solid education while blending Maya rituals. * **Lake Izabal**: A peaceful end to the trip in a magical setting. We visited Quiriguá.
We went through an organizer who knows the country really well. We weren’t initially planning on that, but thanks to her, we had experiences we never would’ve found on our own. On top of that, we actually paid less for the trip overall because of her local rates. I’m not getting anything out of this—I just think it could help other travelers. Her business is Secretplaceincostarica (she also does Costa Rica, which we’re now eager to explore).
On the ground, we felt completely safe. The people are lovely, the roads can be a little chaotic at times, but we loved every minute of it.
Happy travels to all! Marie
République Dominicaine: au fil de la route... et autres souvenirs English translation pending

Ce sont mes derniers souvenirs de voyage à l'étranger, c'était avant … avant que la pandémie de la Covid-19 ne s'abatte sur notre planète et contrarie (en autre !) nos désirs de voyages loin de chez nous. Un récit à propos d'une dernière escale dans les Caraïbes, elle date du début mars et c'était donc en République Dominicaine. Ce carnet aborde principalement le souvenir d'une échappée le long d'une « route » hors des sentiers battus, dans le nord de l'île. Une région bien moins fréquentée et donc moins connue que les très courus sites balnéaires de cette grande île tropicale. Un récit qui est également l'occasion pour moi de partager dans une seconde partie quelques autres souvenirs de voyage en Rep. Dom. Ils sont un peu plus anciens et concernent quelques uns des incontournables sites à visiter de la destination.
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L'escale approche. Peu à peu, la côte se fait plus nette, le soleil a fait disparaître la nébulosité et la plage d'Amber Cove apparaît dans toute sa beauté.

Le trio qui fait le charme des îles tropicales est bien présent sous nos yeux : des eaux bleues, du sable clair bordé d'une palmeraie et un versant verdoyant qui en impose en surplomb du rivage. Un coquet clocher aux tonalités jaune et rose bonbon émerge au-dessus de cette étendue de palmes. Pour afficher la nationalité de l'île, les couleurs sont hissées haut. On reconnaît les carrés rouge et bleu séparés d'une croix blanche du drapeau de la République Dominicaine.

Nous sommes précisément sur la côte nord de l'île, dans la région de l'ancienne ville coloniale espagnole de Puerto Plata.
Un dernier coup d’œil sur la jolie baie encadrée de promontoires rocheux en fond de décor et bordée d'une langue de terre au vert lumineux qui défile juste sous nos yeux.

A peine débarqués du navire, on embarque à nouveau … mais sur un tout autre moyen de transport, finie la navigation, on prend place maintenant sur un drôle de véhicule hybride. Un genre de machine à grosses roues, dans un style intermédiaire entre camion et bus d'aventures tout-terrain. De simples banquettes font offices de sièges, quant aux dossiers et aux montants métalliques, ils sont tous rembourrés et capitonnés … On le comprend vite, la route, enfin la piste qui s'annonce pour cette virée risque d'être chaotique. Pas de doute, il ne doit pas s'agir d'un long ruban de bitume très tranquille !
Pour l'instant nous traversons la paisible petite ville de Maimon. Une agglomération sans grand intérêt si ce n'est d'avoir un aperçu de la vie quotidienne locale. Des enfants bruyants jouent dans la cour de l'école et quelques habitantes font leurs achats dans les boutiques, la plupart sont de simples maisons/cases comme d'ailleurs beaucoup d'habitations. En voici deux exemples assez représentatifs du style de l'habitat local. Une simple maison recouverte de tôles ondulées mais dont les murs extérieurs sont agrémentés d'une teinte bleutée. C'est un aspect des plus courants dans la petite cité.


Plus loin, nous passons devant une maison un peu plus cossue : un propret jardinet et des grilles ouvragées entourent cette demeure plus élaborée et dont on imagine le meilleur confort intérieur.

Passons la périphérie urbaine, place à la campagne. On le constate dès le début du trajet, les terrains aux abords de la voie sont détrempés voire inondés. Le chauffeur, sympa, nous informe que de récentes et fortes intempéries ont quelque peu endommagé la piste que nous devons emprunter … Au fond de cette baie, le courant et les torrents ont charrié des quantités de branchages, certains sont encore là, amassés au bord du rivage bordé de mangrove.


Sur ce tronçon, un torrent a emporté une partie de la route, le passage se fait désormais sur une seule voie constituée de terre battue.

Questions pour un road trip au Colorado English translation pending
Bonsoir 🙂
Je suis arrivée à J 7 de ma préparation pour notre Road trip de septembre .J’ai quelques questions pour lesquelles je n’ai pas pu obtenir d’infos ( aïe aïe aïe mon anglais !!) Je vous les soumets pour avoir votre avis
Guffey : j’ai cru comprendre que la Rocky Mountain Wildlife foundation était fermée (loups )et est ce que les gorges de Paradise Cove valent l’arrêt ?
Twin Lakes : aller vers le Nord pour les voir nous fera faire un détour d’environ de 80 km. Est ce que ça vaut le détour sachant qu’on ne pourra pas aller jusqu’à Indépendance pass car après nous dormons à Salida (au Sud) . Est qu’il y a une petite marche à faire sur place ou c’est uniquement pour des photos ?
Saint Elmo : qui a fait les Agnes Vaille Falls ?
Great Sand Dune Overlook : facile ou non et combien de temps
Creede : Bachelor Loop : combien de temps pour faire la boucle ? Piste roulante ou 4x4 recommandé ( nous aurons un SUV) ?
Après notre étape de Lake City nous dormons à Ouray. Lors de ma préparation j’avais prévu de passer par les US 20 et 24. En se penchant sur l’ititinéraire il me semble bien que ce sont des routes très techniques que seuls les 4x4 peuvent emprunter 😕 et il va falloir rejoindre Ouray par le nord et le Curecanti ( Sapinero, Montrose ) avant de redescendre
Pouvez vous me le confirmer ?
Bon, c’est tout pour aujourd’hui !! Merci à ceux qui me répondront
Marcalamar 🙂
Quel trajet de Durango à Moab? English translation pending
Bonjour, pouvez-vous me donner vos points de vue sur le trajet de Durango à Moab?
J'hésite entre 2 trajets:
- Passer par Mesa Verde, Cortez, Monticello (pour randonnée dans les Needles). Donc pour voir Silverton, ce serait un aller-retour au départ de Durango. Avec cette option, j'ai des questions: que faire aux alentours de Silverton hormis la ville elle-même? Dans la journée est-ce pertinent de pousser plus loin que Silverton sachant qu'il faudrait retourner à Durango le soir? Ou serait-il judicieux de dormir à Silverton avant de revenir à Durango? Je ne tiens pas à prendre le train à vapeur car le trajet, même avec aller simple, est bien trop long. Est-ce que le trajet en voiture permet de voir les mêmes paysages?
- Passer par Silverton et Ouray. Mesa Verde serait visité lors d'un aller-retour au départ de Durango. Je ne vois pas les Needles dans ce cas-là (j'ai déjà fait une "visite" express de Canyonlands lors d'un précédent séjour à Moab et manquer Needles cette fois me fait de la peine).
Merci. Je suis ouvert à toutes les idées auxquelles je ne pense pas.
J'hésite entre 2 trajets:
- Passer par Mesa Verde, Cortez, Monticello (pour randonnée dans les Needles). Donc pour voir Silverton, ce serait un aller-retour au départ de Durango. Avec cette option, j'ai des questions: que faire aux alentours de Silverton hormis la ville elle-même? Dans la journée est-ce pertinent de pousser plus loin que Silverton sachant qu'il faudrait retourner à Durango le soir? Ou serait-il judicieux de dormir à Silverton avant de revenir à Durango? Je ne tiens pas à prendre le train à vapeur car le trajet, même avec aller simple, est bien trop long. Est-ce que le trajet en voiture permet de voir les mêmes paysages?
- Passer par Silverton et Ouray. Mesa Verde serait visité lors d'un aller-retour au départ de Durango. Je ne vois pas les Needles dans ce cas-là (j'ai déjà fait une "visite" express de Canyonlands lors d'un précédent séjour à Moab et manquer Needles cette fois me fait de la peine).
Merci. Je suis ouvert à toutes les idées auxquelles je ne pense pas.
Concours photo de mai 2020: "Défilés et Cortèges" English translation pending
Salut à tou(te)s.
Gagnant du concours d'avril 2020 il m'échoit de vous proposer celui de mai 2020 :
En ce mois de mai propice aux défilés, surtout le 1er en temps normal (sans pandémie donc sans distanciation physique), je vous propose le sujet du concours de photo du mois « Défilés et Cortèges » avec les précautions suivantes :
Ce sera celui de participants au défilé en nombre, en extérieur, pour une cause explicite dans l'image proposée (pancarte ou slogan, costumes, décor...). Ce ne sera donc ni la déambulation d'une foule, même bigarrée, ni une file d'attente, mais un cortège de rue qu'il soit religieux, militaire, funéraire, festif, revendicatif, exprimant joie ou peine, colère ou détermination. La foule qui peut l'accompagner ne sera pas l'objet central de la photo mais son complément (prouvant son audience). Voir l'introduction de l'article Défilé sur Wikipédia : On l'aura compris : pas de défilé d'animaux, de chars, ni de roches fracturées : des gens qui se réunissent pour une cause explicite, affichant leurs costumes, leurs uniformes.
Exemples : Cortège du Palio de Sienne (août 2012) :
Fête des vignerons 2019 à Vevey, bout de fanfare :
Fête des saintes patronnes de Santa Fiora (Toscane - juillet 2009). Toutes obédiences des autorités municipales à la fin de la procession :
Participation Chaque participant(e) peut proposer jusqu'à 3 photos, et ce jusqu'au vendredi 22/05 à 20h00, heure de Paris. Chaque photo sera présentée dans un seul message, en indiquant son numéro (1, 2 ou 3). Pensez à ajouter une petite explication, commentaire, localisation, date de prise de vue.
Vote Chaque membre VF peut voter pour les 3 photos qu'il ou elle juge les meilleures selon ses propres critères et en tenant compte du thème.
Les votes se feront du samedi 23/05 au vendredi 29/05 à 20h00, heure de Paris. Les photos choisies seront citées dans l'ordre de préférence : - la 1re photo : 3 points - la 2e : 2 points - la 3e : 1 point
Un seul et unique vote pour 3 photos est accepté par membre.
Conclusion Le vainqueur est l'auteur de la photo ayant reçu le plus de points. Les résultats seront publiés le 30/05. En cas d'égalité, le nombre de premières places prévaudra. Le vainqueur aura l'honneur d'organiser le concours du mois de juin.
Le diaporama est là. La discussion est là
À vous de jouer !
En ce mois de mai propice aux défilés, surtout le 1er en temps normal (sans pandémie donc sans distanciation physique), je vous propose le sujet du concours de photo du mois « Défilés et Cortèges » avec les précautions suivantes :
Ce sera celui de participants au défilé en nombre, en extérieur, pour une cause explicite dans l'image proposée (pancarte ou slogan, costumes, décor...). Ce ne sera donc ni la déambulation d'une foule, même bigarrée, ni une file d'attente, mais un cortège de rue qu'il soit religieux, militaire, funéraire, festif, revendicatif, exprimant joie ou peine, colère ou détermination. La foule qui peut l'accompagner ne sera pas l'objet central de la photo mais son complément (prouvant son audience). Voir l'introduction de l'article Défilé sur Wikipédia : On l'aura compris : pas de défilé d'animaux, de chars, ni de roches fracturées : des gens qui se réunissent pour une cause explicite, affichant leurs costumes, leurs uniformes.
Exemples : Cortège du Palio de Sienne (août 2012) :

Fête des vignerons 2019 à Vevey, bout de fanfare :

Fête des saintes patronnes de Santa Fiora (Toscane - juillet 2009). Toutes obédiences des autorités municipales à la fin de la procession :

Participation Chaque participant(e) peut proposer jusqu'à 3 photos, et ce jusqu'au vendredi 22/05 à 20h00, heure de Paris. Chaque photo sera présentée dans un seul message, en indiquant son numéro (1, 2 ou 3). Pensez à ajouter une petite explication, commentaire, localisation, date de prise de vue.
Vote Chaque membre VF peut voter pour les 3 photos qu'il ou elle juge les meilleures selon ses propres critères et en tenant compte du thème.
Les votes se feront du samedi 23/05 au vendredi 29/05 à 20h00, heure de Paris. Les photos choisies seront citées dans l'ordre de préférence : - la 1re photo : 3 points - la 2e : 2 points - la 3e : 1 point
Un seul et unique vote pour 3 photos est accepté par membre.
Conclusion Le vainqueur est l'auteur de la photo ayant reçu le plus de points. Les résultats seront publiés le 30/05. En cas d'égalité, le nombre de premières places prévaudra. Le vainqueur aura l'honneur d'organiser le concours du mois de juin.
Le diaporama est là. La discussion est là
À vous de jouer !
Séville, Cordoue et Grenade, une bulle arabo-andalouse English translation pending
Bonjour,
En ce temps de confinement, le temps devient texture, palpable , vivant et fécond.
Surgissent des idées, des envies de faire urgemment ce que l'on a toujours repoussé à plus tard.
Donc un petit carnet de voyage sur notre court séjour à Séville, Cordoue et Grenade au mois de Mai 2019.
Séville : Dès notre atterrissage tôt le matin - nous avons eu la chance d'avoir un vol direct de Nice - nous déposons nos affaires à notre appartement AirBNB idéalement situé à côté de la cathédrale.
De là, nous pouvons tout faire à pied. Le 1er matin : le magnifique parque de Maria Luisa et la Plazza de España










L'après midi nous visitons la cathédrale et flânons dans les rues commerçantes autour. Nous avons choisi de découvrir la cathédrale au moment le plus chaud de la journée pour profiter de la fraîcheur intérieure de cette grande bâtisse.
La vue de la ville du haut de la Giralda


Et puis la Calle Castelar et les ruelles adjacentes. On se réserve une soirée flamenco dans le quartier Santa Cruz en soirée.


Des étudiants de l'école des Beaux Arts

Et une bonne gastronomie pour ne pas nous déplaire

Donc un petit carnet de voyage sur notre court séjour à Séville, Cordoue et Grenade au mois de Mai 2019.
Séville : Dès notre atterrissage tôt le matin - nous avons eu la chance d'avoir un vol direct de Nice - nous déposons nos affaires à notre appartement AirBNB idéalement situé à côté de la cathédrale.
De là, nous pouvons tout faire à pied. Le 1er matin : le magnifique parque de Maria Luisa et la Plazza de España










L'après midi nous visitons la cathédrale et flânons dans les rues commerçantes autour. Nous avons choisi de découvrir la cathédrale au moment le plus chaud de la journée pour profiter de la fraîcheur intérieure de cette grande bâtisse.
La vue de la ville du haut de la Giralda


Et puis la Calle Castelar et les ruelles adjacentes. On se réserve une soirée flamenco dans le quartier Santa Cruz en soirée.



Des étudiants de l'école des Beaux Arts


Et une bonne gastronomie pour ne pas nous déplaire

Avis sur itinéraire pour 15 jours au Guatemala-Belize English translation pending
Bonjour a tous je prépare un voyage de 15j au guatemala et au belize
Voila mon idée mais je doute qu elle soit bonne
J aimerais faire
J1 antigua
J2 lago atitlan
J3 un volcan
J4 chichicastenango , De la partir a flores ( en empruntant un bus de nuit si la liaison existe )
J6 j7 profiter de flores et tikal
A j7 un des voyageurs repartirait en avion interne de flores a ciudad pour prendre son avion le lendemain et nous continuerions vers le belize pour flaner la deuxieme semaine et prendre notre a avion a j14 du belize.
Pensez vous que cet itineraire est approprié. Merci de votre aide