Results for "Camargue+|+103+>+209"

Bonjour bonjour,

Je projete de faire une petite traversée de la France en vélo pour l'été prochain, et suis donc à la recherche d'itinéraires.

Or, lors d'un de mes derniers périples, en passant par la voie verte du coté de Cluny en bourgogne, j'avais justement rencontré un Belge flamand qui se faisait une traversée Pyrénées-Belgique en 3 semaines (genre départ de Tarbes, passage par la bourgogne, puis plein nord pour la belgique). Et il tirait son itinéraire complet d'un bouquin écrit par un Hollandais, qui parrait-il est pas mal connu (en Hollande du moins...) pour avoir écrit plusieurs itinéraires comme ça, de plusieurs semaines à travers l'Europe.. Est ce que par hasard quelqu'un connaitrait ces bouquins, et ces itinéraires ??? Sinon, si vous avez entendu parler d'autres itinéraires complets sympa pour se traverser la france (genre Nord-Sud Ouest), je suis evidement preneur...

Merci de l'aide..

Et bicyclettement votre..

Bonjour à tous,

J'aimerais avoir des infos sur des agences de voyage birmane pour visiter ce pays, j'ai entendu parler de l'agence gulliver, qui est à Rangoon je crois, quelqu'un peut-il me renseigner sur ses prestations et tarifs, ainsi que d'autre adresses d'agence. En fait nous aimerions y aller au mois d'août, (on a pas le choix pour les dates) je sais qu'il y a la mousson, mais à l'interieur du pays non, avec une enfant de 8 ans, merci de vos renseignements. Maat.

Bonjour à tous, je me promène comme beaucoup sur le site et ses forums, très bien... ca redonne du tonus et la foi quand on se demande quel genre de vie on va trouver là bas. Ce qui me rassure c'est l'enthousiasme de chacun face aux conseils avisés des guides et sites gouvernementaux. En gros l'Inde pourrait resembler à une grande décharge s'il n'y avait pas vos expériences de voyageurs pour la rendre plus présentable, plus belle aussi. Alors je reste conscient étant donné que c'est mon premier voyage seul, en Inde, sans être un cador en anglais que mes questions et mes angoisses sont légitimes mais pas insurmontables. Bon il faudrait vous expliquer que je compte partir pour plusieurs mois mais j'ai deux problèmes pour l'heure (demain y'en aura d'autres...🤪) : trouver une formule avion qui soit assez souple pour me permettre de partir à date fixe mais avec un retour qui peut soit etre avancé soit reculé, avez vous des conseils à me donner ? mon sac à dos est à remplir mais de quoi sachant qu'il faut voyager léger mais paré aux différentes éventualités pour plusieurs mois... Je pense à la trousse de soins qui pour le moment me semble très grosse. Je ne voudrais pas etre une pharamcie ambulante... Et pour les lingettes bébés si je pars plusieurs mois je ne vais pas partir qu'avec ça... Bref y'a t'il une liste des choses à prendre pour remplir un sac à dos de plusieurs mois ?

Merci à tous pour vos conseils 🙂

bonjour,

mon ami et moi avons réservé depuis longtemps un séjour près de la romana, départ le 25 avril. nous venons d'apprendre que suite aux intempéries de 2004, il y a des cas de paludisme. Nous venons aussi d'apprendre que je suis enceinte et les traitements ne sont pas conseillés du tout en cas de grossesse. Nous ne voulons prendre aucun risque pour le bébé, nous pensons donc à annuler ce voyage. Nous préférons renoncer à de l'argent, plutôt que de mettre en danger ce bébé que nous désirons du fond du coeur. Le problème aujourd'hui c'est le voyage, pas le bébé.

J'aimerais recueillir vos avis si vous revenez du Sud de la RD, ou des témoignages de personnes dans la même situation.

Merci mille fois.

Ce qui reviennent de la RP peuvent-ils me dire s'il y a beaucoup de moustiques ? 😊

Bonjour à tous !

Je cherche un itinéraire sympa à réaliser en France en 1 ou 2 semaines (ou pourquoi pas Europe) en vélo

Je pensais un peu Bretagne ou Massif Central...

Par contre j'aimerais éviter les axes trop fréquentés (surtout que ce serait en haute saison ) et préfère de loin les petites routes de traverses un peu oublié des camping car et autres mastodondes inodorants ...😠

D'autres part j'ai entendu parlé des voix vertes qui serait des sortes de pistes cyclables trans-région mais je n'en sais pas plus ...?

Alors si quelqu'un connait un itinéraire sympas, répondant à mes exigences 😇, je suis preneur ...

Merci pour vos conseils

Marie Gallante.....Est-ce que cette petite ile en marge de la Martinique vaut la peine d'etre visiter.....merci

Bonjour à tous,

Que me suggérez-vous pour passer de l'Alsace à la Provence ? Je cherche un itinéraire intéressant et suis hésitante.

De Paris (quelques jours) - Champagne (Reims et environs, Epernay) - Alsace (de Strasbourg à Colmar, route des vins) - ?? Suisse (Lauzanne, Genève), Franche-Comté pour Besançon ou retour sur Bourgogne pour Dijon et les vins ?? - Annecy (semble très intéressant), Mont-Blanc - Rhones-Alpes (pour Grenoble) - Alpes et Provence (pour presque tout !!)

Votre avis s.v.p.

Je suis attirée surtout par les beaux paysages et les villages typiques. Les villes m'intéressent lorsque les attraits touristiques ne devraient pas être manqués.

Aussi, le Mont Blanc (montés en téléphériques, Aiguille du Midi et Mer de Glace) est-il le meilleur endroit pour savourer une vision époustouflante des Alpes ? Est-ce trop touristique ?

Merci infiniement, Isabelle

Je m'adresse à vous qui ayez de l'expérience en voyage. Ma fille a droit à rêve d'enfant, vous savez les rêves qui réalise pour les enfants malade.

ma fille à la fibrose kistique. Son rêve serait d'aller à un endroit ou la mer est turquoise. Elle aime beaucoup la dance alors un endroit ou elle pourrait voir des spectacles de danse ou simplement voir des gens du pays danser. Veut faire des activités comme catamaran.

auriez-vous s.v.p. des suggestions pour nous.

Merci

voila, aprés un séjour de 3 semaines à bali au mois de septembre prochain, je compte aller 3 semaines dans le nord de l'Inde vers la fin septembre, je me suis donc rendu chez mon médecin pour mettre à jour mon carnet de vaccination, et quand il a su ou j'allais il m'a vivement recommandé de prendre un traitement contre le pallu du nom de : savarine.Qu'en pensez-vous, est-ce indispensable? merci pour vos réponses.

voici un renseignement interressant pour ceux qui ne le sauraient pas, avec la compagnie Thaïair, sur un paris bangkok dempasar par exemple...le stop à bangkok à l'aller ou au retour est gratuit😉

Quelle est le nom d'un pays qui vous emporte le plus. Des qu'on le prononce ou qu'on y pense on se sent voguer et partir dans des pensees "voyageuses" (oula la s'est moi qui part dans des pensees bizares...)!

Pour ma part cela serait sao tome e principe: Cela fait ile deserte decouverte au bout du monde par un navigateur qui s'etait perdu, c'est un nom joyeux, qui me fait rire, bref je reve d'y aller et cela depuis longtemps (j'en parle assez sur VF)!!!!

Et vous?

For those who want to chat quietly by the riverbanks, this is the place!

Hi, I’m not sure if this belongs here. The videos aren’t mine—they’re from a YouTuber.

I find his trip mind-blowing and totally different from what we see on TV!

So far, two 1-hour-12-minute videos have been released, but there’ll be at least one more!

Some French journalists and politicians have been tearing him apart lately. At the same time, the guy put in insane work without any funding...

Personally, I’m really impressed by what he’s done...

Here are the links. Sorry if this feels like an ad, but I genuinely think his trip is great—and most importantly, judgment-free. The only other thing I’d seen from him was his trip to Transnistria.

I Lived 10 Days with the Taliban 🇦🇫

Under Taliban Sharia in Afghanistan 🇦🇫

Hi everyone, Accepting the rules everywhere has become the norm, and customer service keeps getting worse and worse. Who’s to blame? All those who comply without a fuss, even though you’re paying full price everywhere. What used to be normal (good service) has now become the exception. Example: Hotels and their overly strict rules (rules that, personally, I successfully bend almost every time) 😄. We pay for a room for 24 hours, not 12-15 hours. How many times have I arrived at my hotel around noon after exhausting flights, asked for my reserved room, and been told that rooms are only available from 3 or 4 PM? Unacceptable (especially since we often have to check out by 10-11 AM—just as unacceptable). “Miss, I’m really tired from my trip. Could you make a small effort? I’m sure several rooms are ready by now.” The response? “It’s the rule. Come back at 4 PM.” 😒 Of course, I get that the front-desk clerk is just blindly following orders (or overdoing it). I stay calm and ask her to fetch her supervisor (who shows up right away, probably afraid of a scene). I explain with my best "puppy-dog eyes," and—bingo—10 minutes later, I’ve got my room (I’ll spare you the comments from my fellow travelers calling me a rude, uneducated nightmare). I’m thrilled because they’ll be waiting around for 4 hours 😏. It’s the same everywhere—restaurants (especially in France), where you arrive at 9:05 PM and are told they’re no longer serving because the chef has finished and turned off the ovens. (Do you really need an oven and 2 hours to make an English breakfast or a cheese platter with good wine?) And then some restaurant owners complain about not meeting their targets—pfft. The list goes on, and I don’t have all the complaints about service providers fresh in my mind (feel free to add yours if you agree). Otherwise, keep bowing your heads—I won’t change the world, but I’ll never accept being told I’m too demanding. It’s the people who let things slide (the majority) who have no standards left, to the detriment of service quality for everyone 😏.

Hi,

I’m starting this thread after a digression that began in the India section and continued in a travel journal about Kerala.

The original topic was whether India is—or isn’t—a nature destination.

I’ll let you all discuss and share your own definition of a nature destination. 🙂

After about 12 hours of flying from Toulouse (via Paris), we landed in Bogotá six years after our first trip to Colombia. This time, our journey will be very different, with only this stop in the Colombian capital in common. Our travel itinerary Bogotá / La Macarena (Caño Cristales) / Villa de Leyva / Barichara / San Gil / Girón / Mompox / Ciénaga and the Santa Marta lagoon / Minca / Los Naranjos (Tayrona Park) / Bogotá. Step 1: Bogotá (and Nemecon) Bogotá (1/3) This morning, we had a meet-up with Flora from Aventure Colombia, who helped me organize one of our stops, a few transfers, and tomorrow’s day trip, the program of which I changed at the last minute after deciding to skip the visit to the Salt Cathedral of Zipaquirá. Flora is a kind and lovely person, always available, and she did everything to answer my questions and give me advice. She’s a local contact I highly recommend. Flora can help you plan your trip, whether you want a fully organized tour or, like us, just need assistance with a specific stop or one or more transfers between cities. We left Flora after setting a meet-up for our return to Bogotá in a month. As we walked out of her agency, we headed to the wonderful Gold Museum, located just a hundred meters away. I was excited to revisit this amazing museum. Note: Free entry for those over 60, regardless of nationality. Just show your passport. Like six years ago, I was amazed by its museography, the beauty of the pieces on display, and that breathtaking shamanic room.





About two hours later, we decided to walk (careful, it’s a climb!) to the Monserrate cable car (3152m). Long wait to buy tickets and board the cable car! Once we arrived, a few raindrops, an impressive panoramic view of Bogotá’s vastness, a quick visit to the basilica (a pilgrimage site for Colombians), a walk through the tourist market, and at the top, plenty of small restaurants where we had our first Colombian meal. After our hearty lunch, we were lucky to see the sun return! No line for the descent. We then headed back to the hotel because Justine wanted to rest and recover from the trip. As for me, I continued my walk. I discovered a really nice craft market recommended by Flora, Pasaje Rivas, returned to Bolívar Square, and wandered through different streets, including the main pedestrian avenue (Calle 7), where there’s always something to see.



Tomorrow, a change of scenery as we head out for a hike in a small desert (Desierto de Chueca), located about 2 hours from Bogotá in the village of Nemecon. For this outing from Bogotá, with Flora’s help, we booked a car with a driver for the day. Flora also took care of booking the guide (since the site can only be visited with one). Nemecon (2/3) Today, we went to Nemecon to hike about 7.5 km in the ‘Desert of Checua.’ It’s nothing like sandy deserts! Instead, it’s geological formations sculpted by time, wind, and water. After two hours on the road—almost one of them spent navigating traffic jams with cars, trucks, buses, and a continuous flow of motorcycles on either side of our taxi—we reached Nemecon! The village center is really (too?) quiet. We met up with Deisy and headed toward the ‘desert,’ about twenty minutes away on a bumpy dirt road. Once there, a quick briefing, and off we went! Deisy didn’t stop talking (in Spanish) for over 3 hours!!! She told us so much about her region (flower farming, water management, traditions, songs, etc.), the origin of the site, and even mentioned Antonio Banderas, who filmed *The 33* in the village’s salt mine (the story of the survival of 33 Chilean miners after a collapse in their copper and gold mine). One hour of walking to reach the site, one hour to explore it, and one hour to return.





The advantage of this non-stop chatter was that it forced us to brush up on our Spanish at lightning speed. I even wondered if the effort to concentrate wasn’t more exhausting than the physical effort! Especially since on the way back, I got an oral quiz. Deisy wanted to make sure I remembered some of the information she’d given me during the visit: why is this rock white, that one red, and that one black? Back in the village, we had lunch at a restaurant recommended by Deisy before visiting the Nemecon salt mine. Before entering, a guide spent a good half-hour explaining the origin of the salt and the presence of many fossils in the area. Again, concentrating was tough because all the comments were exclusively in Spanish! An hour and a half wandering through the tunnels with a ‘lovely miner’s helmet’ on our heads!







We met our driver at the mine entrance. The return to Bogotá was a bit faster, but traffic in the city center was still heavy! We arrived in front of our hotel between 8:00 and 8:30 PM. It’s been a pretty intense start to the trip! Tonight, our legs are tired. Hopefully, tomorrow will be a bit more relaxed! Bogotá (3/3) We started the day by visiting the Santa Clara Church Museum, located next to the presidential palace. Alejandra (from the local agency ‘Gaia Tours Colombia,’ which organized our stay in Caño Cristales (La Macarena)) had recommended this visit for its rich mural paintings.



A few hundred meters further, after crossing the Plaza Mayor again, we visited the cultural complex housing the Botero Museum, the Mint Museum, and the Bank of the Republic Art Museum. Note that entry is free for all three museums. Botero Museum: There are fewer works by Botero here than in the Medellín museum, but more paintings and sculptures by other artists, all from Botero’s private collection (donated to Colombia). Mint Museum: We limited ourselves to visiting one room (on Flora’s advice) where three gold and gemstone monstrances and a Christ with a crown of emerald thorns are displayed. Photos are not allowed. Art Museum: We visited two temporary exhibitions. Lunchtime came quickly. We had a good meal at a reasonably priced small restaurant in the La Candelaria micro-district, near the Chorro de Quevedo square. We decided to spend the afternoon wandering the streets and alleys of the historic center to discover local street art.



We also passed through very lively pedestrian streets. I also decided to revisit Pasaje Rivas to show Justine all the shops selling more or less artisanal products. Tomorrow morning, we fly to La Macarena at 10:30 AM. Not to dance (you’d be surprised if I told you we were going to take a South American dance class, right?!), but to visit the fabulous Caño Cristales, a river naturally colored by aquatic plants. The planned program includes hiking, horseback riding, canoeing, and swimming among these plants. This site was long inaccessible because the area was controlled by the FARC. Access and tourism development became possible after agreements and amnesty measures between the Colombian government and paramilitary groups. As in other regions, former FARC members have been able to transition into various tourism-related activities.

Hey there,

This is where we chat and share photos outside the contest.

Good night! 😛

Salut!

Je poste car depuis quelques temps j'ai un projet avec un ami. Nous sommes étudiants et nous prenons une année de césure. Notre objectif est de traverser l'Atlantique à la voile et de visiter les pays d'Amérique. Nous voulons donc acheter un bateau, le refaire et l'utiliser. On ferait ainsi pas mal d'économies. Je ne m'y connais pas trop en réparation de bateau mais à 2 nous sommes confiants sur notre capacité à réussir. Je demande sur ce forum car je ne m'y connais pas trop sur les types de navires. Je sais naviguer mais quel type de bateau chercher je ne sais pas trop. Nous ferions de la navigation équatoriale majoritairement et nous cherchons à réduire un max sur le budget (mais en restant safe quand même... On veut pas trop de problème au milieu de l'océan). J'ai entendu dire qu'il faudrait un monocoque qui fait 3 fois la taille de la houle, donc au moins du 9m pour l'Atlantique et que les anciens bateaux (fait par fibre et pas une coque en moule/contremoule) sont des bons partis. Voilà je peux apporter plus d'infos mais je suis un peu perdu sur les navires que je pourrais chercher (j'étais parti sur un FIRST mais je pense qu'on peut faire bien moins cher...) Je suis ouvert à toutes vos précisions/conseils/détails :)

Merci!

Bonjour à tous,

j'aurais dû revenir sur ce forum pour vous poster notre carnet de voyage à New-York en avril, et puis voilà, comme vous tous, nous sommes "cloués" ici, mais heureusement en bonne santé, et c'est bien là le principal !

Du coup nous n'avons pas utilisé nos congés d'avril car fortement mobilisés professionnellement pendant le confinement. Nous avons donc pu profiter d'une semaine de congés la semaine dernière (début juin) pour faire sauter la bulle des 100km et aller découvrir cette belle région du Luberon.

Alors embarquez avec moi, je vous amène au pays de la lavande (mais pas que !)

Bonjour,

Après la Vélodyssée (Aout 2018), le Japon/Okinawa (Aout 2019) et les trails de Nouvelle-Zélande (Décembre 2019) : j'ai le projet de faire un nouveau voyage en cyclotourisme de 12 jours en Aout 2020.

Le hic est que j'hésite entre la ViaRhona et la Meuse à vélo : je recherche donc des retours d'expérience de personnes qui auraient déjà effectué l'une ou l'autre

Mes critères sont assez classiques : des beaux paysages, du soleil (départ prévu le 20/08 donc pas trop de souci à priori) et des parcours roulants : j'adore en effet rouler en suivant un cours d'eau comme j'ai pu le faire sur le canal de Brest (même si certains trouvent ça monotone moi j'adore 😛 !!) mais pas contre je n'aime pas rouler à moins de 25 km/h sinon je m'ennuie (du coup au moins 100 km/jour en général). Je roule en général assez léger avec une seule sacoche Ortlieb sur porte bagage arrière et en vélo gravel Trek crossrip 3 (pas de camping donc, je dors toujours en hotels, auberge, Airbnb)

En bref, je suis preneur de toutes informations qui pourrait m'aider à choisir !!

Cordialement

After several discussions on VF about travel journals from the Philippines, I decided to write this curiosity: a trip report from a journey made in 1984, when traveling to the Philippines was still an adventure.

A curiosity because writing a travel journal about a trip 35 years later isn’t common, but also (mostly?) because exploring the Philippines at that time had little in common with traveling there today.

Obviously, I’ve forgotten a number of facts, most of the details, but with the help of a few notes from that time and a stack of slides (yes, there was life before digital 😊), many memories came back and added to the highlights I’d never forgotten. The scanned slides aren’t always great quality, but there are still quite a few to brighten up this chatter. Back then, we didn’t snap photos like we do now—film was too expensive—so I don’t have pictures of every place we visited... too bad, comparing some of those spots to how they look today would’ve been interesting.

Why "Adventures"? Why call it "Adventures" in the Philippines in 1984, a word so often used for a simple exotic trip? - Because the lack of information (no *Guide du Routard*, no *Lonely Planet*, no *Michelin Guide*, nothing, and obviously no internet) gave this trip what’s at the heart of adventure: the unknown. - Because the political situation made the stay sometimes dangerous. - Because transportation conditions were always epic, often perilous. - Because the question of where we’d spend the night came up almost every evening. - And for... quite a few other reasons.

That said, we weren’t exactly explorers!

Why the Philippines? First of all, why go to the Philippines in 1984—a country not exactly set up for tourism and about which we knew very little? How could we get an idea of the beauty of the Philippines and its points of interest when we had no guides or photos?

The idea came to us from Thailand a year earlier, during our first long-haul trip. After touring the north of the country, we met a Frenchman living in Phuket, where there were only a few tourists in Patong, with just a few small hotels and guesthouses. Kata and Karon had no buildings or roads, Rawai only had three palm-thatched bungalows, including ours, and the other islands were unknown to tourists. There was plenty to discover, and we wanted to return to this beautiful country... but the Frenchman made us dream about the Philippines—a country to explore, with wild landscapes.

Long evenings of discussion over multiple Sprite-Mekong cocktails (what memories of those headaches!) finally convinced us we had to go to the Philippines.

Episode 0: Before Departure The decision was made: we’d go to the Philippines in May 1984. Our friends and family were surprised when we announced we were going on vacation to the Philippines (a bit like saying today we were going paddleboarding in the Kerguelen Islands 🤪).

These days, preparing for each of our trips takes long evenings of research, planning, and noting down good addresses... etc. But for the Philippines in 1984, preparation was quick: we had very little information about the country, we were leaving almost at random, and the discovery would only be more exciting.

We still had a few bits of info gathered here and there: the rice terraces in northern Luzon, volcanoes, Negros where we were supposed to visit an acquaintance, Cebu and its marine life (we ended up going elsewhere), and absolutely avoid Mindanao, which was practically at war with the regime. That was about it, but it was already a great itinerary.

Nothing was organized in advance; we’d see day by day. We had no idea about travel times or even the existence of transportation options. The main (and sometimes only) way to connect two islands was by overloaded, rusty ferry. Only the big cities had airports.

Let’s Go: Episode 1: Paris to Manila My travel journals always start after arriving at the airport—the Europe-to-“Other Continent” trip isn’t interesting—but the flight to the Philippines was already an adventure, so I’ll make an exception.

This was the era when only a few Asian airlines were on par with Western ones: Thai, Singapore Airlines, and Philippine Airlines. They had beautiful, brand-new planes, and to attract customers (almost exclusively “businessmen”) from the usual airlines (Air France, Lufthansa, British Airways), there was opulence on board: unlimited champagne, all sorts of cocktails... Compared to today’s long-haul flights, there was still one small difference: no personal screens, just one screen at the front of the cabin with one mandatory movie. And I don’t know why, but we only got James Bond films, both ways... that must’ve been the trend at the time.

The tourism boom to Southeast Asia hadn’t started yet, and the “Asian Tigers” weren’t a thing, so there weren’t many business trips. That meant long-haul flights made stops everywhere to fill the planes. Our Philippine Airlines Boeing 747 left London, picked us up in Paris, then stopped in Frankfurt to take on a few Germans. I don’t know why we then made a stop in Dubai—a totally exotic place at the time. There was nothing to do there... things have changed a lot since. It was a small town lost in the desert. The airport was tiny, with just one or two buildings and a supermarket. During the stopover, everyone had to get off the plane and walk to the supermarket. Photo and electronic equipment were dirt cheap—I guess that was the only reason for the stop. Maybe it was their first commercial move. Emirates didn’t exist yet, as I checked online, but anyway, the idea that such a remote place could have its own airline was unthinkable.

Online, I found this photo of Dubai Airport in 1980. Anyone who’s transited through today’s massive airport with its rows of A380s will appreciate it:

Next stop: New Delhi to drop off some Europeans and pick up a few Indians, and finally, the terminus: Manila. I don’t remember how long the trip took with its five stops—an unimaginable journey today. Despite all those stops to fill the plane, there was still enough space to stretch out on the four center seats of the 747, something that never happens these days despite all the flights in every direction.

So here we are, finally at Manila Airport around midnight.

Episode 1: Manila and Baguio To start, a quick note on the political and economic situation in the Philippines in 1984, which had consequences for us as tourists, as we’d soon realize upon arrival.

After several centuries of Spanish colonization, the Philippines became American at the start of the 20th century, then independent. In 1966, Marcos took power, and little by little, his regime sank into corruption and mismanagement, becoming a dictatorship with martial law, all for the benefit of his family and friends, who enriched themselves endlessly. The peak was the assassination of opposition leader Benigno Aquino in August 1983, which triggered harshly repressed protests. So we arrived a few months later in a very poor country, with omnipresent corruption and an extremely tense political situation, as we’d soon see for ourselves. Major protests took place in the main cities during our trip—I’ll come back to that. Two years later, Marcos fled to Hawaii after being forced out of power following rigged elections. This historical context explains a lot of the situations we found ourselves in over the following weeks.

Arriving in the middle of the night isn’t very cheerful. Manila was already a huge city with many slums, where you could find a few business hotels like the Hilton or Intercontinental—way out of our budget—and plenty of run-down hotels. Luckily, two Indians we’d chatted with on the plane offered to take us to their usual hotel. They came to Manila twice a year for business. We accepted their offer, relieved not to have to look for a place to stay in the middle of the night, figuring the address must be good since they came back every time... we were wrong 🙁

We left the airport and immediately got a taste of the local vibe when we got into the taxi: the police asked for our passports. We thought: what’s more normal than police in a dictatorship?

But that wasn’t it at all. Our two Indian friends explained that the police were noting our names along with the taxi number and time. Crime in Manila was so bad that the taxi driver would be held responsible if anything happened to us... welcome to the Philippines 😎 😎

Historically, the Philippines was a very violent country, where everything was settled with guns or machetes. Previous governments had banned carrying weapons, but Marcos later allowed the free sale and carrying of guns, and disputes were settled with pistols again (or worse, as we’d discover later). Since he’d released most of the criminals from prison to form a paramilitary militia at his service (I’ll talk about our encounter with these “heroes” later), it was pretty dangerous to go into many parts of Manila, where these “tonton macoutes” ruled.

We arrived at our hotel without incident... and then things started badly. The room was infested with big cockroaches—exactly what I hate most in those kinds of countries. No way to find another hotel at that hour. After the long flight, the urge to take a shower was so strong that we squeezed into the bathroom as best we could. After that, I don’t remember—I guess we must’ve fallen asleep exhausted under the sheets in the heat... air conditioning wasn’t widespread yet.

The next day, we just wanted to leave that dump as soon as possible. So we decided to head north right away, stopping in Baguio, and we’d visit Manila a bit on the way back.

When we stepped outside, we discovered a pretty run-down neighborhood with potholed streets. But we also discovered the jeepneys. They were everywhere, flooding the streets.





They had crazy sound systems, each one blasting louder than the last. The interiors were kitschy but fun. There weren’t many private cars—almost all transportation was by jeepney, with buses reserved for intercity trips.





Before heading to the bus terminal for the north, somewhere on the outskirts of the city, we needed to exchange some money. I don’t remember how we ended up in a policeman’s jeep who offered his services: - Exchange money on the black market at a better rate than the banks. - Take us wherever we wanted, in this case, the bus terminal.

We accepted both offers (we’d still checked the official exchange rate from dollars to pesos). So we found ourselves in his jeep. After exchanging money, we left in his vehicle and stopped for gas. Without turning off the engine, he calmly smoked a cigarette while filling up. Since we were in a jeep with no doors or roof, we were ready to jump out if things went south, our travel bag in hand.

But we weren’t done with surprises yet. Once we left the small streets, we ended up in a neighborhood with wide avenues and not much traffic, which didn’t justify his incredible behavior. At every intersection, he made the sign of the cross, closed his eyes, and crossed without looking. I was more stunned than terrified! It wasn’t until we got out of the car later that I told Anne-Marie what had happened. I’d seen everything because the cop had put me in the front seat. Luckily, A-Marie hadn’t noticed anything from the back. Crossing Manila by trusting God rather than the rules of the road was ultimately effective. We were lucky—the trip was off to a good start. 🙂 🙂

We then passed through a neighborhood where slums stretched on for a while, and we left our policeman—friendly but a bit crazy—with relief.

A few hours by bus later, here we are in Baguio, cool in the mountains. My memories of Baguio are pretty fuzzy. I remember a small town. After some research while writing this journal, I found that the population was 120,000 in 1980. Given the population density in each home, that confirms my memory of a smallish town. Outside the “official” district with the president’s summer residence and government buildings, there were two or three paved streets with nice houses. The rest was very dirty and very poor, with lots of slums and dirt roads.







People we met on the street invited us to stay with them. These days, we wouldn’t just show up at strangers’ houses, which we should’ve done in Baguio—it would’ve saved us from an unimaginable and dangerous situation... which I won’t say anything about... !😊

The simple wooden house was on stilts at the edge of a hill with a view of the mountains. Since it was the start of the rainy season in a city that gets a lot of rain, we saw a lot of water. Our outings in town happened between downpours.

View from our lodging:

Episode 2: Baguio to Bontoc Aside from the situation briefly mentioned above, it was on the next leg to Bontoc that the adventure really began: an endless and dangerous road, a bus from another era, breathtaking landscapes, and surprising people.

We didn’t know the distance or how long it would take to get to Bontoc. When we arrived after about ten hours, we learned that Baguio to Bontoc was 140 km.

We got on a bus with wooden seats and settled in, two to a seat meant for two. As the bus filled up, passengers squeezed in three or four per seat, with chickens and baskets full of all sorts of things in the aisle. A little embarrassed, we didn’t know if we should squeeze in three on our seat. The seats were super tight (luckily, Filipinos are small), and I didn’t know where to put my legs given my height. I don’t remember if we stayed alone on our bench or if we ended up sharing with others.



The “road” was a dirt track (or rather, a mud track) with endless turns. We held on as best we could to our slippery wooden seats—it was shaking in every direction. The woman behind us was carsick and throwing up... gross... but what were we doing there? Then we plunged into the Sierra Madre... just the name is dreamy!

Rice terraces started to appear:



they took up more and more space along cliffs where we weren’t always reassured,



with lots of waterfalls (all that water had to go somewhere).

A few miserable villages stretched along the track, most often just a few houses balancing between the road and the drop. The bus stopped in every village—people got on or off and settled inside or on the roof. Street vendors offered their products to the bus passengers—a common sight in Asia, even today.



We were in another world—villagers were in loincloths, others had spears. The atmosphere was strange... but all good, we wanted exoticism, and we got it:

This so-called traditional outfit was everyday wear—it wasn’t for tourists since there weren’t any.

Bonjour!

Je reprends donc la main en ouvrant un nouveau sujet.

Où est-ce?



Un indice? Je n'ai pas (encore?) fait de carnet sur ce pays....

À vous de jouer!

Après 2 premiers carnets de voyage publiés sur VF consacrés à des régions indonésiennes peu touristiques "La traversée des Célèbes (Sulawesi) en photos" ou même pas du tout touristique "Les Moluques: splendeurs (et galères) d'un archipel inconnu des touristes voici un nouveau récit abondamment illustré sur un voyage au Vietnam.

Même si de nombreux beaux carnets ont déjà été publiés sur le Vietnam, j’espère que ce voyage en images rappellera de bons souvenirs aux uns, fournira des renseignements utiles aux autres pour leur prochain voyage ou plus simplement vous fera passer un bon moment en parcourant ce magnifique pays.

Avant de partir, quelques rapides infos sur le contexte (certaines rubriques seront détaillées plus loin au fil du récit, par ex la météo à cette période) :

- voyage réalisé de mi-septembre à mi-octobre 2019 - onzième voyage en Asie du Sud Est- en couple comme chaque fois, c'est bp plus simple - déplacement en bus, taxi, minibus (limousine) et avion (1 fois) réservés sur place 1 ou 2 jours avant, et en voiture particulière la 1ere semaine - logements : du basique chez l'habitant à un très bel hôtel à Ho Chi Minh, avec une préférence pour les petits hôtels de charme - bp de temps passé sur les forums et les guides avant le départ pour recenser les lieux qui nous intéressent, puis parcours modifié au jour le jour en fc de la météo, des envies, de la fatigue, des rencontres, etc .. Avant le départ, on a une superbe liste de lieux "à voir absolument", et sur place on s'aperçoit que ce magnifique programme est bien trop ambitieux. On supprime alors tel ou tels endroits pour ne pas transformer le voyage en une épuisante course de vitesse. - on aime bien prendre notre temps, s’arrêter qqs jours si un lieu nous plait, sauter des visites "incontournables" si ça nous barbe (fatigue, chaleur, overdose de visites, ...). - à la suite de très bons conseils de forumeurs qui se reconnaitront (un grand merci a eux), on a fait une entorse à notre façon de voyager (aucune réservation avant le départ, excepté l’hôtel le jour de l'arrivée) en réservant 8 jours avec une agence locale pour parcourir les montagnes du nord avec chauffeur et guide francophone. Partir avec une agence était en effet la meilleure solution pour découvrir cette région dépourvue de bus en de nombreux endroits, et le guide est bien utile pour ne pas se perdre en randonnée.

Allez, on y va 🙂

Nos étapes : - Extrême nord (Ha Giang - Meo Vac) vers les ethnies montagnardes et rizières - Baie de Lan Ha "la jumelle de la baie d'Halong" - Hanoi - Tam Coc, "la baie d'Halong terrestre" - Hue - Hoi An - Delta du Mekong - Ho Chi Minh

Episode 1 : A la rencontre des ethnies des montagnes du nord

Pour nous qui voyageons seuls d'habitude, nous apprécions d'être attendu à l'aéroport d'Hanoi à 6h30 par Vinh notre guide Vinh et Near notre chauffeur, direction le nord. Aux 11h de vol, on ajoute donc 5-6h de voiture pour Bac Ha, dont la moité environ sur une belle autoroute déserte.

Bac Ha est une petite ville au milieu des montagnes, avec seulement qqs petits hotels de milieu de gamme et des guesthouse, ce qui fait qu'on y rencontre qqs touristes, mais sans excès. 2h après notre arrivée à Bac Ha, nous voila parti pour une 1ère randonnée au milieu des rizières qui dominent la ville.

Ce ne sont pas les plus belles de la région, mais on passe un très agréable moment à se dégourdir les jambes après le voyage dans un tel environnement. Comme convenu avec l'agence, 2 à 3h de marche entre villages et rizières seront chaque jour au programme : nous découvriront des villages, rencontreront des habitants de plusieurs ethnies au hasard des chemins, et marcherons tout simplement dans de magnifiques paysages de rizières.

Ethnie Hmong bariolé

La région de Bac Ha est majoritairement habitée par de Hmong, ici Hmong à fleurs : (par la suite, si des erreurs se sont malheureusement glissées sur les noms d'ethnies, je ne me vexerai pas si les spécialistes rectifient 😉)



La récolte va bientôt commencer, les rizières commencent à passer du vert vif au jaune, nous les verrons jaune d'or dès le lendemain. Partout des paysans sont au travail : par l'intermédiaire de Vinh, nous échangeront à plusieurs reprises, eux qui sont aussi curieux sur nous que nous sur eux.

Le lendemain direction le marché de Can Cau a 45 min de Bac Ha (18km) sur une route zigzaguant dans un beau paysage de montagne (ce sera le régime de la semaine a venir).

67 ans de présence française ont laissé ces beaux souvenirs le long des routes :

Notre parcours a été étudié avec l'agence pour être sur les marchés de Can Cau le samedi, de Bac Ha le dimanche et de Lun Phin le mercredi suivant Le marché de Can Cau est situé en pleine nature, à flan de montagne.



Hmong des alentours viennent y vendre ou acheter toutes sortes de produits, vêtements, nourritures, animaux vivants, oiseaux, etc ... :







Hmong à fleurs(dessus et dessous)

Certains repartent avec des vêtements

d'autres avec un porc ou une chèvre (pour l'achat de buffle la mobylette n'est pas conseillée)

On est les seuls touristes. Le jour du marché est aussi l'occasion pour tous les villageois des alentours de se retrouver autour d'un thang cô (viande et intestins de bœuf dans un bouillon de sang, épices et herbes aromatiques) accompagné d’alcool de riz ou plus surprenant de Red Bull (!!) ... on n'arrête pas le progrès. On n'a pas gouté ce thang cô , le petit déjeuner n'étant pas loin .... excuse minable 😊



Red Bull et pipe

La suite très bientôt

Hi everyone,

In this age of zero-commission cards and fee-free accounts, I’m curious why some travelers still prefer to set off with a wallet stuffed with bills and exchange money on the spot.

I get it for those whose income comes from undeclared activities, but what about everyone else?

Between the risk of theft, scams at exchange counters, and fees that often end up being higher, I’m really puzzled.

The last time I traveled with a wad of cash was because I had to pay for accommodation in cash only, the local currency was the dollar (easy to exchange at a very low cost), and I was still paying some fees.

I’m still wondering about my next trip to Argentina because the situation there is very specific, but otherwise?

Is it an allergy to modern payment methods?

A budget so tight that an extra 20 € (the fees some local banks charge for withdrawals) on a 2000 € budget would be impossible to manage?

Thanks for shedding some light on this!

Bonjour, Je recherche un emplacement pour un séjour de 10 jours en Provence pour faire du VTT. Nous sommes peu expérimentés en VTT mais nous avons une bonne base de vélo de route. On recherche plutôt du sentier plutôt que de la descente à forte dénivelée, bien que ce soit agréable aussi. L’emplacement idéal nous permettrait de rayonner vers des sentiers sans devoir prendre la voiture ou le train quotidiennement. Ce serait aussi intéressant de retrouver de longs sentiers existants pour relier des villages et en faire un itinéraire de quelque jours. Si vous avez de bons spots, laissez-nous savoir! Merci et bon vélo!

Bonjour, Je projette de voyager à vélo, d'abord en France, et pourquoi pas beaucoup plus loin. Je recherche conseils pour les circuits, modalités pratiques, physiques, hébergements, matériels....... Et pourquoi pas partager cette première expérience avec d'autres voyageurs à velo? Merci à tous Marie