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Itinéraire Argentine-Chili de Salta à Santiago via Ushuaia? English translation pending
by Filemma · 2004-08-03 · 4 replies
Bonjour,

Quel itinéraire me conseillez vous pour 4 semaines en Argentine et 3 semaines au Pérou sachant que je vais arriver par Salta et qu'ensuite je veux remonter le chili par le sud pour repartir de Santiago ?

Que ne faut il pas rater ?

Periode : de novembre à décembre

Merci pour vos conseils
Prix billet avion Philippines English translation pending
by Lemmy · 2004-07-22 · 5 replies
bonjour, je pars aux philippines en janvier /fevrier pour 6 semaines. Ma question est : faut il acheter le billet d'avion maintenant (635 a 750 euros ) ou bien attendre le dernier moment pour acheter, j'ai lu cependant qu'en janvier beaucoup de philippins revenaient aux pays passer les fetes de fin d'annee, donc vols souvent complets et tarifs plus chers ? alors ... sinon si l'on peut me conseiller un itineraire a travers les phils pour un sejour de 6 semaines et 1500 euros de budget (avions compris) je suis ouvert a toutes les suggestions car il faut bien avouer que les philippines ne sont pas une terre de predilections pour nous autres les francais ! il y a tres peu de guide en francais traitant de ce pays, il y a bien le lonely planet mais en anglais donc bof... quand au petit fute bof bof...
Quel est le meilleur guide pour l'Inde? English translation pending
by Espritzen · 2004-07-02 · 21 replies
bonjour,

en préparation d un voyage d un mois en mars prochain, je souhaite prendre connaissance de l essentiel 😛

assez habitué au LP, je suis ouvert à vos suggestions

merci😉
Shanti India... Mon 1er voyage... English translation pending
by Parvat · 2004-06-23 · 63 replies
Mombaï, le 22 novembre 05 h 30 du mat’.

La première bouffée d’air, dès que les portes de l’avion se sont ouvertes, sentait… Je ne sais pas très bien quoi mais ça sentait ! Parfois bon, parfois mauvais. Les odeurs d’encens ou d’épices sont très agréables, seulement parfois elles se mélangent aux odeurs de j'sais pas quoi mais des odeurs bien moins agréable que le jasmin... Dans un état d’épuisement total, je suis dans le bus qui se dirige vers le centre ville. On traverse des bidonvilles, les vieilles baraques de bois partout, une crasse et une poussière incroyable, et puis des indiennes en saris ! Qu’est ce qu’elles sont belles et élégantes… Je flashe au maximum sur les couleurs, rose vif, rouge vermillon, bleu roi ou vert, nous sommes toujours si gris en Europe à côté… Dans le bus, je fais la connaissance de Luc, un belge de Ciney (bourgade célèbre pour sa bière !) chouette, ce n’est pas son premier voyage en Inde, nous passons la journée ensemble et il m’aide pour l’achat d’un ticket de train qui part le soir même pour Hospet, près d’Hampi dont j’ai entendu beaucoup de bien. Après qu’il ait déposé son sac à son hôtel, nous sommes partis visiter la ville, la fameuse «Gateway Of India», les rues pleines de monde, des mendiants partout, et les autres qui passent indiffèrent... Le look des gens est incroyable… Ce n’est que mon premier jour et je n’arrête pas d’écarquiller les yeux! Nous mangeons d’un simple mais bon p’tit plat, et je me retrouve déjà dans le train. Les couchettes sont déjà installées, deux autres touristes voyageurs au-dessus de moi se sont réveillés, je m’installe en faisant le moins de bruit possible, mais je ne m’endors pas facilement… Au matin je descends à Guntakal, et je reprends un autre train pour Hospet. Je papote avec une anglaise qui retourne demain chez elle, la pauvre, quelle horrible météo en Angleterre… La gare grouille encore de monde. Je m’achète un chaï, le thé indien aux épices, mon premier chaï est un délice, j’aime beaucoup 🙂 J’observe les coolies, ils font partie de l’image classique de l’Inde, ne portant qu’un pagne, maigres mais superbes, ils représentent toute la misère et la pauvreté du sous continent.

Encore quelques heures de train, et j’arrive enfin à Hospet. Je prends un rickshaw, ces taxis à trois roues comme les tuk tuk thaïlandais, et me voilà à Hampi.

"Hello postcards? Books? Hello Guest House?" me demandent les gosses... Je traverse le village, et me dirige vers la rivière, passe à côté d’un grand temple ressemblant à ceux que j’ai vu dans des livres de photos d’Inde, des statues de la mythologie Hindoue sculptées sur toutes les parois, les femmes en saris multicolores, des mômes sales et des hommes habillés un peu à l’européenne y entrent et sortent. Les rues sont en terre battue, la vie à l’air bien calme ici… Comme me l’avait conseillé l’Anglaise rencontrée à la gare, je vais chercher un guest house de l’autre côté de la rivière. J’attends la drôle de petite barque ronde en bambou, elle ne m’a pas l’air très solide et surtout pas très étanche… Mais ça à l’air d’aller! Les orteils sont bien un rien mouillés, je tiens mon sac sur mes genoux, accroupie, comme la dizaine d’autre personne dans la barque. Une fois cette traversée effectuée, je prends le petit chemin de gauche, à travers la campagne extraordinairement belle… Je croise une magnifique indienne vendant des pommes qu’elle porte dans un panier d’osier sur sa tête. "Namasté" me dit-elle, je ne résiste pas et lui en achète une. Sous le ciel bleu, sur ce chemin de terre rouge, mon sac est léger sur le dos. Je croque à pleine dent dans cette succulente pomme, je profite de tous mes sens de cet instant… Je suis heureuse comme un poisson dans l’eau. Après avoir visité quelques guest houses, je choisis le mignon "Roots n’Rock". La région d'Hampi est entouré de gros ou gigantesques rochers, c'est super joli. Au "Roots n’ Rock" je demande une chambre, et avant que je ne m’installe, comme la pièce n’était pas très clean, je dois attendre un moment qu’on la nettoie… Alors je prends une douche, bois un "mango lassi", boisson lactée à base de mangue, et papote avec d’autres voyageurs… Quand on vient m’annoncer que c’est prêt, je vois les murs recouverts de brun… Et voilà qu’on me dit que ça écarte les mouches… Après quelques secondes, je comprends que c’est de la bouse de vache!!! Comme mon budget ne me permet pas un hôtel à étoiles (d’ailleurs il n’y en a pas dans ce bled), je paie 10 jours 7 $, et installe mes affaires en prenant bien soin de ne pas toucher les murs encore frais de leur "peinture" locale… Une vache pointe son museau par la fenêtre toujours ouverte "Bonjour sacrée vache, si tu veux te lacher n'hésites pas...🤪"

25/11 Hier soir j’ai trouvé que les insectes faisaient un boucan d’enfer dans ma chambre, mais ce matin, j’ai trouvé trois grosses grenouilles ou crapauds, je ne suis pas experte en batracien, dont un juste à côté de mon oreiller !!! P’tit dèj’ pancake, café et salade de fruits du coin, c’est à dire banane, mangue et ananas et je m’en vais au village… Reprends le petit chemin de terre rouge bordé de palmiers de toutes sortes, la barque trop marante, et me voilà dans la rue principale. Installée à la terrasse d’un bui bui, je commande un lassi spécial, et rêve devant la vie de ce village… J’adoooore regarder la vie très colorée des indiens… Les rickshaws jaunes et noirs, les bus brinque ballants couverts de déités peintes à la main de couleurs vives, les gens vivant comme dans un autre siècle, les singes partout courant de toit en toit, les vaches se baladant comme de rien n’était, les enfants n’arrêtent pas de demander des "school pen", les mendiants n’arrêtent pas de mendier, et les vendeurs de toutes sortes d’essayer de vendre. "Banana? Good Banana!"

Je rencontre deux Français arrivant directement de Manali, petite ville tout au nord de l’Inde, quel bien fou de parler à nouveau sa langue maternelle… Ils cherchent un sympa guest house au calme, alors je leurs conseille là où je suis. On mange un thali, papotons encore et nous dirigeons vers la rivière. On s’est payé de ces fous rires dans la barque, et comme c’est contagieux, tous les passagers nous ont imités, ne comprenant rien au français, mais le rire de Françoise est décidément trop cocasse. Le lendemain, je me décide d’aller voir les temples parsemés dans la campagne avoisinante, une joli chemin rocailleux mène au « Vittala Temple » datant du début du 16ème siècle. Ce temple est le plus important et le mieux conservé, de plus ses colonnes merveilleusement sculptées sont creuses et chacune d’elles émet une note ! Dans la cour où je suis, se trouve le petit temple en forme de char, très connu et très photographié. Je prends des heures pour écrire car cet endroit, ce temple, est tellement beau que je relève tout le temps la tête pour rêver devant ces beautés… J’attends que le ciel se dégage pour prendre des photos, guettant chaque rayon de soleil… Je m’extasie en observant la nature, j’écoute les cris d’oiseaux parfois très étranges, et suis transportée dans un monde si serein et si relax par un vol de perroquet passant à quelques mètres au-dessus de ma tête. Je reste là à rêver pendant des heures et des heures… …/… Je suis revenue au village avec trois Italiens avec qui j’avais papoté un moment au temple, et c’est tant mieux, car à ce qu’il paraît, en fin de journée les chemins ne sont pas très surs pour une voyageuse solo. 28/11 La saison touristique commence petit à petit, de plus en plus de voyageurs arrivent des quatre coins du monde, et Hampi est un passage obligé dans cette partie de l’Inde. Beaucoup de voyageurs ont toujours un instrument de musique avec eux, un bel israélien joue de la guitare, un charmant italien ne quitte jamais son didgeridoo, et Olivier, le copain de Françoise joue des petites percussions. L’ambiance est souvent très très chouette. Les shiloms tournent, j’observe toujours les beautés de la nature, les papillons multicolores, les oiseaux jaunes et verts à taches blanches et aux longs becs, une grande abeille jaune et noire au corps très mince. L’espèce de gros choucas fait un boucan d’enfer pendant de longues minutes, il s’est installé dans le palmier où j’ai attaché mon hamac, dans lequel j’écris. Je ne l’oublie jamais sous les tropiques, je le trouve trop indispensable! Mais quand même après avoir "bien" déjeuné, j’ai loué un vélo, et suis partie me faire des muscles et perdre des kilos sur les chemins d’Hampi.

Il fait super chaud et humide, la mousson n’est pas encore terminée, mais c’est un endroit tellement superbe, on trouve de grosses statues de Ganesh ou de Shiva au croisement d’un petit chemin, ou des adorables petits temples au milieu de bananeraies ou palmeraies, vraiment splendides comme moments. Un petit écureuil crie comme un fou, peut être crie-t-il après sa dulcinée ? Les oiseaux chantent à cœur joie, époustouflants de beautés. J’observe ce que je pense être un pivert, ensuite mon regard s’arrête sur des petits perroquets, et sur d’autres sublimes oiseaux dont je n’ai pas la moindre idée du nom. L’écureuil n’a pas bougé, moi non plus d’ailleurs, j’écoute le vent frapper les feuilles de bananiers les unes contre les autres. Le ciel est tout bleu avec quelques tous petits nuages, et je suis installée à l’ombre, sur des grosses pierres de ce petit temple tout perdu. J’ai quasi fini ma bouteille d’eau, je vais devoir penser à bouger…../...
Donne infos sur Oman English translation pending
by Sév14 · 2004-06-01 · 23 replies
Bonjour à tous,

J'ai vu qqles discussions sur l'OMAN. J'ai pour ma part effectuer un petit séjour dans ce merveilleux pays l'année dernière en février 2003 pdt 2 semaines.

Si vous voulez des infos (livres, hébergements, billets dégriffés, culture, ....), contactez moi au 06.65.41.58.90.

Séverine
Euros ou USD en Inde English translation pending
by Jipe · 2004-01-08 · 9 replies
Je n'ai plus ete en Inde depuis fin 2001. Jusque a cette date, j'emportais toujours des USD (traveller checks + cash). Depuis, l'Euro est arrive. J'aimerais savoir si il est facile de changer des Euros (idem, travellers et cash) en Inde pour eviter le double change, Euro=>USD=>roupie. Et ce surtout en cette periode ou le USD descend descend descend...
Qui est parti au Costa Rica sac a dos? English translation pending
by Véda · 2003-12-04 · 8 replies
Salut tout le monde.

Je suis en train de me demander 🤪 où je vais partir dans 3 mois et donc j'ai eu une petite lueure 😎 pour le Costa Rica.

Est-il facile d'y barouder 🏴‍☠️ ?

Racontez-moi votre émerveillement 😎 . Quels endroits vous ont marqué ? Et dites moi tout ce que vous avez envie de me dire sur ce pays... même les cotés noirs 😠 . C'est toujours intéressant et c'est ce qui fait un pays a part entiere.

MERCI 😛
France – Liban en voiture (été 2003) English translation pending
by Kroc · 2003-11-28 · 3 replies
France – Liban (2003)

Cette année j’étais motivé ! J’étais motivé pour partir au Tibet… oui mais voilà, un impondérable : le SRASM. Sous ces quelques lettres anodines se cache une nouvelle maladie pulmonaire qui fit quelques centaines de morts en Asie, et qui, surtout, fut très médiatisé… Jusque là, rien de suffisamment alarmant pour me faire changer de projet. Mais c’est sous la pression de mes proches et surtout la fermeture temporaire d’une frontière qui me décida à mettre un terme a ce fabuleux voyage.C’est alors, qu’un petit mois avant mon future départ, JiJoe, un amis, me fait une proposition qui ne peut se refuser : partir de France au Liban en voiture. Pour le parcours, j’eu tous loisir de faire gambader mon imagination le temps de se mettre d’accord sur les grandes lignes : France – Italie – Slovénie – Croatie – Monténégro – Kosovo – Serbie – Bulgarie – Turquie – Syrie – Liban et un retour plus rapide par la Grèce.

10 Juillet 2003 C’est comme cela que je me retrouve dans une Twingo rose en direction de Lyon où l’on s’arrêtera quelques jours pour penser à tous ce que l’on aurait oublié et surtout se refroidir dans une piscine avant un été qui promet d’être chaud : la météo annonce déjà 38°C dans toute la région !

Lundi 14 Nous quittons Lyon un beau matin autours des 6h30, direction Genève. C’était prévue, nous ne visiterions pas l’Italie : après le tunnel du mont blanc les villes s’enchaînes, Milan où l’on prend à penne le temps de se restaurer et Venise dont nous verrons que le périphérique…Vers 17h nous entrons sur les verdoyante terre de Slovénie. Et là, lassé des autoroutes et désireux de découvrir le paysage, nous nous dirigeons vers la capitale Lubjana à travers la montagne et sur des routes pas indiqué sur notre atlas routier… On est joueur en cette fin de journée ! Après 15 km de virage incessant, nous passons au travers d’un village nommé Logatec et à proximité d’un sapin démunie de toutes ses branches à la base. Bref, on veut savoir se que c’est exactement et on s’arrête.Après une visite des environs, on rencontre un vieux qui nous parle dans sa langue, le slovène… La voisine nous traduit quelques minutes puis nous invites chez elle : on discute un peut, et à cause de notre pauvre anglais, on confond le tilleul avec cet arbre que l’on à vue dans le village. A partir de là débute un gros malentendu qui ne sera élucidé que le soir dans la tente en écrivant ces lignes. Eux parlant des tilleuls et nous de ces sortes de sapins, on apprendra quand même que les tilleuls sont le symbole du pays depuis le passage de Napoléon.On plante notre tente à coté d’une chapelle et de ce fameux arbre !

Mardi 15 On part pour lubjana : la capital. Une petite balade dans les rues s’impose, une église par ci, un château par là. Puis, sous les conseils de la voisine du vieux de Logatec, nous partons en début d’après-midi pour Bled et un parc naturel non loin de là : un haut lieu touristique de Slovénie.Et en effet, le cadre est tous simplement magnifique. Nous en profitons pour faire un petit plongeon dans cette eau si claire. Visiblement c’est interdit, mais personne n’ose venir nous chercher au beau milieu du lac. Le soir, nous nous imprégnons de cette ambiance de vacance qui règne sur les berges avant de s’endormir dans la voiture.

Mercredi 16 Le matin nous prenons tous notre temps pour la visite du château surplombant le lac. Nous rejoignons un second lac à une heure de route d’ici pour prendre du bon temps à flémarder sur ses berges. L’eau est toujours aussi claire et rafraîchissante (Il fait extrêmement chaud). On tente ensuite de manger pour 365 tolar : c’est ce qu’il nous reste et ça fait environs 1.5€. En fait je me trompe sur les prix et nous lâchons encore quelques euro.Vers 17h, nous nous décidons enfin pour partir vers Postojna à travers la montagne… Et là, ce qui devais être un agréable raccourci et malgré notre sens aigu de l’orientation, se transforme en une rallonge incroyable dans un dédale de chemin pour le moins pittoresques. Le soleil disparue derrière les monts et la faim venant, nous terminons notre folle course à environ 1300m d’altitude sur un chemin de terre où nous pouvons enfin demander notre chemin : tous rentre dans l’ordre. Avec un tel retard, plus question de dormir en Croatie ce soir, on stop donc à Postojna où l’on dépense nos quelques Tolar en bière. Cela nous permet de rencontrer des habitués qui nous explique à grand renfort de dessin la signification des fameux sapins rencontrés deux jours plus tôt. A priori, ils sont typiques de la région, (quelques villages) et sont mis ici pour la fêtes nationale du 24 juin. En outre, ils nous déconseillent le camping sauvage à cause des petits grizzlys du coin. De toute façon, il est bien trop tard pour trouver un camping, le montage de la tente se fera donc de nuit et sauvage.

Jeudi 17 Au réveil, un paysans passant ;-) se met à nous parler dans une langue incompréhensible pendant quelques minutes pour finir par glisser le mot bien compris de nos deux campeurs : police. Sans changer nos plans, nous quittons la Slovénie en fin de matinée pour faire halte à Rijeka en Croatie. C’est une ville sans grand intérêt à nos yeux. On galère un peut pour ce garer, on mange une pizza pour notre premier restaurant du voyage avant de déambuler une heure ou deux et remplir quelques formalités : argent, timbre, Email.Nous poursuivons donc notre route le long de la cote adriatique, les rumeurs avaient raison : c’est magnifique ! On plante notre tente dans un des nombreux campings coincés entre la montagne, la route et la mer. L’eau (salé cette fois) est limpide, le soleil tape toujours aussi fort et nous nous exerçons quelques peut au diabolo et à l’art de la jonglerie.En résumé, nous passons une fin de journée tranquille et bien agréable.

Vendredi 18 La nuit à été tourmenté par de violents vents qui arrachèrent la première toile mal fixé de notre tente : réveil vers 5h. Après un petit déjeuné sous de nouvelles bourrasques entre un muret et la voiture (abri totalement inefficace), nous continuerons la descente de la cote adriatique entamée la veille. C’est à ce moment que l’on eu une idée absolument génial : plutôt que de suivre cette belle route bien droite, dirigeons nous vers Vire, ce petit village indiqué sur notre carte dans l’espoir de trouver une communauté de pêcheur jusqu'à présent absent du littoral. Très mal indiqué, Vire se situe sur une pointe voisine d’une pointe touristique et n’est desservie que par une unique petite route. Ca parait bien partis, mais l’aventure coupe cours : après 35km d’une route tortueuse, nous découvrons avec horreur un village vacance en pleine construction et déjà habité… Les rues ne sont pas terminées, entre deux chantiers une décharge utilisée pour brûler tout les immondices, sans oublier l’usine de béton érigé là pour l’occasion. Même les plages sont couvertes de gravas et autres déchets de chantier : malgré la chaleur toujours aussi étouffante, nous nous privons de notre baignade ! Ce serait quand même mentir par omission que de passer sous silence Nin, le charmant village touristique non loin de là.Le soir, dans un coin un peut à l’écart pour planter notre tente, deux policiers interrompent notre dîné et nous invite à rejoindre notre camping… Nous reprenons dons la route à la tombé de la nuit pour la passer sur un parking de Zadar. On en profite pour visiter cette très jolie ville et très animé en ce vendredi soir. Nous nous faisons littéralement attaquer par une nuées de moustiques pendant la nuit : dans la voiture on en recense une bonne vingtaine au levé du jours ! Mais il y en avait sûrement plus car nous en tuerons jusqu’au lendemain soir !

Samedi 19 Après une nouvelle visite de Zadar de jour cette fois-ci, notre descente de la cote se poursuit tranquillement au rythme effréné des baignades tri quotidiennes. De l’avis du narrateur (oui oui, c’est moi J ), Split est une ville à ne pas manquer : toute une partie de la ville voie ses maisons et ruelles enchevêtré avec les vestiges d’un palais romain. Tout comme les belles croates, cela donne à ses quartiers un charme indéfinissable. De plus, les terrasses des cafés et une scène de pleine air laissent penser que les vendredis soir doivent être animées. Oui mais voilà, on est samedi et ici les week-ends sembles correctement respectés et c’est tout à leur honneurs.Nous faisons donc encore quelques kilomètres afin de trouvé un paisible village ou quelconque havre de paix susceptible d’accueillir notre Twingo et leurs passagers pour la nuit. Et on trouve notre bonheur sur une plage privé avec douche et parking, que demander de mieux !

Dimanche 20 Après ce camping improvisé où nous avons tous deux passé une excellente nuit, nous mettons le cas sur la ville mythique de Dubrovnik. Par chance, nous trouvons un parking gratuit pour la journée ainsi que la nuit non loin du centre culturel. Dubrovnik est une vielle ville toute neuve ! Je m’explique, c’est une ville historique qui à subit de grand dommage lors de la dernière guerre et qui a été entièrement rénové pour le plus grand bonheur des nombreux touristes. En une journée, nous croisons plus de Français que depuis tous le début du voyage. Comme beaucoup de ville extrêmement touristique, nous en prenons plein les yeux et puis… c’est tous. Pas de rencontre si ce n’est une petite discussion avec un barman. (L’avantage c’est tous le monde parle anglais) Nous finissons la journée dans la mer avant d’errer de nuit dans les rues pour finalement assister à un concert de jazz en sirotant quelques bières locales pour dilapider notre monnaie.

Lundi 21 Nouvelle semaine, nouveau pays ! Nous faisons nos adieux à la Croatie et sa belle ville pour s’enfoncer dans les terres. La Yougoslavie c’est visiblement éteinte depuis le début de l’année laissant place au derniers pays qui la composait : La république du Monténégro et de Serbie. Le Kosovo quand à lui est toujours sous contrôle des Nations Unis mais fait partie de la serbie. (Ca, c’est la version que l’on a compris)Afin de rentrer dans les terres, il nous faut trouver un col que l’on pourra traverser. Celui que nous choisissons n’est pas si haut que cela, il ne fait que 1006m. Mais les milles mètres de déniveler se transforme en un enchaînement de lacet interminable se terminant tous de même au beau milieu de magnifique paysage du terroir Yougoslave. Ou plutôt Monténégrin devrais je dire… Nous en profitons égoïstement, et c’est bien dommage.Nous passons la nuit à Podgoritsa où un jeune parlant quelques mots d’anglais (c’est rare en cette contré) commence par nous dire qu’il n’y à rien à faire et rien à visiter ici ! Sans nous décourager nous trouvons un cybercafé sans Internet, deux distributeurs de billets en panne, une poste sans téléphone qui marche ni timbre et même la carte de téléphone acheté le matin se révèle être une carte pour téléphone portable ! On accuse un peut le coup, mais après une petite pause bien mérité nous finissons par trouver des timbres (toujours inutilisé à se jour faute de carte postale) et surtout un téléphone. Je remercie au passage mes prof. d’allemand qui ont tous de même réussi à m’inculquer les bases.

Mardi 22

Il n’y à donc pas grand-chose à visité ici ? Nos difficultés de communication et surtout notre longue route encore à parcourir nous décident à traverser la Yougoslavie rapidement : 400km dans la journée devrais nous permettre de découvrir une autre ville. C’était sans compter sur les limitations de vitesses ainsi que le piteux états des routes : il nous faudra donc dix heures, sans compter les arrêts, pour les parcourir. Nous traverserons quatre postes de douanes plus un autre contrôle dans la journée qui seras la plus épuisante du voyage.Toujours à travers les mêmes magnifiques paysages nous traversons un pays en pleine reconstruction : le Kosovo. Nous prenons même un raccourci pour le plaisir des yeux… mais un 4*4 aurait sans doute été préférable pour ce col de 12km non goudronné ! On ne s’attendait pas à ce qu’une piste soit indiquée sur notre carte.Au terme de cette journée pour le moins aventureuse : ce sont les journées où l’on se retrouve au sommet d’un col dans un dédale de piste non indiqué sur notre carte avec un soleil de plomb pour toute boussole… Nous arrivons finalement dans la ville de Nis vers 18h00 où nous avons à penne le temps de traverser un parc au milieu de remparts. Après avoir fait la connaissance de trois Françaises/Yougoslaves nous expliquant un certain nombre de chose et d’état de fait, nous partons en quête de nourriture. Ici, il faut payer en dinar (non non, on a pas quitter la Yougoslavie :-). Il est trop tard pour faire changer quelques-uns de nos euros et notre carte visa n’est acceptée nulle part.On s’endort donc le ventre vide et mort de fatigue. Bref, après une excellente journée.
Népal ou Ladakh au mois de juin (pour les moussons!) English translation pending
by Cleop74 · 2003-10-09 · 3 replies
j'hésite entre les deux surtout à cause des moussons. le Népal a l'air plus facile à organiser. on part seulemnt 2 semaines fin juin et on veut juste se ballader pas de treks pour l'instant.

merci de me donner ds renseignements sur cette période de l'année et laquelle des destinations vous prendriez.🤪
Itinéaires pour Guatemala et Honduras, Utila ou Roatan? English translation pending
by Mel34 · 2003-06-21 · 6 replies
😉 Bonjour à tous,

Je prépare un voyage d'un mois au Guatemala Honduras du 20 juin au 20 juillet 2004 environ.

Mon itinéraire approximatif est le suivant:

Flores- Tikal Poptun Biotopo Chocon Machacas Guatemala Ciudad, volcan Pacaya Lac Atitlan avec Panjachel (Nebaj dans la cordillère los Cuchumanates) La Ceiba, (parc national punta sal ou parc national cuero y salado) Utila ou Roatan

Que pensez-vous de cet itinéraire? Quelqu'un est-il déjà allé dans les parcs cités? Je recherche un parc où il y a des cascades, des animaux que l'on peut voir et éventuellement des grottes. Pour faire du rafting, où faut-il aller? La période pose t-elle problème?

Pour être sure de voir des animaux tels que le jaguar, je pense qu'il vaut mieux que j'aille dans un zoo, connaissez-vous un zoo au Guatemala ou dans la région de La Ceiba au Honduras ou des endroits où l'on soigne les animaux blessés?

J'hésite entre Utila et Roatan, laquelle est la mieux pour faire du snorkelling et de la plongée? Je sais que l'on peut aller nager avec les dauphins de Roatan, peut-on le faire d'Utila. Les requins-baleines sont-ils visisbles au mois de juillet?

Merci de vos réponses précieuses pour organiser ce voyage.

Mel
Hors des sentiers battus English translation pending
by Shankar · 2003-01-29 · 10 replies
Je préfère cent fois, mille fois une petite cascade (Sikkim), un bouddha sculpté sur un rocher (Ceylan), un temple de village dédié à Meenakshi (Tamil nadu)...que je découvre au hazard d’une balade hors «sentiers battus» que le Taj Mahal, la foire de Pushkar et le Wat Phra Keo de Bankok réunis.

«loin des autres et près d’eux»
Two weeks in Santo Antão and São Vicente – trip report
by Jeanne2303 · 2026-03-01 · 4 replies
Hi everyone! The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂

First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.

Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.

There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
From the Awakening to Travel to Morocco in the 90s
by Jojoone1 · 2026-02-20 · 77 replies
As I’ve mentioned elsewhere, I inherited my love of travel from my parents and some of my grandparents. A strong passion, but one that was unfortunately limited by our family’s modest resources. Back then, living in northern Alsace, a simple trip to the southern part of the region—with the Wine Route as our destination—felt like an extraordinary journey to a land of plenty for the little boy I was in the late 60s and early 70s. Everything seemed so huge when you were still just a kid. Back then, I was overwhelmed by countless sensations—I was already highly sensitive, with a keen mind and a nose and taste buds that were developing like a pro’s. Which, as I’d later realize, wasn’t always an advantage.



Those magical days always began with a gentle late-spring or midsummer morning. The interior of the white Peugeot 404, license plate 210 LZ 67, had already soaked up the sun before the engine purred to life, and the cabin gave off a scent I could still recognize today—a fragrance I found so pleasant. Back then, I had no idea it was just the smell of warm plastic from the car’s interior. Yes, the scents of the 404 on sunny days became my madeleine de Proust... What’s more, the whole family was unusually cheerful because those moments of relaxation and leisure were rare. Everyone worked, and no one had an easy job or was well paid. Without the *Trente Glorieuses*, these experiences might never have happened.



Once we crossed the canton’s borders, I felt like I was light-years away from my everyday surroundings, and every kilometer plunged me deeper into *terra incognita*. It was thrilling. Far from my so-called "medium-sized" town, wheat fields, cornfields, and cabbage patches stretched out, punctuated by tall poles connected by long wires and topped with vegetation—like giant clotheslines without laundry, where magical beanstalks might grow to touch the sky. Back then, I was still far from tasting their product, which was simply beer. At the time, there was still a significant local hop production. Fun fact: it wasn’t until 2002 that Anglo-Saxon scientists proved hops and cannabis belong to the same biological family.

After the fields, the landscape took another step up as it rolled past the little boy’s eyes, often glued to the windows. First came modest hills, then a succession of rolling slopes that soon formed an unbroken chain. Their 700 meters in altitude felt like Himalayan peaks to me—impressive, inert giants, a whole new world. Gazing at them, an intense emotion welled up somewhere between my stomach and lungs, nearly taking my breath away. What mysteries, what treasures did these heights hold? And then there were the cherries on top—the crowning touch that made the scene even more magical: proud, majestic castles perched on the summits like impassive sentinels. Monuments from the past, yet firmly rooted in the present on their rocky spurs. The little boy’s eyes sparkled—he’d been given a castle for Christmas, complete with battlements, towers, a drawbridge, and fully armed knights. He’d watched and lived *Ivanhoe* on the only French TV channel that existed back then.

Only once did my paternal grandfather join us on one of these trips. A tall, intelligent man with a face that could shift from stern to mischievous, clearly full of humor and charisma. Sadly, his relationship with alcohol had taken a toll on his life and, by extension, those of his loved ones. He had a strong personality—if his boss crossed the line, he wouldn’t hesitate to punch him, which meant he went through a lot of different jobs. Back then, you could quit one job and easily find another. It was quite something to see him in his final stages, hallucinating pink elephants and even drinking perfume when he had nothing else left. The last time I saw him, he’d slipped away from the doctors and nurses while hospitalized in pretty bad shape—at least, I assume his liver was the issue. We were sitting down for a family lunch when the door burst open, and there he stood in his pajamas, eyes twinkling with mischief, clearly pleased with the dramatic entrance. That theatrical moment didn’t spare us from burying him a few months later at the age of 71. One day, my mother told me the family doctor had quietly remarked that it was a shame—with his robust constitution, he could’ve lived to be a hundred. Yes, the family doctor—this was the man who’d come treat you any day, at almost any hour, just for a phone call. It really existed, it’s not a myth!

That day, his wife—my paternal grandmother—was also along for the ride. Everyone agreed that Jeannette was a good woman. She worked as a waitress at *Le Tigre*, the biggest brasserie in town, right in the center. Most customers preferred to be served by her, including local dignitaries and even the mayor. As a kid, I didn’t find her very fun, open, or warm—she seemed a bit stern. Back then, women in their fifties already had the face and build of grandmothers. Same went for men, don’t get me wrong. I had no idea about the struggles she faced because of her husband. I didn’t know that 30 years earlier, she’d had to flee Alsace while pregnant, under threat from Nazi fighter-bombers. I didn’t know she’d had several miscarriages, and that my father—her only surviving child, born prematurely in March 1940 at the other end of France—weighed less than a kilo at birth and was so tiny he could fit in a shoebox. Hard to imagine he’d grow into a strapping man nearly 1.80 meters tall, tipping the scales at 100 kilos. When you come back from summer camp in early August and ask why she didn’t pick you up with your parents, and they gently tell you she’s "in heaven," you don’t realize she passed away at 54 after suffering greatly from stomach cancer that had spread.

Back to that family outing, that enchanted parenthesis. I even remembered where we’d had lunch when I passed through Dambach-la-Ville decades later. One of those charming, flower-filled towns Alsace produces in abundance—and preserves so well. This one sits high on a hill, and I was a bit stunned on the parking lot because the view stretched far, revealing the Alsace plain below—its fields, villages, hills, and forests. The world seemed so vast and enticing that day, even though I was only glimpsing a tiny fraction of it.



The region was already very touristy, but I wouldn’t notice the downsides until much later. That Sunday noon, I discovered a large restaurant filled with diners. I can still see the enormous piece of meat they served me, decorated with a little wooden skewer topped with a flag. I kept that one for a long time. Those were the golden days of rich, flowing, thick sauces—so flavorful—and the era of the world’s best fries, made on the spot with the best potatoes. To top it off, I was *exceptionally* allowed a small bottle of apple juice, Orangina, or—even better if possible—Sinalco. Yes, Sinalco—like Orangina, but better. A brand that must’ve disappeared in the 70s, but why, and what a shame! Since then, Orangina’s little bubbles have taken the brand to the other side of the planet—it’s now Japanese.

Year after year, I’d eagerly await that ecstatic moment when the most beautiful castle in Alsace, the Haut-Koenigsbourg, appeared in my field of vision. The perfect model, the archetype that blended into the landscape at the height of a child’s dreams. The trip home always felt like a reality check—less jarring than an alarm clock, but more diffuse and melancholic. From then on, there was only one wish: *When do we leave again?*
Need help organizing a trip to Cape Verde during Carnival
by Jeanne2303 · 2026-01-25 · 29 replies
Hi everyone, After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February! I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach. So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival! Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things. I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself). But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕 So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia? I need help 🏴‍☠️
In the land... of Senegambia
by Solene40 · 2026-01-10 · 90 replies
Hey fellow travelers!

So, a new year has begun. It’s time to reconnect with the VF buddies and wish you all my best for 2026—a year I hope is obviously full of travel, since, as I just made up: "If travel’s good, everything’s good" 😄.

To celebrate, I’m inviting you into my new "travel journal," the one from our latest trip in November 2025, a little two-week adventure.

This time, we headed to The Gambia, a tiny country tucked right in the middle of Senegal, before making our way to Casamance.

The Gambia is English-speaking, Senegal is French-speaking, but the locals? They couldn’t care less—because in this part of the world, they mostly speak Wolof, Fula, Jola, or Mandinka. Hence the title: Senegambia 😉.

As usual, I’m sharing the live updates I sent to friends and family—super casual, of course.

I know this isn’t the kind of destination that draws crowds, but if you love adventure, laughter, and emotion, it might just be your thing 😊.

Hugs 😘
Old Burmese Adventures (oh, so many!)
by Songsam · 2025-11-24 · 57 replies
Hey everyone,

Yesterday, I checked the Thailand forum to see if there were any questions to answer, but not much was happening—it was pretty quiet. Then I scrolled through the Southeast Asia section and realized that, even though Burma (Myanmar) was included, there weren’t many posts about it... I’ve only been there once, back in 1987, so it’s hard to create a photo thread about multiple trips like I sometimes do for Thailand. Still, that one trip was packed with unusual adventures, so I thought I’d share a few stories from it.

Since I didn’t take any notes at the time, this is all from memory—it’s not an exhaustive travel journal and isn’t meant to help plan a future trip to Myanmar.

Don’t expect photos; there won’t be any. I have some, but they’re slides that would need scanning and editing one by one to fix the wear and tear of time—way too much work.

The Context.

Back then (reminder: 1987), I was volunteering in Paris at the counter of a travel agency on Rue des Écoles. The agency was part of a well-known organization based in Mulhouse that mostly offered scheduled flights to Asia, charter flights to the Mediterranean, and flights to Mali with their own plane. They also had a few rare "roots"-style trips to certain destinations—trips where you didn’t bring your tennis racket but were ready to soak in everything, even if it meant tough conditions.

I’d already been to Thailand, Indonesia, and the Philippines in Asia. The director knew this, so he asked me to accompany a group to Burma. At the time, tours to Burma were already being sold by competitors, but they all had to go through the state-run agency, Touristburma (buses and hotels for tourists, and they only showed you what they wanted you to see—kind of like traveling in North Korea today). The service was only payable in dollars at the official exchange rate (which was six times worse than the black market rate, mind you...), and since it went through the state agency, all the money ended up with the junta.

My job was to do everything *without* going through Touristburma, which was completely illegal there. Nothing would be booked in advance. Back then, the Burmese visa was only valid for 8 days/7 nights, and since clients were paying for the experience, the itinerary was planned ahead. I’d have to find transport and a guide on the black market as soon as I arrived.

The clients weren’t misled—they knew from the start that the trip would be off the books, that officially we’d be a small group of friends (not an agency), unlike the truth (Touristburma wasn’t mandatory for individual travelers), and that it would be challenging. They also knew their trip would cost 3-4 times less while giving them a much better experience of Burma. As for pretending to be a group of friends, there were only six of us, so it worked out.

To cover all expenses (accommodation, transport, excursions), the agency gave me a sufficient budget. They also gave me the *same* budget a second time, which was strictly for bribing officials who might cause trouble, for backshish (tips), and, if needed, to "help" me get out of prison.

Before I left, I was thoroughly briefed by another guy who’d led the previous trip (he’d dealt with all the initial challenges). He explained everything I needed to know, what to watch out for, and advised me on what to bring as "gifts" (samples of well-known perfumes, specific cigarette and whisky brands, etc.). For the perfume samples, I rallied my family, friends, and even stores. For the rest, I’d pick things up at the duty-free shops in Don Muang (Bangkok’s only airport at the time)—I had the budget for it.

I couldn’t wait to leave...
Travel Journal - 28 Days in China in August 2025
by Vilabel · 2025-09-06 · 116 replies
Hi everyone! I’m sharing a modest travel journal from my trip to China in August 2025.

There wasn’t much room for improvisation on this trip—everything was planned in advance. Since August is peak season, I decided to book train tickets early, and once that was set, I reserved all the accommodations too. I got everything on Trip.com.

I bought the flight tickets back in March from Hainan Airlines. They were super expensive, but with these travel dates, I couldn’t exactly dream of a bargain!

I picked up e-SIMs valid for a month from Free just before departure: 10 € for the e-SIM + 19.90 € for a one-month plan with 35 GB of data abroad.

No need for a VPN with these e-SIMs, but D. still got one—a multi-device plan for 5 € with a discount from Let’s VPN, valid for a month. It was for evenings at the hotel on Wi-Fi to avoid burning through the 35 GB with video.

I downloaded Alipay, WeChat, Amap (Baidu Maps), and Trip.com. We also have Google Translate and Maps.me—absolute must-haves.

We’re ready to go!

I’ve been waiting for this day for nearly 15 years!! I travel a lot, but this one—this is MY TRIP 🙂 It’s been postponed so many times: because I wanted to do it with the right person, because I have a Turkish stamp in my passport and heard they don’t issue visas with that, because of COVID... and then China introduced a 30-day visa exemption, and that was the green light! Ugh, they forced us to take our vacation in August this year—far from ideal—but no more delays. Saturday, August 2, 2025: it’s finally the big day!

Days 1 and 2: We got dropped off at Charles de Gaulle at 9:30 AM. I supposedly checked in online, but only for the first flight and without getting the boarding pass... Might as well scrap online check-in in that case. So, we spent over an hour in line at the counter to get them. We didn’t have any checked luggage—just our backpacks as carry-ons—so this was a step we’d never had to deal with before, but whatever, it’s done. No wait at passport control, 5 minutes through security, a quick walk around the terminal, 10 minutes in the boarding area, and it was already time to board. Departure around 12:45 PM, arrival in Chongqing at 4:50 AM. We had a few hours of layover before our next flight. Went through immigration, connecting flight control, and security. Pro tip: check your next flight’s boarding gate right after immigration. We never saw it displayed again anywhere in the terminal.

The Free e-SIMs work—phew!

Took off at 9:30 AM, arrived in Guangzhou (Canton) at 11:20 AM in the rain. I love how Chongqing is translated as "Tchoung King" on the screens in the plane—very French!



During my first two trips to China, we paid for everything in cash, but this time, we’re going all-in on Alipay and WeChat. I still brought the leftover change from previous trips—it might come in handy. At the metro station, they showed us a QR code to buy tickets via WeChat. There were probably machines and even a ticket counter, but we didn’t see them, and buying via WeChat was pretty simple. 8 yuan to Changshu Lu, which is 22 stops. So far, so good. Then, we had to find the hotel, which wasn’t on Google Maps, Maps.me, or Amap... Easy 😎! We found it without too much hassle, though. Dropped off our stuff and went out to eat. 55 yuan for two claypots with fish/eel, rice, cabbage, and purple eggplant. When we left, it was pouring. We grabbed our umbrellas and set off to explore the neighborhood: Enning Road (we’ll come back later to check out a specific spot), Shangxiajiu (the pedestrian shopping street), Baohua Road... The area is pretty diverse—one street to the next, it’s like stepping into a different world.





There weren’t many people around, probably because of the rain. We grabbed a quick street food dinner and went to bed—we were exhausted. We struggled to stay awake until 11 PM to adjust to the time change as quickly as possible. There’s a 6-hour time difference.
Croatia, Montenegro – two victims of overtourism?
by Attila · 2025-07-11 · 206 replies
Mid-June, two Auvergnats on the starting blocks—off we go to the former Yugoslavia! We’d already explored some nooks and crannies of northern Croatia back in 2019, so we’re keeping the momentum going by planning a trip to the south of the country and then Montenegro.

On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!

We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.

Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...

Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).

Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?

For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!

15 days in Turkey with family: Is this itinerary doable?
by Normandaluz · 2025-03-11 · 28 replies
Hi there. About a month ago, I posted a potential itinerary for Bulgaria and Istanbul, but in the end, since we found some relatively cheap flight tickets to Istanbul, we decided to go for a trip to Turkey instead.

When? 2 weeks, late August (14th to 29th) Who? Dad, mom, a 17-year-old teen, and an 11-year-old child

Here’s our plan: do you think it’s doable? Any practical tips?

We start with 4 full days in Istanbul (5 nights) Then, we rent a car and head to Ephesus. We stay there for 1 day (2 nights) After that, we drive to Kaş. We stay there for 4 full days (5 nights), enough time to relax a bit, see Kaputaş Beach and Kekova, the site of Myra, the site of Patara, and possibly the site of Çıralı/Olympos—even though it’s a bit far—and Saklıkent Gorge. From Kaş, we spend 2 nights near Denizli to see Pamukkale and Aphrodisias. Is it possible to visit both sites in the same day? Then, we travel from Pamukkale back to Istanbul, return the car, and spend one last night in Istanbul.

Thanks for your thoughts!
Sao Tomé, the forgotten island
by Solene40 · 2025-02-25 · 110 replies
Hey there, it's me again—back with my usual travel journal share for our loved ones, from our 15-day trip in October 2019.



"Ah, here it is at last—that sweet scent of elsewhere so dear to Cricri and Lulu’s noses, that mix of apprehension and desire when facing the unknown.

We’re really diving into the unknown this time, taking you to the island of SAO TOMÉ... also known as the island: *‘Wait, what did you say?’* 😄. Because apparently, no one’s heard of Sao Tomé—except our Portuguese friends.

It’s an archipelago of three islands smack in the middle of the world, right on the equator, off the coast of Gabon.



No, these aren’t the sun-soaked, Polynesian lagoon islands. Here, *‘it rains, it pours...’* pretty much all the time, it seems.

There’s not much to *‘see’* in the traditional tourist sense—EXCEPT for stunning landscapes, lush vegetation, a few beaches with golden or black sand, colonial buildings still in their original state, a single main road, and plenty of *‘tracks’* that are more or less drivable. All this surrounded by an African population that speaks Portuguese and is known for its warm welcome.

Well, that should be enough for our happiness—and hopefully yours too! 😊



Ready for landing?
Scenic routes around Ouarzazate and southern Morocco
by Fabiendu69 · 2025-02-21 · 33 replies
Hi there,

We’re heading to Ouarzazate and southern Morocco in 7 days. Here’s our route (map). We’re a family of 2 adults and 3 kids (11, 9, and 5 years old). Could you let me know if there are even more scenic roads to take, and any must-see spots, please? 😉

Day 1: Ouarzazate – Skoura – Dadès Day 2: Dadès + Todra Day 3: Tinegir – Djbel Saghro – N'Kob Day 4: Tazzarine – M'Hamid (overnight in Erg Lihoudi) Day 5: M'Hamid – Draa Valley – Agdz Day 6: Agdz – Fint – Ben Haddou Day 7: Telouet – Ouarzazate
Road between Zagora and Mgouna
by Maroc2025 · 2025-02-13 · 15 replies
Hi there, Can you tell me if the road between Zagora and M'Gouna is easy or difficult for a 4x4? How much time and how many kilometers should I plan for? I’m traveling in May. Thanks!
Visiting collective granaries in Morocco
by Jeeaan · 2025-01-27 · 15 replies
Hello everyone, I’m currently planning our next trip to Morocco. We really enjoy visiting one or two collective granaries on each of our trips. We’ve seen some already, like the one in Aït Kine, or the one in Tasguent, and of course those in Amtoudi, as well as the cliffside granary of Ifri. There are still many left to explore. I’d love to hear which ones you’d recommend—preferably ones that aren’t too hard to access. I’m counting on you! Thanks
Mexico Trip Itinerary: Mexico City, Puebla, Oaxaca, Pacific Coast
by Marie5210 · 2025-01-20 · 35 replies
Hi there,

We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy). So, we’re leaning toward something like this: - Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city) - Puebla: 3 days - Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?) - Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours) - Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)

Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?

For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.

Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?

Thanks for your help!
A lovely wander at the mercy of the wind in this amazing Rajasthan
by Solene40 · 2025-01-10 · 214 replies
Hey there, forum friends 😉

Some of you have mentioned missing the activity on this Indian "page," so let’s try to liven things up a bit—with joy and good vibes (mandatory with me 😜). Plus, it’ll make Jojoone happy 😊.

As big lovers of India—we’ve been six times—my co-traveler husband and I decided to explore Rajasthan this time around. The reason we waited so long to come here? We were dreading the tourist crowds in this state. But thanks to the timing (late March to early April 2024, which is starting to get pretty hot) and Aleph’s great tips, we were *very* far from mass tourism.

We spent three weeks getting around on our own for transport: mostly taxis and trains.

And I’ll admit, we had a rather "Arabian Nights" experience, far from the "real" India (Marien, if you’re reading this 😉). So this travel journal makes no claims other than to share what we saw, experienced, and felt—with all our ignorance about this country (which I’m fully aware of).

But fair warning: I go overboard with emojis, and this journal is super casual because it’s the one I share, almost in "live" mode, with our loved ones.

So, if you’re here, consider yourself almost part of the family 😄.

See you soon and....
46-Day Itinerary in Thailand
by Marien33 · 2024-11-11 · 135 replies
Hi everyone, I’m a die-hard fan of India, but it’s time I discovered Thailand too to broaden my Asian horizons. I’m heading there on January 19, 2025, for a 46-day trip (no visa needed as I’m French). I’ve pored over a few guidebooks and travel blogs. Based on what caught my interest, I’ve put together a rough itinerary and list of sights. But since I know absolutely nothing about Thailand, I’m kind of flying blind here. Since I’m not exactly a spring chicken anymore, I’ve opted for a few bases where I’ll stay several days in the same place. That way, I won’t have to change locations and hotels every day or so, packing and unpacking my suitcase constantly. Instead, I plan to explore the surrounding area each day, within a maximum radius of 50 to 70 km. So, first question: Is that kind of round-trip distance manageable in a day in Thailand? In India, renting a car for a day—with a driver—currently costs around 35 to 40 € per day. Knowing that 1,300 to 1,500 THB would be my absolute max, and even then, only if I don’t rent a car every single day. Which brings me to my second question: Am I being unrealistic? Otherwise—third question—once I’m settled in the city I’ve chosen as my base, can I get around within that 50–70 km radius using public transport? I’ve already booked all my hotels—with free cancellation—on booking.com at an average price of 950/1,000 THB per night. Does that put me in a good range for value for money? Or am I dreaming?

Here’s my plan:

BANGKOK (13 days, 14 nights): 1 week for exploring Bangkok – Kanchanaburi/Erawan National Park? – Ayutthaya/Lopburi? – Muang Boran – Samut – Songkram/Amphawa

Bangkok -> Chiang Mai by overnight train in first-class sleeper

CHIANG MAI (6 days/6 nights): Mae Hong Son – Hot springs – Chiang Dao – caves – Lamphun – other places to be decided on the spot based on what’s worth seeing and transport options

Chiang Mai -> Chiang Rai

CHIANG RAI (7 days/8 nights): Fang – Tha Ton – Chiang Saen – Doi Tung – Chiang Khong – Doi Ang Khang, Phu Chi Fah, etc.

Chiang Rai -> Phrae

PHRAE (4 days/5 nights): Lampang and surrounding areas, depending on what’s interesting to see

Phrae -> Loei

LOEI (4 days/5 nights): Phu Kradung – Chiang Khan and surrounding areas, depending on what’s worth seeing

Loei -> Buriram

PHIMAI (Nakhon Ratchasima/Khorat) (5 days/6 nights): Phimai – Prasat Muang Tam – Phanom Rung – Prasat Phanom Wan

Phimai -> Khorat (airport or train station) -> Bangkok (overnight in Bangkok)

Day 46: BANGKOK -> KOCHI

Thanks in advance for your thoughts and advice!
Southwest! 8 weeks with the family, Denver-to-Denver loop, 1st part...
by Scot2021 · 2024-10-26 · 84 replies
Hey there, VoyageForum!!!

I’ve combed through this site up, down, and sideways to plan our two-month road trip across the American Southwest during the summer of 2022, so it only feels right to give back and revive the USA travel journal section—helping others prep, travel, or relive their own memories! 😏

A quick intro to the stars of this trip is coming soon... in an upcoming post!

Table of Contents:

Road trip introduction Day 1 & 2: the days we double-checked all our papers... Day 3 & 3 bis: The day we discovered Denver... Day 4: The day of the race, the carriage, and the little one’s cough... Day 5: the day the road trip truly began... Day 6 & 6 bis: the day of Nature’s first wonders... Day 7: the day the sky fell on our heads... Day 8 & 8 bis: the day we saw ghosts... Day 9: the day we climbed the mountain... Day 10: the day the theme song from "The Last Picture Show" played on loop in my head... Day 11: the day we lived like Native Americans... Day 12: the day we left civilization behind... Day 13 & 13 bis: the day we explored another planet... Day 14 & 14 bis: the day Caro reunited with HER rocks... Day 15 & 15 bis: the day of the fantastic ride... Day 16: the day we cooled off in Lake Powell... Day 17: the day the Colorado River’s meanders were all ours... Day 18: the day we dipped our feet in the Colorado... Day 19: the day the guys discovered true vastness... Day 20 & 20 bis: the day we covered a few acres of Route 66 before sunset... Day 21: the day the credit card said stop... right before the STRIP... Day 22: the day we finally discovered Cirque du Soleil... Day 23: the day we returned to calm... well, almost... Day 24: the day we reached our home base for 6 nights: Saint George Day 25: the day we should’ve explored Yant Flat... Day 26: the day it was 13°C at Cedar Breaks... Day 27: the day we explored The Narrows in Zion NP... Day 28: the day we discovered Snow Canyon... Day 29: the day we hiked to the "SUBWAY"... Day 30: the day we encountered the abyss—from the north this time... Day 31: the day we arrived in a place where dreams begin... Kanab... Day 32: the day we discovered the first treasures along House Rock Valley... 2nd part: the second part of the journey... Day 33: the day we discovered a magical place... Edmaier's Secret... Day 34: the day Cottonwood Road didn’t open up to us... Day 35: the day of the classic Queen’s Garden + Navajo Loop—and another event that became a classic... Day 36: the second day in Bryce... pure bliss!!! Day 37: the day we swam at the foot of Calf Creek Falls... Day 38: the day we took the Burr Trail, even with storms lurking... Day 39: The day of the goblins... Day 40: the day we enjoyed the peaceful Capitol Reef NP... Day 41: the day of the Rim Overlook and another letdown... Day 42: the day we arrived in... Moab... Day 43: the first day in Arches National Park... Day 44: the day of the Fisher Towers... Day 45: the day of Bow Tie & Corona Arches... Day 46: The day of Shafer Trail + Potash Road... Day 47: The second day in Arches NP... Day 48: the day we discovered Colorado NM in a flash... Day 49: the day of Black Canyon... Day 50: the day we passed through Durango before falling for Silverton... Day 51: the day we went through Ouray and ended up in Gunnison... Day 52: the day of Kebler Pass and arriving at the hot springs... Day 53: the day of hot springs II, then the road back to Denver... Day 54: the last day... Day 55: back home and the RECAP...
8-day road trip starting from Agadir
by Ponturio · 2024-10-23 · 30 replies
Hi everyone! I’m heading to Morocco for a full 8 days in early November—it’s my first time visiting. I’m traveling solo and arrive in Agadir on Sunday at 10 PM. I plan to rent a car to get around. I’m reaching out to get your advice so I can plan my trip as well as possible... Here are my questions: 1 - Given my late arrival, is it better to stay overnight in Agadir for the first night? If so, do you have any hotel recommendations, and is transportation easy to arrange at that hour? 2 - Do you have any trusted rental car companies to recommend in Agadir? 3 - For 7 days, here’s the route I’ve planned: Agadir → Taroudant → Taliouine → Tafraoute → Tiznit → Agadir. Does this route seem good (not too short, not too long, any spots worth adding?), considering I enjoy driving? 4 - Should I book my accommodations in advance? Thanks in advance for your recommendations! I hope these questions aren’t too repetitive compared to what’s already been asked on the forum. Sébastien
From Costa Rica to Suriname, a travel report
by Djackx67 · 2024-10-13 · 13 replies
Hi everyone, I’m restarting my travel reports with my 2023 trip that took me from Costa Rica to Suriname over a month and a half.

First stop: Costa Rica. I arrived in late September in San José, a city I know well and never linger in. As soon as I got off the early-morning flight, I headed to the domestic airport—just a 5-minute walk away—to catch a 45-minute flight to Puerto Limón on the Caribbean coast. The 40-minute flight in a small Cessna was fun, especially since we landed on a tiny airstrip right by the sea—it felt like landing on the beach, which immediately set the mood. Plus, I wasn’t keen on enduring the 4–5-hour bus ride to Cahuita, especially since large sections of the road were under renovation. In Cahuita (where I’ve been going every year since 2015), I stayed at Kenaki Lodge on Playa Grande. It’s a great lodge, about a 45-minute walk from Cahuita’s center, but you’re just 50 meters from the beach and usually have it all to yourself. The lodge is run by Béa, a Frenchwoman, and depending on the season, you can help release baby turtles on the beach. The room was 55 €, very spacious, and you can use the outdoor kitchen. I’d recommend it for anyone looking for peace and quiet and a private beach.

After 5 days there, I flew to Cartagena but didn’t stay overnight. Instead, I headed straight to Rincón del Mar, a 3-hour bus ride from CTG. I’d mostly heard about it from a friend who lives there and runs El Ché, a beachfront restaurant. Rincón del Mar is a tiny seaside village, very peaceful, with a pretty nice beach. There are lots of small hotels and restaurants, and it’s a spot that’s likely to grow quickly in the coming years. Note: there’s no ATM there, so you’ll need to withdraw cash in San Onofre, about 30 minutes away by moto-taxi. The round trip costs around 25,000 COP. That’s also where you catch the bus to Cartagena. For accommodations, rooms were roughly 70,000–90,000 COP, with a so-so value for the price. As for things to do, I’d recommend the tour that takes you to watch the sunset in front of Bird Island, followed by a swim in a lagoon with bioluminescent plankton. The excursion (if I remember correctly) cost around 90,000 COP.

After a week in Rincón del Mar, I headed back to Cartagena and decided to fly to Yopal to visit the Río Meta. In Yopal, you’ll need to go to the bus terminal (10 minutes by taxi from the airport). From there, I took a bus to Orocué (50,000 COP) for about a 4-hour trip—it felt endless because the road was in terrible condition. Orocué is a tiny town on the banks of the Río Meta, but it has all the essentials (hotels, restaurants, ATMs). It’s lovely to stroll along the river at sunset. There are a few small bars, the area is very natural, the sunsets are stunning, and when there are distant storms, it’s just breathtaking. For lodging, I stayed at Hotel Brisas de San Miguel. It wasn’t bad—fan-cooled room for 70,000 COP. There were quite a few mosquitoes. I spent 3 days in Orocué. If you want to swim, head to the bridge (the only one), Cano San Miguel, and on the right, there’s a swimming spot. With the heat, it’s a great way to cool off.

From Orocué, I took a fast *lancha* (boat) up the Río Meta to Puerto Carreño, in the Vichada department at the far end of Colombia. This brings you to the majestic Orinoco River, right across from Venezuela. The boat ride is long—10 hours—and costs about 60 €. We left around 6 AM, with a few stops for bathroom breaks and meals along the way. But you *must* book your spot 1–2 days in advance. To do that, go to the small square above the dock—there’s a "navigation office" there. The trip was long but enjoyable. I never get tired of river journeys.

I was happy to finally arrive in Puerto Carreño, a small border town with Venezuela. No surprise that half the population was Venezuelan. In Puerto Carreño, I stayed at Hotel Delfines del Orinoco. The room was 80,000 COP, decent, with A/C, and the best part was the pool. I spent 2 nights there. One thing you *must* do—morning and evening—is hike to the top of Cerro de la Bandera (the *cerros* are huge rock formations typical of the Orinoco region, and there are many in the area). From the summit, you get amazing 360° views of the savanna and jungle. Sunrise is especially incredible. The trail is well-marked—from downtown Puerto Carreño, it takes about 20 minutes.

Next, I spent 3 nights at Rancho Barú. About an hour by boat from Puerto Carreño, you get off at Casuarito, and someone from the lodge picks you up by motorcycle for a 30-minute ride. The ranch is in the middle of the savanna, with a river/rapids beach just a 5-minute walk away. You can also fish—bites come quickly. For the lodge, one night (room or hammock) with shared bathrooms, three meals included, one excursion, plus the round-trip motorcycle ride costs 245,000 COP. An extra night without an excursion is around 100,000 COP, but you need to let the lodge know in advance so they can prepare enough food—there’s absolutely nothing for miles around.

After those 3 great days at the ranch, I took a canoe to cross into Venezuela, since Casuarito is right across from Puerto Ayacucho. The crossing costs 10,000 COP, but I got shaken down by Venezuelan immigration, who invented a violation and made me pay $40 USD. Puerto Ayacucho didn’t inspire me much. The city felt sketchy, with many hotels closed. Dealing with currency exchange was the hardest part—you *must* bring cash (USD or Colombian pesos), know the exchange rate, and find someone with enough money to exchange with you. It took me at least 2 hours. I stayed in a decent hotel downtown for $20 USD a night, but I’ll admit that going out at night—even in Puerto Ayacucho—felt pretty dodgy. All the buildings have bars on the windows, and there weren’t many people outside. I didn’t linger and found my plans to continue south too complicated. The next day, I took a bus across the country to the Brazilian border at Santa Elena de Uairén. The trip took a day and a night, with countless military checkpoints where they made everyone get off, unload all the luggage, etc. Not exactly a fun ride.

Photos: - 2 sunrises near the Orocué dock - Storm over the savanna at Rancho Barú - View of the savanna and Orinoco near Casuarito - Photo taken during the Río Meta boat trip
The Island of Pelops
by UnaMilanese · 2024-10-11 · 15 replies
October 7, 2023, is a sunny day in Milan. Since morning, in this light, I’m WhatsApping with Afrooz in Tehran, and I decide to call her. A lively, joyful conversation—French with that Farsi accent becomes a wonderful language. Suddenly, everything feels possible. Isfahan, Shiraz, Damavand, Yazd, Yazd, Yazd—a delicious word savored endlessly—become within reach. Iran, so longed for, is finally here. Pure joy, absolute enthusiasm. Six months to plan and relish a trip before living it.

Then I open *Le Monde*.

Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa

Frozen. Empty. No. We decide to wait, not to give up right away, pretending to believe—just a little, just to keep from collapsing—that with this wretched human race, the worst isn’t necessarily certain. It is.

So... meh, Madeira? The Azores? Uzbekistan (a pale substitute)? New Zealand? Greece. Again, always. Nestling into the only European promise we’ve been given. Indulging in illusions, for the pleasure of it.

So, train from Milan to Ancona (9 AM–12 PM), a typically Marchigiano lunch (Italy is paradise for food lovers), a stroll through the city, then at 4 PM boarding the *Olympic Champion*. Arrival in Patras the next afternoon, car rental, and off to Lepanto—Nafpaktos today—to reminisce about glorious victories and pay tribute to Cervantes, who lost a hand there before writing.

That’s the plan, anyway. The train is unusually on time. The ferry, replaced in the meantime by the *Hellenic Spirit* (why not? Even if it’s less suited to the season), is 3 hours late, then 4, no 5, then finally 6—oh wait, 7. And on top of that, it’s pouring rain in Ancona, and the port waiting room closes at 6 PM. Great...

At 11 PM, the ferry’s lights emerge in the pitch-black night. We jostle through the downpour, board, and sleep well in a cozy cabin with the white noise of the engines. Then:

23 hours of rest. Of forgetting.

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