Visiting collective granaries in Morocco

Hi, I can help you out...😛

How many days do you have for all this, and what will you be driving? Some easy dirt roads or just paved ones? A bit of walking (max 1 or 2 hours) or easy parking?

Hi there, Happy to get some help... thanks! We’re heading off for three weeks and landing in Marrakech. We’re renting a Dacia. Normally, we shouldn’t take dirt roads, but we’ve done it before. As long as it’s safe for the car, we can handle a bit of off-roading. We can also walk a little, without scrambling over rough terrain... Here’s what we’re looking for. If you’ve got any hidden gems to share, we’re all ears!

Have you heard of the granary of Inoumar? It’s built in the middle of nowhere, in an extraordinary location. But it’s really accessible.

So... here we go, just the two of us...🙂

I managed to figure out—with the help of a few NASA engineers—how to share a GPS point to Google Maps just by clicking on it... Sounds simple, but for a tech-challenged guy like me, it’s an achievement on par with what humans did on the Moon in '69... Then I tried to shoot for Mars by replacing the link name with another word, but... the rocket crashed...

I’ll recap the ones you’ve visited—might help others who don’t know about them...

There was a travel journal about granaries too; here’s the link again:

https://voyageforum.com/forum/greniers-fortifies-maroc-d7807111/

Amtoudi... Obviously, can’t miss it... There are two granaries...

L'agadir d'Id Aissa, which you see right away when arriving from the paved road...

https://maps.app.goo.gl/NaUNoSAgP5GPkMpV8

Mandatory approach on foot with a nice climb; the daytime guardian is usually here... Small contribution to give to the contracted guardian (he sometimes mixes up 20 dhs and 200 dhs, so don’t hesitate to speak up—poor guy isn’t getting any younger).

This agadir was restored around 2007 with the help of a famous woman who was *very* "interested" in its heritage (then again, she needed a thesis project...😇) before pivoting to a much more lucrative career... We won’t see her restoring other granaries without a press agent or camera crew. But hey, we’ll take what we can get... (Sorry, lol, but I can’t stand that hypocritical opportunist—though she probably knows all the chic restaurants in Paris 😐. Okay, I’ve ranted enough, I’ll stop.)

And the other one, a bit farther away, D'Aguellouy, was also lucky enough to be restored, and it’s a must-visit. The guardian isn’t always around, so don’t hesitate to ask before climbing up—call him from the campsite when you arrive. It’s best to visit this one right after the other to follow the ridge path and avoid a tough descent and climb. https://maps.app.goo.gl/KwCtSjMmRSof4sqW9

There used to be six granaries in this area back in the day...

These two granaries offer great viewpoints. If you’ve got the legs for it, a simple hike through the canyon to the gueltas is well worth it... No need to go too far unless you want to climb the cliffs.

FYI, there’s now pavement leaving Amtoudi. Start of the section: https://maps.app.goo.gl/2sWCJJ614uMQA8L17 End of this section: https://maps.app.goo.gl/DuhZkqSQmW3wn63H7

A road branches off to the right, heading up toward Tafraout—some nice scenery, especially when driving the other way. There’s a ruined agadir, Oukhdeyr, up high. https://maps.app.goo.gl/jJDES6igWhoVcfua7

Just after, but like I said, I think this road is prettier when coming toward Amtoudi than the other way.

Google doesn’t know it, but it’s the agadir de Meherz (Osmand and Gandinoche call it Amharze). https://maps.app.goo.gl/r8Bxm3XhaCW1UGRa7

Pretty spectacular from the road, even more so on-site, but there’s a nearly 1 km approach hike with some exposed sections... Better to have a head for heights like a mountain goat, but it’s doable... This one deserves restoration... Salima, if you’ve got a free moment between tea salons in Paris... Marhaba (okay, I cracked, but I held out for 10 lines). You can see a ton of beehives from the road, arranged on several levels on the cliff... This place had a defensive purpose, and even Winnie the Pooh wouldn’t have been able to steal its honey. There are two watchtowers similar to Amtoudi’s still visible. I figured the honey must’ve had real market value to justify a beehive in such a spot.

You also mentioned Tasguent. Another granary worth visiting. https://maps.app.goo.gl/cbC6QRQvuX2Ur8KX7

For those who don’t know it—if you’re in the area, don’t miss it. Even from the outside, it’s photogenic. Sometimes you won’t find a guardian... No big deal—just go to the nearby village, Amzrou, and ask to visit. A small part is still functional; if I remember right, three tribes manage it, and the granary is open for use on Fridays. On other days, you just need to find someone from one of those tribes who has the key...

Quite a few granaries in this area... About half an hour north of Tasguent, heading toward Taroudant, there’s the granary of Itourhain. https://maps.app.goo.gl/onX1kXV98JSmnKvu9 A cool shape with the satellite view... The pavement almost goes right up to it now. It’s been a while since I’ve been there, but it was functional (mostly for grain) with a guy living on-site.

In the same style, a bit smaller but really charming, the granary of Kemaz. https://maps.app.goo.gl/3WFoUgYpCKwFtub17 Also heading toward Taroudant, there’s a dirt road, but it’s easy (well, as of two years ago, when I last visited). This track is beautiful, with some spectacular canyon viewpoints (according to my GPX track, it’s 34.3 km of pavement to pavement). This granary is still functional, and a guardian lives on-site. Better chance of talking to people who use it on Fridays after prayers. In good condition.

I’m saving this first part so I don’t lose everything—I live near Mont Saint-Michel, and the internet here is *not* the best ^^

Wow, this is amazing—I wasn’t expecting so much! I’ll try to make the most of all these contacts. A huge THANK YOU...

I think there are still two parts left to come... I've got some paperwork to do...😉

So, continuing...

We start with the granary of Ouguezmir... Jacques Meunier called it the granary of Inif... Google Maps calls it a campsite... We get the culture we deserve... 🤪 Not easy to find this one. https://maps.app.goo.gl/EgtXQdmZbBiPkzbf6

Okay, it's a track to get there, but you can manage by driving carefully. On my last visit, I only noted one tricky spot—the rest was accessible for sedans. It’s an agadir that looks a bit like Kemaz. Still functional, I think it’s still inhabited... You’ll rarely run into other tourists. It has three beautiful watchtowers. Step back a bit for a full photo.

The track starts here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Ug8Z86U2sdcwkmKJ9 And the little tricky spot is here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/S4z1bTEzvU9Kn1447 Note that tracks... they deteriorate, they get redone... Next time, it might be smooth or even paved. These spots are also the starting point for the track leading to another agadir that’s one of my favorites. As I said, I don’t know if it’s still a track or paved—things change fast in Morocco since COVID...

So, next up: the agadir of Oui n'Alioun (not sure about the spelling) https://maps.app.goo.gl/2Gg8YF4aCWCQ1P2w9

Not well-known, quite run-down inside, but I think it’s impressive because of its location... Beautiful spot. The track goes down a dead end toward a tiny village. This little village is up high... So you have to descend into the canyon and climb up the rocky outcrop opposite... It’s doable, but not worth it for those who struggle with walking... The granary overlooks a stunning panorama in front of a long, beautiful gorge that I’ve promised myself to hike one day... Don’t go up to the granary without finding someone who has the key... You’ll be cursing... ^^

This track, which starts from the already mentioned paved road, ends on the R106, the one between Ighrem and Tafraout. Nice track, but better keep your bearings—easy to get lost and follow the wrong one... Not all are passable for sedans... I’m noting this little point because for signs, you’ll have to wait... Following the main track, turn left here (after that, it’s a dead end, so no mistake possible): https://maps.app.goo.gl/CDeV9oQBimkVvsPi9

A little photo viewpoint over the valley: https://maps.app.goo.gl/CDeV9oQBimkVvsPi9

Still in this area, the one in Taghzout https://maps.app.goo.gl/GUzDnio5v4rc57YB9

Track sometimes rough, starting here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GUzDnio5v4rc57YB9 Just a few km...

Granary of Tiouarkine

https://maps.app.goo.gl/cTnQVSuWxvJVCYMb7

From the Igherm-Tafraout road, turn here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/5DYoj9DrvMFVLVHp7, basically on the road leading to the one in Tasguent... Start of the paved road here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/14L8WY3MQjCGSyFr6 https://maps.app.goo.gl/CChLv1tobQE5yeGbA here, turn left. This agadir is functional... I’m noting it because it’s a nice one, but really for the curious—there are quite a few tracks, and not everyone will find their way. You’ve got to be comfortable with tracks...

Heading back toward Taroudant, the agadir of Iguen n'ghar. https://maps.app.goo.gl/ouvz4YLfYasXU6de7

It’s quite visible from afar since it sits on top of a hill. But it mainly offers an impressive panoramic view. Short track to get there, starting here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/K2PiPt75YWD7tHiA9

Okay, here’s an easy one, more touristy, and also because I read that Trostang didn’t manage to find it (shakes his magician’s hat): Inoummar https://maps.app.goo.gl/gLaZCFgVXE9hhik99

Really imposing and more touristy, easy to access, not far from the paved road. There’s a kasbah by the road that you can visit—park there... Worth seeing, of course.

The agadir of Saïssid https://maps.app.goo.gl/ou9BjAYughGbi2rX6

Only 400-500m of track... starts here: https://maps.app.goo.gl/qEAotn7w5ha48uS19

Here’s one that’s just a photographic gem and among the most famous in terms of images—paradoxically, it’s very rarely visited and little known. Walk down the track and step back for some nice photos...

You mentioned it among the ones you’ve visited: Ait Kine https://maps.app.goo.gl/KVrnmQV7xdjkbFg99

Okay, this one’s easy to access—I won’t dwell on it since you know it, and it’s mentioned in the agadirs travel journal.

In the granaries travel journal, there’s also the one in Tizgui, a bit further north toward Siroua... This one too is a gem just for the photos... https://maps.app.goo.gl/EYQMLrbu9bNZztWv8

Easy access. Small hostel at the top of the village—really basic and not fancy, but cheap. The owner, who’s raising his daughter alone, has a heart of gold. Lots of beauty to see in the area otherwise ^^... Yeah, like everywhere...

Okay, I’ll throw in one last one and stop for part 2... I’ll do part 3 next weekend if I have time... And yes, still 17 years to work before retirement... Well, to ask for it... 🤪

Not in the same area, but it’s true that many tourists have seen it without really seeing it... The agadir of Tadakoust https://maps.app.goo.gl/jmySow97zpKFQ26w6

Clicking the link, those who don’t remember the site will get their memory jogged... So, it’s accessible, but better not have a fear of heights... Not easy, and for this one too, having some goat-like agility will steady your step... You have to go around the back, and the passage is in the middle via a sort of zigzag in the rocks... Salima, you’re always welcome for this one. (It reminds me a bit of Id Aïssa.) Well, it’s in very bad shape—don’t go risking a fall for nothing... I mainly went for the viewpoint. (Morning is best.)

There are so many granaries, many in ruins. Less frequented, but there are also some really picturesque ones in the High Atlas... especially the cliffside ones like Aoujgal, easy to access, and Ouchtin, which will take a full day’s hike round-trip from Oulghazi (Imilchil)... Aoujgal: https://maps.app.goo.gl/mVHBYohx1KbGBuj37 Ouchtin: https://maps.app.goo.gl/s1vPhMmJAqDAoRNF8 No vertigo allowed—Ouchtin is DANGEROUS. Don’t go there in sandals with the *Routard* in your pocket... If you ever want to visit it, DM me, and I’ll give you the WhatsApp of a guy who knows what to do...

Okay, I’ll stop... 😉

Thanks so much. This gives me plenty to keep me busy before I leave. I wasn’t expecting this much. So, a big thank you.

Wow, amazing descriptions 😮!! So, between Agadir and Tafraoute, what would you recommend as a priority? I was thinking of stopping to visit the one in Ikounka, Imeghguiguilne, or Ighir Ifran, and the kasbah of Tizourgane. 😎

Hey, Well, you're not doing too badly already... I was going to mention Ikounka... There are quite a few in that area... I’d still add Saïssid for some great photos, and it’s on your way... There’s even one just before Tizourgane: in Imhiln. After that, a lot of them look similar inside... Once you’ve seen 5 or 6, you’ve pretty much seen them all. Many are more interesting for their aesthetic appeal—great photo ops—than for writing an art history thesis...

After Tizourgane, most people head to Tafraout via the classic Route 105, which then joins the road to Igherm... It’s much longer, but turning right just before Tizourgane lets you do a really nice big loop with some amazing spots, like a gorgeous little village perched on a rocky outcrop and a short but spectacular hike along rocky ledges on the edge of a cliff... Okay, just one hint... Timjichte... There are several Timjichtes... None on Google show the one I’m talking about... But I’m not home during the week and I’m not great at doing on my phone what I can do on my computer... 🤷‍♂️ And as always, it all depends on the month you visit... Exploring the Anti-Atlas in March or June... not just about the heat, but the quality of the photos and the clarity of the landscape... well, there’s just no comparison... 😅

Thanks for your reply. We’re planning to go in May. And visit 2 or 3 agadirs, different ones if possible. In Tafraoute, I was thinking of checking out the village of Tagdicht, the Blue Rocks, and the Ait Mansour Valley. After that, we’ll head to Icht, then Tata.

I just got back after 4 weeks of traveling around Morocco. Thanks so much for the info on the different granaries. We had a great time. We started with Imounar. Stunning. Exceptional location. But the former *amine* was replaced by his son—disappointing, neither interested nor interesting. Too bad. Next, we visited the granary of Ikounka, right in the middle of the village. In excellent condition. The guide was a substitute because of Ramadan, but full of goodwill. Then, we went to the granary of Seissid, perched on its rocky spur like an eagle’s nest. Beautiful setting above the valley, but in ruins. And we finished with the granary of Ichebaken, which we spotted from the village. It’s very beautiful, but the water level in the *oued* didn’t let us get any closer. We were told it’s no longer in use. Some truly wonderful visits. Thanks again.

You're welcome, Jean, my pleasure..

I’m jotting down notes and updating my travel journal.

Hello, here’s a region we’ll be visiting in early February. We’re somewhat familiar with the Tafraoute area and would like to arrive there from the R105, seeing a few granaries without taking any rough tracks or doing climbs that are beyond what our old bones can handle! I’ve been inspired by these posts, but who would have the courage to share more info? After that, we’re heading to Tiznit, Sidi Ifni, and the Timghert oasis before continuing our west-to-east crossing via Tata. Thanks already for all the details shared.