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We're planning to go at the end of November/beginning of December to visit (with a rental car) and hike on La Palma and El Hierro for 15 full days, including 1 day for inter-island ferry transfers. What’s the best split between the two islands—8 days on La Palma and 6 on El Hierro, or even more time for La Palma? Should we have one or two home bases on La Palma? Thanks for your tips! Annie

Lanzarote Travel Journal

Trip Planning My partner and I are heading to the Canary Islands for a week at the end of September, specifically to Lanzarote. We chose this island over the more crowded ones for its volcanic landscape and the variety of hikes it offers. I booked everything through Expedia: our hotel stay, car rental, and Ryanair flight tickets departing from Marseille. It was the only way to get a direct flight. To make getting around easier during our stay, I picked a hotel located in the center of the island from the wide selection available. It’s part of the Barceló chain, specifically the "Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only" in Teguise Beach, which turned out to be an excellent choice.

The Trip

Sunday, September 21 - Monday, September 22 Departure It’s 2:15 PM, and we’re at the Avignon TGV station. Danielle picked us up earlier due to the weather—thunderstorms and heavy rain all the way to the station. The TGV was on time, and it only took 30 minutes to reach Marseille Saint-Charles. The shuttle to the airport is quick and convenient, right behind the station. The bus leaves for the airport in the middle of the storm, with flooded roads and cars stuck in some spots. We get soaked making our way to the terminal. Two hours to wait before the flight. The plane finally takes off at midnight, but just before landing, the pilot announces that the destination airport is closed, and we’re being diverted to Tenerife. Ryanair will re-route us as soon as possible. We end up waiting 2 hours, and Ryanair kindly gives us a 4 € voucher. We re-board around 5:15 AM and take off at 6:00 AM. About 45 minutes to reach Lanzarote. After collecting our luggage, we head to the car rental desk. The counter in the terminal is closed, and we’re directed to parking lot P4—it takes us a while to find it. I’m a bit worried about the rental company’s reaction since the car was supposed to be picked up 7 hours earlier, but it’s not a problem. A woman next to us is furious because she’s in the same situation, and her rental was canceled. Anne-Marie translates for her, but nothing changes. We pick up a brand-new Toyota Aigo and head to the hotel. After checking in, we cross the garden, walking alongside the large pool to reach our room. A lovely first-floor room with a jacuzzi and a sea view. It’s early, so we head to breakfast—a generously stocked and varied buffet with everything you could want. Afterward, we drive to Cueva de los Verdes, but it’s packed with people and a long wait. We decide to come back another day. Next, we visit Mirador Del Rio. This rocky viewpoint at the edge of the island has breathtaking cliffs plunging 500 meters into the ocean. The view is stunning and impressive. A panoramic bar lets you cool off while enjoying the scenery. We return to the hotel for a short walk around the neighborhood and enjoy the beautiful pool with its pleasant water temperature. Relaxing by the pool, sun loungers, and all. In the evening, a very varied buffet at the restaurant. Then early to bed to recover from the sleepless night before.

Tuesday, September 23 After a restful night, we enjoy another varied and hearty breakfast. The terrace seating is very pleasant. We take an inland road leading to Timanfaya National Park. The road near the park runs alongside vineyards where the vines are surrounded by lava stone walls to protect them from the prevailing winds. Our first stop is at the visitor center, where the island’s volcanic activity is well-documented. Next, we stop at an area where you can take a short camel ride—two seats are installed on either side of the camel’s hump. This little ride offers a great view of the volcanic landscape from a higher vantage point. A fair price of 11 € per seat for a 20-minute ride. We then head to the park entrance via the road leading to the parking lot, where only authorized buses can take the winding route inside the park. It’s crowded, and we wait about 45 minutes with several stops before reaching the parking lot. We board the bus, and the route offers beautiful views of this volcanic area and its many craters. The journey is very interesting, with several stops for photos. At the parking lot, a guide shows us how the heat from the rocks beneath the surface can ignite dry vegetation. Water poured into holes in the ground immediately creates geysers and jets of steam. The building next to the parking lot has a restaurant where meat is cooked using the heat from a well dug into the volcanic rock. On our way back, we drive to Playa Blanca, a seaside town with a small sandy beach.

Back at the hotel in the late afternoon for dinner.

Wednesday, September 24 We wake up early and have a quick breakfast—few people are around at this hour. Two days ago, we booked a 10:00 AM visit to Los Verdes, lava tunnels created by eruptions and lava flows from the La Corona volcano, which extended all the way to the coast. When the lava came into contact with the air, it solidified on the surface while continuing to flow underneath. The lava tunnels stretch for 8 kilometers to the volcano, but we only walk one kilometer. The inside of the tunnel is impressive, with narrow passages and larger chambers. You can see traces left by the flowing liquid lava—varied colors and twisted shapes. At the end of the path, a large chamber has been turned into a concert hall with perfect acoustics. Next, we visit Jameo Del Agua. This is a continuation of the lava tunnel, developed by Manrique. There are beautifully designed bar and restaurant areas, as well as an underground lake where you can see small blind white crabs—a protected species in this very pure water. Higher up, there’s a lovely space with a central pool that could double as a swimming area, surrounded by beautifully designed white pathways that contrast with the blue water. Further on, you reach a large space inside the lava tunnel, set up as a performance hall with perfect acoustics. Stairs let you view this beautiful space from above. A gap in the lava landscape reveals the ocean on the horizon. We head back toward the village of Yé, at the foot of the La Corona volcano. A 160-meter walk from the church, a path crosses vineyard plots and then climbs to the top of the volcano’s crater in about 30 minutes. It’s the island’s highest volcano. When you reach the edge of the crater, you see how deep it is, with steep slopes inside forming a large circular opening. The place is breathtaking and awe-inspiring. We drive back to the hotel via a road that climbs quickly, offering a beautiful view of the island’s northern part.

Thursday, September 25 After another enjoyable and varied breakfast, we head to the center of the island toward the volcano park and stop at a roadside parking lot where a path leads to the Montana Cuervo volcano. This is a crater that opened on one side. During an eruption, an explosion created a breach in the crater. Huge blocks of rock were thrown dozens of meters away. The path goes through the breach and descends into the crater, allowing you to walk around it. It’s impressive, and you really feel small and fragile in this environment. The crater walls, with their different colors, highlight the rock formations. The crater is surrounded by a sea of lava with sharp, jagged rocks. You can walk around the outside of the crater, but it’s not very interesting. We then head to the west coast, stopping at a spot with a small green lake next to a beautiful black sand beach. Next, we stop at Salinas de Janubio, a lovely viewpoint overlooking the salt marshes with different water colors. A small shop sells various local products. We then head to the famous Papagayo beach. The road ends at a booth where they charge 3 € to continue. From here, the land is private, and you have to pay to drive down a 3-kilometer rocky dirt road. Quite a few cars are driving along it, kicking up clouds of dust. The car gets a dusty makeover. We arrive at a large parking area, with several paths leading to different small beaches. We go to Papagayo, a small blonde sand beach surrounded by red rocks. The beach slopes gently into the water, which is a pleasant temperature. The setting is charming and peaceful. We stay for a while before heading back to the hotel.

Friday, September 26 We start with a visit to the César Manrique Foundation in Tahiche. This was originally one of his homes. The modern construction spans several levels and is integrated into the lava flow, using the gaps to create living spaces. Large windows make the rooms bright and open to the scenery. The place is pleasant, with flower-filled gardens outside. It’s well worth a visit. Next, we drive to Las Grietas, where a path leads to a narrow crack in the volcanic rock, forming a tight passage where only one person can walk at a time. The passage isn’t very long, but progress is slow due to the endless selfies being taken here. We then stop at Casa Del Camposino, a renovated farm that houses several artisan shops. We taste a local wine recommended by a charming woman and buy two bottles of Lanzarote red wine on her advice. Now, we head to Tamara beach, a beautiful and wide beach at the foot of high cliffs. There are always great waves here, making it a surfer’s paradise. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at the cactus garden, César Manrique’s final creation. Designed with a great sense of aesthetics around an old windmill, it features 4,500 varieties of cacti in various shapes, all in a beautiful setting. We return to the hotel in the late afternoon for the evening.

Saturday, September 27 After another hearty breakfast, we head north to Haria. We stumble upon another of César Manrique’s homes, where he lived for a long time. This house is more traditional than the previous one but still has large, modern, and very pleasant rooms. At the back of the garden is his large studio, where he created his works. Next, we visit the craft market—this was our original plan. Various stalls offer local items, and it’s very crowded. No room at the café terraces to sit down. We then return to Famara beach for a long stay. There are always great waves here, much to the surfers’ delight. The water temperature is pleasant, and we enjoy it. On the way back to the hotel, we stop at a gas station to refill the car, which has been very fuel-efficient. Gas is also much cheaper here than in France—1.16 € per liter of SP95. We also wash the car, which was very dusty after the long dirt road to Papagayo beach. At the hotel, we enjoy a farewell cocktail before dinner.

Sunday, September 28 We spend the morning by the hotel pool before checking out at noon. For lunch, we go to a restaurant called "Dona Lola," near the hotel, with a terrace offering a view of the coast. We order tuna carpaccio, which is delicious. We then head to the airport, just 15 minutes away. We return the rental car and go to the airport. A long line to check in our luggage. The return flight is on time. A shuttle bus takes us to Saint-Charles station. We then head to our overnight rental. The boulevard slopes down, making it easier with the suitcases. The rental is between the old port and the train station. Once there, we pick up the keys and make one last effort to carry the luggage up to the third floor. The studio is nice, clean, and simply equipped—perfect for one night.

Preamble: Why La Gomera?

When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”

This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...

Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.

Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!

La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory. The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.

La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.

Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.

Some practical info: - The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side. - We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €. - The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen. - Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day. - Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.

Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!



And we start the trip with music!

We start the trip with music!

Hi there,

I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)

The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...

So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.

I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.

I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.

The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!

In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?

Thanks! :)

Hi there, I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca. From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?

Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?

The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!

Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!

Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks! Gigi

5-day cruise around Komodo Not usually a fan of organized trips, during my stay in Labuan Bajo on Flores in May 2024, I started looking for a fisherman who could show me the islands around Komodo. At the port, I met Ari, a former freediver who knows the islands well, especially the best spots for fish and coral. At the Bohême guest house, I proposed this outing, and one of the activity leaders was happy to join. We headed to Angel Island, where Ari took us snorkeling around the island. During this beautiful day, we appreciated his professionalism, and I suggested coming back the following year for a 5-day cruise. We had to agree on a budget and the period to consider. Over the next year, we kept in touch via WhatsApp. However, a month before departure, Ari told me he had lent his boat to a friend, who ran it aground on a rock, causing it to sink. No boat, no cruise! Since we had an agreement, I asked him to find another solution. His searches in the port, where everyone knows each other, turned out to be fruitful. A certain "Captain" Kambar agreed to take us. He sometimes charters his boat for local travel agencies and could free up the requested period.

There will be six of us on board, as in the meantime, my daughter’s friend, Amandine, could join us for the cruise. Ari will act as a guide, and a mechanic will also be present. To reserve the boat for September 4th, Ari asked me to transfer a deposit of 5 million IDR to his account. After some hesitation, I decided to trust him and made the transfer. A few days later, he confirmed receipt of the amount.

In early September, we arrived in Labuan Bajo. Our first mission was to check the boat’s condition, the presence of life jackets, what we would eat, and if there were any restrictions on drinks. Everything was in order and met our expectations.

The day before departure, we met a 26-year-old Czech woman traveling alone after a stay in New Zealand. The description of our cruise excited her, and she got Ari’s number. That evening, at the restaurant, while we discussed the final preparations, Thérèsa joined us and asked if she could come along for the five-day cruise. Since she seemed like good company, I gladly accepted. However, following Indonesian custom, I negotiated firmly with Ari for a discount, and he agreed to lower the price by 2 million.

On September 4th, we set sail to explore the islands of Komodo and, above all, the seabeds, equipped with fins, masks, and snorkels. We had brought a board game for the trips between islands or for the evenings. In the end, it wasn’t used: the crossings rarely lasted more than an hour, except for two two-hour trips, and the conditions on board weren’t suitable for playing.



The first island we visited is north of Labuan Bajo: Seraya Small. We didn’t disembark but anchored a short distance away. The coral reef, between 5 and 10 meters deep, offered visibility of 8 to 10 meters. We started with a few dives from the boat, as the water was so inviting. As with most of the upcoming sites, we were the only ones enjoying this little paradise. Over about a kilometer along the drop-off, colorful corals and fish abound. As long as you don’t go past the rocky point on the right, the currents remain very weak, and the spot is accessible to beginners. After enjoying the sea enough, we returned to the boat, where Ari had prepared a good meal of rice, chicken, and vegetables. It was simple but excellent after all that effort.

In the afternoon, we discovered Bero Island, where it was very hot. There were fewer fish and corals than at Seraya, but the corals were on white sand, allowing for beautiful, bright photos.

In the evening, we visited Hatamin, a fishing village. The population is very young and curious about our visit. At our request, we could have watched a local dance, but it would have taken some time to organize, and we didn’t plan to return. Ari asked if we wanted to take a shower, as on the boat, we could only rinse off with a little water from a basin.

On the second day, snorkeling near Hatamin, a small paradise island with white sand like in a travel brochure. A small temple is located in the middle of the island. In the water, we saw our first small reef sharks, some clownfish, and a sergeant major fish that followed us throughout our swim. The most beautiful part to explore is opposite the beach. Many corals and fish of all colors. A sailboat was anchored a short distance away, but we didn’t see anyone except an old man who apparently lived in the temple above.





In the afternoon, we headed to the nearby island of Sabolong Besar. It’s a pretty little island with a harmonious resort made up of luxury huts that don’t spoil the landscape. In some places, the water is very clear with good visibility, and some schools of very young blacktip reef sharks swirl near the boat. There are beautiful corals on the left side of the resort and a bit of current when you approach the drop-off. Since the area to explore wasn’t very large, we had time to head to Sabolong Kecil. Then we went to the fishing village of Messah, where a Muslim celebration was taking place. There were people everywhere with many food offerings—what activity! It was like an anthill.



And at the end of the day, we anchored near Kanawa with a beautiful sunset.

On the third day, we discovered Kanawa and some hawksbill turtles. There were many colorful corals, but we didn’t stay long. During this day, the stops were close together, making it intense with four visits. Then we arrived at Sebayur Besar with a different snorkeling approach: Ari dropped us in the current, and we drifted for over a kilometer before he came to pick us up. At first, it seemed a bit worrying to see the boat move away while we were offshore, but we were quickly carried by the current and passed almost too quickly by so many corals and fish to see. What a pleasure to drift and freedive with little effort.

The drift lasted a good hour, and we reached Siaba Island, where the water was colder. There were many boats, and we had quickly lost the habit of seeing other tourists. Visibility was average—it was a nice spot, but after the drift at Sebayur, we liked it less. Around 1 p.m., we anchored with other boats because Ari met up with some friends, and we ate heartily since the cool water had whetted our appetites.



In the afternoon, we were at Manta Point. The water was cool, and there was a lot of excitement trying to follow the giant manta rays. We managed to dive down and get close to them, but it took a lot of effort and breath because, despite their leisurely appearance, they move quite fast for us little swimmers. Here, they come to feed and then return to the depths, and it’s not always certain you’ll encounter them. We ended the day at Makassar with a two-hour sail. There was a lot of wind and swell, the boat rocked, and we hoped there wouldn’t be an engine breakdown. We had to take down the tent on the boat’s roof, which had also been used for sleeping. Makassar’s beach is pink, caused by microorganisms called foraminifera. There are many beach huts along the shore, and we were alone, though it must get busy here during the day. On the fourth day, we visited Padar Island for its viewpoint amid hordes of tourists, then headed to Rinca and its Komodo dragons. Rinca is much less crowded than Komodo, which is why we chose this visit. We saw a few and took the usual photos. In the late afternoon, we snorkeled at Pempend Island, where the sea was choppy and the water a bit murky. And on the last day, we visited Strawberry Rock, named after the reddish rock overlooking the sea. There were many corals, but the water was rough with reduced visibility, and then we went to Kelor with its tourist "bars" and the pretty viewpoint.

In conclusion, we shared amazing moments and managed to complete our program. Luckily, the weather was very kind, and not a drop of rain fell in early September, except just upon returning to the port. It’s worth noting that after five intense days in the water from morning to night, we were glad to return to dry land because we were exhausted.

My daughter and her friend were so thrilled that, in return, they developed a website for Ari to help him get known, and I can share the link if you’d like. I visit Voyage Forum from time to time, so if you have any questions, don’t hesitate—I’ll answer them.

Hi everyone, I need your help! We’re planning to visit Guadeloupe and take the opportunity to explore the islands La Désirade, Marie-Galante, and Les Saintes. I initially planned to rent a car to get around the main island and then take the ferry from Trois-Rivières to Les Saintes, from Pointe-à-Pitre to Marie-Galante, and finally from Saint-François to La Désirade, following that route. But when I look at it, the car would sit unused for at least 5 days—that’s paying for nothing🙁. Is it possible to go from LES SAINTES to MARIE-GALANTE and then on to LA DÉSIRADE? We’d only rent a car once we arrive in Saint-François to continue exploring Guadeloupe. What do you think—is that doable? This trip is planned for April. Thanks so much for your help

Hi, I’m arriving soon in southern Laos and the 4000 Islands, with plans to head to Cambodia next. The latest news I got this morning (Paksé, La Boulange) isn’t great—the Cambodian border is also in a latent conflict with Laos for the same reasons as with Thailand...

So, what’s the best site to check for updates on the border opening? Since the situation isn’t stable right now and could change from one day to the next?

Thanks for your input.

Hello! We’re heading to the Marquesas in July-August and I’d love to know if it’s possible, for a fee, to do a leg of the journey on the Aranui—like from Hiva Oa to Fatu Hiva, or Nuku Hiva to Ua Pou, or even Ua Pou to Ua Huka? Sure, there are shuttles twice a week with Codim connecting these islands, but the schedules won’t be known until two months in advance, and I need to book flights and hotels much earlier than that. So, what’s the best way to handle this?

Looking forward to your replies—thanks in advance! Elisabeth Marcel babeth.marcel@yahoo.fr

Hey everyone, I travel quite a bit, and I’m here to share my thoughts about an upcoming trip to Indonesia, specifically the Togian Islands.

I’m planning to go for 3 or 4 weeks in July-August and looking for a sunny destination that’s not too expensive (flights + cost of living), with varied points of interest. About fifteen years ago, I had planned a trip to the Togian Islands, but it didn’t happen, so I’m revisiting this destination (Sulawesi, Toraja country) + maybe others? Given that in Indonesia, I’ve already done volcanoes in Java, Bali, part of Lombok, and the Gili Islands. The issue is that I’ve read some posts about the plastic waste problems around the Togians, and it seems like they’re not the paradise islands they once were.

So, I have a few questions: I’d love to hear recent feedback from travelers who’ve been to the Togians to get an objective opinion (?) or if you’d recommend other paradise-like islands in Indonesia (not overcrowded).

If you confirm that it’s still an exceptional destination, what did you pair it with? The Moluccas and which islands in particular? Or Flores/Komodo? For my part, I don’t scuba dive—just snorkeling.

Finally, if you have other dream-island destinations (affordable and sunny), I’m all ears.

Thanks in advance!

hi there I’m planning a trip focused mainly on snorkeling and diving in Raja Ampat, covering two islands: Gam and Mansuar. I’d also like to spend a few days on Fam and Rufas Islands. Is it cheaper to depart from Gam or Mansuar? Do you have any info on the budget I should expect? If you’ve got any great tips, I’d love to hear them! Thanks in advance

Hi there, I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice: - My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14 - I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10 - I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well - I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9

In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?

Thanks!

Hi there,

Has anyone here taken the cruise to the Marquesas Islands in French Polynesia with the cruise line Aranui?

Hi there, I’m looking for one or more travel companions for this summer. I’m 32 and open to all ideas—feel free to message me to discuss our plans. Thanks!

Thirty-seven years ago, I crossed Lapland on skis in winter... Four years later, I returned by bike to the Lofoten Islands. Now, I’d like to go back to this stunning country by sea kayak—a sport I’ve been practicing for the past 10 years. If it’s possible to meet up with one or more people for this little trip this year, it’s pretty quick to organize. Otherwise, in 2026, I’d love to kayak around Norway as well. If you’d like to join me for part of the route, that’d be awesome. Some sections require solid kayaking skills and excellent physical condition. I’m 58 and retired this year—in September—due to disability. Looking forward to your questions and/or interest in joining! Improvisation is often part of the plan!!

Hello everyone! Booked the cruise a year in advance for a departure from Rio on April 5th. Air France flight to Rio on April 3rd, arriving at the Windsor Plaza hotel, very well located just 300 meters from Copacabana Beach, with a pool on the 15th floor offering a view of Rio. The next morning, a behind-the-scenes visit to Rio’s Carnival—there were still some floats not yet dismantled and a little samba session. At noon, lunch on Copacabana Beach, which was deserted due to rain and gray skies all day.

Saturday, April 5th, boarding the *Marina*—still raining :( To get around Rio, we used Uber, which was really cheap—5 euros for a 15-minute ride, while taxis cost double... Arrived at the cruise terminal, boarding was very quick as usual with Oceania. The cabins would be ready around 3 PM, with luggage at the cabin door. We had booked an inside cabin. Despite numerous offers from Oceania to upgrade (with a supplement, of course), we stuck with our first choice. It’s worth noting that at least 200 cabins remained unoccupied—about 800 passengers for this transatlantic crossing... Last September, since the cruise wasn’t filling up well, Oceania lowered the price by 1,000 euros per person for an inside cabin—a great deal for us, as they adjusted the rate downward when we asked.

For this cruise, weekends and drinks at the table were included—champagne, wine, beer...—plus an onboard credit that’s now only for excursions (before, it was more flexible—another downgrade, lol).

Headed to the Terrace Café for our first meal, and what a surprise when we saw the changes... No more staff mixing your chosen salad, and way fewer options: big bowls of salad, trays of potato salad, beets, lentils—I don’t remember seeing that before—thin slices of cold cuts and cheese. On the meat side, not much choice and lower quality. Desserts also had fewer options. Well, we’ll make up for it at Jacques on the first night ;) The menu hasn’t changed much—it’s still top-notch. The seasoning is average, but it’s a safe bet.

A little note on the 15-day cruise: we ate at 11 different restaurants—3 at Jacques, 3 at Polo Grill, 3 at Toscana, and 2 at Red Ginger. Not bad for two weeks ;) A French officer invited us to Toscana, which was really nice of her. Polo Grill is still amazing—I’d rank it second after Jacques, with Toscana third and Red Ginger last. I think since the ship wasn’t full, it was easier to get into these restaurants ;)

The staff was, as always, excellent. There were 3 French employees on the *Marina*: 1 waiter at Jacques, 1 manager at Wave, and 1 officer in the offices.

In the afternoon, Tea Time had way fewer pastry choices than before... Cost-cutting seems to be happening at every level. We met people who used to stay in Penthouse Suites—before, they got a bottle of champagne in their suite every night, but since January, it’s been Prosecco instead... Just a small example of Oceania’s cost reductions. At the Terrace Café in the evening, there was no more lobster on this cruise :(

Still, the value for money on this cruise was excellent given the price we paid per person. This transatlantic crossing had 4 stops in Brazil, 1 in the Cape Verde Islands, then Dakar in Senegal, and ended in the Canary Islands.

Mich74

Hi, I’ve booked tickets to Phuket to stay in the Andaman Islands (Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta Yai Noi, etc.). I’m really struggling to book our hotels because the reviews are so bad. We’re looking for mid-range to upscale hotels. Any tips or recommendations would be super welcome!!! Thank youuuu

Hi everyone! I’m heading to Indonesia in September with 3 friends, and we’re starting to plan our itinerary, but we’re still not sure which islands to prioritize. We love nature, road trips, and want to avoid mass tourism. If you have any tips on less touristy but equally stunning islands, I’d love to hear them! 😊

Also, our budget is pretty tight, so we’re looking for ways to manage money during the trip. What are your tips for saving money while still making the most of the experience? And if you have any tricks for tracking and sharing expenses between us, I’m really interested! We tried Excel, but it’s not always easy to manage.

Thanks in advance for your recommendations and great tips!

Hi there,

I have a few questions about Panama. I’ve heard that it’s possible to travel from Panama to the San Blas Islands.

1- Does anyone have information about small plane transport to the islands? I understand it’s possible to fly to one of the main islands, but there might also be other drop-off points for visiting more remote islands. We’re traveling with kids and would prefer to avoid a 5 AM wake-up and a mountain car ride if possible.

2- Regarding our route through the country: we’ve noted the issues with renting a car. We’ve seen that a common itinerary is to fly directly to Bocas del Toro afterward, then return in stages by bus or rental car.

We imagine taking the bus would be really long and tiring (especially with a child). If we rent a car all the way to the west of the country, do you have any recommendations? (e.g., options to rent there and drop it off at the airport or in Panama City, names of local agencies?)

Thanks in advance!

Hello! I’m Mélanie, I’m 49. Since my partner isn’t available, I’m looking for a female travel companion between 35 and 60 to join me in the Shetland Islands. Traveling alone is less fun. I’ll be going for 12 or 13 days between May 9 and May 24, 2025. I plan to fly to Sumburgh and then rent a vehicle to get around the islands. I’d like to stay in B&Bs or with locals, and if possible, I’d prefer to have my own room (I snore and don’t want anyone to hold it against me!). But if that’s not possible, we’ll just have to arm ourselves with earplugs! If the weather isn’t too bad, I’d like to do some easy hikes (around 3 to 4 hours of walking per day). I’ll go at my own pace—I love sketching in my travel journal, so I’ll take breaks sometimes. And if we can go pet some ponies and sheep, I’ll be in heaven. What else? Oh right, I speak English, I’ve never driven on the left, and I prefer going to bed early so I can wake up early and make the most of the day. I live in the Paris area and I’m available to meet interested people if they’re nearby too. I want to book my flight and accommodations as soon as possible, so let me know quickly if you’re interested!

Hello,

I just booked the flight tickets for two people. We arrive on July 21st in the afternoon in São Vicente and will leave again on August 11th from Praia.

I was thinking of staying around 4 days in Mindelo to explore São Vicente using shared aluguers. Then take the boat to Santo Antão, stay there for about five days to do different hikes, staying in Ponta do Sol. After that, it gets a bit tricky—we’ll return by boat to São Vicente to reach São Nicolau. I wanted to know when the ferry leaves in terms of days and times? Or the plane? We’ll stay there for about four days, then take the ferry or plane to Santiago. Same question—what days does the ferry leave and at what time? Or the plane? Finally, we’ll end our trip in Santiago; I’m thinking of staying in Tarrafal. I also wanted to know where in São Vicente we can exchange euros for Cape Verdean escudos. I was planning to use shared aluguers for all our travel.

Thanks in advance for your answers—I’ll probably have more questions later. Nolwenn

Hello, I’m reaching out for your valuable advice before our Caribbean cruise on the Seascape (departing February 22, 2025, from Miami).

In Jamaica, we’re considering the excursion to the Green Grotto Caves. If anyone has done this excursion, what did you think, please? We also planned to take the “Tulum Mayan Ruins” excursion in Mexico and the “Island-to-Island Panoramic Tour, Hell and Starfish Point” in the Cayman Islands. Unfortunately, these two excursions are fully booked. What do you recommend? Can we visit on our own (not the Mayan ruins, as they’re too far and the risk of missing the ship is too high in my opinion)? Is it safe enough? Will these excursions be available on the ship (in case of cancellations, for example)? For your information, I’m traveling with my parents, who are 80 years old. Thanks in advance for your advice and suggestions...

Hi there, we're leaving on January 30th for a Caribbean cruise—there are four couples in our group—and we'd like to organize our own stopovers.

Do you have any great tips for visiting each island, with a preference for landscapes over beaches? Which island has buses to get around, or options for 4x4s/taxis? We're open to all your ideas!

I’ve put together this information sheet based on my own experience, feedback from my clients, and reviews from travelers on various travel forums and social media.

I think it’s important to share the reality of these postcard-perfect little islands with their white sandy beaches and palm trees before you set off. That way, you can make the most of your trip to the San Blas Islands, know exactly what to expect, and decide if this destination is right for you.

The San Blas Islands are run by the indigenous Guna people. They have their own rules, and Panamanian law doesn’t really apply. Today, their main income comes from tourism, so please note that foreigners aren’t allowed to operate cabanas there. This means that as soon as you board their small boats, you’re in the hands of the Gunas, and it’ll be tough to complain about delays, logistical issues, or refunds. Wait times can be long, and the Gunas are pretty informal—at first glance, they might even seem unwelcoming. But you have to understand that their culture and way of life are simply different from yours.

You’ll find plenty of tour operators offering day trips or one- or two-night stays on the same islands at different prices. I think all these listings create confusion and uncertainty for travelers. You can book with operators who care about their clients and deal directly with them, while others act only as intermediaries or booking systems between travelers, the Gunas, and transport companies without providing any follow-up during your stay. Don’t forget that all the San Blas Islands are beautiful, and your choice shouldn’t be based on which of the 365 islands is the prettiest, but on the hospitality of the Guna family, the accommodation, and the service they provide. I also recommend avoiding San Blas on weekends and public holidays.

To explain the sometimes "low" level of service mentioned in traveler reviews, you need to understand that the San Blas Islands are very basic and rustic—that’s also the charm of the experience, which, for some of you, will push you out of your comfort zone. Not all huts have electricity, or even light. If you want to charge your phone, ask the island owner, who might charge you a small fee. Needless to say, WiFi isn’t available on all islands.

Not all Gunas working there have studied hospitality management, logistics, gastronomy, or tourism. There’s been a big "boom" in the last 10 years, and they haven’t been trained for it.

Regarding the 4x4 road transport, expect to be a bit cramped since the car can fit 6 passengers. Also, you might face delays, or the car might already be waiting for you because the pickup route can change, and sometimes other passengers are late, causing delays. To avoid this, I recommend paying extra for private transport—it’ll make your trip smoother and save you frustration before arriving in San Blas, as well as on your return to Panama City, which can sometimes be chaotic.

Stay flexible! Expect delays, lack of communication, waiting for someone or something without knowing why, rustic cabanas, no fish but pasta instead (yes! sometimes the fish season is low!), fried eggs and bread for breakfast—but in the end, everything works out if you can accept these little inconveniences. Just enjoy the adventure!

Finally, the San Blas Islands have a waste collection problem, so you might see trash on the islands, especially during the summer season due to strong currents. Most of the waste comes from the sea and the mainland. For the sake of the island, please take your trash with you.

looking for info on a French-speaking guide for the southern islands of Thailand, Ko Samui, Phuket, Ao Nang, Ko Kood, the Andaman Bay

thanks for helping me plan my trip

Hi, I tried to book 15 nights at Abdul Chalet in the Perhentians for May 2025 starting on the first of December, but I noticed that this year, in April 2024, we stayed there for 10 nights. Today, the response was: "you can only book 7 nights—it’s the new way of operating for 2025." I’m really surprised because we’ve stayed at this guesthouse five times in less than 10 years without any issues, even if the staff isn’t very friendly and the restaurant is just okay. But it’s such a peaceful place that we love. Do you know of any quiet, reasonably priced hotels or guesthouses in the Perhentian Islands you could recommend? Have any of you stayed at Coral View Island Resort recently?

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I’m trying to plan our trip to the Azores. I’m running into a problem: can you rent a car on one island and take it to two other islands? We’d like to pick it up on São Jorge, then go to Pico, and finally Terceira, but the only price I’m seeing is 28,000 € for a week in August! If you know any rental companies that do this, I’d love to hear about them. Thanks! Aurore

PAKSE AND THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU

Bolavens (or "Bolovens" – "the region of the Lavens," an old tribe).

PAKSE

A sleepy town, but packed with backpackers in transit between Laos and Cambodia. The streets are numbered, but since there are no signs, you just have to figure it out (rumor has it the signs have been planned for years; luckily, the center isn’t big). Tons of small hotels, including the well-known Sabaidy 2 on Street 20, a big bazaar catering to all budgets, from dark dorms with shared bathrooms to real rooms with terraces or balconies. Since it’s so popular, booking ahead is recommended. My favorite: the Sala Champa, pricier but with two large terraces, one with a bar, and especially a terrace restaurant I consider the best in Pakse (try the divine steamed fish with lemongrass + Lao Gold beer, a rare delight; ask for room 100, with a big terrace). More upscale, the lovely Résidence Sisouk, run by the very classy and French-speaking Mme Sisouk, from the wealthy Lao Sisouk family, the country’s top coffee producer and one of those francophone families you encounter here and there around the world, where class and culture reign – and perfect French. Delicious pastries and, of course, extraordinary coffee tastings. Similar prices at the Pakse Hotel, run by French owners and famous for its rooftop bar-restaurant (great view!).

Tons of restaurants besides those at Sala Champa and Pakse Hotel: from Dao Lin and Sabaidee at the corner of Street 20 and 13, to a decent Indian place (Hassan) and a nice, cheap spot, the Lao Restaurant & Bar, where you can enjoy Lao cuisine for just a few kips, both also on Street 20. You can feast on grilled fish at the countless riverside stalls along the Mekong.

Pakse is home to the famous Yves, a Belgian married to a Lao woman, Noy, who opened the travel agency Miss Noy. He’ll go out of his way to help tourists; he’s incredible, the real tourism office for the region, with maps, endless advice, and every weekday at 6 PM, a full-blown lecture on the Bolavens and the 4000 Islands. A bunch of young travelers listen intently to his explanations about the whole area (he hands out a well-made photocopied map). He also rents bikes and has an internet café with computers that, miraculously, work perfectly. He’s so popular that in high season, you need to book a motorbike 2-3 days in advance (but if he’s out – and he has 40 – he’ll find one for you).

THE BOLAVENS PLATEAU

Plateaus just aren’t my thing – flat-lands! There are some relatively high peaks in the middle, but they’re only accessible by trekking. You can do a small loop from Pakse-Tad Lo-Thateng-Pakson-Pakse, or a big one from Tad Lo to Sekong, then head south to join the Paksong-Pakse road. Starting in the north, the Phu Xam waterfalls are okay (interesting local minority village-museum to the right of the parking lot, and a terrace restaurant above the small falls). Well, they’re on the way, so you might as well see them! After that, a boring road leads to the Tad Lo waterfalls, with tons of small hotels. I chose the big blue house by the river at the right corner of the bridge, the Sipaseth GH, with cute little bungalows in the garden, 4 rooms with balconies overlooking the river, and great food on the terrace facing the falls. **Avoid at all costs**: the Saisee GH, once nice with its little stilt houses by the falls, but now a monument to filth, indifference, and rudeness (confirmed by several people, unanimous on the issue). Luckily, the lovely Tad Lo Lodge, with its bungalows by the falls and gourmet restaurant right above them – not cheap at all – finally built small houses in the woods on the other side for $25.

The next morning, I’d had enough of plateaus, so I took a small loop heading south from Tad Lo to Thateng, and there, a wonder 5 km south of town: the Sinouk Resort. It’s like stepping into *Gone with the Wind* or the Chevalier de Leyritz’s Martinique. In the middle of the Sisouk family’s 34-hectare coffee plantation, a huge garden with three large colonial-style houses: one by the river and pond with a suite + 3 luxury rooms + a small, cozy one for $40 (that’s where I stayed), one with 4 superior rooms for $60, and a very large one overlooking everything with 6 luxury rooms ($60) + 2 huge suites for $90. Of course, it’s all decorated with antique furniture, local knick-knacks, and antiques; there’s a pool, a beautiful restaurant with two terraces, one overlooking a large pond and one by its edge. The food and service are impeccable, and the coffee: from espresso with whipped cream to green tea or wild honey cappuccino… too bad it keeps you up, or you’d sip it all evening (and morning, and afternoon, and in between). In short, a dream!

Back to Pakse via Paksong (what a dump!) and the Tad Fane waterfalls, those are spectacular – twin sisters plunging 200 meters. You can hike down to swim at the bottom (1-hour jungle trek round trip). Across the way, the nice Tad Fane Resort (small houses and a big terrace-restaurant facing the falls).

I think I missed the Katamkok waterfalls, but I don’t believe it – all these falls can’t compare to Ban Gioc Falls in northern Vietnam!!!

CHAMPASAK AND THE 4000 ISLANDS

CHAMPASAK

Even sleepier than Pakse! To avoid the ferry, cross the new Mekong bridge in Pakse, and after about 10 km, turn left at the big "Phaphinoy" sign (the first village in town). When you arrive, turn at the "River Resort" sign. A sumptuous resort on the Mekong, developed with American capital – pure luxury (they even have their own rice field and vegetable garden for the restaurant). Continuing on, you’ll come across the very pleasant Anouxa GH, where I had dinner and stayed. Small bungalows facing the river, garden rooms, and two large wooden houses with huge family rooms + a big terrace on the Mekong, and the food is great! They rent bikes and motorbikes. Further to the right, the pricey Inthira Hotel, which I found uninteresting since it’s on the road instead of by the Mekong. There’s also a Folie Lodge on Don Daeng Island, which I didn’t visit (the word "Folie" is justified: crazy prices, up to $200 and more).

A few nice wats and, of course, Wat Phou, Laos’ most important archaeological site, 10 km south of Champassak in the plains and on the mountainside (the stairs are a killer!). Watch out for the scorching heat, and it closes at 4:30 PM. It’s not Angkor Wat, but it’s still worth the detour. Plan for 2 hours. Entry is 50,000 kips + 5,000 to park your motorbike.

KHIET NGON

To continue south to the 4000 Islands, you have to take the "ferry" (actually fun little things – two canoes joined by a platform; better not mess up when loading your motorbike!). Once on the other side, turn left, and you’ll hit National Road 13 (Pakse-Siphandone, the 4000 Islands), the most boring road I’ve ever been on, like Phnom Penh-Siem Reap – flat and nothing to see. BUT there’s a real gem worth checking out: Kiet Ngon. At Km 48, take the laterite road toward Attapeu (big sign: "Attapeu 155 km") and eat red dust for 8 km (toll: 20,000 kips), then turn right (signposted) onto a good track. You enter the beautiful Xe Pian National Park, where you can still find wild elephants, leopards, and tigers. You arrive at the entrance of the small village of Ban Khiet Ngon. On your right, a small concrete building with 4 decent, cheap rooms (60,000 kips), facing an old wooden house that serves as the tourism office and its "elephant parking" garden. This village is where you can go on an elephant ride (20,000 kips) to the top of Phou Asa, one of the most unusual places I’ve ever seen. You climb through the jungle and emerge onto a flat slate summit, completely bare – it really feels like the Moon! In the distance, an astonishing site built to commemorate a victory by Lao nationalists over Siamese invaders in the 19th century (so the site isn’t 1,000 years old, as the locals claim). A vast archaeological site with an enclosure 180 m by 50 m, marked by 2-meter-high walls and columns made of slate stacked without mortar. At the back, a ruined temple and a tower. Beautiful views of the whole region. Popular with tourists arriving by minibus from Pakse. The elephant rides in a line aren’t my thing, so they tell you it’s forbidden to ride a motorbike, but I did it anyway without any issues – except for the unhappy looks from the mahouts (turn right at the village entrance, sign for "Phou Asa").

If you’ve got the funds, follow the signs for "Kingfisher Lodge" and arrive at Laos’ first ecolodge, developed by a Lao-Italian family. Lovely stilt houses (750,000 kips with breakfast) and 2 bungalows with just fans (250,000 kips). A small two-story wooden building with a restaurant and a terrace by a pond – the bonus: in the evening, wild elephants and buffalo come to drink with you. Booking ahead is recommended since it’s popular with groups from Pakse.

Paper guides also mention the more remote village of Ban Papho, deep in the jungle. There used to be elephant rides, but they’ve stopped. However, there are great treks in the national park (check with the Green Discovery agency in Pakse, which specializes in treks all over Laos).

THE 4000 ISLANDS

You continue on the mind-numbing Road 13 from Pakse and arrive at a brand-new bridge leading to Don Khong Island, where there’s nothing to see except two wats, so if you skip it, you’re not missing much. Next, the Nakasang sign, a small port with mini-ferries crossing the Mekong to Don Det Island. A celebrity, that one – one of those trashy spots for young people who think you can only have fun if you’re wasted on alcohol and drugs. A small street along the river, lined with guesthouses, restaurants, and bars – total chaos! Plus, there’s nothing to see on the island. So, take a tuk-tuk from the jetty, cross the dump, and arrive in a little paradise: Don Khone Island. I planned to stay 2 days but had to be dragged away after 6. A small main village with a dirt road, tons of guesthouses and great restaurants, and lots of beautiful things to see.

For lodging on Don Khone, it’s usually wooden bungalows with river-view terraces. Options range from the elegant and pricey Sala Done Hotel to Somphamit, Pan’s, Pakha GH, and many others. I found my haven away from everything: the little Phonvilay, 3 small bamboo buildings with 2 simple rooms each, terraces above a branch of the Mekong, and a big plus – a small path just to the right that goes down the riverbank, so 3-4 nice swims a day. All for 60,000 kips. To get there, turn right at the end of the bridge until you reach the wat, then take the small path to the river on the right of the wat’s wall.

For food, you’re spoiled for choice. I had all my dinners at the Cordon Bleu of the Fleur du Mékong. I don’t know how she does it, but even the simplest dishes have something extra. She’s famous for her curry (more like a mild stew) of duck or chicken with potatoes and sweet potatoes – a hearty treat. Go for the chicken; Asian ducks are all skin and bones. Her grilled fish is divine!

The island has quite a history: the Mekong upstream is over a kilometer wide (it’s said to reach 14 km during high water) and "falls" onto a rocky barrier. It splits into countless small branches, flowing wherever there’s a crack – hence the 4000 Islands and the impressive rapids. The French discovered this while trying to navigate the Mekong from Saigon to Luang Prabang and China – and bam, impassable! So they built a narrow-gauge railway starting from the south of the island, bypassing the rapids, and ending at the north of Don Det Island. You can see two rusted locomotives, discovered in the jungle in 1990 by a French explorer: one in the southern extension of the bridge and the other in Ban Hang Khone village at the southern tip of the island, both with large English signs and fascinating old photos explaining the whole history of the railway, abandoned when Road 13 was built along the 4000 Islands (the rails were removed, and the railway track is now an excellent trail).

Somphamit Rapids (Li Phi)

Locals call them Li Phi, meaning "the abyss of evil spirits" (the "phi" that Lao people still believe in), because they think the falls and rapids trap spirits, to the point that no one would ever swim there. It’s very dramatic. Entry fee: 35,000 kips. Small beach and a big restaurant with a terrace and thatched-roof tables.

Khon Pa Sai Rapids

A completely different kind, just as spectacular, and less crowded. Turn left at the bridge exit and go to the northern end of the island (Ban Khon Nua village), then continue south until you see a big yellow sign "Khon Pa Sai Waterfalls" pointing to a small path on the left. You arrive at a small suspension bridge with a corner restaurant and terrace where the food is great (I had most of my lunches there). Cross the bridge and follow the path to a spectacular site of falls and rapids. In the middle, you’ll see unique structures – gigantic fish traps over 10 meters long. During high water, each trap can catch up to 500 kg of fish (yes, five hundred) per day.

Ban Hang Khone

This is the "French port" at the southern tip of the island, where the Mekong, after its rapids, spreads out for kilometers – a real inland sea. This is where you can see the famous Irrawaddy dolphins in the morning or late afternoon (boat excursions). To get there, take the trail that was the old railway track, or continue south on the path past the Khon Pa Sai falls (but not by motorbike – the bridge is out). A huge concrete terrace, part of the old port facilities, with a magnificent panoramic view of the Mekong stretching into the distance. Just before, a small path leads to a big beach (with restaurants).

If you go back to Road 13 (or take a pirogue from Don Khone), further south are the Pha Peng Falls, Asia’s highest river falls (15 m). I didn’t go, but they’re said to be spectacular.

Hi there,

I’m heading to the Seychelles in March and I’d like to know how far in advance it’s best to book the boat transfers from Mahé to Praslin round-trip. Should I also book the transfers between Praslin and La Digue in advance, or can I just grab them on the day?