Côte albanaise en train ou bus?
by Peel
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je souhaite me rendre en Albanie en Juillet en arrivant par la côte du Montenegro, afin de descendre jusqu'en Grèce en longeant la côte albanaise. Je voulais savoir si c'était possible en train, voire en bus sans trop de problème. Si oui, comment ça passe? quel prix faut-il prévoir?
De plus, j'ai lu que la côte sud (la "riviera") était touristique mais qu'en est-il du reste de la côte ? Est-ce facile de se loger, en hotel ou camping?
Merci!
je me pause un peu les mêmes questions !
our une fois, internet offre très peu d'infos, notamment sur les campings en albanie...
our une fois, internet offre très peu d'infos, notamment sur les campings en albanie...
Ben
Bonjour
En train: NO WAY. De Tirana (à moins que des rails aient été installé depuis mon passage en 2002) ont peut alléer vers Dürres et le Nord. Je n'ai utilisé que la liaison Tirana/Dürres mais mon souvenir est celui d'un train dans un état pitoyable et lent (quoique pittoresque diront certains). EN minibus c'est possible. La riviera est "touristique" dans une certaine mesure. DEs albanais et qques italiens.(en fin en 2002) Pour ce loger nous n'avions aucun problème, il y avaient plein de truc flambants neufs, et des restes d'Albatourist (moins que moyen) Un détail, il faisait TRES chaud et pas de clim. Nico5
En train: NO WAY. De Tirana (à moins que des rails aient été installé depuis mon passage en 2002) ont peut alléer vers Dürres et le Nord. Je n'ai utilisé que la liaison Tirana/Dürres mais mon souvenir est celui d'un train dans un état pitoyable et lent (quoique pittoresque diront certains). EN minibus c'est possible. La riviera est "touristique" dans une certaine mesure. DEs albanais et qques italiens.(en fin en 2002) Pour ce loger nous n'avions aucun problème, il y avaient plein de truc flambants neufs, et des restes d'Albatourist (moins que moyen) Un détail, il faisait TRES chaud et pas de clim. Nico5
Bonjour! On organise (nous sommes 15 collegues) une visite d'Albania fin juin. Apres le lac d'Ohrid on va faire Tirana, Kruja, Shkodra (et le lac Shkodra que je connais cote Montenegro - magnifique!!!). On va quitter le nord pour aller (via Durres, Berat) nous planter a Dharmi (entre Vlora et Saranda) - c'est bien au sud et la plage est superbelle. On nous a dit qu'au nord la mer n'est ni chaude, ni propre! Il y a apres une belle perspective d'aller se promener a Corfu (Greece) par le ferry Saranda-Corfu, visiter Butrint, etc Je vous passe quelques images d'Albania faites par un membre actif du mon forum Voyage en Bulgarie. Moi-meme je cherche toujours de l'info, malgre que notre plan touristique est deja bien elabore.
http://clubs.dir.bg/...w=collapsed&sb=5
Vous pouvez aussi conseiller le site:
http://www.albanian.com/...s/albania/index.html
Bonne journee!
http://clubs.dir.bg/...w=collapsed&sb=5
Vous pouvez aussi conseiller le site:
http://www.albanian.com/...s/albania/index.html
Bonne journee!
royak
bonjour Royak! L'année dernière nous avons traversé l'Albanie d'est en ouest, du lac d'Orhid jusqu'à durres. C'était vraiment fabuleux, par contre renseignez-vous sur les routes que vous allez prendre et ne vous fiez pas toujours aux cartes routières. Par exemple pour aller du lac d'orhid à Gramsh (un peu avant Elbasan) nous avons mis toute une journée en voiture? Dont huits heures passées sur 70 km entre Maliq et Gramsh sur une piste caillouteuse de montagne, magnifique mais interminable. Prévoyez donc toujours de quoi manger et de l'essence en réserve. Si vous êtes motivés et que vous aimez les endroits sauvages, allez-y!
librairie spécialisée voyage à Lille:
http://www.autourdumonde-lille.com/
en albanie j'y etais en 2001. ne pas trop compter sur les trains. par contre des minibus y'en a un paquet et pour tout les trajets. logement pas de pb non-plus surtout a Durres, si on paye en devise. moi j'ai payer 20usd le single propre.
aucun probleme de securite. soyez tranquille.
Merci flm pour l'info! On est vraiment motives d'aller au sud d'Albanie via lac d'Ohrid et en passant d'abord par le lac Shkodra. J'ai fait la cote Montenegro du lac il y a 15 jours et j'en etais vraiment ravie. Esperont que la decouverte de ce coin de la mer Adriatique (voir aussi Ionien) sera agreable. Notre petit groupe touristique adore la Mediterranee et chaque annee on en fait des portions. Fin mai on ira d'abord en Turquie (a Marmaris et a Rodes) pour "ouvrir" les plages, on fera apres Foca (la patrie des ancertes - Marseille - Nice - etc - en en revenant en Bulgarie on va revoir le plan - Albanie - definitif. Amicalement!
royak
salut
Je suis albanaise et je suis désolée mais la coté c'est pas possible en train. Les bus sont le moyen de transport le plus repandu et tu peux arriver partout. Tu vas partir de Montenegro? Je te consigne à Shkodra il y a la plage de Velipoja(Très belle), ensuite à Durres c'est la plage de Golem, puis à Vlora tu a le gout du choix, c'est merveilleux. En fait je te consigne d'entrer en Grece par la douane de Sarande, comme ça tu peux voir la Riviera qui est la plus belle partie de la côté albanaise. Donc de Vlora à Saranda en bus, le long de ce trajet tu aura les plus belles plages, Himara et Dhermi. Saranda est aussi très belle et a des plages fantastiques. Tu vas voir. J'espère de t'avoir aidé un peu.
Dush
Je suis albanaise et je suis désolée mais la coté c'est pas possible en train. Les bus sont le moyen de transport le plus repandu et tu peux arriver partout. Tu vas partir de Montenegro? Je te consigne à Shkodra il y a la plage de Velipoja(Très belle), ensuite à Durres c'est la plage de Golem, puis à Vlora tu a le gout du choix, c'est merveilleux. En fait je te consigne d'entrer en Grece par la douane de Sarande, comme ça tu peux voir la Riviera qui est la plus belle partie de la côté albanaise. Donc de Vlora à Saranda en bus, le long de ce trajet tu aura les plus belles plages, Himara et Dhermi. Saranda est aussi très belle et a des plages fantastiques. Tu vas voir. J'espère de t'avoir aidé un peu.
Dush
Le bus est ce qu'il y a de plus pratique et peu cher. Je ne connais pas cette route particulièrement mais j'ai fait Pristina-Tirana par bus de nuit à travers les montagnes du nord... ce n'est pas de tout repos mais on y arrive!
Je confirme pour le sud de l'Albanie où la côte est selon beaucoup d'avis magnifique. Je connais plutôt le sud-est dans les terres donc cela ne va pas vous avancer.
Klaruna
Tu prends le ferry Bari-Durres ???
Je vais le prendre vers le 24 juillet, cet été.
As-tu déjà réservé ? Combien payes-tu ?
Je vais le prendre vers le 24 juillet, cet été.
As-tu déjà réservé ? Combien payes-tu ?
Ben
Klaruna
La rue ça va comme toutes les rues en Albanie d'ailleurs.😄 Ce qui me préoccupe est le trajet. Si tu voyages pendant le jour il n'y a aucun problème. Toute marchera bien je t'assure. Mais évite de le faire pendant la nuit, je te le déconseille totalement. Etpas de stop, à aucun personne. En fait je ne vis plus la bas, mais ma famille m'a dit que le nouveau gouvernement, est en train de faire beaucoup concernant le crime. Donc je pense que ça va. Ne te préoccupe pas totu va aller pour le mieux. mais je pense qu'il fallait te prévenir. ok bon voyage
bye
La rue ça va comme toutes les rues en Albanie d'ailleurs.😄 Ce qui me préoccupe est le trajet. Si tu voyages pendant le jour il n'y a aucun problème. Toute marchera bien je t'assure. Mais évite de le faire pendant la nuit, je te le déconseille totalement. Etpas de stop, à aucun personne. En fait je ne vis plus la bas, mais ma famille m'a dit que le nouveau gouvernement, est en train de faire beaucoup concernant le crime. Donc je pense que ça va. Ne te préoccupe pas totu va aller pour le mieux. mais je pense qu'il fallait te prévenir. ok bon voyage
bye
Il n'y a pour l'instant aucun train qui permette non seulement de relier l'Albanie au moindre pays limitrophe, et comme il est dit, les trains sont lents et dans un état moyenageux. Mais ça peut être une bonne expérience, mais ne soyez pas pressés, mais risque de panne possible, les trains peuvent partir à l'heure, mais pour l'heure d'arrivée, on oublie, c'est pas important. Toutefois, les trains pour Durrës, de Tirana, sont, on va dire, corrects.
Il existe des trains en partance de Tirana pour Shkoder au nord, Elbasan pour le sud-est, Vlora pour le sud, donc plus près de la côte.
Conseil : les minibus, et plus vous allez loin, plus ils partent tôt, voire... très tôt. Mais vous pouvez aller partout. Les prix ne sont pas prohibitifs, mais prévoir d'avoir sur soi des LEK.
Il existe des bus qui partent de Tirana pour Saranda, qui est l'une des villes les plus proches de la Grèce, tout en longeant la côte albanaise, et peut-être existe t-il des bus pour continuer vers la Grèce via Delvinë, mais la frontière albano-grecque est toujours source de tensions. Toutefois, l'Albanie côté sud, les gens sont adorables le plus souvent et vous trouverez sans doute une âme charitable qui vous amènera direction la Grèce. Mais c'est l'aventure !
Il existe des trains en partance de Tirana pour Shkoder au nord, Elbasan pour le sud-est, Vlora pour le sud, donc plus près de la côte.
Conseil : les minibus, et plus vous allez loin, plus ils partent tôt, voire... très tôt. Mais vous pouvez aller partout. Les prix ne sont pas prohibitifs, mais prévoir d'avoir sur soi des LEK.
Il existe des bus qui partent de Tirana pour Saranda, qui est l'une des villes les plus proches de la Grèce, tout en longeant la côte albanaise, et peut-être existe t-il des bus pour continuer vers la Grèce via Delvinë, mais la frontière albano-grecque est toujours source de tensions. Toutefois, l'Albanie côté sud, les gens sont adorables le plus souvent et vous trouverez sans doute une âme charitable qui vous amènera direction la Grèce. Mais c'est l'aventure !
Salut Dush,
Merci pour tes infos sur ce blog ... Je suis moitie Grec-moitie Suisse, j'ai vecu 18 ans a Geneve pas loin de chez toi ...
La, j'habite Athenes et je l'intention de conduire depuis Athenes jusqu'au Montenegro en passant par la cote Adriatique Albanaise ...
Je suis quelqu'un qui a pas mal voyage et qui adore faire cela sans trop se poser des questions ... J'apprecierais tout de meme savoir par une Albanaise comme toi si certaines rumeurs (peut etre infondees) sont vraies ou pas ... A savoir " 1) Est-il dangereux de se faire voler la voiture (petite voiture de turisme, rien de luxieux) 2) Est-il vrai qu'il faut se mefier des flics parce qu'ils essayent de coincer les turistes afin de leur soustraire de l'argent ? 3) Y a-t-il autre chose dont tu penses que tu devrais m'informer ?
En te remerciant d'avance ..., je te souhaite bonnes vacnaces
Amicalement Oliver
Merci pour tes infos sur ce blog ... Je suis moitie Grec-moitie Suisse, j'ai vecu 18 ans a Geneve pas loin de chez toi ...
La, j'habite Athenes et je l'intention de conduire depuis Athenes jusqu'au Montenegro en passant par la cote Adriatique Albanaise ...
Je suis quelqu'un qui a pas mal voyage et qui adore faire cela sans trop se poser des questions ... J'apprecierais tout de meme savoir par une Albanaise comme toi si certaines rumeurs (peut etre infondees) sont vraies ou pas ... A savoir " 1) Est-il dangereux de se faire voler la voiture (petite voiture de turisme, rien de luxieux) 2) Est-il vrai qu'il faut se mefier des flics parce qu'ils essayent de coincer les turistes afin de leur soustraire de l'argent ? 3) Y a-t-il autre chose dont tu penses que tu devrais m'informer ?
En te remerciant d'avance ..., je te souhaite bonnes vacnaces
Amicalement Oliver
pour les côtes albanaise, j'ai fait que Durres. facile pour se loger, environ 20$. par contre au nivo bouffe, peut mieux faire.
les mini-bus vont partout, donc aucun problème à ce niveau et les prix sont pas cher. ex: tirana-elbasan 6 francs (2001)
Quelle solution de transport (avion, bus eurolines, train) jusque là-bas vous conseillez depuis le sud de la France (Montpellier) ?
Quels guides as-tu trouvé à part le Petit Futé et lequel sors du lot ?
Comment t'es-tu déplacé sur place : bus, taxi, vélos ? Qq prix repères (une course de taxi, et des trajets entre grandes villes) pour avoir un ordre d'idée…
Des hotels "point-de-chutte" bon marché à conseiller dans les qq grandes villes ?
IMPORTANT : quels sont les plus beaux coins pour aller marcher 1 semaine ou 2 ? Je pense plus au montagne qu' à la côte où apparement il fait très chaud.
Une réponse rapide m'interesse parce que le départ à deux est imminent. Les billets ne sont pas encore pris…
Une réponse rapide m'interesse parce que le départ à deux est imminent. Les billets ne sont pas encore pris…
Lionel
- > 2013-2015 : Me Gusta mucho este pais - voyage en camping-car en famille en Amérique, de Ushuaia à Montreal
- > Lac Song Kol en Kirghizie
point de chute à tirana: un hotel derrière l'opéra de tirana. très central. 20$ il y'a 5 ans.
quand on est en face de l'opéra, prendre la rue gauche qui va derrière l'opéra, et c'est à 20 m. le nom je me rappelle plus.
pour durres, nombreux hotels. mais demander dans la rue, on peut tj trouver un logement chez l'habitant
pour durres, nombreux hotels. mais demander dans la rue, on peut tj trouver un logement chez l'habitant
bonjour,
je découvre tardivement votre message. J'ai fait en 2006 toute la côte albanaise et me suis également arrêté à Dhermi. La route vers la Grèce est extrêmement difficile! Je souhaite vous demander si la route entre Tirana et Orhid est praticable sans trop de difficultés puisque je compte l'emprunter cette année pour me rendre ensuite en Grèce. Merci de vos conseils.
Jean-Paul le bail
J. P. L. B.
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I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
It was while traveling like this—what I call "hitting the road the slow way"—that I realized something simple: our neighbors' neighbors are very clearly our neighbors too. And that’s not insignificant.
Proof: https://etreounepasetrebretillien.com/2018/03/19/moldova-mea/ 🤓
After a break of a few years, I’m planning to hit the road again in September, this time heading to Kosovo, crossing through Bosnia-Herzegovina and Montenegro.
Having gotten a bit older, I’ve no intention of rushing—no need to speed ahead of the music! 😄
I’d rather take my time.
I’m not looking to see everything, but to soak in the atmosphere of the places, always leaving room for the unexpected and for encounters.
I’m especially drawn to culturally immersive, authentic, and welcoming regions: lively villages, backroads, preserved landscapes, markets, local festivals, traditions that are still very much alive... and, why not, a few offbeat, forgotten, or slightly secret spots.
If any of you know Bosnia-Herzegovina, Montenegro, or Kosovo a little, I’d love to hear your suggestions for itineraries, stops, backroads, homestays, village festivals, or local contacts, for example.
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Planning to return to Belarus in mid-August, I just realized that since last September, Poland has reopened several border crossing points, and for buses, this means connections like Białystok-Grodno.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
The official Polish page: https://granica.gov.pl/index_wait.php?p=b&c=t&v=pl&k=w

Several bus company routes, like on infobus.eu, take between 3 and 4 hours. Trains from Warsaw to Białystok take about 1.5 to 2 hours. This has the advantage of allowing comfortable train journeys with minimal time spent on a bus. Also, the Terespol-Brest border might have shorter queues if you still prefer a Warsaw-Brest bus.
Note that another route to Minsk, if you have a paper Russian or Belarusian visa, is the Kaliningrad-Minsk train. It’s long—around ten or eleven hours—but you can lie down and sleep. An option if you fly into Gdańsk and then take a short bus to Kaliningrad.
There are also Belavia flights from Minsk to Kaliningrad, but they’re expensive. The route is scenic:

In any case, this adds a few more options compared to what’s been available over the last four years.
Hi there.
I’d like to know what the daily budget is for Greece in December. I’ll be landing in Athens and staying there for a week, then heading to some other islands—I don’t have a set itinerary yet. Also, I’ve heard that in December, or early January, the temperature is around 11–16°C. Is that accurate?
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
Finally, does anyone have a good recommendation for a cheap but clean hotel near the tourist sites? I don’t need a TV or any other extras. Also, is Greece gay-friendly?
Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards
hi
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
I’d like to know the opening hours of physical stores between Germany and Austria, and between Austria and Slovenia, that sell the PAPER STICKER toll vignettes that still exist for 2026—non-digital ones. I don’t think they’re open 24/7, and I can’t find the info anywhere. Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week trip in late September with our camper van to explore Bulgaria and Romania.
What routes would you recommend, starting from the South?
Is there an option to take a ferry in Italy, and is it worth it?
Thanks for all your tips!😊
Hi there, we’re a young couple and we’d love to go to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kalter) between today (26/06/26) and tomorrow (27/06/26).
Is anyone heading there and could give us a ride? We’re super friendly!
Thanks so much!
Maya and Sullivan
Maya and Sullivan
We're back. It's still a bit tough to get precise info, so here's a quick trip report!
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
A good starting point is Shkoder, a really pleasant city. You can easily explore Shkoder itself in a day or two.
Two accessible spots: Valbona and Theth. In both cases, local travel agencies in Shkoder or online offer round-trip or one-way access packages. Super handy, especially for Valbona.
Valbona and Theth are both very steep! There aren’t many easy hikes for less sporty folks (like me!).
Valbona: The highlight is the amazing 2.5-hour boat ride across Lake Koman. There are day trips from Shkoder, but you’ll only get a short tour of the lake. The best option is to do the full crossing—so spend a night in Valbona (or two if you want to hike in the valley) and return.
Theth is deeply nestled in the mountains. The village at the end of the valley, which is a dead end, has lots of hotels, but they’re pricey. Other hostels are scattered along the mountainside road, but it’s a steep climb down to the village or to the start of the two easy hikes (waterfalls and the Blue Eye). For us, it was a one-hour descent (and ascent!). It’s fine if you have a car; otherwise, keep an eye out for a taxi (cheap) or try hitchhiking—it works really well. Access from Shkoder to Theth is through an agency. The road is in great condition, and you can also rent a car for 2-3 days in Shkoder. If we did it again, that’s the option we’d choose.
We didn’t do the trek and returned to Shkoder each time. I can’t speak to its difficulty, but we were there in late May, and even experienced hikers had given up because of heavy rain and snow.
Hope this helps! It’s a stunning region you shouldn’t miss.
We’re a Canadian couple, both 77, and we’re already planning our vacation for fall 2027.
Timeframe: mid-September to mid-October... dates are flexible, and we might stay even longer.
Initially, I had planned this itinerary:
Athens (3), Naxos (4), Paros (4), Santorini (4), then a flight to Istanbul (7–10 days!!). This would let us maximize our flights and experience another culture.
That’s a lot of ferries, though... I’ve already cut out Milos.
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Our second option would be to stay 2 x 15 days on two different islands, but I’d still keep Istanbul as our next destination... or maybe 30 days on one island that offers the chance to take day trips to other islands where the ferry ride is no more than 2 to 2.5 hours. For example, Naxos to Paros only takes 30 minutes. We could return the same evening or stay overnight.
Naxos seems like the best option!!!
For Istanbul, of course we want to do a day cruise on the Bosphorus and see Hagia Sophia. If we stay 6–7 days, what would be the other main attractions? Are there any points of interest we can reach by local bus?
Hi there!
We bought our tickets to Greece at the end of November 2025, and let’s just say the geopolitical climate has really taken a turn since then with the war started by the United States against Iran. Not to mention all the other conflicts happening around the world 😕... Anyway!
Our flight from Montreal is on May 1st, and I was wondering how things are currently being experienced in Greece.
We were planning to rent a car and had already booked accommodations on three Cyclades islands!!
The oil shortage is also worrying us...
If you could share some insights on this, that would be great!
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
A little trip report from an 11-day journey to Albania at the end of April 2026, with two friends in their early sixties and beyond...
Our route: Berat, Gjirokastër, Himarë, Tirana
Here are some opinions, tips, and great deals to share:
Flight Round-trip Beauvais-Tirana: Ryanair, 260 € with checked baggage (20 kg) and seat selection. Flight was fine and on time. 2h 30min flight.
Exchange: 1 € was worth 95 lek in April 2026. We were advised to exchange in the airport hall at the Illiria counter (98 lek outside the security zone), saying we wouldn’t find a better rate. However, the exchange rate was 93 lek for 1 euro, while in the city it was 95...
Car rental at Tirana airport for 9 days via Booking.com: 144 € (56 € for the car rental and 88 € for optional full insurance deductible waiver).
Wheego agency: the car was fine, but be careful when signing the contract—they tried to convince us that the insurance taken through Booking didn’t cover everything and insisted we take their own insurance for 250 €... We refused.
After reading about driving in Tirana, instead of starting our trip by visiting the capital, we decided to head straight to Berat upon arrival and return the car at the end of the trip to explore the city on foot. This turned out to be a great choice!
Accommodations: All our stays were booked via Booking.com. Everyone prefers to be paid in euros and in cash—they mention this when booking.
Berat: 2-hour drive from the airport.
Accommodation: Vila Arben Elezi: 135 € for 3 nights with breakfast and private parking. The room was decent and clean but a bit dark, located slightly below ground level near the parking. However, the breakfast on the rooftop was excellent, especially with the stunning view of the "city of a thousand windows." Great location.
Berat was our favorite—there are lovely walks through the different neighborhoods on both sides of the river, each with a very different vibe. The citadel visit is also fascinating, as it’s like a small town within the fortress.
The walk along the river is pleasant, with plenty of restaurant choices. Other restaurants in the old town are also very nice. The White House Restaurant, on the first floor along the road, is good and offers a great view of the Gorica district.
Gjirokastër:
Accommodation: Te Ajdini Guest House: 120 € for 3 nights with breakfast. A private home stay. There’s free parking just before entering the city, a 5-minute walk from the accommodation, which is very convenient since the cobblestone streets are narrow and parking is tricky. Yes, it’s a climb to get to the place, but everything in this city is uphill... The room was bright and clean. Breakfast was very good, hearty, and served in the courtyard with a view of the castle. The guesthouse is a 5-minute walk from the city center (the bazaar) but in a quiet area.
Restaurants: Rrapi and Kujtimi—good and affordable with their little pergolas.
The old town of Gjirokastër is charming but very touristy, with streets packed with souvenir shops and restaurant tables and chairs. Lots of people.
-The bunker visit (near the tourist office) is very interesting: Cold War Tunnel.
The castle offers a beautiful view of the city.
-Visit to the Ottoman house Skenduli: very well done. Don’t forget to climb the ladder facing a trapdoor in the ceiling to see the roof’s framework—it’s like a forest of beams: impressive!
-The bridge Ura e Ali Pasha: A steep 45-minute climb from the city to the site is worth it, but once you reach the viewpoint (which is stunning), you have to go back down a path to reach the bridge. You can drive to the viewpoint, but parking is very tricky.
Around Gjirokastër:
-Just outside the city: Lake Liqeni i Viroit: a nice, ordinary-looking lake, but at the end, there’s a natural spring making the water crystal clear and a brilliant blue—really spectacular, like photos of Blue Eye near Sarandë.
-Drive to Përmet along the gorges: beautiful viewpoints along the way and lovely countryside.
Himarë:
Accommodation: Vila Kosteli: 120 € for 2 nights with breakfast—slightly overpriced for this type of place but very close to a small beach and not far from the promenade with all the restaurants. Private parking, but very tight (4 cars on a tiny lot along the road). The "sea view" room is a bit obstructed by the building across the street. However, the rooftop breakfast view is beautiful. Friendly staff.
Himarë is a pleasant seaside resort, quite calm (but it was April...). There’s a cute promenade with restaurants along the beach. The castle on the heights of Himarë is worth a visit.
Around Himarë:
-Qeparo is worth a quick stop, but Qeparo village is really worth the detour: a village lost in the heights after a scenic drive up from the coastal road—narrow but well-maintained. Beautiful view from the top and a charming village.
-The Big Bunker and Llogora Panorama: take a right turn several kilometers after Dhermi—a road that climbs steeply from the start... A breathtaking winding road that reaches 900 meters in altitude. The view is stunning.
-Several small villages between Dhermi and Himarë are worth a quick stop.
-Porto Palermo Castle is somewhat disappointing.
Tirana:
Taxi from Tirana airport to the city center: 15 € with electric taxis (Green Taxi, Bee Taxi, Do Taxi).
Accommodation: Hotel Nevi Apartment: 63 € for 2 nights. A private apartment in an older building but very clean and well-equipped, with a kitchen and small enclosed balcony.
Great welcome and contact—the owner even booked a taxi for our departure. Very well located, close to the main square, shops, and restaurants. A small supermarket nearby is perfect for stocking up on breakfast supplies.
The city is lively and dynamic, with plenty of green spaces and promenades. Buildings are popping up everywhere, often with surprising architecture—like a building shaped like a face, a huge golden cube, and many others under construction.
-Sky Tower: at the top, a rotating bar offers a 360° view of the city and its buildings. Drinks are a bit pricier than usual, but it’s totally worth it (6 € for a beer or a glass of white wine, 3 € for coffee). We were there for sunset, and it was amazing! A must-do. Arrive early, as it fills up quickly.
-The House of Leaves: a house used for secret surveillance and interrogations during the dictatorship... A great way to learn about the surveillance systems of that era.
-Bunk’Art 2: a bunker in the heart of the city—very interesting, covering the dictatorship period and its system...
-The Pazari i Ri Bazaar: the new bazaar district. The large hall is worth a visit, but souvenir prices are often higher than elsewhere... The area is nice.
Restaurant: Kastrati Restaurant—a bit like a canteen with lots of traditional dishes. It’s on the first floor of a building. Excellent value for money, and the waitress explains the dishes in French.
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
That’s a little overview of our trip and my personal impressions! Albania is a beautiful and pleasant country to visit. If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
What are the main sights to visit on Rhodes itself or the surrounding islands, and what’s the weather like? We’re leaving on May 18th.
Hi everyone,
We’re thinking of spending 3 weeks in Crete between mid-August and early September, renting a car, quickly exploring a few spots in the east, and focusing on the west, southwest, and south.
I’m worried about the heavy tourist crowds. Is it really more noticeable than elsewhere in Greece? Is there a way to avoid the crowds without missing out on the iconic places, which I imagine are stunning in Crete? Thanks for your thoughts and experiences!
Hi,
I'm heading to Greece via Albania soon. Does anyone have info on transportation from Gjirokastër to Ioannina?
Which company, fares, and schedules—it's not very clear with Google.
Thanks!
Patrice
Thanks!
Patrice
Hi everyone,
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city. I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint Visit the Baroque gardens St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit National Theatre Discover the Cumil statues Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie Michael’s Gate Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid Head down to the Blue Church Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge There you go—10 km and a packed day! What do you think?
Thanks, Stéphane.
I’m just passing through Bratislava quickly (one afternoon, one night, one morning) and I’d love to see the highlights of the city. I’ve put together a little itinerary—feel free to let me know what you think!
Start at the castle and its beautiful viewpoint Visit the Baroque gardens St. Martin’s Cathedral, quick visit National Theatre Discover the Cumil statues Primatial Palace via Hlavné Namestie Michael’s Gate Grassalkovich Palace via Obchodna Walk across Namesti Slobody to head back to the upside-down pyramid Head down to the Blue Church Cross the Danube to see Sad Janka Krala, then return via the UFO Bridge There you go—10 km and a packed day! What do you think?
Thanks, Stéphane.





