Bonjour,
Après avoir visité la Namibie à 2 reprises, nous envisageons pour août 2019 ( on est prévoyants....)un nouveau circuit en partie sur le Sud Namibie et le reste en Afrique du Sud.
Nous envisageons de fonctionner comme l'an passé, en grande partie en lodges mais avec quelques nuits en camping ( 4x4 avec tentes sur le toit ).
Voilà ce que donne le premier jet :
J1 Windhoek ou étape intermédiaire selon horaire du vol
J2-3 Namibrand Family Hideout - on a adoré le TTT ...
J4-5 Klein Aus Vista - visite Lûderitz + Kolmantshop notamment
J6 Fish River Canyon - Canon Lodge.
J7 Mesosaurus Camp.
J8-9-10 KTP - Quels camps me conseillez vous?
J11 Augrabies
J12-13 Namaqualand- Vaut-il mieux loger assez près de Springbok ou Namaqua campsite près de l'océan? Je n'ai pas idée de la taille du parc
J14-15 Cederberg
J16 à 20 Le Cap avec 1 jour dans les vignobles
J 21 Hermanus
J22 Départ...
Je me pose quand même des questions sur la cohérence de l'ensemble et le rythme.
Ne vaudrait-il pas mieux se cantonner à l'AFS ou limiter au mini la Namibie, cad soit un circuit qui supprime les 5 premiers jours qu'on replace entre KTP et Le Cap, soit un circuit qui supprime les 7 premiers jours qu'on remet dans une autre zone géographique ( Kruger + réserves privées + Blyde River par exemple )?
En gros, c'est très ouvert pour le moment...
Merci de vos suggestions.
Jacques
Nous sommes en pleine préparation d'un voyage Le Cap - KTP - Namibie - Le Cap pour Août 2018. Mes suggestions sont donc seulement basées sur ma préparation, pas sur du vécu!
Vu le circuit prévu, arriver à Windhoek n'est pas peut-être pas nécessaire. en fait, une boucle avec départ et arrivée au Cap me paraît mieux pour plusieurs raisons.
1. les locations de voiture sont beaucoup moins chères en Afrique du Sud qu'en Namibie. Pour nous, la différence (en comptant frais de dépôt de la voiture si on partait d'un pays et repartait de l'autre) allait presque du simple au double.
2. Partir et revenir du Cap permettrait de voir différentes parties de l'Afrique du Sud en faisant une vraie boucle. Intérieur (Cederberg et/ou Karoo, Augrabies, KTP) en montant, ensuite votre tour en Namibie, puis en suivant la côte avec Fish River/Orange River/Namaqualand/West Coast NP en redescendant.
3. Apparemment, la période des fleurs au Namaqualand/West Coast NP est de mi-Août à mi-Septembre, donc le mieux serait de prévoir d'y être en fin de voyage.
Première suggestion avec un 4x4 et une location de frigo mais pas de tentes sur le toit :
vol sur JNB nuit 1
Vol intérieur sur Upington, location du 4x4, route pour Augrabies nuit 2 et 3
Route pour le KTP, Kieliekrankie nuit 4
KTP, Grootkolk nuit 5
KTP, Bitterpan, nuit 6
KTP, Kalahari tented camp nuit 7
Route vers Mesosaurus nuit 8
Départ très matinal , Route vers Fish river, Canyon Lodge nuit 9
Départ matinal, Route vers Richtersveld NP, Tatasberg nuit 10
Richtersveld NP, Route vers Gannakouriep nuit 11
Route vers Goegap NR , Springbok nuit 12
Route vers Namaqua nuit 13 et 14
Route vers Cederberg nuit 15 et 16
Route vers vignes via Bain's kloof pass nuit 17
Retour du 4x4 au Cap - Prise en charge d'un véhicule classique- Ville péninsule Baleines nuits 18 19 20 21
Avec 4x4 et tentes.
vol sur JNB nuit 1
Vol intérieur sur Upington, location du 4x4, route pour Augrabies nuit 2 et 3
Route pour le KTP, Rooiputs nuit 4 (wild campsite)
KTP, Polentswa nuit 5 (wild campsite)
KTP, Bitterpan, nuit 6
KTP, Kalahari tented camp nuit 7
Route vers Mesosaurus nuit 8
Départ très matinal , Route vers Fish river, Canyon Lodge nuit 9
Départ matinal, Route vers Richtersveld NP, Richtersberg nuit 10 (campsite)
Richtersveld NP, Route vers Gannakouriep nuit 11
Route vers Goegap NR , Springbok nuit 12
Route vers Namaqua nuit 13 et 14 en campsite
Route vers Cederberg nuit 15 et 16 campsite ou logde
Route vers vignes via Bain's kloof pass nuit 17
Retour du 4x4 au Cap - Prise en charge d'un véhicule classique- Ville péninsule Baleines nuits 18 19 20 21
Ayant été dans le sud Namibie et la façade Ouest de l'AFS en 2 voyages de 3 semaines...le premier jet de parcours ne m'enthousiasmait pas (ce n'est que mon opinion).
La proposition de Mme Attila est très élégante car le vol vers Upington fait gagner du temps et zappe une parte namibienne.
J'aurais quelques craintes sur le Namaqua en fonction de votre date de passage et de la météo, le Namaqua sans fleurs c'est moins fun.
Quid de mes Augrabies chéries ? D'un séjour un poil plus long (mais surtout moins wild) du bord de l'Orange, d'un petit détour final vers la côte de Paternoster et du Wild Coast NP ?
Donc ?
Soit effectivement un vol vers Upington et un voyage, à mon sens, un poil chargé qui pourrait s'inspirer de la proposition d'Attila.
Soit carrément choisir entre Namibie et AFS...ce que j'avais fait.
Dans un trip Plein sud + KTP dans un cas et un arc de cercle CT vers Joburg dans le second (en finissant dans les réserves à l'Ouest de Joburg).
Bon ben voilà...
C'est pour 2019 ? Il y a le temps de la réflexion...quoique pour le KTP faudra veiller au grain !
Merci Attila
Je me doutais que les spécialistes allaient corriger le tir....
Dans le circuit que tu proposes, pas trop de conduite délicate en 4x4? Mon expérience à ce niveau se limite à Purros et les 5 km/h de sable de SOssusvlei...
Jacques
Merci Michel
Je vais m’inspirer de tes 3 périples ( j’ai lu les carnets en diagonale ces derniers jours, je vais y passer plus de temps ) et tenir compte de tes remarques.
Moi non plus mon premier jet ne me convient pas vraiment ( les 2 jours dans le Namib Rand me bloquent mais je crois que je vais laisser tomber )...
Jacques
Dans le circuit que tu proposes, pas trop de conduite délicate en 4x4?
La partie délicate est la piste pour bitterpan.
Du sable et des dunes.
Le richtersveld est plutôt en cailloux. Rien de technique. Faut juste éviter de suivre la piste le long de l orange très sableuse quand on ne maîtrise pas et qu on voyage à un véhicule. (Ok pour le bout vers Tatasberg)
Je suis plutôt prudente et ça me paraît tout à fait Ok.
Bonjour,
Je programme notre 3ème voyage en Namibie, cette fois-ci le Sud + le KTP, pour le mois d’octobre 2018.
Contrairement à mes habitudes, j’ai commencé par réserver les hébergements dès octobre 2017, avant les vols. Parce que des vols, on en trouve toujours!😏
Bilan : sachant que les réservations pour le KTP s’ouvrent 11 mois à l’avance, et que je m’y suis attaquée dès l’ouverture, devinez? La moitié des hébergements KTP étaient déjà complets. Plus une place dans les « petits » camps ( Wild) et encore quelques disponibilités dans les « gros », moyennant quelques motifs de mon projet, translations et permutations, j’ai pu obtenir quelques nuits. C’est du sport!
Donc, même pour 2019, commencez à guetter 12 mois à l’avance, et suivez les dates de début de réservations au jour le jour... ou presque! Et soyez prêts à beaucoup de souplesse...
Bonne préparation,
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
Merci Chris
C’est encore plus compliqué que je ne le pensais!
Je vais suivre tes conseils; y a t’il un site unique pour réserver l’ensemble des camps?
Jacques
Je savais que c'était 11 mois à l'avance, mais ce n'est pas exactement 11 mois, ça peut être un peu avant.
Il faut faire un compte à rebours!🙂
Si tu commences à te connecter 12 mois avant, et regardant les disponibilités sur les parcs qui t'intéressent, à un moment ils vont indiquer une date de départ. Par exemple, moi c'était pour début octobre, ils ont affiché "23 octobre"pour le début des résas.
Je me suis connectée le 24 (difficile, en décalage horaire, car j'étais sur la côte ouest de l'Australie!!!) et ... je me suis arraché les cheveux!
Tu es pratiquement sûr d'avoir des places à Twee Rivieren et à Mata Mata.
Nossob aussi, en principe. K. Tented Camp et Bitterpan, c'est plus aléatoire. Le reste... relève du miracle!
Je suis revenue voir à mon retour (mi novembre) : Tout était complet sur octobre.🤪
Sidérant! Mais il paraît que les Sud'Afsréservent d'une année sur l'autre, et puis il y a des agences qui bloquent des nuits...
Il faudra aussi t'enregistrer (créer un compte) mais ça, ce n'est pas difficile.
Attention à ne pas commettre d'erreur, car les annulations sont taxées.
Allez, bonne chance!
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
Comme indiqué comme Titaille, les réservations se font par Sanparks et, pour le KTP, le 1er jour et à la première heure où cela est possible :
All booking requests are only accepted 11 months or less in advance.
Bookings for the 11th month are opened on the 1st working day of each new month.
Les sud africains campent quasi sur place devant les bureaux à en attendre l'ouverture et les petits camps se remplissent en à peine une poignée d'heures particulièrement Urikaarus.
Les trois camps principaux ne posent pas de problèmes si on s'y prend rapidement, surtout si on veut bien camper.
Les camps accessibles seulement en 4x4 sont aussi plus facilement réservables (Gharagab et Bitterpan)
Le Kalahari tented camp possède pas mal de logements. Il est donc moins rapidement complet.
Les points noirs par difficultés décroissantes : Urikaarus, Grootkolk, Kiekiekrankie.
Mes préférés : Grootkolk, Kiekiekrankie et Kalahari tented camp.
Le plus moche : Nossob puis Twee Rivieren.
Je n'ai pas vu Nossob depuis que des nouveaux logements et un nouveau camping ont été construits. Ça doit être mieux !
Pour le Botswana, il faut s'adresser à un TO botswanais car le système officiel est une horreur.
Les frais seront supérieurs au prix des nuits (frais fixe quelque soit le nombre de nuits et prix de rooiputs et polentswa ridiculement bas) mais d'après Max68, c'est super et je le crois !
Pour les autres parcs, la réservation ne devrait pas poser de problèmes.
Ça me rappelle the Wave et Coyotte Buttes South aux USA!
Ça va mettre un peu de piment dans la préparation...
Merci, je mets les infos de côté pour dans quelques mois.
Jacques
Je t'ai envoyé un très long message, hier soir, mais il s'est égaré dans le désert !
D'accord avec mes camarades, Windhoek n'est pas le meilleur point de départ si tu souhaites rayonner au sud de la Namibie et en Afrique du Sud, sauf à vouloir absolument retourner à Namibrand.
A) Arrivée à Johannesburg et retour du Cap.
B) Arrivée et retour du Cap.
Dans les deux cas, la location sera moins chère, mais aussi l'avion, plus encore dans la solution A.
Dans la solution A, tu as 2 options : prendre un vol vers Upington et louer sur place ou partir de Jnb en voiture. La route est très longue (800 km) et assez monotone, mais en parfait état et tranquille. Nous avons eu des températures négatives en août sur le camping d'Upington.
Ton voyage commencera donc à Augrabies Falls (Gorge Cottage pour 2 seulement sous le belvédère d'Oranjekom est un endroit magnifique). Une night drive pourrait te permettre, non de voir les Big 5 mais des petites bestioles tout aussi intéressantes (genette, chat sauvage, protèle, otocyon, renard du Cap, porc-épic, lièvre sauteur...... nous avons beaucoup aimé). Belle petite rando le long du Gariep appelée Dassie Trail.
Pas d'infos complémentaires pour le KTP. C'est un endroit magique et il n'y a pas que dans les "petits" camps que l'on peut faire de belles rencontres, mais partout. Nous y serons pour une semaine à la fin du mois et il est vrai que les réservations n'ont pas été faciles, même en basse saison.
N'oublie pas de faire les formalités de douane à Twee-Rivieren si tu désires aller en Namibie par Mata-Mata et de contrôler la pression de tes pneus à la station, le sable est parfois très mou et plus encore dans les accès aux petits camps.
La traversée de la frontière dépendra de ton dernier hébergement, soit Mata-Mata puis les C15 et 17 (excellentes) vers Keetmanshoop, soit si tu es vers Nossob ou Twee-Rivieren, vers Bokspits et Rietfontein puis la C16, elle aussi très roulante, mais là, tu loupes Mésosaurus, à moins de remonter la C17 sur 40 ou 50 km.
Aus, Lüderitz et Kolmanskop par une longue route monotone jusqu'à l'approche du Namib. Petit stop pour caresser les chevaux dits sauvages après d'Aus. Bon souvenir de l'Hôtel Krazplatz à Lüderitz, du moins de son restaurant (6 belles langoustes pour 3 et un excellent concert de musique Country).
Fish River Canyon : rive droite ou gauche ? Excellentes routes et pistes pour la gauche, un peu moins bonnes pour la droite, mais sans grand problème en 4x4.
A droite, il n'y a qu'un lodge, magnifiquement situé et à réserver très longtemps à l'avance.
A gauche, plusieurs possibilités, car plus fréquentée, la meilleure étant le camping d'Hobas car tu es dans le parc et tu peux rentrer après le coucher du soleil le premier jour, et aller au bord du canyon le lendemain matin pour voir le soleil se lever. Petite promenade de Main View Point jusqu'au point de départ de la randonnée vers l'amont. Je crois qu'il n'est plus autorisé de descendre au fond du canyon, maintenant. Balade en aval le long du canyon puis dans le désert jusqu'à Aussenkehr sur l'Orange, via Ai-Ais, puis la magnifique D212 qui longe le fleuve vers l'aval.
Au bout de cette piste avant qu'elle ne vire plein nord, il y a le Richtersveld sur la rive opposée. Tu traverses sur le ferry à Sendelingsdrif (fermeture à 16 h 30). Ce parc est une merveille pour les amoureux des plantes rares, des montagnes désertiques et de cette magnifique rivière qu'est l'Orange. Les 2 ou 3 campings qui le bordent sont chouettes (et simples), les plus beaux endroits sont à mon avis Saddle et surtout Kokerboomskloof. Il y a aussi dans la conservancy voisine, éventuellement sur le chemin de la sortie entre Kuboes (petits cottages simples) et Eksteenfontein, un très bel endroit avec un campsite rustique, appelé Tierhoek. J'ai de loin préféré cette route à celle qui rejoint Alexander-Bay. D'Eksteenfontein, tu rejoins la R382 à une trentaine de km de Port-Nolloth, qui mérite le détour pour son côté "hors du temps". Pas mal d'hébergement à Mc Dougall's Bay au bord de l'océan (à quelques km). En 2011, la piste, parallèle au littoral qui rejoint Kleinsee était interdite.
Si tu as traîné un peu en route, tout s'y prête, tu arriveras au Namaqualand pour la floraison (fin août et septembre, en principe, mais il n'y a pas de règle). Si oui, c'est une merveille.
En remontant la R382 vers Steinkopf tu devrais déjà voir des fleurs et surtout dans Animous Pass. Goegab, près de Springbok, est un bel endroit pour la floraison, mais Kamieskroon est le cœur du Namaqualand (hôtel désuet, un peu cher en cette période et rassemblement de tous les amoureux de la flore). Skilpad est sans aucun doute le coin accessible le plus fleuri du parc. Pédroskloof, à l'est de Kamieskroon et en dehors du parc, est un petit coin de paradis noyé dans les fleurs, toute la région alentour est fort jolie.
Plus au sud, Nieuwoudtville est aussi très gâté mais moins sauvage.
Hors saison, ces coins n'ont plus le même charme.
Le Cederberg, plus au sud, est un massif montagneux splendide. Les possibilités de logements sont nombreuses. Sanddrif et Driehoek, ne sont pas les plus douillets mais ils sont situés à proximité des plus belles randonnées (Wolfberg Arh, Maltese Cross, Sneeuberg, Tafelberg etc.) Algeria, plus fréquenté, est pas mal aussi et d'autres. Ne manquer sous aucun prétexte le site de Statsaal au sud de Dwarfsrivier (permis nécessaire, délivré un peu partout mais pas sur place). Ce permis comme celui nécessaire pour certaines randos fonctionne avec la Wildcard (peut-être serait-il intéressant de faire le calcul, car avec Augrabies, le KTP, le Richtersveld et la suite, elle pourrait devenir avantageuse).
Plusieurs possibilités pour rentrer au Cap, mais de loin la plus belle route est celle qui passe à Ceres via Gydo Pass puis Wellington via Michell's Pass et surtout Bain' Kloof Pass.
Du Cap à Hermanus, la route côtière qui démarre vers Strand et conduit à Gordon's Bay, Betty's Bay (colonie de pingouins à Stony Point) et Kleinmond est plus spectaculaire que la N2 vers Botrivier, plus longue aussi.
Bonjour Jacky,
Ce message est une véritable pépite!
Je l’enregistre précieusement pour un prochain projet incluant l’AFS... et j’ai bien noté les recommandations sur les dates!
Je te remercie chaleureusement.
Mais en attendant, j’ai une question précise : comme nous allons passer nous aussi par Lüderitz, as- tu d’autres recommandations? J’ai bien noté le Kratzplatz ! Miam!😊
What else? Pour Kohlmanskopf, il paraît que maintenant on peut acheter les tickets sur place?
Ensuite, nous irons au Canyon. Je confirme pour Fish River Lodge, s’y prendre à l’avance, là aussi il m’a fallu modifier mon projet car je tombais sur une date sans disponibilité. ( 11 mois avant!)😕
Nous y passons 2 nuits car le Lodge organise une descente au fond du Canyon en 4x4. C’etait la seule façon de toucher le fond! Effectivement depuis l’autre côté on ne descend pas tout seuls ( Suite à accidents?) seulement sur des trails avec guide. Nous irons juste pour comparer ( au Canyon Village, qui se remplissait tres vite lui aussi)...😎
Bonne journée et tous mes vœux pour tout plein de messages aussi sympas,
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
n'y a pas que dans les "petits" camps que l'on peut faire de belles rencontres,
Tout à fait exact.
Mais quelle ambiance dans les petits camps .😛
Et quelle vue unique à kieliekrankie !🙂
Ahhhrrr! Ne remue pas le couteau dans la plaie, stp)😕
J’avais sur la liste Kieliekrankie et Urikaruus, mais il n’y avait pas une seule nuit disponible sur 1 mois entier.
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
Le restaurant du Kratzplaz s'appelle "The Barrel".
Nous avions effectué une magnifique balade en voilier le long de la côte du Sperrgebiet jusqu'à la hauteur de Pomona et avions pu observer une colonie d'otaries qui me semblait plus importante que celle de Cape Cross, des dauphins, des ailerons impressionnants et des multitudes d'oiseaux, mais ça, c'était avant !!!! Peut-être est-ce encore d'actualité ?
Attention aux propositions alléchantes de certaines personnes, bien sous toutes apparences : flics ou trafiquants ? Nous avons été sollicité plusieurs fois.
L'avantage de Fish River Lodge est sa situation au-dessus du Canyon et la possibilité de descendre au fond dans un joli secteur mais pas le plus grandiose qui se trouve au pied de Main View Point et en aval jusqu'à ....loin. Je ne pense pas que la piste du FRL aille jusqu'au pied d'Hickers View Point. J'y suis descendu deux fois + une pour la rando. La première fois, nous avions campé sur la plage et je m'étais aventuré en amont avant de remonter : pas l'ombre d'un chemin. Le camping, très sommaire, était à deux pas du vide et quasi désert. Nous n'avons d'ailleurs pas rencontré grand monde dans ce magnifique site chaque fois que nous y sommes allés, surtout entre midi et deux heures, c'est le moment du casse-croûte pour tous les TO.
Si tu fais le détour pour voir l'autre côté, je t'engage donc à aller jusqu'à Main View Point puis de suivre la piste caillouteuse qui longe le bord : quelques belvédères et autant de vues que tu le souhaites en marchant un peu.
A Ai-Ais, les gorges ont perdu de leur superbe mais on peut s'y balader librement aussi bien vers l'amont que l'aval.
Les lodges ne sont pas mal non plus dans Gondwana mais n'ont pas la situation de FRL. J'ai préféré Canyon Mountain Lodge, beaucoup plus calme et simple. On peut dîner à Canyon Lodge (une dizaine de km).
La randonnée de la Fish est un peu dure mais magnifique, elle a sans doute perdu de son charme si, maintenant, on doit marcher en groupe sous la conduite d'un guide, comme tu le dis !
Bonsoir,
Encore un grand merci pour toutes ces précisions, je me fais un fichier bloc notes qui me sera précieux.
C’est pour Octobre... donc j’ai encore le temps de l’enrichir!😏
Bonne soirée,
Chris
"Alors, t'as fait un beau voyage?
Je sais pas, j'ai pas fini de trier mes photos..."
Merci JAcky d’avoir pris le temps de répondre très longuement et précisément !
Je garde précieusement toutes ces informations pour construire notre circuit.
Jacques
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
