Femme seule au Ladakh et Zanskar
by Piat
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je pars trekker au Ladakh et probablement aussi au Zanskar cet été, deux semaines avec mon copain et ensuite seule, et j'aimerais bien avoir des retours d'autres femmes qui y sont allées pour avoir leurs ressentis. Les récents évènements très médiatisés survenus contre les femmes en Inde me font assez peur, et bien que j'imagine que la situation soit un peu différente au Ladakh, j'ai de la peine à rester zen par rapport à tout ça.
Donc j'aurais voulu avoir des infos sur l'habillement adéquat, par exemple est-ce envisageable de mettre un pantalon trois quarts et un t-shirt avec des petites manches, ou est-ce que c'est trop court? Qu'en est-il de la sécurité lors des treks si on campe sans guide, voire même avec guide? Est-ce que c'est sûr de dormir chez des familles qu'on ne connait pas, s'ils nous proposent de dormir chez eux? Et dernièrement, je me demandais comment se passe le trajet entre Leh et Delhi, sachant que je pensais le faire en bus (probablement seule), et qu'il faut apparemment camper au milieu du trajet, et dans/proche d'une ville. Ou alors quelle est la meilleure alternative au bus (sans l'avion car trop cher) ?
Bref, vous l'avez compris, je me fais un peu de souci pour ma sécurité en tant que jeune femme (23 ans), donc toute info ou ressenti sont les bienvenus!
Merci à toutes!
Au Ladakh Zanskar, les femmes ont un rang social eleve, cela n'a rien a voir avec le reste de l'Inde.
Bonjour,
Puisque les femmes ne repondent pas, les hommes s'en melent !
Le Ladakh et l'Inde sont separes par plusieurs chaines de montagnes, et ont des cultures differentes. Il ne faut pas transporter les tragedies indiennes au Ladakh.
Sur les treks, on rencontre les groupes de touristes, ou bien personne sur les parcours engages. La plupart des familles ont amenage une piece pour recevoir les randonneurs, et il n'y a absolument rien a craindre de ce cote la. D'ailleurs, il n'y a presque plus que des femmes, les hommes sont occupes en tant que guides, cuisiniers, caravaniers, pour les treks.
Pour le retour en bus, regardez cette page : http://ladak.free.fr/commun/html/ARLeh.htm
Bonne route.
Le Ladakh et l'Inde sont separes par plusieurs chaines de montagnes, et ont des cultures differentes. Il ne faut pas transporter les tragedies indiennes au Ladakh.
Sur les treks, on rencontre les groupes de touristes, ou bien personne sur les parcours engages. La plupart des familles ont amenage une piece pour recevoir les randonneurs, et il n'y a absolument rien a craindre de ce cote la. D'ailleurs, il n'y a presque plus que des femmes, les hommes sont occupes en tant que guides, cuisiniers, caravaniers, pour les treks.
Pour le retour en bus, regardez cette page : http://ladak.free.fr/commun/html/ARLeh.htm
Bonne route.
djulley Jean Louis,
oui oui une femme va s'en mêler, mais j'ai bossé dur jusqu'à aujourd'hui, et n'ai pas eu le temps d'écrire !
Après plusieurs années passées entre le Ladakh et la Chine, via Thailande Laos je peux confirmer que le Ladakh et le Zanskar sont des pays très agréables pour une femme seule, comme les pays décrits juste avant. Les habitants bouddhistes sont très respectueux des femmes voyageant seules (il y a aussi des musulmans et c'est différent...à Kargil par exemple, un peu dur, comme à Srinagar !)
Le seul souci rencontré l'année dernière a été une attitude désagréable de la part de 3 touristes indiens qui ont décidé de s'installer à ma table en voyant que je buvais une bière... le patron du restaurant a dû intervenir. Comme je l'avais dit dans une autre discussion, il faut faire attention à ne pas entrer dans le petit jeu des marchands de souvenirs cashmiris qui vous disent djulley, en vous faisant croire qu'ils sont ladakhis, volant ainsi les seuls petits jobs des Ladakhis
J'ai campé sans problème à Padum, ainsi que dans la vallée de la nubra, mais il faut faire attention comme partout Moi, je me méfie plus des touristes qui n'ont pas de tente ou de sac de couchage, donc tu demande à des paysans du coin de surveiller tes affaires, ils adorent se sentir indispensables.
oui oui une femme va s'en mêler, mais j'ai bossé dur jusqu'à aujourd'hui, et n'ai pas eu le temps d'écrire !
Après plusieurs années passées entre le Ladakh et la Chine, via Thailande Laos je peux confirmer que le Ladakh et le Zanskar sont des pays très agréables pour une femme seule, comme les pays décrits juste avant. Les habitants bouddhistes sont très respectueux des femmes voyageant seules (il y a aussi des musulmans et c'est différent...à Kargil par exemple, un peu dur, comme à Srinagar !)
Le seul souci rencontré l'année dernière a été une attitude désagréable de la part de 3 touristes indiens qui ont décidé de s'installer à ma table en voyant que je buvais une bière... le patron du restaurant a dû intervenir. Comme je l'avais dit dans une autre discussion, il faut faire attention à ne pas entrer dans le petit jeu des marchands de souvenirs cashmiris qui vous disent djulley, en vous faisant croire qu'ils sont ladakhis, volant ainsi les seuls petits jobs des Ladakhis
J'ai campé sans problème à Padum, ainsi que dans la vallée de la nubra, mais il faut faire attention comme partout Moi, je me méfie plus des touristes qui n'ont pas de tente ou de sac de couchage, donc tu demande à des paysans du coin de surveiller tes affaires, ils adorent se sentir indispensables.
bonjour,
toi qui connait bien le coin: je crois avoir entendu à pls reprises que ce n'est pas trop le cas du côté de srinagar...?je commence mon voyage à amritsar, et j'hésite à rejoindre le cachemire (puis ladakh) ou aller au ladakh via himachal, manali, ... j'ai déjà été deux fois en inde et c'est vrai que la pression (oppression...) des hommes est parfois dure à supporter (surtout sur du long terme); ca ne nous empêche pas d'adorer ce pays!
toi qui connait bien le coin: je crois avoir entendu à pls reprises que ce n'est pas trop le cas du côté de srinagar...?je commence mon voyage à amritsar, et j'hésite à rejoindre le cachemire (puis ladakh) ou aller au ladakh via himachal, manali, ... j'ai déjà été deux fois en inde et c'est vrai que la pression (oppression...) des hommes est parfois dure à supporter (surtout sur du long terme); ca ne nous empêche pas d'adorer ce pays!
Bonjour,
En ce moment, Srinagar est assez agite : manisfestations, couvre-feu. Plusieurs manifestants tues pas les forces paramilitaires. Apres deux ans de calme, les troubles reprennent. En tenue correcte, et a condition de ne pas sortir seules le soir, les femmes ne me semblent pas plus "agacees" qu'ailleurs en Inde. Cet ete, il faut bien viser pour passer entre deux periodes de troubles.
Si vous voulez absolument voir Srinagar, il faut le tenter. Si c'est calme, tout va bien, mais si ca degenere, il faut partir immediatement.
Bonne route.
P.S.: par Manali, la route est relativement bonne.
En ce moment, Srinagar est assez agite : manisfestations, couvre-feu. Plusieurs manifestants tues pas les forces paramilitaires. Apres deux ans de calme, les troubles reprennent. En tenue correcte, et a condition de ne pas sortir seules le soir, les femmes ne me semblent pas plus "agacees" qu'ailleurs en Inde. Cet ete, il faut bien viser pour passer entre deux periodes de troubles.
Si vous voulez absolument voir Srinagar, il faut le tenter. Si c'est calme, tout va bien, mais si ca degenere, il faut partir immediatement.
Bonne route.
P.S.: par Manali, la route est relativement bonne.
Bonjour,
Le plus sur, mais pas le plus rapide, est d'y aller a pied ! Sinon, bus ou taxi collectif de Leh a Kargil, puis le lendemain taxi collectif de Kargil a Padum. A Leh, le bus pour Kargil est sur le polo ground, et pas sur le bus stand, et part a 4h00 du matin. Les taxis collectifs sont sur le bus stand, du cote des minibus et partent vers 6h. A Kargil, les taxis collectifs sont sur le bus stand. A priori, il n'y a plus de bus pour Padum. Dans tous les cas, reserver sur place la veille dans l'apres midi aupres du chauffeur.
Les guides se trouvent aupres des agences, mais il y a peu de chance de se tromper de route sur ce parcours. Une carte peut etre utile pour savoir ou on est, et voir ce qu'il reste a faire.
Au depart de Manali, il faut prendre le bus ou un taxi collectif Manali-Keylong, puis le lendemain un bus Keylong-Darcha ou Keylong-Rarik. Ensuite, c'est un trek avec tente (au debut) jusqu'a Padum, minimum 6 jours.
Bonne route.
Le plus sur, mais pas le plus rapide, est d'y aller a pied ! Sinon, bus ou taxi collectif de Leh a Kargil, puis le lendemain taxi collectif de Kargil a Padum. A Leh, le bus pour Kargil est sur le polo ground, et pas sur le bus stand, et part a 4h00 du matin. Les taxis collectifs sont sur le bus stand, du cote des minibus et partent vers 6h. A Kargil, les taxis collectifs sont sur le bus stand. A priori, il n'y a plus de bus pour Padum. Dans tous les cas, reserver sur place la veille dans l'apres midi aupres du chauffeur.
Les guides se trouvent aupres des agences, mais il y a peu de chance de se tromper de route sur ce parcours. Une carte peut etre utile pour savoir ou on est, et voir ce qu'il reste a faire.
Au depart de Manali, il faut prendre le bus ou un taxi collectif Manali-Keylong, puis le lendemain un bus Keylong-Darcha ou Keylong-Rarik. Ensuite, c'est un trek avec tente (au debut) jusqu'a Padum, minimum 6 jours.
Bonne route.
Merci beaucoup Djulle!
Je pensais en effet y allee a pieds mais je me demandais sil etait plus simple dy alller de Leh ou de Manali!
Je suis seule (et femme) alors je pensais quand meme y aller avec un guide!
Les bus collectifs y a pas besoin de les reserver non? Cest les normaux?
Merci pour tes conseils en tout cas! :)
Louise
Je pensais en effet y allee a pieds mais je me demandais sil etait plus simple dy alller de Leh ou de Manali!
Je suis seule (et femme) alors je pensais quand meme y aller avec un guide!
Les bus collectifs y a pas besoin de les reserver non? Cest les normaux?
Merci pour tes conseils en tout cas! :)
Louise
Bon, pour y aller a pied :
depuis Manali, le plus simple, c'est le taxi collectif sans reservation pour Keylong le matin entre 6h et 7h a cote du bus stand. Puis le lendemain, le bus Keylong-Rarik. La montee du Shingo La des le debut du trek est penible, ensuite, c'est de la descente jusqu'a Padum.
depuis Leh : prendre un bus pour Lamayuru mardi, jeudi ou samedi a 8h sans reservation sur le bus stand de Leh. Cette partie Lamayuru-Padum est plus sportive car on passe un col chaque jour, ou presque.
Dans les deux cas, il faut porter son sac avec tente et duvet, sans nourriture car on en trouve en route.
Avec de la chance, on trouvera un muletier ou un "horseman" qui attend un client et qui mettra le sac sur son animal.
Le guide n'est pas utile pour trouver son chemin, une carte suffit. il peut servir a se rassurer, mais le Ladakh est un pays sur, meme pour des femmes seules. De toutes facons, tu ne seras pas seule aux etapes.
Jean-Louis.
depuis Leh : prendre un bus pour Lamayuru mardi, jeudi ou samedi a 8h sans reservation sur le bus stand de Leh. Cette partie Lamayuru-Padum est plus sportive car on passe un col chaque jour, ou presque.
Dans les deux cas, il faut porter son sac avec tente et duvet, sans nourriture car on en trouve en route.
Avec de la chance, on trouvera un muletier ou un "horseman" qui attend un client et qui mettra le sac sur son animal.
Le guide n'est pas utile pour trouver son chemin, une carte suffit. il peut servir a se rassurer, mais le Ladakh est un pays sur, meme pour des femmes seules. De toutes facons, tu ne seras pas seule aux etapes.
Jean-Louis.
Oui le Lakakh était un pays sûr pour les femmes seules !!!
Je dis bien était, car depuis que les pseudo guides Indiens commencent à entrer en compétition avec les horsmen Tibétains et Ladakhis, je ne conseillerais plus à une femme seule de tenter un trek sans avoir de sérieuses informations.
Je peux citer plusieurs aventures très désagréables lors de mes dernières visites, mais uniquement en MP, car j'en ai marre des remarques faites par les inconditionnels de l'Inde😠
pour aider les gens à vivre, il faut absolument privilégier les emplois des Ladakhis!!! Oui je sais ça a l'air stupide, mais un grand nombre de touristes que j'ai pu voir et qui "font le ladakh " ne font pas la différence entre un Ladakhi, un Tibétain et un cachemiri qui vient profiter de la naïveté des habitants de ce coin de pays !!!
Et n'oublions pas de répéter encore et encore que l'altitude n'est pas à oublier, même si l'on se croit invulnérable, jeune, fun et tout et tout, iriez vous vous balader au sommet de Mont Blanc sans avoir jamais fait une balade de quelques heures dans vos belles chaussures toutes neuves ?
Loin de moi l'idée de jouer les rabat-joie, mais il faut juste se dire que ce pays de rêve doit s'apprivoiser ...
Djulley, merci d'aider les Ladakhis à continuer à vivre dans leur pays, et fais-leur un peu de publicité
Je dis bien était, car depuis que les pseudo guides Indiens commencent à entrer en compétition avec les horsmen Tibétains et Ladakhis, je ne conseillerais plus à une femme seule de tenter un trek sans avoir de sérieuses informations.
Je peux citer plusieurs aventures très désagréables lors de mes dernières visites, mais uniquement en MP, car j'en ai marre des remarques faites par les inconditionnels de l'Inde😠
pour aider les gens à vivre, il faut absolument privilégier les emplois des Ladakhis!!! Oui je sais ça a l'air stupide, mais un grand nombre de touristes que j'ai pu voir et qui "font le ladakh " ne font pas la différence entre un Ladakhi, un Tibétain et un cachemiri qui vient profiter de la naïveté des habitants de ce coin de pays !!!
Et n'oublions pas de répéter encore et encore que l'altitude n'est pas à oublier, même si l'on se croit invulnérable, jeune, fun et tout et tout, iriez vous vous balader au sommet de Mont Blanc sans avoir jamais fait une balade de quelques heures dans vos belles chaussures toutes neuves ?
Loin de moi l'idée de jouer les rabat-joie, mais il faut juste se dire que ce pays de rêve doit s'apprivoiser ...
Djulley, merci d'aider les Ladakhis à continuer à vivre dans leur pays, et fais-leur un peu de publicité
Au Ladakh, je reste le moins longtemps possible à Leh, et je n'ai pas eu l'occasion de répondre à temps.
J'espère que tu as fait le bon choix - d'ailleurs, tu ne pouvais pas te tromper car les deux étaient bons ! 🙂 !
Juley.
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my friend, with whom I traveled to Iran, Myanmar, and India, really wanted to take a one-month trip to Armenia and Georgia. So we booked our flights (June 21 to July 19), but disaster struck—she can’t travel anymore due to serious family reasons.
Now I’m heading off on this adventure alone. It’s not that I’ve never traveled solo before—I spent three months exploring Southeast Asia by myself last year—but I still have a few questions, and I’d really appreciate your input.
* I don’t think traveling alone in these countries is very risky—what do you think? * Maybe I could hire a driver? What would that cost, since some places seem tricky to reach by public transport. Do you have any driver recommendations? * I don’t want to rent a car—the driving seems too unpredictable, especially in Georgia. * I’d love to do some nice hikes—are there any guides available?
Here’s my rough itinerary: YEREVAN and surroundings YEGHEGNADZOR for Noravank GORIS and TATEV LAKE SEVAN DILIJAN HAGHPAT TBILISI and surroundings The CAUCASUS toward Mestia UPLISTSIKHE VARDZIA Return to Yerevan for my flight
Thanks to anyone who can share their experiences or answer my questions!
Now I’m heading off on this adventure alone. It’s not that I’ve never traveled solo before—I spent three months exploring Southeast Asia by myself last year—but I still have a few questions, and I’d really appreciate your input.
* I don’t think traveling alone in these countries is very risky—what do you think? * Maybe I could hire a driver? What would that cost, since some places seem tricky to reach by public transport. Do you have any driver recommendations? * I don’t want to rent a car—the driving seems too unpredictable, especially in Georgia. * I’d love to do some nice hikes—are there any guides available?
Here’s my rough itinerary: YEREVAN and surroundings YEGHEGNADZOR for Noravank GORIS and TATEV LAKE SEVAN DILIJAN HAGHPAT TBILISI and surroundings The CAUCASUS toward Mestia UPLISTSIKHE VARDZIA Return to Yerevan for my flight
Thanks to anyone who can share their experiences or answer my questions!
Hi,
Can you share some info about Mauritius, since I’m traveling alone and would like a local contact there?
Thanks.
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share a few tips that really helped me better prepare my carry-on luggage. After a few trips (and some mistakes too!), I’ve finally found a way to organize myself that makes life a lot easier. Maybe this can help other travelers here.
1. Choose a practical and sturdy bag
A good bag is the foundation. I’ve noticed that a model with a solid structure, sturdy wheels, and a well-thought-out interior really changes the experience. Hard-shell suitcases hold up better, especially when you’re hopping between flights. Personally, I use a Lambert suitcase because the interior is super well-divided, but the important thing is to find a model that works for you.
2. Rolling your clothes really works
It’s simple, but it saves so much space. Plus, it wrinkles less. I do this now for almost everything, especially lightweight clothes.
3. Keep everything in a small kit
100 ml liquids, toothbrush, cream, mini first-aid kit… Having all of that in one clear toiletry bag makes going through security much easier. It saves you from having to take everything out and put it back in a rush.
4. A pouch for essentials
Passport, headphones, charger, phone… I keep all of that in the same pouch. It saves so much stress when you need to find something quickly, especially on the plane.
5. Traveling lighter makes all the difference
Since I started choosing versatile clothes that mix and match well, I travel with a lot less. Less weight, fewer decisions to make, fewer things to lug around. It honestly makes traveling so much more enjoyable.
From the conversations I’ve had with other travelers (and several customers too), I’ve realized you can really simplify your trip just by organizing a little better and choosing good accessories.
If you have other tips or methods that work for you, I’d love to read them. We always learn from others on this forum.
Looking forward to exchanging with you all!
Hi,
Has anyone recently taken the boat to Casamance from Dakar and could share their experience?
From France, is it possible to book online, or do you need to go through an agency? How far in advance?
Boarding/disembarking: how does it work? Do we have to check in our luggage and then pick it up on arrival?
What’s the vibe like on the boat in the seating area?
Has anyone ever stopped over in Carabane? Accommodation options there?
Thanks so much if you have any recent info!
Exploring India by road is all about having a good driver. I highly recommend the one I’ve traveled with for 5 "safe" trips—Rajasthan 3 times over 16 years, Gujarat, Himachal Pradesh, and Punjab. He’s been driving tourists for 25 years now and is more than just a driver. He knows how to talk about his country, the cities you visit, and suggests alternative routes.
He’s well-connected with real local guides who don’t just ramble (as he puts it himself) or drag you into shops claiming to be run by their "so-called family." Depending on your preferences, he can suggest well-tested itineraries and recommend typical hotels like Havelis.
For dining, he oversees meal prep based on your spice-level preferences. He’s Sikh and deeply respectful of his passengers.
He speaks English better than French, but one of his daughters is studying French at university.
DM me if you’d like his contact details.
Happy travels!
He’s well-connected with real local guides who don’t just ramble (as he puts it himself) or drag you into shops claiming to be run by their "so-called family." Depending on your preferences, he can suggest well-tested itineraries and recommend typical hotels like Havelis.
For dining, he oversees meal prep based on your spice-level preferences. He’s Sikh and deeply respectful of his passengers.
He speaks English better than French, but one of his daughters is studying French at university.
DM me if you’d like his contact details.
Happy travels!
Hi,
We’d like to spend about twenty days in Albania next July. We’re two women traveling together and we’re thinking of renting a small car. Does that sound reasonable, or should we avoid it?
Thanks for your advice.
Hi there,
I’m spending a week in Morocco (Rabat - Meknes - Fes).
I’ll be traveling solo—is it safe for a woman over 60?
For transportation, I’m planning to take the train. I was thinking of buying my ticket last minute, but it’s around the end-of-year period…?
I’ll be in Meknes on December 31st—any suggestions on how they celebrate New Year’s Eve there?
Is anyone visiting these destinations? Maybe we could meet up…?
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
After hearing so much about Djerba, especially the GO clubs, is it risky for a young, pretty newly-retired woman to visit the island alone?
Thanks in advance.
Hi,
Does anyone know how late the buses run from Cusco Airport to the city center? I land at 9:30 PM, plus time to clear customs, pick up my luggage, and exchange some money—figure an extra 30 to 45 minutes. Though, come to think of it, I still have 5 sols from last time—maybe that’ll be enough for the bus?
Thanks.
Brigitte
Planned arrival on Sunday evening, November 16, 2025, in San José. Staying 3 nights, then taking a bus to Tortuguero for 2 nights. Looking for a shared shuttle to La Fortuna for 2 nights, then a van-boat-van combo to Santa Elena for 2 or 3 nights. Heading to Quepos for 4 nights for day trips using local buses—Jaco, San Antonio, Uvita. After that, a full-day bus ride to Cahuita. I’m booking hotels as I go, which gives me the flexibility to stay longer in places I like. I’m looking for accommodations in city centers near restaurants and not too far from the bus station. Budget: 50 € for a room with a private bathroom (if you’ve got any great tips!). For my finale, I’ll cross the land border to Panama City for 4 days. Thanks for your suggestions! 😉
As I mentioned before, I’m heading to Istanbul next summer, and I’ve heard there have been quite a few attacks by Kurds in Turkey recently, which is making me hesitate about my trip.
What do you all think? :( I’m wondering if it’s really a good idea to go...
What do you all think? :( I’m wondering if it’s really a good idea to go...
Hi everyone,
I’m 66 and just discovered solo travel in Uzbekistan—I loved it! So I’ve decided to explore Africa, starting with Senegal. I’m just beginning my research, but if anyone can give me advice on which month to go, what to see, and whether this destination is safe—or maybe suggest another African country—I’d really appreciate your tips!
Hi there!
We’re leaving in early November for a month.
Here’s our itinerary:
Arrival in Takhmau, then heading to:
Kampong Cham
Kratie – 2 days
Mondolkiri – 3 days
Ratanakiri – 3 days
Stung Treng – 1 day
Siem Reap – 4 days
Battambang – 1 day
Kampong Chhnang – 3 days
Kampot – 2 days
Islands (WE’RE HESITATING WHICH ONE?) – 4 DAYS
Phnom Penh – 2 days
That’s it! 😊
We’re backpacking… and we love spots that aren’t too touristy. If you’ve got any tips, we’re all ears!
Thanks