Flores or Sulawesi? Can't decide!
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
IO
Hi everyone, First post in years on the forum—I’m so happy it’s back up and running!

I’ve been wrestling with this question for weeks now: Flores or Sulawesi?

I’m leaving in July for 24 days, followed by 2 weeks around Makassar/Wakatobi for work. For the first part, I’m traveling with my family (my partner + 3 kids aged 6 to 14).

I’ve had a long-time dream of Komodo, but I’m worried it’s become super touristy... though the crossing to Maumere still sounds amazing. I’m also not thrilled about all the internal flights.

On the other hand, since I’ll be in Sulawesi anyway, I’m thinking a crossing from Gorontalo to Luwuk via the Togians (maybe even a few days in Banggai) + a detour to Toraja (which I visited 10 years ago) could be an incredible trip too.

For my family, this is their first trip to Indonesia, so I’d love it to feel *mythic* ;).

Any advice is welcome—I’m really struggling to decide! I know it’s a choice between two great options...

Thanks!
devis
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

the crossing to Maumere really fires my imagination. I’m not too keen on all the internal flights, though…

On the other hand, since I’m going to Sulawesi anyway

Yeah, you’ll need to plan some flights for the Flores trip… Plus the Labuan Bajo or Kupang–Bali and Bali–Makassar flights. Or an option to skip the Bali layover: Maumere–L.Bajo flight (3×/week) + ferry L.Bajo–Sape (Sumbawa, about 8-hour crossing), shared transport Sape–Bima (under 2 hrs), then direct Wings Air Bima–Makassar flight 3×/week (currently 122 € per person for July).

In your case, I wouldn’t bother going to Flores—just do Sulawesi from Gorontalo to Makassar in 24 days and call it a day…
IO Ionein Regular ·
Thanks! For now, I only have the flights to Bali booked, so everything’s still open :).

I’m wondering if Labuan Bajo is still nice or if it’s become a tourist factory? I think the rest of the trip would work well, but I’m a little worried—I read somewhere that after COVID, LB was pretty much rebuilt with mass tourism in mind...
devis
FA Facoalfr Veteran ·
Hello, My experience dates back to 2011, with my three teens aged 15, 14, and 12. We took a flight from Bali to Maumere. From there, we climbed Mount Egon. Then, with the Kilian family, we made our way back at a leisurely pace, passing through Wae Rebo, Riung, and the spiderweb-shaped rice terraces (I’m recalling from memory). My teens and I absolutely loved it—it was very local, and there were few tourists. We returned from Labuan Bajo, Flores, to Labuan Bajo, Lombok, via a local "cruise," passing by Komodo and along the coast of Sumbawa: very basic and with a very rough patch. In short, a great memory, but it’s been a while.

We also visited Sulawesi in 2013. I had chosen the Mamasa Valley, Rantepao, Tentena, the Bada Valley, and we finished with Bira and Selayar Island. We enjoyed that too.

Happy trip planning! I’m available for more info
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Good evening,

à Labuan Bajo Lombok

More like Labuhan Lombok, I think—this one doesn’t have a "Bajo."
BA Babouandco ·
Hi there,

I’m wondering if Labuan Bajo is still nice or if it’s become a tourist factory? I think the rest of Flores is great, but I’m a bit worried—I read somewhere that after COVID, LB was pretty much rebuilt with mass tourism in mind...

True, LB isn’t (or maybe isn’t anymore?) a cute, authentic fishing port. The bay is gorgeous, but the town itself is a tourist factory, overrun by Chinese, Australian, and American visitors who only come to Flores for the Komodo cruise. It’s nothing like the rest of the island, which is much quieter and wilder, with fewer tourists—mostly French, actually. Two totally different worlds.

I was there in summer 2025.
Babou
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Good evening, "I’ve had a bit of a dream about Komodo for a long time, but I’m afraid it’s become very touristy..." Some time ago, Komodo was on my itinerary, but at the last minute, we changed plans and set off by boat for Rinca Island and its dragons. We were alone—sailing toward Komodo with a night on deck (the cabin offered seemed dirty and smelled of fuel). We were surrounded by boats fishing with string lights, and in the morning, near the shores, trees black with giant bats. Then Komodo, livelier, before heading back. A great memory—the night went smoothly, and the meals on board were decent. For Sulawesi with kids, in my opinion, it’d be ideal. Even the Gorontalo region is worth visiting. The Togian Islands are enchanting, some islands are barely visited, and of course, the unreal customs of the Toraja people. An experience in the north: https://tumbak-island-cottages.jimdofree.com/ a few days of "Robinson Crusoe" vibes, but mostly snorkeling everywhere—thousands of fish right under the 3 bungalows, plus excursions with the super passionate owner, meals brought by his father-in-law in his canoe, etc. We stayed 4 days/3 nights (including 2 alone). Have a great trip! Eric
HENON Eric
IO Ionein Regular ·
Hi everyone, a little follow-up! Thanks for your advice—it really made me think. It’s given me the urge to go to Sulawesi, and I’ve put together this itinerary.

Day 1: Arrival in Bali in the late afternoon Day 2: Bali Day 3: Bali Day 4: Flight to Gorontalo Day 5: Gorontalo Day 6: Gorontalo, evening ferry Days 7–11: Togian Day 12: Travel to Ampana and Luwuk Days 13–18: Banggai Day 19: Flight to Makassar Day 20: Visit Makassar, bus to Toraja Days 21–23: Visit Toraja Day 24: Toraja + return bus ride Day 25: Makassar, then evening flight back to Europe.

I’m still not 100% sure about spending 2 days in Bali—I’m not really into big crowds, but I’m not sure if there’s enough to do in Gorontalo to stay for two and a half days. Also, I’m not sure how to plan for Bali since it’ll be high season... any tips?
devis
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Good evening,

Day 2: Bali Day 3: Bali

Either it's too long or too short. In your case, I’d keep a full day at most—just enough to recover from the international flight—but not two.

Bali Day 4: Flight to Gorontalo

Where are you finding a direct flight like that? Which airline?

Banggai Day 19: Flight to Makassar,

Claiming you can do the Banggai-Makassar route in the same day (6-hour ferry with unreliable schedules + a flight whose last departure is at 3:05 PM) seems overly ambitious.

Also in Bali, I’m not sure how to plan since it’ll be peak season... any advice?

With only two days, the only reasonable option is a rushed, overpriced tour through an agency—nothing else is realistically doable. Pick a hotel near the airport and don’t stray too far.

PS

in Sulawesi

Do you say "in Bali," "in Flores," "in Java," "in Sumatra"?
FA Facoalfr Veteran ·
Hi there, I’d like to suggest an alternative to Bali: fly to KL, then with AirAsia you’ve got loads of options to reach other parts of Indonesia. For getting around within Indonesia, download TRAVELOKA. Personally, I spend the first night and the last night at Kuala Lumpur Airport, sometimes even 2 or 3 days in KL itself. Have a great trip!
IO Ionein Regular ·
Haha, thanks! Yeah, it must be Swiss to say "au" Sulawesi, but we don’t say that for the others…

- I saw a Bali-Gorontalo flight, but with a layover in Makassar, indeed. Otherwise, there’s a direct flight to Manado, but it takes too long… I think it also makes a secret layover in Makassar. - No worries about Banggai—I was planning to return by ferry to Luwuk on the last day and just take the flight. We’ll check out a waterfall or two while we wait :) - For Bali, I’m almost tempted to move on and spend 3 days in Gorontalo. I just have a small concern that it might be too rough for the kids.

Thanks for the feedback—I’m finally starting to see the itinerary take shape!
devis
IO Ionein Regular ·
That’s a great idea, but I already have the tickets for Bali (I was originally trying to keep Flores as an option).

Next time, for sure!
devis
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Will you be returning via Bali too?
IO Ionein Regular ·
For the family, yes, but not for me. I’m staying longer for work and I’m returning via Jakarta.
devis
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I think you should consider the same route but in reverse: flight Bali-Luwuk via Makassar, Banggai, Luwuk-Togian, Togian-Gorontalo, flight Gorontalo-Makassar, round-trip Makassar-Toraja region, then flight Makassar-Bali. That way, the layover in Makassar for Bali-Luwuk would be much shorter than for Bali-Gorontalo (1h50 vs. 4h15). If needed, the layover in Makassar is also shorter for Gorontalo-Bali than the other way around (2h35 vs. 4h15).
IO Ionein Regular ·
I’ll check if this works for boats to Gorontalo—thanks, that’s a great tip! Any advice for the Togian Islands? There are so many islands and options... I’m looking for accommodations that are more like quiet beach huts with opportunities for snorkeling trips and diving, but I’m really not into resorts or luxury.
devis
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Any tips for the Togian Islands? There are so many islands and options... I’m looking for accommodations like quiet beach huts with snorkeling and diving trips available, but I’m really not into resorts or luxury.

No, for the "on-the-ground experience" part, you’ll have to rely on others’ replies, sorry.
NI Nimou74 Veteran ·
I’ll check if the boat situation works out for Gorontalo... thanks, that’s a great tip! Any advice for the Togian Islands? There are so many islands and options... I’m looking for accommodations that are more like quiet beach huts with snorkeling and diving trips available, but I’m really not into resorts or luxury.

A few years ago—if I remember correctly, during the summer of 2011—we stayed at "Kadidiri Paradise" on a full-board basis. At the time, it was the most "luxurious" accommodation. (Everything’s relative ;)) I’ve seen that newer places have been built since then. Kadidiri is listed on Booking. It’s in a great location, and they organize daily excursions.
EI Eiger Veteran ·
Do you have any tips for the Togian Islands? There are so many islands and options... I’m looking for accommodations that are more like quiet beach huts with snorkeling and diving opportunities, but I’m really not into resorts or luxury.

Perfect, because the Togian Islands are pretty much all about "quiet beach huts." 🙂

There’s a lot to choose from, here are a few tips:

- On Melenge Island, there are several homestays with lovely bungalows, each in its own stunning 100-meter cove:

Sandy Bay and its 8 bungalows in a cove with amazing snorkeling right from the beach. Sera Beach and its gorgeous sandy beach (though the snorkeling isn’t as good and isn’t right from the beach). Around a dozen bungalows. Malenge Indah with just a few bungalows.

- Further north on Malenge (toward the Bajau village), there are also a few groups of bungalows, but I don’t know them—I’ve just seen them from the boat on beautiful beaches.

- We really liked Bolilanga, a tiny island (300 meters long) facing Katupat Island. Around a dozen bungalows, nice snorkeling, and close to several dive spots.

- Across from the village of Katupat, Fadhila Cottages is good, but it sometimes gets all the village trash depending on the current...

Further south, there are well-known homestays near Bomba, but I haven’t stopped there.
Photos commentées voyages et montagne : http://christian.aude.free.fr

Carnets de voyages en images : Bornéo 2025 (Brunei et Malaisie), Sumba 2024, Papouasie 2022, Vietnam 2019, Moluques 2018, Sulawesi 2016, Philippines 1984 (eh oui ! ) .
IO Ionein Regular ·
Thanks! I’ll check all that out—it’s true that Sera Beach sounds amazing! I’ll ask about Sandy Beach to see if it’s still open; I can’t find anything more recent than 2017. Otherwise, Lestari is also near the baju village
devis

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