Nous partons mon mari et moi pour un périple de 25 jours entre la Namibie et le Botswana du 24/12/16 au 17/1/17. Les guides sont rares, succints et à la lecture des différents posts, on voudrait aller partout !!!! en bref, un vrai casse-tête !
Ainsi, je me permet de porter à votre expertise l'itinéraire que nous souhaiterions à peu près suivre, sachant que nous n'avons rien réservé:
Nous louerons un 4X4 full équipé camping et pour minimiser le budget , nous dormirons uniquement dans des campsites.
Le trajet Maun/Windhoek est plus motivé par une économie du coût généré par un Drop-off qu'un réel intérêt pour cette portion de route (c'est pourquoi le trajet se fait sur une seule et unique journée à 2 conducteurs pour qui cela ne dérange pas de rouler)
Nous souhaitons absolument voir Sesriem et plus généralement le désert de Namib, un village Himba, Etosha, les chutes Victoria, Chobe et l'Okavango.
Les trajets entre ces différents sites peuvent donc être modifiés et ont été arrêté selon les intérêts manifestés par chacun sur le forum (n'étant pas des experts de la géographie Namibienne, il nous est difficile d'anticiper ce qui parait avoir le plus d'attrait). Ainsi, je ne sais pas si le tronçon
est réellement un bon choix (si on ne passe pas trop vite? peut être vaut-il mieux rouler une bonne journée pour se poser deux nuits au même endroit et visiter correctement les alentours?)
De même que je ne sais pas si 3 nuits à Opuwo sont réellement pertinentes, s'il ne vaut pas mieux faire des mini étapes entre différents villages rapprochés ?
On passe très vite sur la bande de Caprivi du fait que nous y allons "à la saison des pluies" et ne souhaitons pas prendre le risque que les pistes soient impraticables pour 2 débutants 4X4 que nous sommes (même s'il est prévu de faire un stage avant de partir pour minimiser les risques)
On prévoit quand même une nuit aux alentours de Shakawe, au cas où !
J'ai tronçonné le trajet Kasane / Moremi, en 2 jours. Les 2 nuits peuvent se faire à Savati ou un peu avant et un peu après.
Au regard des posts, la piste semble compliquée et on n'arrive pas à savoir s'il vaut mieux la faire en 1 fois ou en 2.
Voilà ! 😇 - que pensez vous de cet itinéraire ? vous parait-il réalisable ?
Merci d'avance pour vos conseils et suggestions.
Nous ne sommes jamais partis à ces dates, alors nous ne connaissons pas l'état des routes, mais vous pouvez aller voir nos carnets de voyage pour vous donner une idée des trajets.
C'est un trajet intense en temps de conduite automobile mais pourquoi pas si ca vous va.
Dans vos calculs de trajets , prenez en compte que sur les routes en gravel, on roule à maximum 80km/h (le loueur équipe la voiture d'un tracker gps) ce qui conduit à des moyennes de 70km/h .
Les accidents sont frequents par perte de contrôle de la voiture sur le gravel, on l'a vu de nos yeux sur la route qui monte à Palwag : un gros 4x4 a freiné en haut d'une cote trop brusquement , il s'est retrouvé sur le toit.
On a toujours intérêt même si ca rallonge pas mal de prendre les routes goudronnées , il y en a peu mais elles sont en excellent état en Namibie.
D'Estosha à Kasane , on est sur du goudron tout le long ( petit detour au sud au depart d'Etosha) , ca facilite beaucoup la conduite meme si il faut etre attentif aux gens et animaux presents quelquefois au bord des routes.
Par contre de Kasane à Maun , ca me semble tres compliqué , une piste , certainement tres sympa mais , perso, je m'y risquerais pas en saison des pluies, je ne suis pas assez compétent. ou alors à 2 véhicules .
On a été plus attirés par les deserts namibiens coté de Sesriem et Naukluft, moins coté Brandberg mais il fait chaud , tres chaud probablement en Janvier
3 jours à Etsoha, 3 à Chobe , c'est bien vu , on s’ennuie pas dans ces parcs 😉
24/12 : Arrivée Windhoek
25/12 : Windhoek --> Sesriem, nuit Sesriem
26/12 : Visites , nuit Sesriem
27/12 : Départ Sesriem --> Swakopmund, nuit Swakopmund
28/12 : Visites, nuit Swakopmund
29/12 : Swakopmung --> Brandberg, nuit Brandberg
30/12 : Brandberg --> Grootberg , nuit Grootberg TU VAS PAYER CHER LA VUE POUR NE PAS PROFITER DES ACTIVITES DU LODGE. LE CAMPING DU GROOTBERG = HOADA EST TRES LOIN DU LODGE CA RAJOUTE DE LA ROUTE POUR LA ROUTE DU LENDEMAIN. DE PLUS CA REDUIT LE DAMARALAND A ....RIEN
31/12 : Grootberg --> Opuwo, nuit Opuwo CA FAIT UNE BELLE TROTTE
1/1 : Visite chutes Epupa Falls, nuit Opuwo
2/1 : Visite village Himba, nuit Opuwo
3/1 : Opuwo --> Etosha, nuit Etosha LA AUSSI CA FAIT BEAUCOUP. SURTOUT AVEC LES RISQUES DE PLUIE FAIBLES MAIS POSSIBLES
4/1 : Etosha, nuit Etosha
5/1 : Etosha, nuit Etosha
6/1 : Etosha --> Shakawe, nuit Shakawe ????? QUEL INTERET D ALLER LA ?? DORS PLUTOT EN NAMIBIE MAHANGO TU FERAS AUSSI DU BOAT CRUISE MOINS DE ROUTE PLUS ABORDABLE ETLA RESERVE DE MAHANGO VAUT LE DETOUT+R
7/1 : Boat cruise, nuit Shakawe
8/1 : Shakawe --> Kasane, nuit Kasane ET BIEN !! CA C EST DU PARCOURS. LA BANDE DE CAPRIVI POUR VOUS CE SERA DU BITUME DOMMAGE
9/1 : Visites Chutes Victoria, nuit Kasane
10/1 : Boat cruise Chobe, nuit Kasane
11/1 : Kasane --> savuti, nuit Savuti
12/1 : Visites ou continuité du périple, Nuit Savuti
13/1 : Savuti --> Moremi, Nuit Moremi
14/1 : Visites, Nuit Moremi
15 /1 : Moremi --> Maun, Nuit Maun
16/1 : Maun --> Windhoek, nuit Windhoek
17/1 : Retour en France
est réellement un bon choix (si on ne passe pas trop vite? PAS BON DU TOUT VOUS PASSEZ TROP VITE peut être vaut-il mieux rouler une bonne journée pour se poser deux nuits au même endroit et visiter correctement les alentours?)OUI
De même que je ne sais pas si 3 nuits à Opuwo sont réellement pertinentes, NON 2 SUFFISENT s'il ne vaut pas mieux faire des mini étapes entre différents villages rapprochés ?
On passe très vite sur la bande de Caprivi du fait que nous y allons "à la saison des pluies" et ne souhaitons pas prendre le risque que les pistes soient impraticables pour 2 débutants 4X4 ?????? VOUS RIGOLEZ LA ? LA BANDE DE CAPRIVI QUE VOUS ALLEZ FAIRE C EST DU BITUME. EN REVANCHE DE KASANE 0 MOREMI C EST DU SABLE BEAUCOUP ET SI VOUS N ETES PAS EXPERIMENTES AVEC LA PLUIE CA VA ETRE TRES DUR.
Girardinpho, j'ai consulté tes carnets de voyage et un grand merci car je me suis permise de m'en inspirer pour remodeler mon itinéraire 😇
LouisonBillo, je te pique également quelques suggestions et du coup, j'ai remanié la partie du trajet allant de Swakopmund à Etosha en rajoutant des destinations mais en faisant l'impasse sur Epuwo
L'envie d'aller à Epuwo était surtout motivée par la rencontre avec la population Himba. Au final, il semblerait que nous pourrons en rencontrer pendant notre parcours. Si la possibilité de "communiquer" s'offre au détour d'un chemin alors tant mieux - laissons nous surprendre par les rencontres que peuvent offrir un tel périple !
Par contre, je ne vous cache pas que vos mises en garde , Kafouniet et toi, concernant les pistes entre Kasane et Moremi m'ont donné envie de pleurer et me laisse complètement paumée
D'après ce que j'ai compris, il n'y a pas 36 solutions pour joindre les 2 villes: ou une piste pas forcément praticable - ou la route goudronnée qui passe par Nata. Sauf que la route goudronnée me branche pas du tout même si je vous rejoins sur le fait qu'en étant en saison des pluies, ça risque d'être très chaud de prendre la piste. Et la piste avait l'air bien sympathique ! .....
Du coup je ne sais plus quoi faire ! et pourtant il va bien falloir faire qq chose !
Savez vous s'il n'existerai pas une 3ème solution (😇) qui permettrait de faire le chemin entre les 2 sans pour autant prendre la piste compliquée ou la route goudronnée et en permettant de rester au coeur du parc ?
Ou alors si cette 3ème solution n'existe pas, est ce qu'il y aurait des endroits stratégiques d'étape par la route goudronnée pour visiter le parc et ne pas perdre le bénéfice du "non choix" de la piste ?
Autre petite question: pour réserver ses campsites au Botswana, il faut obligatoirement passer par un TO? car les campsites ne semblent pas avoir de site internet permettant la réservation et j'ai bien peur qu'en se pointant en direct, la fleur au fusil, on se fasse refouler ....
C'est jouable mais c'est une grosse journée de route. Tu pourrais envisager faire ce trajet en 2 jours avec une étape du côté de Rundu. Il y a des lodges et campings sympas "les pieds dans l'eau".
5/1 : Boat cruise, nuit Mahango
Le parc de Mahango est petit est peu se visiter en 1/2 journée. Où veux-tu faire une croisière ? Pour voir les Popa Falls ? (bof, je privilégierais plutôt une croisière sur la Chobe à Kasane que tu as prévu le 8/1).
Pour le boat cruise, tu peux contacter Chobe Charlin charter. Charles est vraiment super.
Les croisières commencent à 15h.
Kongola / Kasane c'est environ 3h de route, et tu rajoutes 1h pour le passage des frontières.
Je ferais 3 nuits à Kasane avec :
Mudumu / Kasane avec self-drive dans le parc
Journée à Kasane : matin self-drive / après-midi croisière,
Journée à Victoria Falls.
L'idéal est en effet de faire Kasane / Savuti, puis Savuti / Dijara campsite (par ex.) puis 2 nuits dans Moremi (Xakanaka ou Third Bridge ou South Gate).
Je ne suis pas certaine que cela soit irréalisable. Un stage 4x4 avant le départ vous apportera de la confiance
L'autre solution :
Kasane / Nata ou Gweta
Gweta / Kumaga (Makgadikgadi parc)
Kumaga / Maun / Moremi (South gate)
Moremi
16/1 : Maun --> Windhoek, nuit Windhoek
C'est une très très grosse journée de route. Il faut faire le trajet en 2 étape avec arrêt à Ghanzi par exemple. Ou alors laisser la voiture à Maun et prendre l'avion de retour depuis Maun. Je ne sais pas avec quel compagnie tu vas voyager, mais c'est une solution à étudier.
Bon, je crois que là je t'ai plus de jours que tu n'as sur place 😊
- une nuit à Walvis Bay + 1 nuit Swakopmund est peut être redondant ?
Je comprend l'intérêt pour l'architecture coloniale de Swakopmund mais n'est ce pas perdre un nuit pour rien ? et du coup récupérer une nuit supplémentaire pour le trajet Maun/Windhoeck ?
- ou alors, nous arrivons le 24/12 en après midi sur Windoeck. Le temps de récupérer le 4X4, je ne suis pas sure que nous aurons le temps de faire les courses. Idem pour le 25/12 (QUID des magasins fermés le jour de Noel 🤪 ). Du coup, autant peut être profiter de ces journées "fériées", pour faire le trajet direct pour Maun et faire les courses directement là bas. On sera surement dans un tel état d'excitation que la route ne se verra même pas 😇 et du coup, on fait le trajet à l'envers ce qui permet de passer les derniers jours au calme pour se reposer avant de rentrer (?)
On s'est renseigné sur le drop off Windhoeck/Maun: il est assez cher ce qui justifie la fatigue d'une journée de route...
Concernant les vols AF-Namibie ou AF-Botswana ou même AF-Vic Falls, on est un peu coincé: on arrive à JBG le 24 à 11H et le seul vol qu'on peut attraper pour ne pas perdre le bénéficie du 24 et ne pas perdre une journée supplémentaire est le vol JBG-Windhoek via South Africa Airlines
En dépit des conditions météo, on s'entête et on va tenter le passage par Savuti.... Je vais prendre contact avec African coeur safaris pour réserver les hébergements. On va faire un stage 4X4 pour s'aguerrir mais je serai plus tranquille d'avoir un contact sur place au cas où !
- une nuit à Walvis Bay + 1 nuit Swakopmund est peut être redondant ?
Si tu veux faire les activités à Walvis Bay (sortie bateau, sandwich Harbour) il faut rester 2 jours sur Swakop ou WB. Sinon, 1 seule nuit est suffisante, soit à WB soit à Swakop.
Et, en effet, le nuit gagnée je la placerais en fin de circuit pour couper le trajet Maun / Windhoek, avec un arrêt à Ghanzi au Thakadu Bush Camp par exemple.
ou alors, nous arrivons le 24/12 en après midi sur Windoeck. Le temps de récupérer le 4X4, je ne suis pas sure que nous aurons le temps de faire les courses. Idem pour le 25/12 (QUID des magasins fermés le jour de Noel 🤪).
Les 25 et 26 décembre sont des jours fériés en Namibie (Noël et Boxing day). C'est la même chose au Botswana. Donc, pour les courses il faudra les faire le 24, mais cela va dépendre de votre heure d'arrivée à Windhoek. De mémoire, en été austral, l'arrivée est plutôt vers 16h30/17h. Du temps de récupérer la voiture, je crains que ce ne soit trop juste.
Je ne sais pas où tu vas passer la nuit à Windhoek, mais peut-être pourras-tu t'arranger avec l'établissement pour qu'ils te fassent quelques courses en amont. Sinon, je sais que certains loueurs proposent des "starter kit" pour la camping. Ton TO pourra te conseiller.
Je te conseille Londiningi Guesthouse pour la première nuit. Et je pense qu'Alex ou Nathalie pourront t'aider pour les courses.
Concernant les vols AF-Namibie ou AF-Botswana ou même AF-Vic Falls, on est un peu coincé: on arrive à JBG le 24 à 11H et le seul vol qu'on peut attraper pour ne pas perdre le bénéficie du 24 et ne pas perdre une journée supplémentaire est le vol JBG-Windhoek via South Africa Airlines
Attention au temps de transit à Johannesburg. Minimum 1h30.
En dépit des conditions météo, on s'entête et on va tenter le passage par Savuti....
L'aventure c'est l'aventure. Il faudra que tu loues un téléphone satellite, indispensable pour le Botswana en cas de soucis.
Je vais prendre contact avec African coeur safaris pour réserver les hébergements.
Excellente agence. Elle pourra s'occuper de la Namibie et du Botswana.
Pour les résa, il ne faut pas tarder notamment pour le Botswana.
Pour ma part j'envisage cette destination pour sept/oct 2017 et votre projet d'itinéraire est très intéressant. Je ne suis pas moi non plus expert sur ce pays ni sur la conduite de 4x4.... et mon épouse ne veut pas camper.... je crains que le budget ne suive pas.
En revanche nous ne sommes pas trop intéressés par Swakopmund et les colonies d'horaires (si je ne me trompe pas...).
Merci pour cet échange !
Ph.
Je trouve que vous êtes un peu ambitieux. Quand je voyage, je reste souvent 2 ou 3 jours pour découvrir tous les choses intéressantes de l’attraction comme la cuisine, la nature, les monuments… C’est très intéressant. Il vaut mieux de choisir certains lieux parmi les destinations prévues donc vous pouvez découvrir plus de choses à chaque endroit que vous visitez. Bon voyage !
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie / Botswana · 6 replies
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Un TO Français organise ce circuit. Est-ce que c’est cohérent ou vraiment une course? Sachant que l’observation des animaux n’est pas du tout ma priorité je…
Hi there,
I’m considering camping in Nyungwe Park with my family (2 adults, 2 kids) at Uwinka campsite. Problem: the park rents the tent but without any gear (mattresses, blankets). We don’t have a car. Is it possible to rent or buy mattresses and blankets near the park, please?
Thanks for your help
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hello,
We’re planning a route from Maun to Kazane and Victoria Falls for May 2027 in a Toyota Hilux 4x4, staying in lodges (no camping). Here’s the rough outline:
- Maun: Arrival likely from Johannesburg, 2 nights
- Khwai: 2 nights
- Return to Maun
- Need to decide on a stop between Maun and Sepopa?
- Sepopa: 2 nights
- Cross into Namibia: Bagani, 2 nights
- Kongola: 2 nights
- Katima Mulilo: 2 nights
- Kasane: 3 or 4 nights
- Victoria Falls: 1 or 2 nights
- Return to France from Kasane or Victoria Falls
What’s the road condition like between Maun and Khwai? The stop names are approximate based on accommodations.
Thanks for any feedback on this plan!
Ailleurs 64
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!
Hi, I’d like to travel to Ethiopia as a solo 60-year-old woman, backpacking style, between December 2025 and January 2026.
I’m wondering about the current state of the country: unrest, safety concerns, etc.
Government websites advise against going, saying it’s too dangerous.
But I’m skeptical—they tend to be overly cautious.
So I’m looking for reliable information, though I’m not sure where to find it.
Thanks in advance!
Hello,
We’re a group of four seventy-something retirees and we’re planning a 4-week trip to South Africa. We’re seasoned "adventurers" used to multi-week stays (we’ve been to India seven times, Mexico, Thailand, Laos, Myanmar, Australia, etc.).
For South Africa, we’re thinking of covering most of the trip in a private vehicle and taking flights for inter-state transfers.
We’re interested in meeting people, learning about the country’s evolution, exploring major cities, visiting traditional villages, and seeing wildlife.
Here’s the itinerary we’re considering:
Johannesburg – 2 days (we’ll pass through again later)
Pretoria – 2 days
Blyde River Canyon and Graskop – 1 day
Acornhoek – 1 day
Letaba – 2 days
Lobamba – 2 days
Johannesburg – 1 day
Flight to Cape Town
Cape Town – 3 days
Cape of Good Hope – 1 day
Stellenbosch – 1 day
Hermanus – 1 day
Mossel Bay – 2 days
Oudtshoorn
Wilderness – 2 days
Knysna
Port Elizabeth – 2 days
Addo Elephant Park
Flight back to Johannesburg
Johannesburg – 1 day
Return to Paris
Could you share your thoughts on this itinerary? We’ll be renting a vehicle to explore both regions.
We can easily add 4–5 more days to the trip if needed.
We’re looking at traveling either between April and May 2026 or in October/November 2026.
I’ll follow up later to discuss the best safari options and get a rough budget estimate.
Thanks to everyone who takes the time to read this and share their thoughts!
Hi,
I’m heading to Angola for two weeks starting mid-April and I’d like to rent a car to explore the country, but not a 4x4 to keep my budget in check. I plan to mostly stay in the western part and go as far as the Namibian border. Is it possible to drive in Iona Park without a 4x4, or to get to Kalendula or Piedra Negras? Also, is the Lubango–Huambo–Kuito–Malanje route doable in a city car? Lastly, do gas stations accept Visa?
Thanks for your feedback and tips!
Now that the Kruger part is (almost) wrapped up, I’m looking at the "Cape region" section.
The idea of spending 2 days (well, more like 2 nights and 1.5 days) in the Cederberg is really tempting 😎.
I’ve reread the posts about it—more or less (actually, more less than more)—and I still have quite a few questions:
- Where’s the best area to stay? Initially, I was looking at Kagga Kama, but I’m not sure if it’s worth the cost (or the trip, for that matter), or maybe Mount Ceder? Or somewhere else (without driving 6 or 8 hours from CT 😉)?
The plan is to get there in a sedan (if possible), see some beautiful landscapes, and do one or two hikes (nothing too tough 😛).
- I read that you need a permit to hike there... where do you buy it? (At the entrance, like in Kruger? 🤪)
- Is October a good time for the weather (theoretically...)?