Northern Thailand by bike: Bangkok to Chiang Mai route
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Translated into English.

Original post
SE
Hi there, Here’s our plan: traveling to CHIANG MAI from BANGKOK, passing through AYUTTHAYA and SUKHOTHAI, all by tandem bike with a trailer and a child. What do you think of this route (distance, scenery, elevation, challenges, etc.)? Any great tips for lodging or other advice are welcome. Thanks in advance.
PP Ppii Regular ·
Hello, I believe it—checked out VF member LUMPINI, the hero of the north. Personally, I only know the main roads by car, and I think the climbs aren’t too scary. That said, biking in Thailand puts you at the bottom of the food chain, so keep left and expect to get jostled in some of the narrower stretches up north.

What worries me more is the heat, especially with a child in tow. Avoid April in the north at all costs—I’d recommend November to February. The landscapes change (though not like in Europe), and the central plains might feel long. The climbs and scenery shifts really start around Utaradit and Pitsanulok.

I’d leave Bangkok by train to Ayutthaya.

Now, wait for other replies to piece it all together.
RO Routard14 Veteran ·
🙂 The Bangkok to Chiang Mai road is pretty dull and has really heavy traffic if you take the small roads. You’ll need a **very** good GPS because signs are often only in Thai, and it climbs a lot. To check the elevation changes based on your route, head to Google Earth—it shows altitudes with meter precision. I’ve got 300 photos of the whole trip on my site!

www.jpaventure.com
routard ou backpacker ok mais pas de voyage a n'importe quel prix
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hello.

I have a fantastic route with GPS tracks and KML files for Google Earth that goes through Kanchanaburi, Tha Kradan, Ban Tin Tok, Ban Rai, Mae Wong, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Mae Sot, Tha Song Yang, Mae Sariang, Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Son, Ban Chan, Samoeng, and Chiang Mai.

For the return trip, it's by bus to Sukhothai, then by bike to Bangkok in three days.

There are few national roads, and lots of trails and small roads. However, this route is very physical, and you need to travel light. It’s about 2,150 km with over 21,000 m of elevation gain. It took me a month with a bike under 30 kg. The return from Chiang Mai can be done by bus or train, which shortens the distance quite a bit, but doesn’t reduce the elevation gain since it’s practically flat.

I posted some photos here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sergeetsoa/Thailande2009

Cycling through the Karen villages is just amazing. The people are welcoming and even kinder than the Thais (which is saying something), and it more than makes up for the effort it takes to get there.

If you want the KML files, send me your email via PM.

Serge
PP Ppii Regular ·
Hi, This is a bike tour—less traffic and more scenery, but watch out for the hills with the trailer and the kid in back. If you've got the time, though, it's way better.
JA Jamesulysse ·
hi there, I did this route a few years ago (2004) taking the western route (Kanchanaburi, Uthai Thani, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Hot, Mae Sariang, Mae Hong Son). It’s a beautiful itinerary, especially the final stretch through the mountains along the Burmese border. But it’s pretty demanding physically, with some serious elevation changes—tandem with a trailer? Forget about it! This year, I’m heading out solo with a trailer (my daughter inside and me pedaling, or the other way around, depending on the day!) and I’m opting for a flatter route (southern part of the country). I’m used to hills (I live on Réunion Island, which IS one big hill), but with the trailer, it’s a whole different ball game. For temperatures, if you go between November and February, you’re good.

If you’ve got any other questions, don’t hesitate. Safe travels!
vous avez la montre, nous avons le temps (sagesse africaine)
BE Berber Veteran ·
Back in 2003, I did it in the north-to-south direction with a detour to Umphang, then a day and a half heading full east through the jungle with two Hmong guides and a pilgrim monk. The bike ended up being carried like a tiger on a bamboo pole, but I really enjoyed it. Safe travels, and don’t dose your daughter up too much when she’s in the trailer, huh!
PP Ppii Regular ·
Good evening, I just looked at the photos—exactly the time of year I advised against in my first reply. Beautiful region, stunning landscapes, charming little village, it’s all there, but the climbs after the storms—I wouldn’t wish them on anyone, not even on foot or in a 4x4. I think next time it won’t be this season, right? Selenit, looking at the photos, the main roads at the start make up at least 50% of the route through the center (not very interesting). Up to you to decide.
SE Selenit ·
Thanks everyone for your replies—I think I’ll revise my itinerary and probably tweak it a bit. I’ll look into it right away and share my new plan with you. Thanks again!
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi there.

All the main roads can be avoided, especially in the plains—you just need to spend time on Google Earth to find parallel paths, roads, or tracks, and load up a GPS. Otherwise, you’re guaranteed to get lost. That said, the prep work is *very* time-consuming, and you’ll need Google’s maps to be detailed for the region you’re visiting. It might also limit your daily kilometers if you’re trying to cover ground. On a dirt track, you’ll go slower than on a main road, plus you’ll be stopping all the time to chat or take photos. It’s also a good idea to have a backup GPS in case the first one fails and you don’t want to end up back on the main roads. But if the prep is solid, even a basic GPS without maps—like a Garmin 205—will do the trick.

For mountain biking in tandem, it’s already pushing your limits if you’re strong, and with a trailer, forget it. The route before Mae Sariang from the south is brutal, and Mae Hong Son to Samoeng? I won’t even get into it. In Mae Sariang, I caught up with a German couple who’d taken two days to cover the same stretch and were heading straight to Chiang Mai, completely put off. Best to avoid ending up there.

Serge
SE Selenit ·
After digging around online, I found this route that seems way cooler: Chiang Rai - Wiang Pa Pao - Chiang Khong - Mae Sai - Tha Ton - Doi Thung - Phrao - Chiang Dao - Chiang Mai - with the must-see Doi Suthep.

Thoughts from those in the know?
PP Ppii Regular ·
Hello, Doi Suthep is an excursion in the outskirts of Chiang Mai (a nice climb, though—good exercise with the return to Chiang Mai). The main-road trip from Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai during the season (watch out) is pretty good, despite two passes that shouldn’t be underestimated and heavy traffic. Mae Sai is a breeze (still on the main road). So why not take a detour through Chiang Saen, Chiang Khong, Chiang Kham, Phayao, and return to Chiang Mai via the Wang Nua route? After all, when exploring the north, you won’t escape the climbs—sometimes my tractor struggles to make it up!

Have you checked out Monsieur LUMPINI’s site? It’s worth it—he’s explored these regions but via the backroads.
PP Ppii Regular ·
Hi there, I’m sorry to bother you, but a little question just popped into my head—just for info, do you know Thailand? And if so, which places? To help you out, it’d be easier if I knew a bit more—there’s no info on your profile?
SE Selenit ·
Nope, unfortunately we’ve never been to Thailand. It’d be a first for us!!!
PP Ppii Regular ·
Hello, That’s exactly what I thought, but no worries—there’s no problem at all. You’re just going to discover another planet. It’s good to know that upfront. Maybe someone can cook up a route for you. You’ve already had several suggestions, but the north is all about mountains—not very high ones, though. The roads take shortcuts, which is why the climbs are so steep, and that’s also why everyone talks about the "chariot" behind. Anyway, I encourage you to keep going! Grab a map and check where the peaks and valleys are. The route I suggested isn’t very original, but it limited the climbs and kilometers a bit more. So, the next question: how much time do you have? http://voyageforum.com/membres/lumpini/v.f?url=http%3A%2F%2Fvelo-thailand.over-blog.com%2F http://voyageforum.com/membres/lumpini/v.f?url=http%3A%2F%2Friton.travelblog.fr%2F Here are the links to check out Lumpini’s travels. Have a great day, and happy reading!
SU Supervéloman Regular ·
Like the others, I can confirm that the CM - Mae Sariang - Mae Hong Son section, while beautiful, is also... grueling. Really, really tough, even for me since I was well-trained. The terrain is a bit like the Alps in terms of elevation, with some steep climbs and very tight turns. The moral of the story? If you "park" your bike on a slope and brake, the bike—weighed down by luggage—will slide backward... Tough on the morale... But reach out to Eric "Lumpini"—he’ll whip up a tailor-made route for you. Either way, have a great and beautiful trip. The key is to believe in it, right?
A l'est... Toujours à l'est...
TH Throdet ·
Hello, My name is Thierry, I live in Thailand, and I do a bit of cycling. Your route with GPS tracks and KML files for Google Earth really interests me (the one passing through Kanchanaburi, Tha Kradan, Ban Tin Tok, Ban Rai, Mae Wong, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Mae Sot, Tha Song Yang, Mae Sariang, Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Son, Ban Chan, Samoeng, Chiang Mai). I hope you still have these precious details. Thanks a lot! Thierry

Hello.

I have a fantastic route with GPS tracks and KML files for Google Earth that passes through Kanchanaburi, Tha Kradan, Ban Tin Tok, Ban Rai, Mae Wong, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Mae Sot, Tha Song Yang, Mae Sariang, Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Son, Ban Chan, Samoeng, and Chiang Mai.

For the return trip, I took a bus to Sukhothai, then cycled back to Bangkok in three days.

There are few national roads, and lots of trails and small routes. However, this route is very demanding physically, and you need to travel light. It’s about 2,150 km with over 21,000 m of elevation gain. It took me a month with a bike weighing under 30 kg. The return from Chiang Mai can be done by bus or train, which shortens the distance quite a bit, but doesn’t reduce the elevation gain since it’s practically flat.

I posted some photos here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sergeetsoa/Thailande2009

Cycling through the Karen villages is just amazing. The people are welcoming and even kinder than the Thais (which is saying a lot), and it more than makes up for the effort it takes to get there.

If you want the KML files, send me your email via PM.

Serge
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi Thierry,

All my routes are available here: http://www.bikemap.net/user/vapkse/routes

You can export them.

Serge
TH Throdet ·
Thanks, I just realized you had replied! I can't open the link, but I installed Bikemap, so I'll figure it out. Thanks!

Hello Thierry,

All my routes are available here: http://www.bikemap.net/user/vapkse/routes

You can export them.

Serge
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi

The links have changed over time, try this URL: http://www.bikemap.net/fr/user/vapkse/

Sege
2M 2MAVelo ·
Hi Serge,

We’re planning a fairly light bike trip from Bangkok to Chiang Mai since we won’t be bringing anything for sleeping.

You made a KML track that might interest us. If you could send it our way, we’d really appreciate it.

Cheers,
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi

First off, you should know that the 250 km south of Chiang Mai are on national highways and aren’t very fun. It’s certainly beautiful because it’s mountainous, but it’s borderline dangerous. Taking the train is a great alternative. The best way to get to Chiang Mai—if you’re not afraid of mountains and have the time—is via Mae Hong Son. It’s tough, but unforgettable.

I’ve posted two KML sets here: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ao4RXwvTfBtoxdNhkvW1uPEaufDN1g https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ao4RXwvTfBtoxdNftZ1VTrBYYyx2QQ

In the first one, which I did in 2009, you’ll find the climb via Mae Hong Son, passing through Kanchanaburi, and the direct descent minus the dangerous section I took by bus.

In the second, there’s the climb I did in 2013, which also goes through Kanchanaburi.

If I had to choose between the three routes, my preferences are: 1) 2009 climb (via Mae Hong Son) 2) 2013 climb 3) 2009 descent

I much prefer the first over the second, and the second over the third. While routes 2 and 3 are easily doable for most touring cyclists, that’s not the case for the first. You should know that between Mae Hong Son and Wat Chan (Bat Chan), there’s 4,000 m of positive elevation gain and 3,000 m of negative over 80 km, with climbs and descents of 20% to 30%. Plan for two days or more, with a stop in a Karen village. If there’s one place you *have* to go in Thailand, it’s here—but like all unforgettable spots, it’s also hard to reach. Also, be mindful of Thai and Karen customs and etiquette. People in these remote areas don’t see tourists often, and it’s important not to leave a bad impression, which unfortunately happens too much in the rest of the country and touristy regions.

One more thing: I ride with a mountain bike and Continental Travel Contact tires. My routes aren’t always paved—there can be rocks or dirt paths. A touring bike with Marathon tires will handle it fine, but racing tires won’t.

Don’t hesitate if you’ve got other questions.

Serge
2M 2MAVelo ·
Thanks Serge for these details!

We’re heading out this winter for a 3-month bike trip from Bangkok to Chiang Mai, then a quick hop to Mandalay, Pagan, and Inle Lake, followed by Laos.

If you’ve got any tips, we’d love to hear them!

For bikes, we’re on 26-inch wheels with 45mm Marathon tires. The catch is my wife can’t handle 20% gradients, so we end up pushing the bikes.

Thanks again for the routes—think we might be neighbors since we work in Geneva and my wife is Swiss.

Thanks again!
VA Vapkse Regular ·
I don’t know how much time you’ve planned after Chiang Mai, but with three months, I’d go through Mae Hong Son. If your bike—weighing 30 kg—can climb La Croisette without a hitch, it’ll handle the hills there, even if you have to redistribute the load. You could also reach Chiang Mai via Pai, but that’d be a real shame. The weight you’re carrying is still one of the key factors for climbing hills.

The climbs aren’t ever too long—about 2–3 km—then it’s downhill and back up again, and so on. For me, there were one or two climbs where I had to push halfway. There are quite a few villages along the way, and people I know, but communication isn’t easy since few speak English.

I completed the loop in under a month—fast, too fast—but work commitments didn’t leave me much choice. Doing half in a month is more relaxed; it lets you shorten the distances and enjoy the places you like even more.

I sent you a PM.

Serge
RO Routard14 Veteran ·
hi the route follows the via Route 11, 721 km via road number 1 that makes 698 km maybe easier in my opinion anyway, you have to leave Bangkok via the n 11 then at Tha Ngam go through Tak if you want something else, don’t hesitate—happy travels!
routard ou backpacker ok mais pas de voyage a n'importe quel prix
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi there

The purpose of GPS tracks is to avoid the national highways, which quickly become nightmarish and very dangerous in Thailand, and often lack any real interest.

My tracks only go through small villages and rural roads (four-digit roads or even unnumbered ones), except when it’s not possible or I had to make a connection. Even leaving Bangkok can be done while avoiding the big boulevards.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/1Xzoe5uuKWe99jUi2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/Y3kPZEvwBEJkuQ5G3
CO Corentinlf ·
Hello.

I have a fantastic route with GPS tracks and KML files for Google Earth that goes through Kanchanaburi, Tha BKradan, Ban Tin Tok, Ban Rai, Mae Wong, Kamphaeng Phet, Tak, Mae Sot, Tha Song Yang, Mae Sariang, Khun Yuam, Mae Hong Son, Ban Chan, Samoeng, and Chiang Mai.

And for the return trip, by bus to Sukhothai, then by bike back to Bangkok in three days.

There are few national roads, and lots of trails and small roads. However, this route is very demanding physically, and you need to travel light. It’s about 2,150 km with over 21,000 meters of elevation gain. It took me a month with a bike under 30 kg. The return from Chiang Mai can be done by bus or train, which shortens the distance quite a bit, but doesn’t reduce the elevation gain since it’s practically flat.

I posted photos here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/sergeetsoa/Thailande2009

Biking through the Karen villages is just amazing. The people are welcoming and even kinder than the Thais (which is saying something), and it more than makes up for the effort it takes to get there.

If you want the KML files, send me your email via PM.

Serge

Hi Serge, It’s been a while since you did this, but I’d love to do more or less the same route! Do you still have those files? Thanks a lot! Corentin
VA Vapkse Regular ·
Hi

You’ll find the KML files here—let me know if you need GPX or can’t access them. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ubrb13op4pt9r8wbepriv/AHVFWzQ7vR9I5coXbIantqs?rlkey=fsms034e8e3cnbr7b2y16xad4&st=7wbp57so&dl=0

Or here are all the tracks, which you can edit and export as GPX if you have a Bikemap subscription. Just a heads-up—I don’t have any affiliation with Bikemap, but it’s super handy for creating routes. You can also use OpenCycleMap with a subscription. https://web.bikemap.net/c/256316

I’d recommend preparing your routes before you leave and sticking to them. Avoid the main roads. Thailand has tons of small, beautiful, and pleasant roads, but improvising on the spot is really tough because the alphabet is unreadable on maps and signs, there are so many intersections, and people will always direct you toward a main road instead of showing you the back roads.

The most interesting stretch is from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai. But watch out—it climbs steeply, so you’ll want really low gears.

Have a great trip! Serge
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi everyone,

Regarding the route 105 from Mae Sot to Mae Sariang, I see that some of you mention Tha Song Yang, but it turns out there are actually two separate places about 70 km apart with the same name along this road: - The first is a small town with a few accommodations: 17°13'35.81"N 98°13'43.55"E - The other is a village with no accommodations, which locals distinguish from the first by adding the prefix "ban" (village), so Ban Tha Song Yang: 17°33'48.23"N 97°54'50.60"E. Many maps mix the two up.

Also: - The entire road is now paved. However, there’s very little traffic (and almost no trucks), especially between Tha Song Yang and Mae Sariang, and even less from Ban Tha Song Yang to Mae Sariang. - The pass between Ban Tha Song Yang and Mae Sariang is often in the clouds (with visibility around twenty meters) and chilly.
CO Corentinlf ·
Hi there,

You’ll find the KML files here—let me know if you need GPX files or can’t access them. https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/ubrb13op4pt9r8wbepriv/AHVFWzQ7vR9I5coXbIantqs?rlkey=fsms034e8e3cnbr7b2y16xad4&st=7wbp57so&dl=0

Or here are all the tracks, which you can edit and export as GPX if you have a Bikemap subscription. Just a heads-up—I don’t have any affiliation with Bikemap, but it’s super handy for creating routes. You can also use OpenCycleMap with a subscription. https://web.bikemap.net/c/256316

I’d recommend preparing your routes before you leave and sticking to them. Avoid the main roads. Thailand has tons of small, beautiful, and pleasant backroads, but improvising on the spot is tough because the alphabet is unreadable on maps and signs, there are so many intersections, and people will always direct you toward a main road instead of showing you the smaller paths.

The most interesting stretch is from Mae Hong Son to Chiang Mai. But be warned—it’s steep, so you’ll want really low gears.

Have a great trip! Serge

Hey Serge, thanks a million for this goldmine! I can access the KML files, but if you happen to have the GPX files ready and it’s not too much trouble, that’d be awesome for my GPS device!

The backroads *are* so much nicer...

Can’t wait to tackle those mountains—it’s my favorite part!

Thanks again, Corentin
PI Pierlu Regular ·
I’d recommend planning your route carefully before you leave and sticking to it. Avoid the main roads. Thailand has tons of small roads that are really beautiful and pleasant, but it’s super hard to improvise once you’re there—because the alphabet is unreadable on maps and signs, there are so many intersections, and people will always direct you toward a main road instead of showing you the small paths.

Hi there, In Thailand, where I cycle regularly, there’s indeed a pretty well-developed secondary road network. But that’s mostly true in the plains. In the mountains, secondary roads are limited or even nonexistent, so your route choices are pretty much made for you. To avoid getting lost, the best thing is an offline smartphone app like Maps.me, OsmAnd, or Mapy.cz. These apps can sometimes have errors, though. Last winter, I upgraded my setup with a 5G SIM card and started using Google Maps. Now it’s impossible to get lost, but the sense of adventure is gone 😅. The mobile network with the best coverage is AIS. Otherwise, I can confirm that the Mae Hong Son loop is really tough, with steep climbs of 20% or more. For cycling in Northern Thailand, I wrote a trip report here: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=9945930#9945930

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