What to see and do in the Dolomites and when?
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Translated into English.

Original post
HE
Hi everyone,

The last time we saw the Dolomites—briefly—was back in 1982. Obviously, things have changed dramatically since then, as few Italian tourist spots are spared from crowds these days.

So, I have two questions:

1) When? Which period offers relatively good weather and moderate crowds? I was thinking October, but are the cable cars still running then? And what about accommodations?

2) Where? Which "must-see" spots should we skip? On the other hand, which places should we prioritize?

We’d like to do a few hikes—moderate in terms of time, distance, and elevation gain.

Thanks for your tips!
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
Hi Michel,

I couldn’t really tell you about the crowds since I went there in 2021, right in the middle of Covid.

There was already one downside, though: Lago di Braies.

I think Diamina also experienced crowds at Marmolada.

The Tre Cime di Lavaredo are also super popular!

So in the summer, forget it. Spring is out too because of the snow.

That leaves autumn, then?

I really loved Prato Piazza.

You can find my thoughts on the Dolomites on my blog.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Good evening I remember a really beautiful hike Lake Sorapis starting from Passo Tre Croci. Moderate difficulty but absolutely stunning scenery!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
Hi there,

I spent a week doing moderate, stunning hikes during the week of August 15th in the Puez-Odle National Park in 2023. The mountain huts were packed (though, between the kaiserschmarrn and the strudel, it’s easy to treat yourself—guilt-free since you’re hiking!), but the trails themselves remained really pleasant. It was nothing like the neighboring Val Gardena, which was swarming with people and where we unfortunately spent a day. I imagine that by early September, this kind of Dolomite destination is already much quieter.

Catherine
By this, and this only, we have existed. Which is not to be found in our obituaries. (T.S. Eliot)
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
As for the best month to go, I’d pick September over October. October is a bit late.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
HE Herodotos Regular ·
Hi Agnès,

Thanks for your reply. To be honest, I’d read your travel journal, as well as this one, and I saw that crowds were high in some places during the summer. I also remember Diamina mentioning packed parking lots, but I can’t recall where—probably Tre Cime or Marmolada. So we’ll rule those out right away.

As for Lago di Braies, that might be the one we had to skip due to the massive traffic jam just to get there—and that was back in August 1982! So we’ll give it a miss if we decide on the Dolomites.

I’ve been thinking about a stay around Alpe di Siusi (Seiser Alm) and the Odle massif. Not sure yet... I’ll keep Prato Piazza in mind.
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
HE Herodotos Regular ·
Good evening,

Thanks for your reply. Obviously, we’ll avoid July and August.

If Val Gardena is packed, where should we stay—outside of mountain huts—since it’s the access valley to the Puez-Odle massif in Puez-Odle Nature Park, right?
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
HE Herodotos Regular ·
Lake Sorapis from Passo Tre Croci.

I’ll keep that in mind, thanks!
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
UN UnaMilanese Veteran ·
If Val Gardena is packed, where to stay—outside of mountain huts—since it’s the access valley to the Puez-Odle massif in P.N. (Parco Naturale), right?

One of the access points to part of the massif...

You can also get there from Val di Funes, where we stayed. In Tiso, or Ties in the local dialect. There are two hotels that are really great.

Cat
By this, and this only, we have existed. Which is not to be found in our obituaries. (T.S. Eliot)
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Hi Michel, I’ll give you some more suggestions for Trentino (the Dolomites part). In this province, there’s a "guest card" (if your accommodation participates...) that includes, among other things, free public transport throughout the province—check out "Trentino Guest Card". Back in 2021, I was in Val di Fassa, Val di Fiemme (Predazzo, Pozza di Fassa, Canazei), and bus services connected the towns and villages as well as the mountain passes. It’s perfect for hiking since you can do routes that aren’t loops or out-and-backs. The summer service ran until Sunday, September 12; after that, there were fewer connections.

So, in Trentino, I’d recommend the first half of September.

For hiking: -Check the bus stops and look for possible routes without too much elevation gain, or even mostly downhill ones that match the duration you’re after. Example: Passo Rolle to San Martino di Castrozza via the Colbricon lakes and Colbricon pass (a balcony hike in front of the "Pale di San Martino").

Other ideas (round-trip or loops):

- From San Martino di Castrozza, take the cable car + funicular up to Cima Rosetta (no guest card discount). From the funicular station, you can explore the "Altopiano delle Pale" freely. The place inspired Dino Buzzati’s setting for Fort Bastiani. - From Pozza di Fassa, take two chairlifts (guest card discount applies) and then hike the "Torri del Vajolet" (round-trip) in the Catinaccio massif (steep section to reach the towers—you can stop earlier at the refuge). - From the ski jump near Predazzo, take the cable car + chairlift (arrive at Passo Feudo, guest card discount applies), then do the Latemar loop ("Torre di Pisa" refuge). Elevation gain is around 500–700 meters, if I remember correctly. There are plenty of other options.
Valmichel86
HE Herodotos Regular ·
Hi Michel, thanks for these suggestions. I’ll check all of that out. Was September a good option in terms of crowds? Though with Covid going on...
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
HE Herodotos Regular ·
I notice—and regret—that the title of this discussion was changed by moderation without my knowledge because it loses all meaning relative to my original question, which was: when and where to avoid the crowds? Of course, I’d never ask something like: "What to see and do in Pétaouchnok"!!! 🤪
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
AT Attila Globetrotter ·
You can message the moderators to have them restore your title. I used to do that pretty often back in the day with the old team. Usually, it was put back.
Ponts du monde : concours de photos amical de juillet 2026 Rubrique Jeux Voyages C'est le moment de poster vos meilleurs clichés !
HE Herodotos Regular ·
I did it last night, but I haven't gotten any response yet. I think the process is pretty rude. On Routard, we're warned...
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote
VA Valmichel86 Regular ·
Hi Michel, I’m revisiting the question of crowds.

Only one place felt crowded to me: Passo Pordoi. That makes sense—it’s a legendary pass, packed with shops (though is that the cause or the result of the crowds?), and the cable car that takes people up to Sass Pordoi from the pass. It didn’t bother me much because I’d taken the bus. After walking 300 meters from the pass on the hike I did, there was no one around.

One busy hiking trail (but nothing like a procession): the stretch from Passo Rolle to Baita Segantini.

For everything else I saw, the crowds were moderate.

My impression is that, aside from a few rare spots (just one for me), the chance of running into packed places is low in September (Trentino side of the Dolomites). Was September 2022 an unusually quiet September (due to Covid)? I don’t know—I don’t have anything to compare it to.
Valmichel86
HE Herodotos Regular ·
Thanks so much for these details! 🙂
https://www.myatlas.com/Herodote

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