je viens souvent sur le site en tant qu'observateur, car je débute dans la randonnée vélo. J'ai effectué le tour de bretagne l'été dernier avec une remorque de ma fabrication. Je souhaiterais inverstir pour des sacoches ortlieb. J'hésite entre les modèles bike parcker plus ou classic et back roller plus ou classic.J'ai déjà lu quelques remarques sur les sacoches ortlieb, beaucoup de qualités mais aussi quelques défaults, entre autre, le prix et qu'elles ne respirent pas suffisament (l'humidité reste à l'intérieur).
Je souhaite donc avoir vos avis sur la différence entre les gammes et les tissus utilisés.En vous remerciant par avance de vos remarques et de votre expérience.
Willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
Pas d'ortlied pour nous, mais des vaudes. Les modéle à fermeture par enroulement sont les plus pratiques. Bien sur que l'humidité reste à l'intérieure, C'est la définition d'étanche. Pas d'évaporation si tu rentre ton linge mouillé. Je pense que le phénoméne doit être presque autant visible avec des sacoches bas de gamme! La solution c'est de ranger son linge humide dans une poche plastique bien fermée et de laisser ouvertes les sacoches sous l'avancée de la tenete durand la nuit! c'est sur que si on oublie une paire de chaussettes humides quelques jours.......
Merci Jyves pour ta réponse, je souhaiterais avoir, si c'est possible, la référence de tes vaudes car je ne suis pas particulièrement attaché à la marque ortlieb, mais à de la qualité, et si tes vaudes sont de qualité alors je suis preneur.
Merci pour ton renseignement.
Willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
Pour moi, vaude et ortlieb se valent. Le choix c'est fait sur l'opportunité du prix. Les miennes sont des World tramp plus, un poil plus grande que les Ortlieb, avec une poches ext en plus. Le systéme de fixation semble un peu moins robuste sur les vaudes, mais pour moi jamais de pb, pourtant chargé (tandem)
en effet pourquoi? Et bien je me la pose aussi cette question, en fait je ne suis pas complétement sur de vouloir changer, mais je me renseigne quand même pour équiper mon vélo en sacoche.
Pour revenir à ta question, j'ai donc testé ma remorque sur environ 2000 km. Je sais que beaucoup de personnes et moi le premier ne savent pas quel système de portage prendre: Manque d'expérience peut être. Avant de la fabriquer j'ai longtemps hésité, j'ai lu pas mal discussion autour de ça mais au final je crois que le débat sur le système de portage est une chose difficile à départager.La remorque à ces avantages, velo nu, adaptation sur tout type de vélo, montage et démontage assez simple. Pour ce qui est des incovénients: volume reduit, un seul sac de rangement, je n'ai pas essayé mais pour prendre le train ou l'avion est ce que l'on doit payer pour la remorque?, tenue de route? je sais pas, car je n'ai pas pu comparer.
Il est vrai que tout ça est un budget. S'équiper en sacoche ou avec une remorque revient sensiblement au même. En ce qui me concerne, bien que la remorque soit de farication maison, elle m'a quand même couté 300€ (et beaucoup de plaisir à la faire et rouler avec ensuite)
Je ne sais pas si j'ai répondu à ta question..........
A plus
Willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
pas de problème sauf que je n'ai pas de numérique, les seules photos que j'ai d'elle sont des argentiques, il faudra patienter un peu, le temps de les scanner...
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
Salut J'ai fait un tour d'europe(19200 km)avec les classiques, 2 grandes jaunes à l'arriere et 2 plus petites bleues à l'avant qui ont tres bien rempli leur fonction et qui sont tres pratiques.Conclusion si tu veux faire un peu d'economie, contentes toi des Ortlieb classiques
merci pour ta réponse.Je ne suis pas parti pour un tour d'europe, mais j'espère un jour. Pour le moment je pense investir dans du costaud dès le début, pour ne pas devoir refaire un autre achat dans quelques années. En ce qui concerne tes sacoches, se sont des bike packer ou des back roller, les premières fermeture par clips, les deuxième par enroulment.Comment as tu fait ton choix.
Merci d'avance
Willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
je te fais parvenir une photo de l'attelage. On ne voit pas garnd chose mais je n'ai pas de photo détaillé de la remorque.
Elle est constitué de deux arceaux démontable et identique et le barc de raccordement avec le velo qui constitue la troisième partie.
Willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
Je viens de découvrir ce forum, quelle bonne surprise !! Les Ortlieb classic sont vraiment fiables et résistent à l'usure comme à la pluie, le prix est rentabilisé à l'usage. Nous les avons utilisé pour deux longs voyages en europe sur tous types de chemins (voir notre site dans le profil eventuellement) avec un chargement conséquent. Ta remorque parait parfaite en tout cas, le choix entre les deux relève vraiment du confort personnel et dépend aussi de la nature de tes voyages futurs. Nous allons maintenant utiliser une combinaison des deux avec notre petite fille. Je vous souhaite à tous une bonne année et des voyages à profusion !
Bonjour
Sauf à vouloir les immerger complètement, les bike-packer "classic" ou "plus" sont largement suffisantes du point de vue étanchéïté, tu peux avoir de l'eau à mi-sacoche sans problème. Si tu trébuches dans un gué profond l' intérieur des rollers restera au sec, les "bike-packer" prendront l'eau.
Le système de fixation est plus sofistiqué sur les "plus": réglage des crochets sans clé mais une fois régler pour ton porte-bagage de toute façon on n'y touche plus.Le système de retenue en bas du porte bagage est plus polyvalent sur les "plus".
Les "bike-packer plus" comportent une poche filet sur le coté bien pratique pour faire sècher une bricole comme le gant de toilette, le maillot de bain ou la paire de chaussette encore humide du lavage...Ce filet n'est malheureusement pas disponible au détail pour les rajouter sur les "classic" et de toute façon les entraxes de trous de fixation ne sont pas compatibles.Pas de poche filet pour les "roller".
Le tissu des "plus" est moins fragile au frottement abrasif(contre un mur, un rocher, une bordure de trottoir...)que les "classic"
Par contre une petite poche à enroulement est disponible en option ou en accessoire pour les "classic" comme les "plus" (à fixer à l'arriere de la sacoche).
Perso: j'utilise des bike-packer classic et les trouve plus esthétique que les "roller"
Les "plus" sont 25% + cher que les "classic"
Je suis du même avis : la fermeture à enroulement est utile si on est confronté à des conditions extrêmes (passage de gués etc...), mais la fermeture à enroulement est assez "chiante" à mon gout 😕. J'ai des front roller plus à l'avant, et je viens de prendre des bike packer plus pour l'arrière pour la fermeture plus rapide et, comme le souligne françonet, une poche filet pour faire sécher ce qui doit l'être😉
Une autre différence (entre les plus et les classic) est le diamètre du porte-bagage sur lequel elles peuvent se fixer, les plus offrent une taille en +.
Je trouve que les back-roller plus, même si elles sont + chères ont l'avantage de la fixation supp. Elles sont + flexibles et donc + faciles à régler.
Avec les "plus" tu peux aussi incliner les sacoches pour ne pas qu'elles frottent avec l'arrière de tes chaussures en pédalant et je trouve ça bien utile!
Il est aussi facile d'y accrocher son linge sur le dessus pour le faire sécher...
A l'avant, j'ai opté pour les sport-packer + car les front-roller étaient trop petites.
J'espère t'avoir été utile.
Merci pour ton avis. Le seul point qui me fait hésiter entre les deux références de sacoche c'est le sytème de fermeture, par enroulement ou par clips.... certains disent que par enroulement c'est un peu galère. je ne sais pas ce que tu en penses.
Il y a aussi un autre point sur lequel je me pose une question, c'est la grandeur d'ouverture.Est elle différente entre les deux.
merci d'avance
willy
"Ils l'ont fait parce qu'ils ne savaient pas que c'était impossible" (Marc Twain)
Salut, fermeture par enroulement, j'ai fait mon choix par souci d'economie mais il est vrai que les par clips te donnent un gain de poids.Pour moi les unes ou les autres ne changent pas grand chose.Ce sont les meilleures sacoches, vraiment excellentes.Sinon il y a le materiel indispensable et le reste est totalement dans la motivation du voyageur qui veut faire des milles et des milles sur son vélo Have nice trips
Je souhaite m'acheter un nouveau vélo pour faire du cyclo camping. Je compte pouvoir aller sur des chemins/pistes/... même chargé (évidemment sans aller…
Je suis actuellement dans les préparatifs de mon voyage qui je l'espère me mènera jusqu’à Compostelle. Je travaille sur ma condition de "sportif" mais je…
Cet été ns avons décide de faire Bordeaux Montpellier, avec notre fille de 2 ans dans son chariot. L'année dernière ns avons fait les bords de Loire. - est ce…
Lors de mes recherches sur le net je suis tombé plusieurs fois sur ce forum donc je me suis dit que ce serait intéressant d'y demander de bons conseils. Après…
Je prépare actuellement une traversée de l'Europe et de l'Asie à vélo (départ prévu pour Avril 2021 sauf si contre-indication du COVID). Je me pose aujourd'hui…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.