Is Ratanakiri still worth visiting?
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Translated into English.

Original post
BA
Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Cambodia and was set on visiting the Ratanakiri region, which seemed to match what we love most in terms of landscapes: forests, jungle, greenery...

However, as I started looking into the area, I read that deforestation there is massive, and some of the info on the topic is years old—the situation hasn’t improved since, unfortunately.

So my question is: is Ratanakiri still worth visiting, and does it justify the long travel time and distance to get there?

I’ve seen that jungle treks are possible, but from experience, I know guides sometimes hesitate to venture deep into the forest and stick to shorter walks along the edges of parks.

Thanks in advance for your feedback.
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
Hello,

The region has changed a lot, especially around Banlung, Lumphat, and along the main roads. There are now many large monoculture concessions, like those for rubber, cashew nuts, or bananas. Despite this, there are still beautiful waterfalls around Banlung, as well as the volcanic lake of Yeak Laom and the surrounding forest trail. Visiting the minority villages is still possible (there are 12 ethnic minorities in this province, I believe). Walking with elephants at Airavata is also a great experience! Above all, Virachey National Park remains largely preserved. While the 2-day/1-night treks don’t allow you to venture deep into the park, it’s possible to organize longer hikes of up to 4-5 days with the park rangers. This way, you can reach wilder and more spectacular areas like the Veal Thom hills. I’ve never been there myself, but the photos are dreamy! Camera traps scattered throughout the park last year revealed a diverse biodiversity: Asian elephants, gaurs, bantengs, dholes, clouded leopards, pangolins, all sorts of birds, monkeys, and deer, etc. It’s quite encouraging, as poaching is still present, especially from nearby Vietnam.

Depending on the length of your trip in Cambodia, I’d still recommend adding Ratanakiri—and the northeast region in general (Kampong Cham, Kratie, and/or Stung Treng along the Mekong, Mondolkiri / Ratanakiri). It’s a pleasant province that’s worth the detour, in my opinion. Travel can be a bit tricky on the dirt roads during the rainy season, though. In Banlung, I recommend the Garden View Lodge & Trekking—wooden bungalows and a very friendly English-speaking Khmer family.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Hi there,

Thanks for this interesting info—it’s really helping me think things through.

If I had to pick just one region between Ratanakiri and Mondolkiri, which would you recommend?

We haven’t planned the stops or total number of days yet, but unfortunately, we won’t have more than 20 days on the ground, so we’ll have to make some tough choices.

Thanks again, and have a great evening.
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
Both destinations are pleasant and have their own unique charms, but Mondulkiri is more easily accessible from Phnom Penh. It takes about 6 hours by minibus to reach Sen Monorom. The journey is long if you want to continue to Siem Reap (around ten hours), which is why I usually recommend stopping for two days along the Mekong River in Kampong Cham. With the new bridge recently built over the Mekong near Kratie, you can now also make this stop in that other town on the east bank of the river.

Mondulkiri is especially known for its rolling landscapes, with grassy hills (stunning during the rainy season) and forested valleys. Travelers come here for treks and to see domesticated elephants that tourism has rescued from daily forest labor. You’ll also find the impressive double waterfall of Bou Sra and, further away, the massive basalt rock of Phnom Namlyr, which dominates the region and offers a superb view of the surroundings (be careful—the climb is dangerous with a steep slope and only a rope for a handrail).

You can stay directly in the small town of Sen Monorom or a little further south in Putang, where treks and walks to meet elephants and Bunong ethnic villages start. You can get information from Damrey So Garden Homestay ("the garden of the white elephant" in English), based in Putang with a magnificent view of the valley. The French owner offers excursions with a Bunong guide.

I’m posting a photo of Phnom Namlyr where young monks were having fun making their robes billow in the gusts of wind.
BA Bananette Regular ·
Merci beaucoup ! Chouette photo 😉

L'idée pour nous c'est d'atterrir à Phnom Penh, de continuer sur Kratie et ensuite le Mondolkiri ou le Ratanakiri puis bien sûr Siem Reap.

Bonne soirée
ER Erwanploz Regular ·
D'accord. Dans ce cas, pour ne pas perdre trop de temps dans les transports, il vaut mieux faire PP - Mondolkiri - Kratie - SR. Le trajet PP - Mondolkiri ne passe pas par Kampong Cham ou Kratie mais il traverse la province de Prey Veng par la N8 pour passer ensuite par Memot et ainsi couper au plus court. Si vous choisissez Ratanakiri en revanche, votre itinéraire PP - Kratie - Ratanakiri - Siem Reap est le bon. Enfin, si jamais vous décidez finalement de visiter les deux, le trajet Mondolkiri - Ratanakiri se fait en deux heures et demi sur une très bonne route quasi déserte ! Bon voyage !

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