Je rentre enchanté, après 3 semaines passées à Sumbawa, une île réellement restée à l'écart du tourisme de masse.
De Maluk-Rantung à Sumbawa Besar, en passant par Lakey, j'ai découvert à scooter (sur des routes en général excellentes !) des paysages superbes, et surtout, une population incroyablement accueillante (tellement heureuse et surprise de rencontrer quelques touristes).
A tous ceux qui envisagent le voyage, n'hésitez pas à me contacter pour des hébergements, des conseils pratiques, des coordonnées de guides...
Alors comme quoi il ne faut pas toujours écouter les guides papier qui disent que Subawa est une ile où les "infidèles" ne sont pas les bienvenus 😛
Il y a 2 ans nous avions passé 12 jours sur Flores un peu plus à l'est. Nous en gardons un super souvenir.
Ah oui !
Je ferais la même remarque pour la province d'Aceh qui a mauvaise réputation (et c'est justifié si on regarde leur législation) mais dont j'ai trouvé la population aussi avenante et accueillante qu'ailleurs en Indonésie.
Bonjour,
Y a-t-il des endroits en particulier que tu as apprécié à Sumbawa ?
J'avais opté comme beaucoup d'autres pour le bateau entre Lombok et Flores et je n'ai vu cette île que de loin. (Par ailleurs les bateaux ne sont pas très sûrs en Indo...)
Il y a sûrement pas mal de voyageurs qui seraient intéressés par quelques conseils d'étapes sur Sumbawa.
Merci
alors olivier tu vas nous faire poireauter encore un peu pour ce compte rendu?
dis nous ce qui est différent à sumbawa par rapport aux coins plus touristiques d'indonésie (bali, lombok, sulawesi, flores que tu connais déjà....)
autres choses plus pratiques:prix plus doux? hébergements confortables? des belles plages? du snorkeling?
transports faciles? existe t il des guides anglophones? un peu de touristes quand même? un peu de "bintang" quand même?contacts faciles avec les locaux ?
cdt
jean-louis
Je réponds à tous ceux qui veulent en savoir plus sur mon expérience de 3 semaines à Sumbawa.
Pour Macecobapan :
Tout d'abord, je ne savais pas que certains guides papier affirmaient que "les infidèles" n'étaient pas les bienvenus à Sumbawa, quelle stupidité ! Pour ma part, partout, absolument partout où je suis allé (Rantung-Maluk, Sumbawa Besar et les villages environnants, Lakey, Lunyuk, Empang), j'ai rencontré une population réellement extraordinaire (sans aucune exagération, et j'ai l'habitude de voyager, donc, vous pouvez me croire), curieuse, amicale. Comme je voyageais durant la période précédant la fin du ramadan, j'ai pu rencontrer, notamment le soir, beaucoup de monde me proposant de partager un verre, un en-cas, juste pour discuter et échanger sur nos différentes cultures. Et j'ai même été invité plusieurs fois (bien sûr, j'ai accepté avec joie) à dormir chez l'habitant, une expérience si enrichissante.
J'ai aussi été invité pour l'Idul Fitri dans une famille près de Sumbawa Besar, un moment inoubliable !
Pour Croquignol :
J'ai particulièrement aimé les villages aux alentours de Sumbawa Besar (Lantung, Brang Pelat, Semamung...), où les rencontres avec les locaux ont été nombreuses, faciles, inoubliables.
D'autre part, j'ai découvert des plages sauvages incroyables aux environs de Lakey (absolument personne, pas même un surfeur !) et de Lunyuk.
Pour Karltoffel :
ce qui est différent à Sumbawa par rapport à d'autres régions touristiques d'Indonésie, c'est justement qu'on n'y rencontre que très peu de touristes (quelques surfeurs à Lakey et Maluk-Rantung, sinon, j'étais pratiquement seul partout ailleurs. On m'a même dit que j'étais l'un des premiers à m'être rendu à Lantung et Brang Pelat-près de Sumbawa Besar- et à Lunyuk).
Pour les prix, bonne surprise : entre 75 000 et 100 000 Rp pour l'hébergement en général (souvent basique, mais suffisamment propre), et l'équivalent d'1 ou 2 euros pour un repas dans un warung (le "record" : à Sumbawa Besar, un bakso à 10 000 Rp et un gado gado à 7 000 Rp dans la rue !)
Et oui, il y a de très belles plages à Sumbawa, aussi bien pour les surfeurs que pour le farniente ou le snorkeling (Pulau Moyo par exemple, même si pour moi, le top reste les Togians et Bunaken à Sulawesi).
Pour les guides, je ne peux que recommander Mr Sulhan, de Sumbawa Besar. Même si je n'ai pas fait appel directement à ses services, il m'a accompagné dans nombre de villages charmants, et c'est grâce à lui que j'ai pu séjourner chez l'habitant, dans sa famille. Il parle très bien l'anglais, et peut vous proposer toutes sortes d'excursions. Si vous voulez ses coordonnées (email, n° de téléphone, et même skype-je lui ai créé un compte), je peux vous les communiquer sans problème.
Quant aux transports, sur l'axe principal Poto Tano-Sumbawa Besar-Dompu-Bima, ainsi que de Poto Tano à Rantung, les routes sont en parfait état (la compagnie américaine Newmont qui exploite les mines d'or et de cuivre de la région a fait du bon boulot). Mais c'est plus problématique sur les routes secondaires, même si, à scooter, "ça passe" à peu près...
Et pour la bintang, comme c'était ramadan, elle ne coulait pas à flot dans les rues. Par contre, aucun problème pour en trouver dans les établissements gérés par les occidentaux dans les endroits "touristiques" (Lakey et Maluk-Rantung).
Voilà pour mes impressions sur Sumbawa, qui, pour moi, restera un souvenir merveilleux grâce à toutes les belles rencontres que j'ai pu y faire.
N'hésitez pas si vous envisagez de découvrir une île indonésienne réellement restée (pour l'instant encore) à l'écart du tourisme de masse.
Merci pour ta réponse et ce résumé qui donne envie de retourner dans ce pays aux mille cultures. Je ne suis pas surpris de ta réponse car je ne m'expliquai pas pourquoi des gens si gentils sur Flores ne le seraient pas aussi sur l'ile voisine de Sumbawa. C'est surtout le tourisme massif qui rend les gens aigris. Sumbawa n'étant pas concernée, tu as trouvé une population avide d'échanges, où l’hospitalité est le première richesse. C'est super. Mise à part les plages paradisiaques, comment sont les paysages dans l'intérieur de l'ile. Reste-t-il des villages traditionnels?
Autour de Sumbawa Besar notamment, entre 30 minutes et 1h30 à scooter, on peut découvrir plein de petits villages de moyenne montagne (Batu Dulang, Semamung, Lantung, Brang Pelat --> voir photo), au milieu des rizières, des forêts, avec souvent de petites rivières et des cascades (un peu sèches néanmoins en juillet-août), avec de charmantes maisons en bois construites sur pilotis.
Au début, les habitants sont surpris de voir arriver un touriste (mais les enfants sont souvent les premiers à se précipiter vers vous avec les fameux "Mister", "Bule", "Photo"). Puis, très vite, les visages et les portes s'ouvrent, et il est alors très facile de lier contact (à condition de parler un peu le bahasa). C'est là que j'ai fait mes plus belles rencontres !
Je viens de lire tes impressions sur Sumbawa. Je viens de découvrir à scooter Sumba et Flores qui m'ont enchanté. Je vais me rendre à Sumbawa le mois prochain pour visiter un ami qui vit la bas et pour découvrir l'île.
Où as tu loué ton scooter ? le prix est raisonnable ?
Je vais arriver à l'ouest en provenance de Lombok par bateau.
Je reviendrais vers toi pour discuter de mon itinéraire
Bonjour,
bonne idée que d'aller découvrir Sumbawa.
Moi, j'avais pris mon scooter de Bali, puis ferry jusqu'à Lombok, scooter jusqu'au port puis à nouveau ferry jusqu'à Poto Tano. Sinon, je crois qu'on peut louer des scooters à Sumbawa Besar.
A ta disposition si tu veux d'autres infos
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Hi everyone,
I’m looking for addresses for guesthouses or, even better, houseboats or rafting houses on the River Kwai, between Kanchanaburi and Sangkhlaburi, to spend a few weeks contemplating this beautiful river.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Premaria
Hi there,
we’re currently in Mai Chau and tomorrow we’re hitting the road back to Hanoi to head up toward Bac Ha and Sapa.
We haven’t really had a set plan since we arrived—we’ve already done the Halong Bay on land and by sea.
I’ve got 2 free days before heading to Bac Ha and Sapa.
Any tips?
Thanks, and looking forward to hearing from you.
Hi fellow travelers,
First trip to Vietnam.
We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet.
Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period?
Any tips would be welcome.
Thanks for your replies.
Silly question—backpack or hard-shell suitcase for the Sepilok, Kinabatangan, Tioman, KL trip?
I’m struggling to fit all my son’s and my stuff into the 70L backpack... and I’m thinking a suitcase would be easier, but I’m not sure if it’ll work for getting around.
Hi there,
I didn’t plan to return to Thailand this year, but my health conditions mean it’ll be the best place for me to stay between two trips to India. The tourism setup there is so well-organized that it’s the most "comfortable" country for a short visit. Thailand feels too sanitized for my taste, and there’s too much religion, Buddha, and the King, but it’s still the best option given how my health has been evolving. I’d considered two weeks in ThaTon for hiking, but I got too sick from the burn-offs during my trips to the mountains around Chiang Rai. So I’m not sure where to go this year. Definitely not the sea, touristy spots, or the mountains with burn-offs...
Hello.
In 1996, we crossed Vietnam from Saigon to Hanoi by motorbike—Minsk bikes we bought in Saigon. I haven’t been back since, and it seems like a lot has changed.
- We’re heading to the south (well, the north and center) with the family in July-August (3 people).
- Is the road network more developed now? Back then, there was only National Route 1 from south to north. I’m thinking of renting a car this time (no motorbike with the family—though in ’96, they had a Jawa sidecar for sale, and we hesitated… maybe it’s for the best).
- Is Halong Bay really something to avoid because of overtourism? Even back then, it was pretty crowded. Is there a less touristy alternative?
- We’ll be traveling from Hanoi down to Danang (the only city we didn’t stop in back in ’96). Even though it’s a bit overhyped in a Chinese-tourist kind of way (from what I’ve read), we’re only going for the beach—pure relaxation for 7 days. The beaches are stunning, and I know the South China Sea is warm like coffee.
- Then, we’ll visit Hoi An, where I stopped in ’96. It was already popular with backpackers back then, but no glowing boats or all the touristy fuss!
- After that, Hue, where I have great memories—it’s a beautiful city.
- And also the nature around Ninh Binh, followed by 2-3 days in Hanoi.
That’s the plan. I’d love to hear any tips to avoid mass tourism, and if anyone’s done this before:
- Is it possible to rent a car in Danang and drop it off in Hanoi?
Hey everyone,
I’m over in East Borneo in mid-July.
I’m struggling to wrap up the end of my itinerary, even though it’s pretty straightforward (long but simple).
Last year, we did Malaysia (KL and the mainland + around Kuching).
Day 1 – Arrive in Kota Kinabalu early, stroll around town and hit the must-sees.
Day 2 – Excursion to Tunku Abdul Rahman Park, snorkeling at 3 islands.
Day 3 – Hike around Mount Kinabalu without summiting (450 per person, no way).
Day 4 – Poring Hot Springs + evening flight to Sandakan.
Day 5-6-7 – Kinabatangan River (still looking for the right guide).
Day 8 – Sepilok for the orangutans, the Sun Bear Centre, and Rainforest Discovery Centre.
Day 9 – Selingan, turtle island.
Day 10 – Head to Semporna.
Day 11-12-13-14 – Sipadan, Mabul, Kapalai.
Day 15 – Bohey Dulang.
Day 16 to Day 25: I’M STUCK.
I looked into Danum Valley, but for 3 days/2 nights, they’re quoting 650 € per person—come on, that’s ridiculous.
I checked out a detour into Indonesia (still East Borneo), but I’m having trouble deciding what would be amazing.
I read about Sangalaki + Kakaban (2 islands, 1 base) / Mahakam Delta - Kutai (orangutans and river) / Sungai Boh (Dayak Kayan) – jungle & culture.
But honestly, I’m struggling to finalize this itinerary.
If we venture that way, we’d head back to KK from Balikpapan.
For a 4-month stay in Egypt, I had ENORMOUS problems. The regulations are very bureaucratic and extremely nitpicky there. For a 4-month stay in the Philippines, I was wondering if the procedures are just as complicated? I’m bringing my cell phone with an eSIM. Should I choose a plan from Canada for use in the Philippines, or should I get a plan only once I arrive? After 30 days, do I renew with the Canadian provider I chose before leaving, or do I switch to a local company? Do I need to register my phone with the authorities in the Philippines? (That was the case in Egypt.) For the 3rd and 4th months, will it be just as simple—renewing with a Canadian or local provider—or should I expect problems?
Hello,
I’ll be in Malaysia with my wife, mainly in Langkawi and Penang for Christmas and New Year’s at the end of 2026.
If you’ve had the experience—and since I’ve read (though it’s not very clear) that these two islands get quite crowded during this period—would you recommend booking accommodation well in advance, or is it easy to find something on the spot?
Hotels or Airbnb?
Do you have any great tips for accommodation or any practical info to share?
We’ll be staying 5 to 7 days on each island.
Thanks in advance for your replies
Hi there. To make the most of Lake Toba, is it better to find accommodation on the lake’s shores (which one?) or on Samosir Island? Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
We’re heading to Vietnam as a family on July 8th for a little over 3 weeks (north and center). We’ve only booked the first 3 nights in Hanoi, and nothing else after that. We like to decide things on the spot and go with the flow, without rushing everywhere. But I’m still a bit unsure: when heading down to the center (Hue), is it better to book the overnight trains in advance? We don’t want to take any flights while we’re there—just use the overnight train for the long trips. But I’m worried we won’t get seats if we buy the tickets on the spot, say, 2 days before. What do the experts here think? And which website can we use to book the tickets? Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hi everyone!
I’m heading back to Thailand in July 2026 with a stopover in Cambodia to visit the Angkor site.
After Angkor, I’ve booked a stay on Ko Chang island. Does anyone know if there are direct transport options from Cambodia to Ko Chang without having to go back through Bangkok? That would be amazing!!
I think there are, but I’d need more details!!
I went to Thailand in February 2025 and don’t remember having to apply for a visa—is that still the case now? And for Cambodia too?
Thanks so much!!!
Laurence from Bayonne
I’d love to get some feedback on our itinerary—it’s probably pretty basic! This is our second trip to Asia and our first to Indonesia. We have three kids aged 20, 18, and 12. We land in Jakarta at 4 PM, spend 3 nights/2 days there, then take the train to Yogyakarta for 3 nights/2 days, followed by the train to Surabaya for 2 nights/1 day, then the train to Bromo for 1 day/1 night, a private driver to Ijen for 2 nights/2 days, then on to Bali (Ubud) for 4 nights/3 days, followed by Gili Air for 3 nights/2 days, Senggigi (Lombok) for 2 nights, and finally 5 nights in Kuta. I’m considering cutting the 2 nights in Senggigi to just keep Kuta and extend it to 7 nights. In Lombok, I’m not sure how to get around since I’m not comfortable with scooters... Your thoughts on all of this, and any advice, are more than welcome—don’t hesitate!
For those wondering why cities like Jakarta and Surabaya: we don’t often get the chance to visit big Asian cities, so we wanted to include that discovery in our trip. The trains between Jakarta and Yogyakarta, Surabaya and Probolinggo are booked. The return flight from Lombok to Jakarta is also set. Accommodations are booked but flexible (same for the trains).
Hi,
After our trip to China, we want to spend a week in the Philippines for some beach time and snorkeling.
We're looking for the best spot to settle in—nice beaches, great marine life, and short transfer times.
Thanks for your suggestions!
Does anyone know of a private transfer or taxi company that organizes transfers from the Sukhothai area to Chiang Mai?
Our routes are Sukhothai-Lampang, Lampang-Chom Thong, and Chom Thong-Chiang Mai.
My searches on Google Maps, 12Go, and others haven’t turned up much...
For our Bangkok-Sukhothai trips, I use a company I’ve already tried, but they don’t have a fleet available from Sukhothai and have to go through third-party companies—which, understandably, take their commission. This nearly doubles the prices...
There are four of us, and we’re not traveling light, so a minibus isn’t an option. ;-)
Hello,
While traveling in Thailand, I’m looking for a Buddhist kumlai reed bracelet.
Does anyone know where I can find one?
In Bangkok, I visited a few temples but didn’t see any in the nearby shops.
If you have any ideas, I’d love to hear them! Have a great day! :-)
My trip’s coming up, and I’m having a bit of trouble with three bus/minivan routes. Usually, I find everything at this time of year, but this time—yikes!
Sandakan → Sepilok:
No app for this one—you just hop on bus #14 at the local terminal (pay cash on board). But where do I catch it, and where’s the stop??
Sandakan → Semporna:
From what I’ve heard, it’s the Sida Express company (great name, right? 😄).
Can’t book online, but apparently, you *have* to because there’s only one bus at 8 AM.
Where do I board, and where does it drop me off?
Semporna → Tawau:
Found this via AI—is it legit?
No online booking, as far as I can tell.
Minivans leave from a stop in the Jalan Hospital area, near the Milimewa supermarket, supposedly????
And when you arrive, does it drop you at **Sabindo Square** in Tawau?????
Hi there,
we’ll be in Mai Chau in June and we’re thinking of heading to Sapa, but first spending a few days in Bac Ha to do some hiking and explore the area.
Is this a good idea for those who’ve been there?
How do you get there?
Thanks for your feedback.
Looking forward to hearing from you.
Cédric.
Hi everyone. As I’m planning my trip for next winter, I’m looking for hotel suggestions in Camotes, Bantayan, Malapascua, Bohol, and Siquijor. The ones I had in mind seem to be fully booked (unless it’s too early?). For those familiar with the area, is it easy to find accommodations on the spot in January/February? I’m specifically looking for hotels with a pool, beachfront, air conditioning, and easy scooter rental nearby. Thanks for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning an itinerary and would love some feedback on whether it’s doable and if the number of days per destination is enough—or too much. I was also debating whether to add an extra night on an island or spend an extra night in Kampot to visit Kep or Battambang.
March 23: Arrival in Phnom Penh in the morning
March 24: Phnom Penh
March 25: Phnom Penh
March 26: Depart for Kampot
March 27: Kampot
March 28: Depart for Battambang
March 29: Battambang
March 30: Tonlé SAP to Siem Reap
March 31: Siem Reap
April 1: Siem Reap
April 2: Siem Reap
April 3: Siem Reap
April 4: Siem Reap
April 5: Departure
Hi there,
Yesterday in the Thailand section, 100% of the new threads were just about beach destinations 😕...
So here’s the counterattack in the form of this photo thread, dedicated solely to the countryside: the locals, their livestock, fields, farms, rice paddies, small rivers, and agricultural machinery. If you’ve got any pictures that fit these categories, feel free to add them!
Comments welcome.
For each photo, I’ll (or you can) indicate the area where it was taken.
Hope you're all doing well! It's been a while since I last traveled, but I'm finally heading out again soon!
For those familiar with SOUTHEAST ASIA, I'm planning to leave in mid-June (with the trip ending at the latest in November), and I don’t have a precise idea of exact places or itineraries yet. The thing is, this period is usually the rainy season...
Any advice? I was thinking of Malaysia or Indonesia, like Sulawesi, for example (all countries and islands in Southeast Asia interest me except Bali).
Any recommendations? I’m doing my research online, but if anyone here has the time and knowledge, I’d love to hear from you.
My partner and I are planning a trip to Indonesia in September-October 2026. It’ll be our first time in Asia, and we’re thinking of hitting the classic spots in East Java and Bali, then wrapping up with a cruise around Komodo for some snorkeling/diving. Here’s a rough draft of our itinerary—I’m wondering if it’s doable.
20/09: Flight from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, arrive around noon, afternoon/evening and overnight in Yogyakarta.
21/09: Borobudur
22/09: Prambanan
23/09: Travel to Bromo (Cemoro Lawang)
24/09: Bromo
25/09: Kawa Ijen
26/09: Travel to Bali, overnight in Pemuteran
27/09: Excursion to Pulau Melujan, overnight in Pemuteran
28/09: Travel to Munduk, overnight in Munduk
29/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk
30/09: Explore Munduk and surroundings, overnight in Munduk
01/10: Route to Ubud (via Pura Ulu Danau Bratan, Jatiluwih?), overnight in Ubud
02/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud
03/10: Explore Ubud and surroundings, overnight in Ubud
04/10: Travel to Denpasar, flight to Labuan Bajo, overnight in Labuan Bajo
05/10: Komodo cruise
06/10: Komodo cruise
07/10: Komodo cruise, flight to Denpasar in the late afternoon/evening or overnight in Labuan Bajo.
08/10: Flight to Denpasar (if not taken the day before), afternoon in Jimbaran, overnight near Denpasar
09/10: 10:00 AM flight Denpasar - SIN, overnight in Singapore
10/10: Flight SIN-YQB
Hi everyone,
My girlfriend and I booked our tickets with Saudia Airlines for a trip to Thailand this summer, from July 5th to August 3rd. Given the geopolitical situation in the Middle East, we’re keeping a close eye on the news.
I was wondering if anyone here is in the same situation as us?
• Have you heard anything about possible mass cancellations or if the airline is still maintaining its routes to Asia?
• Are there any travelers who’ve recently returned who could tell us if air corridors have been changed (longer flight times)?
The idea is to know what to expect so we can prepare as best as possible. Thanks for your replies! !
Thanks for all your contributions on the forum—they’ve really helped me plan my trip. There are four of us friends heading to Sulawesi for 20 days. Based on all your advice, I’ve put together the following itinerary:
July 30: Makassar – sightseeing
July 31: Makassar – sightseeing + overnight bus to Rantepao
August 1–7: Tana Toraja with a guide
August 7: Tana Toraja to Tentena + visit Tentena
August 8: Early departure with a private driver to Ampana, then ferry to the Togian Islands
August 9–15: Togian Islands (2 different resorts)
August 15: Depart Togian Islands for Luwuk
August 16: Flight Luwuk to Makassar
August 17: Rammang Rammang
August 18: Stroll in Makassar, then return home
Overall, what do you think?
I also have a question about the connection between Tentena and the Togian Islands: Is it doable to leave early in the morning as planned and still be sure not to miss the ferry?
Hi everyone,
I’m currently working on a 30-day itinerary for May/June 2027.
10 days in eastern Java (Malang, Bromo, waterfalls, Meru Beriti Park, Banyuwangi, and Ijen), a short transit in Ubud for a few days, then Flores before heading back to Jakarta.
We’ll spend 15 days in Flores (the classic route: Moni, Bajawa, Riung, Ruteng, ending in Labuan Bajo).
I’d love some firsthand feedback on flights to Maumere or Ende from Bali Denpasar. I know there are no direct routes and that you have to connect through Labuan Bajo or Timor (I think), which isn’t an issue in itself.
But I’ve read here and there that flights to these destinations can be delayed—or worse, canceled—and that it’s better to fly in and out of Labuan Bajo, which isn’t exactly ideal...
Thanks for any tips or experiences you can share!
