Il y a quelques semaines je vous posais des questions, maintenant je raconte mon voyage !
Jour 1 et 2 : au Balboa Inn, nouveau bed and breakfast situé dans la zone du canal. Le personnel est sympathique, c'est propre et le déjeuner est bon. Dans un quartier résidentiel mais il y a tout de même des restos et commerces autour.
Visite de casco viejo : sous un soleil de plomb on a marché sur la promenade au bord de la mer avec la vue sur les gratte-ciels et les nombreux bateaux. Joli quartier, assez sécuritaire si on s'en tient a la zone touristique. De toute façon il y a beaucoup de polices et ceux-ci vous évitent de vous rendre dans les quartiers chauds.
Armador causeway : 3 iles reliées par une promenade. Pas mal touristique et bourgeois. Il y a un petit centre commercial à l'ile flamenco surtout avec une boutique hors taxe et des boutiques de souvenirs. Le mail sur 2 étages était placardé, on a jamais su pourquoi ... Bref beaucoup de boutiques et restos et peu de charmes. On a manqué de temps pour aller a l'aquarium du Smithsonian ... parce qu'on est allé au
Allbrook Mall : le rêve de quiconque doit magaziner :) . Des dizaines et dizaines de boutiques de toutes sortes. Des plus luxueuses, en passant par les grandes marques et les boutiques à rabais.
Jour 3-7 : Vol pour Bocas del Toro au Bluff Beach Retreat sur l'ile de Colon. Une grande maison isolée et luxueuse, entre la plage et la jungle. On a adoré l'emplacement, la plage déserte, les animaux ( les singes hurleurs sont incroyables) et le bruit de la mer. Le concept est un peu comme le Tesoro Escondido, il viennent nous chercher a l'aéroport ( la route est tellement mauvaise vers Bluff Beach, les taxis ne s'y rendent pas ou à prix surréels), on fait les courses et on cuisine soi-même sur place. C'était en fait presque trop luxueux pour nos besoin ... eau chaude, frigo et congélateur, lecteur Dvd, internet sans-fil. Cependant tout fonctionne à l'énergie solaire et avec de l'eau de pluie. Le propriétaire n'était pas sur place et nos hotes était corrects sans plus. À la playa Bluff, la mer etait trop forte pour se baigner mais nous pouvions quand meme jouer dans les vagues. Nous nous sommes rendus à un lagon (1h30 de marche, 1$ de passage aux indigènes) qui etait fantastique pour la baignade. Sommes aussi allés en ville et avons pris un tour de bateau pour la journée. Au programme : dauphins sauvages, snorkeling a coral keys et baignade à red frog beach. Bémol : arrêt-repas relativement dispendieux ... mais puisqu'on a pas le choix du resto ...
Jour 8-9 : Retour à Panama city à La Estancia sur Acon Hill. Ne prenez jamais au grand jamais la chambre 4 à moins de vouloir vous réveiller très très tot .... elle est collée sur la salle à déjeuner et les murs sont en carton... Ils accrochent des bananes le matins ... ca attire toute sorte d'animaux. Singes, oppussums, oiseaux de toutes sortes. La colline est superbe à marcher. On y a vu plusieurs toucans et des agoutis.
Visite du Parque Metropolitano : La vue est super en haut de la Titi trail. La faune est abondante et c'est un belle mais courte randonnée.
Visite des écluses Miraflores : y aller soit le matin ou en fin d'après-midi pour les gros bateaux. Assez impressionnant ...
Jour 10-11: Taboga Island malgré les mauvais commentaires ... on a beaucoup aimé! Avons passé 2 nuits au Cerrito tropical. L'ile sent vraiment les fleurs! La chambre elle sentait le moisi. Les gros coussins, le couvre-lit et le rideau de douche sentaient tellement le moisi ... une chance qu'il y avait une commode avec des tiroirs. Le reste était bien, surtout les repas par Senor Aristides. Probablement les meilleurs de tout notre voyage. On a aimé la rusticité du village, l'église qui est la 2e plus ancienne en Amérique. On ne s'est pas baignés par contre. On a préféré faire de la radonnée et aller observer les iguanes.
Jour 12 : Retour à Panama City et retour à la maison!
On a trouvé les gens sympatiques, ne nous sommes pas trop fait arnaquer par les chauffeurs de taxis, avons eu du beau temps ( 2 jours de pluie a lire dans des hamacs :P ).
Nous avons été décus de ne pas parler espagnol par contre. Peu de communication avec les locaux et on se sentait vraiment un peu débiles à ne pas être capable de commander ce qu'on voulait au resto.
Oubliez le Lonely Planet sur le Panama. C'est incomplet et vraiment pas à jour. Dans la bibliothèque d'une auberge on a découvert le Moon Handbook sur le Panama qui était vraiment vraiment mieux fait et récent.
Ton logement à Bocas semble en effet très luxueux !!
Le Tesoro Escodido est beaucoup plus rustique, apparemment ! (pas de tv ou dvd ) 😉
Au niveau du prix, je pense que ça doit être plus cher ? non ?
Il est situé où ? Le long de Playa Bluff ? Côté mer ?
Je te demande tout ça, car on a bien l'intention de retourné à Bocas !! Sûrement au Tesoro, mais on se renseigne quand même ! 😎
Nous sommes allés aussi à la "piscine", superbe endroit très isolé !
Pour le Lonely Planet, tout à fait d'accord, il est totalement "périmé", la plupart des restos où nous avons voulu aller n'existaient plus !! Remplacés par des chantiers de construction !
Il y a le Petit Futé qui vient juste de sortir, il doit être plus à jour ! (j'espère !)
SOFTIE
BONJOUR
ICI PARIS FRANCE
NOUS AVONS ETE TRES IMPRESSIONE PAR TON RECIT
TRES HEUREUX D APPRENDRE QUE TU AS PASSE DE TRES BELLES VACANCES
ET TE REMERCIONS DE TON RECIT
NOUS AVONS L INTENTION DE FAIRE LE MEME VOYAGE EN FEVRIER
MAIS PREMIERE QUESTION A TU FAIT CE VOYAGE VIA UN TO OU PAR TES PROPRES MOYENS
NOUS ON ARRIVE DE PARIS
PARIS MIAMI PANAMA DEBUT FEVRIER
A PANAMA CITY ON VA A L HOTEL
LEQUEL PREND ON ?
NOUS VISITONS DEUX JOURS LE CANAL ET LA VILLE
ENSUITE ON PASSE TROIS JOURS A L HOTEL GAMBOA
ENSUITE NOUS REVENONS A PANAMA CITY RE HOTEL
ET VISITE DE QUOI LE TRAIN ?
NOUS SOUHAITONS ENSUITE NOUS REPOSER DANS LES ILES
MAIS LESQUELS
ILES DE SAN BLASS
LE DEPART EST A QUELLE HEURE
QUELLE COMPAGNIE
QUEL PRIX
OU RESERVE T ON
ET QUEL HOTEL PRENDRE A SAN BLASS
OU ET COMMENT LE RESERVER
MEME CHOSE POUR LES AUTRES ILES
MAIS EST T IL UTILE DE FAIRE LES TROIS
ILES PERLAS ET BOCAS DEL TORO
NOUS AIMONS LA MER LA PLAGE LA ECHE LE SNORKLING LE CALME LES GENS
MERCI E NOUS DONNER TES REPONSES ET TON AVIS
AU FAIT TON VOYAGE T A COUTE COMBIEN ?
A TRES BIENTOT
BIEN AMICALEMENT
CLAUDINE EGLANTINE JEAN CLAUDE ET LUC
Au bluff beach retreat nous avons payé 50$ dollars chacun pour une chambre avec lit double (saison basse). Pour se renseigner, envoyer un email au propriétaire ( anglophone). C'est situé a 30 secondes de la plage Bluff. On traverse la rue et on a les pieds dans le sable!
J'avais mis des hyperliens dans mon premier message mais je viens de me rendre compte qu'on y voit rien du tout :P
http://www.bluffbeachretreat.com/
Nous avons planifié notre voyage nous-mêmes. Cependant nous étions un peu dernière minute et avons perdu du temps a trouver des hotels ou a décider ce que nous ferions dans la journée ... Je vous conseille fortement de réserver vos hotels à l'avance.
Je ne peux pas vraiment vous conseiller quel hotel choisir, il y a beaucoup de choix et les prix sont très variés. Certains offrent le transport de l'aéroport moyennant des frais, ce qui peut éviter de vous faire charger des prix excessifs par les chauffeurs de taxis. Il n'y a pas de compteurs dans les taxis, il demandent bien le prix qu'ils veulent ... mais on a pas vraiment eu de problèmes. En revenant, il nous en a couté 20$ pour se rendre de la zone du canal à l'aéroport.
Je n'ai pas visité la ville comme tel mais on m'a parlé d'un hotel qui a de très bons reviews sur trip advisor et que d'autres hotels nous ont conseillé : l'hotel Milan. Il faut réserver a l'avance, ils sont toujours pleins ... http://www.republicofpanama.net/Hotels/Hotel_Milan/Hotel_Milan/
Pour la zone du canal, je ne puis que vous recommander le Balboa Inn et La Estancia. Le Balboa Inn est près d'une centre d'artisanat, Niko's cafe, pub irlandais et de petites épiceries. La Estancia est sur Acon Hill, on doit y aller en taxi et aucun resto près mais ils ont une liste de restos qui font la livraison. La randonnée sur la montagne est très agréable.
http://www.bedandbreakfastpanama.com/ ( la estancia)
http://www.thebalboainn.com/
Il y a 2 compagnies qui offrent des vols nationaux : Air panama et Aéroperlas. Comme nous ne parlons pas espagnol, la réservation sur le site de Air panama était difficile. Sur le site de Aeroperlas c'était plus facile. Autour de 120$ pour San Blas, 180$ pour Bocas et 90$ pour Las perlas, round trip ( de mémoire).
https://www.flyairpanama.com/http://www.aeroperlas.com/
Je ne me suis pas rendu à San Blas mais des gens que nous avons rencontrés nous ont dit que c'était une belle expérience.
Voici quelques liens de lodges à San blas que j'avais trouvé en fesant mes recherches ( aucune idée de la qualité ... des recherches sur le net pourraient être utiles à ce sujet ... )
http://kuna-niskua.comhttp://www.yandupisland.com/
J'ai bien aimé l'ile de Colon à Bocas. La ville bouge beaucoup et si on s'éloigne un peu c'est très calme. Plusieurs choses à faire à cet endroit. Et il y a plusieurs autres iles tout près.
On avait envie de Las perlas, il semblerait que les pages sont très belles. Cependant ça a l'air plus cher, plusieurs vedette y ont des maisons!
Je ne sais pas trop combien mon voyage a couté ... je dirais environ 1500$ chacuns incluant les billets d'avion régionaux, les hotels, activités et la nourriture.
J'ai bien hâte de lire vous récits de voyage aussi!
NOTRE VOYAGE AU PANAMA AVANCE ET SE PREPARE............DEPART PREVU 04/02 AVEC KLM
DES QUESTIONS
SI TES SOUVENIRS NE SONT PAS TROP EMBUES
NOUS SERONS SANS VOITURE
COMMENT FAIT ON POUR VISITER COLON PORTOBELLO ECLUSES DE GATUN
TAXI/EXCURSION / TRAIN ?????
UNE JOURNEE ENTIERE EST CE SUFFISANT ???
PEUT ALLER JUSQU A EL PROVENIR POUR ALLER SUR ISLA GRANDE ???
COMMENT FAIT ON POUR ALLER SUR L ILE DE TOBAGO
UNE JOURNEE EST CE SUFFISANT ???
QUE FAIRE SUR L ILE PROMENADE BAIGNADE ????
D AUTRE PART NOUS FERONS UNE EXCURSION VERS GAMBOAS
QU EN PENSES TU ??
UNE JOURNEE ??
Je peux te répondre seulement au sujet de Taboga puisque je ne me suis pas rendue aux autres endroits.
Il y a un ferry qui part de l'armador causeway vers Taboga et ça coute 10$. En haute saison il est prudent de planifier son voyage et d'acheter le billet de retour en meme temps que l'aller parce que le Ferry est parfois complet. On passe tout près d'une multitude d'énormes bateaux c'est assez impressionnant! Selon mon souvenir un aller-retour est environs 12$
Il y a des plages publiques, de petits restos pas très gastronomiques ( Mr Aristidès qui s'occupe du Cerrito Tropical fait de très bons repas) et de la randonnée à faire. Le village sent les fleurs c'est chouette. Sinon ne pas vous attendre au paradis sur terre. C'est local, tropical mais pas le paradis. C'est cependant une belle balade et tout près de Panama city.
Pour les autres destinations, il y a effectivement un train qui se rend à Colon mais je n'y ai pas été. J'ai vu les écluses de Miraflorès ( les plus impressionnantes semble-t-il) et le musée du canal. Après avoir vu passer 2 Panamax avec des commentateurs qui hurlent en espagnol on en a eu assez ...
Anecdote : la journée où j'ai visité les écluses Miraflorès, un employé prenait sa retraite de 30 ans de services. Les 2 Panamax ont fait crier leurs sirènes ... tout vibrait, c'était quelque chose à vivre.
Bonne chance pour les autres infos, peut-etre qu'une recherche sur le forum serait fructueuse. Sinon un bon guide tel que le moon handbook du Panama si vous lisez l'anglais. Le Lonely planet n'est plus à jour du tout du tout!
EH BEN VOILA VOILA
NOUS ARRIVERONS A PANAMA LE 05 FEVRIER
LE 05 AU SOIR JE PENSERAI A TOI EN DEGUSTANT UN BON COKTAIL ET EN FUMANT UN BON CIGARE EN ECOUTANT
MAIS AU FAIT DIS MOI A PANAMA
IL Y A LA MER
ALORS ON SE BAIGNE OU ?
LES COKTAILS LOCAUX C EST QUOI ?
LE MATIN NOUS PARTONS SUR COLON
COMMENT FAIT ON POUR PRENDRE LE TRAIN ?
EST CE FACILE ?
ET POUR REJOINDRE PORTOBELLO LA VILLE DE PIRATE MORGAN
EN BUS EN TAXI ???
LE SUR LENDEMAIN NOUS PENSONS FAIRE UN PARC OU UNE VISITE AU INDIEN EMBERAS
EST IL FACILE D ACHETER DES EXCURSIONS SUR PLACE ?
CHEZ QUI ?
ET VEUX TU QUE JE FASSE QUELQUE CHOSE LA BAS POUR TOI
PRENDRE UNE PHOTO ?
JETER UNE BOUTEILLE A LA MER ?
DIRE BONJOUR A QUELQU UN ?
A BIENTOT
ET MERCI POUR TOUTES TES INFORMATIONS
BONDAROY
Je suis passé sur voyageforum pour lire ton récit de voyage au Panama, effectivement il semble que cela a été une belle expérience, surtout compte tenu de "l'improvisation".
Tu t'es trés bien débrouillée me semble-t-il au niveau organisation.
Au Causeway, c'est évidemment trés touristique, trop, il n'y a rien á voir, mais c'est sur que tu aurais mieux fait de visiter le Smithsonian.
Albrook Mall, sans commentaire, mais qu'est ce que vous avez toutes les Québecoises á vouloir magasiner lá ? vous allez me faire croire qu'il n'y a pas mieux au Québec.
Sinon, si vous y tenez, il y a plus grand, Los Pueblos, sur la route de l'aéroport, est le plus important centre commercial d'amérique centrale.
J'espére aussi que vous avez pris le temps de visiter le musée du Canal sur la place catedral, il en vaut la peine.
A Bocas, je ne connais pas le Bluff Beach Retreat, mais effectivement c'est plus cher que d'autres, mais surtout le chemin pour aller a Bluff est tellement horrible, et une fois la bas on est bloqué car aucun taxi n'y passe.
Mais si on ne veut pas etre isolé, il y a quelques hotels sympas en ville et á des prix bien plus abordables.
Je ne sais pas si vous avez poussé la ballade en mer jusqu'a l'ile de Zapatilla, c'est trés joli, mais ne pas faire comme beaucoup qui restent sur la plage, il faut aller á l'intérieur, il y a un chemin tracé, mais bien une heure de marche.
Parc Metropolitain, comment une courte randonnée ? il y a quatre chemins, il y en a bien pour deux heures.
Ecluses de Miraflores, le matin entre 9 et 10 heures (aprés il n'y a généralement plus de bateaux jusqu'a 14 heures), elles ferment au public á 16H30.
Bien sur je ne recommande pas Taboga, car en dehors de la traversée en bateau qui permet quelquefois d'étre accompagné par des dauphins, et le paysage de l'ile ..... le reste (les services) laisse á désirer.
Pour le guide, pas moi .... le livre .... au Canada vous avez Ulysse qui est assez bien fait, sinon je ne sais pas si vous avez aussi Le Petit Futé, des touristes francais me l'ont laissé derniérement, il est trés bien, en le lisant j'ai eu l'impression que je l'avais écrit, c'est dire ..... je me demande si parmi les nombreux touristes que j'accompagne dans le pays, .... il n'y avait pas des pirates !
La prochaine fois que vous venez contactez moi á l'avance et je vous organise un dépaysement total, un jour et une nuit dans un village indigéne Embera de la riviére Chagres, si vous n'avez pas peur d'etre "coupé du monde", cela vaut l'expérience.
Bonjour chez vous,
serge
Pour ce qui est du Smithsonian et du musée du canal (dans casco viejo ???) j'avais la volonté de visiter. J'ai trouvé que ces points d'intérêt n'étaient pas bien indiqués. Je suis passé plusieurs fois devant l'institut du Smithsonian et n'ai jamais vu invitant les gens à visiter un aquarium. Mais je n'ai pas cherché plus qu'il faut non plus.
Pour le Albrook Mall, ... bien dans la ville de Québec on n'a rien d'aussi bien comme mail commercial. En fait j'avais besoin de sandales (impossible d'en trouver ici hors-saison).
Parc Metropolitaino, bien j'imagine que j'avais des attentes extraordinaires de randonnée. Cependant c'est la vue en haut de la titi trail qui était extraordinaire ...
Et vraiment pour le guide de voyage, pour ceux qui lisent l'anglais, je suggère +++ le moon handbook.
En effet ça m'interresse les Emberas. Je vous contacte si je retourne au Panama!
bonsoir serge !!
nous partons au panam le 21/02 et je suis interessée (avec mon ami) pour aller nous dépayser 2 jorus village indigéne Embera de la riviére Chagres !!
comment pouvons nous nous oragniser ? que fais tu sur place ? tu es guide ?
bref ..;un petit topo serait super !!
je te donne mon adresse mail guillemette_48@hotmail.com pour qu'on puisse voir ça ensemble.
merci !
ohé ! salut... moi aussi je serai au Costa Rica du 27 mars au 14 avril et avec 2 amis de san Jose et leur gde fille, nous serons 5 à vouloir passer qqs jours(5 à 10 ) au Panama; que ns conseilles-tu ? nous n'aimons guère les circuits tout maché et apprécions les contacts et dépaysements..mais ne voulons pas rater pour autant les sites particuliers . ns parlons espagnol...Partirons-nous de san Jose en voiture ou vaut il mieux faire autrement..?merci déjà...
tonytruand
il y a ceux qui voient les choses telles qu'elles sont et qui se demandent pourquoi; moi je les vois telles qu'elles pourraient être et je me dis pourquoi pas ?( 2005 )
bonjours
attention tu arrive en pleine période du carnaval du 20 au 24/2
les Panaméens sont très friants de cette fête et pendant 4 jours pratiquement tout s'arrête
il faut être également prudent pendant ces dates il y a plus de vol
BONJOUR SOFTIE
VOILA NOUS SOMMES REVENUS
PANAMA OUI MAIS ATTENTION CHAUD DEVANT
LE PREMIER JOUR A L ARRIVEE DU VOL KLM NOUS PARTONS DINER AU BOUT DU CAUSEWAY
BEAUCOUP DE RESTAURANTS
JEUNES SYMPAS PAS TROP CHERS BRANCHES
LE SECOND JOUR DEPART POUR LES ECLUSES MIRAFLORES
INCONTOURNABLE FACILE D ACCES DEPUIS PTY
AU RETOUR NOUS PASSONS L APRES MIDI AU METROPOLITAN PARC
OISEAUX PARESSEUX PAPILLONS // FLORE TRES INTERESSANTE
VUE IMPRENABLE SUR PTY VERS 16H00 POUR PRENDRE UNE PHOTO INOUBLIABLE
POUR CETTE JOURNEE NOUS AVONS LOUE UN TAXI POUR LA JOURNEE 30 US
TROISIEME JOUR VISITE DE LA VIEILLE VILLE
SUPERBE
NE PAS REMONTER VERS SANTA ANNA
OU ALORS TOUT NU
A PARTIR DE LA 14EMME RUE COTE NORD C EST TROP DANGEREUX
QUATRIEME JOUR DEPART SAN BLASS A 06H00
ARRIVE A L AERODROME CARLI A 06H25
L ENDROIT ESTAFFREUX ET SALE
L IMPRESSION EST MAUVAISE
IL FAUT ALLER A PIED 200 METRES DANS UN SENTIER PEU AGREABLE POUR TROUVER L EMBARQUADERE
LES BATEAUX ...........DES PIROGUES
LA MOTORISATION ............15/20 CHEVAUX
C EST JUSTE
SI LA MERE EST FORMEE C EST UNE GRANDE AVENTURE QUI DURE PLUS D UNE HEURE VAGUES EMBRUNS ETC....
MAIS LES KUNAS SONT DE GRANDS MARINS ET CONNAISSENT BIEN LEUR MER
A L ARRIVEE DANS L ILE C EST SIMPLE VOIRE SPARTIATE
LES KUNAS SONT GENTILS DISPONIBLES
LES ILES SONT MAGIQUES
PECHE MER BAIGNADE SNORKLING ........VOUS... VOUS ET VOUS A PERTE DE VUE
HUITIEME JOUR RETOUR VERS PANAMA
LEVE 4 HEURES ON PREND LA PIROGUE EN PLEINE NUIT LA MER SE FORME ON EVITE UN GRAIN DE JUSTESSE
L AVION ARRIVE ON DECOLLE DANS LE VENT ON ARRIVE A L HOTEL A 08H00 POUR PRENDRE UNE BONNE DOUCHE ET ON Y VOIT ENFIN CLAIR
NEUVIEME JOUR VISITE DE PTY AVENUE CENTRALE VIA ESPANA VIA CUBA VIA BRAZIL VIA URUGUAY
LE NEUVIEME JOUR DEPART POUR CONTADORA EN BATEAU
1H15 A FOND
HORS BORD MOTORISE AVEC 3 FOIS 250 CHEVAUX
ARRIVE A CONTADORA SUR LA PLAGE
ATTENTION DE NE PAS TOMBER DANS L EAU A L ARRIVEE
HOTEL PUNTA GALEON
TOUT EST CALME LES OISEAUX CHANTENT
IL Y A TROIS RESTAURANTS SUR L ILE
DES PROMENADES A PIED
DES PROMENADES EN BATEAUX
PECHE SNORKLING BAIGNADE
LA PISTE EST EN REFECTION
NOUS REPARTONS EN BATEAU LA MER EST FORMEE ENCORE
LE HORS BORD SURFE SUR DE GROSSES VAGUES
CA COGNE CA CRAQUENT DE PARTOUT
UN PEU FOU CES PANAMEENS
ILS SONT QUAND MEME TRES GENTILS
LE DERNIER JOUR NOUS ALLONS SUR PANAMA LA VIEJA / LES RUINES
LA VILLE INITIALE
L ANCIENNE VILLE PRISE ET DETRUITE PAR HENRY MORGAN AU XVII EME
PUIS RETOUR A PARIS VIA AMSTERDAM
NE PAS PRENDRE DE BOUTEILLES DE RON A PANAMA AIRPORT
ELLES NE PASSERONS PAS A AMSTERDAM POUR LA CORRESPONDANCE
A BIENTOT
BONDAROY
Bonjour,
j'aimerais bien que tu me communiques plus de détails sur ton voyage, notamment des adresses de contacts, pour San Blas, quelle ile ? qui as-tu contacté pour y aller ? pour Contadora, quel est le contact pour le bateau.
Merci,
serge
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I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it...
Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)?
According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later).
Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap.
It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!"
The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this!
Philippe
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips.
I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize.
We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days.
So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides?
Thanks in advance for your valuable advice.
Marilyne
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22.
We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short.
So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day
- Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán
- Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover:
Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22.
Actually, I have a few questions:
Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough?
We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it.
Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market.
We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day?
We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees.
We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive.
Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost.
Thanks so much for your help!
Annick
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary:
Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua
Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua
Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel
Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel
Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ??
Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores
Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores
Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores
Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough.
Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day?
I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times:
- How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please?
I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕.
Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus?
Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU
PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t.
No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto
- The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul
- The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán
- Antigua, very touristy but beautiful
- Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy).
So, we’re leaning toward something like this:
- Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city)
- Puebla: 3 days
- Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?)
- Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours)
- Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala.
Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua
- Atitlán
- Lanquín
- Río Dulce
- El Remate – Flores
- Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín
- Lanquín – Río Dulce
- Río Dulce – El Remate
- Flores – Guatemala City
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are:
- Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier?
- Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things:
- **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island?
- **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend?
- **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car.
Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres.
Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour.
Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum.
Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view).
Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera.
End the day at Playa Paraíso.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal.
Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal.
Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen.
Evening on 5th Avenue.
Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino).
Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min).
Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos.
Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport.
Return rental car. Return flight.
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among:
- Playa del Carmen
- Cozumel
- Holbox
- Valladolid
- Tulum
- Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
A fantastic trip, dominated by the Altiplano, volcanoes, and especially the Mayan people!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua
I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over.
In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans.
Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy!
Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall.
The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different.
We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
I’ve just got two tickets for my partner and me to spend 18 days starting from Oaxaca.
We arrive on the morning of 10/27 and leave on the afternoon of 11/13.
I’ve already booked a lodge for 7 nights about 20 km from Oaxaca.
The idea is to be nearby, especially for Día de los Muertos, which my partner has been dreaming about.
I’ve got a few questions:
- First, do you think renting a car is essential, or are the local bus networks (around Oaxaca) dense and reliable enough?
- Roughly how much do taxi rides cost?
- After our stay in Oaxaca (where the schedule is still flexible), I plan to head to the Pacific coast around Mazunte, with a goal of visiting a lagoon at night to swim in the bioluminescent algae and possibly witness turtle hatchings. But so far, I haven’t noted much else. Any suggestions for things to do/see around Mazunte, or along the route between Oaxaca and the Pacific coast?
Thanks in advance for your advice—I’ll definitely be back with more questions! :)
