Retour du Mali, les Touaregs, Songhaïs, Bozos, Peuls...ont besoin de nous!
by Songhai73
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
bonjour
je rentre du nord Mali ou les touristes se font rares , les populations qui ont investis dans cette activité vont avoir 1 vie encore bien plus difficile .
1er jour , nous visitons Djenné , sa belle mosquée et chance c'est lundi , jour de marché !
je rencontre 1 grand voyageur de VF , Daniel du 74 , ( que le monde est petit !) , qui viens du Burkina , continue son périple en pays Dogon puis Togo .....
2 jours passé en pays Dogons , de Bandiagara , nous avons rejoint Sangha , puis le village de Banani en descendant la falaise , bivouaquer sur les dunes , nuits sous les étoiles , réveil aux sons des nombreux troupeaux ...et merveilleuses rencontres d'hommes et de femmes souriant et accueillant , vacant à leur travail .
nous achetons quelques médicaments de la pharmacopée traditionnel à Bandiagara (je vais tester celui pour soigner mes rhumatismes )
notre guide achète du lait à des femmes Peuls , mais personne n'ose le goûter ...
nous retrouvons Abdoulaye , guide Dogon que nous avons rencontré déja en 2007 .
Les 2 jours passent vite en petites balades , poses rituel du thé , fabrication et dégustation du pain cuit dans le sable , contemplation de la voute céleste et nuits au chaud dans nos duvets...
il faut déja partir , nous longeons la falaise jusqu'à Douenza ....
piste 1 peu chaotique , mais le traversée des villages et les paysages sont tellement magnifiques que l'on ne pense pas à notre petit confort .
bon voyage...
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Salut Francia,
Quel beau voyage tu as dû faire avec de belles rencontres à la clé ! Espérons que les voyageurs de tous horizons ne bouderont pas ce beau pays, comme nous l'avons constaté en Casamance récemment... Tes photos sont magnifiques et elles incitent au voyage ! J'ai l'impression que t'es pas restée inactive pour ce séjour... l'indolence de la Casamance a dû te manquer par moment !!! mais je vois qu'au passage, t'as pensé à tes... rhumatismes !!! ha ha ha !!!! biz
Quel beau voyage tu as dû faire avec de belles rencontres à la clé ! Espérons que les voyageurs de tous horizons ne bouderont pas ce beau pays, comme nous l'avons constaté en Casamance récemment... Tes photos sont magnifiques et elles incitent au voyage ! J'ai l'impression que t'es pas restée inactive pour ce séjour... l'indolence de la Casamance a dû te manquer par moment !!! mais je vois qu'au passage, t'as pensé à tes... rhumatismes !!! ha ha ha !!!! biz
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
Bonjour Francia,
Déjà rentrée, non je rigole. Nous aurions pu nous rencontrer, aussi, à Bandiagara, j'y suis passé. J'ai fait 2 randonnées dans le pays Dogon entre Sangha et Kani-Kombolé. J'en garde un souvenir formidable. Que de sourires et de mains tendues. En ce moment, je suis à Ouaga. Demain départ pour le Togo pour de nouvelles rencontres, aventures.
Bises
Déjà rentrée, non je rigole. Nous aurions pu nous rencontrer, aussi, à Bandiagara, j'y suis passé. J'ai fait 2 randonnées dans le pays Dogon entre Sangha et Kani-Kombolé. J'en garde un souvenir formidable. Que de sourires et de mains tendues. En ce moment, je suis à Ouaga. Demain départ pour le Togo pour de nouvelles rencontres, aventures.
Bises
Daniel - Hédoniste
"Vivre simplement pour que d'autres puissent simplement vivre"
Gandhi
bonjour
hé oui Daniel , déjà rentrée , t'inquiète dans 1 an les séjours seront plus longs !😉
dommage que tu ne nous ais pas suivi !
bonne route pour le Togo .
(j'ai 1 photo sympa de notre rencontre à Djenné )
bises
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
bonjour
en effet je n'ai pas eu le temps de faire de l'aquarelle , comme en Casamance ....j'ai laisser le matériel à l'instit Touareg du village d'Inmaslag ( 20km au nord de Gao )
c'était 1 voyage beaucoup plus mouvementé , pas eu beaucoup de pose !
la suite demain !
bises
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
merci pour ce message qui m'a rappelé de tres bons souvenirs en pays dogons -au mois de janvier - bien sur il ne faut pas les oublier - l'année prochaine j'y retournerai c'est sur - bonjour à aix où j'ai habité pendant 5 ans amitiés alice
alice
bonjour
réveil au pied du Mont Hombori , puis départ à la recherche des éléphants que nous trouvons près d'1 grande mare !
notre petit groupe est étonné de trouver au milieu de cette région , qui paraît désertique , autant de petits villages , de troupeaux ...l'accueil est comme d'ordinaire , curieux , souriant , attachant !
après quelques petits soucis mécaniques et 2 crevaisons , nous continuons en direction de Tombouctou !
- arrêt dans 1 super campement que je recommande , environ 30km avant le bac : Ténéré -campement . beau et grand jardin potager , ce qui nous permet d'avoir 1 belle assiette de crudité et 1 bon couscous ! tél: 00223 66 97 18 17 , Abdourahmane Ag Abdou Salam et accueil très sympa .
après 1 bonne nuit , départ pour le bac , patience obligé , 1 camion trop chargé n'arrive pas à monter ...nous papotons et le hasard faisant bien les choses , j'échange avec 1 groupe de 3 véhicules , dont 1 vifiste AMIFAT qui continue son périple vers le Burkina , Bénin , Togo...
enfin Tombouctou que je visite avec plaisir pour la 2eme fois .
pose à l'hotel de La Paix , vers le monument , en espérant que cette paix perdure !
bon voyage
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
bonjour Alice
si tu as l'occasion de retourner au Mali , n'hésite pas à aller jusqu'à Tombouctou et voyage si possible en pinasse sur le fleuve , c'est magnifique !
il fait 1 belle journée à Aix les bains 😏
belle journée à toi aussi
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Hello Francia,
j'aurais bien aimé être du voyage ! ça paraît magnifique... et les rencontres aussi !
Petite question sur les photos :
1/ c'est bien des skis qui sont posés sur le mur ? mais à quoi servent-ils ?
2/ les plaques blanches, c'est du sel non ?
bonne journée à toi. J'attends la suite de ton récit.
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
oui , ce sont des skis pour glisser sur les dunes de sable , j'ai essayé 1 fois sur les dunes de l'erg Chebbi au Maroc , c'est sympa et surtout les chutes sont plus amorties 😉 , j'ai pris de belles gamelles🏴☠️ ! c'était il y a longtemps !🙁
et ce sont en effet des blocs de sel .
le suite demain , inch allah !
bises
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
mais oui ns sommes allés à tombouctou aprés nôtre périple dans le pays dogon - tombouctou peutêtre trop rapide mais ça ne m'a pas laissé un souvenir impérissable - pourtant le mot tim bouctou représentait bcp de choses pour moi - la descente en pinasse jusqu'à mopti - magique - moussa un adorable piroguier - les rynocéros - les oiseaux - les villages tout tout tout - à bientôt alice
alice
voila encore des éléphants en attendant les hypos !
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
oui pour Tombouctou qui dans notre imaginaire est 1 ville mythique , on peut être déçu , mais il faut prendre le temps pour la découvrir !
pour moi qui rêvait , depuis ma lecture de l'aventure de René Caillé , c'était quand même de belles émotions !
la suite demain 😏
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
suite du voyage sur le "Djoliba"
nous embarquons très tôt le matin sur 1 pinasse touristique , avec toilette 😏 , le luxe !
3 jours au fil de l'eau , avec bivouacs sur les berges , dans le sable des dunes qui longent le fleuve ...certains profite de la fraicheur de l'eau pour se rafraîchir dans la journée , car le soleil tape fort ( mon nez est rouge 😊 ) , mais le matin au départ il fait frisquet et l'on apprécie notre bonne veste polaire !
nous retrouvons notre pinassier de 2007 , Toumani , toujours aussi efficace pour nous faire voir au plus près les hypos qui pullulent dans cette région du fleuve .
le soir on les entends qui grognent , qui ronflent ( mon voisin de bivouac me dis galamment que je ronfle de la même façon !!!! 🤪 )
on achète du poisson aux pêcheurs Bosos en faisant des poses dans des villages , quel accueil !
pose aussi à Gourma-rharous , j'ai 1 pensée pour Daniel Balavoine et les autres membres de l'hélico qui ont trouvé la mort tout près d'ici il y a plus de 20 ans (1986 )...nostalgie !
on passe vers Bourem , je pense au festival que j'ai loupé , ce ne sera que partie remise , (merci Jahou pour les infos 😉 )
je conseille vraiment à tous de pouvoir voyager sur ce fleuve en pinasse , c'est vraiment de beaux moments de calme , de découvertes de la nature , d'échanges avec les Bosos ...
sachant que la prochaine fois , 1 barrage sera en construction sur cette partie du fleuve , le président ATT doit venir poser le première pierre ces jours ci !
dernier jours de voyage sur le fleuve , nous apercevons la dune rose de Gao , que les sportifs gravissent , et arriver au port à Gao ....ou nous attends notre ami Alheir qui nous emmènent vers 1 bonne bière bien fraîche à l'auberge Assayar.
à demain ( je vais me faire 1 thé chaud 😉 )
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Bonjour Francia,
J'espère que tu vas bien, nul doute après ce joli périple !!!! Merci pour tes infos, pour le partage et les photos !!!!!! Un voyage par procuration, qui fait du bien... L'insolite des skis sur le mur donne le sourire.
Allez vous reconduire le festival Lafi-Bala cette année?
Bien des bisous Madame la Joie !
J'espère que tu vas bien, nul doute après ce joli périple !!!! Merci pour tes infos, pour le partage et les photos !!!!!! Un voyage par procuration, qui fait du bien... L'insolite des skis sur le mur donne le sourire.
Allez vous reconduire le festival Lafi-Bala cette année?
Bien des bisous Madame la Joie !
" Andûni Paalga, " association d'échange culturel et artistique, d'aide à l'enfance et au développement: anduni.paalga@free.fr
http://www.coopfaso.net/andunipaalga
Carnet: De retour du Burkina Faso
bonjour Audrey
oui super ce séjour , il faut que j'écrive la suite c'était " la cerise sur le gâteau " 😏 pour moi !
non pas de festival cette année , (c'est tous les 2 ans ) mais nous fêtons les 20 ans en 2011 , donc note les dates et bienvenue chez "madame la joie "😉
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
suite et fin du périple ...
après notre installation à Gao pour 1 nuit à l'auberge Assayar
nous avons rendu visite à nos amis du village d'Inmaslag , constaté que la pompe après 1 panne était réparée , que la maison des femmes était bien finie et bien utile (les femmes s'en servent pour se réunir , faire de l'artisanat et pour entreposer du matériel et éventuellement pour créer 1 boutique )
nous avons mis en place 1 échange entre les enfants de l'école du village et les enfants d'1 école d'ici , l'instituteur sera 1 lien important .
et puis "cerise sur le gâteaux " nous sommes partis au festival à Tin-aouker , 70 km au nord de Gao ... ça parait complètement irréel d'imaginer 1 festival dans ce coin désertique , on roule , on roule , on se dit que ce n'est pas possible .... et puis après beaucoup de patience , de chaleur , de poussière on arrive en "ville " ! en effet , il y a déjà de la musique diffusée par de gros amplis , des tentes installées pour les groupes , d'autres pour les artisants et aussi pour les spectateurs ...
nous sommes supers accueillis , par les organisateurs et les Touaregs étonnés de voir 4 toubabs qui ont osés braver le danger .
tout est bien sécuriser , policier , militaire encadre le lieu !
on installe nos matelas et duvets dans 1 tente , on profite de l'installation d'une restauration pour s'offrir faire 1 petit repas , puis direction le devant de la scène , assis sur des nattes , tout près des artistes ...
que du bonheur !
premier groupe Tartit , deuxième 1chanteuse de Tombouctou super ( je ne me souviens plus de son nom ) et mon groupe préféré Tinariwen ... je ne m'attendais pas à les écouter ici , c'est vraiment de beaux moments !
si nous ne sommes que 4 Européens , il y a beaucoup de Touaregs , les Hommes avec leur plus belles tenues , les femmes superbes dans leurs atours de fête , embijouter de colliers en or ...
la soirée s'écoule avec d'autres groupes , 3h du matin , on rejoint notre tente pour une courte nuit .
réveil joyeusement agité , on rencontre Ibrahim Ag Assarid ( frère de Moussa qui a écrit le livre " y a pas d'embouteillage dans le désert "
) pourtant que d'embouteillage ce jour , entre ceux qui partent ceux qui arrivent , les dromadaires , les ânes , les moutons et les joyeux enfants !
puis je me dirige vers la tente des Tinariwens , on échange avec Abrayboune et on fait même des photos , en vraie groupie que je suis 😛
la matinée passe d'1 groupe à l'autre , quel accueil , que de belles rencontres et échanges !
j'ai acheté plusieurs coussins en cuir rouge , tannés et teint par les femmes , ils font bel effet dans mon salon ( à voir , pour ceux qui auront la chance d'être mes hôtes 😉 )
retour nostalgique vers Gao ou nous finiront notre séjour ....
à l'année prochaine amis Touaregs , inch Allah !
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Tu as raison, c'était un très beau voyage...
Comme je te connais, je t'imagine très bien ! t'as dû t'éclater ma copine pour ce Festival. La prochaine fois, c'est à ton tour de m'emmener !
bizzzzzz
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
bonjour
chiche , je t'emmène la prochaine fois , ça te changeras de la Casamance !
on s'est tous fait remarquer , imagine juste 4 blancs au milieu des Touaregs !
les danses sont plus cool , les femmes dansent en restant assise !
pour moi , pas sportive , ça me va bien !
belle journée
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Effectivement, j'imagine que l'accueil a dû être chaleureux !
Comment ça les femmes dansent assises ???? Elles connaissent pas le "sabar" (le collé-serré sénégalais !) m'en vais aller leur apprendre moi !!!!!!
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
tu sais , il fait chaud dans le désert , donc le collé-sérré ça se fait pas en public !😉
elles sont assise en tailleur et il n'y a que le haut qui bouge , en ondulant jusqu'au bout des doigts ...c'est très sensuelle je trouve , mais en douceur !
ça me convient bien comme danse , j'ai essayé , j'ai fais sensation !😏
bises
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
bonjour Francia, bravo pour ton périple;
cet aprem, beau documentaire sur la 5 à 15h sur Tombouctou et la route de René CAILLE. le pont sur le Niger apporte un plus à certains (commerçants), mais désespère les piroguiers qui ont divisé leur salaire par 2 (120euros à 60/70 euros) paraît-il!
j'ai pensé à toi;
à plus
André
bonsoir Francia,
je t'y vois très bien... retraitée africaine, à passer tes journées à danser... assise !!!! gros bisous
je t'y vois très bien... retraitée africaine, à passer tes journées à danser... assise !!!! gros bisous
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos parents, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants.
Saint Exupéry
bonjour André
la situation est difficile pour beaucoup au Mali , j'ai trouvé qu'il y avait peu de pinasses sur le fleuve , surtout entre Tombouctou et Gao , on devait vraiment être les seuls étrangers à braver le danger !😏 dommage !
hier soir je suis nous sommes allés écouter le groupe Touaregs Tartit à Chambéry , que nous avions découvert à Tin-aouker , le monde est bien petit et offre de belles rencontres et de beaux moments de partages .
et toi , les voyages ?
a +
cordialement
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
tu verras quand t'auras mon age ! 😕🤪🏴☠️ , non je plaisante , en Afrique plus d'Arthrose !
je rajeunie 😛 , cette année j'ai même fais de stepper pour pomper l'eau , pas besoin d'aller dans 1 salle de gym !
bises
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
bonjour André
et toi , les voyages ?
a +
cordialement
francia
bonjour Francia, nous partons en avril pour 2 mois et + en Turquie; on aime toujours le Mali; André
bonjour Francia, nous partons en avril pour 2 mois et + en Turquie; on aime toujours le Mali; André
Bonjour Madame,
vous avez vu des rhinocéros le long du fleuve Niger ?! A peine croyable (du moins, moi, je n'ai jamais vu un rhino au Mali). J'ose dire que vous avez vu des hippos ...
De plus, si vous partez de Tombouctou à Mopti par pirogue, c'est une montée, et à l'inverse, si vous partez de Mopti à Tombouctou, c'est une descente ...
Sinon, d'accord, voilà, les oiseaux au delta, tous les villages ... unique !
Mais il faut encore partir de Tombouctou à Gao sur le fleuve, c'est trois fois impérissable ...
Bon week-end à vous, hgb
vous avez vu des rhinocéros le long du fleuve Niger ?! A peine croyable (du moins, moi, je n'ai jamais vu un rhino au Mali). J'ose dire que vous avez vu des hippos ...
De plus, si vous partez de Tombouctou à Mopti par pirogue, c'est une montée, et à l'inverse, si vous partez de Mopti à Tombouctou, c'est une descente ...
Sinon, d'accord, voilà, les oiseaux au delta, tous les villages ... unique !
Mais il faut encore partir de Tombouctou à Gao sur le fleuve, c'est trois fois impérissable ...
Bon week-end à vous, hgb
désolé pour les rhino - ok pour les hippo -merci pour la correction - merci aussi pour la correction entre la montée et la descente - en tout cas ce fut un magnifique voyage alice
alice
Beau compte rendu francia😉
Amitiés
alex
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
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Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!






































