Je recherche une formule qui me permettrait de bien découvrir le sud Marocain en me proposant des logements dans des hôtels de charme, la location d'une voiture et le repas du soir.
Nous sommes un couple et ce voyage est prévu pour 2eme semaine de Novembre.
Concernant le transport aérien nous nous débrouillerons.
bonsoir voici un trajet que j ai trouvé sur un autre forun j ai moi meme refait cet itineraire c etait magique vous pouvez en reprendre une partie .
Nous rentrons d'un superbe voyage réalisé en 10 jours à la découverte
de L'ATLAS qui nous a valu des superbes paysages et souvenirs.
Nous avions emmené la carte michelin 959, et lonelyplanet voici notre itinéraire résumé en quelques mots.
> Départ de Marrakech, du riad « Les cigognes » tenu par des français
mais repris par de nouveaux proprio c est pas terrible Direction Ait Benhadou et logement à l'auberge Ayouze oùnous avons été très bien reçus par Zoé et Abderrahmane et avons passé une délicieuse soirée . Bon plan pour éviter l'arnaque duvillage plus bas.
Ensuite direction El Kelaa des M'Gouna où nous avons réussi à obtenir
une chambre à la Kasbah Itran ( sur la route de Tourbist. La soirée
passée sur le balcon à la lumière des bougies et au son des tambours dominant la vallée reste l'un de nos meilleurs souvenirs de ce voyage. Nous avons.continué notre chemin en direction de la vallée du Dadès où nous avons logé à l'auberge la Kasbah de Victor située vers la fin des gorges après les virages en epingle ( je crois vers le kilomètre 30 ), superbe demeure située sur au centre des gorges et une vue à couper le souffle. Accueil très chaleureux par Eddy et son épouse Christine, leur fils Victor et notre meilleur souvenir culinaire, une tajine aux figues et dattes. Chambres très sympa et piscine . Une très bonne adresse à recommander, nous y avons finalement séjourné une
seconde nuit. Ensuite, nous avons logé à l'auberge dans la vallée du Draa dans la Maison d'hôtes Taborihte . Emplacement
superbe, nous avons logé dans la nouvelle partie et avons profité d'une
matinée ensoleillée près de la piscine après une magnifique balade effectuée dans la palmeraie au départ de la chambre. Excellent emplacement. Ensuite, nous avons continué notre chemin en direction d'Agoudal jusque El Ksiba via Agoudal et Imilchil sur les pistes au moyen
d'une Dacia Logan sans l'ombre d'un problème malgré quelques craintes dans quelques villages où la piste est quelque peu défoncée. Le paysage dans les gorges est fabuleux dès que vous avez passé le stop des cars de touristes et malgré une piste défoncée et en cours de reconstruction à la suite d'orages violents. Souvenir magnifique. Nous avons fait une halte dans l'auberge tenue par! Ibrahim à Agoudal et renseignée dans votre guide, superbe accueil, très propre et nous avons apprécié la simplicité de lieux et l'isolement.Ensuite retour vers le goudron à Khénifra à l'hôtel El kamar, rien à dire mais rien de pittoresque non plus. Et puis retour à Casablanca. Ce fût un séjour génial où nous regrettions fortement de ne pas avoir un 4x4, chose promise, nous y retournons l'an prochain pour approfondir ce parcours
Effectivement hôtel de charme dans mon esprit s'oppose aux complexes hôteliers de 100 chambres et plus. Je vois une petite unité hôtelière ou un gite (un ryad) avec quelques chambres, très propre, salle de bain privée, pourquoi pas une petite piscine. Cela peut être également une chambre confortable chez l'habitant.
Ce n'est pas ces barres de béton conçues pour recevoir des hordes de touristes sans âme. Ce genre d'usine à touristes, je le fuis !
Merci à Rillettes34 pour m'avoir averti sur le risque de mauvaise interprétation.
sur ton itinéraire, (sympa et varié), tu vas trouver de tout comme hotellerie, du bon au mauvais, du simplissime au palace.
Agadir et alentour, un bon choix, trop pour détailler, les guides t'indiqueront.
Sidi Ifni, http://www.maisonxanadu.com/presentation/index.html
Tiznit, pas grand choix, mais la grosse surprise, qui pour moi est un hotel "charmant", l'hotel des touristes.
entre Tiznit et Ouarzazate par Tata pas de merveilles !
à Tata, un pis aller, le "relais des sables", charme 'léger'
ou à Foum Zguid, l'auberge Iriqui, très sympa, mais même (manque de) charme.
A Ouarzazate, du choix, Dar Qamar, dans la kasbah, correspondrait à tes souhaits.
et si tu fais un petit crochet par Agdz, un autre Dar Qamar !! un bijou de calme et d'accueil!
certains confondraient 'hotel de charme' et 'hotel de charmes' 😉
Merci Raoulx, je vais regarder tes suggestions. Je pense que tu as fait ce voyage vu comme tu en parles. Je me souviens (en 1981) il y avait des problèmes avec le front polisario Est-ce que tout est calme maintenant sur le parcours?
Es tu allé à Goulimine (marché aux chameaux) J'aimerais bien m'y arrêter. En 1981 ce n'était pas possible.
Ne pense plus au Maroc du siècle dernier !
Tout a changé !! et tout est calme .... entre les poussées de fièvre.😉
Le "fameux" marché aux chameaux est décevant, si on s'attend à voir des troupeaux, contrairement à ce qu'écrit le "routard", mais c'est un superbe et authentique souk (samedi).
Merci pour ton explication. Je suis bien d'accord avec toi, les usines à touristes: "au secours"😕! Si tu vas à Sidi ifni, on se verra ptet, j'y vais courant octobre!
Ce qui se conçoit bien s'énonce clairement
Allez l'OM !!
Passer pour un idiot aux yeux d'un imbécile est une volupté de fin gourmet !
Je recherche une formule qui me permettrait de bien découvrir le sud Marocain en me proposant des logements dans des hôtels de charme, la location d'une voiture et le repas du soir.
Nous sommes un couple et ce voyage est prévu pour 2eme semaine de Novembre.
Concernant le transport aérien nous nous débrouillerons.
Une maison de charme n'est pas forcément hors de prix.
Il y a des hébergements simples, décorés avec recherche et goût, dans un beau cadre, à des prix tout à fait raisonnables.
Mais cela est valable pour le Maroc comme pour la France, le charme peut se trouver dans tout type de lieu ou d'habitation ...
Aussi je ne comprends pas le commentaire :ça n'a pas la même signification qu'en france, j'èspère
" Nous ne saurons jamais tout le bien qu'un simple sourire peut être capable de faire."
Mère Teresa
Il est possible en effet de trouver des adresses très agréable pour des prix modestes.
Pour la région Sud-est, voici plusieurs adresses:
Au Gorges du Dades, auberge "berbères de la montagne" http://www.berbere-montagne.com/
à ne pas rater! des gens super et un service irréprochable
Dans la vallée des roses, plusieurs adresses facile à trouver
A Erfoud, Auberge Merzane http://www.aubergemerzane.com/ chez Etienne et Agnès
A Merzouga, plusieurs possibilités bien sûr. Mais allez à Takojt 2km avant merzouga à côtés de l'auberge Panorama.
Vous y trouverez l'auberge Takojt www.takojt.com dans la même fourchette de prix.
d'accord pour certaines, mais on est complètement à l'écart de l'itinéraire de notre ami !
Le Maroc entier est truffé de bonnes adresses, mais pas toutes peuvent etre qualifiées de "charme".
oui tu site de bonnes adresses mais rien a voir avec une maison de charme car une maison de charme serait plus une maisons d hotes de 3 4 chambres qu une auberge avec 10 chambres
Pourquoi un "hotel de charme" n'aurait il pas 10 chambres ?? voire plus !
On peut rester humain, avoir un accueil de haut de gamme, des prestations de qualité supérieure, du cocooning, une déco de qualité, une table raffinée dans toutes les tailles d'établissements.
Par exemple je considère, selon mes critères persos, que le "palais Salam de Tarroudant" (au hasard !), malgré ses 140 chambres, ou le "Palais Jamai de Fes" (autre hasard !) s'en rapprochent fortement.
Pourquoi un "hotel de charme" n'aurait il pas 10 chambres ?? voire plus !
On peut rester humain, avoir un accueil de haut de gamme, des prestations de qualité supérieure, du cocooning, une déco de qualité, une table raffinée dans toutes les tailles d'établissements.
Par exemple je considère, selon mes critères persos, que le "palais Salam de Tarroudant" (au hasard !), malgré ses 140 chambres, ou le "Palais Jamai de Fes" (autre hasard !) s'en rapprochent fortement.
A 900DH et 1800DH mini la nuit, ils ont intérêt a avoir du charme !!
Au Maroc, un logement de "charme " doit avoir de bonnes commodités ( du pays), un paysage, un calme, une propreté, une gastronomie abordable et une fraicheur/chaleur chez le recevant
tout ca pour moins de 900Dh la nuit
La vie c'est comme une boite de chocolat, on ne sait jamais sur quoi on va tomber
Dar El Ahlam dans la palmeraie de Skoura, l'hôtel le plus cher du Maroc. Chambres (c'est plutôt des suites) entre 900 et 1350 euros (et non pas dirhams) la nuit. Pour ce prix-là, vaut mieux souffrir d'insomnie.
oui effectivement le budjet d un mois pour une nuit cela raccourci les vacances ...........
mais je pense que l on peux trouver des maisons d hotes a des prix abordables sans trop se ruiner heureusement pour nous.....................
oui en meme temps il en faut pour tous les gouts et je dirais plutot pour toutes les bourses j espere que pour ce prix l acceuil est parfait.....................ou avez vous des remarques?????????????
Dar El Ahlam trop cher pour ce que c est tout les clients le disent regarde sur les sites de critiques
j y suis passez pour mes 15 ans mariage le seul souvenir c est mon porte monaie qui en a pris un coup
dommage
bonsoir je suis etonnée de votre avis car personnelement j ai trouvée le Dar El Ahlam plutot sympa chauffeur a disposition piscine agreable seuls les repas sont a revoir et eventuellement une partie du personel pas tres agreable
***** les repas sont a revoir et eventuellement une partie du personel pas tres agreable *****
ne serait il pas normal qu'à 1000 euros la nuit (c'est pas des dh !!) meme en all include , que les repas soient parfaits , et que tout le personnel soit agréable ??
je veux pas le crier trop fort mais ils sont tellement gentils que faut je refile leur adresse apres j arrete sinon on va m accusez de faire la pub
gite chez pauline a tadighoust
un couple de retraité vraiment adorable la deco africaine super sympa et la cuisine hum.........................
ca doit faire tres longtemps que vous n etes pas allez au palais salam car c est un hotel tres viellot la nouriture est plus que tolerable si c est cela que vous appelez un hotel de charme?
ok ce n est pas grave je voulais juste preciser que le palais salam avait pris un coup de vieux il devient urgent de le rafraichir.
ps cela ma donnée l occasion de visiter ton site et je l ai trouvée interessant.
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Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!