Retour d'experience sur le tour du Queyras (GR58) effectué en randonnée itinérante (bivouac) du 14 au 21 aout 2013 avec Emilie (Mili2moi).
Itinéraire :
Tour classique en sens anti horaire avec départ de Ceillac.
Bivouac à toutes les étapes à l’exception d’Abriès (nuit au gite Ancolie Bleue)
Mercredi (2h de marche)
Ceillac - 2h au dessus de Ceillac
Dénivelé positif (D+) : 560 m
Dénivelé négatif (D-) : 0 m
Jeudi
2h au dessus de Ceillac - col des Estronques - Saint Véran - chapelle de Clausis
D+ : 1010 m
D- : 870 m
Vendredi
chapelle de Clausis - col de Chamoussière - refuge d'Agnel - col Vieux - 3/4h en dessous du lac Egorgéou
D+ : 770 m
D- : 1010 m
Samedi
3/4h en dessous du lac Egorgéou - la Monta - Crête de Gilly - Abriès
D+ : 920m
D- : 1440m
Dimanche
Abriès - col de Malrif - les Fonts de Cervière - 1h30 au dessus des Fonts
D+ : 1510 m
D- : 790 m
Lundi
1h30 au dessus des Fonts - col de Peas - Souliers - Col du Tronchet - Arvieux
D+ : 840 m
D- : 1590 m
Mardi
Arvieux - col de Furfande - refuge de Furfande - les Escoyères - Bramousse - Chalets de Bramousse
D+ : 1660 m
D- : 1310 m
Mercredi (2h30 de marche)
Chalets de Bramousse - col de Bramousse - Ceillac
D+ : 350 m
D- : 610 m
Dénivelé total : 7620 m
Temps de marche :
Temps de marche moyen : entre 8 et 9h (soit de 9h30 à 19h avec 2 grosses pauses (midi et gouter) et de multiples petites pauses).
Temps de marche correspondant avec les indications au début de la randonnée. A la fin, temps de marche effectif inférieur au temps de marche indiqué.
Poids des sacs :
17 et 18kg (début de randonnée) 11 et 9kg (fin de randonnée)
Nourriture emportée : 5,8kg
Quantité d'eau maximum transportée : 5,5L
Ravitaillement :
Ravitaillements à Saint Véran, Abriès et Arvieux.
Attention, pas de ravitaillement possible à Souliers (contrairement à ce qui est indiqué dans le Topo Guide)
Conclusion :
Très belle randonnée aux paysages très variés : à chaque passage de col, un paysage différent! Forêts de mélèzes, lacs d'altitude, alpages, pierriers, vaches et marmottes agrémentent agréablement le parcours. Sans oublier " l'exclusivité bivouac " : le réveil au son des cloches des vaches!!
Au mieux 18h30 dans les très bons jours...
Il me semble en effet qu'on était un peu en décalé, la plupart des autres randonneurs qu'on croisait finissaient plus tôt, mais partaient aussi plus tôt le matin.
L'ambiguité sur le temps de marche est levée, j'ai modifié!
Et pour compléter le descriptif, j'ajoute la liste du matériel emporté.
N'est pas indiquée la pharmacie que je ne transportais pas.
VETEMENTS (* sur soi) Qtité 3 619 g
chaussures de marche* (1) 1 230 g
T-shirt respirant* (2) 276 g
pantalon* (2) 484 g
short (1) 132 g
pull polaire fin (1) 282 g
sous pull thermolactil (1) 230 g
softshell (1) 600 g
chaussettes rando* (2) 126 g
casquette* (1) 48 g
tongs (1) 188 g
gants (1) 23 g
PORTAGE 3 339 g
sac à dos (1) 2 292 g
batons de marche* (2) 575 g
poncho (1) 472 g
BIVOUAC 5 273 g
tente (1) 3 000 g
sac de couchage (1) 1 330 g
matelas pneumatique (1) 850 g
lampe frontale (1) 93 g
CUISINE 596 g
réchaud gaz (1) 233 g
bouteille gaz (1) 240 g
briquet (1) 11 g
éponge (1) 26 g
produit vaisselle (1) 30 g
popotte 2 personnes (1)
opinel (1) 45 g
pastilles micropur (1) 11 g
TOILETTE 697 g
serviette (2) 416 g
brosse à dent (1) 14 g
dentfrice (1) 10 g
savon de marseille (1)
stick lèvre (1) 11 g
déodorant (1) 50 g
crème solaire (1) 88 g
PQ 68 g
mouchoirs papier 40 g
DIVERS 721 g
portefeuille (1) 250 g
téléphone portable (1) 120 g
appareil photo (1) 240 g
couverture de survie (1) 53 g
jeu de cartes (1) 58 g
sacs plastiques
ficelle
boules quies
TOTAL BAGAGE 14 245 g
POIDS DU SAC 11 949 g
RAVITAILLEMENT 5 000 g
eau 2 000 g
nourriture 3 000 g
tout ça c est très bien cet inventaire pour feuille Excel ou bilan comptable tu oublies aussi les températures.
Mais quid du ressenti, des impressions , des difficultés au jour le jour bref désolé d écrire que toute la description technique c est un peu barbant 😉
C'est vrai que les températures, c'est aussi une question que l'on s'est posé avant de partir! Les nuits sont vraiment fraiches en effet... Mais la chasse au gramme a eu raison du thermomètre!
Par contre, le coté descriptif, c'est celui que je recherche à chaque fois quand je prépare mes randonnées. Ça m'aide à prévoir au mieux l'itinéraire, le contenu du sac, et à me situer par rapport aux randonneurs qui ont déjà effectué la randonnée ou des randonnées du même type.
Le ressenti permet en effet de se projeter plus facilement dans la randonnée, mais il est plus difficilement exploitable puisque très personnel.
Au ressenti, l'étape la plus difficile était celle du samedi, menant à Abries : la montée à la crête de Gilly, en grande partie droit dans la pente et sur chemin très accidenté, parait ne pas vouloir finir. C'est d'ailleurs la partie du GR où nous avons croisé le moins de monde.
Pour les autres étapes, la dernière 1/2h était souvent la plus dur, avec la fatigue accumulée de la journée à gérer et la recherche de la zone de bivouac idéale à effectuer.
Heureusement, même après une nuit en tente pas forcément des plus confortable, le corps repart plutôt volontiers pour une nouvelle journée de marche.
D'autant plus que suite à chaque ascension, la récompense est là, avec toujours un paysage différent voire surprenant à découvrir.
Ce tour du Queyras est dans le sens habituel. C'est vrai que le camping sauvage est interdit...et les gîtes étaient tous fermés.
Bravo, belle éducation.
Voyager à pied › France › Provence-Côte d'Azur · 9 replies
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Je voulais partager avec vous une expérience incroyable que j'ai vécue récemment et qui m'a vraiment marqué: la traversée du Mercantour en autonomie. C'est un…
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
My question: can anyone suggest a 5-to-7-day loop hiking route from Chefchaouen in Talassemtane Park, ideally passing by the God’s Bridge? Or a paper guidebook that covers a few options?
We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
Thanks in advance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands.
Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili.
Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?)
There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4.
If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit.
if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips.
Here are my questions:
- Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages)
- I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share!
Yann
I’m a 56-year-old man who’s done several treks in Nepal and elsewhere. Also passionate about photography.
I’m looking for one or more people to form a group for a trek in Nepal. The trek is the Annapurna and Manaslu circuit (24 days), including a stop at Tilicho Lake. I’ve got a great itinerary and the local company seems solid. The price is around $1600.
I’ll be in Nepal from April 5 to May 12, 2026, so the trek would need to happen within those dates.
