We’d like to travel overland from Turkey to India in our converted van, but there are very few options these days.
Crossing Iran seems risky and not particularly safe.
Has anyone here done it? If so, which route did you take to minimize safety concerns?
Hi,
Your question isn't very clear...
Crossing Iran is possible—just stay neutral and avoid too much contact with the local population, since you never know how it might be interpreted by regime supporters.
Then there's Pakistan... well, I don’t have any info on that.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
It’s still complicated for Iran, though. Frenchman Louis Arnaud was imprisoned for two years while he was also traveling through the country. In short, not a good idea at all.
A buddy and I did it, but in the opposite direction—overland from India all the way to France.
That was back in... 2005. It was a bit sketchy, especially in Pakistan and near the Afghan border since it was right after 9/11, but things have probably gotten worse since then. That said, I remember we found a guidebook (Lonely Planet?) just for that route (something like "The Silk Road" or a similar title).
The major cities we hit: Amritsar (India/Pakistan border) > Lahore > Rawalpindi > the Karakoram Highway > Peshawar > Quetta > Zahedan (Pakistan/Iran border) > Isfahan > Tehran > Tabriz > Turkey > Europe.
For Iran, we got a one-week transit visa (with exit at a different border than entry), and for Pakistan, a one-month visa. India was easier.
I see you're a woman, and yeah, it was definitely tougher for the women we met along the way (Pakistan: had to cover up completely and deal with some seriously judgmental stares; Iran: had to wear a headscarf).
Check online to see if you can find that guidebook—we picked it up in a bookstore in India, so it might still be around.
You might also want to check the French embassy’s updates. Even if they’re often overly cautious, things *are* a bit tense in Iran right now.
Let me know if you need anything else!
Cheers! !
Please, please, please ! Que les gens arrêtent de dire qu'ils ont "fait" un pays. Ou alors, qu'ils soient capables de m'expliquer ce qu'ils mettent, sincèrement, derrière ce mot. Voyageons pour vivre, rencontrer, observer et ressentir notre voyage et non par besoin de possession.
For over 60 years, thousands of camper vans have taken the route to India via Iran; 99.99% have had an amazing experience, with impeccable hospitality and safety. I highly recommend taking the time to explore the entire country.
However, the Balochistan region on the Pakistani side does pose some risks, though these are mitigated since you’ll be given an escort at the border. So no worries at all.
Good evening,
Yes, it's possible. As "Perju" mentioned earlier, just avoid playing amateur political journalist and don’t dwell on politics. Iranians are very welcoming. Diesel is quite cheap—you just need to wait in front of a gas station with a jerrycan, and some truckers will offer to fill it for you, or the station manager will sort something out. They have a special system for fuel.
I crossed this border in 2017 on my motorcycle without any major issues. The last Iranian city is very safe, and it’s likely the authorities will take care of you depending on the alert level.
On the Pakistani side, you’ll be escorted by a police team (the Levies) all the way to Quetta.
Balochistan remains a very unstable area, but otherwise, it’s pure bliss.
Hello Agnès,
If you're traveling in this country as a tourist—that is, without trying to make "oriented" contacts with the local population, and especially without trying to get their take on the current climate—there’s no problem visiting the country.
Anyone who’s run into trouble was "arrested" during protests against the regime, and even if they were just there as spectators... they really had no business being in that environment.
I traveled in Iran for about 40 days. I was "stopped" twice by the army and the police under pretty stressful conditions. I wasn’t in a city, in the middle of a protest, or with any Iranian dissidents. Everything went smoothly—they understood I was just there for tourism.
That’s definitely not the case for those—French or otherwise—who are currently detained in the country.
I went in September/October 2018, right after the U.S. sanctions on Iran’s nuclear program. The atmosphere could’ve been much worse...
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Haha,
Your comments are so full of shared experiences...
Iran is still a destination for travelers—maybe not for those who prefer "Fram"-style trips, though. That might be your case. Happy sharing!
What was possible yesterday—is it still possible today?
Maybe.
It’s up to you to decide what risk you’re willing to take for this trip.
The current situation in the area isn’t great, and Iran is marked in red on most travel advisory maps—not just those from France. That wasn’t the case a few years ago.
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Nothing probably happens to the vast majority of people who make this journey, but (especially in the current context), denying that this crossing carries any risk at all is either bad faith or ignorance. And even more so in Iranian or Pakistani Balochistan.
Before any reply that would include false assumptions, I’ll clarify that I’m not the type to share the alarmism of the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs’ travel advisories, and I’ve traveled in Iran—not at all with FRAM—but completely independently and without any reservations.
The risk exists. It’s up to each person to assess it and accept (or not) the possibilities, however small they may be.
Thanks everyone for your replies. Yes, I’m following the travel advisories very closely—the map is definitely red. Our friends got a transit visa through Russia, then Kazakhstan/Mongolia, another transit visa to Vladivostok, then Japan and across, but the route is really expensive.
Iran is a stunning country from what I’ve seen, but crossing it doesn’t reassure me, and the Balochistan region definitely gives me pause.
It’s such a shame that these days we can’t visit certain countries like this one—they deserve to be known.
I’ll keep thinking about this route because it’s a family project that’s close to our hearts. [;)]
There's no point in going through Kazakhstan to reach Mongolia, especially since you'd have to cross Russia again to get there. You can't go directly from Kazakhstan to Mongolia.
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Hi there,
No problem crossing Iran by vehicle—we spent 20 days there in mid-October, right during the rocket-ping-pong period.
Avoiding protests and steering clear of political discussions is easy to do. Camping was hassle-free, just be mindful of certain spots (factories, watchtowers) where you might face a thorough check. But if you ask nearby soldiers or police, they’ll let you know if it’s okay.
Drones in your vehicle are fine, just don’t use them without asking nearby military or police for permission.
The welcome from locals was incredible—warm smiles, "welcome," "I love you," honks, and friendly waves. So many people invited us to their homes to eat or even stay the night, even though it’s technically not allowed.
Don’t believe the nonsense from Western media; it’s nothing like the reality on the ground.
Go for it!
PS: We didn’t go to Tehran or Qom.
Bienheureux les fêlés, car ils laissent passer la lumière.
And what happens if Iran decides to close its borders? If the situation gets even worse in this volatile part of the world?
What if the mullahs take offense at some decision made by France?
It’s not the Iranian people and their hospitality that are in question.
But rather the dictatorship in power and the current geopolitical situation.
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Politics, geopolitics, dictatorships, and all that—we don’t give a hoot [;)] (to keep it polite) when it comes to our travels. It’s always been like that, and it’ll keep going. It’s open, so we go, and we adapt on the spot.
Bienheureux les fêlés, car ils laissent passer la lumière.
"Adventure begins at dawn
At the dawn of every morning
Adventure begins then
As the light washes our hands
Adventure begins at dawn
And dawn guides us on the way
Adventure is the treasure
We discover every morning" – Jacques Brel.
Even Alexandre Dumas, during his journey through Russia and the Caucasus, called it "Voyage au Caucase"—let’s spare ourselves the subtleties of French semantics.
Hello,
First, you’ll need a visa in advance (don’t mention a problematic profession), plus a carnet de passage—the tourism office guy in Tabriz can help with the CDP.
In Iran, you’ll receive an amazing welcome from the locals; you’ll be invited everywhere.
However, avoid discussing politics, respect local customs and religion, and dress appropriately.
The south is also stunning, and you can cross into Pakistan by following the coast from Chabahar.
I’ve been to Iran several times and will definitely go back.
Don’t just pass through—Iran is full of wonders!
"c'est pas moi qui fais le voyage, c'est le voyage qui me fait"
bernard lavilliers
Politics, geopolitics, dictatorships, and all that—we don’t give a damn ;) (to keep it polite) when it comes to our travels. It’s always been like that, and it’ll keep going. It’s open, so we go and adapt on the spot.
I agree with Attila’s message—I also think your overland trip to India via the Middle East really should take into account, at least a little, the geopolitics and regimes in power in these countries. The current tragic situation in Kashmir and its upcoming consequences should make you think a bit more seriously about the idea of just "adapting" on the spot... Right?
No change for me—there’s no such thing as zero risk, nowhere, not even in France.
And unfortunately, some people confuse risk with danger.
I’d advise those interested in these trips to check out WhatsApp groups for travelers currently in those areas, where you can get a clear idea of the reality on the ground.
As for those who, without ever having set foot in these countries, bombard you with negative info pulled from their own cowardly imaginations... (censored)
Bienheureux les fêlés, car ils laissent passer la lumière.
There’s danger everywhere—being at high school in Nantes yesterday, crossing the street in front of your home, or attending a dance at the Bataclan a few years ago.
Isn’t traveling about heading into the unknown? Otherwise, it’s just tourism in Spain or Portugal.
Traveling is taking a risk (which isn’t the same as danger) AND knowing how to assess it by getting information from the right people and staying updated on current events.
It’s about distinguishing media propaganda from reality.
In six months, Trump may have bombed their nuclear plants—directly or through Israel—maybe we’ll be in World War III, or... or...
My answer applies to now... and right now, you can cross Iran or stay there without any particular danger or risk if you follow what I mentioned in my previous post.
Best regards,
"c'est pas moi qui fais le voyage, c'est le voyage qui me fait"
bernard lavilliers
It’s obvious that in Switzerland you’re way, way less at risk... when you cross Geneva you have to stay alert all the time—imagine if you drift over the white line, suddenly three police cars surround you (especially if you’ve got French plates...). So yeah, in Iran it’s actually a lot more chill...
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Well, let's just say there are quite a few risks when crossing Iran... but you can minimize them if you avoid getting involved in protests, don’t try to mingle with the locals too much, don’t film sensitive sites, don’t fly drones all over the place—basically, if you visit the country and not its people... which works perfectly for me, since I’m not a people person. I’m there for the landscapes...
Qui boit l'eau d'une terre étrangère doit en suivre les coutumes (proverbe Mongol)
Well, has Iran done something to you?
Because from what I’m reading, it’s becoming an obsession!
Iran isn’t any more dangerous than any other country as long as you respect the local customs. It seems to me this forum is a place for sharing information. Some travelers who’ve been there and come back (with smiles) have explained things pretty clearly. If you don’t like Iran for political reasons, that’s fine, but don’t discourage others from having their own experience.
"I don’t like the theocracy that martyrs the people of this country, that’s all."
We got that—reminder: travelers don’t get involved in politics outside their own country. That concept understood, no problem.
"Is traveling from Iran to Pakistan safe?"
No more dangerous than driving in Europe. There are areas to avoid, like the rough neighborhoods and drug-dealing hotspots in Marseille, Nantes, Rennes, or Grenoble. And of course, don’t try to play the activist—like Greenpeace types breaking into nuclear plants for clout—or the GoPro journalist. In Iran, that’ll land you in prison.
"Can an adventurer travel through Iran?"
For travelers too.
I can understand Attila not wanting to endorse any particular political regime, and I get why you might not agree.
That’s the whole debate, really. Should we avoid visiting a country—or just passing through—if the leaders are a bit too heavy-handed politically?
Some vacationers supposedly cancel trips to the U.S. because of the blond guy, while others skip Middle Eastern countries because they see the government as far-right. Well, that’s fine—everyone makes their own choices.
For me, if I’m thinking about my vacation plans, I don’t overcomplicate it. If a country appeals to me, I couldn’t care less about who’s running it. What am I supposed to do—march in the streets there? Yeah, right.
Anyway, everyone has their own choices, as I said earlier.
And to wrap up, I’m really envious of Tiger3 and their amazing moto-trips through countries that are *way* less traveled. [;)]
a traveler doesn’t meddle in politics outside their own country
I completely agree. But travelers do take geopolitics into account when planning their trips...
No more dangerous than driving in Europe
Really?
So, are the risks of being taken hostage in Europe the same as in Iran?
Is the chance of Europe erupting in conflict the same as the Middle East?
Are the odds of a revolution breaking out in Europe equal to those in Iran?
Does Europe fund Hamas and Hezbollah?
For travelers too.
I have a broader definition of the word "traveler" than you do.
Personally, I’d call someone who currently visits countries like Venezuela, Iran, Afghanistan, Syria, Ukraine, Israel, or Pakistan an "adventurer."
For North Korea, I’d say they’re a "seeker of the unusual."
I’ve traveled to areas that are now labeled high-risk around the world—they weren’t at the time.
And while French authorities often sound alarmist, that’s not always the case with other countries’ advisories.
In Iran’s case, the advice from Western embassies is consistent everywhere.
I really hope the mullahs’ dictatorship will be overthrown soon.
The tension keeps rising—it should happen eventually.
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No, you didn’t quite catch what I meant.
It’s not because I don’t support the mullahs’ regime that I’m advising against going to Iran.
It’s simply because now isn’t the right time—it’s not safe.
If I only traveled to democracies, I wouldn’t get very far...
Safety isn’t my only deciding factor.
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