We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! [:)]
This option will take you to places quite different from what you already know and what you’ll have discovered before.
I assume you won’t have a 4x4 in Karoo NP? It’s not a deal-breaker, but you’ll miss out on some trails and the most wild accommodations. Either way, even if Beaufort West has some nice spots, it’s better to spend at least one night inside the park.
After that, you could spend more time in the Klein Karoo by cutting, for example, one night in Plettenberg Bay—it’s not exactly thrilling. As Attila suggested, going through Prince Albert (after Karoo NP and before Oudtshoorn) and then the Swartberg Pass is pretty scenic. In this case, from Cape Town, head to Karoo NP via the N1.
In Cape Town, if you’re there on a Saturday, check out the Woodstock Market in the morning. And may I suggest visiting the Zeitz MOCAA, both for its architecture and its unique collections on the continent?
I’d like to keep a few days for Robberg Nature Reserve and Tsitsikamma, so we won’t be able to head inland after the Karoo.
Plus, it seems pretty balanced this way: a bit of city in Cape Town, some sea in the Cape Peninsula, landscapes and animals in the Karoo and Little Karoo, then back to the sea around Tsitsikamma, and more animals in Kruger.
I’ll note the cottages in Karoo NP. I hope they’re better than other SANParks accommodations. Do you know if there’s heating? I’m guessing temperatures will be low in July. I remember being *freezing* in Golden Gate Highlands in a chalet with no heating and missing window panes! The pipes were frozen in the morning—no shower, no flushing . We’re not looking for luxury, just a minimum of comfort.
I’ll finish the sentence: “Generally, she gets it!” [;)]
This option will take you to places very different from those you already know and those you’ll have discovered before.
Well, that’s perfect—that’s the goal.
I assume you won’t have a 4x4 in Karoo NP? It’s not a deal-breaker, but you’ll miss out on some trails and the most wild accommodations. Either way, even if Beaufort West has nice spots, it’s better to spend at least one night in the park.
I don’t know yet what vehicle we’ll rent. I’m handling the itinerary, but my husband’s the one choosing the car. What’s certain is he didn’t like the Toyota Rumion last time and wants something taller with more power. The Rumion barely moved, and reverse only worked half the time (not great when you’re face-to-face with a massive elephant charging toward you on a narrow trail )
For the rest of the trip, you could spend more time in the Klein Karoo by skipping a night in Plettenberg, which isn’t that exciting. As Attila suggested, going through Prince Albert (after Karoo NP and before Oudtshoorn) and the Swartberg Pass is pretty scenic. In this case, from Cape Town, head to Karoo NP via the N1
I’ve planned 2 nights in the Klein Karoo (De Cango Guest Farm caught my eye). Besides the Swartberg Pass and Meiringspoort route and visiting an ostrich farm, what else is there to do?
In Cape Town, if you’re there on a Saturday, check out the Woodstock Market in the morning. And may I suggest visiting the Zeitz MOCAA for both its architecture and its unique collections on the continent?
We’ll arrive in Cape Town on a Sunday or Monday—missed the market!
We’ll see about the Zeitz MOCAA depending on the weather. It could be a good backup plan since it looks interesting, even if we’re not big museum-goers
Uhhh, when I was there, I was looking for A/C more than heating...
So, there's A/C but what about heating???
There’s a forum on SanParks. You could ask there. [;)]
Maybe they have heated blankets or portable heaters. It definitely gets pretty cold outside at night. I had frost at Mokola NP.
There’s no heating in Kruger, and nights can get really chilly. In the permanent bungalows, it’s fine, but in the safari tents, it’s freezing...
Golden Gate Highlands is at high altitude in the mountains. Even in summer, it wasn’t super warm in the middle of the night.
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You're right, I'll check with Sanparks.
If the temperatures are similar to Kruger it'll be fine, but I think it's colder in the Karoo. I don't remember being cold in the Kruger chalets. We had dinner outside in puffer jackets, but inside was okay.
Apart from the route via Swartberg Pass and Meiringspoort and an ostrich farm visit, what else is there to do?
I think I read somewhere (maybe on your site?) that you like hiking. If you have a 4x4, head to Hell (Die Hel), otherwise, you can walk part of the track leading there—but watch out for leopards, they’re in paradise there! More hikes in this mountain range.
In Oudtshoorn, you can visit a fairly new place that showcases ostriches in all their glory (Ostrich Emporium).
It won’t be fig season anymore, but the track leading to Weltevrede Fig Farm—an unexpected oasis—is a great example of the region (no 4x4 needed).
Thanks for all these interesting leads. I really like the idea of doing a tour in hell
gare aux léopards qui y sont comme au paradis
Leopards? Really? Not easily visible during the day, I imagine.
I’d noted the ostrich emporium for possibly buying souvenirs and meat for the braai.
La suite... dans tes guides préférés
Well, I actually find there’s not much in the paper guides—just a single paragraph on Oudtshoorn and the Swartberg Pass-Meiringspoort route. It’s pretty light! So I appreciate your tips even more [:)]
Hi there!
I’ve got a travel journal that covers Karoo’s Valley of Desolation and Mountain Zebra…
Cederberg
I love it!
Mount Cedar
Karoo… yeah, a 4x4 seems like a good idea, or at least a high-clearance vehicle…
In the park!
On the other hand,
I also love the other route:
Knysna Undermilkwood
And I fell in love with De Hoop.
I know, I’m not helping—I vote for Karoo!
But can someone explain this sudden passion for Marloth Park?
Hmm
The Hell track is an experience depending on the world’s opinion of this trail and the weather
See one of my travel journals
And then
Accommodation is possible, but be careful if nothing has changed
Bring your own food!
Hi
I’ve got a travel journal that covers Karoo Valley of Desolation and Mountain Zebra…
Hi Michel,
I’ll go read that—it’s my current obsession to reread travel journals.
Karoo… yes, a 4x4 seems like a good idea, or at least something with high ground clearance…
Would an SUV work, or isn’t it enough?
I also love the other route—Knysna and the Undermilkwood forest.
And I fell in love with De Hoop.
I know, I’m not helping.
We’ll head to Knysna after the Karoo. But it’s De Hoop or the Karoo.
Since we live by the ocean, the Karoo wins! It’ll be more of a change of scenery, even if the Charente-Maritime coast doesn’t have much in common with the South African coasts.
I vote Karoo!
Sounds good then :)
But can someone explain this sudden passion for Marloth Park?
Here’s the deal: a super comfortable house for just over 100 € per night before facing the Spartan chalets in Kruger at nearly 200 €.
I just felt like it.
Hmm
Hell is an experience depending on who you ask about that track and the weather
See one of my travel journals
And also
Accommodation is possible but be careful if nothing has changed
Bring your own food !
We won’t be sleeping in Hell!
We’ll see if we have the right vehicle just to take a drive there
From what I remember
A Hilux-style 4x2 SUV was enough with basic weather conditions
My best black rhino spot
Fingers crossed for you
Staying inside the park is my advice
Let me know what you think of Marloth
In my memory
A Hilux-style 4x2 SUV was enough with basic weather conditions
My best black rhino spot
I’m crossing my fingers for you
Staying in the park is my advice
Thanks Michel!
I do plan to book a cottage in the park. I’m just trying to find out beforehand if there’s any heating, even just a space heater. So far, I haven’t gotten an answer.
I’m just back from the Eastern Cape, so this is a bit off-topic from my post title, but I’ve got an urgent question about Hlane.
Originally, we were supposed to take a domestic flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg to get to Kruger, but the urge to go back to St. Lucia and iSimangaliso is just too strong. So I’ve rejigged the itinerary to squeeze that in! Since we’ll be heading to Kruger afterward, a stop in Eswatini is pretty much a must. But when I looked at accommodation options and availability, I was surprised—nothing left at Mlilwane and only 3 rondavels at Hlane. At least that saves me from having to choose between the two parks, but I think I’d better book soon.
So here’s the question: Is Hlane worth it for a one-night stop? I’ve read mixed reviews (some good ones too) saying the enclosures are small, it feels like a zoo, and without a guided tour, you only get access to a tiny part of the park.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts! [:)]
PS: Don’t waste your time suggesting Mkhaya—the open-air rooms aren’t for me (afraid of the cold and critters getting in).
I’ve been there several times, and this year it’s my stop between Kruger and Isimangaliso.
Seeing rhinos just a few meters away from your seat…
It’s true that only the rhino tour is really worth it—rhinos just a few meters away, on foot.
It’s true that at Mkhaya, there are no windows, but it’s not a big deal: “There’s a small barrier so hyenas can’t get in—they can’t jump!”
Thanks Agnès and Michel for your replies. It’s booked!
I went for the self-catering cottages so I’d have a fridge.
I’d read in your various travel journals, Michel, that you’re a fan of this park. I really like the idea of the no-electricity atmosphere with lantern lighting.
And if we’re guaranteed to see rhinos there, that’s awesome—at Kruger and in the Karoo, there’s no certainty.
I’ve been thinking about how to organize our few days in Cape Town. Like everyone else, I’ve planned a half-day to go up to the top of Table Mountain. But now I’m wondering if it’s really worth it. From experience, high viewpoints often leave us underwhelmed.
We’re also thinking of hiking up Lion’s Head, so wouldn’t that be redundant?
What would your arguments be to convince me to go up to the top of Table Mountain?
I’m planning a trip in October with a few days in Cape Town as well.
I’ve set aside half a day to go up to the top of Table Mountain. But I’m starting to wonder if it’s really worth it.
I asked myself the same thing [;)]
When you add the time spent standing in the queue, I answered my own question: it’ll be Lion’s Head! (Michel’s been convincing me for ages, plus we’re only spending a short time near Cape Town itself, so you’ve got to make choices!)
Right now, it’s just a plan, so I might regret it or change my mind at the last minute.
Si tu diffères de moi, mon frère, loin de me léser, tu m'enrichis (Saint Exupéry)
Get up early in the morning and check if Table Mountain is clear.
Go early (as early as possible) because often the clouds roll in later, and the colors are more beautiful in the morning or evening.
Early because the buses arrive later.
Check if you can currently book tickets to skip the queue...
Parking isn’t always easy... allow some extra time (another reason to arrive early).
Lion's Head
It’s truly a favorite if the weather’s gorgeous...
The climb is doable... for those who are fit.
You walk around the mountain, so you get a 360° view (Cape Town, Table Mountain, Robben Island, the peninsula, Camps Bay) with amazing viewpoints...
Don’t leave anything visible in your car!
Often, the top of Table Mountain is in the clouds while Lion’s Head is clear...
It should always be free...
Again, early is the rule here, but a little less strict...
A bit further, Signal Hill
Noon gun at midday.
Traditional sundowner on Signal Hill...
Three notes:
Possible car break-ins at the base of Lion’s Head (rare).
Assaults during the hikes to the summit and tricky climbing situations...
It’s best to go in a group, be in good shape, and I’d recommend a guide!
Assaults reported if walking from Bo-Kaap to Signal Hill or vice versa.
Don’t worry too much—these "assaults" are rare, but any local will tell you to stay alert...
I’m planning a trip in October with a few days in Cape Town as well.
I asked myself the same question [;)]
That’s reassuring! I’m not the only one from outer space
After factoring in the time spent shuffling in the queue, I answered my own question: it’ll be Lion’s Head! (Michel’s convinced me over time with all his talk about it, plus we’re only spending a short time near Cape Town itself, so we have to make choices!)
Even when buying tickets online in advance, it seems the queue for the cable cars is often really long. And like you, we’re only in Cape Town for a short time—just 2 and a half days, with one day dedicated to the peninsula. If we’d stayed longer, I wouldn’t have hesitated.
For Lion’s Head, I have no doubts. It seems less time-consuming, really beautiful, and it’s free!
Thanks for the detailed rundown, Michel.
I’m not completely ruling out Table Mountain [;)]
Not very reassuring though, your warnings about muggings on Lion’s Head. I’d read that loads of tourists do that hike, so I figured it’d be pretty safe given how busy the trail can get.
I really liked Table Mountain.
But that was a long time ago.
No queue for the cable car to go up, a beautiful day, and not too many people at the top either.
I didn’t go to the two other viewpoints.
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Assaults don’t happen on Lion’s Head but on the hiking trails leading to the top of Table Mountain (it’s actually clearly indicated on the Sanparks website).
Lion’s Head is more about the parking lot where you need to take the usual precautions.
And avoid walking to Bo-Kaap Signal Hill.
We’re far from calling it dangerous—I’m just saying what any South African would tell you...
assaults don’t happen on Lion’s Head but on the hiking trails leading to the top of Table Mountain (it’s actually clearly indicated on the Sanparks website)
Okay, sorry, I misunderstood. Yeah, for the Table Mountain hiking trail, I knew that—it’s mentioned all over the websites and blogs.
For the car, we apply the usual precautions everywhere, including in France! Never leave anything visible.
I’ve only been to Cape Town once!
A really long time ago...
I’ve taken flights to Cape Town since then, but never stopped in the city.
Straight into the green!
I’m not really a city person.
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Our two flights arrive at night in Cape Town and Durban. In Cape Town, we should exit the airport around 7:30/8:00 PM, and in Durban around 9:00 PM.
It’s not super late, but it’ll be dark.
In Cape Town, we’ve booked accommodation north of Hout Bay. In Durban, I haven’t booked anything yet.
Is it sketchy to drive at those times? In Cape Town, there should still be quite a bit of traffic at 8:00 PM, so I’m not too worried, but in Durban at 9:00 PM, I’m not feeling great about it. Would it be better to take a taxi and pick up the car at the airport the next day?
The closest place to sleep in Durban seems to be Ballito, since we’re heading to St. Lucia the next day. Do you have any accommodation or neighborhood recommendations?
At night, it's not necessarily because of human danger but mainly because of animals that might wander onto the road.
I’d head to the booked accommodation in Cape Town, and for Durban, I’d choose a place to stay no more than about ten kilometers from the airport (picking up the rental car right away).
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Thanks for your reassuring message, Agnès.
Actually, I kinda panicked for no good reason
Yesterday I read stories about people getting scammed by fake municipal agents and fake cops, and another victim of carjacking.
Since we avoided cities on our first trip, I’m struggling to gauge how dangerous it is to drive at night compared to that.
No one is immune to bad luck, but there are still plenty of people who land in Durban.
If everyone were having problems, there’d be a warning on the French government’s travel advice website.
But there isn’t.
For Durban:
In Durban:
Victoria Quay, underground passages of the Workshop Shopping Centre and the Victoria Embankment, Point Road, the immediate surroundings of the Wheel Shopping Complex and the port.
Be cautious at all times on the waterfront.
I’m not saying you shouldn’t stay alert, but no need for paranoia either! 😊
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For one thing, Durban’s bad reputation is partly because Western travelers don’t come to this country for what it offers—like certain neighborhoods that remind you of San Francisco and one of the world’s largest aquariums, right on the coast.
I’ve got a few buddies out there who tell us about it when they come to chill… in the Karoo.
But most importantly, the new airport is *very* far from the city. You *could* drive up to Ballito, but there are also hotels along the coast just south of the airport, where a taxi could take you. The extra cost might even be covered by what you’d save on a rental car. Plus, waking up to the Indian Ocean? Priceless. [:)]
Hi there,
Durban is often seen as unsafe by South Africans who don’t live there (much like the Eastern Cape, which is always labeled as a dangerous area...).
Almost all the problem stories I’ve heard about happened...in Joburg, downtown Cape Town, and Durban—especially the city center and the beach areas.
Voyajou is absolutely right to point out that the airport is pretty far from Durban...
Hi there, I was browsing the forum and came across the question:
"But if anyone can explain this sudden passion for Marloth Park?"
For me, it was a few years ago—I was leaving Kruger and wanted to get closer to the Mozambique border. I found this place while searching on Google Maps, cheap accommodation, and I was charmed by the spot. Now, every time I go to Kruger, I stop by there.
You’ll find giraffes, zebras, ostriches, and gazelles roaming freely alongside pedestrians. Predators also show up, and Marloth Park’s Facebook page posts alerts about them. There’s a really nice restaurant and a butcher shop where trophies line the walls—I ate the best Christmas cake there, super rich in calories. Last year, I camped for three nights by the Crocodile River. The park is on the other side, and you can see animals passing by. One year, a big cat was wandering around. Retired South Africans set up camp for the month and just observe.
You can walk around on foot and watch the animals. In short, I love Marloth Park.
I also like De Hoop, but my favorite spot is near Coffee Bay.
It still won’t be this year that we’ll get to know Marloth Park!
I just canceled in favor of a night in Biyamiti. A cottage became available, so I jumped on the opportunity. The call of the bush and the desire to be in the heart of Kruger were stronger than the comfort of Marloth’s pretty house.
Besides, at the price SANParks sells its basic-comfort cottages in the Bushveld camps (though this one does have a river view), the call of the bush really has to be strong
Besides, at the price SANParks sells its cottages with basic comfort in the Bushveld camps
???
I was intrigued by this sentence, so I went to check the price.
From 114 € per night for accommodation. I don’t think that’s very expensive?
I don’t feel like it’s increased much compared to before, and especially compared to other countries.
The entrance fee to Kruger, on the other hand, has really shot up...[;)]
I also don’t understand what they mean by "basic comfort"?
It’s vintage, sure, but it has everything you need. It’s even paradise compared to most of the rooms I stayed in during my last trip to the USA for a price that was often higher.
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Actually, my comment is about the accommodation I had initially booked in Marloth Park. A really lovely and fully equipped house for 115 € per night. In Biyamiti, the cottage for 4 people costs over 200 €, and it’s clearly lower in terms of quality.
It’s not that it’s not good, it’s just that it’s not as nice but more expensive.
On the other hand, I think the Marloth Park house (Wild Whispers) is really a great deal for what it is… but it’s not inside Kruger.
Regarding the entrance fee for Kruger and the Wildcard price, it’s clear we really felt the increase!
Hi there,
While reading your post, I had exactly the same thought as Attila.
Basic comfort.....?
With everything you’ll find in this accommodation:
Bathroom with shower and toilet,
Outdoor kitchen—all very well-maintained, especially considering you’re right in the bush with an amazing view.
Maybe it’s just us being the problem then [;)]
We must be picky and annoying!
Or maybe we just had bad luck with our SANParks accommodations—aside from Olifants and Talamati, we’ve had places that were poorly maintained (broken window replaced with cardboard, shower leaking everywhere, water cuts…).
That said, the cottages at Olifants and Talamati were great, and we loved the bush camp vibe at Talamati (the same vibe we’re hoping to find at Biyamiti).
I’ve never stayed at Biyamiti, so I can’t judge. I hope you’re all right and we’ll be pleasantly surprised.
Yes, Sanparks accommodations aren’t always the height of modernity or upkeep. You can get unlucky. Personally, I remember a really shabby bungalow at Lower Sabie.
But when a bungalow is fully renovated, the price goes up... (I’d booked one like that at Pretoriuskop)
Overall, though, I have pretty good memories.
My bad accommodation experiences were more about the neighbors than the bedding.
Ending up with a loud French neighbor—what a nightmare!
But that can happen anywhere...
I checked the current prices at Balule.
It’s still unbeatable compared to all the other safari destinations.
The most beautiful place I’ve stayed in Sanparks was Tankwa, closely followed by Agulhas.
For a safari experience, Kiliekrankie in KTP.[:)]
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For us, Golden Gate was where we had the worst accommodation. We stayed at Glen Reenen.
In July, with a thin layer of snow that fell overnight and a hard frost in the morning, our cabin had no extra heating, only one of the three beds had a heated mattress, a broken window with a pane replaced by cardboard, frozen pipes so no water in the morning... It was freezing cold in that place!
The couch was all stained too. But we didn’t use it—we all huddled on the only heated bed to play cards.
We laugh about it now, but at the time it wasn’t super pleasant.
