Il y a quelques semaines, en quittant Mandailles avant de grimper au Puy Mary, j'ai tapé la discute avec deux gars qui faisaient les marchés. L'un, un franco-mexicain au look de Pancho Villa, vendait de l'ail de provence, l'autre, un jeune gars dans la trentaine, fabriquait des bijoux.
Eux même vivant chacun à bord de leur camionnette diesel mercedes, nous avons naturellement beaucoup parlé de voyage sous toutes ses formes.
A un moment, Pancho Villa me parle d'un voyageur à vélo qu'il avait rencontré il y a 5 ou 6 ans.
— Le gars voyage avec 6 ou 7 chiens
— C'est pas possible !
— J'te jure. Attend, je dois encore avoir les photos.
Et il part farfouiller dans sa tanière à roulette et revient avec une pile de photo. Je n'en croyais pas mes yeux. Il ne déconnait vraiment pas.
— Tu veux que je t'en donne une ?
— Mais non, je ne le connais pas ce gars et ces photos ont certainement plus d'importance pour toi.
— Mais si, vas-y. Prend en une. Tien, celle là?
Le plus jeune ajoute:
— En plus tu dois encore avoir les négatif pour en refaire ?
— Mais oui j'ai les négatifs. Prends-en une. Vas-y.
Et là j'ai commencé à les regarder mieux pour en choisir une. C'est finalement en pensant à vous tous ici que je l'ai choisi car mon Pancho il ne connaissait même pas le nom de ce voyageur qui l'avait tant ému par son amour des chiens.
J'ai donc pensé la prendre pour la numériser et vous la soumettre en espérant que quelqu'un ici sait de qui il s'agit et ce qu'il est devenu. Je joint la photo à ce billet. Elle fait environ 1, 4Mo. Soyez patient, ça vaut le coup.
Si quelqu'un snait de qui il s'agit ou ce qu'il est devenu -il pédalait ainsi déjà depuis plusieurs années apparemment - je serais très heureux d'en apprendre davantage sur ce personnage. La photo a donc été prise il y a environ 5 ans.
Amitiés
Darryl
Note: La photo montre le voyageur inconnu enfourchant son triporteur sur lequel il a adapté un habitat à deux étages fait de madriers et de contreplaqué. On distingue 3 chiens de bonne taille sur le pont inférieur et 2 chiens sur le pont supérieur. Il y en avait apparemment 1 ou 2 de plus qui font les ici les timides. Sur le côté de la maison, il y a un petit réceptacle pour les gens qui voulaient aider financièrement ce voyageur. Le panneau sur le côté dit: "J'aime les animaux. Ils étaient abanndonné. Moi, je les ai adoptés" (sic).
Merci pour la photo, sacré mec encore souple en plus de ça... Fou ? Je ne sais pas, il a l'air plutôt original qu'autre chose ! En plus son mépris de l'argent - il semble qu'il a collé des pièces sur l'un des montants de sa caisse magique - et son amour des bêtes le rendent plutôt sympathique...
à la base c'était surement un tandem, vu la longueur du convoi ! et puis il à du goût car c'est joliment fait sa charrette.
ce que je trouve de super c'est qu'à toutes les époques ont trouve un peu partout des originaux qui vivent en marge de nos repères...et des fois ça fait avancer le monde....rappeler vous les premiers qui essayaient de voler ! certain avaient un look d'enfer pour l'époque...!!! 😏 que devaient penser leur entourage ?
Et bien ce mec là, moi je dis qu'il fait parti de ses inventeurs géniaux, et que quand il n'y aura plus de pétrole peut-être qu'on reprendra la base de son invention pour nous fabriquer des genres de tandem habitables pour trimbaler nos familles ! 😉
en tous les cas merci pour ton post, sa fait passer un bon moment
et bonne route pour la suite,
tiens une dernière reflexion, il faut une sacré maitrise du vélos et un sacré équilibre car quand il roule si les chiens du balcon bougenet j'te raconte pas les zig zag et comme ça doit être casse geule !!!
Je profite de cette seconde réflexion pour ré"pondre à tes deux messages.
Je te corrige tout de suite sur le tandem. Il s'agit en fait d'une trycycle. Donc pas de problème d'équilibre. En revanche si tu regardes bien le vélo, la partie sur laquelle lui est assis, on dirait bien un vélo normal auquel il aurait greffé une plate-forme à deux roues au lieu de tirer une remorque. Je peux me tromper mais c'est l'impression que ça me laisse car il n'y a pas de barre horizontale qui part de l'arrière de son siège vers un éventuel ancien second siège.
De plus, si c'est vraiment ce qu'il a fait, il a été obligé de concevoir un système à double chaine pour entrainer les deux roues arrières. À ce qu'il parait, toujours selon mon Pancho Villa, le plus gros problème qu'il avait, celui qui était le plus récurrent etait le bris des chaîne. Tu imagines le bordel à chaque fois pour réparer ?
Et pour en revenir à ta première réflexion, tu as complètement raison. Des gens comme ça, qui dans tous les domaines font exploser les limites de ce qui semble raisonnable aux yeux de tous, sont des gens précieux.
En te lisant, il m'est revenu à la mémoire un hurluberlu de ce genre dont j'ai complètement oublié le nom mais qui avait gravé à jamis, en une seule soirée, dans ma tête de gamin de 6 ou 7 ans, l'évidence de ce genre de vie.
Mon père m'avait amené à une soirée chez des amis ou on y recevait un ramoineur itinérant. Le gars, un gaspésien dont je n'ai évidemment pas retenu le nom, était parti de Gaspé à pied en poussant son chariot de ramoneur, une grosse boîte en bois qu'il poussait comme une brouette. Le soir où je l'ai vu, nous étions dans la région de Lanaudière. Il finançait son mode de vie en faisant des ramonage (hey ho! Les esprits détournés! Il n'est ici question que de chemineé hein? Des vraies, des cheminées de maison 😇). Outre son nom, je n'ai jamais oublié ce gars qui a été très important dans le développement de mon amour du voyage.
J'ai eu la même et j'ai toujours la même réaction que toi. Je trouve toujours ça hallucinant. C'est vrai que son montage semble défier toute les lois du bon sens et qu'un autre bricoeur aurait pu faire plus simple, moins difficile à gérer et probablement plus léger. Mais est-ce que ça aurait été aussi hallucinant ? va savoir?
Teins je t'en présente un autre. Il passait dans le coin il y a une semaine. Il n'est pas à vélo mais il roule à pile. Il combat la mort par le voyage et ses deux chiens l'accompagnent. Lui aussi, il s'appelle Alain Cocq, se traine une sacré caravane.
Il est sur les routes en ce moment et si vous avez la possibilité de l'heberger une nuit ou de les inviter à bouffer lui et ses toutou, je suis persuadé que vous en retirerez beaucoup plus que ce que vous aurez eu à donner. Encore un autre dont j'ai entendu parler mais que je n'ai pu rencontrer mais je le guette...
Et moi j'essais toutes les combinaisons de mots clés dans gougueule en anglais et en français mais sans succès. Tu saurais pas un peu de néerlandais pour essayer de ton côté?
j'avais pas vu effectivement c'est un trycycle !! malgré tout quand les toutous doivent remuer ensemble ça doit quand même un peu tanguer...
pour les chaines tu as raison qu'elle bordel pour réparer mais je pense que malin comme il a l'air, il y a surement une astuce...
Ton ramoneur de Gaspé !!! excellent !! tu connais mieux que moi j'imagine ! alors depuis Gaspé à pied juqu'à la région de Lanaudière et surement plus loin après, faut le faire !! de plus y a pas une maison tout les dix mètres...
J'adore ce genre de furieux ! 😉 et ça me viens en mémoire une citation excellente que j'ai lu qlq part sur ce forum :
" heureux les félés qui laissent passer la lumière " je la trouve vraiment de circonstance
Ta citation est en signature de notre Françonet national. Mais fait attention, cet individu est dangereux. Il faisait de si beaux vélos que certains (moi) n'en reviennent jamais.
En Hollande, il existe un nombre important de triporteur avec caisse avant ou arrière . Il semblerait que celui si soit avec caisse arrière .Le triporteur en Hollande étant une institution nationale il est possible d'en trouver autant de modèle que l'on veut .
je fus navigateur navigaterre , je reste navigaterre.
Qu'importe d'où nous venons, car nous pouvons aller beaucoup plus loin que ce dont nous avions révé .
Il y a en Hollande de nombreux fabricant de vélos utilitaires, il est pratiquement possible de faire ce que l'on veux sur des bases industrielles.
je fus navigateur navigaterre , je reste navigaterre.
Qu'importe d'où nous venons, car nous pouvons aller beaucoup plus loin que ce dont nous avions révé .
Par contre, je me méfie également et autant des gens qui se croient plus fous, plus dingues que les autres.
Fou ou pas, j'aime bien les gens qui dans l'action sont en accord avec eux-mêmes. Ce sont le plus souvent ces gens qui trouvent normal et banal de traîner 7 chiens sur un triporteur à pédale, de se ballader en camion pour aller jouer du piano à queue (et en queue de pie) dans les savanes africaines, ... Ils ne diront jamais d'eux-mêmes qu'ils sont dingues.
Donc, si quelqu'un se dit "normal", il peut s'avérer intéressant de s'assurer de la véracité de l'affirmation 😉
La question est dans le titre. Si toutefois des cyclos-campeurs empruntaient cette route (quelle qu'elle soit), ce serai bien sympa de se connaître et…
Hé hé!!! Après « Qui part ou » et « Qui part quand », je propose: Qui est ou??? Une page spécialement dédiée au positionnement géographique de chacun d’entre…
Voyageurs bonjour! Tout est dans le titre en fait... Nous sommes actuellement en Equateur (tandem + remorque pour notre fils de 3 ans), et je voulais savoir…
Voyager à vélo › Autriche / France › Est · 10 replies
Fort de mon expérience de l'année passée de Nevers (Nièvre) à Pralognan-la-Vanoise (Alpes, près de Courchevel) en vélo, cette année je remet le couvert! ^^ Je…
Je cherche des infos sur un post que j'avais lu, mais je ne parviens pas à remettre la main dessus: J'aurai voulu avoir des infos sur un des plus grand tour du…
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food
I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics
Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads
The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route
I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.