Hi fellow travelers,

We’ll be in Marrakech for 10 days in February (couple + 12-year-old child). We’d like to spend 3-4 days in Essaouira.

What’s the easiest and most budget-friendly way to make the Marrakech-Essaouira trip and then Essaouira-Marrakech (straight to the airport, I think) a few days later? Taxi? Bus? Or just rent a car? But then what do we do with the car while we’re in Essaouira? Could it be useful for exploring interesting sites outside the city while we’re there?

Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi there, I’d like to go to Mirleft from Essaouira by bus. Could anyone tell me about the bus schedules for the trip there and back? Are there any other affordable transport options (shared taxi, maybe)? Thanks for your help! Have a great day

Hi everyone, I know there are some *reaaaal* Morocco experts here, so I’m giving it a shot. Early June, we’re heading back to the country for the third time for a little week-long trip. We’ll arrive and depart from Essaouira, where we’ll rent a car to drive south down to roughly Sidi Ifni. The plan is to make short stops of 2-3 hours max, a mix of coastal spots and a bit inland. We’re looking for natural, quiet places that feel untouched. We loved Taghazout years ago and Larache two years back—just to give you an idea of our vibe. What spots would you recommend along this route? I’m tempted by Paradise Valley but worried it’ll be as crowded as Agadir. What do you think? Any other valleys in the area worth the detour? Thanks, and have a great weekend! 😊

Bonjour a ceux qui nous lisez.

Nous somme un couple de petits voyageurs du globe. Stessy et Rollon

Ayant déjà connu le maroc et ses divers trésors lors de précedents voyages, nous aimerions pousser un peu plus loin sur la côte Sud à partir d'ESSAOUIRA jusqu'à AGADIR.

Ne voulant volontairement pas faire trop de route, nous avons décidé de profiter un maximum du littoral entre ces deux villes et de louer une habitation proche de la plage.

Si possible il est, nous serions ravis de savoir quels jolis coins nous attendent par la bas. Et si possible il est, nous souhaitons privilegier les "jolis coins tranquilles", belles plages désertes...

Si vous avez une quelconque information s'avérant utile pour cette nouvelle experience, nous vous en serions plus que gré. Reconnaissants.

Départ prévu: le 14 fevrier prochain pour deux semaines! Arrivée/Départ: MARRAKECH en raison d'un mariage. Type de transport: ligne de Bus

Hate !

Rollon et Stessy

Actuellement nous manquons cruellement de soleil dans l'ouest atlantique. Aussi avons nous décidé de mettre le cap sur le Maroc, toujours sur l'Atlantique, au sud d'Essaouira. Atterrissage prévu à Marrakech et départ aussitôt pour Essaouira pour profiter de la mer et descendre tranquillement le long de la côte. Lézarder au soleil, traîner en terrasse prendre le temps de savourer chaque instant. Si vous avez des idées de visites intéressantes à faire et de découvertes à partager, on est preneurs. On compte sur vous. Merci beaucoup.

Ou trouver des cartes 3 G à Essaouira ? Waze est-il le mieux adapté pour le Maroc ? Nous partons demain avec Ryanair . Y-a-t'il des spectacles autour d'Agadir . Nous revenons le 24 Février . Merci d'avance pour vos réponses. Christian.

Bonjour à vous tous,

Nous serons au Maroc en décembre.

circuit: Tanger - Chefchaouen - Fes - Midelt - merzouga - skoura - Ait Ben Haddou - Marrakech - Agadir - Essaouira

Besoin de plusieurs suggestions dans ces villes ou environs:

1- Quelle coopérative d'huile d'Argan visiter? Il semble y en avoir plusieurs et je ne sais pas sur quel critère choisir.

2- Où voir des mouflons exactement? Mon garçon a une fixation sur les mouflons

3- Un hammam que vous avez essayé et que vous recommander avec des enfants?

4- Que recommanderiez vous pour une soirée mémorable à Marrakech? Nous y serons le 24 et 25 décembre, ils ne fêtent pas Noel... mais nous oui! Donc nous cherchons une activité mémorable/insolite/typique/etc pour souligner. Ça pourrait tout aussi bien être un resto qui sort vraiment de l'ordinaire.

5- Le réel temps de route entre les cascades d'Ouzoud et Marrakech! Parfois je lis 1h30 aller, d'autre fois je lis 3 heures!

6- Un endroit pour voir des fossiles de dinosaures (musée)? Encore une fois, pour mon garçon!

Merci beaucoup!!!

Hi! I’m thinking of landing in Agadir, staying for a day, then heading to Tagazout for 3 days, and after that Essaouira. Is it possible by bus, and how long does it take to get to each destination? What’s the temperature like at the end of January? Thanks for your replies! Fanfancom

Bonjour ,

Je retourne une semaine à Essaouira , et je cherche des randonnées pas trop loin à la journée accessible avec une voiture . De plus peut-être que certains routards on des bon plans pour des marchés ou des visites accessible en bus ou en voiture.

Merci d'avance .

Guillaume

Bonjour,

Je souhaiterais passer une nuit dans un camp à la belle étoile entre Essaouira et Marrakech. Merci d’avance pour vos éventuels conseils.

Bonjour. Nous allons à Essaouira la seconde semaine des vacances de noel (réunion familiale) et j’en ai profité pour arriver une semaine plus tôt à Marrakech (famille 3 enfants de 11 a 20 ans). Nous prévoyons 2-3 jours à Marrakech ; que conseillez vous de faire ensuite ? Sachant que l’on est fan de nature et solitude mais la saison semble bof pour la rando. Nous serons en voiture et n’avons pas peur de bouger. Merci.

Hi everyone! :)

I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.

We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).

Here’s my proposed itinerary:

Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight

What do you think?

I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?

Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!

All ears! :)

Thanks in advance and have a great day!

Clément

Bonjour, nous partons du 14 au 24 février avec la ryan air pour Essaouira notre projet:

Essaouira location d'une voiture et départ pour Tamri qui sera notre première étape. jour 2 Taroudant. Jour 3 Tafraout. Jour 4 Tiznit. jour 5 et 6 Sidi Ifni. Jour 7 Agadir. jour 8 vallée du paradis. jour 9 et 10 Essaouira.

Nous avons lu tous les derniers carnets du forum concernant ces destinations et nous avons noté tous vos coups de coeur qui seront sans doute les notres. En ce qui concerne le change faut-il le faire dès notre arrivée à l'aéroport ? Peut -on se servir des euros dans certains endroits ? Cela fait plus de 30 ans que nous ne sommes pas retournés au Maroc, nous allons certainement trouver ce pays complètement différent. Nous avons hâte d'y être en attendant nous lisons vos carnets ainsi que ces magnifiques photos Merci à vous tous et à ce forum qui nous font aussi voyager

christian

Bonjour pouvez vous svp me donner des conseils d'hebergement dans la vallee du paradis, taroudant et Essaouira Pouvez vous svp me donner des conseils de visite sur ce circuit, merci

Hi there, in mid-January my wife and I are leaving from Marrakech heading to the Atlas (Essaouira ==> Dades ==> Merzouga ==> Draa Valley) before finally making our way to Taghazout near Agadir for 2 or 3 days.

The route ends up looking like this, except for the end where we head toward the ocean. https://www.les-covoyageurs.com/ressources/images-produits/photo-produit-29-carte.jpg?v=6

I’m hesitating about renting a car, and since I don’t know the road conditions, I’d like to know if a Dacia Sandero is enough for this kind of trip?

Another thing making me hesitate is the possibility of rain and roads being less passable.

I’m reaching out to more experienced travelers who can share their advice, of course.

Thanks in advance

Bonjour, Du 12 au 24/08/2020 nous serons au Maroc. Nous arrivons le 12 à Marrakech et avons déjà réservé sur Essaouira du 17 au 24 pour faire la côte et profiter de l'océan. Ils nous restent 5 nuits ... le 12 à Marrakech et sans doute le 13 mais que faire jusqu'au 17 ? Aller jusqu'à Merzouga nous attire mais est-ce la bonne saison pour cela, en terme de chaleur notamment... 3 jours suffisent-ils ? Y'a t'il un circuit possible et dépaysant pour relier Essouira pourquoi pas avec étapes et détours... Nous sommes 4 adultes et 1 ado, nous pouvons louer une voiture. Nous sommes ouverts à toutes suggestions, merci infiniment de vos retours.

Hi everyone, we’re renting a small car in Marrakech for an 8-day trip (Marrakech-Essaouira-Marrakech-Ouarzazate-Zagora-Marrakech). Is this doable? Thanks for sharing your experiences...

Hi there,

I’m planning a trip to Morocco, arriving in Marrakech and leaving from Essaouira.

For my itinerary, what do you recommend as a cheap mode of transport: private driver, car rental, train, or taxi?

It’ll be a 5-6 day trip with my husband.

Thanks in advance! Have a great day, Émilie

bonjour à partir d'agadir , je compte faire un circuit vers tafraoute, taroudant, vallée du paradis, Essaouira pouvez vous svp me donner des conseils d'hébergement dans ces villes et des conseils de lieux à ne pas manquer je vous en remercie par avance

As-salamu alaykum!

We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...

Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)

Thanks in advance for your tips!

Mathieu

Hi there, I’m about to take my nephews to Morocco for a week to celebrate their 18th birthdays during the first week of September. I’ve already planned most of it, but I’d love any advice or tips on my itinerary! Thanks in advance to anyone who replies :)

Day 1: Agadir → Essaouira Morning: Crocoparc/cable car/kasbah (I’d considered Paradise Valley, but it seems less great now? Dirty, drought, etc.?) Depart for Essaouira, lunch in Taghazout around 1 PM. Mid-afternoon to evening in Essaouira, overnight there. Visit the medina, walk along the ramparts and fishing port. Sunset from the Skala du Port or the beach. Dinner at one of the seafood restaurants near the port.

Day 2: Essaouira → Marrakech → Agafay Desert Morning: 🔹 Early departure from Essaouira to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Afternoon: Explore Marrakech: 🔹 Jemaa el-Fna Square 🔹 Majorelle Garden Late afternoon: 🔹 At 3 PM, depart for the Agafay Desert (~1 hour) for a camel ride + quad excursion. Evening: 🔹 Dinner and overnight in the desert.

Day 3: Agafay → Marrakech → Ouzoud Morning: 🔹 Return to Marrakech from Agafay at 11 AM. Late morning & early afternoon: Last spots in Marrakech: 🔹 Bahia Palace 🔹 Ben Youssef Madrasa Mid/late afternoon: 🔹 Depart for Ouzoud (~2.5 hours). Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouzoud. Day 4: Ouzoud → Marrakech Morning: 🔹 Visit Ouzoud Waterfalls. Early afternoon: 🔹 Return to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Late afternoon/evening: 🔹 Free time in Marrakech to wander the souks and experience Jemaa el-Fna Square at night with its evening atmosphere. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Marrakech. Day 5: Marrakech → Aït Ben Haddou → Ouarzazate Early morning: 🔹 Depart for Aït Ben Haddou via the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (~3 hours 45 minutes). Midday: 🔹 Visit the Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou. Afternoon: 🔹 Drive to Ouarzazate (~30 minutes), visit the Taourirt Kasbah. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouarzazate. Day 6: Ouarzazate → Agadir Very early departure in the morning. Morning: Visit Agadir’s souk. Afternoon: 🔹 Relax at the hotel pool, jet ski, and overnight stay. Day 7: Agadir Morning off. 🔹 Beach and pool time. Return flight.

Thanks so much!

Hi there, I’m doing a road trip by car this May. I’m starting from Casablanca and have two nights booked in Marrakech, then two nights right after in Ouarzazate. I’d like to head to the Merzouga desert in two days. Which route should I take, and from which city should I start? Also, I need to go to Essaouira afterward. Thanks for your help!

Hi there,

A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:

- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?

Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !

Hello and Happy New Year to everyone!!

We have a little week of vacation from February 1st to 8th and we’d like to return to Morocco. In March 2024, we spent 4 days in Marrakech, 2 nights in the Atlas Mountains, and 1 night in Essaouira. This time, we’re hesitating between spending 3 days in Rabat and 3 days in Fez and the surrounding area (Meknes), or landing in Marrakech again but taking the road to Mergouza via Ouarzazate, the Dadès Gorges, etc. What do you recommend for this time of year? We enjoy both monuments (for the first option) and nature (for the second).

Best regards, Christophe

Grande villa de 8 pièces (160 m2) sur un terrain entièrement clos de 1500 m2 (possibilité de faire une piscine dans le jardin). Idéalement située entre mer et campagne à 60 km au nord d'Essaouira, elle domine l'océan. Elle comprend: - au rez de chaussée : une grande pièce à vivre avec cheminée, ouverte sur la cuisine à l'américaine un salon trois chambres autour d'un patio une salle de bain équipée avec douche et lavabo des toilettes séparées - au premier étage deux grandes pièces (séjour, salon ou chambre) une chambre une salle de bain avec douche et wc Tous les sols sont carrelés, les murs peints de couleurs vives Deux terrasses, au premier étage et au-dessus, dominent l'océan

Bonjour,

Je vais aller passer 10 jours pleins (hors jour d'arrivée et de départ) au Maroc en mai. Au départ de Marseille, en prenant Ryanair, qui propose des vols pas chers arrivant à Essaouira, Fes ou Agadir.

Je souhaite construire un programme, avec certains impératifs : - Passer une nuit et une journée à Casablanca (pour y voir des amis) - Me balader dans le désert (avec un chameau?) - Voir de la chouette Oasis - Voir 2 ou 3 centre villes pour le côté architecture - Avoir quelques belles balades niveaux paysages, dans l'Atlas notamment (les paysages côtiers m'intéressent moins, étant habitué)

...et ne pas faire 5h de route chaque jour - 2h de route de moyenne par jour me parait raisonnable. Je louerai une voiture.

Quel itinéraire raisonnable vous pourriez conseiller? J'ai l'impression que l'arrêt obligatoire à Casablanca perturbe pas mal les plannings des itinéraires que je vois sur internet... Merci d'avance

Morgan

Bonjour, Je ferai un voyage de 26 jours au Maroc du 24/03 au 16/04 prochain...Nous sommes deux et avons loué une voiture pour l'occasion...Notre voyage partira de Casablanca en direction vers Tanger...Fès...Chefchaouen...Merzouga...Ouarzazate...Marrakesh...Agadir...Essaouira et retour à Casablanca...

Mes questions sont les suivantes:

1- Est-il facile de se procurer des dirhams via un réseau de guichet automatique? ou bien devrions-nous avoir la totalité de l'argent nécessaire pour nos dépenses en main dès le départ (faire l'acquisition de nos dirhams à l'aéroport de Casablanca)?

2- Est-ce que l'utilisation des cartes de crédit (Visa et MasterCard) sont acceptés dans la plupart des restaurants et station de service de notre parcours.

Merci de m'informer!

Hello VF friends! We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.

- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area. - Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.

We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.

- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche. - Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights. - Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.

After that, we’ll head east.

We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!

Thanks so much, and happy holidays!

Hi there,

I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’ll be late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was a constant 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.

For southern Morocco, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but for those who’ve been there in early July, did it cause any major issues? Otherwise, I’ll start thinking of another destination.

Here’s the rough itinerary I had in mind, renting a car for the whole trip:

Day 1: Arrival in Marrakech late morning Day 2: Marrakech Day 3: Marrakech -> Aït Ben Haddou -> Ouarzazate Day 4: Ouarzazate -> Vallée des Roses -> Dadès Gorges Day 5: Dadès Gorges -> Tinghir -> Todra Gorges -> Erfoud Day 6: Erfoud -> Merzouga (Erg Chebbi desert) Day 7: Merzouga -> Ouarzazate Day 8: Ouarzazate -> seaside? Agadir or Essaouira Day 9: ?? Day 10: ?? Day 11: Return to Marrakech and flight back late afternoon

Is this schedule too rushed? Does Ouarzazate deserve an extra night? The seaside isn’t a must, as long as we can swim somewhere—pool or lake. We’re planning activities like horseback riding, camel treks, quad biking, and jeep tours.

Thanks for your input

MOROCCO END 2024 / BEGINNING 2025 Off-season, I was lucky enough to negotiate hotel prices. I should also mention that this was for a solo traveler until December 30th. After that, there’ll be three of us! Practical info. Here’s all the info I gathered during my 3-month trip. Cities: TANGIER / CHEFCHAOUEN / FES / MOULAY IDRISS, VOLUBILIS / AZROU / MIDELT / ERRACHIDIA / RISSANI / MERZOUGA / TINGHIR / BOUMLANE DADES, AIT OUGLIF / OUARZAZATE / TALIOUINE / TAROUDANT / TIZNIT / TAFRAOUT / SIDI IFNI, LEGZIRA / AGADIR / ESSAOUIRA / MARRAKECH ///

From there, we’ll be three people. Cities: IMLIL / OUARZAZATE / AGDZ / ZAGORA / AIT BEN HADDOU / MARRAKECH / ESSAOUIRA / CASABLANCA. (Generally, I found that mattresses in Morocco were quite hard. My solution: I put two, even three folded blankets on the mattress to add some softness. Wi-Fi almost never works in the room.)

Tangier: Hôtel Fuentes Petit Socco, Old Medina +212 539 934 669 (For one person, end of October) Upon arrival, 19 € for a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast included. Chefchaouen: Dar Besmellah Av Ibn Askar +212 539 986 489 (For one person, end of October). I don’t recommend it. A small, low-ceilinged room with a window facing a patio. Very dark and damp. Shared bathroom. 9 € Dar Bleu Pearl N° 4 Derb Benyaakoub +212 (0)539 88 28 86. Negotiated on-site to 130 MAD instead of 160 on Booking. Small room, furniture, Wi-Fi, private bathroom. Fes: Riad Alfredo or Riad Rocco—it’s the same place. It’s in a very narrow alley. N° 15 Derb Sidi Kjih or Qjih Talla Sagira +212 662 769 688 (see photos and virtual tour) Negotiated to 13 € on-site; on Booking, it was 16 €. Breakfast included. Atypical Anne room with private bathroom, Wi-Fi. The room is a bit dark. One of the best beds on my trip. Again, this was for a solo traveler off-season (end of October to end of December). Moulay Idriss: Gite El Menzeh (see the map) Negotiated on-site to 14 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 24 €. I also negotiated for dinner—very good and hearty—for 5 € (the manager wanted 20 €). I stayed in the large upstairs room with a double bed, window, and private bathroom, not the tiny windowless rooms downstairs. Azrou: Hôtel des Cèdres Place Mohamed V. (see the map and photos) Negotiated 13 € instead of 16 € on Booking for a room with two small beds and a private bathroom. This hotel is honestly run-down and not worth the price at all. The owner thinks it’s a very classy hotel because of its old reputation! Midelt: Chez Ali, city center (see map) Negotiated to 14 € instead of 17 € on Booking. Room with two beds, bathroom, window, small terrace, and Wi-Fi. Er Rachidia: Hôtel El Fekri. Rue Moulay Abdalah Ben Ali (see map and photos) Couldn’t negotiate on-site—14 €, but on Booking, it was 5 € more! Rissani: Hôtel Restaurant Panorama +212 615 978 445 Well, I’d say skip it. Rooms without windows and shared bathrooms. Or on the terrace, there’s a sort of space with a big bed and a small bed behind a locked iron door with a window and an external bathroom that’s also used by people eating on the terrace. If there are people on the terrace, forget about privacy! Not to mention the internet doesn’t work, and the bed is as hard as a straw mat. All that for 150 MAD—luckily, I didn’t book through Booking, or it would’ve been more expensive!!! I didn’t stay. This closet isn’t even worth 100 MAD—and even that’s too much! A little further on, I went to a hotel where no one spoke English or anything else. I got a large room with 3 beds, a private bathroom, and Wi-Fi for 100 MAD. Merzouga: Said’s apartment +212 618 659 264. No real address—it’s right next to a souvenir shop, far from the center. (see photos) 15 €. The apartment is large with two bedrooms and all the comforts. But for me, it was too far from the village. Chez Belkecem: Marked on GPS. I don’t have any coordinates (see photos). +212 666 911 732 Negotiated on-site to 13 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 2 € more. The room is decorated in a Berber style, with a private bathroom and a window to the outside. The worst breakfast I had in Morocco! Tinghir: Dar Al Medina Av Mohamed V (see map) Beautiful hotel negotiated to 13 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Breakfast included, Wi-Fi, room with a double bed and a single bed, window, and private bathroom. (Top floor) Boumlane Dades: Auberge Tamazirt (no contact) see GPS. Negotiated to 13 € with breakfast. It’s rustic, but I had a private bathroom, a large bed, Wi-Fi, a window, and a double bed. And the best part—the super-friendly owner gave me one of the gas heaters from the hallway. Aït Ouglif: Hôtel Aït Marghad. (See the map) Negotiated to 150 MAD instead of 240 MAD with breakfast. The place was half-closed because it was off-season. Room with a double bed on the ground floor, window, Wi-Fi, and bathroom. Heating provided—essential. The hassle was that there was almost no hot water. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Atlas 13 rue du marché +212 524 887 745 It’s on the pedestrian street. (See photos) Negotiated to 13 €. Old-fashioned room, double bed with a very hard mattress. Private bathroom, window, and Wi-Fi. Taliouine: Hôtel Le Safran. A 20-minute walk from the center—no other choice. Otherwise, there are a few local hotels, but even if I’m not always picky, there are limits. (See the map) Negotiated from 300 MAD to 200 MAD. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, window, king-size bed, private bathroom. The room is large (No. 11). (There’s a pool in the hotel.) Hôtel Atlas Bordeaux: +212 666 752 292 (next to the bus station) Usually, I’m not too picky, but honestly, skip this one. This place could be good because it’s central if: the cleaning was thorough. The bathrooms need to be redone... etc. No sheets—just a sort of blanket on the mattress and another to cover yourself. Obviously not clean. No towel. A bathroom that hasn’t been cleaned in way too long. In short, absolutely avoid. 120 MAD! Taroudant: Hôtel (mini) Atlas Bld Mansour Eddahbi (see map and photos) Double room with window, large bed, private bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great). A hotel that doesn’t look like much but is sparkling clean! 90 MAD for a single, 120 MAD for a double. Tiznit: Résidence Chem (see map) 100 MAD for a room with two single beds (very hard), window, private bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Clean but poorly maintained. Tafraout: Espace Tifawine (see the map). Hotel with a pool. Negotiated to 14 € on-site instead of 30 € on Booking. I could even choose my room. A large room with two beds—one big and one small. A large bathroom, a window, and Wi-Fi. Sidi Ifni: Hôtel Suerte Loca. (No contact, see GPS) I paid 140 MAD for a room in this dive—no negotiation possible. My room had a tiny terrace, the walls were repainted, but it’s super noisy (neighbors). Worse, when someone uses the water, there’s a loud machinery noise. That’s not all—the mattress is really worn out and sagging. The bathroom isn’t great. The Wi-Fi doesn’t work! This place still enjoys its old reputation, but it’s really run-down, and everything is old. The bedding is the worst I had in Morocco. Skip it. There’s much better for cheaper elsewhere! Hôtel La Belle Vue: Just before Suerte Loca +212 528 875 242 The reception staff was more than unfriendly. After seeing the rooms, I didn’t stay because the bedding would’ve been like sleeping on a yoga mat. Obviously not worth the 200 MAD asked for. Hôtel Aït Baamrane. Further down on the beach. Same price as above. The only difference is that everything is in good condition and comfortable, with a warm welcome.

Hôtel Safa: (see the map and photos.) On-site, no negotiation possible—200 MAD; on Booking, it was over 350 MAD. Huge room with all the luxury you could hope for. Breakfast included, large bay window, king-size bed, TV, Wi-Fi, furniture, and of course, a private bathroom. Agadir: Hôtel Kamal (see map) The only hotel I booked through Booking because there was a good discount. Except on-site, the hotel never wanted to give me the discount. At night, small insects that strongly resemble cockroaches—yet it’s high-end with doormen, etc. I contacted Booking, but nothing worked! I paid 250 MAD! Essaouira: Hôtel Elkasbah Souiria (See map and photo) Small room (No. 18) with a single bed and all the comforts. Private bathroom, window, Wi-Fi, and breakfast included (all-you-can-eat buffet). No negotiation possible—200 MAD. Chez Lina: Rue El Khemiset +212 658 042 562 (she speaks French) Large apartment with two bedrooms. Private bathroom on the landing. Wi-Fi. New, so not yet well set up. Far from the center. I paid 15 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Marrakech: Hôtel Atlas 50 rue Sidi Bouloukate +212 661 358 662 Tiny room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom. Wi-Fi, tiny window, very dark and noisy. 12 €

On December 31st, I’m joined by friends. The rooms will be for three people. Marrakech: Hôtel Agnaou 10 avenue or passage Moulay Rachid. +212 705 306 275. Negotiated on-site to 28 € for a room with a window to the outside and a private bathroom. Wi-Fi. Riad Todos: in the old medina +34 643 480 502 Watch out for extra taxes they might try to charge you. No heating. This place could be nice if better maintained. Bad smell of cat urine. Water leak in the bathroom. Wall crumbling from humidity. However, the reception staff is warm and tries to satisfy you. 120 MAD booked on Airbnb! Imlil: Auberge de la Vallée (see map) Large room with 4 beds. All comforts. Private bathroom, heating, Wi-Fi, and breakfast. Negotiated on-site to 300 MAD for three people. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Iazal: Av. Moulay Abdellah +212 524 886 187 (see photos) Very expensive for this hotel. Small room for 3 with a tiny, impractical bathroom. Heating, Wi-Fi, window. The showerhead is placed between the tiny sink and the toilet. The small space floods quickly. Far from the pedestrian center. No negotiation possible—350 MAD for three. Agdz: Guesthouse Le Chant des Palmiers. (See map) Very nice room—more like a small apartment with a fireplace corner, gas heating, private bathroom, Wi-Fi, windows, bedroom area plus two single beds. Breakfast included. Negotiated to 400 MAD for 3 people instead of 840 MAD on Booking. Zagora: Hôtel La Palmeraie. (See map) Room with bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great), heating, and window. Breakfast included. No negotiation—300 MAD (for 3). Aït Ben Haddou: Auberge La Barraka (see the map) Large, beautiful room with windows, Wi-Fi, heating, bathroom. Breakfast included. Pool. Negotiate a good price—but I didn’t note it down. (Around mid-January) Essaouira: El Kasbah Souiria. (See above) Room for three. Same benefits. No negotiation. 500 MAD. Casablanca: 664, Résidence Clémentine BD Mohamed V, Roches Noires. +33 6681 48002 Large, upscale apartment. Not far from Casa Voyageurs train station. Booked on Booking. 45 € (Last day, January 16th). Upon arrival, the price is always a few euros cheaper than on Booking—except in rare cases. Then, negotiation is possible or not! Prices vary depending on the season.

A few good places (for me) to eat.

Fes: Chez Hakim. (See map) Very good, hearty, and almost cheaper than anywhere else in the medina. Ouarzazate: Pasto wood-fired oven Place Al-Mouahidine +212 696 484 281 It had been a long time since I’d eaten such a good pizza (better than in most restaurants in France). At a price that beats all competition! Midelt: Berber Restaurant. (See map and photos) A dive that doesn’t look like much but is delicious at a more than affordable price. Marrakech: Dar EL WALIDIN Raid laahrouse, Rte Sidi Abdelaziz +212 653 493 637 Great selection, good food, and also cheap!

(At Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Under the warm welcome at restaurant « Chez Ali N° 65 », we got scammed out of 7 € when paying the bill! Experts at swindling.) Azrou: Snack La Forêt (see map) Again, good food at a low price. Merzouga: Snack Alafrah VOLUBILIS: The price has gone up to 100 MAD. Honestly, if you’re not an archaeology buff, it’s not worth it! BANKS: The best exchange rate I got was at BMCI. For ATMs, I paid the least fees at Banque Populaire. TRANSPORTATION:

Airport taxi Tangier to Petit Socco: 100 MAD Train: Fes to Meknès Al Amir: 35 MAD Casablanca to Airport: 60 MAD

Grand Taxis: (Shared taxi for 7 people that only leaves when full. I never waited more than 15 minutes to leave. There’s good turnover, and the vehicles are in good condition. They go faster than buses and are almost always cheaper. Prices are fixed, and you don’t pay the driver but the station chief!)

Meknès to Moulay Idriss: 12 MAD Moulay Idriss to Azrou: 35 MAD Midelt to Errachidia: 60 MAD Errachidia to Rissani: 40 MAD (I preferred this option rather than leaving at night or very early in the morning from Errachidia to Merzouga with Supratour, the only company that goes to Merzouga.) Rissani to Merzouga: 15 MAD Taliouine to Taroudant: 45 MAD (The bus is cheaper but takes longer) Taroudant to Inezgane: 35 MAD (Agadir suburb) I connected directly to Tiznit. Inezgane to Tiznit: 35 MAD Tiznit to Tafraout: 45 MAD (2-hour trip) Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: 35 MAD Agadir to Essaouira: 100 MAD Essaouira to Marrakech: 100 MAD Imlil to Marrakech: 35 MAD Grand taxi for three to Imlil: 220 MAD BUS: Tangier to Chefchaouen: 65 + 5 MAD baggage CTM Chefchaouen to Fes: 135 + 5 MAD CTM Azrou to Midelt: 50 MAD local bus Merzouga to Tinghir: 110 + 5 MAD Supratour Tinghir to Boumlane Dades: 30 + 5 MAD Supratour Boumlane Dades to Ouarzazate: 30 MAD minibus Ouarzazate to Taliouine: 60 MAD Satas company Sidi Ifni to Agadir: 95 + 5 MAD CTM Agadir to Essaouira: 70 MAD Trans Al Yamama Essaouira to Marrakech: 65 MAD Argana company Marrakech to Essaouira: 60 + 5 MAD Virago Mogador company Essaouira to Casablanca: 100 + 5 MAD

Sidi Ifni: To go to Legzira, there are green shared buses that leave every 2 hours for 6 MAD. Petit Taxis: You have to negotiate hard—the price can double. Example: In Fes, they asked me for 50 MAD from the bus station to the Blue Gate. By walking a bit further and being patient, I got a taxi for 20 MAD! Another example: From Agadir’s bus station, they asked for 40 MAD to go to Hôtel Kamal. In the end, I paid 15 MAD! Here’s all the practical info I gathered during my trip to Morocco from late October to mid-January. It’s up to you to see if it’s useful or not.