Hi everyone, I’m starting to plan my next trip to Southeast Asia this winter (2.5 months, leaving in early December), and here’s a rough outline of my route—I’d love to share it with you and hear your thoughts and tips.

- I’ll start in Bangkok and already have three spots I’ve marked: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, and Uthai Thani (I haven’t been to any of these places yet). - Next, I’d like to cross the country from west to east to reach the Laos border. I’d love suggestions for any interesting stops along this route—I don’t know this part of Thailand at all... - Then I’ll head into Laos, probably at Savannakhet (you can usually get a visa at the border). - > I’m tempted to spend a week in Hoi An, Vietnam, since I loved that city and the area when I visited two years ago. No visa needed for Vietnam now, so it could be a nice little detour. On the map, it doesn’t look too far, but I know you’ve got to be careful with these things, and I’m not sure if it’s a good idea. Any opinions on this? - Back to Laos (maybe via Dakta), and I’ll head south along the Mekong, probably doing the Bolaven Plateau loop that I missed last time. Then Paksé, the 4,000 Islands... I’ve been before, but I’d happily go back. - Crossing into Cambodia, I’ll follow the Mekong down to Phnom Penh (I know this area and love how untouristy it is). From there, I’ll probably spend a few days in Kep (quieter than Kampot). Still undecided, though. - Then back to Thailand (BKK), likely by plane from Phnom Penh since the borders between the two countries are currently closed (plus, let’s be honest, Cambodian roads... ;-). We’ll see how things look when the time comes. - After that, I’d like to explore southern Thailand, taking it slow with short hops. I’ve got my eye on Khao Sok National Park, and I’ve heard good things about Krabi... Again, I don’t know this region well, so any info or tips would be great.

So, I think this should be doable in 2.5 months, especially since I prefer short hops of 300 km max to avoid getting too tired, and I like staying 2-3 days in each place to explore. Plus, I’ll take a week off to relax if I find a spot I love—maybe by the sea for some real downtime.

Thanks for your feedback and for sharing your favorite spots! Pascal

Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Laos in November 2025. I’m not really sure what to visit. I’ve heard there are local festivals around that time. Open to any suggestions for planning my trip. There’ll be 4 or 5 of us. Best,

Hi there,

I’m looking for a beach spot within 3 hours max of Bangkok for the end of my trip (January). I know full well I won’t find that postcard-perfect vibe of the more remote islands! But I don’t have a choice. If you’ve got any ideas... no high-rises, obviously not Pattaya, somewhere quiet, swimming possible, a hotel right on the beach (and not too dirty, the beach itself!) I’ve looked at hotels around Ko Samet or, across from it, on the mainland. I spotted the Bann Pae Cabana. But nothing really exciting on either side. New ideas welcome! 🙂

Hi there, I’m so glad the VoyageForum is back up. Reading 'Montagnard74’s' Laos trip report (which I read yesterday) made me want to share my own (which I already posted a year ago on another forum). Here’s a little recap of our 3 weeks in northern Laos, plus a few days in Vientiane. By the way, we could easily go back to the north—there’s so much to see and do; probably in a few years.

This was our 3rd trip to Laos after having already done:

1st trip in 2012 (3 weeks), a quick overview: Vientiane Vang Vieng Luang Prabang Plain of Jars

2nd trip in 2017 (1 month): Vientiane all the way to the 4,000 Islands via Thakhek, Kong Lor, the Bolaven Plateau, Savannakhet, Pakse...

Our 2023 itinerary (1 month): Vientiane Luang Prabang Muang Ngoi Nong Khiew Luang Namtha Muang Sing Boten Vang Vieng Vientiane

Some general info (2023): For those who’ve already been to Laos: everything has gone up a lot—I think prices have almost doubled for transport, accommodation, meals... everything. But Laos is still a budget-friendly country for us. As a couple, we spent 1,100 € for a month, all included (and we definitely didn’t skimp on massages :)).

Don’t trust the transport signs posted everywhere—at travel agencies, bus terminals, hotels... THEY’RE ALL WRONG (especially the schedules). They haven’t been updated since before Covid.

There are hardly any bikes for rent anymore, but scooters are easy to find everywhere. We switched our mode of transport toward the end of our stay: from bikes to scooters, which let us go farther. In Vientiane, we only saw one bike rental place, near Ong Teu Pagoda.

BCEL bank doesn’t charge a commission on foreign currency exchanges. Using ATMs is expensive due to fees. Outside Laos, Lao kip are basically worthless. There’s so much inflation that I couldn’t find a single bank or exchange office willing to swap the kip we had left. So, don’t exchange too much toward the end of your trip.

Some little tips from our experience (2023): The Muang Koua to Muang Ngoi boat still runs daily. At the dam, you have to get off and take a bus, then get back on the boat.

The boat from Muang Ngoi to Nong Khiew only leaves at 9:30 AM (don’t miss it or you’ll pay a lot for a private boat). From Nong Khiew to Muang Ngoi, there are at least two boats a day.

From Luang Namtha to Muang Sing: 4 to 5 buses a day, the last one leaves around 3:30 PM.

From Luang Namtha or Muang Sing to Nateuy or Boten (to catch the new train): 3 to 5 buses a day.

The new train is really hard to book—it’s often fully booked 48 hours in advance, even the local train (5 hours from Boten to Vientiane instead of 3 hours on the high-speed train). (That makes it tough to travel day by day, which we love... too bad.) For baggage checks: don’t bring anything flammable (sprays...) or sharp. My mosquito repellent (flammable but in a small plastic bottle) got through. Water bottles and a tiny pocketknife are okay. But it seems to depend on the station.

Some guesthouses prefer to be paid in dollars, otherwise the price is much higher.

If you’re entering Laos from Vietnam via Dien Bien Phu, you have to get your visa at the embassy in Hanoi—otherwise, you’ll be refused at the border (no e-visa or visa on arrival).

Apart from Luang Prabang, Vientiane, and Muang Ngoi/Nong Khiew, there are very few tourists.

Some bus prices (in addition to those mentioned in my trip report) (with pick-up) 2023: Luang Prabang to Luang Namtha: 320,000 kip per person, 9h LP to Phonesavan: 250,000 kip per person, 7h LP to Phongsaly: 450,000 kip per person, 13h LP to Huay Xai: 420,000 kip per person, 14h Train Nateuy to Vientiane: 400,000 kip per person LP to Chiang Rai: 780,000 kip per person, 18h LP to Hanoi: 900,000 kip per person, 24h LP to train station: 50,000 kip per person LP to airport: 100,000 kip per person Vientiane from train station: 180,000 kip by taxi

Boats: LP to Pak Beng: 300,000 kip per person, 1 day LP to Houay Xai: 500,000 kip per person, 2 days LP to Pak Ou: 180,000 kip per person, 5h

Hi there,

I’m about to take a trip around the region in March. According to the "experts," which cities are really worth the detour? My key criteria: a slightly lively downtown + walkable. I’ve already been to the region a few years ago, but my memories are pretty mixed (Ubon Ratchathani, Udon Thani, Khon Kaen).

Thanks😎

Hello,

Departure is fast approaching. The decision is made—we’ll be returning to Laos via the north. We land at BKK at 7:30 AM. Buses to Chiang Rai leave in the evening starting at 5:30 PM. We’ll head straight to Chiang Khong afterward. Now, a lot of questions remain:

What’s the most budget-friendly way to get to Mochit 2 terminal? Can we buy the bus ticket the same day at the terminal, or do we need to book it in advance? So far, all my searches point me to 12GO for reservations. Where can we leave our luggage while waiting for the bus to Chiang Rai? In Chiang Rai, where can we take the bus from Bus Terminal 2 to Bus Terminal 1? Do you know the bus number? On Thailandee.com, the price is 70 THB/person, but on 12GO, the minimum price is 17 €—can you spot the mistake?

Do we need to redo the TDAC when we return to Thailand, or will the departure one still be valid?

Thanks in advance for any info you can share!

hi fellow travelers,

I'm "finalizing" a trip with my adventurous family (wife + 3 kids aged 16, 14, and 8) for this Easter break in Thailand (we'll be there from 04/19 to 05/01).

I'm going through the site and wanted to thank you all for the tips and insights you share on the forum. They're really valuable. But boy, it's tough to sketch out an itinerary

Of course, my backpacking route might be debatable, but I'm trying to target this path to get a first taste of the country's different "facets" and keep everyone in the family happy 😛

For this first trip, we're sticking to the classics and planning to explore a different side of the Land of Smiles in the future:

- arrival in BKK at 4 PM on 04/19 ==> leaving the same day at 7 PM for Chiang Mai (I "hesitated" with the 5:30 PM flight but was worried we wouldn't have enough time to switch from British AW to Thai Airways + airport fees + baggage + customs, etc. )

- from 04/20 to 04/23 ==> Chiang Mai with the main highlights (we've picked: Doi Suthep, Wat Pha Lat, elephant sanctuary, Doi Inthanon, the old city, Wat Chedi, Wat Phra Singh).

==> For the elephant sanctuary: any recommendations? Morning or afternoon visit?

==> It might seem ambitious, but we're considering a day trip to Chiang Rai—though it's not a must. Yes, we know it means ~6 hours of travel in one day.

- direct flight on the morning of 04/24 to Krabi ==> Railay - Phang Nga ==> this part isn't finalized yet (we won't stay in Krabi).

For those who've been there, which part of the south would be best weather-wise during this period?

We'd stay in the south until 04/28 and take a 8 PM flight to BKK.

- BKK on 04/29, 04/30, and part of 05/01 before our flight to London at 11 PM.

We'll hit the must-see/classic spots there.

If you have time to share some insights, I'd really appreciate it.

Thanks a million to everyone!

Hédi.

Hello everyone! :)

Our next trip to Thailand is coming up, and we just can't wait! We talk, eat, drink, and dream Thailand 😏

Our itinerary is mostly set, and we’ve found quite a few new things to explore, but I’d still love to hear your recommendations for Bangkok. Just so you know: we love this city, and every time we visit, we spend several days there without ever feeling like we’ve seen it all. So this year, we’re staying for 8 days! Here’s what we have planned this year: * Exploring Nonthaburi * A day trip to Nakhon Pathom (to test out our basic Thai skills 😛) * Khlong Lat Mayom floating market (we went 10 years ago—it’s probably changed a lot!) * The Erawan Museum (we visited Muang Boran on our last trip) * Finally taking the time to check out Wat Phra Sri Maha Mariamman and Wat Yannawa (we’ve planned to go several times but never made it—are they worth a visit?)

This is what we’ve picked so far, but I’d love to hear about the favorite spots and recommendations from travelers who, like us, adore Bangkok.

Thanks in advance for your help!

Laetitia and Benjamin.

Hello everyone, Not long ago, I used to travel as a couple, but my husband has since passed away, and I’ve decided to set off again. The trip I took to Cambodia in January 2025 did me a world of good. I’m now considering Thailand, a destination we never included in our plans because even 15 years ago, people said it was too touristy. Still, I’m thinking about the itinerary below, but I don’t feel up to arranging buses, trains, or guides on my own while I’m there. I’m looking for one or more drivers and have been in touch with an agency, but their offers are just copy-paste group tours that I don’t want. So, if you have any contacts, experiences, or advice, I’d be so grateful if you’d share them with me. Here’s my rough plan: Arrival in Bangkok Ayutthaya (2 nights) Kanchanaburi (2 or 3 nights) Sangkhlaburi/Sai Yok (3 nights) Sukhothai (2 nights) Lampang (I’ve planned 3 nights, but that might be a bit much—it depends on what time I arrive in the city) Chiang Mai Chiang Dao Pai Chiang Rai I was thinking about the Mae Hong Son loop—thoughts? What do you think about staying overnight at the Golden Triangle? When I look online, of course, I can find agencies that organize tours to national parks, etc. I’m retired but in great physical shape. I’d rather go hiking than sit in hot springs with crowds of tourists who’ve all arranged meet-ups. I don’t want to spend a day at an elephant camp, and I don’t want to visit Karen villages. I’d love to hear your advice. Thank you all,

Hi there, As we’re putting the finishing touches on our travel journal, we could really use your help, please. We’re heading to Thailand in three weeks and will be in Chiang Rai right during the burning season... Will the stunning road between Chiang Rai and Pai still be beautiful? Are the landscapes green like we’d expect at this time of year, or are they dry with gray and brown mountains due to the drought? We were planning to rent a car, but that’s a lot of time we could spend elsewhere if it’s not worth it! Thanks for your help.

Hi, just a quick note mainly for Samsong, even if he’s still giving me the silent treatment. I’ve been in Nan since yesterday and... I love it! So thanks, Thierry. It’s exactly the kind of place I’d been dreaming of... Even if communication is a bit tough, it’s not impossible. They don’t even know the most basic English words! Everyone laughs and they’re the first to pull out their phones to... translate. They’re even quicker on the uptake than I am. And then there’s the time I say Nan (pronounced "Nane"). They don’t understand me. After a while (sometimes a long one), they reply: "Ah, Nan?" (pronounced "Nane") 😵🤳😃

The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...

Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.

Hello,

Our flights are booked, and we’ll arrive in Thailand at the beginning of January.

Originally, we were supposed to spend 14 days there. But after booking the flights and seeing the prices, we’ll now be there for 20 days instead.

Our initial plan was: 2 days in Bangkok 1 day in Ayutthaya 4 days in Chiang Mai 6 days around Krabi

So we have 7 more days to fill. What do you recommend?

An extra day in Bangkok? Adding more days in the north? If so, where? Exploring another region, like Kanchanaburi or Cheow Lan Lake? Traveling north in stages instead of taking the overnight train?

A few extra details about us: For us, vacation isn’t about relaxation—we love walking, exploring, and packed days don’t bother us. Hiking for hours and doing active things is what makes us happy. That said, we also enjoy visiting villages and towns if they’re worth the detour. In Thailand, we’d like to visit temples too. We’re early risers, so our days tend to be long. 🙂 In short, we like to keep things moving during our trips. 😉

Unfortunately, seeing terraced rice fields isn’t possible in January. I read there are rice fields around Sukhothai. Are they green in January?

In the north, do you recommend Doi Inthanon, Huai Nam Dang, or Doi Chiang Dao National Parks? Which one is the most beautiful and best for January?

Hi there, Yesterday in the Thailand section, 100% of the new threads were just about beach destinations 😕... So here’s the counterattack in the form of this photo thread, dedicated solely to the countryside: the locals, their livestock, fields, farms, rice paddies, small rivers, and agricultural machinery. If you’ve got any pictures that fit these categories, feel free to add them! Comments welcome. For each photo, I’ll (or you can) indicate the area where it was taken.

Kanchanaburi:

Kanchanaburi:

Sri Chiangmai:

Soppong:

Tha Wang Pha:

Hi fellow travelers, First trip to Vietnam. We’ll be arriving in Ho Chi Minh City during Tet. Is it complicated to find accommodation and get around during this period? Any tips would be welcome. Thanks for your replies.

Good evening,

Our family trip (2 kids, boys aged 6 and 9) is coming up fast, and I have a few questions. I’ve seen that quite a few people on this forum are active about Thailand, so I hope you can help me out :-)

- I have a Free mobile plan with a good amount of data abroad (35GB). Do you know if the Bolt or Grab apps work well with a French SIM? I’ve read that the app might not work if the SIM isn’t Thai, but I’ve also seen French travelers using their SIMs in Thailand, so I’m not sure what to think.

- What tips do you have to avoid traveler’s diarrhea (especially for our 6- and 9-year-olds)? I’m already preparing them to wash their hands often and not put their hands in their mouths or brush their teeth with tap water (they’re still little and might not control the water well in their mouths). Are there certain dishes or food stands to avoid? Are ice cubes really off-limits too?

- We arrive in Bangkok at 9 AM, and we have a French-speaking guided tour scheduled for the next morning (all day). The itinerary isn’t finalized yet with the guide—I need to get back in touch soon. What do you recommend doing on that first day, which might be tiring after the long flight and jet lag? Our hotel has a nice pool, but I’d love for us to get out and explore a bit :-)

- Is the Grand Palace really best visited early in the morning to avoid crowds?

- I’d love to visit a night or floating market, but they’re all on weekends. Unfortunately, we’re in Bangkok from Wednesday to Saturday morning (then we take the train to Ayutthaya in the morning). Is there a market on Friday night? I saw Chatuchak, but Friday night doesn’t seem like the best time—is it still worth going?

I’ve looked for answers to these questions, but I’m either not finding a definitive answer or I’m overwhelmed by all the things to do/see in Bangkok. So, I’m hoping your advice or experiences can help me out!

Thanks in advance, and have a great evening! :-)

Hi there!

I think the question’s in the title...

What price can I expect to pay in 2025 for a ride of about two kilometers in the tourist center?

Thanks😉

Hi there,

The round trip to Bangkok is almost booked.

Here’s the itinerary I’ve planned for this new trip to Thailand:

Arrival – 2 nights in Bangkok (any hotel recommendations? Very quiet, near Chinatown or by the river)

Train or taxi (which app should I use for Thailand?) to Phetchaburi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations?)

Daytime train to Surat Thani – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Pick up the rental car and head to Khao Sok – 1 night there (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Ko Kho Khao – 3 nights – relaxation (any hotel recommendations?)

Drive to Phang Nga Bay – 1 night (any base recommendations?)

Excursion in the bay, then drive to Krabi – 2 nights (any hotel recommendations) or any other spot with beautiful, quiet beaches that you might know?

Return to Surat Thani – overnight train to Bangkok, then Ayutthaya (any hotel recommendations?)

Visit the site and transfer to the airport – sniff, time to head back!

If you have other suggestions, keeping in mind the trip’s vibe: beach time without crowds or entertainment, a bit of nature, a bit of culture, no stress... No domestic flights and charming accommodations (not at 150 € per night, even though the budget is reasonable!)

Not sure I’ll follow them all, but all your ideas are welcome! 😉

Thanks. 🙂

I’d like to explore the Bolaven Plateau in January with three older friends (a big loop). Could anyone share their feedback, especially about nice accommodations—even homestays? We’re planning to rent a car if possible, since my friends don’t have an international motorcycle or scooter license.

hi everyone, I want to travel in the north for 3 weeks in September-October 2026 to meet ethnic minorities, photograph mountain rice terraces and their harvest, and revisit Halong Bay—but maybe Lan Ha Bay instead. Can you recommend one or more local agencies? Thanks, and happy holidays!

Hi there, After visiting southern Sumatra in 2020 (Padang area, Bukkitinggi, Lake Maninjau), we’re heading north in two weeks to explore. We’ll arrive in Medan after Singapore. Then we plan to go to Bukit Lawang, Berastagi, and Lake Toba before finishing up on Pulau Weh. Yeah, I know three weeks is short, but we like taking our time now that we’re in our fifties 😄. My questions: - Which direction should we do the loop: Medan → Bukit Lawang → Lake Toba → Medan (we’ll be traveling by taxi)? - Can I buy the Medan/Banda Aceh flights just 10 days in advance while we’re there? Any airline to prefer? Thanks in advance to anyone familiar with this part of the world 😊

Hi everyone, I’ve got a big project in northern Vietnam—discovering the most beautiful rice terraces before the harvest... I’m planning to leave around September 15th until October 15th, then spend 15 days exploring the two bays, Lan Ha and Ha Long. In total, 45 days without a visa... I’m traveling solo and very independent. But is it possible to do this kind of trip using local trains and buses? My plan is to leave Hanoi for Nghia Lo (2 days), then Mu Cang Chai (4 days), Sapa (4 days), Bac Ha (2 days), Ha Giang... Hoang Su Phi, then do the Meo Vac loop, Dong Van, etc., to see those stunning karst peaks before heading back to Hanoi. In my research, I haven’t found any buses or vans going from Hanoi to Nghia Lo, even though it’s super popular for its rice terrace landscapes.... I don’t want a daily driver, but I’m thinking I could use moto-taxis to get around locally once I’m there.... What do you think? These rice terraces are a dream for me, along with the markets and all the different ethnic groups, not to mention those spectacular rocky peaks... Is the itinerary too ambitious? I’ve got time on my side. Do you have any solutions? I’ve browsed the forum a lot, but the discussions are 5 or 6 years old, and I think things have changed since then. Thanks for your help planning this adventure!

Hi, I’d like to visit northern Laos by car with a driver from Luang Prabang. Anyone able to share their experience and give me the contact details for a private driver? Thanks for your replies!

We’ve already explored Bali, eastern Java, and its volcanoes back in 2013, and we’d love to return to Java to discover other spots that aren’t so "mainstream." There’ll be three of us—a couple and our 25-year-old son. We love nature, small towns, villages, beautiful landscapes, and a bit of beach time... We’re used to backpacking around Southeast Asia. Any tips for exploring some great spots in Java in a coherent way, with 3 or 4 bases for a 3-week trip from late June to mid-July? We don’t want to revisit Bromo or Ijen (they seem way too crowded compared to 2013), and we might swing by Djogja but won’t redo Borobudur or Prambanan (same issue...). Looking forward to your tips! Thanks 🙂

Hi there,

The question’s in the title—should I buy a map locally or bring a detailed one from France? If so, which one?

Thanks! 😉

Hi there, what do you think of this itinerary, please? Do you think it’s doable? We’re two adults—it’s our honeymoon trip! 🙂 Our main interests lean more toward nature and landscapes than cultural visits (though we won’t rule out one or two temple visits).

01/10/2025 W 10:30 AM – Departure from CDG (overnight flight) 02/10/2025 Th 11:25 AM – Arrival in Denpasar -> Ubud (south of the city) – overnight in Ubud 03/10/2025 F – Excursions around Ubud – overnight in Ubud 04/10/2025 Sa – Excursions around Ubud (Jatiluwih) – overnight in Ubud 05/10/2025 Su – Excursions around Ubud – overnight in Ubud 06/10/2025 M – Ubud -> Amed – overnight in Amed 07/10/2025 Tu – Amed – overnight in Amed 08/10/2025 W – Amed -> Padangbai – overnight in Padangbai 09/10/2025 Th – Padangbai -> Gili Air (first morning boat) – overnight on Gili Air 10/10/2025 F – Gili Air – overnight on Gili Air 11/10/2025 Sa – Gili Air – overnight on Gili Air 12/10/2025 Su – Gili Air -> Nusa Lembongan – overnight on Nusa Lembongan 13/10/2025 M – Nusa Lembongan – overnight on Nusa Lembongan 14/10/2025 Tu – Nusa Lembongan – overnight on Nusa Lembongan 15/10/2025 W – Nusa Lembongan – overnight on Nusa Lembongan (or return to Bali depending on sea conditions) 16/10/2025 Th – Jimbaran or Seminyak – overnight in Jimbaran or Seminyak 17/10/2025 F – Jimbaran -> Denpasar – departure at 6:45 PM (overnight flight) 18/10/2025 Sa 8:00 AM – Arrival at CDG – overnight at home

Thanks in advance for your feedback! [;]

DANANG A big city in the midst of an economic boom. The setting is stunning, with its large bay, the Son Tra Peninsula, and the Annamite Mountains on the horizon.

Where to stay and eat? Da Nang is a bustling business hub, so hotels are pricier and often fully booked. I was lucky to find a motorbike taxi driver who, after six full hotels, took me to Mai Son Hotel, 113 Nguyen Van Linh, a spotless 2-star place. Plus, right next door, there’s a great restaurant that seems popular with locals, and a good Chinese restaurant just a 5-minute walk away, Phi Lu (178 Nguyen Van Linh), recommended by the *Guide du Routard*. So, I’d definitely recommend this hotel. For a pricier option, the very Christian Dai A Hotel, near the tiny pink cathedral, is nice, but why pay more?

Actually, why stay in Da Nang when the gorgeous Hoi An is just 34 km to the south?

What to see? - The lovely Cham Museum (small, takes at most an hour) - The climb up Son Tra Peninsula (great views of the whole area) - The “tour” of the peninsula—quotation marks because the road stops two-thirds of the way. There’s an interesting little museum on the left before reaching the base of the huge statue, the Đong Đinh (large entrance on the left side of the hill), with traditional houses in the jungle holding artifacts over 2,000 years old (Sa Huynh culture; if you’re interested, check out the small Sa Huynh Museum in Hoi An, just before the Japanese Bridge). However, the big Linh Ung Pagoda is just colorful concrete! A beautiful resort, the Son Tra Beach Resort and Spa, sits on a pristine beach and isn’t too expensive: $120 for a garden room and $200–$270 for duplexes with a pool, where you can sleep six. Before reaching the resort, you’ll find two excellent seafood restaurants with large beachfront terraces on your right. - On the way to Hoi An, Marble Mountain, where I loved the village of marble sculpture workshops, the pretty pagodas and caves, and the stunning view from the top of the last promontory (the stairs are steep!). However, you can skip the famous China Beach and its resorts—all pretentious and expensive, not to mention the ones under construction on both sides of the road (they’re multiplying like crazy!). So, when traveling from Da Nang to Hoi An, I recommend two stops: the Cham Museum and Marble Mountain. - The beautiful drive to the Hai Van Pass (there weren’t any clouds!), offering spectacular views of the Da Nang region to the south and the coast to the north. The descent leads to the fishing village and beach of Lang Co, which is lovely but destined for rampant resort development, judging by the huge projects advertised on billboards along the road after the village. - Some affordable guesthouses ($15) and big resorts, including the lovely Lang Co Beach Resort, with a large pool and great value given the beautiful gardens and elegant bungalows. Recommended in Lang Co: lunch at one of the two stilt restaurants over the lagoon—great views and fresh seafood.

The public bus to Hoi An, 34 km south of Da Nang, takes 45 minutes for 50,000 dong. There’s one every half hour.

HOI AN This is a “must-see” for so many reasons: stunning old houses, temples, and pagodas; a colorful daily open-air and covered market near the bridge; charming little streets in the old quarter—especially at night, with all the multicolored lanterns and riverside restaurant terraces, it’s very romantic. The local food is delicious, the people are friendly and kind, there are two beautiful beaches, and attractions like the Cham ruins of My Son. Some say Hoi An is overrun with tourists and should be avoided. That’s true for the historic center and An Bang Beach, but not at all once you step outside.

WHERE TO STAY For a 2-star option, I recommend Ngo House Villa (99 Nguyen Phuc Tan St), very quiet on the island just across from the Old Quarter: 3-star rooms + suites, a large “Family” room, and a nice pool, all for $20 ($40 for the “Family” room). The same charming owner has a second hotel 20 meters away (No. 74), Phan Ngô, which is older but has a large terrace and a small pool—I prefer this one. For 3 stars, Thuy Duong 3 (92 Ba Trieu) is perfect, with a pool and garden ($40–$60). A bit pricier but great is A Han on Phan Bai Chau, with a large garden and terrace restaurant.

For those with a bigger budget, I recommend two riverside spots with rooms, suites, and pools, priced at $200–$350: the secluded Coco River Resort (formerly Ancient House River, with a large wooden terrace for romantic dinners by the river) and Anantara, (formerly Heritage), with bungalows close to the old town—but pricey.

Outside the city, my favorite hotel is Villa Loan, the new place from the famous Loan of Tam Coc, very quiet in the countryside, 15 minutes by bike from Old Hoi An and An Bang Beach. Beautiful rooms ($35), a Family room with two double beds ($55), two 65 m² twins that can sleep six (two large beds + two single beds—$80), a terrace restaurant, and a lovely pool. Prices include a buffet breakfast and a bike.

Also great is Daisy Anbang on An Bang Beach, elegant with a pool and beach just 50 meters away (skip the Aira next door—too expensive).

WHERE TO EAT Hoi An is Vietnam’s culinary capital. For Vietnamese food, I recommend Dao Tien, 21 Phan Bai Chau. No surprise—the chef is a former chef at the luxury 4-star Victoria Hoi An, a solid reference. The restaurant now has a beautiful terrace by the river (take the alley on the right side of the main street Dao Tien). Plus, you’re doing a good deed: a large part of the profits goes toward educating underprivileged children—one year of free hospitality, cooking, and English training, followed by job placement in local establishments. Madame Hien Hoi An (formerly Co Mai), 2 Nguyen Thai Hoc (left of the market), is another great spot—the chef is Didier Corlou, formerly of the famous *Porte d’Annam* and *Madame Hien* in Hanoi (closed in March 2022 due to COVID, so foreign tourists are still scarce). Also worth checking out is Secret Garden, in the Phuong Minh An alley (entrance at 60 Le Loi), set in a beautiful space. One of my favorites is Madam Kieu, 43 Nguyen Phuc Chu, right on the river across from the little bridge—very elegant with excellent Vietnamese cuisine. Unfortunately, all the restaurants on this esplanade blast “music” (boom boom boom yeah yeah yeah) in the evenings, so it’s impossible to talk—go for lunch instead.

For a break from Vietnamese food, try Good Morning Vietnam, a ridiculous name for an excellent Italian restaurant (11 Le Loi). The cheerful chef is from Bologna, the “Lyon of Italy”: lasagna like an Italian *mama*’s, delicious tagliatelle ai porcini (porcini mushrooms imported from Italy), and a divine homemade tiramisu (pro tip: order a grappa and drizzle a few drops on the tiramisu). It’s also one of the few places where you can get an excellent bottle of red wine for 350,000 dong instead of the usual 600,000–800,000 dong (South African Robertson Chapel). Another gem: the Japanese restaurant Samurai Kitchen (no sushi, but divine gyoza), 21 Phan Chau Trinh—the street on the right side of the market when you turn your back to the river. Finally, Ganesh, which I consider the best Indian restaurant in Vietnam (99 Tran Hung Dao St).

At An Bang, there are plenty of beachfront restaurants. The two best are the large one at the far right of the parking lot (huge seafood selection) and the fantastic La Luna d’Autumno, owned by the same person as the Italian restaurant of the same name, once considered the best in Vietnam but closed in 2020 due to COVID. Divine pizzas, including the vegetariana.

WHAT TO VISIT The Japanese Bridge and all the old Chinese houses, temples, and pagodas in the three historic streets. Don’t miss the extraordinary gallery-museum of the great French photographer Réhahn, the Precious Heritage Museum at 26 Phan Boi Chau. His remarkable photo collection—including the famous shot of the little Cham girl with clear blue eyes—has graced the covers of many magazines. His Montagnard Museum is a wonder, with a larger collection of tribal women’s costumes than the Museum of Ethnology in Hanoi. Free entry.

THE BEACHES Cua Dai Beach has mostly disappeared, a victim of the waves, except in a few spots. The beautiful An Bang Beach remains, with great beachfront restaurants, or you can head to Cham Island.

MY SON A beautiful complex of Cham ruins surrounded by mountains, 50 km southwest of Hoi An via a scenic road. You can rent a motorbike, take a motorbike taxi, or join a half-day organized tour. It’s best to go in the afternoon—less crowded than in the morning.

CHAM ISLANDS (Cu Lao Cham) Wow, I loved it! It reminded me of St. Barts 35 years ago. The archipelago, 19 km from Hoi An, consists of eight small islands within the Cu Lao Cham Marine Reserve, declared a “Biosphere Reserve” by UNESCO. The largest and only inhabited island, Hon Lao (Pearl Island), covers 1,317 hectares, and its highest peak reaches 517 meters. Hon Lao has two villages: Bai Lang, where the boats from Hoi An dock, and the charming little fishing port of Bai Huong. Part of the island is a military zone, so only the east coast is accessible to tourists.

To get there, you have three options: - The public boat (100,000 dong) that leaves from in front of Café des Amis at 7:30 AM. The catch is it returns to Hoi An at noon, so to enjoy the charm of the place, you’ll need to spend a night on the island (which I highly recommend). - Organized tours by Cham Diving Club, with two options: diving or snorkeling only. - A private speedboat, but it’s not cheap: $200 for the day!

Note: Even if the weather seems fine, the large public boat won’t leave if the sea is too rough. The only solution is to go to the port around 7:30 AM and check (easy, since it brings all the supplies for the island’s locals—if it’s leaving, it’ll be loading up). Avoid weekends—it gets swarmed with locals.

Small coves with dreamy beaches, as they say. Two are very close to Bai Lang: one to the left (facing the village), Bai Ong, lined with restaurants, and a tiny one to the right of the village. The other two beaches, including Bai Chong and the little fishing port of Bai Huong, are accessible by motorbike or boat. I recommend renting a motorbike (biking is tough due to steep hills) and taking the road that overlooks the coast—it’s stunning.

Great diving. The Cham Diving Club is superbly organized by a very friendly Italian, Lodovico, and two French guys (www.chamislanddiving.com).

When you arrive at Bai Lang’s pier, they’ll offer you TWO family-run guesthouses in the village. There are also homestays, but they’re really basic (usually bamboo mats on wooden planks as beds), no English or French is spoken, and locals speak a dialect that’s hard to understand even if you’re decent at Vietnamese. Anyway, I don’t recommend staying in Bai Lang because of the public loudspeakers. Two options if you want a quiet night: - A small guesthouse facing the tiny rice field on the way to Bai Ong Beach. Very clean rooms and a large terrace overlooking the “rice field.” 300,000 dong, with meals available on the terrace. Nha Nghi Vu Truong Tel: 235 386 4783 Mobile: 01 67 76 63 110. - Homestays in the little fishing port of Bai Huong.

Hi everyone, I’m looking for addresses for guesthouses or, even better, houseboats or rafting houses on the River Kwai, between Kanchanaburi and Sangkhlaburi, to spend a few weeks contemplating this beautiful river. Thanks for your suggestions! Premaria

Hi there. To break up the trip from Capas to Banaue, we're planning to stop in Baguio for 2 nights. Good or bad idea? If it's a good one, which neighborhood should we look for accommodation in? Thanks

Hi, After our trip to China, we want to spend a week in the Philippines for some beach time and snorkeling. We're looking for the best spot to settle in—nice beaches, great marine life, and short transfer times. Thanks for your suggestions!

Hi everyone, I’m planning a trip to Indonesia (Java and Bali) and I’d like to explore on my own, but I’m struggling to find contacts for French-speaking guides—not for a full tour, but for short visits ranging from a few hours to maybe 2-3 days. I checked GetYourGuide and Klook, which seem to fit my needs, but I don’t see any French-speaking guides. Where can I find French-speaking guides locally?

If anyone has any info or tips, I’d really appreciate it! Cheers