Hi fellow travelers, I’m looking for a nice hotel in Agadir, in a lively neighborhood, with a room that has a private bathroom, toilet, and AC (not essential). We’ll be staying for 2 or 3 nights before heading south. We land in the late afternoon—definitely not the best time to go hunting for a place to stay, especially since it’s our first trip to Morocco. Thanks for your tips!

Hi there,

A group of 11 of us will be spending a week in Marrakech in May. I’d love your thoughts and advice on these excursions I’ve shortlisted—or any others I might not have considered:

- Visiting Marrakech: with or without a guide? Is one day enough for the main sights? - Essaouira: Is a day trip a good option? Is the journey scenic? - Ouzoud Waterfalls: Is the place worth the trip? - Agafay Desert: Any recommendations to avoid the tourist crowds? - Imlil Valley and Mount Toubkal: A worthwhile detour?

Of course, I don’t plan to do everything in one week, but your input will help me decide... Thanks in advance! !

Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!

Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair

- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.

- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).

- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges. Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!

Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.

Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).

Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!

Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!

Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.

Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).

A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime. If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving... Happy to answer any questions!

Hi there, I’m about to take my nephews to Morocco for a week to celebrate their 18th birthdays during the first week of September. I’ve already planned most of it, but I’d love any advice or tips on my itinerary! Thanks in advance to anyone who replies :)

Day 1: Agadir → Essaouira Morning: Crocoparc/cable car/kasbah (I’d considered Paradise Valley, but it seems less great now? Dirty, drought, etc.?) Depart for Essaouira, lunch in Taghazout around 1 PM. Mid-afternoon to evening in Essaouira, overnight there. Visit the medina, walk along the ramparts and fishing port. Sunset from the Skala du Port or the beach. Dinner at one of the seafood restaurants near the port.

Day 2: Essaouira → Marrakech → Agafay Desert Morning: 🔹 Early departure from Essaouira to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Afternoon: Explore Marrakech: 🔹 Jemaa el-Fna Square 🔹 Majorelle Garden Late afternoon: 🔹 At 3 PM, depart for the Agafay Desert (~1 hour) for a camel ride + quad excursion. Evening: 🔹 Dinner and overnight in the desert.

Day 3: Agafay → Marrakech → Ouzoud Morning: 🔹 Return to Marrakech from Agafay at 11 AM. Late morning & early afternoon: Last spots in Marrakech: 🔹 Bahia Palace 🔹 Ben Youssef Madrasa Mid/late afternoon: 🔹 Depart for Ouzoud (~2.5 hours). Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouzoud. Day 4: Ouzoud → Marrakech Morning: 🔹 Visit Ouzoud Waterfalls. Early afternoon: 🔹 Return to Marrakech (~2.5 hours). Late afternoon/evening: 🔹 Free time in Marrakech to wander the souks and experience Jemaa el-Fna Square at night with its evening atmosphere. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Marrakech. Day 5: Marrakech → Aït Ben Haddou → Ouarzazate Early morning: 🔹 Depart for Aït Ben Haddou via the Tizi n'Tichka Pass (~3 hours 45 minutes). Midday: 🔹 Visit the Ksar of Aït Ben Haddou. Afternoon: 🔹 Drive to Ouarzazate (~30 minutes), visit the Taourirt Kasbah. Evening: 🔹 Overnight in Ouarzazate. Day 6: Ouarzazate → Agadir Very early departure in the morning. Morning: Visit Agadir’s souk. Afternoon: 🔹 Relax at the hotel pool, jet ski, and overnight stay. Day 7: Agadir Morning off. 🔹 Beach and pool time. Return flight.

Thanks so much!

Hi everyone, I know there are some *reaaaal* Morocco experts here, so I’m giving it a shot. Early June, we’re heading back to the country for the third time for a little week-long trip. We’ll arrive and depart from Essaouira, where we’ll rent a car to drive south down to roughly Sidi Ifni. The plan is to make short stops of 2-3 hours max, a mix of coastal spots and a bit inland. We’re looking for natural, quiet places that feel untouched. We loved Taghazout years ago and Larache two years back—just to give you an idea of our vibe. What spots would you recommend along this route? I’m tempted by Paradise Valley but worried it’ll be as crowded as Agadir. What do you think? Any other valleys in the area worth the detour? Thanks, and have a great weekend! 😊

Hi there,

We’re heading to Ouarzazate and southern Morocco in 7 days. Here’s our route (map). We’re a family of 2 adults and 3 kids (11, 9, and 5 years old). Could you let me know if there are even more scenic roads to take, and any must-see spots, please? 😉

Day 1: Ouarzazate – Skoura – Dadès Day 2: Dadès + Todra Day 3: Tinegir – Djbel Saghro – N'Kob Day 4: Tazzarine – M'Hamid (overnight in Erg Lihoudi) Day 5: M'Hamid – Draa Valley – Agdz Day 6: Agdz – Fint – Ben Haddou Day 7: Telouet – Ouarzazate

Hello VF friends! We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.

- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area. - Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.

We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.

- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche. - Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights. - Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.

After that, we’ll head east.

We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!

Thanks so much, and happy holidays!

A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.

In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.

1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.

2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.

3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.

4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.

5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.

6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.

I think that’s it for now.

Take care

Hi there, we’re planning a short week in Morocco this coming February with our two kids, aged 8 and 10. We’ll be flying into Agadir and want to drive to Tafraoute with a rental car; we’ll only have 6 full days there (arriving Monday evening and leaving the following Monday afternoon). I’m torn between two loops: Agadir–Tafraoute–Taroudant–Agadir or Agadir–Tafraoute–Tiznit–Agadir (via the Kerdouss Pass).

Either way, I’ve spotted a few places I’d like to see: the Tizourgane kasbah and the Aït Mansour gorges.

Any advice? I’m struggling to figure out if the road between Tiznit and Tafraoute is easy to drive with a rental car in February. Thanks in advance for your tips!

Maïwenn

Hi there, Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.

Hi there, I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days. We’ll be renting a car to get around. Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy? My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal! Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!

Hi fellow travelers,

We’ll be in Marrakech for 10 days in February (couple + 12-year-old child). We’d like to spend 3-4 days in Essaouira.

What’s the easiest and most budget-friendly way to make the Marrakech-Essaouira trip and then Essaouira-Marrakech (straight to the airport, I think) a few days later? Taxi? Bus? Or just rent a car? But then what do we do with the car while we’re in Essaouira? Could it be useful for exploring interesting sites outside the city while we’re there?

Thanks in advance for your great tips!

Hi there, Just back from 3 weeks in Morocco, I’m selling a SIM card (INWI operator) at a low price. It still has 15 MAD + 10 GB of data left. This gives you a local Moroccan number to make/receive calls and texts without extra fees, and the data lets you use WhatsApp. See the 2 photos. Sold for 6 euros + postage

Hello and Happy New Year to everyone!!

We have a little week of vacation from February 1st to 8th and we’d like to return to Morocco. In March 2024, we spent 4 days in Marrakech, 2 nights in the Atlas Mountains, and 1 night in Essaouira. This time, we’re hesitating between spending 3 days in Rabat and 3 days in Fez and the surrounding area (Meknes), or landing in Marrakech again but taking the road to Mergouza via Ouarzazate, the Dadès Gorges, etc. What do you recommend for this time of year? We enjoy both monuments (for the first option) and nature (for the second).

Best regards, Christophe

Hi there,

We’re leaving at the end of December (30th) until the beginning of January (6th) with my partner. I’ll be 6 months pregnant. We’d like to rent a car as soon as we arrive in Marrakesh but don’t want to stay there for New Year’s. We prefer the quiet of nature and remote villages. We’re planning to spend 2 days in Marrakesh before our return flight on the 6th.

What itinerary would you recommend to get off the beaten path, avoid overly touristy areas, and discover the palm groves, desert, and this region of Morocco—without overdoing it, given the advanced pregnancy? Thanks so much,

Hi there, We’ll be staying in Marrakech for a few days soon and are looking for a serious and competent guide to show us around the Marrakech medina. We’ve searched without luck so far—could you help us out? Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April. What do you think of this rate? This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.

Thanks

Hello,

We’re torn between a riad in the medina and one on the outskirts (south of Marrakech) with the advantage of peace and quiet, a big pool for the kids, but it’s far (10 km).

We’ll have a rental car. Is it easy to park near Jemaa el-Fna square, for example? Are the rates public (so we know what to expect)?

This would save us from taking taxis multiple times a day since we’ve been told it’d cost around 12 € each way. The bill could add up quickly.

Generally speaking, would you recommend staying in Marrakech itself, in the old city, or in the surrounding area? We’ll only be there for two nights with a 10-year-old girl and a 14-year-old teen who both want to explore the city but also enjoy the pool.

Thanks

Hi there, We're interested in urbanism, architecture, Arab-Muslim culture, and the daily life of locals... A rough idea: Fez and Meknes. A good plan? Maybe too touristy? We prefer off-the-beaten-path destinations (we’ve traveled to Iran, for example). What else is there to see in the region? We’re open to any suggestions. Thanks for your tips!

Hi everyone, We’re planning a trip to Morocco in February 2026. We already know the country a bit, including the desert where we were lucky enough to take part in a rally. This time, we’d like to explore the Merzouga dunes as a family. We’ll be renting a car in Marrakech and we’re looking for advice on the best stops to make the most of the drive. We’re still undecided about the return route: should we go back through the Valley of the Roses (and maybe see the gorges if we don’t have time on the way there) or take the Draa Valley for a change? Here’s our rough itinerary:

Day 1: Arrival in Marrakech in the evening – Overnight stay there

Day 2: Drive east – Overnight in Skoura? Boumalne? Further on?

Day 3: Drive with a stop at the Dadès or Todra Gorges – Overnight in Merzouga

Day 4: Desert day – Overnight in Merzouga

Day 5: Return drive (Draa Valley or back through the Valley of the Roses / Route of the 1000 Kasbahs?) – Overnight in Agdz? Ouarzazate?

Day 6: Drive back to Marrakech with a stop at Aït Ben Haddou / Fint Oasis – Overnight in Marrakech

Day 7–8: Marrakech then departure

If any of you have suggestions on timing, the most enjoyable stops, or feedback on these routes, I’d love to hear your tips. Thanks in advance!

Hi there, in mid-January my wife and I are leaving from Marrakech heading to the Atlas (Essaouira ==> Dades ==> Merzouga ==> Draa Valley) before finally making our way to Taghazout near Agadir for 2 or 3 days.

The route ends up looking like this, except for the end where we head toward the ocean. https://www.les-covoyageurs.com/ressources/images-produits/photo-produit-29-carte.jpg?v=6

I’m hesitating about renting a car, and since I don’t know the road conditions, I’d like to know if a Dacia Sandero is enough for this kind of trip?

Another thing making me hesitate is the possibility of rain and roads being less passable.

I’m reaching out to more experienced travelers who can share their advice, of course.

Thanks in advance

Hi everyone, I’ve given my 18-year-old daughter a week in Morocco in February. I’d like to mix a bit of Marrakech (or elsewhere) with a hotel and pool, plus a trip into the desert with some beautiful dunes. How can I structure this without making the journeys too long? Is it possible to do Marrakech to the south in 2 days, stopping at lovely spots along the way? Just to clarify, I’d prefer not to rent a car, and my daughter isn’t very "adventurous." Thanks in advance for your replies and tips!

Hi there, We’re a small group planning a road trip loop with a rental car, starting and ending in Marrakech. Two weeks at the end of October. We’d like a mix of nature discoveries, villages, ksars (ideally some photogenic and/or abandoned ones), a few hikes, and if possible, one or two nights sleeping on a rooftop/terrace in a village. What do you think of this itinerary? Thanks for your insights, and have a great evening, everyone! Christophe

10/17 Marrakech airport → Cascades Ourika Ourika Valley, Promenade des 7 Cascades – 65 km

10/18 Cascades Ourika → Telouet Toufliht (km 99) – 163 km

10/19 Telouet → Aïd Benhaddou Walks in the stunning Ounila Valley – 47 km

10/20 Aïd Benhaddou → Gorges Dadès Skoura (Association des femmes) – 168 km

10/21 Gorges Dadès → Départ Saghro Tinghir, Todgha Gorges – 154 km

10/22 Départ Saghro → Départ Saghro Walk in the Saghro (24 km) – 0 km

10/23 Départ Saghro → Tagounite Dunes Tinfou – 192 km

10/24 Tagounite → Tamnougalt Zagora – 156 km

10/25 Tamnougalt → Tamnougalt Draa Valley – 0 km

10/26 Tamnougalt → Taliouine Tazenakht – 178 km

10/27 Taliouine → Imlil Tizi n Test – 202 km

10/28 Imlil → Marrakech – 63 km

Hi there,

I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’ll be late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was a constant 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.

For southern Morocco, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but for those who’ve been there in early July, did it cause any major issues? Otherwise, I’ll start thinking of another destination.

Here’s the rough itinerary I had in mind, renting a car for the whole trip:

Day 1: Arrival in Marrakech late morning Day 2: Marrakech Day 3: Marrakech -> Aït Ben Haddou -> Ouarzazate Day 4: Ouarzazate -> Vallée des Roses -> Dadès Gorges Day 5: Dadès Gorges -> Tinghir -> Todra Gorges -> Erfoud Day 6: Erfoud -> Merzouga (Erg Chebbi desert) Day 7: Merzouga -> Ouarzazate Day 8: Ouarzazate -> seaside? Agadir or Essaouira Day 9: ?? Day 10: ?? Day 11: Return to Marrakech and flight back late afternoon

Is this schedule too rushed? Does Ouarzazate deserve an extra night? The seaside isn’t a must, as long as we can swim somewhere—pool or lake. We’re planning activities like horseback riding, camel treks, quad biking, and jeep tours.

Thanks for your input

Hi everyone,

Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.

A few questions:

1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!

2) What documents are required for the car?

3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊

I know there are experts on this forum.

Thanks in advance

Hi there, if you're planning to rent a car to get around in Morocco, make sure to budget for "fines" even if you drive perfectly. For example, getting caught going 5 km/h over the speed limit 500 meters before you see the sign dropping the limit to 60 km/h—while being overtaken by a packed taxi with no seatbelts. Or, say, stopping at a stop sign for 3 seconds but not long enough, even though no helmetless motorcyclists were stopping either (yes, helmets are mandatory in Morocco)... Anyway, plan a "fine" budget for your Moroccan "vacation."

Hi there,

We’re planning to visit southern Morocco from April 30th to May 11th (10 full days). I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on the itinerary I’ve planned. We’ll be arriving in Ouarzazate and departing from Agadir. We’re thinking of renting a Dacia for this little road trip. Thanks in advance for your tips!

**Ouarzazate** – Arrival at 7:00 PM. Dinner in Ouarzazate, then drive to Ait Ben Haddou. **Night in Ait Ben Haddou** – To visit in Ait Ben Haddou: - The Ksar of Ait Ben Haddou - The Kasbah of Tifoultoute (on the way down to Ouarzazate) In Ouarzazate itself: - Visit the Kasbah Taourirt (gorgeous) 30 minutes south of Ouarzazate: - Fint Oasis Leaving Ouarzazate (eastbound): Route of the 1,000 Kasbahs - Kasbah Amridil (just before arriving in Skoura) - Skoura Palm Grove (a must-see) **Valley of the Roses** – Tamellalt / Boulmane Dadès – Night in Tamellalt? Boulmane Dadès? **Dadès Gorges**: 2–3 hour hike/walk (in the Valley of the Monkey Fingers) Then head toward the Todgha Gorges Arrival at the Todgha Gorges/Tinghir in the late afternoon (3-hour drive) **Visit Todgha Gorges**: no particular activity—it’s the road that’s stunning. **Tinghir** – Night in Tinghir? The next morning, head toward either: - Zagora (3h20 – 208 km) - Or M’Hamid (4h48 – 305 km) **Night in Zagora? M’Hamid?** **Drive to the Sahara Desert** – First night in the desert: camels, oasis, etc. Second night in the desert Return to Zagora or M’Hamid, then depending on arrival time, drive to Agdz? Taliouine, or Taroudant (a bit far) **Night in Agdz? Taliouine? Taroudant?** Then drive to Taghazout **Night in Taghazout** Drive to Essaouira **Visit Essaouira the next day** **Night in Essaouira** Return to Taghazout the following morning **Night in Taghazout** One extra day (buffer) **May 11th** – Drive to Agadir for morning flight departure

Hi there, I’m planning to cross the Atlas M’Goun-Toubkal range at the end of March and I’m looking for info on how to get to Ait Bou Oulli from Marrakech via Demnate. Can anyone tell me if there’s a direct bus to Demnate and then a minibus (once it’s full) to Ait Bou Oulli? Is it doable in a day by bus or even a shared taxi?

Thanks in advance

MOROCCO END 2024 / BEGINNING 2025 Off-season, I was lucky enough to negotiate hotel prices. I should also mention that this was for a solo traveler until December 30th. After that, there’ll be three of us! Practical info. Here’s all the info I gathered during my 3-month trip. Cities: TANGIER / CHEFCHAOUEN / FES / MOULAY IDRISS, VOLUBILIS / AZROU / MIDELT / ERRACHIDIA / RISSANI / MERZOUGA / TINGHIR / BOUMLANE DADES, AIT OUGLIF / OUARZAZATE / TALIOUINE / TAROUDANT / TIZNIT / TAFRAOUT / SIDI IFNI, LEGZIRA / AGADIR / ESSAOUIRA / MARRAKECH ///

From there, we’ll be three people. Cities: IMLIL / OUARZAZATE / AGDZ / ZAGORA / AIT BEN HADDOU / MARRAKECH / ESSAOUIRA / CASABLANCA. (Generally, I found that mattresses in Morocco were quite hard. My solution: I put two, even three folded blankets on the mattress to add some softness. Wi-Fi almost never works in the room.)

Tangier: Hôtel Fuentes Petit Socco, Old Medina +212 539 934 669 (For one person, end of October) Upon arrival, 19 € for a double room with a private bathroom. Breakfast included. Chefchaouen: Dar Besmellah Av Ibn Askar +212 539 986 489 (For one person, end of October). I don’t recommend it. A small, low-ceilinged room with a window facing a patio. Very dark and damp. Shared bathroom. 9 € Dar Bleu Pearl N° 4 Derb Benyaakoub +212 (0)539 88 28 86. Negotiated on-site to 130 MAD instead of 160 on Booking. Small room, furniture, Wi-Fi, private bathroom. Fes: Riad Alfredo or Riad Rocco—it’s the same place. It’s in a very narrow alley. N° 15 Derb Sidi Kjih or Qjih Talla Sagira +212 662 769 688 (see photos and virtual tour) Negotiated to 13 € on-site; on Booking, it was 16 €. Breakfast included. Atypical Anne room with private bathroom, Wi-Fi. The room is a bit dark. One of the best beds on my trip. Again, this was for a solo traveler off-season (end of October to end of December). Moulay Idriss: Gite El Menzeh (see the map) Negotiated on-site to 14 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 24 €. I also negotiated for dinner—very good and hearty—for 5 € (the manager wanted 20 €). I stayed in the large upstairs room with a double bed, window, and private bathroom, not the tiny windowless rooms downstairs. Azrou: Hôtel des Cèdres Place Mohamed V. (see the map and photos) Negotiated 13 € instead of 16 € on Booking for a room with two small beds and a private bathroom. This hotel is honestly run-down and not worth the price at all. The owner thinks it’s a very classy hotel because of its old reputation! Midelt: Chez Ali, city center (see map) Negotiated to 14 € instead of 17 € on Booking. Room with two beds, bathroom, window, small terrace, and Wi-Fi. Er Rachidia: Hôtel El Fekri. Rue Moulay Abdalah Ben Ali (see map and photos) Couldn’t negotiate on-site—14 €, but on Booking, it was 5 € more! Rissani: Hôtel Restaurant Panorama +212 615 978 445 Well, I’d say skip it. Rooms without windows and shared bathrooms. Or on the terrace, there’s a sort of space with a big bed and a small bed behind a locked iron door with a window and an external bathroom that’s also used by people eating on the terrace. If there are people on the terrace, forget about privacy! Not to mention the internet doesn’t work, and the bed is as hard as a straw mat. All that for 150 MAD—luckily, I didn’t book through Booking, or it would’ve been more expensive!!! I didn’t stay. This closet isn’t even worth 100 MAD—and even that’s too much! A little further on, I went to a hotel where no one spoke English or anything else. I got a large room with 3 beds, a private bathroom, and Wi-Fi for 100 MAD. Merzouga: Said’s apartment +212 618 659 264. No real address—it’s right next to a souvenir shop, far from the center. (see photos) 15 €. The apartment is large with two bedrooms and all the comforts. But for me, it was too far from the village. Chez Belkecem: Marked on GPS. I don’t have any coordinates (see photos). +212 666 911 732 Negotiated on-site to 13 € with breakfast; on Booking, it was 2 € more. The room is decorated in a Berber style, with a private bathroom and a window to the outside. The worst breakfast I had in Morocco! Tinghir: Dar Al Medina Av Mohamed V (see map) Beautiful hotel negotiated to 13 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Breakfast included, Wi-Fi, room with a double bed and a single bed, window, and private bathroom. (Top floor) Boumlane Dades: Auberge Tamazirt (no contact) see GPS. Negotiated to 13 € with breakfast. It’s rustic, but I had a private bathroom, a large bed, Wi-Fi, a window, and a double bed. And the best part—the super-friendly owner gave me one of the gas heaters from the hallway. Aït Ouglif: Hôtel Aït Marghad. (See the map) Negotiated to 150 MAD instead of 240 MAD with breakfast. The place was half-closed because it was off-season. Room with a double bed on the ground floor, window, Wi-Fi, and bathroom. Heating provided—essential. The hassle was that there was almost no hot water. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Atlas 13 rue du marché +212 524 887 745 It’s on the pedestrian street. (See photos) Negotiated to 13 €. Old-fashioned room, double bed with a very hard mattress. Private bathroom, window, and Wi-Fi. Taliouine: Hôtel Le Safran. A 20-minute walk from the center—no other choice. Otherwise, there are a few local hotels, but even if I’m not always picky, there are limits. (See the map) Negotiated from 300 MAD to 200 MAD. Breakfast, Wi-Fi, window, king-size bed, private bathroom. The room is large (No. 11). (There’s a pool in the hotel.) Hôtel Atlas Bordeaux: +212 666 752 292 (next to the bus station) Usually, I’m not too picky, but honestly, skip this one. This place could be good because it’s central if: the cleaning was thorough. The bathrooms need to be redone... etc. No sheets—just a sort of blanket on the mattress and another to cover yourself. Obviously not clean. No towel. A bathroom that hasn’t been cleaned in way too long. In short, absolutely avoid. 120 MAD! Taroudant: Hôtel (mini) Atlas Bld Mansour Eddahbi (see map and photos) Double room with window, large bed, private bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great). A hotel that doesn’t look like much but is sparkling clean! 90 MAD for a single, 120 MAD for a double. Tiznit: Résidence Chem (see map) 100 MAD for a room with two single beds (very hard), window, private bathroom, and Wi-Fi. Clean but poorly maintained. Tafraout: Espace Tifawine (see the map). Hotel with a pool. Negotiated to 14 € on-site instead of 30 € on Booking. I could even choose my room. A large room with two beds—one big and one small. A large bathroom, a window, and Wi-Fi. Sidi Ifni: Hôtel Suerte Loca. (No contact, see GPS) I paid 140 MAD for a room in this dive—no negotiation possible. My room had a tiny terrace, the walls were repainted, but it’s super noisy (neighbors). Worse, when someone uses the water, there’s a loud machinery noise. That’s not all—the mattress is really worn out and sagging. The bathroom isn’t great. The Wi-Fi doesn’t work! This place still enjoys its old reputation, but it’s really run-down, and everything is old. The bedding is the worst I had in Morocco. Skip it. There’s much better for cheaper elsewhere! Hôtel La Belle Vue: Just before Suerte Loca +212 528 875 242 The reception staff was more than unfriendly. After seeing the rooms, I didn’t stay because the bedding would’ve been like sleeping on a yoga mat. Obviously not worth the 200 MAD asked for. Hôtel Aït Baamrane. Further down on the beach. Same price as above. The only difference is that everything is in good condition and comfortable, with a warm welcome.

Hôtel Safa: (see the map and photos.) On-site, no negotiation possible—200 MAD; on Booking, it was over 350 MAD. Huge room with all the luxury you could hope for. Breakfast included, large bay window, king-size bed, TV, Wi-Fi, furniture, and of course, a private bathroom. Agadir: Hôtel Kamal (see map) The only hotel I booked through Booking because there was a good discount. Except on-site, the hotel never wanted to give me the discount. At night, small insects that strongly resemble cockroaches—yet it’s high-end with doormen, etc. I contacted Booking, but nothing worked! I paid 250 MAD! Essaouira: Hôtel Elkasbah Souiria (See map and photo) Small room (No. 18) with a single bed and all the comforts. Private bathroom, window, Wi-Fi, and breakfast included (all-you-can-eat buffet). No negotiation possible—200 MAD. Chez Lina: Rue El Khemiset +212 658 042 562 (she speaks French) Large apartment with two bedrooms. Private bathroom on the landing. Wi-Fi. New, so not yet well set up. Far from the center. I paid 15 € instead of 18 € on Booking. Marrakech: Hôtel Atlas 50 rue Sidi Bouloukate +212 661 358 662 Tiny room on the ground floor with a shared bathroom. Wi-Fi, tiny window, very dark and noisy. 12 €

On December 31st, I’m joined by friends. The rooms will be for three people. Marrakech: Hôtel Agnaou 10 avenue or passage Moulay Rachid. +212 705 306 275. Negotiated on-site to 28 € for a room with a window to the outside and a private bathroom. Wi-Fi. Riad Todos: in the old medina +34 643 480 502 Watch out for extra taxes they might try to charge you. No heating. This place could be nice if better maintained. Bad smell of cat urine. Water leak in the bathroom. Wall crumbling from humidity. However, the reception staff is warm and tries to satisfy you. 120 MAD booked on Airbnb! Imlil: Auberge de la Vallée (see map) Large room with 4 beds. All comforts. Private bathroom, heating, Wi-Fi, and breakfast. Negotiated on-site to 300 MAD for three people. Ouarzazate: Hôtel Iazal: Av. Moulay Abdellah +212 524 886 187 (see photos) Very expensive for this hotel. Small room for 3 with a tiny, impractical bathroom. Heating, Wi-Fi, window. The showerhead is placed between the tiny sink and the toilet. The small space floods quickly. Far from the pedestrian center. No negotiation possible—350 MAD for three. Agdz: Guesthouse Le Chant des Palmiers. (See map) Very nice room—more like a small apartment with a fireplace corner, gas heating, private bathroom, Wi-Fi, windows, bedroom area plus two single beds. Breakfast included. Negotiated to 400 MAD for 3 people instead of 840 MAD on Booking. Zagora: Hôtel La Palmeraie. (See map) Room with bathroom, Wi-Fi (not great), heating, and window. Breakfast included. No negotiation—300 MAD (for 3). Aït Ben Haddou: Auberge La Barraka (see the map) Large, beautiful room with windows, Wi-Fi, heating, bathroom. Breakfast included. Pool. Negotiate a good price—but I didn’t note it down. (Around mid-January) Essaouira: El Kasbah Souiria. (See above) Room for three. Same benefits. No negotiation. 500 MAD. Casablanca: 664, Résidence Clémentine BD Mohamed V, Roches Noires. +33 6681 48002 Large, upscale apartment. Not far from Casa Voyageurs train station. Booked on Booking. 45 € (Last day, January 16th). Upon arrival, the price is always a few euros cheaper than on Booking—except in rare cases. Then, negotiation is possible or not! Prices vary depending on the season.

A few good places (for me) to eat.

Fes: Chez Hakim. (See map) Very good, hearty, and almost cheaper than anywhere else in the medina. Ouarzazate: Pasto wood-fired oven Place Al-Mouahidine +212 696 484 281 It had been a long time since I’d eaten such a good pizza (better than in most restaurants in France). At a price that beats all competition! Midelt: Berber Restaurant. (See map and photos) A dive that doesn’t look like much but is delicious at a more than affordable price. Marrakech: Dar EL WALIDIN Raid laahrouse, Rte Sidi Abdelaziz +212 653 493 637 Great selection, good food, and also cheap!

(At Jemaa el-Fnaa square. Under the warm welcome at restaurant « Chez Ali N° 65 », we got scammed out of 7 € when paying the bill! Experts at swindling.) Azrou: Snack La Forêt (see map) Again, good food at a low price. Merzouga: Snack Alafrah VOLUBILIS: The price has gone up to 100 MAD. Honestly, if you’re not an archaeology buff, it’s not worth it! BANKS: The best exchange rate I got was at BMCI. For ATMs, I paid the least fees at Banque Populaire. TRANSPORTATION:

Airport taxi Tangier to Petit Socco: 100 MAD Train: Fes to Meknès Al Amir: 35 MAD Casablanca to Airport: 60 MAD

Grand Taxis: (Shared taxi for 7 people that only leaves when full. I never waited more than 15 minutes to leave. There’s good turnover, and the vehicles are in good condition. They go faster than buses and are almost always cheaper. Prices are fixed, and you don’t pay the driver but the station chief!)

Meknès to Moulay Idriss: 12 MAD Moulay Idriss to Azrou: 35 MAD Midelt to Errachidia: 60 MAD Errachidia to Rissani: 40 MAD (I preferred this option rather than leaving at night or very early in the morning from Errachidia to Merzouga with Supratour, the only company that goes to Merzouga.) Rissani to Merzouga: 15 MAD Taliouine to Taroudant: 45 MAD (The bus is cheaper but takes longer) Taroudant to Inezgane: 35 MAD (Agadir suburb) I connected directly to Tiznit. Inezgane to Tiznit: 35 MAD Tiznit to Tafraout: 45 MAD (2-hour trip) Tiznit to Sidi Ifni: 35 MAD Agadir to Essaouira: 100 MAD Essaouira to Marrakech: 100 MAD Imlil to Marrakech: 35 MAD Grand taxi for three to Imlil: 220 MAD BUS: Tangier to Chefchaouen: 65 + 5 MAD baggage CTM Chefchaouen to Fes: 135 + 5 MAD CTM Azrou to Midelt: 50 MAD local bus Merzouga to Tinghir: 110 + 5 MAD Supratour Tinghir to Boumlane Dades: 30 + 5 MAD Supratour Boumlane Dades to Ouarzazate: 30 MAD minibus Ouarzazate to Taliouine: 60 MAD Satas company Sidi Ifni to Agadir: 95 + 5 MAD CTM Agadir to Essaouira: 70 MAD Trans Al Yamama Essaouira to Marrakech: 65 MAD Argana company Marrakech to Essaouira: 60 + 5 MAD Virago Mogador company Essaouira to Casablanca: 100 + 5 MAD

Sidi Ifni: To go to Legzira, there are green shared buses that leave every 2 hours for 6 MAD. Petit Taxis: You have to negotiate hard—the price can double. Example: In Fes, they asked me for 50 MAD from the bus station to the Blue Gate. By walking a bit further and being patient, I got a taxi for 20 MAD! Another example: From Agadir’s bus station, they asked for 40 MAD to go to Hôtel Kamal. In the end, I paid 15 MAD! Here’s all the practical info I gathered during my trip to Morocco from late October to mid-January. It’s up to you to see if it’s useful or not.

Hi there,

I’m heading to Morocco in early September for a week, and I could use some advice on an itinerary. I’ll be renting a car, and I generally like pretty packed itineraries. That said, is this one manageable, or is it TOO packed—maybe even unworkable? I usually like to hit the road by 6 AM.

Are there any stops that are way too rushed? Any suggestions for the route or places to see along the way?

Thanks to anyone who replies! :)

Best,

Day 1 Agadir → Taroudant Taroudant → Ait Benhaddou Day 2 Ait Benhaddou → Ouarzazate Ouarzazate → Zagora, overnight in the desert (is it better to stop and take a tour in Zagora, or keep going to M’Hamid?)

Day 3 Desert excursion, then head to Skoura

Day 4 Skoura → Ouzoud

Day 5 Ouzoud → Marrakech

Day 6 Marrakech → Essaouira

Day 7 Essaouira → Agadir

Thanks!