Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this January with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you did start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too hard on the knees?
Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?
Hi Nolwen,
As soon as I arrived in Mindelo, I headed to the bank to exchange euros for escudos—no problem at a rate of 1 € for 110 CVE, though there was a short wait, but hey, we're in Cape Verde.
Then I bought a local SIM card for 1100 CVE (10 €)—super handy for calling a taxi and so much more.
I didn’t find anything extraordinary in Ponta do Sol compared to Ribeira Grande, except that prices are much higher there. Either way, if you want to hike, you’ll first need a *collectivo* to get to Ribeira Grande, then another one or a taxi to reach the main hiking spots like Cova, Corda, Coculi, etc.
In Ribeira Grande, there’s a great selection of restaurants, shops, etc., and even though it’s the capital, the town is small.
We really appreciated staying in Ribeira rather than Ponta do Sol, but it’s up to you.
Yes, the hikes are well-marked. If you have Maps.me and downloaded Cape Verde before your trip, you’ll have all the routes mapped out to the meter.
I’m almost 79 and didn’t have any knee pain—just a few minor aches in the morning that disappeared after a few steps.
Cheers,
Jacquesler
Thanks for your feedback.
I have maps.me on my phone since I won’t have internet. Do I need to download the Cape Verde map before I leave, or can I install it once I have Wi-Fi on site?
Hi,
Of course, you should download the map of Cape Verde before you leave or once you're there when you're connected to Wi-Fi.
This lets you plan your trip, your spots, your restaurants, the *aluguers*, etc.
See the attached screenshot.
Jacquesler
Hi,
Sorry, but when I sent it, there were indeed 2 photo files of the joints.
The best thing would be to send me your email address in private, and I’ll send you a few more.
Best regards,
Jacquesler
Hello,
I’m leaving Thursday for São Vicente and Santo Antão. Do you have the name of your driver, how many hours you hired them for, and whether they speak French?
We’re a group of five friends, all over 72, and two of us aren’t really into hiking—just short walks. I really admire you for doing all those hikes!
Thanks in advance for your replies.
Françoise
Hi Françoise,
You’re going to have a wonderful trip!
When you mention a "driver," you’re probably referring to the one we hired for the day (9 AM to 4 PM - 6000 CVE - since the island is small and there isn’t necessarily a lot to discover, except stopping in a few villages to meet the locals and having lunch in Calhau) to explore the island of São Vicente.
We just flagged one down on the street, negotiated a bit, and he spoke French well.
Don’t worry, you’ll find plenty of them near the esplanade by the port.
Now that there are 5 of you plus the driver, you’ll likely need a van, which will be a bit more expensive.
I assume you’ll then head to Santo Antão (it’s stunning) – take the Armas ferry company.
Once there, you can call Nonyn (+238 9940766 – everyone uses WhatsApp there) who speaks French well. He’ll pick you up wherever you’re staying (Ribeira Grande is much more central, and all the *collectivos*, taxis, etc., leave from there).
A little tip: when you arrive in Mindelo, exchange your money at a BCA bank on your way down to the port, and most importantly, buy a local SIM card (phone + internet for 1100 CVE) from CV Telecom. That way, you can communicate and call a driver when you need one.
Where will you be staying in Santo Antão?
The hikes are breathtakingly beautiful, and often with only negative elevation changes.
If I had your email address, I could have sent you (via "GrosFichiers") a short 35-minute video to download that would have reassured you.
Best regards,
I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this summer with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I’d read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you’ve done start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too tough on the knees?
Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?
Thanks in advance,
Nolwenn
Hi,
Unlike others, I find Ponta do Sol more pleasant than Ribeira Grande (and I’m not just saying that because I live here!! hahaha!!). But of course, to each their own. I think the seafront is cuter (plus, there isn’t really a proper seafront in RG), and you can swim there when the sea is calm (not the case in RG). So for swimming, it depends on when you’re going. Sure, there are more shops and restaurants in RG, but for a few days, you’ll find what you need in Ponta do Sol too. Personally, I’m not a big fan of shops ;O), and as Jacquesler said, it’s only 10 minutes more by collective, so I’m sure you’ll like Ponta do Sol too. From there, you can easily explore the western part of the island.
The hikes are getting better marked. That doesn’t stop some people from getting lost, though. 😉 But there are some really easy ones.
Knees? Some hikes are pretty steep. Jacquesler says "hikes are mostly downhill." Of course, it always depends on the direction you take!! I prefer going up rather than down because I’m worried about my knees on the descent.
For exchanging money, I’d recommend a bank or exchange bureau. Otherwise, if you pay directly in euros, you’ll lose out on the exchange rate.
Welcome to Cape Verde!
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hello,
just a small correction: Ribeira Grande isn't the capital. The capital of Cape Verde is Praia on Santiago. And the largest city on Santo Antão is Porto Novo. As for the region (Conselho) of Ribeira Grande, the administration is split between Povoação (the town of Ribeira Grande) and Ponta do Sol.
But you're right, it's the commercial and transport hub of the area.
Anyway, thanks for your travel journal and all the info you shared.
Best regards,
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi Jacquesler,
Thanks for this awesome travel journal.
Are there any hikes with a low negative elevation drop (max -500m) on the island of Santo Antão?
Thanks,
Laëtitia
Hi there,
It's true that there’s still quite a bit of elevation change here.
But you can also do the hikes mostly downhill. I prefer going uphill to save my knees, but descending is often easier for those who aren’t used to it. Otherwise, yes, there are a few hikes/walks with minimal elevation change: Ponta do Sol-Fontainhas; Coculi-Figueiral-Joao Afonso; Ribeira da Torre; a tour around Val de Paul....
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi there,
Love your trip report with all those handy details—just what I’m looking for!
We’re planning to go next January/February. I’m checking flights from Lyon and can’t decide between Transavia and TAP. The connections aren’t super convenient, so I think we’ll break it up with an overnight in Lisbon on the way there (and back), then head to Mindelo before taking a ferry to Santo Antão, where we plan to stay the longest.
We’re mainly going for hiking. Are you thinking Santiago is worth it for that?
I’ll come back to ask for more info if you’re up for it!
Hello Jean-Michel!
I’ll cut to the chase since it was my destination this summer too (another delayed travel journal…), but I can share my thoughts.
We also left from Lyon, with TAP, a quick layover in Barcelona, and landed in Praia.
Is Santiago worth a visit? Yes, a thousand times yes.
Three main points of interest on the island:
- Praia, the capital, bustling and surprising, the heart of Cape Verde’s engine.
- Assomada and the surrounding area, a hiking paradise (though often cloudy).
- Tarrafal, in the north, the best spot for beach time while staying close to the locals.
After that, it all depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because logistics there can mean long and unpredictable transfers—you’ll need some buffer time.
The ideal plan would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Thanks Bruno, that’s really nice of you.
I’ll check via Barcelona (I didn’t know about that stopover) because via Lisbon the schedules aren’t convenient unless I book two separate tickets. With Transavia, it’s almost half the price for Mindelo.
After that, it obviously depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because the logistics there can involve long and unpredictable transfers—you need some buffer time.
The ideal would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.
We’re not limited on time, but beach resorts don’t really appeal to us—maybe a day or two max. Same for cities.
We’re mostly into rugged landscapes with some vegetation (at least a little), not just volcanic terrain (like Fogo or Lanzarote), and accommodations in inland villages as a priority.
I initially thought about arriving and leaving from Mindelo to go to Santo Antão, but we might explore that island quickly, so landing in Praia could be a good idea.
If you remember any nice places to stay (good value for money) in São Vicente, Santo Antão, or even Praia, I’d love to hear about them.
Did you do Praia-Mindelo by ferry or by plane?
Have a great day.
Hi there,
In winter, Transavia operates direct flights from Paris to São Vicente if that helps.
And EasyJet is quite recent.
For Santiago? I’d say it really depends on the overall length of your trip. Inter-island transfers here are always a bit unpredictable, so always allow some extra time.
If you’ve got 2 weeks, I think SV + SA is already amazing! If you’ve got 3 weeks, then maybe consider another island.
Personally, I’m not a huge fan of Santiago, but there are still some really gorgeous spots!! But I feel less at ease there, I’d say. I went back in June for a few days between Fogo/Brava and Maio, but my impression was still pretty much the same.
But as others have mentioned, you could opt for a multi-city flight that lets you land on one island (e.g., Santiago) and leave from another (e.g., São Vicente).
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Thanks Bruno, that's really nice of you.
I'll check via Barcelona (I didn't know about that stopover) because via Lisbon the schedules aren't convenient unless I book two separate tickets. With Transavia, it's almost half the price to get to Mindelo.
After that, it obviously depends on how much time you'll spend in Cape Verde, because the logistics there can involve long and unpredictable transfers—you need some flexibility.
The ideal would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.
We're not limited on time, but beach resorts don't really appeal to us—maybe a day or two max. Same for cities.
We're mostly into rugged landscapes with some vegetation (at least a little), not just volcanic terrain (like Fogo or Lanzarote), and we'd prioritize accommodations in inland villages.
I initially thought about arriving and leaving from Mindelo to go to Santo Antão, but we might explore that island pretty quickly, so landing in Praia could be a good idea.
If you remember any nice places to stay (good value for money) in São Vicente, Santo Antão, or even Praia, I'd love to hear about them.
Did you do Praia-Mindelo by ferry or by plane?
Have a great day.
You can easily spend 2 weeks in Santo Antão without getting bored! ;O))
Especially if you love hiking and valleys with vegetation.
On Santo Antão, you can aim for several accommodations in different parts of the island or do a bit of traveling around.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
In winter, Transavia offers direct flights from Paris to São Vicente if needed. And EasyJet is quite recent.
Yes, but I'm closer to Lyon. Actually, I was talking about Transavia but meant EasyJet.
Price-wise, it's much more interesting than with TAT. With both airlines, you have to make an overnight stopover (on the way there) in Lisbon.
I don't think TAT offers a hotel night. With EasyJet, don't even think about it. And the departure is at 6 AM!
If you have 2 weeks, I think SV+SA is already great! If you have 3 weeks, then why not consider another island indeed
I have as much time as I want, but beyond ten days on the same island, maybe that's enough? I'm mainly interested in hikes, but I don't want to overdo it either... and I'm not really drawn to desert islands. Fogo? I prefer islands with vegetation, canyons, and rugged terrain.
But as others mention, you can opt for a multi-city flight that lets you land on one island (e.g., Santiago) and leave from another (e.g., São Vicente).
I think I'll go for a flight from Lyon to Lisbon to São Vicente and return from Praia to Lisbon to Lyon.
You can easily spend 2 weeks without getting bored on Santo Antão! ;O)))
Especially if you like hiking and valleys with vegetation.
On Santo Antão, you can aim for several accommodations in different parts of the island or do a multi-stop trip.
It'll be day hikes...
I think you know Santo Antão pretty well. I'll get back to you for some info.
First priority: accommodations (inland?) to potentially find circuits (loops) that don't require too much transport.
If you have different accommodations to recommend, I'm all ears.
One question: Do the ferries between the islands work well?... When the sea isn't rough 😉 Should I allow extra time in case of cancellations?
>>Yes, but I’m closer to Lyon.
Depending on where you are, you might also want to check flights from Geneva. Sometimes the layover times are better. Worth looking into. I’ve been doing quite a few round trips for 15 years now, and I often opt for a quiet night in Lisbon to ensure my flight to Cape Verde the next day because layovers are often *super* short. Otherwise, I’d take a chance with back-to-back flights on TAP, and if there’s ever an issue, TAP’s customer service is pretty good (can’t say the same for other airlines). If I missed my flight to CV, TAP covers everything—hotel, meals, taxi.
>>I’ve got all the time I want, but beyond ten days on the same island, is that enough? I’m mostly into hiking, but I don’t want to overdo it either… and I’m not really into desert islands. Fogo? I prefer places with vegetation, canyons, and rugged terrain.
Got it. It really depends on the island. On Santo Antão, you could easily spend 10 days or more, alternating between hiking, sightseeing, relaxing, and soaking up the local vibe. And if you’ve got time, head all the way to Tarrafal de Monte Trigo.
Fogo? After Santo Antão, it’s my second favorite, tied with Maio! ;O) The volcanic part is pretty desert-like and moon-like, but the atmosphere at the foot of the volcano in Cha das Caldeiras is magical! There are also greener spots, and if you’ve got time, you could aim for Brava!!
>>I’ll be doing day hikes… Priority is accommodations (inland?) to find circuits (loops) that don’t require too much transport.
Day hikes make it tricky to find loops, and you’ll always need *some* transport to get to or from the trails. If you grab the island’s hiking map, you’ll already have a good idea of possible routes.
>>One question: How reliable are the ferries between islands?… When the sea isn’t rough 😉 Should I build in some buffer time in case of cancellations?
Either way—whether it’s flights or ferries—the best advice here is to build in buffer time! ;O)
They work okay but not perfectly, with lots of schedule changes and cancellations. You’ve gotta stay flexible! Between SV and Santo Antão, it’s great—no worries! Between Santiago and Fogo, it’s more or less okay. For the rest, it’s long and unpredictable. Between SV and Santiago, I *strongly* recommend flying!
>>I think you know Santo Antão pretty well. I’ll reach out for more info.
I live there! ;O)
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
>>Yes, but I’m closer to Lyon.
Depending on where you are, you might also want to check flights from Geneva. Sometimes the layover times are better. Worth looking into. I’ve been making quite a few round trips for 15 years now, and I’ve often opted for a quiet night in Lisbon to ensure my flight to Cape Verde the next day because layovers are often *super* short. Otherwise, I’d take a chance with back-to-back flights on TAP, and if there’s ever an issue, TAP’s customer service is actually pretty good (can’t say the same for other airlines). If I missed my flight to CV, TAP covered everything—hotel, meals, taxi.
I can save Jean-Michel some time here because I faced the same question in July, usually flying out of Geneva: prices were prohibitive, almost double at the time. Not to mention the insane parking costs, and getting to Geneva from Lyon by train is another hassle... I’ll admit I played it like Marie—1h40 layover (with boarding doors closing 40 minutes early) in Lisbon from Lyon on a single TAP ticket. There was still another flight to Cape Verde later, and honestly, a night on the airline’s dime wouldn’t have been the worst!
Just don’t try this with EasyJet—guaranteed night at the airport!
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
I think I’ve found the perfect deal. Since I live between Lyon and Marseille, I’ll leave from Marseille because Transavia has direct flights to Praia. Way more convenient than going through Lisbon, where you’d have to do an overnight layover with a departure at 6 AM the next day!
Hi there,
If you have any ideas for hiking starting points (on Santo Antão) and places to stay that are as close as possible to these starting points, I’d love to hear them!
Hi there!
As a base for exploring, you could consider:
-Ponta do Sol: First off, you can swim there, which is rare on Santo Antão. It’s also the starting point for the coastal hike to Cruzinha/Cha d'Igreja (return by car or fishing boat). From Ponta do Sol, it’s easy to head to Ribeira da Torre (Xoxo hike) or explore the hikes around the Ribeira Grande valley and nearby areas—like Coculi, Figueiral, Cha de Pedras, Caibros, etc.
There are plenty of accommodation options here (Booking or Airbnb), but for cozy family-run guesthouses, check out Chez Sissi, Casa Celeste, or BB Djassi, for example.
-Val de Paul: Perfect for hikes on this side—Figueiral de Paul, the Cova crater (doable from Ponta do Sol too, via the famous Corda road, for instance). Down in Vila das Pombas, you’ll find affordable guesthouses like Misourino, Aldeia Jerome, Oasis, or Luz d'Sol. Higher up in Val de Paul, there’s Sandro’s guesthouse, which is great for hikers. For something a bit fancier, try Aldeia Panoramica, Aldeia Manga, or Kaza d'Vizin, etc.
-You could also stay up in the hills, like at Casa Espongeiro near Espongeiro, for walks around Lagoa or Pico da Cruz, or for hikes down to Coculi or Cha de Pedras. But it’s less convenient for exploring since you’ll need to arrange transport to get back up after your hikes.
-Ribeira das Patas/Cha de Morte on the other side of the island: Chez Suzy, Chez Lizy... From there, you can head to Alto Mira or the Norte plateau via Bordeira.
-Tarrafal: Cantinho da Preta
I highly recommend getting the official hiking map (if it’s not sold out) — it really helps with orientation and gives you a great overview of the hikes. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi there,
I just booked our flight tickets for January, departing from Marseille. Direct round-trip flights.
Outbound: Marseille/Praia and return: Sal/Marseille with Transavia, priced at 378 € per person including one checked bag.
I just realized that domestic flights aren’t exactly cheap, though!
Can you confirm that overnight ferries no longer exist?
That was going to be such a great solution for us...
No wasted time.
Otherwise, have you ever taken these ferries anywhere other than São Vicente/Santo Antão?
They seem to be running normally, right?
They post the schedules and fares on their website..
But I really recommend getting (if it’s not out of stock) the official hiking map—it really helps a lot with orientation and getting an overall view of the hikes.
No, 4 weeks! Departure January 10th, return February 7th.😉
By the way, did you book your domestic flights directly with the Cape Verdean airline (which one, by the way?) because I could only find them (simulations) through intermediaries like eDreams, and I'm not too keen on that!
I'd like to do Santiago / Fogo / São Vicente / Santo Antão / Sal, where I have my return flight to Marseille.
Okay, you reassure me—4 weeks, you’ll have plenty of time!
I’d booked everything in advance, making sure to leave enough wiggle room to cover any possible delays or cancellations.
Never through platforms, always direct. I even changed a flight once I was there.
https://www.caboverdeairlines.com/
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Thanks! Actually, I had seen it but thought that company had gone out of business!
Do you think it’s modifiable after booking? For an extra fee, I assume?
I’d quite like to do Santiago/Fogo by ferry if it’s not more unpredictable than the plane... but in that case, I’d need to go back through Praia by plane (Fogo/Praia/São Vicente)...
Thanks! Actually, I had seen it but thought this airline had gone out of business!
Do you think it's modifiable after booking? For an extra fee, I suppose?
I changed a flight once—it cost me 35 € for 2. But that was in July, so there were seats available on the flights.
I’d quite like to do Santiago/Fogo by ferry if it’s not more unpredictable than the plane... but in that case, I’d need to go back through Praia by plane: Fogo/Praia/São Vicente...
I don’t have any info on Fogo—you’ll have to ask Marie. But in the travel journals, a lot of people do take the round-trip ferry.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux."
Marcel Proust
Hello,
I just booked our flight tickets for January, departing from Marseille. Direct round-trip flights.
Outbound Marseille/Praia and return Sal/Marseille with Transavia, fare 378 € per person including 1 checked bag.
I just realized that domestic flights aren’t cheap, though!
Can you confirm that overnight ferries no longer exist?
That used to be such a great solution for us...
No time wasted.
Otherwise, have you ever taken these ferries other than São Vicente/Santo Antão?
They seem to run normally, don’t they?
They list the schedules and fares on their website...
Hi Jean Michel,
Yep, internal flights aren’t cheap at all.
For ferries, check the CV Interilhas website. They don’t always run at night (often rescheduled, delayed, or canceled...), and even when they do, you don’t really sleep on them!! So it’s a bit of a time and energy drain, especially since I get seasick!!
They don’t run too badly, but it’s a bit unpredictable: rough seas, ferry breakdowns, etc.... So you always need some wiggle room and, most importantly, flexibility! ;O) And January/February is when the sea is roughest.
On the bright side, it’s also the time when we might get the "Bruma Seca," the haze from Sahara sand, which can even prevent planes from landing or taking off!!! Hahahaha!!! Anyway, you’ve got to stay flexible no matter what!!
To answer your question: yes, I’ve taken these ferries several times (SV-SN or Santiago-Fogo, Fogo-Maio...), and I’ll admit that now, unless there’s no flight option (SV-SA or Fogo-Brava), I’d rather fly!!
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
But I really recommend getting (if it’s not out of stock) the official hiking map—it really helps you get your bearings and see the big picture of the hikes.
I usually use apps (Komoot, Wikiloc, etc.) on my phone, but yeah, a map does give a better overview. So which one do you recommend? What brand or edition? What’s the "8" about?
Otherwise, is it this one: AB Karten hiking map for Cape Verde – Santo Antão 2024?
I don’t use any apps—I’m old-school! ;O)
Yep, that’s the right map. Beyond giving a good overview, it makes a great souvenir! ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
No, 4 weeks! Departure January 10th, return February 7th.😉
By the way, did you book your domestic flights directly with the Cape Verdean airline (which one, by the way?) because I could only find them through intermediaries like eDreams, and I’m not too keen on that!
I’d like to do Santiago / Fogo / São Vicente / Santo Antão / Sal, where I have my return flight to Marseille.
Book directly with Cabo Verde Airlines—don’t go through intermediaries, it’s already complicated enough as it is.
You can run all your simulations on their site, flight by flight.
It’s a long story, the history of this airline and, for that matter, all the airlines that have operated here to handle flights (Binter, Best Fly, etc.). The inter-island transfers here are a real mess!!!
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Thanks for your replies. For my part, the ferry isn’t an issue except for the trip duration if it’s during the day and if they cancel too often. At night, I sleep fine, but I haven’t seen any nighttime schedules—that’s what worries me. Actually, I thought there was less risk of cancellation with the ferry than with the plane, precisely because of poor visibility.
I’ll think about all this.
Thanks for your replies. For my part, the ferry doesn’t bother me except for the trip duration if it’s during the day and if they cancel too often. At night I sleep fine, but I haven’t seen any nighttime schedules—that’s what worries me. Actually, I also thought there was less risk of cancellation with the ferry than with the plane, precisely because of poor visibility.
I’ll think about all this.
hmm... well... both are a bit unpredictable... and the sea is pretty un-pre-dict-able.
Night trips are rare unless you’re really doing Santiago-BV-Sal-SN-SV!!!!
I took the Brava-Fogo ferry at 3 AM in June because of delays. We were supposed to leave at 2 PM, then pushed back to 11 PM... and finally left at 3 AM!!! hahaha! Awesome arriving in Fogo at 4 AM!!![;]
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hi there,
I’ve got another little question about hikes on Santo Antão.
Looking at different routes saved on apps like Wikiloc, I’ve noticed some crazy elevation gains. It seems like GPS devices go a bit haywire on the island—probably due to Santo Antão’s terrain (canyons, peaks, etc.).
For example, the coastal route from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinhas shows over 2,000 m of elevation gain, even though the highest point doesn’t exceed 200 m… Sure, it’s constantly up and down, but that still seems like a lot! Personally, I’d estimate around 700 m—what do you think?
I’ve even seen some day hikes listed with 3,000 m of elevation gain! I’m up for 1,200 m, but 3,000 m? No way!😏
Hi there,
I have no experience with apps and such.
But I can confirm that the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike is roughly 700-800 m ascent/700-800 m descent.
As for the 3,000 m of elevation gain, that seems like a lot, but maybe experienced hikers combine several stages in one? It all depends on the route.
Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Je fais appel aux globe trotter parents qui ont eu l'occasion d'aller au Cap Vert. Nous avons jeté notre dévolu sur le Cap Vert comme notre premier voyage avec…
Nous aimerions partir en janvier pour du repos, du soleil et de la baignade avec nos deux enfants de quatre ans et 18 mois. Nous étions fortement interessés…
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie