18 days in Cape Verde in January 2025
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
JA
Hello, We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it. Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp. We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day). Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão. From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes. We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking. The hikes were stunning: - The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE) - The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return) - The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE) - The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip. Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow. We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*. Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE. Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €. We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located. One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach. We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia. On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen. We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals. Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us. Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving. We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants. We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse. Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats! We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find). We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*. For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*. On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access. Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe. If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond. Jacquesler.
LI LillieoneFE Veteran ·
" ce ne peut être que la fin du monde en avançant " A.Rimbaud
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi there,

I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this January with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you did start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too hard on the knees?

Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?

Thanks in advance! Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi Nolwen, As soon as I arrived in Mindelo, I headed to the bank to exchange euros for escudos—no problem at a rate of 1 € for 110 CVE, though there was a short wait, but hey, we're in Cape Verde. Then I bought a local SIM card for 1100 CVE (10 €)—super handy for calling a taxi and so much more. I didn’t find anything extraordinary in Ponta do Sol compared to Ribeira Grande, except that prices are much higher there. Either way, if you want to hike, you’ll first need a *collectivo* to get to Ribeira Grande, then another one or a taxi to reach the main hiking spots like Cova, Corda, Coculi, etc. In Ribeira Grande, there’s a great selection of restaurants, shops, etc., and even though it’s the capital, the town is small. We really appreciated staying in Ribeira rather than Ponta do Sol, but it’s up to you. Yes, the hikes are well-marked. If you have Maps.me and downloaded Cape Verde before your trip, you’ll have all the routes mapped out to the meter. I’m almost 79 and didn’t have any knee pain—just a few minor aches in the morning that disappeared after a few steps. Cheers, Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Thanks for your feedback. I have maps.me on my phone since I won’t have internet. Do I need to download the Cape Verde map before I leave, or can I install it once I have Wi-Fi on site?

Thanks in advance, Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi, Of course, you should download the map of Cape Verde before you leave or once you're there when you're connected to Wi-Fi. This lets you plan your trip, your spots, your restaurants, the *aluguers*, etc. See the attached screenshot. Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi,

I don’t see the attached screenshot.

Thanks in advance! Nolwenn
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi, Sorry, but when I sent it, there were indeed 2 photo files of the joints. The best thing would be to send me your email address in private, and I’ll send you a few more. Best regards, Jacquesler
NO Nonorigole Regular ·
Hi,

Here’s my email address: nolwennisma@yahoo.fr

Thanks in advance
QU Quensol ·
Hello, I’m leaving Thursday for São Vicente and Santo Antão. Do you have the name of your driver, how many hours you hired them for, and whether they speak French? We’re a group of five friends, all over 72, and two of us aren’t really into hiking—just short walks. I really admire you for doing all those hikes! Thanks in advance for your replies. Françoise
JA Jacquesler ·
Hi Françoise, You’re going to have a wonderful trip! When you mention a "driver," you’re probably referring to the one we hired for the day (9 AM to 4 PM - 6000 CVE - since the island is small and there isn’t necessarily a lot to discover, except stopping in a few villages to meet the locals and having lunch in Calhau) to explore the island of São Vicente. We just flagged one down on the street, negotiated a bit, and he spoke French well. Don’t worry, you’ll find plenty of them near the esplanade by the port. Now that there are 5 of you plus the driver, you’ll likely need a van, which will be a bit more expensive. I assume you’ll then head to Santo Antão (it’s stunning) – take the Armas ferry company. Once there, you can call Nonyn (+238 9940766 – everyone uses WhatsApp there) who speaks French well. He’ll pick you up wherever you’re staying (Ribeira Grande is much more central, and all the *collectivos*, taxis, etc., leave from there). A little tip: when you arrive in Mindelo, exchange your money at a BCA bank on your way down to the port, and most importantly, buy a local SIM card (phone + internet for 1100 CVE) from CV Telecom. That way, you can communicate and call a driver when you need one. Where will you be staying in Santo Antão? The hikes are breathtakingly beautiful, and often with only negative elevation changes. If I had your email address, I could have sent you (via "GrosFichiers") a short 35-minute video to download that would have reassured you. Best regards,

photo of the Bank
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello,

I’m heading to Cape Verde for three weeks this summer with a friend. We’re staying in Ponta do Sol. I’d read that it’s the nicest place to stay. And we’re planning to take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande. Did all the hikes you’ve done start from Ribeira Grande? Are they well-marked? And not too tough on the knees?

Were you able to exchange euros for escudos easily?

Thanks in advance, Nolwenn

Hi, Unlike others, I find Ponta do Sol more pleasant than Ribeira Grande (and I’m not just saying that because I live here!! hahaha!!). But of course, to each their own. I think the seafront is cuter (plus, there isn’t really a proper seafront in RG), and you can swim there when the sea is calm (not the case in RG). So for swimming, it depends on when you’re going. Sure, there are more shops and restaurants in RG, but for a few days, you’ll find what you need in Ponta do Sol too. Personally, I’m not a big fan of shops ;O), and as Jacquesler said, it’s only 10 minutes more by collective, so I’m sure you’ll like Ponta do Sol too. From there, you can easily explore the western part of the island. The hikes are getting better marked. That doesn’t stop some people from getting lost, though. 😉 But there are some really easy ones. Knees? Some hikes are pretty steep. Jacquesler says "hikes are mostly downhill." Of course, it always depends on the direction you take!! I prefer going up rather than down because I’m worried about my knees on the descent. For exchanging money, I’d recommend a bank or exchange bureau. Otherwise, if you pay directly in euros, you’ll lose out on the exchange rate. Welcome to Cape Verde! Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello, just a small correction: Ribeira Grande isn't the capital. The capital of Cape Verde is Praia on Santiago. And the largest city on Santo Antão is Porto Novo. As for the region (Conselho) of Ribeira Grande, the administration is split between Povoação (the town of Ribeira Grande) and Ponta do Sol. But you're right, it's the commercial and transport hub of the area. Anyway, thanks for your travel journal and all the info you shared. Best regards, Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
LA Laetiz Regular ·
Hi Jacquesler, Thanks for this awesome travel journal. Are there any hikes with a low negative elevation drop (max -500m) on the island of Santo Antão? Thanks, Laëtitia
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there, It's true that there’s still quite a bit of elevation change here. But you can also do the hikes mostly downhill. I prefer going uphill to save my knees, but descending is often easier for those who aren’t used to it. Otherwise, yes, there are a few hikes/walks with minimal elevation change: Ponta do Sol-Fontainhas; Coculi-Figueiral-Joao Afonso; Ribeira da Torre; a tour around Val de Paul....
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, Love your trip report with all those handy details—just what I’m looking for! We’re planning to go next January/February. I’m checking flights from Lyon and can’t decide between Transavia and TAP. The connections aren’t super convenient, so I think we’ll break it up with an overnight in Lisbon on the way there (and back), then head to Mindelo before taking a ferry to Santo Antão, where we plan to stay the longest. We’re mainly going for hiking. Are you thinking Santiago is worth it for that? I’ll come back to ask for more info if you’re up for it!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hello Jean-Michel! I’ll cut to the chase since it was my destination this summer too (another delayed travel journal…), but I can share my thoughts.

We also left from Lyon, with TAP, a quick layover in Barcelona, and landed in Praia.

Is Santiago worth a visit? Yes, a thousand times yes. Three main points of interest on the island: - Praia, the capital, bustling and surprising, the heart of Cape Verde’s engine. - Assomada and the surrounding area, a hiking paradise (though often cloudy). - Tarrafal, in the north, the best spot for beach time while staying close to the locals.

After that, it all depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because logistics there can mean long and unpredictable transfers—you’ll need some buffer time. The ideal plan would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Thanks Bruno, that’s really nice of you. I’ll check via Barcelona (I didn’t know about that stopover) because via Lisbon the schedules aren’t convenient unless I book two separate tickets. With Transavia, it’s almost half the price for Mindelo.

After that, it obviously depends on how much time you’ll spend in Cape Verde, because the logistics there can involve long and unpredictable transfers—you need some buffer time. The ideal would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.

We’re not limited on time, but beach resorts don’t really appeal to us—maybe a day or two max. Same for cities. We’re mostly into rugged landscapes with some vegetation (at least a little), not just volcanic terrain (like Fogo or Lanzarote), and accommodations in inland villages as a priority. I initially thought about arriving and leaving from Mindelo to go to Santo Antão, but we might explore that island quickly, so landing in Praia could be a good idea. If you remember any nice places to stay (good value for money) in São Vicente, Santo Antão, or even Praia, I’d love to hear about them. Did you do Praia-Mindelo by ferry or by plane? Have a great day.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
I’ll look into accommodations. But oops, my bad—I meant Lisbon, not Barcelona! 😅🤦 😇 🤪
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
No worries, I also mentioned Lanzarote, which isn’t in Cape Verde! :( And Transavia instead of easyJet!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
LA Laetiz Regular ·
Thanks Ptitortue! It’s the descents I’m worried about because of my knees. Thanks for the hiking names—I’ll check those out.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there, In winter, Transavia operates direct flights from Paris to São Vicente if that helps. And EasyJet is quite recent. For Santiago? I’d say it really depends on the overall length of your trip. Inter-island transfers here are always a bit unpredictable, so always allow some extra time. If you’ve got 2 weeks, I think SV + SA is already amazing! If you’ve got 3 weeks, then maybe consider another island. Personally, I’m not a huge fan of Santiago, but there are still some really gorgeous spots!! But I feel less at ease there, I’d say. I went back in June for a few days between Fogo/Brava and Maio, but my impression was still pretty much the same. But as others have mentioned, you could opt for a multi-city flight that lets you land on one island (e.g., Santiago) and leave from another (e.g., São Vicente). Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Thanks Bruno, that's really nice of you. I'll check via Barcelona (I didn't know about that stopover) because via Lisbon the schedules aren't convenient unless I book two separate tickets. With Transavia, it's almost half the price to get to Mindelo.

After that, it obviously depends on how much time you'll spend in Cape Verde, because the logistics there can involve long and unpredictable transfers—you need some flexibility. The ideal would be landing in Praia, transferring to Santo Antão (via Mindelo), and returning from São Vicente.

We're not limited on time, but beach resorts don't really appeal to us—maybe a day or two max. Same for cities. We're mostly into rugged landscapes with some vegetation (at least a little), not just volcanic terrain (like Fogo or Lanzarote), and we'd prioritize accommodations in inland villages. I initially thought about arriving and leaving from Mindelo to go to Santo Antão, but we might explore that island pretty quickly, so landing in Praia could be a good idea. If you remember any nice places to stay (good value for money) in São Vicente, Santo Antão, or even Praia, I'd love to hear about them. Did you do Praia-Mindelo by ferry or by plane? Have a great day.

You can easily spend 2 weeks in Santo Antão without getting bored! ;O)) Especially if you love hiking and valleys with vegetation. On Santo Antão, you can aim for several accommodations in different parts of the island or do a bit of traveling around. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hello,

In winter, Transavia offers direct flights from Paris to São Vicente if needed. And EasyJet is quite recent.

Yes, but I'm closer to Lyon. Actually, I was talking about Transavia but meant EasyJet. Price-wise, it's much more interesting than with TAT. With both airlines, you have to make an overnight stopover (on the way there) in Lisbon. I don't think TAT offers a hotel night. With EasyJet, don't even think about it. And the departure is at 6 AM!

If you have 2 weeks, I think SV+SA is already great! If you have 3 weeks, then why not consider another island indeed

I have as much time as I want, but beyond ten days on the same island, maybe that's enough? I'm mainly interested in hikes, but I don't want to overdo it either... and I'm not really drawn to desert islands. Fogo? I prefer islands with vegetation, canyons, and rugged terrain.

But as others mention, you can opt for a multi-city flight that lets you land on one island (e.g., Santiago) and leave from another (e.g., São Vicente).

I think I'll go for a flight from Lyon to Lisbon to São Vicente and return from Praia to Lisbon to Lyon.

You can easily spend 2 weeks without getting bored on Santo Antão! ;O))) Especially if you like hiking and valleys with vegetation. On Santo Antão, you can aim for several accommodations in different parts of the island or do a multi-stop trip.

It'll be day hikes... I think you know Santo Antão pretty well. I'll get back to you for some info. First priority: accommodations (inland?) to potentially find circuits (loops) that don't require too much transport. If you have different accommodations to recommend, I'm all ears. One question: Do the ferries between the islands work well?... When the sea isn't rough 😉 Should I allow extra time in case of cancellations?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi Jean-Michel

>>Yes, but I’m closer to Lyon. Depending on where you are, you might also want to check flights from Geneva. Sometimes the layover times are better. Worth looking into. I’ve been doing quite a few round trips for 15 years now, and I often opt for a quiet night in Lisbon to ensure my flight to Cape Verde the next day because layovers are often *super* short. Otherwise, I’d take a chance with back-to-back flights on TAP, and if there’s ever an issue, TAP’s customer service is pretty good (can’t say the same for other airlines). If I missed my flight to CV, TAP covers everything—hotel, meals, taxi.

>>I’ve got all the time I want, but beyond ten days on the same island, is that enough? I’m mostly into hiking, but I don’t want to overdo it either… and I’m not really into desert islands. Fogo? I prefer places with vegetation, canyons, and rugged terrain.

Got it. It really depends on the island. On Santo Antão, you could easily spend 10 days or more, alternating between hiking, sightseeing, relaxing, and soaking up the local vibe. And if you’ve got time, head all the way to Tarrafal de Monte Trigo. Fogo? After Santo Antão, it’s my second favorite, tied with Maio! ;O) The volcanic part is pretty desert-like and moon-like, but the atmosphere at the foot of the volcano in Cha das Caldeiras is magical! There are also greener spots, and if you’ve got time, you could aim for Brava!!

>>I’ll be doing day hikes… Priority is accommodations (inland?) to find circuits (loops) that don’t require too much transport.

Day hikes make it tricky to find loops, and you’ll always need *some* transport to get to or from the trails. If you grab the island’s hiking map, you’ll already have a good idea of possible routes.

>>One question: How reliable are the ferries between islands?… When the sea isn’t rough 😉 Should I build in some buffer time in case of cancellations?

Either way—whether it’s flights or ferries—the best advice here is to build in buffer time! ;O) They work okay but not perfectly, with lots of schedule changes and cancellations. You’ve gotta stay flexible! Between SV and Santo Antão, it’s great—no worries! Between Santiago and Fogo, it’s more or less okay. For the rest, it’s long and unpredictable. Between SV and Santiago, I *strongly* recommend flying!

>>I think you know Santo Antão pretty well. I’ll reach out for more info.

I live there! ;O) Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hi Jean-Michel

>>Yes, but I’m closer to Lyon. Depending on where you are, you might also want to check flights from Geneva. Sometimes the layover times are better. Worth looking into. I’ve been making quite a few round trips for 15 years now, and I’ve often opted for a quiet night in Lisbon to ensure my flight to Cape Verde the next day because layovers are often *super* short. Otherwise, I’d take a chance with back-to-back flights on TAP, and if there’s ever an issue, TAP’s customer service is actually pretty good (can’t say the same for other airlines). If I missed my flight to CV, TAP covered everything—hotel, meals, taxi.

I can save Jean-Michel some time here because I faced the same question in July, usually flying out of Geneva: prices were prohibitive, almost double at the time. Not to mention the insane parking costs, and getting to Geneva from Lyon by train is another hassle... I’ll admit I played it like Marie—1h40 layover (with boarding doors closing 40 minutes early) in Lisbon from Lyon on a single TAP ticket. There was still another flight to Cape Verde later, and honestly, a night on the airline’s dime wouldn’t have been the worst! Just don’t try this with EasyJet—guaranteed night at the airport!
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
I think I’ve found the perfect deal. Since I live between Lyon and Marseille, I’ll leave from Marseille because Transavia has direct flights to Praia. Way more convenient than going through Lisbon, where you’d have to do an overnight layover with a departure at 6 AM the next day!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, If you have any ideas for hiking starting points (on Santo Antão) and places to stay that are as close as possible to these starting points, I’d love to hear them!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there! As a base for exploring, you could consider: -Ponta do Sol: First off, you can swim there, which is rare on Santo Antão. It’s also the starting point for the coastal hike to Cruzinha/Cha d'Igreja (return by car or fishing boat). From Ponta do Sol, it’s easy to head to Ribeira da Torre (Xoxo hike) or explore the hikes around the Ribeira Grande valley and nearby areas—like Coculi, Figueiral, Cha de Pedras, Caibros, etc. There are plenty of accommodation options here (Booking or Airbnb), but for cozy family-run guesthouses, check out Chez Sissi, Casa Celeste, or BB Djassi, for example.

-Val de Paul: Perfect for hikes on this side—Figueiral de Paul, the Cova crater (doable from Ponta do Sol too, via the famous Corda road, for instance). Down in Vila das Pombas, you’ll find affordable guesthouses like Misourino, Aldeia Jerome, Oasis, or Luz d'Sol. Higher up in Val de Paul, there’s Sandro’s guesthouse, which is great for hikers. For something a bit fancier, try Aldeia Panoramica, Aldeia Manga, or Kaza d'Vizin, etc.

-You could also stay up in the hills, like at Casa Espongeiro near Espongeiro, for walks around Lagoa or Pico da Cruz, or for hikes down to Coculi or Cha de Pedras. But it’s less convenient for exploring since you’ll need to arrange transport to get back up after your hikes.

-Ribeira das Patas/Cha de Morte on the other side of the island: Chez Suzy, Chez Lizy... From there, you can head to Alto Mira or the Norte plateau via Bordeira.

-Tarrafal: Cantinho da Preta

I highly recommend getting the official hiking map (if it’s not sold out) — it really helps with orientation and gives you a great overview of the hikes. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Thanks for all this info! I also found this while browsing Komoot: www.komoot.com/fr-fr/highlight/3980002
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hey there :Pousada do Sossego? You know it? visitsantoantao.net/comer-e-dormir/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
replied in the other thread! ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Thanks for all this info! I also found this while browsing Komoot: www.komoot.com/fr-fr/highlight/3980002

Yeah, one easy loop and two loops that are already a really good level. But there are some great sections along the road.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Yes, an easy loop and two loops that are already quite challenging. But there are some great sections along the way.

Thanks
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I just booked our flight tickets for January, departing from Marseille. Direct round-trip flights. Outbound: Marseille/Praia and return: Sal/Marseille with Transavia, priced at 378 € per person including one checked bag. I just realized that domestic flights aren’t exactly cheap, though! Can you confirm that overnight ferries no longer exist? That was going to be such a great solution for us... No wasted time. Otherwise, have you ever taken these ferries anywhere other than São Vicente/Santo Antão? They seem to be running normally, right? They post the schedules and fares on their website..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
But I really recommend getting (if it’s not out of stock) the official hiking map—it really helps a lot with orientation and getting an overall view of the hikes.

I usually rely on apps (Komoot, Wikiloc, etc.) on my phone, but yeah, a map does give a better overall view. Which one do you recommend, then? What brand or edition? And what’s the "8" about? Otherwise, is this the one: https://www.librairie-voyage.com/ab-karten-carte-de-randonnees-cap-vert-santo-antao-2024.html?srsltid=AfmBOoolMLbKMBGwB1iks4b5CLuFE5ePiM80PJORtOnVeTIS4AehW-H5
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hello,

Marseille/Praia and return Sal/Marseille with Transavia for 378 € per person including 1 checked bag.

Not a bad price! But I hope you’ve planned at least 3 weeks because you’ve just added another island—and another transfer...
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
No, 4 weeks! Departure January 10th, return February 7th.😉 By the way, did you book your domestic flights directly with the Cape Verdean airline (which one, by the way?) because I could only find them (simulations) through intermediaries like eDreams, and I'm not too keen on that!

I'd like to do Santiago / Fogo / São Vicente / Santo Antão / Sal, where I have my return flight to Marseille.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Okay, you reassure me—4 weeks, you’ll have plenty of time! I’d booked everything in advance, making sure to leave enough wiggle room to cover any possible delays or cancellations. Never through platforms, always direct. I even changed a flight once I was there. https://www.caboverdeairlines.com/
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Thanks! Actually, I had seen it but thought that company had gone out of business! Do you think it’s modifiable after booking? For an extra fee, I assume? I’d quite like to do Santiago/Fogo by ferry if it’s not more unpredictable than the plane... but in that case, I’d need to go back through Praia by plane (Fogo/Praia/São Vicente)...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Thanks! Actually, I had seen it but thought this airline had gone out of business! Do you think it's modifiable after booking? For an extra fee, I suppose?

I changed a flight once—it cost me 35 € for 2. But that was in July, so there were seats available on the flights.

I’d quite like to do Santiago/Fogo by ferry if it’s not more unpredictable than the plane... but in that case, I’d need to go back through Praia by plane: Fogo/Praia/São Vicente...

I don’t have any info on Fogo—you’ll have to ask Marie. But in the travel journals, a lot of people do take the round-trip ferry.
"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello, I just booked our flight tickets for January, departing from Marseille. Direct round-trip flights. Outbound Marseille/Praia and return Sal/Marseille with Transavia, fare 378 € per person including 1 checked bag. I just realized that domestic flights aren’t cheap, though! Can you confirm that overnight ferries no longer exist? That used to be such a great solution for us... No time wasted. Otherwise, have you ever taken these ferries other than São Vicente/Santo Antão? They seem to run normally, don’t they? They list the schedules and fares on their website...

Hi Jean Michel, Yep, internal flights aren’t cheap at all. For ferries, check the CV Interilhas website. They don’t always run at night (often rescheduled, delayed, or canceled...), and even when they do, you don’t really sleep on them!! So it’s a bit of a time and energy drain, especially since I get seasick!! They don’t run too badly, but it’s a bit unpredictable: rough seas, ferry breakdowns, etc.... So you always need some wiggle room and, most importantly, flexibility! ;O) And January/February is when the sea is roughest. On the bright side, it’s also the time when we might get the "Bruma Seca," the haze from Sahara sand, which can even prevent planes from landing or taking off!!! Hahahaha!!! Anyway, you’ve got to stay flexible no matter what!! To answer your question: yes, I’ve taken these ferries several times (SV-SN or Santiago-Fogo, Fogo-Maio...), and I’ll admit that now, unless there’s no flight option (SV-SA or Fogo-Brava), I’d rather fly!! Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
But I really recommend getting (if it’s not out of stock) the official hiking map—it really helps you get your bearings and see the big picture of the hikes.

I usually use apps (Komoot, Wikiloc, etc.) on my phone, but yeah, a map does give a better overview. So which one do you recommend? What brand or edition? What’s the "8" about? Otherwise, is it this one: AB Karten hiking map for Cape Verde – Santo Antão 2024?

I don’t use any apps—I’m old-school! ;O) Yep, that’s the right map. Beyond giving a good overview, it makes a great souvenir! ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
No, 4 weeks! Departure January 10th, return February 7th.😉 By the way, did you book your domestic flights directly with the Cape Verdean airline (which one, by the way?) because I could only find them through intermediaries like eDreams, and I’m not too keen on that!

I’d like to do Santiago / Fogo / São Vicente / Santo Antão / Sal, where I have my return flight to Marseille.

Book directly with Cabo Verde Airlines—don’t go through intermediaries, it’s already complicated enough as it is. You can run all your simulations on their site, flight by flight. It’s a long story, the history of this airline and, for that matter, all the airlines that have operated here to handle flights (Binter, Best Fly, etc.). The inter-island transfers here are a real mess!!!
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
On Fogo, I don’t have any info—you’ll have to ask Marie. But in the travel journals, a lot of people do take the round-trip ferry.

Let’s just say it’s one of the more reliable connections. Though the sea conditions are often the most unpredictable part! ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Thanks for your replies. For my part, the ferry isn’t an issue except for the trip duration if it’s during the day and if they cancel too often. At night, I sleep fine, but I haven’t seen any nighttime schedules—that’s what worries me. Actually, I thought there was less risk of cancellation with the ferry than with the plane, precisely because of poor visibility. I’ll think about all this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Thanks for your replies. For my part, the ferry doesn’t bother me except for the trip duration if it’s during the day and if they cancel too often. At night I sleep fine, but I haven’t seen any nighttime schedules—that’s what worries me. Actually, I also thought there was less risk of cancellation with the ferry than with the plane, precisely because of poor visibility. I’ll think about all this.

hmm... well... both are a bit unpredictable... and the sea is pretty un-pre-dict-able. Night trips are rare unless you’re really doing Santiago-BV-Sal-SN-SV!!!! I took the Brava-Fogo ferry at 3 AM in June because of delays. We were supposed to leave at 2 PM, then pushed back to 11 PM... and finally left at 3 AM!!! hahaha! Awesome arriving in Fogo at 4 AM!!![;]
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I’ve got another little question about hikes on Santo Antão. Looking at different routes saved on apps like Wikiloc, I’ve noticed some crazy elevation gains. It seems like GPS devices go a bit haywire on the island—probably due to Santo Antão’s terrain (canyons, peaks, etc.). For example, the coastal route from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinhas shows over 2,000 m of elevation gain, even though the highest point doesn’t exceed 200 m… Sure, it’s constantly up and down, but that still seems like a lot! Personally, I’d estimate around 700 m—what do you think? I’ve even seen some day hikes listed with 3,000 m of elevation gain! I’m up for 1,200 m, but 3,000 m? No way!😏
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there, I have no experience with apps and such. But I can confirm that the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike is roughly 700-800 m ascent/700-800 m descent.

As for the 3,000 m of elevation gain, that seems like a lot, but maybe experienced hikers combine several stages in one? It all depends on the route. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.

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