Comme promis voici un petit résumé de mon séjour à Mada.
Tout d'abord je tiens à dire que tout s'est très bien passé et nous n'avons rencontré "que" deux problèmes:
1- avec l'agence de location de chauffeur/voiture "Look'Gasy Aventures":
Nous avons pris cette "association" de chauffeur pour notre circuit RN7 et aussi pour un jour pour une excursion vers Amphety avant de descendre.
La première excursion (réservée la vieille) s'est bien passé, bien que le chauffeur/guide ne soit en fait qu’un guide (étant accompagnée d'une amie malgache ça nous a pas posé souci plus que ça).
Par contre pour le reste de notre prestation ca a été plus compliqué.
En effet nous avions réservé un certain modèle de voiture deux semaines avant mais jusqu'au dernier jour nous n'avions plus eu de nouvelle du responsable (malgré nos appels).
La veille du départ nous avons enfin eu l'honneur de l'avoir au téléphone et il nous apprends que la voiture ne sera pas celle réservée mais une autre (prétextant qu'elle n'est pas disponible) et que le contrat sera signé dans la voiture avec lui même (il accompagnera le chauffeur pour le contrat uniquement).
Or le lendemain matin, pas de responsable, pas de contrat, pas de plein de carburant (alors que nous l'avions demandé expressément et il était d'accord).
Après un appel incendiaire il demande au chauffeur (qui n’était au courant de rien) de faire le plein (avec notre argent!) et de nous ramener à l'agence pour signer un contrat (lui étant en vacances!).
De plus nous nous sommes rendus compte que la voiture venait d'arriver des Comorres (pas de soucis) mais que le tableau de bord ne fonctionnait pas: pas d'indicateur de vitesse, pas de jauge d'essence (surtout qu'il voulait une location réservoir vide, donc la rendre aussi vide..)..bref ça commençait mal.
Je ne vous inflige pas tous les détails mais nous l'avons rencontré plus tard et il s'avère être un homme d'une mauvaise foi impressionnante!
Fort heureusement pour nous le chauffeur, dès le début, nous dit "je ne suis pas Justin (son chef), je suis là pour vous, je vais bien m'occuper de vous" et il tenu sa promesse!
Pour info l'association est en fait une société avec des salarié non propriétaires de leurs véhicules (même si certains en posséderaient a priori).
Le chauffeur au cours du trajet nous diras qu'il touchait environ 6e par jour sur les 30 que coute la location sans essence (mais ça je ne peut le vérifier).
Cependant le chauffeur, Ery, a été à la hauteur et avait une excellente connaissance des villes, peuples rencontrés, faune et flore (même si ce n'est pas son domaine).
Il avait toujours des bonnes adresses d’hôtels et resto en fonction de notre budget.
Il s'est mis en quatre quand nous avions des besoins spécifiques (chercher un couvent vendant du miel pour nos amis).
Ainsi si vous cherchez un chauffeur n’hésiter pas à me demander ses coordonnées car il m'a dit qu'il pouvait louer un véhicule à un ami pour travailler à son compte de temps à autre!
2- Air Madagascar a éviter (sauf si les retards et annulation ne vous dérangent pas!)
Le premier jour nous devions prendre un vol Tana-Saint Marie.
En effet nous arrivions à Tana vers 11h pour un départ vers Sainte Marie vers 15h.
Or la veille (!!) Air Mada a (gentillement) confirmer pour nous que nous acceptions le vol avancé à 12h30 (je crois).
Évidemment nous l'avons raté et nous pensions qu'ils nous dédommageraient.
Et bien non! Ils nous ont demandé de payer 25$ supplémentaires chacun pour "changer de vol" (le lendemain matin).
Après intervention de notre amie malgache ils ont accepté de "faire un geste" et de nous mettre sur le vol le lendemain matin sans frais.
Sachez juste que même le vol du lendemain matin a été avancé sans raison..
Bref, nos amis nous avaient prévenu, Air Mada annule/avance/retarde souvent ses vols sans aucunes justification.
Pour 250$ les 55 min de vol je ne trouve pas cela très correcte (pour rester poli)
Voilà voilà, à part ça tout s'est très bien passé durant notre séjour.
Voici les étapes que nous avons suivi:
J1:
Arrivé à Tana
J2:
Am: Vol vers Sainte marie (dans un petit ATR, 25 personnes en tout dedans!!)
Pm: ville
Hotel: lakana hotel (108000)
Le Lakana hotel est pas mal mais le rapport qualité/prix n'est pas terrible.
Je pense que nous aurions pu trouver mieux.
J3:
Am: Sortie baleines (organisme cetamada)
Pm: iles aux nattes
Hotel: lakana hotel
La sortie de 4h en mer ne m'a pas plu car nous étions en fin de saison et nous n'avions vu qu'une baleine et de trés loin..
Par contre l'Ile aux nattes est superbe, nous étions seuls sur une plage paradisiaque de sables blancs!!
On y accède avec des piroguiers qui vous font traversé en 3 minutes pour 2000 Ar (prés de l’aéroport à l’extrême sud de de l'ile)
J4:
Am: marche vers ville (bof)
Dej: idylle beach (110000) : bon resto tenu par des français mais assez cher pour Mada
Pm: iles aux nattes
Hotel: lakana hotel
J5:
Am: vers Tamave (gosika)
Pm: vers monombato
Hotel: chez luigy (40000)
Le 5eme jour nous avons quitté Sainte Marie par ferry + mini van (qui porte bien son nom) pour nous diriger vers Le canal de Pangalanes avec des amis malgaches.
Le Palmarium est un hôtel/resto/réserve sur le Canal accessible via des "bateaux" à louer (nous avions payé 250 000 à 8 il me semble pour une journée complète).
On y rencontre pleins de lémuriens semi apprivoisés(et quelques serpents ou caméléons) prés du resto. Pas besoin de rentrer dans la réserve pour en observer.
J7:
Am: vers Andisabe
Pm: vers Tana (lac Montsoa)
Journée de route vers Tana en 4X4.
Nous n'avons pas fait le parc d'Andasibe car il pleuvait et certains n'étaient pas motivé.
Le lac Montsoa ne mérite pas forcément l'arrêt.
J8:
Amfety:
Geyser
chute lily
Ilot de la vierge
Journée vers l'ouest de tana assez sympa.
Nous avons loué un 4X4 (très recommandé) pour faire un geyser et de jolies chutes d'eau.
J9:
Ambohimanga (anciens palais des rois et reines Merina): petite visite culturelle fort agréable et instructive.
J10 (départ sur la RN7):
Behenjy (Manger du foie gras au "Coin du foie gras, c'est trés bon)
Anstrirabe (ateliers, ville coloniale)
Dej pousse pousse (26000) : bon resto
Hotel camelia (65000) : bon hôtel mais le vatolahy est mieux à mon avis (nous l'avons fait au retour).
J11:
Ambosistra
Dej chez l'Artisan (beau pt de vue) 26000 : super point de vue sur la ville depuis cet hotel (qui plus est superbement scupté en bois par ..l'Artisan justement!)
Ateliers bois partout en ville
Route vers ronamafana
Hotel ihary (45000)
Diner hotel (22000)
J12
Trek 8h (25000X2+90000) dans le parc de Ranomafana : assez humide, attention aux sangsues. Le trek de 8h est complet (se renseigner sur les treks possibles, prix officiels affichés )
Diner (10000)
Hotel Ihary (45000)
J13
Fiana
Dej chez domm (18000)
Marché (très bon marché)
Haute ville (super joli avec pleins de gosses qui essayeront de jouer les guides)
Vieille ville
Hotel zomatel (60000) : trés bon rapport qualité/prix, très confortable.
Buffet zomatel (60000)
Ne rater pas l'atelier du photographe (connu mondialement) Pierrot Men (très sympa d'ailleurs) qui vends de superbes photos/posters/cartes postales
J14
Ambalavao
Atelier soie
Marché Zebu (à voir!)
Dej tsienimparihy (24000) : trés bonne entrecôte de Zébu et seule boulangerie de la ville
Atelier papier
Hotel zango (40000)
Diner hotel (18000)
J15
Vers Ranohira
Dej orchidées (19000)
Fenêtre isalo au coucher du soleil (essayer d'arriver un peu avant les quelques cars de touristes pour profiter des lieux)
Diner station essence (8500)
Hotel berny (62000)
Retour vers ambalavao aprés le trek
Hotel tsienimparihy (35000)
Diner hotel (30000)
J17
Vers ambosistra (5h de route)
Magasins bois
Tour au marché
Dej artisan (22000)
Hotel artisan (50000)
Diner artisan (27000)
J18:
Matin ambosistra
Pm antsirabe
Dej chez billy (26000)
Hotel vatolahy (73500)
Diner le colvert (32000)
L'hotel vatolahy et le resto colvert sont trés trés bien (proprio francais et sa femme malgaches sont trés sympas).
Le lit est trés confortable et le resto trés beau avec des plats peu chers et copieux : a recommender!
J19
Vers tana
Dej behenjy coin du foie gras (36000)
J20
Visite tana
Dej café de la gare (55000) : trés sympa
Diner sakamanga (40000)
Hotel le pavé (70000)
J21
Vers le Rova (faites pas comme nous : prendre un bus pour monter puis descendre à pieds)
Dej café de la gare (50000)
Bilan location de la voiture:
10*30e (location 10 jours) = 300e
Essence = 98e
= 400e
Un petit conseil:
Les enfants sont friands de petits sachets de Gateaux vendus dans tous les supermarchés sur place (100Ar la portion soit 1e les 35!).
A fiana les ecoliers demandent souvents des cahiers/stylo : si vous en avez ils en seront ravis.
En fin à ambalavao les enfants demandent des bouteilles en plastique vide (pour récuperer de l'eau ou les vendre selon notre chauffeur): au lieu de les jeter..
Voili voilou, si je peux vous aider n'hésitez pas ;)
Les loueurs indépendants que vous nommez ici association n'ont pas assez de capacités financières suffisantes. Et comme c'est la crise dans le secteur, les loueurs tendent à faire du n'importe quoi. Ce qui explique que le vôtre n'a pas pu faire le plein réservoir d'autant plus que les véhicules qui ne sont ni neufs ni récents sont à la fois utilisés à titre professionnel pour le tourisme et à titre personnel pour le propriétaire. Par ailleurs, rares sont les indépendants qui livrent plein réservoir leur véhicule de location. Seules les grosses boîtes genre Hertz, Avis et Budget le font.
Par ailleurs, il n'existe pas à Madagascar d'école de "chauffeur guide". Soit c'est un chauffeur, soit c'est un guide. La combinaison des deux viendra après quelques années d'expérience.
J'entends bien et je comprends ce que vous dites.
Cependant je reproche au gérant le manque d'organisation et de dialogue.
Quant à l'essence, comment rendre une voiture avec un réservoir vide si de plus la jauge d'essence ne fonctionne pas? c'est impossible.
Quand nous lui avons demandé pourquoi il n'a pas fait le plein alors qu'il nous avait dis qu'il le ferait il nous a répondu "moi aussi j'ai de l'argent, je n'ai pas besoin du vôtre!".
Enfin je ne vais polémiquer sur le sujet, grâce à notre chauffeur tout s'est très bien passé et c'est bien là l'essentiel 🙂
Joli récit d'un voyage qui s'est quand même bien passé.
Madagascar sans aléas ou surprises ne serait pas Madagascar
Le loueur est une chose mais il y a quand même d'excellents chauffeurs guides qui connaissent leur travail et sont tout particulièrement dévoués.
Leurs salaires journaliers sont assez bas et varient très souvent entre 25 et 30 000 ariary. Certains hôtels les nourrissent et les logent gratuitement
Hi there, I’ll start my trip in Tulear, and it’s going to be a demanding journey since I’ll be crossing some pretty isolated regions. After that, I’d like to relax and enjoy a quieter pace for 20 days in Antsirabe. But I’m worried that after Tulear, I might struggle to readjust—I’ll be used to the open-mindedness and cheerfulness of the Vezo people. Could you tell me if people in Antsirabe are more reserved and if it’s hard to make friends quickly? Thanks
hi,
Do you have one or—even better—several addresses for exchanging euros to ariary? Aside from Jmy Exchange, that is.
What’s the current exchange rate we can expect? Thanks!
hi there,
I took this route 25 years ago, and this time I’ll be leaving from Tamatave heading south to Fort Dauphin.
How far can you realistically get by bush taxi these days? Any firsthand experience or tips are welcome (just to clarify: we’re traveling on foot with backpacks, not by motorbike!).
Thanks! !
Has anyone been to this base camp in the Diego area towards the west coast (Mozambique Channel)? The trip starts from Diego Suarez by 4x4 and boat,
with a visit to Nosy Hara and a few nearby islands.
Possible big-game fishing and diving.
Thanks in advance if anyone has info!
Hi everyone, I’m heading to Île aux Nattes in a few weeks and I’d like to know if euros are accepted in the island’s restaurants.
At the hotel where I’ll be staying, they take card payments, but for activities, I can’t find any reliable info.
Could anyone tell me the approximate cost in euros and/or ariary for a week (food outside the hotel) on the island for two people?
Also, has anyone ever exchanged money at the Paris Magenta exchange bureau?
Thanks!
Hello,
After asking questions on the site, here’s a little feedback on our trip in March and April.
Marseille/Antananarivo flight with Ethiopian Airlines was great both ways. I’d recommend it.
Domestic flights with Madagascar Airlines were just as smooth.
We had to change our plans because I was the victim of a snatch-theft attempt at Ivato... patellar fracture... so I ended up with a brace and more rest than hikes.
This let us spend more time in the same areas and make some connections.
We loved Tulear. Stayed with Alain—excellent value for money.
Mangily, where we stayed for 15 days. Hotel Bella Dona due to my little handicap. The pool replaced sea swims.
Mangily gets a bad rap for being very touristy. True, you get approached a lot on the beach—you have to play along and buy some trinkets, but after that, you get royal peace and lots of exchanges with locals. The village and its lively street are nice too. Don’t hesitate to eat with fishermen or at local bars.
Anakao, a big favorite. Just the journey there is worth it. Watching dozens of pirogues set off between 5 and 6 AM is a magical moment.
Stayed at Peter Pan’s place. Lots of chats with Dario since we were the only guests.
Planned a 4-day Antananarivo–Soniara–Ivango road trip with a driver.
Cut to 2 days because the boat to Sainte Marie was moved up due to weather. I don’t remember the company’s name, but it wasn’t great for safety—plus, we brought back fleas.
Visited Andasibe Park along the way. Quick tip: go in the morning.
A little over 2 weeks on Sainte Marie at Hôtel Mantis Soanambo—total luxury negotiated at a price that defied all competition because it was low season.
Meals were at little local eateries nearby.
We chose not to sleep on Île aux Nattes but went there several times during the day (crossing: 4000 ariary for 2).
You have to take a pirogue tour—it’s like stepping into a postcard.
Sainte Marie is a special place. A tropical island that feels like the Caribbean ones we’ve lived on. No security issues at all. We rented a scooter because we found tuk-tuk prices a bit steep. You can leave the scooter with helmet and keys and come back 4 hours later.
More amazing encounters here too.
Last part of our trip in Ampefy, a beautiful volcanic region with a very welcoming population.
Stayed with a friend of our driver.
Hotels in Ivato are plentiful and vary a lot in quality.
Les 12 Collines is a bit out of the way but only 21 € per night.
La Chato... very expensive for what you get.
I tried to keep it short.
Madagascar is a wonderful island with so many facets. Always so many emotions when I think back on this trip.
The extreme poverty... don’t hesitate to buy food for the kids on the beach, for example. It doesn’t cost much, but it means a lot to them.
The kindness of the people and, above all, those SMILES.
We’re hooked—we’re going back in November for 6 months... because yes, you can buy a 3-month visa at the airport (a question I’d asked), and you can extend it for another 3 months... if you apply in time at a police station.
We didn’t take Malarone either. We’d brought some, but there were few mosquitoes, and "Insect Écran" worked really well.
Hi everyone, we’re planning a trip to Réunion for 6 nights and Mauritius for 7 nights in March 2027. I’m starting to look into it now. We’re not hikers, so I’d love to hear your thoughts!
Should we book flights and small hotels separately, or go for a flight-and-stay package? We don’t want to blow our budget (around 2800 € per person). Thanks!
Gigi
Hello,
We’ll be on vacation in the Seychelles in July and will visit La Digue, Praslin, and then Mahé in that order. Our 21-year-old daughter will have to leave earlier than us while we’re still on Praslin.
We’re hesitating between the following options for her return:
Option 1:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 2:00 PM – arrives in Mahé at 3:15 PM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- The connection is very tight, leaving a 1- to 2-hour safety margin in case the ferry is delayed.
Option 2:
- July 9: ferry from Praslin at 8:00 AM – arrives in Mahé at 9:15 AM.
- International flight departing at 7:30 PM.
- This is safer than Option 1, but it means she’d lose the whole day, spending it alone. We’d pay for a day pass giving her access to a hotel pool to kill time.
From experience, what do you think? Are significant ferry delays (2 hours or more) common, especially in July with the swell, making Option 1 too risky?
Or is even Option 2 too risky, and should our daughter take a ferry the day before (though that would mean missing a lot of time with us)?
Or should she take an Air Seychelles flight the same day instead of the ferry? Is that safer than the ferry? But it’s much more expensive…
I know no one can give me certainty on this, but I’d just love to hear your gut feeling from those who have experience with inter-island transfers in the Seychelles.
Thanks so much in advance!
Christophe
Hello,
Our trip is taking shape.
We’re leaving on February 28th. We’ll start by flying to Tulear, then make our way up to Tana at a relaxed pace before catching another flight to Diego Suarez.
We’d love to end our stay on Sainte Marie Island.
Is there a way to make the trip by land? By sea?
Just to clarify, we’re not pressed for time.
Thanks!
Hello everyone,
Thanks for this amazing forum—I’ve spent hours browsing through it.
I’m reaching out to ask for your help as we’re looking for a destination for our honeymoon.
We never travel outside Europe, so we’re total newbies, but we want to treat ourselves for this special occasion.
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12)
Duration: 2 to 3 weeks
Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan:
- A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches
- We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints
- A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes
- A safe destination
Our thoughts so far:
- New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++
- Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think?
- Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^
- Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options:
- French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip?
- Hawaii: same question—too far?
- Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major...
So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this?
Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason.
Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market.
The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers...
The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there).
The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra.
I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it.
So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast.
Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it?
What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days)
Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights)
Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach.
Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot.
Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina).
Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights)
Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse.
Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights)
Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise.
Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach.
Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days)
Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights)
Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy.
Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire.
Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie.
Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling.
Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights)
Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach.
Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon.
Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery.
Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls).
Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights)
Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach.
Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs.
Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights)
Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park.
Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes.
Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village.
Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
