40 days in Argentina and Uruguay: any recommendations?

Good evening! Focus on the Salta region, Mendoza, or even further south toward Patagonia. Around Salta, there are tons of small Andean villages. Near Mendoza, close to the Chilean border, there’s the Puente del Inca (Puente del Inca in Spanish).

Hi there, Rental car agencies charge exorbitant fees if you drop off the vehicle at a different location from where you picked it up. And the distances are huge, so either you take a flight or you take the bus, but expect to spend (or waste) a lot of time: Bariloche to Córdoba is a 24-hour drive... 1250 km. For your itinerary, things to do and see, there’s a 2025 travel journal on this site that’s a goldmine of information. Happy planning! !

Hi Béatrice, I had written you a very long reply this morning, but while wandering through different sections, I accidentally deleted it. So frustrating!!! This one will be a bit shorter. I was telling you that, in my opinion, the most stunning landscapes that don’t match our usual French expectations are in Argentina: the northwest region, Iguazu, and the southern Patagonian glaciers, especially around Perito Moreno and El Chaltén with Fitz Roy. But between the northwest and southern Patagonia, that’s 5,000 km! For getting around, renting a vehicle is very expensive, especially if you don’t return it to the same place. Plus, traveling between regions is tedious and tiring. Flying is perfect between Buenos Aires and Salta, or Salta and Iguazu or the south. For trips between Córdoba and Buenos Aires, a comfortable overnight bus works well, same for Salta/Mendoza or Salta/Córdoba. It’s best to rent a vehicle in each region you visit if needed. There are also guides offering their services and travel agencies—your choice. I know Argentina pretty well (I’ve been going there once or twice a year for over 20 years for my associative work with schools in the northwest, in Jujuy province), and I’d suggest taking plenty of time for the northwest region because it’s exceptional and nothing like what we’re used to in France. If you’d like, I can give you more details on places to see, mostly off the beaten path, away from touristy spots like Tilcara or Humahuaca. For example, Susques, where few tourists go, even though it’s a gem in the heart of the puna, and you can visit the oldest church in Argentina (1598), still in perfect condition. It’s a bit farther (70 km) from Las Salinas Grandes, and it lets you dive right into Andean life. Don’t hesitate—I’m happy to help! Also, about the rain: the season might be over, but not necessarily! Depending on where you’re going, keep in mind that roads can be in bad shape, so always ask before venturing out. See you soon if my tips seem useful! For Iguazu, this is a great time because after the rains, the water volume in the falls is even more impressive.

Thanks for all this information. Over the past few weeks, we’ve thoroughly researched the regions we’d like to visit. We’ll start our trip in Bariloche and its surroundings for a week. A few days in Buenos Aires, then a week in Uruguay (from Colonia del Sacramento to Montevideo). We’ve set aside 14 nights in the Salta/Cafayate/Tilcara area, taking our time in March. We’d love some advice for this region—whether to explore by rental car, local buses (to avoid driving too much), or maybe organized excursions. We’ve planned to stay 4 nights in each city to complete the northern and southern loop. Thanks in advance for your tips!

Sorry I took so long to reply—I was in Argentina for my association, and I only got around to it last night. After typing out a bunch of lines to give you answers, my finger dragged across the keyboard and I deleted everything... ugh, so frustrating...

Anyway, I’ll get back to it and keep it more concise this time!

I was saying that 4 nights per city seems impractical for all the different things to see. You need to be more mobile. First, I agree with what’s been said about renting a vehicle for long distances (too expensive, too tedious, and restrictive) for exploring the Northwest—it’s a great approach. It’s easy to rent a car when you arrive at Salta Airport (I know Hertz is there—I used them two years ago and was happy with them, and there are surely others). It’s also easy to return it in Salta when you leave, without the crazy extra fees for dropping it off in another town.

As for choosing these three locations: in my opinion, it’s best to start in Salta, then head to Cafayate, loop back through Salta, and head north from there.

That’s where I’d suggest exploring other spots like Purmamarca, Las Salinas Grandes, maybe Susques, and possibly Hornocal. I’ll post another message with more details on my suggestions as soon as I can...

Arrival in Salta: everything depends on the time 1) If it's in the morning: after renting the vehicle at the airport, for example, and checking out the hotel—ideally central and with parking—head out to explore the city center. It’s also recommended to visit Plaza 9 de Julio at night.

Day 2: Visit Cerro San Bernardo via the funicular for a general view of Salta, Parque San Martín, the cathedral, and possibly San Francisco. Visit the MAAM museum (book your visit time online). Second night in Salta.

You could also skip renting the vehicle and pick it up only on the morning of the 3rd day to head straight to Cafayate. This might be cheaper, but it means part of the morning will be spent renting the car.

Head to Cafayate, stopping along the way at different sites (La Garganta del Diablo, El Anfiteatro, El Castillo… until you reach Cafayate). Spend the night in Cafayate after exploring the elegant center of this small tourist-friendly town, its restaurants, and possibly some bodegas.

The next day, you could visit Amaycha del Valle with its Pachamama Museum and observatory, which would require staying overnight. So, either spend the night in Amaycha (if visiting the observatory) or return to Cafayate. There’s also an interesting archaeological site along the way, but I’ve forgotten the name.

The following day, return to Salta—either stop there again or continue toward Jujuy, which is 120 km from Salta. If you’re coming from Amaicha, continuing past Jujuy to Tilcara or Purmamarca might feel long. If you spent the night in Salta, you can continue more easily.

Personally, I suggest taking Route 52 toward Purmamarca (the road to Chile) and stopping to visit this little gem. Spend the night there and take the next day to relax, visiting Los Colorados (the access path is just past the hostel of the same name) and the cemetery. It’s a walk that will leave you wide-eyed!

A second night in Purmamarca is possible before heading out the next day to discover the Cuesta de Lipán and its stunning landscapes. The road deserves your full attention, including the curves and a few spots where the pavement is damaged (I haven’t been there this year, but it’s the same every year!).

You’ll reach the top of this route (I encourage you to stop whenever possible to admire these magnificent curves and also to acclimate to the altitude—you’ll go from 1,500/2,000m to 4,170m!). Make sure to stop (be careful, the temperature can drop significantly, especially if there’s wind). Afterward, you’ll arrive at Las Salinas Grandes… it’s worth spending some time there and taking a guided tour. Try the delicious local tortillas made on-site by women from the surrounding villages (especially Tres Pozos).

After that, you can either head back down to Purmamarca or continue 70 km toward Chile to discover the village of Susques, which is completely untouristy—pure Andean authenticity. It has the oldest church in Argentina (1598). Stunning! You can spend the night in Susques (there’s a hostel right across from the church and others a bit farther away). This is the authentic moment of this otherwise touristy region, where you’ll balance discomfort with the desire to discover the lives of people living in such a remote area, far from many conveniences. Do not descend the Cuesta de Lipán at night—it’s too dangerous, even if you’re daring.

It’s up to you whether you visit Susques. If you only go to Las Salinas, you can either return to Purmamarca or head straight to Tilcara (Tilcara is 30 km past the Route 52 turnoff that leads to Purmamarca).

I’ve lost track of the night/day count!!!

Tilcara is a very touristy but charming little town, with its square full of artisan stalls (you’ll have seen some in Purmamarca too). Visit its Pucará: an archaeological site, an ancient pre-Hispanic fortress and village built by the locals. The only downside is that it’s been restored, and the restorers might have taken some creative liberties—or so I’ve heard. Still, it’s worth a visit.

You’ll spend a second night in Tilcara before heading a bit farther north to discover Humahuaca, a UNESCO World Heritage site. You can stop in Maimará and explore its cemetery at the edge of the village, its mountains with surprising curves—great photo opportunities.

The tour of Humahuaca is fairly quick. There are small restaurants like in Tilcara where you can try northern cuisine and eat llama if you’d like. There are peñas with folk music from the north. After spending the night in Humahuaca, you can try to visit Hornocal—a breathtaking wonder in both beauty and altitude. The road is quite rough.

After that, you can either spend another night in Humahuaca or head back down to Maimará and Tilcara, depending on the time. There’s also the Tropic of Capricorn near Huacalera to visit, or the village of Uquía, which is very interesting.

Well, all of this is a bit rough and should be refined based on your preferences! You’ll need to take the time to return to Salta and spend another night there before continuing your trip…

What’s certain is that beyond Humahuaca, there are plenty of discoveries in the Puna, especially toward Iruya. Why not? But the road is long and difficult, especially if you’re in a regular car.

I don’t recommend venturing there, but it’s a marvel.

It’s up to you to decide! And you’re not obligated to follow my suggestions. In any case, make sure to bring warm clothes—the difference between day and night, especially when the Andean wind picks up, is really drastic. Also, fill up the gas tank whenever possible to avoid surprises.

I’ve tried to be as practical as possible within the scope of your plans… otherwise, there are plenty of other discoveries that could fascinate you!!!

See you soon if you need anything! Don’t hesitate, even if I’m not very quick these days—I’m preparing the *Festival Solidario* for the schools in the Puna. On November 12, our 19th festival will take place in Susques.