Hello,
Our daughter has gone to Sydney, and we’d love to spend the end-of-year holidays with her.
The plan is to leave from Paris or Brussels and break up the trip with a 3- or 4-day layover to "split" the journey in two.
Then head back to Sydney, explore the East Coast in a van, celebrate Christmas and New Year’s in Sydney, and finally return to France with another layover.
My questions:
Which city should we choose for the layover (we’ve already visited Kuala Lumpur and Singapore and would like to see a different city)? Both on the way there and back?
Which agency should we rent a van from?
What sites should we visit on the East Coast?
If you’ve done this kind of trip before and have any tips or advice, I’d love to hear them.
Thanks
Oceania · Australie
Australie, Fidji, Marshall, Micronésie, Nouvelle Zélande, Papouasie - Nouvelle Guinée, Salomon, Samoa, Tonga, Tuvalu...
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Hi there! After searching online, reading books, and getting help from our van rental company, we’ve finalized our upcoming road trip along Australia’s East Coast. We rented our van (a Sandpiper) from Vanz Travel (a small team of French expats based in Sydney).
Our itinerary focuses on Aboriginal culture where possible, wildlife and flora, stunning landscapes, and the must-see spots.
1. Flight PERTH - CAIRNS 15:05–21:15 2. Departure for diving cruise 06:00 3. Diving cruise 4. Diving cruise return 16:00 5. Cairns (visit Port Douglas) 6. Cairns: Pick up the van 7. Cairns → Atherton Tablelands 8. Atherton → Mission Beach → Townsville (Whitsundays cruise) 9. Townsville 10. Townsville → Airlie Beach 11. Airlie Beach 12. Airlie Beach → Cape Hillsborough 13. Cape Hillsborough → Mackay 14. Mackay → Rockhampton 15. Rockhampton → Agnes Water 16. Agnes Water → Rainbow Beach 17. Rainbow Beach → Camping Habitat Noosa 18. Noosa 19. Noosa → Sunshine Coast 20. Sunshine Coast 21. Sunshine Coast → Brisbane 22. Brisbane → Springbrook National Park 23. Springbrook → Byron Bay 24. Byron Bay → Coffs Harbour 25. Coffs Harbour → Port Macquarie 26. Port Macquarie → Port Stephens 27. Port Stephens → Sydney 28. Sydney 29. Sydney → Jervis Bay 30. Jervis Bay 31. Jervis Bay 32. Jervis Bay → Pambula 33. Pambula - Merimbula 34. Pambula → Lakes Entrance 35. Lakes Entrance → Wilson Promontory 36. Wilson Promontory 37. Wilson Promontory → Mornington 38. Mornington → Melbourne 39. Melbourne 40. Melbourne 41. Flight to PERTH
We’re starting from PERTH because our son has been living there since May of last year, and we’re taking the opportunity to visit him while doing this big East Coast tour.
For the first six days of our trip, he’ll be with us—that’s why our van journey starts on day 7.
I’m sharing this itinerary for those who know the East Coast well and might have tips on things we shouldn’t miss. When we return, I’ll share what we loved (and what we liked less). If you have any feedback on this route, don’t hesitate! 2.16.1.2 Yann and Valerie
Our itinerary focuses on Aboriginal culture where possible, wildlife and flora, stunning landscapes, and the must-see spots.
1. Flight PERTH - CAIRNS 15:05–21:15 2. Departure for diving cruise 06:00 3. Diving cruise 4. Diving cruise return 16:00 5. Cairns (visit Port Douglas) 6. Cairns: Pick up the van 7. Cairns → Atherton Tablelands 8. Atherton → Mission Beach → Townsville (Whitsundays cruise) 9. Townsville 10. Townsville → Airlie Beach 11. Airlie Beach 12. Airlie Beach → Cape Hillsborough 13. Cape Hillsborough → Mackay 14. Mackay → Rockhampton 15. Rockhampton → Agnes Water 16. Agnes Water → Rainbow Beach 17. Rainbow Beach → Camping Habitat Noosa 18. Noosa 19. Noosa → Sunshine Coast 20. Sunshine Coast 21. Sunshine Coast → Brisbane 22. Brisbane → Springbrook National Park 23. Springbrook → Byron Bay 24. Byron Bay → Coffs Harbour 25. Coffs Harbour → Port Macquarie 26. Port Macquarie → Port Stephens 27. Port Stephens → Sydney 28. Sydney 29. Sydney → Jervis Bay 30. Jervis Bay 31. Jervis Bay 32. Jervis Bay → Pambula 33. Pambula - Merimbula 34. Pambula → Lakes Entrance 35. Lakes Entrance → Wilson Promontory 36. Wilson Promontory 37. Wilson Promontory → Mornington 38. Mornington → Melbourne 39. Melbourne 40. Melbourne 41. Flight to PERTH
We’re starting from PERTH because our son has been living there since May of last year, and we’re taking the opportunity to visit him while doing this big East Coast tour.
For the first six days of our trip, he’ll be with us—that’s why our van journey starts on day 7.
I’m sharing this itinerary for those who know the East Coast well and might have tips on things we shouldn’t miss. When we return, I’ll share what we loved (and what we liked less). If you have any feedback on this route, don’t hesitate! 2.16.1.2 Yann and Valerie
Hi everyone,
I have to leave for Perth, Australia in a week, for 7 days, and I couldn’t get my international driver’s permit due to processing and delivery delays.
The information I’ve found about whether an international permit is required is contradictory. Some sources say you need one, others say you don’t.
Could anyone let me know if an international driver’s permit is necessary to rent a car in Australia (Perth), or if a French license is enough for a 7-day rental?
Thanks in advance for your advice
The information I’ve found about whether an international permit is required is contradictory. Some sources say you need one, others say you don’t.
Could anyone let me know if an international driver’s permit is necessary to rent a car in Australia (Perth), or if a French license is enough for a 7-day rental?
Thanks in advance for your advice
A one-month trip to Australia and New Zealand.
We’re bringing our current medications (for blood pressure, cholesterol, diabetes, and antibiotics if needed) along with the corresponding prescription.
Do we need to have it translated into English, or do translations only apply to medications we’d need to refill locally during a long stay?
Hi everyone! I’m planning a long trip of two and a half months and could use some input to fine-tune my itinerary. I already have a good idea of the dates and how the climate will vary depending on where we are in Australia. Feel free to share your thoughts!
**Zone 1: DARWIN – August 17 to 22 (6 days)** Activities & visits: Crocosaurus Cove, Kakadu Park scenic flight, 3-day excursion to Kakadu, Litchfield, and Katherine National Parks Flight to Alice Springs on the 23rd
**Zone 2: ALICE SPRINGS – ULURU – August 23 to 30 (8 days)** Car rental Activities & visits: Alice Springs (1 day), West MacDonnell Ranges (1 day), Watarrka National Park, Uluru (3 days) Flight to Cairns on the 31st
**Zone 3: CAIRNS – August 31 to September 9 (10 days)** Car rental from the 31st to the 6th Activities & visits: Port Douglas, Daintree Rainforest, Mount Quincan, Herberton Historic Village, Cairns, Great Barrier Reef Bus to Townsville on the 10th
**Zone 4: TOWNSVILLE – NOOSA – September 10 to 26 (17 days)** Activities & visits: Magnetic Island Bus to Airlie Beach on the 13th Activities & visits: Whitsunday Islands, Great Barrier Reef Car rental from the 17th to the 20th Activities & visits: Eungella National Park Overnight bus from Mackay to Hervey Bay (20th to 21st) Activities & visits: K’gari (Fraser Island) Bus to Noosa on the 25th Activities & visits: Noosa National Park Bus to Brisbane on the 27th
**Zone 5: BRISBANE – September 27 to October 1 (5 days)** Car rental from the 29th to the 1st Activities & visits: Brisbane, Glass House Mountains, Springbrook National Park, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary Bus to Coffs Harbour on the 2nd
**Zone 6: COFFS HARBOUR – October 2 to 4** Car rental from the 3rd to the 4th Activities & visits: Dorrigo National Park Overnight bus to Sydney (4th to 5th)
**Zone 7: SYDNEY – October 5 to 9 (5 days)** Car rental from the 7th to the 9th Activities & visits: Sydney, Blue Mountains, Jenolan Caves Overnight bus to Melbourne (9th to 10th)
**Zone 8: MELBOURNE – October 10 to 16 (7 days)** Car rental from the 13th to the 16th Activities & visits: Melbourne, Phillip Island, Great Ocean Road Flight to Hobart on the 17th
**Zone 9: TASMANIA – October 17 to 23 (6 days)** Car rental from the 17th to the 23rd Activities & visits: Hobart, Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet National Park, Natureworld Flight to Perth on the 23rd
**Zone 10: PERTH – October 24 to 27 (4 days)** Activities & visits: Rottnest Island, Wave Rock, Perth Flight to Paris on the 28th
**Zone 1: DARWIN – August 17 to 22 (6 days)** Activities & visits: Crocosaurus Cove, Kakadu Park scenic flight, 3-day excursion to Kakadu, Litchfield, and Katherine National Parks Flight to Alice Springs on the 23rd
**Zone 2: ALICE SPRINGS – ULURU – August 23 to 30 (8 days)** Car rental Activities & visits: Alice Springs (1 day), West MacDonnell Ranges (1 day), Watarrka National Park, Uluru (3 days) Flight to Cairns on the 31st
**Zone 3: CAIRNS – August 31 to September 9 (10 days)** Car rental from the 31st to the 6th Activities & visits: Port Douglas, Daintree Rainforest, Mount Quincan, Herberton Historic Village, Cairns, Great Barrier Reef Bus to Townsville on the 10th
**Zone 4: TOWNSVILLE – NOOSA – September 10 to 26 (17 days)** Activities & visits: Magnetic Island Bus to Airlie Beach on the 13th Activities & visits: Whitsunday Islands, Great Barrier Reef Car rental from the 17th to the 20th Activities & visits: Eungella National Park Overnight bus from Mackay to Hervey Bay (20th to 21st) Activities & visits: K’gari (Fraser Island) Bus to Noosa on the 25th Activities & visits: Noosa National Park Bus to Brisbane on the 27th
**Zone 5: BRISBANE – September 27 to October 1 (5 days)** Car rental from the 29th to the 1st Activities & visits: Brisbane, Glass House Mountains, Springbrook National Park, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary Bus to Coffs Harbour on the 2nd
**Zone 6: COFFS HARBOUR – October 2 to 4** Car rental from the 3rd to the 4th Activities & visits: Dorrigo National Park Overnight bus to Sydney (4th to 5th)
**Zone 7: SYDNEY – October 5 to 9 (5 days)** Car rental from the 7th to the 9th Activities & visits: Sydney, Blue Mountains, Jenolan Caves Overnight bus to Melbourne (9th to 10th)
**Zone 8: MELBOURNE – October 10 to 16 (7 days)** Car rental from the 13th to the 16th Activities & visits: Melbourne, Phillip Island, Great Ocean Road Flight to Hobart on the 17th
**Zone 9: TASMANIA – October 17 to 23 (6 days)** Car rental from the 17th to the 23rd Activities & visits: Hobart, Tasman Peninsula, Freycinet National Park, Natureworld Flight to Perth on the 23rd
**Zone 10: PERTH – October 24 to 27 (4 days)** Activities & visits: Rottnest Island, Wave Rock, Perth Flight to Paris on the 28th
We have about 50 days total—any suggestions for a route covering New Zealand (22 nights) and 30 days in Australia?
Is Tasmania a must-see?
We want to visit Darwin and Cairns. What’s the best time to avoid the rainy season?
Our initial idea for Australia is:
Sydney Melbourne Kangaroo Island (KI) Adelaide Uluru (Red Rock) Darwin Cairns
Is Tasmania a must-see?
We want to visit Darwin and Cairns. What’s the best time to avoid the rainy season?
Our initial idea for Australia is:
Sydney Melbourne Kangaroo Island (KI) Adelaide Uluru (Red Rock) Darwin Cairns
Hi,
I'm planning a trip to this region in November. My initial plan was Adelaide-Darwin by van, but I'm worried about those critters. I'm now considering staying in hotels instead, but for the Red Centre, camping is more practical... if we overlook those pests.
What do you think? Thanks.
Hi there,
I'm planning a 4x4 road trip from Darwin to Broome with a rooftop tent in July 2026.
I'd like to know if I need to book overnight stops in advance or if I can just wing it and stop wherever I feel like it?
Some evenings, we'd like to stop and make use of campsite facilities (restaurant, shop, showers, toilets).
What do you recommend?
Do I need a permit?
My rough itinerary looks like this: Darwin - Kakadu Kakadu - Nitmiluk Nitmiluk - Kununurra Kununurra - Purnululu Purnululu - El Questro El Questro - Mt Elizabeth - Bell Gorge - Broome
Do you have any tips or great deals to share?
Thanks
My rough itinerary looks like this: Darwin - Kakadu Kakadu - Nitmiluk Nitmiluk - Kununurra Kununurra - Purnululu Purnululu - El Questro El Questro - Mt Elizabeth - Bell Gorge - Broome
Do you have any tips or great deals to share?
Thanks
Hi everyone.
Because that’s also what sparks the desire in every traveler (well, at least for me) to set foot on Australian soil: discovering a new continent.
Right now, I’ve got some time on my hands—those who follow me know that. A nasty muscle tear (which really doesn’t want to heal) is keeping me grounded for another week, so I’ve decided to open a new travel journal, recounting my recent trip from December 14, 2024, to January 12, 2025, in Australia.
The origins of this trip started last May in Crete, an island I chose for a 10-day break. It’s really lovely, by the way, but that’s not the point… It’s around this time every year that we decide on our next winter destination, and Argentina was at the top of the list—Sydney wasn’t even on the radar… I’d been looking at flights to Buenos Aires for a while, and the prices were shocking… But by the pool one lazy afternoon, scrolling on my iPhone, a promo from Geneva to Sydney caught my eye. The deal ticked two boxes on my traveler’s bucket list: a flight to Australia and a flight with Singapore Airlines, often ranked as the world’s best airline. A quick chat with the missus (well, of course!) and the decision was made: off to the land of kangaroos! Now, once you add luggage and Economy Plus, it still comes to 1600 € per person, but that’s a reasonable price. Either way, we already know what we’re in for—Australia is a budget commitment!

Thanks to 123rf for the image loan 😛
Right now, I’ve got some time on my hands—those who follow me know that. A nasty muscle tear (which really doesn’t want to heal) is keeping me grounded for another week, so I’ve decided to open a new travel journal, recounting my recent trip from December 14, 2024, to January 12, 2025, in Australia.
The origins of this trip started last May in Crete, an island I chose for a 10-day break. It’s really lovely, by the way, but that’s not the point… It’s around this time every year that we decide on our next winter destination, and Argentina was at the top of the list—Sydney wasn’t even on the radar… I’d been looking at flights to Buenos Aires for a while, and the prices were shocking… But by the pool one lazy afternoon, scrolling on my iPhone, a promo from Geneva to Sydney caught my eye. The deal ticked two boxes on my traveler’s bucket list: a flight to Australia and a flight with Singapore Airlines, often ranked as the world’s best airline. A quick chat with the missus (well, of course!) and the decision was made: off to the land of kangaroos! Now, once you add luggage and Economy Plus, it still comes to 1600 € per person, but that’s a reasonable price. Either way, we already know what we’re in for—Australia is a budget commitment!

Thanks to 123rf for the image loan 😛
Hi there,
Since I’m not familiar with Australian airlines, I’d appreciate some advice.
I need to book a domestic flight from Adelaide to Sydney quickly, and I see Jetstar, Virgin, and Qantas as options. On paper, Qantas’s schedule and price are less appealing.
Which of the three is the most reliable (fewer flight cancellations, since this is the last flight of the day) and easiest to book on their website?
Thanks!
Since I’m not familiar with Australian airlines, I’d appreciate some advice.
I need to book a domestic flight from Adelaide to Sydney quickly, and I see Jetstar, Virgin, and Qantas as options. On paper, Qantas’s schedule and price are less appealing.
Which of the three is the most reliable (fewer flight cancellations, since this is the last flight of the day) and easiest to book on their website?
Thanks!
Is it possible to visit the park for a day by round-trip bus from Darwin without going through a tour operator?
Thanks for your answers!
Elisabeth
Hi,
I’m planning a trip to Australia—Paris to Melbourne.
I’m flying with Etihad and have a 1-hour connection in Abu Dhabi.
Does that seem doable to you?
Thanks for your feedback and experiences!
Hi everyone. I’ve got a round-trip ticket to Perth for 4 weeks. Is it better to stay on the west coast the whole time?
Or should I grab a round-trip to the east coast?
Or even head over to NZ as well?
Thanks for your tips.
Hi everyone,
For a combined trip to New Zealand and eastern Australia, which time of year would you pick for photography and videography?
Thanks for your help
For a combined trip to New Zealand and eastern Australia, which time of year would you pick for photography and videography?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip from Darwin to Perth (about 6 weeks) in a campervan.
The reviews for the main rental companies (Star RV, Indie Campers, Apollo, Britz—just to name a few) are terrible.
What should we make of that? Is it just the unhappy customers who complain?
So, who should we go with?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
I’ve blocked out 3 weeks at the end of March/beginning of April, arriving in Sydney and departing from Adelaide while following the coast.
Kangaroo Island is a bit of a question mark for me. If I go, I can dedicate 2.5 days to it. Is it worth the time and the cost? I’ve read plenty of travel journals highlighting the landscapes and wildlife, but I’m sure I’ll see plenty of that along my route anyway. I’m not factoring in the financial side (which isn’t negligible for KI), but I’d rather not be disappointed. What are the real added values of KI, especially since the island has been affected by fires? I’ve also come across people online calling it a tourist trap. For example, I ruled out Phillip Island because it felt too organized and structured. Sorry if I’m opening Pandora’s box here!
Thanks for your feedback.
I’ve blocked out 3 weeks at the end of March/beginning of April, arriving in Sydney and departing from Adelaide while following the coast.
Kangaroo Island is a bit of a question mark for me. If I go, I can dedicate 2.5 days to it. Is it worth the time and the cost? I’ve read plenty of travel journals highlighting the landscapes and wildlife, but I’m sure I’ll see plenty of that along my route anyway. I’m not factoring in the financial side (which isn’t negligible for KI), but I’d rather not be disappointed. What are the real added values of KI, especially since the island has been affected by fires? I’ve also come across people online calling it a tourist trap. For example, I ruled out Phillip Island because it felt too organized and structured. Sorry if I’m opening Pandora’s box here!
Thanks for your feedback.
Hi everyone,
We’re leaving for Australia soon and renting a car for the different legs of our trip.
We have our French license plus the international driving permit, but I read in the rental agency’s rules that they require an international permit written in English.
However, on the "France Diplomatie" website, it doesn’t mention that the international permit has to be in English.
For those of you who’ve already been to Australia—can you confirm whether our French-language international driving permit is enough, or should I get an urgent translation?
Thanks for your feedback—takeoff is August 20th!🤪
For those of you who’ve already been to Australia—can you confirm whether our French-language international driving permit is enough, or should I get an urgent translation?
Thanks for your feedback—takeoff is August 20th!🤪
Hi there,
Does anyone know how tobacco checks work for luggage in Australia?
What’s the allowed quantity?
I assume there’s a declaration form to sign for customs.
Is there a baggage search afterward, or are sniffer dogs used?
What’s the fine if you exceed the allowed amounts?
Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning and budgeting a trip to Australia for August 2026, lasting 40 days.
Here’s the current itinerary: Arrival at Port Macquarie Airport in New South Wales and return from Cairns Airport in Queensland. - South West Rock - Cap Ridge Park - Springbrook Park - Stradbroke Island - Maleny - Noosa - Rainbow Beach - K’Gari - Gladstone - Heron Island - Airlie Beach - Townsville - Magnetic Island - Cairns - Cape Tribulation
My main issue is transport to cover all of this.
The first leg is already tricky—I haven’t found a way to rent a car in Port Macquarie and drop it off in South West Rock. And if we keep the vehicle until Cleveland (8 days) before taking the ferry to Stradbroke Island, it’s already around 1000 €.
- Are there any systems where we could buy a vehicle in Port Macquarie and be sure it’s bought back at the end of the trip in Cairns?
- Do you know of any Australian online car rental sites?
As for trains, they’re not really an option for our stay in New South Wales. In Queensland, I found the Queensland Rail Travel website with a Brisbane–Cairns line, but trains don’t run every day.
- Do you know of any other train companies in Queensland that connect coastal cities from Brisbane to Cairns?
For flights, I checked Queensland with Qantas, and most routes require a stopover in Brisbane, which wastes a lot of time, and the prices are still high.
Do you know of any low-cost airlines for domestic flights in Australia?
Thanks for your tips!
I’m planning and budgeting a trip to Australia for August 2026, lasting 40 days.
Here’s the current itinerary: Arrival at Port Macquarie Airport in New South Wales and return from Cairns Airport in Queensland. - South West Rock - Cap Ridge Park - Springbrook Park - Stradbroke Island - Maleny - Noosa - Rainbow Beach - K’Gari - Gladstone - Heron Island - Airlie Beach - Townsville - Magnetic Island - Cairns - Cape Tribulation
My main issue is transport to cover all of this.
The first leg is already tricky—I haven’t found a way to rent a car in Port Macquarie and drop it off in South West Rock. And if we keep the vehicle until Cleveland (8 days) before taking the ferry to Stradbroke Island, it’s already around 1000 €.
- Are there any systems where we could buy a vehicle in Port Macquarie and be sure it’s bought back at the end of the trip in Cairns?
- Do you know of any Australian online car rental sites?
As for trains, they’re not really an option for our stay in New South Wales. In Queensland, I found the Queensland Rail Travel website with a Brisbane–Cairns line, but trains don’t run every day.
- Do you know of any other train companies in Queensland that connect coastal cities from Brisbane to Cairns?
For flights, I checked Queensland with Qantas, and most routes require a stopover in Brisbane, which wastes a lot of time, and the prices are still high.
Do you know of any low-cost airlines for domestic flights in Australia?
Thanks for your tips!
In this time of general travel-journal scarcity, I’m stepping up to tell you about a far-too-short getaway to the Top West End, a local term for the very northern part of Western Australia, right on the border ( ;) ) with the Northern Territory.
As usual, I didn’t manage to keep it short, but this time I’ve got photos to go with it!
August 2020. Since the opportunities to explore the world are extremely limited right now, all we (R&X) can do is explore our own island! Well, just a part of it, because with the state borders still closed, we’re stuck in Western Australia (WA).
Luckily, we’re pretty fortunate because this state is huge: over 2.5 million km² (that’s more than four times the size of France or 1.5 times Quebec). What’s more, stretching over 20 degrees of latitude between the Antarctic Ocean and the Timor Sea, you’ll find climates ranging from Mediterranean to arid to tropical. That’s actually why we decided to head as far north as possible. Sick of the endless rainy winter in Perth, bring on the heat of the Kimberley... way up Nooorth!
Friday. At the airport, the main terminal was closed (not enough flights), so we ended up in the annex (where flights to the various mines usually depart from). There was no crowd at the gate, and in this huge, single departure lounge, empty seats were plentiful. Only three flights were listed on the screens for the rest of the morning: the first to Coondewanna (?), the second to Darwin, and ours to Kununurra (code KNX).
A cool breeze swept through the half-open corridors along the runways. At the top of the walkway leading to the Fokker 100 (the Airbuses and Boeings are now parked!), a flight attendant greeted us with a basket full of sanitary masks. We were actually the only masked passengers (the staff weren’t wearing them either). With zero Covid-19 cases in WA at the time, the only rule was to maintain social distancing—something pretty hard to do on a full plane!
It was also my first time wearing a mask—it felt weird, pretty uncomfortable, and after a while, painful behind the ears. I really feel for those who have to wear one all day, every day. The flight lasted three long hours, but luckily, I had a good book. From the window, I watched an endless expanse of salt lakes in all shapes and sizes—round, elongated, gray, white, sometimes blue and green—and an infinity of winding, capricious meanders, along with long straight lines that led nowhere. The last half-hour got more interesting as rocky, swollen formations and long, sloping plateaus appeared. Against the vast ochre landscape, green patches became more frequent.



Just before landing, rows of green fields briefly appeared, along with an surprisingly wide river—but we were already rolling down the tarmac. A few hangars, a myriad of small, stationary planes, and a tiny terminal topped with a sign: “Welcome to Kununurra.”



We wanted heat, and here it was—34°C the moment we stepped off the plane! We felt alive again and totally ridiculous in our jeans and sweaters. We quickly grabbed our suitcase and picked up the 4x4 we’d rented—more out of necessity, since only that type of vehicle can access the national parks we planned to visit.
Just four kilometers separated us from Kununurra, a town of 5,000 people founded in 1961 during the construction of the Lake Argyle Dam and the development of the Ord River Irrigation Area Scheme (more on that later). On the horizon, mountain ranges (a bit of an exaggeration, since we know Mt. Meharry, WA’s highest ‘mountain,’ doesn’t even reach 1,250 meters!) and closer to the road, a few irrigation canals cutting through stretches of bush, then a huge park overlooking a small lake lined with reeds.
A row of baobabs (yes, there are baobabs in Australia too!), a series of motels with immaculate lawns, a gas station, and there’s the main street leading to the town center—that is, the parking lots of the two supermarkets, the bottleshop, the pub, the Town Hall, the municipal pool, and the Tourist Office (already closed!), and at the next roundabout, another park, the Presbyterian church, and a few other shops. In short, two or three green blocks that you can explore in no time.
One road leads to the small industrial area and one of the town’s three or four campgrounds, while another heads toward the residential neighborhoods, which look just like the typical suburbs you find in any Australian city—except with tropical vegetation. We stocked up at Coles, an identical copy of the one near our place, and—surprise—the prices were practically the same.
We checked into one of the motels. The receptionist listed the town’s three or four restaurants, insisting that it’s always better to book a table. She recommended the Pump House, a bit outside town on the lake’s edge. “Best spot to watch the sunset, but hurry up.” she told us. It was only 5:00 PM!
When we got there half an hour later, the place was packed, and the sun had already disappeared behind a row of trees! Sure enough, we’d see a few days later that the sunset can be a stunning spectacle—if you wait a bit for the sky (especially if it’s cloudy) to blaze and reflect in the lake’s calm waters. A little disappointed, we headed back into town, where we easily found the other lively spot in town: the pub (nothing like an old English pub). Above the long L-shaped bar, several giant screens (thankfully muted) were broadcasting live footy, rugby league, etc. In one corner, players circled the pool table, while in another, customers were digging into plates of the day’s special. Instead of rooms, there were various patios where groups of friends and coworkers (easily recognizable by the fluoro vests they were still wearing) were gathered. We found a table under a mango tree—unfortunately, a little too close to the guitarist strumming his entire Country Music repertoire, complete with Keith Urban-style tremolos. Guaranteed culture shock!
Since it’s the custom here, we called the Country Club to book a table before the kitchen closed! The CC is the town’s—and even the region’s—fancy spot. Dark decor, modern furniture, dim lighting, and the air conditioning blasting. The twenty or so customers had taken refuge on the vast terrace, lit by torches. The view of the tall eucalyptus trees, illuminated by spotlights shifting from red to blue, was breathtaking.
The menu was minimal, but the grilled salmon was excellent, and the Pavlova (the meringue dessert Kiwis and Aussies have been arguing over since 1906) with melon and watermelon was absolutely divine.
It wasn’t even 9:00 PM, and we were already in bed. Had we already adopted the Top West End’s chicken schedule?!
To be continued... Journal dedicated to Attila
As usual, I didn’t manage to keep it short, but this time I’ve got photos to go with it!
August 2020. Since the opportunities to explore the world are extremely limited right now, all we (R&X) can do is explore our own island! Well, just a part of it, because with the state borders still closed, we’re stuck in Western Australia (WA).
Luckily, we’re pretty fortunate because this state is huge: over 2.5 million km² (that’s more than four times the size of France or 1.5 times Quebec). What’s more, stretching over 20 degrees of latitude between the Antarctic Ocean and the Timor Sea, you’ll find climates ranging from Mediterranean to arid to tropical. That’s actually why we decided to head as far north as possible. Sick of the endless rainy winter in Perth, bring on the heat of the Kimberley... way up Nooorth!
Friday. At the airport, the main terminal was closed (not enough flights), so we ended up in the annex (where flights to the various mines usually depart from). There was no crowd at the gate, and in this huge, single departure lounge, empty seats were plentiful. Only three flights were listed on the screens for the rest of the morning: the first to Coondewanna (?), the second to Darwin, and ours to Kununurra (code KNX).
A cool breeze swept through the half-open corridors along the runways. At the top of the walkway leading to the Fokker 100 (the Airbuses and Boeings are now parked!), a flight attendant greeted us with a basket full of sanitary masks. We were actually the only masked passengers (the staff weren’t wearing them either). With zero Covid-19 cases in WA at the time, the only rule was to maintain social distancing—something pretty hard to do on a full plane!
It was also my first time wearing a mask—it felt weird, pretty uncomfortable, and after a while, painful behind the ears. I really feel for those who have to wear one all day, every day. The flight lasted three long hours, but luckily, I had a good book. From the window, I watched an endless expanse of salt lakes in all shapes and sizes—round, elongated, gray, white, sometimes blue and green—and an infinity of winding, capricious meanders, along with long straight lines that led nowhere. The last half-hour got more interesting as rocky, swollen formations and long, sloping plateaus appeared. Against the vast ochre landscape, green patches became more frequent.



Just before landing, rows of green fields briefly appeared, along with an surprisingly wide river—but we were already rolling down the tarmac. A few hangars, a myriad of small, stationary planes, and a tiny terminal topped with a sign: “Welcome to Kununurra.”



We wanted heat, and here it was—34°C the moment we stepped off the plane! We felt alive again and totally ridiculous in our jeans and sweaters. We quickly grabbed our suitcase and picked up the 4x4 we’d rented—more out of necessity, since only that type of vehicle can access the national parks we planned to visit.
Just four kilometers separated us from Kununurra, a town of 5,000 people founded in 1961 during the construction of the Lake Argyle Dam and the development of the Ord River Irrigation Area Scheme (more on that later). On the horizon, mountain ranges (a bit of an exaggeration, since we know Mt. Meharry, WA’s highest ‘mountain,’ doesn’t even reach 1,250 meters!) and closer to the road, a few irrigation canals cutting through stretches of bush, then a huge park overlooking a small lake lined with reeds.
A row of baobabs (yes, there are baobabs in Australia too!), a series of motels with immaculate lawns, a gas station, and there’s the main street leading to the town center—that is, the parking lots of the two supermarkets, the bottleshop, the pub, the Town Hall, the municipal pool, and the Tourist Office (already closed!), and at the next roundabout, another park, the Presbyterian church, and a few other shops. In short, two or three green blocks that you can explore in no time.
One road leads to the small industrial area and one of the town’s three or four campgrounds, while another heads toward the residential neighborhoods, which look just like the typical suburbs you find in any Australian city—except with tropical vegetation. We stocked up at Coles, an identical copy of the one near our place, and—surprise—the prices were practically the same.
We checked into one of the motels. The receptionist listed the town’s three or four restaurants, insisting that it’s always better to book a table. She recommended the Pump House, a bit outside town on the lake’s edge. “Best spot to watch the sunset, but hurry up.” she told us. It was only 5:00 PM!
When we got there half an hour later, the place was packed, and the sun had already disappeared behind a row of trees! Sure enough, we’d see a few days later that the sunset can be a stunning spectacle—if you wait a bit for the sky (especially if it’s cloudy) to blaze and reflect in the lake’s calm waters. A little disappointed, we headed back into town, where we easily found the other lively spot in town: the pub (nothing like an old English pub). Above the long L-shaped bar, several giant screens (thankfully muted) were broadcasting live footy, rugby league, etc. In one corner, players circled the pool table, while in another, customers were digging into plates of the day’s special. Instead of rooms, there were various patios where groups of friends and coworkers (easily recognizable by the fluoro vests they were still wearing) were gathered. We found a table under a mango tree—unfortunately, a little too close to the guitarist strumming his entire Country Music repertoire, complete with Keith Urban-style tremolos. Guaranteed culture shock!
Since it’s the custom here, we called the Country Club to book a table before the kitchen closed! The CC is the town’s—and even the region’s—fancy spot. Dark decor, modern furniture, dim lighting, and the air conditioning blasting. The twenty or so customers had taken refuge on the vast terrace, lit by torches. The view of the tall eucalyptus trees, illuminated by spotlights shifting from red to blue, was breathtaking.
The menu was minimal, but the grilled salmon was excellent, and the Pavlova (the meringue dessert Kiwis and Aussies have been arguing over since 1906) with melon and watermelon was absolutely divine.
It wasn’t even 9:00 PM, and we were already in bed. Had we already adopted the Top West End’s chicken schedule?!
To be continued... Journal dedicated to Attila
Hi there,
My wife, our 3-year-old son, and I are planning a trip along Australia’s East Coast, leaving in early October and returning in mid-November. The plan is to do a 4-week road trip in a campervan, then settle down for about ten days.
The question I’m asking myself is: which way should we go? From Sydney to Cairns or the other way around? Despite all the documentation I’ve read, I’m still struggling to decide the best direction based on the climate at that time and swimming conditions.
Up north, the weather will be warmer, and the water too, unlike the south. However, in the north, there are swimming restrictions, especially because of jellyfish, whereas in the south, there seems to be less danger (apart from sharks, maybe). Are there many protected beaches in the north where we can swim safely? Also, I should consider that in the south, the Great Barrier Reef no longer protects the beaches, so I imagine there are fewer calm spots for swimming?
I’d love any tips or advice you can share, and thanks in advance!
A dad keen to make this trip a success
My wife, our 3-year-old son, and I are planning a trip along Australia’s East Coast, leaving in early October and returning in mid-November. The plan is to do a 4-week road trip in a campervan, then settle down for about ten days.
The question I’m asking myself is: which way should we go? From Sydney to Cairns or the other way around? Despite all the documentation I’ve read, I’m still struggling to decide the best direction based on the climate at that time and swimming conditions.
Up north, the weather will be warmer, and the water too, unlike the south. However, in the north, there are swimming restrictions, especially because of jellyfish, whereas in the south, there seems to be less danger (apart from sharks, maybe). Are there many protected beaches in the north where we can swim safely? Also, I should consider that in the south, the Great Barrier Reef no longer protects the beaches, so I imagine there are fewer calm spots for swimming?
I’d love any tips or advice you can share, and thanks in advance!
A dad keen to make this trip a success
Hi there!!
I’ve already been to Australia twice: Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Cairns, Brisbane, Ayers Rock, Alice Springs, Perth, and the surrounding areas.
I’d love to see Darwin and other amazing spots in this country!!
I’m booking my flight ticket for about three and a half to four weeks max....
I’ll be traveling solo for this trip.
I’m planning to leave in mid-May—apparently, the weather’s pretty good then.
Any tips you can share? Routes to take? Must-do activities??
Thanks so much for your help!!!!
What to do in Perth, Australia in March?
Hi there,
for a 6-month trip to Australia and NZ starting in NOVEMBER, I’d like to visit PNG and the Solomon Islands. Has anyone already explored these two countries?
How can you travel solo there—transport, accommodation, banking, safety—and what’s the best way to get there from AUS?
Thanks for any tips! Are there any French-language sites about these destinations?
Cheers,
jps
Hi there,
I’m leaving on March 4th for Australia from Réunion Island, landing in Perth, then a road trip down to Melbourne before flying out to Vietnam on April 15th.
I’d like to visit Perth and the surrounding area, then head southwest to Margaret River, Albany, Esperance, and back to Perth to catch a flight to Adelaide. From there, I’ll make my way to Melbourne.
1/ What do you think of this itinerary?
2/ For flights, are there any domestic airlines worth prioritizing for good prices?
3/ I’m planning to rent a car after exploring Perth and the area—I’m traveling solo. Any rental companies you’d recommend, as well as nice hotels, B&Bs, or hostels?
4/ Any tips, good deals, or info are welcome—don’t hesitate to share!
Thanks in advance.
Sunday, October 1st, 2023
Mulhouse-London
We dumped our trash on our neighbors. We hugged, overflowing with emotion. Then Léa from Taxis S showed up. She knows us well. For ages, she’s been our driver. She was practically the official taxiwoman for the trips of the company where Dom and I met. She knew us when we were single! Almost teenagers! She knows everyone and fills in the biographies of people we’d forgotten.
Across the street, while we loaded the luggage, S., perched in his window frame, waved a handkerchief. This wasn’t just any trip.
Then things got tricky. It’s funny how fate sinks its teeth into our happy moments—there’s this whole intermediate phase where the poison seeps in unnoticed because you’re still in the dark...
First, there was a delay on our flight to London. Dom immediately went on high alert, while I stayed calm. In my mind, we had two hours. I knew we had to go from Terminal 5 to Terminal 4, but two hours—come on, that’s plenty, right?

Bad calculation! Because those two hours were between the first flight’s landing and the second’s takeoff. But flights close at least half an hour before departure. Getting from one terminal to another means taking a shuttle bus. We waited for the one going to Terminal 4... until a young guy paid to direct people (who hadn’t seen us) informed us it was no longer possible to access Terminal 4 without going through Terminal 2 first for a connection! That really cranked up the pressure. We started installing a mental countdown with a programmed explosion at the end—guaranteed stress with added beads of sweat. The terminal bus was driven by a young Pakistani guy. We were *so* tense we bombarded him with our frantic, repetitive questions. “So? When are we getting there? What’s happening? Why aren’t we moving?” Our eyes were glued to our watches. The poor guy knew. Perfectly. Because it was obvious—no way around it. We weren’t going to make it. It was impossible. But Dom and I stubbornly refused to believe it. Then the kid stopped the bus. Me, hysterical: “What are you doing? What’s going on? Our plane takes off in... in... 4 minutes!!!! We’re gonna miss iiiiiit!” He wasn’t calm either. “You’ve already missed it!” He explained we had to cross a zone that required an escort car to clear a path through the runways. Impossible to do without. It’s forbidden. We had to WAIT (!!!). Then he got a radio call—he had to rush to Terminal 3 to pick up a passenger who was *super* tight on time. “Amir!!!! It’s RIGHT NOW!” they yelled in his already-red ears, thanks to the complaints of two hysterical Frenchies. Dom and I were in overdrive, hallucinating! We wanted to stop him, maybe even hit him to prevent him from turning around. He picked up the girl, whom we instantly hated like the most despicable witch. I turned on my data, searched for Malaysia Airlines’ number at Terminal 4, called, and actually got someone—quite a feat. A woman cut off my frantic rambling with a blunt “It’s over, the check-in is closed, the plane is about to take off.” I heard her but refused to accept it. I yelled, “We’re coming!” She shot back her monolithic “It’s over.” Finally at the doors of that damn Terminal 4, we ran—*really* ran—a marathon, Gate 6, security checks, pat-downs, “Take off your belts,” we asked questions, everyone seemed confident, we ran with one hand holding up our pants, the other clutching our belt, Gate 6—the room was empty. A girl was sitting there, calmly on the phone. We pounced on her. She calmed us down. Little by little, the light came back. Our brains rebooted. We finally understood it was over. We’d have to start crafting a new plan with the new reality. It started with a return to Terminal 5 to talk to British Airways, which took a good hour. With the same driver as before. We were alone with him. He took the time to apologize, to assure us it wasn’t his fault, that our problem had no solution, that nothing could’ve changed the outcome. At BA, we were exhausted. We were greeted by a handsome young man in a navy-blue uniform with gold stripes everywhere. We could’ve made a scene, but we were just relieved to find someone who’d take charge of our story. It was a minimal response, but it was *a* response. I suppose we could’ve demanded a business-class upgrade or a free trip, but we were just happy with a few vouchers for food, a hotel room with breakfast, and a little bag with plastic toys, a razor, toothbrush, hygiene products, and a T-shirt... Trinkets... But we were fine with it all—we said thank you eagerly because the essential was assured. He found us seats on flights tomorrow. *Tomorrow.* We were afraid to hope! We had the exact same flights but a day later. The same crappy times, but it was all good. We felt saved from the shipwreck, like survivors. - And what about the luggage? - .... !!!!
Monday, October 2nd, 2023 London - Kuala Lumpur
It wasn’t the Ritz, but with exhaustion on our side, we slept well. The continental breakfast was way better than we’d expected from an Ibis Budget. Still, it wasn’t enough to restore my joy for life. The course correction had turned into an arduous obstacle course. I scoured the car rental site every which way. Couldn’t reschedule the car. I’d done it before, but this time... Not to mention the laptop battery was complaining—the Brits have this quirk of making their power outlets incompatible with our chargers. Frustrated, I called them but ended up with a girl who declared herself incompetent and offered to have someone from Avis in Perth call me back—someone who’d supposedly handle rentals better. I decided to wait while taking a bath. Barely settled in, the phone rang. I was soaking wet, of course, and asked Dom to answer. Unfortunately, she’s known for disliking my phone, and in a clumsy move, she hung up. We got annoyed. She put dry towels on the edge of the bathtub, but—another false move—they fell in the water. The phone rang again... I completely redid the plans for the next two days, then transferred the files to my phone to consult them later offline. I plugged in my USB cable... *Plop!* The battery died abruptly—my PC shut down without any of the usual polite warnings! I looked around, hoping to find someone to strangle... Long story short, you can tell the day started under the worst omens. I was in a foul mood and spread my bad vibes to Dominique, who was initially in much better spirits... I called Mastercard, hoping to get a refund for the non-refundable night in Perth we’d already paid for. Same old song: “We’ll call you back”... Then... I’ll cut it short—buses, trains, lots of waiting... We rushed to reach the infamous Terminal 4.

We tried new options and convinced ourselves that a delayed departure flight is unrecoverable, no matter the scenario. We were furious that BA hadn’t bothered to tell us, leaving us to run around like rats in a burning house.
Tuesday, October 3rd, 2023 Kuala Lumpur-Perth
The flight was pretty nice. 13 hours, though. Dom and I were facing each other across the aisle. We could get up easily whenever we wanted without bothering anyone and chat when we felt like it. Besides, their chicken was amazing. They were kind enough to offer Dom a truly remarkable glass of rum. Good movies too, including the excellent *Prisoners* by Denis Villeneuve. At KL, during boarding, we developed a nagging worry about our luggage. We checked with some Malaysian Airlines staff. I sensed their hesitation. They made calls. Then changed their minds, giving us smiles and thumbs up...
Wednesday, October 4th, 2023 Perth
*Happy is the man who, like Ulysses, has had a fine voyage.* Well, for us, it wasn’t that. Finally arrived, we experienced the loneliness of tourists watching the baggage carousel spin, emptying of its precious containers one by one, until only a handful of travelers were left, staring at each other in disbelief. Without luggage, you’re kinda screwed. Not even a change of socks—our feet had been swimming in the same shoes for 3 days. No adapter, so no laptop. No toiletries. We could’ve cried! The lost luggage guy played his part. If you want compensation, fill out the disclaimer on the website made for that. And then, “Don’t worry, your luggage will arrive tomorrow!” “Don’t worry?!” From the start of the trip, we’ve been jerked around, fed lies. Tomorrow is the *absolute* last chance to get them back. Beyond that, we’d have to scramble a whole new trip. And lose a lot in the process! I have no idea how to go about it. Tomorrow... OMG... Tomorrow... We landed at 1 AM. Avis, the car rental place, opens at 6:30. Luckily, we found some decent breakfast. It cheered us up and gave us a second wind. Incorrigible, we started believing again! Well, then we just killed time. What else was there to do?

In front of Avis’s little shack, we were freezing. We’d been there since dawn. The girl who showed up, a Latina, immediately saw us as a nuisance who’d ruin her hopes of a peaceful start. Her face and tone were as unwelcoming as possible. You know us—it ended with hugs. She gave us a gorgeous, brand-new car! A hybrid with ultra-sophisticated features, all buttons you shouldn’t touch if you want to drive this thing without causing irreparable damage! We’re off! Driving on the left is easy at first. You think about it constantly. It’s counterintuitive, it takes effort. It’s later, when you get used to it and confidence sets in, that it becomes dangerous—old reflexes can send you into a wall. Anyway, the car and I immediately clicked.
In Perth, underground parking next to the hotel, friendly welcome—we ended up forgetting all the morning’s mishaps. Should we go sightseeing?
https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1733767537-5Nwk6t3DsBZNOzf.jpg
Across the street, while we loaded the luggage, S., perched in his window frame, waved a handkerchief. This wasn’t just any trip.
Then things got tricky. It’s funny how fate sinks its teeth into our happy moments—there’s this whole intermediate phase where the poison seeps in unnoticed because you’re still in the dark...
First, there was a delay on our flight to London. Dom immediately went on high alert, while I stayed calm. In my mind, we had two hours. I knew we had to go from Terminal 5 to Terminal 4, but two hours—come on, that’s plenty, right?

Bad calculation! Because those two hours were between the first flight’s landing and the second’s takeoff. But flights close at least half an hour before departure. Getting from one terminal to another means taking a shuttle bus. We waited for the one going to Terminal 4... until a young guy paid to direct people (who hadn’t seen us) informed us it was no longer possible to access Terminal 4 without going through Terminal 2 first for a connection! That really cranked up the pressure. We started installing a mental countdown with a programmed explosion at the end—guaranteed stress with added beads of sweat. The terminal bus was driven by a young Pakistani guy. We were *so* tense we bombarded him with our frantic, repetitive questions. “So? When are we getting there? What’s happening? Why aren’t we moving?” Our eyes were glued to our watches. The poor guy knew. Perfectly. Because it was obvious—no way around it. We weren’t going to make it. It was impossible. But Dom and I stubbornly refused to believe it. Then the kid stopped the bus. Me, hysterical: “What are you doing? What’s going on? Our plane takes off in... in... 4 minutes!!!! We’re gonna miss iiiiiit!” He wasn’t calm either. “You’ve already missed it!” He explained we had to cross a zone that required an escort car to clear a path through the runways. Impossible to do without. It’s forbidden. We had to WAIT (!!!). Then he got a radio call—he had to rush to Terminal 3 to pick up a passenger who was *super* tight on time. “Amir!!!! It’s RIGHT NOW!” they yelled in his already-red ears, thanks to the complaints of two hysterical Frenchies. Dom and I were in overdrive, hallucinating! We wanted to stop him, maybe even hit him to prevent him from turning around. He picked up the girl, whom we instantly hated like the most despicable witch. I turned on my data, searched for Malaysia Airlines’ number at Terminal 4, called, and actually got someone—quite a feat. A woman cut off my frantic rambling with a blunt “It’s over, the check-in is closed, the plane is about to take off.” I heard her but refused to accept it. I yelled, “We’re coming!” She shot back her monolithic “It’s over.” Finally at the doors of that damn Terminal 4, we ran—*really* ran—a marathon, Gate 6, security checks, pat-downs, “Take off your belts,” we asked questions, everyone seemed confident, we ran with one hand holding up our pants, the other clutching our belt, Gate 6—the room was empty. A girl was sitting there, calmly on the phone. We pounced on her. She calmed us down. Little by little, the light came back. Our brains rebooted. We finally understood it was over. We’d have to start crafting a new plan with the new reality. It started with a return to Terminal 5 to talk to British Airways, which took a good hour. With the same driver as before. We were alone with him. He took the time to apologize, to assure us it wasn’t his fault, that our problem had no solution, that nothing could’ve changed the outcome. At BA, we were exhausted. We were greeted by a handsome young man in a navy-blue uniform with gold stripes everywhere. We could’ve made a scene, but we were just relieved to find someone who’d take charge of our story. It was a minimal response, but it was *a* response. I suppose we could’ve demanded a business-class upgrade or a free trip, but we were just happy with a few vouchers for food, a hotel room with breakfast, and a little bag with plastic toys, a razor, toothbrush, hygiene products, and a T-shirt... Trinkets... But we were fine with it all—we said thank you eagerly because the essential was assured. He found us seats on flights tomorrow. *Tomorrow.* We were afraid to hope! We had the exact same flights but a day later. The same crappy times, but it was all good. We felt saved from the shipwreck, like survivors. - And what about the luggage? - .... !!!!

Monday, October 2nd, 2023 London - Kuala Lumpur

It wasn’t the Ritz, but with exhaustion on our side, we slept well. The continental breakfast was way better than we’d expected from an Ibis Budget. Still, it wasn’t enough to restore my joy for life. The course correction had turned into an arduous obstacle course. I scoured the car rental site every which way. Couldn’t reschedule the car. I’d done it before, but this time... Not to mention the laptop battery was complaining—the Brits have this quirk of making their power outlets incompatible with our chargers. Frustrated, I called them but ended up with a girl who declared herself incompetent and offered to have someone from Avis in Perth call me back—someone who’d supposedly handle rentals better. I decided to wait while taking a bath. Barely settled in, the phone rang. I was soaking wet, of course, and asked Dom to answer. Unfortunately, she’s known for disliking my phone, and in a clumsy move, she hung up. We got annoyed. She put dry towels on the edge of the bathtub, but—another false move—they fell in the water. The phone rang again... I completely redid the plans for the next two days, then transferred the files to my phone to consult them later offline. I plugged in my USB cable... *Plop!* The battery died abruptly—my PC shut down without any of the usual polite warnings! I looked around, hoping to find someone to strangle... Long story short, you can tell the day started under the worst omens. I was in a foul mood and spread my bad vibes to Dominique, who was initially in much better spirits... I called Mastercard, hoping to get a refund for the non-refundable night in Perth we’d already paid for. Same old song: “We’ll call you back”... Then... I’ll cut it short—buses, trains, lots of waiting... We rushed to reach the infamous Terminal 4.

We tried new options and convinced ourselves that a delayed departure flight is unrecoverable, no matter the scenario. We were furious that BA hadn’t bothered to tell us, leaving us to run around like rats in a burning house.
Tuesday, October 3rd, 2023 Kuala Lumpur-Perth
The flight was pretty nice. 13 hours, though. Dom and I were facing each other across the aisle. We could get up easily whenever we wanted without bothering anyone and chat when we felt like it. Besides, their chicken was amazing. They were kind enough to offer Dom a truly remarkable glass of rum. Good movies too, including the excellent *Prisoners* by Denis Villeneuve. At KL, during boarding, we developed a nagging worry about our luggage. We checked with some Malaysian Airlines staff. I sensed their hesitation. They made calls. Then changed their minds, giving us smiles and thumbs up...
Wednesday, October 4th, 2023 Perth
*Happy is the man who, like Ulysses, has had a fine voyage.* Well, for us, it wasn’t that. Finally arrived, we experienced the loneliness of tourists watching the baggage carousel spin, emptying of its precious containers one by one, until only a handful of travelers were left, staring at each other in disbelief. Without luggage, you’re kinda screwed. Not even a change of socks—our feet had been swimming in the same shoes for 3 days. No adapter, so no laptop. No toiletries. We could’ve cried! The lost luggage guy played his part. If you want compensation, fill out the disclaimer on the website made for that. And then, “Don’t worry, your luggage will arrive tomorrow!” “Don’t worry?!” From the start of the trip, we’ve been jerked around, fed lies. Tomorrow is the *absolute* last chance to get them back. Beyond that, we’d have to scramble a whole new trip. And lose a lot in the process! I have no idea how to go about it. Tomorrow... OMG... Tomorrow... We landed at 1 AM. Avis, the car rental place, opens at 6:30. Luckily, we found some decent breakfast. It cheered us up and gave us a second wind. Incorrigible, we started believing again! Well, then we just killed time. What else was there to do?


In front of Avis’s little shack, we were freezing. We’d been there since dawn. The girl who showed up, a Latina, immediately saw us as a nuisance who’d ruin her hopes of a peaceful start. Her face and tone were as unwelcoming as possible. You know us—it ended with hugs. She gave us a gorgeous, brand-new car! A hybrid with ultra-sophisticated features, all buttons you shouldn’t touch if you want to drive this thing without causing irreparable damage! We’re off! Driving on the left is easy at first. You think about it constantly. It’s counterintuitive, it takes effort. It’s later, when you get used to it and confidence sets in, that it becomes dangerous—old reflexes can send you into a wall. Anyway, the car and I immediately clicked.
In Perth, underground parking next to the hotel, friendly welcome—we ended up forgetting all the morning’s mishaps. Should we go sightseeing?

https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1733767537-5Nwk6t3DsBZNOzf.jpg
Tuesday, December 5, 2023
Melbourne – Lorne
We pick up the car 500 meters away, in a Chinatown parking lot that the hotel has a deal with, then it’s off with a *vroom vroom* while listening to a podcast about the victim of a compulsive mythomaniac—who also happens to be her husband—leading a completely compartmentalized double life. Later, he discovers, after contacting his alter-ego from this parallel universe, that he was actually living a *third* life... and maybe even more? We arrive in Torquay, where we stretch our legs along the Koorie Cultural Walk with a view of Bells Beach...


It’s here, just outside Lorne, that the Great Ocean Road officially begins...
We arrive at our apartment, which is pretty nice—Dom and I are really particular about the quality of our terraces. I’ve never really talked about the practical quirks of daily life in Australia. For example, I could tell you that *every single* power outlet we used on this trip had a switch to turn it on or off. No exceptions, ever! Why? They must find it useful, but for us, it’s a total mystery... And of course, their power outlets require an adapter. Just one of many little peculiarities.
Another odd observation: *every* toilet, even the most remote ones hidden deep in the bush, always had a roll of toilet paper available. No shortages here!
And then we’re greeted by a big family of cute sparrows...


We spent a long time enjoying their pool before heading out for a walk—all the way to Erskine Falls, about ten kilometers away...
We pick up the car 500 meters away, in a Chinatown parking lot that the hotel has a deal with, then it’s off with a *vroom vroom* while listening to a podcast about the victim of a compulsive mythomaniac—who also happens to be her husband—leading a completely compartmentalized double life. Later, he discovers, after contacting his alter-ego from this parallel universe, that he was actually living a *third* life... and maybe even more? We arrive in Torquay, where we stretch our legs along the Koorie Cultural Walk with a view of Bells Beach...



It’s here, just outside Lorne, that the Great Ocean Road officially begins...

We arrive at our apartment, which is pretty nice—Dom and I are really particular about the quality of our terraces. I’ve never really talked about the practical quirks of daily life in Australia. For example, I could tell you that *every single* power outlet we used on this trip had a switch to turn it on or off. No exceptions, ever! Why? They must find it useful, but for us, it’s a total mystery... And of course, their power outlets require an adapter. Just one of many little peculiarities.
Another odd observation: *every* toilet, even the most remote ones hidden deep in the bush, always had a roll of toilet paper available. No shortages here!
And then we’re greeted by a big family of cute sparrows...

We spent a long time enjoying their pool before heading out for a walk—all the way to Erskine Falls, about ten kilometers away...

We’ll be in Adelaide from February 24th to March 4th and we’d like to spend 3 days and 2 nights on Kangaroo Island.
Any recommendations?
We always travel with simple accommodations
Hi everyone, we're heading to Australia next month. We have 7 days to go from Adelaide to Melbourne via the Great Ocean Road. Should we visit Kangaroo Island or not? We can't decide! Thanks for your advice.
We really want to see kangaroos and koalas in their natural habitat.
We really want to see kangaroos and koalas in their natural habitat.
Hi there! I’m planning my trip for next year in February—5 weeks total: 3 weeks in southern Australia and 2 weeks on New Zealand’s North Island. (We’ve already explored all of New Zealand a few years ago, which is why we’re only spending 15 days on the North Island this time.)
My question is about flights. What’s the most cost-effective and economical route: France → Sydney → Auckland → France, or France → Auckland → Sydney → France? Any airline recommendations? Thanks so much!
My question is about flights. What’s the most cost-effective and economical route: France → Sydney → Auckland → France, or France → Auckland → Sydney → France? Any airline recommendations? Thanks so much!






