Back from New Caledonia

Hi Nadège,

My friend and I are planning a trip to New Caledonia in October (around 10 days), specifically to the Isle of Pines. Do you have any tips to share? Have you visited the island? Since we don’t have a huge budget, do you have any suggestions for us?

Looking forward to hearing from you...

Susana

Hey Nadege, I’m planning to head there in two weeks (inshallah), and I’d love to hear about your experience... I’ve also got a couple of questions: how pricey is it really (food and other essentials for keeping the body running ;))? Did you do any wild camping? Does hitchhiking work well? Basically, a bunch of stuff... Antoine

Hi Jova, here’s some info about Île des Pins. We took the Betico ferry to get there, which cost us 19,600 CFP for two (that’s 163 €). Contrary to what you might hear, we weren’t tossed around too much. Once we arrived, we walked to Gîte Kuberka (about a 15-minute walk), which turned out to be one of the cheapest camping options (1,050 CFP for a tent + 500 CFP per extra person, so 1,550 CFP for two for one night), but it wasn’t super welcoming. I’m telling you we walked because there are shuttles, but they’re pricey. The upside is you can enjoy both bays (Kanuméra and Kuto), which are right nearby and absolutely stunning.

From the gîte, we booked a pirogue trip to Upi Bay that takes you to the natural pool. The pirogue costs 1,500 CFP per person (12 €), and the bus ride to Saint Joseph Bay to catch it is 250 CFP per person one way. Normally, the plan is you leave by pirogue, spend the day at the natural pool near Régis’s place, and the bus picks you up around 3 PM to take you back to the gîte. We handed our bags to the shuttle, which dropped them off at Régis’s so we could spend a few days at the pool without lugging our stuff around.

Once at the pool, you can either sleep at Régis’s—I think it’s 1,500 CFP per night for camping—or we stayed at Kugny’s (1,200 CFP per night), but the shower is just a garden hose. Kugny’s is next to the Méridien; it’s the lobster restaurant. The best part is that in the evening, after everyone leaves, you practically have the natural pool to yourself—it’s magical, and the sunset by the sand river is a must-see.

Finally, the highlight: we went to the north of the island, to Gadgi on Crab Bay, to stay with Marie-Odile, a tiny 74-year-old woman who’s an absolute character you shouldn’t miss. The tent is 1,000 CFP per night, and meals are 1,000 CFP per person. You need to let her know in advance if you want to eat since she’s elderly. This bay is amazing because at low tide in the morning, you can access all the surrounding islets, including the one from *Koh-Lanta*’s Red Team. She’ll even tell you stories about *Koh-Lanta* because she used to feed the show’s losers! She took us crabbing and shellfish gathering, and we helped prepare them for dinner—such a cool experience! Marie-Odile is definitely worth the trip.

To get there, we took a shuttle (Alexandre), but the ride was pretty expensive. On the way back, a police officer gave us a lift to Kuto Bay. Hitchhiking works well on the island, and you *must* bring fins, masks, and snorkels. Renting bikes or cars is super expensive, but you can rent bikes in Nouméa and bring them over—though I think hitchhiking is a solid option. There are few grocery stores (in Vao and near Kuto), and they’re pricey, so we brought our own stove and some supplies.

Anyway, if you need more info, just ask! See you soon, Nadège

Hi there! To answer your questions—yes, the cost of living is high, and food isn’t cheap, but you can save on accommodation, especially camping. We spent a month there, and it’s true we ate pasta and rice almost every night, but that was our choice. If you don’t have luxury tastes and have a good camping stove, you can keep your meals simple: pasta or rice with sauce, some compote, and coconuts, and you’re set. There’s plenty of fruit there too.

I think hitchhiking works pretty well, but you’re limited if you want to access beaches, especially on the west coast where you have to leave the main road and walk a few kilometers to reach them. On the other hand, the east coast road runs along the ocean, so no problem there. I know there are quite a few buses running too, and they’re not expensive, so that could be a good option. We rented a car from Point Rouge (around 300 € for 11 days, not including gas). We camped every night—lots of campgrounds are free and well-equipped (with farés, cold showers, tables, and barbecues). Every time we wild-camped, we never felt unsafe. That said, paid campgrounds aren’t too expensive (1,000 to 1,200 CFP per night).

Basically, we did a loop around the island in 11 days (west and east coasts and the north). Then we spent 5 days on the Isle of Pines. Finally, we wrapped up our trip in the south with a three-day hike from Prony to the Blue River Park. Let me know if you want more details!

Bye, Nadège

Cool! :) Thanks a lot. Just for info, could you tell me roughly how much one euro is in CFP francs? See you soon!

Just so you know, 1 euro = 119.33 XPF and 100 XPF = 0.83 €. Let me know if you want to know anything else!

😎Hi Nadège,

Thanks so much for your reply. To be honest, this is my first trip outside Europe. I was thinking of Île des Pins because I’ve heard it’s gorgeous. But maybe you’d recommend another island? I don’t want to plan my whole trip in advance, but on Île des Pins, it seems like it might be better to do so. Generally, I’m not really into camping, and what worries me are the mosquitoes… 😕Are any vaccines recommended before I go?

See you soon, Susana

Hi Susana, I didn’t quite get it—how long are you going for exactly? Are you planning to visit the mainland because Île des Pins is gorgeous, but 5 days is more than enough to explore it since it’s not very varied unless you’re really into marine life. I’ve been to Guadeloupe before, and I think it offers a lot more variety for a longer trip, though it’s definitely less stunning. Let’s just say if you only have 10 days, it’s not worth going that far. Réunion Island also looks great, but I’ve never been. I do think there are a lot of mosquitoes since the heat’s coming back, and they can be pretty aggressive.

Hello, I’d like to spend 10 days on a paradise island... but there are so many! Personally, I’m not really into "marine life"; snorkeling is OK, but diving is a NO🤪. What I really want is to see stunning landscapes, enjoy the sun, and meet the locals... I’m torn with the Seychelles—it’s closer and looks absolutely splendid.

Thanks again for your advice, and see you soon! Susana

Hi there! 🙂

With the departure date approaching (September 23), I still have a few questions about organizing our stay on Grande Terre. We’ll have a rental car and will be spending 1 night in Bourail, 2 nights in Malabou, and 2 nights in Hienghène.

What shouldn’t we miss in the area? We’re planning to do a river trip. Is it better to go up the Hienghène River or the Diahot River (in Ouéga)? And if there are mines to visit, is it better to check out the Pilou mines (in Malabou) or the Diahot River mines?

Last questions for now: Which cross-island route is best for returning to Nouméa after Hienghène? The "Tiwaka-Koné" cross-island road or the "Houaïlou-Bourail" one, considering we fly to Maré at 5:50 PM?

Thanks in advance for your answers! Marcalamar 🙂

Hi,

Just a quick reply to your question about Malabou Beach in POUM.

I went there 6 years ago, and you should know there’s nothing else around except that hotel... so you’re stuck eating there (super expensive...) and all the activities are also only available within the resort (also super expensive...).🤪

Things may have changed since then, but you know, it’s better to be warned and check out other options before heading there.😉

hi,

A little tip: the site http://www.noumeashop.com/convertisseur.htm

converts XPF to euros online... instantly!

There you go... 😉

thanks wonderwoumen😛

hi there! 🙂 Thanks for the reply, Wondergirl, but the trip’s already all organized with a tour operator, and the hotels have been booked for ages, so there’s no way to switch hotels last minute. We’ll fill up the rental car before getting to Malabou Beach... Later! 🙂 Marcalamar

My partner and I are planning exactly the same kind of trip to New Caledonia—backpacking and camping for 3 weeks in December, but without a stove.

Could you give me a rough idea of the budget to expect while there (excluding airfare)?

Thanks!

TATATOU

PS: Did you keep a travel journal?

Hi, Just a little clarification: near Malabou Beach, there's the Golone campsite, which is very well-maintained, has hot water, and the owner is always ready to help—even bringing you small groceries from Poum. I spent a week there last month. Good luck. Keep in mind that New Caledonia, even though it's stunning, isn't a paradise island. Nothing is like what you might know. It's a country that doesn't reveal itself on its own; you have to go out and discover it. Nothing comes easily—you have to seek it out. That said, it was my second trip, and I'll definitely go back.

Hi,

Just a quick reply to your question about Malabou Beach in POUM.

I went there six years ago, and you should know that there’s nothing else around except this hotel... so you’re pretty much forced to eat there (super expensive...) and all the activities are also only available at the establishment (also super expensive...).🤪

Things may have changed since then, but it’s better to be warned and check out other options before heading there.😉

Hi there, I know New Caledonia well, and while the Isle of Pines is beautiful, for me it’s the least interesting of the Loyalty Islands. If I had to pick one island to visit, it’d be Lifou. On the Isle of Pines, you won’t find the warmth and Kanak authenticity. And for dream beaches and stunning spots, there are other islands just as beautiful—Lifou included. Personally, I was really disappointed with the Isle of Pines. The welcome at the guesthouses wasn’t great, and everything was super expensive. Anyway, the choice is yours!

OK😉

It's cool, as I was saying, things have changed since the year 2000. Anyway, it's good to know if you're going to Poum.

During my 6 weeks there, I wanted to treat myself to one night in an air-conditioned hotel, and I must say I was disappointed at Malabou Beach. That said, one night in the cool did us good.

Hi there, I saw your post about making contacts on the Isle of Pines. I went there last May, and I can tell you—it’s absolutely amazing. I also spent a few months in Nouméa, and it was by meeting real Kanaks and Polynesians that I got this fantastic tip. It’s about one of the brothers who own the Manamaky guesthouse. His name’s KiKi, and his wife is Jeannine. He’s Kanak, and she’s Polynesian. They have a speedboat and take you to explore Upi Bay, go around the reef, and drop you off on Nokanhui Atoll. It’s a paradise of white sand, coconut trees, mangroves, and crystal-clear ocean—so remote you’ll feel like you’re the only person in the world. While you’re there, they go fishing, and around noon, they come back to pick you up for lunch on their island. And that’s where you can have a vacation like nowhere else: if you ask, you can pitch a tent and live right by the coral reef, with no running water, electricity, or TV... just pure nature. Here’s the link to find them: http://www.ile-des-pins.com/activite.html#taxiboat. Just remember, even though they run this as a small business, they’re at home, so respect their land!

The rest of the island is incredible too. Oro Bay is stunning, and I recommend diving in the natural pool there. St. Joseph Bay, where Jeannine and KiKi live, is a spot for dolphins and even small whales—though only at certain times of the year...

I’d suggest taking the *bético* (a fast boat) from Nouméa to the Isle of Pines—it’s pretty cheap and quick, about two and a half hours if I remember right. Buy your tickets directly at the port, and don’t go through the Isle of Pines tourist office—they’ll try to sell you a hotel package that’ll tie you down. You can rent scooters on the island, but even better, hitch rides with the Melanesians driving pickups. I did it, and it’s a real taste of freedom.

Okay, I’ll stop writing now. If you need anything, just ask. And if I can help, I’ll let you know. *Tata*—that’s how they say ‘bye’ over there.

Hi,

Did you get my email with my private email address?

TATATOU

Hi Nadege,

I hope you don't mind me asking for some tips about New Caledonia—I'm planning to go from mid-December until the end of March 2007. Is it easy to travel from Nouméa to Australia and New Zealand? Also, I’ve heard that the cost of living is really high in New Caledonia—is that true?

Thanks in advance! Line

Hi tatatou, yes, I got your email and I’ll send you the summary of our expenses along with our travel journal with a few tips. But right now, it’s back-to-school time and I’m a bit swamped. Plus, I’m still typing up the travel journal on the computer, so you’ll have everything by the end of the week. See you soon! Nadège

Hi there, yes, life in New Caledonia is pretty expensive. It also seems that flight tickets from there aren’t cheap since there aren’t many airlines. You might want to book your trips from here instead. If you give me your email address, I can send you some addresses and other tips. See you soon, Nadège

Thanks so much, nadège31.

I’ll wait for your email.

TATATOU

Thanks in advance! I’ll check the boat fares for Australia and New Zealand too. If you don’t mind, here’s my email: linedelgoletto@hotmail.fr 😎

Hi Nadège,

I just read your post and thought I’d send you this message to get some info about New Caledonia.

We’re planning to go there with my husband for our honeymoon from April 15 to May 15, 2007. Like you, we want to travel adventurously—backpacks, tents, and all!

I’d love to get some practical tips (accommodation, campgrounds, tribes, places to visit, etc.), basically anything you think we should know before we go.

Thanks in advance for your reply!

Hope to hear from you soon,

Gaëlle

hey nadege, i’m heading to new caledonia with my family—my wife and two kids. We’re thinking of prioritizing camping, staying in a tribe, and making sure we stop by the Isle of Pines. We’re flying through Singapore via Australia and wrapping up with Aircalin.

My main worry is the layovers—do we have to collect our luggage at every plane change?

Should we be super organized and book everything in advance?

Thanks in advance!

Nadège

I’m back, hope you’ll have time to reply. I see you’re in high demand!

I’d also love to get an idea of the budget for a one-month trip there.

Thanks for the info, that’s really kind of you.

Gaëlle

Hi Gaelle, I'm currently typing up my travel journal on the computer. I've summarized our expenses for a month and also noted a few addresses. I'll send you everything as soon as I'm done, if my computer doesn't give out on me. See you soon, Nadège

Hi there, regarding the trip, we left from Toulouse via London, Bangkok, Sydney, and Nouméa. In London, we had our luggage checked through to Nouméa, so we didn’t have to lug it around during our layovers—which was a huge plus. We only spent two hours in Bangkok but nine hours in Sydney, where it’s worth asking your travel agent for a visa if you have a long stopover so you can leave the airport. Getting to downtown Sydney is pretty easy. For the rest, if you send me your email address, I’ll forward you our travel journal, a summary of our expenses, and some useful websites. See you soon, Nadège.

No rush at all, but I’m having some computer issues—it keeps freezing every 5 minutes. The travel journal is pretty much transcribed, so I’ll send it to you soon. Nadège

Awesome! Thanks so much, I can't wait.

Have a great day!

TATATOU

Hi Nadège,

I’m leaving for Nouméa on December 31st for 40 days. Could you tell me everything you did, your itinerary, the tribes, the islands if you went—basically anything and everything you can share? I’d really appreciate it!

hey nadege so you're back to work already! well, we got back on the 28th of AUGUST and I’ll admit we were a bit bummed too!!!! our bike trip didn’t end *too* badly—let’s just say we kinda pulled a MacGyver African-style by fixing a tire with a flip-flop, and it worked!!! let’s just say by the end, I was pretty fed up with dogs chasing us trying to eat our tires!!! but all good things must come to an end.... hugs see you soon thanks for the photo nat

Hi! I’ve finished my travel journal and the summary of our expenses there for a month. If you’re interested, just send me your personal email so I can send you everything as an attachment. See you soon, Nadège.

Hi Gaëlle, I’ve finally finished my travel journal with several tips that might interest you for your trip. Send me your email if you’d like me to share all of it. See you soon, Nadège

Hi Nadège

I’m sending you my email address: gaelle_legonidec@yahoo.fr

Thanks in advance and see you soon!

Gaëlle

good evening! 🙂 Thanks so much, Nadège, for the travel journal and all the info. It’ll really help me polish up my trip. Best, Marcalamar 🙂

hey lidg, I gathered you're planning a trip to the Caledonian rock. Here's a site I find cool—it's the New Caledonia guesthouses one, with addresses and photos of accommodations, activities, and car rentals: www.gitesnouvellecaledonie.com. Up to you to see what info you can use. Thanks for stopping by—you’ll see, New Caledonia is an amazing country with a thousand faces. Whether you head to the east coast, west coast, or the south, the landscapes change every time. Welcome to our place. filaki

hi 1 euro is 119.33 XPF

happy travels

Hey! So how’s New Caledonia? Is life expensive there?

New Caledonia is amazing when it comes to the cost of living—it’s actually expensive, though it really depends on what you want to do there. If you're planning to settle down, yeah, it’s pricey: housing, food, etc. But if you're just visiting, it all depends on how you travel. For us, with a tent and backpack, it didn’t end up being *that* expensive. On the other hand, staying in guesthouses is already a bit more costly. Then, once you're there, you’ll want to visit the surrounding islands, and that, of course, comes with a cost. It’s up to you how you organize your trip!

Nadege, Thanks for your availability regarding New Caledonia. I’m from Nouméa and work in tourism. The tourist culture here is still relatively young, and we still have work to do, but what some see as our flaws also make us unique. Let’s not hide our imperfections—it’ll help us improve faster. I manage the site www.gitesnouvellecaledonie.com, where you can find many of the addresses you’ve mentioned in your posts. It’s a portal for New Caledonian eco-tourism, and membership is voluntary, so it’s growing week by week in terms of sign-ups. We think that within a year, it’ll be mature enough to share even more visual info about New Caledonia. I just wanted to thank you for the tips you’ve already shared on this forum. Filaki.

I spent 2 years there—it’s fabulous! Exploring the marine life is easy and stunning. The northern part of the island is wilder and less touristy, but there are beautiful things to discover everywhere. Lots of info, tips, and the story of my adventures there on: https://coeurvoyageur.fr/