Wild Colombia off the tourist trail

So, as I mentioned in the other message, Chocó will be a real discovery. However, if you're looking for a place that's still very preserved, barely touristy, and absolutely stunning, I recommend Puerto Carreño in eastern Colombia. Completely off the beaten path—the downside is that many places are only reachable by canoe, so a guide is often necessary. Otherwise, you can do what I did last year: head to Rancho Barú near Puerto Carreño. You stay there and can explore the savanna and jungle spots at your own pace. The landscapes are breathtaking.

For practical info, there are three ways to get there: - By plane from Bogotá or Villavicencio - By boat from Puerto Gaitán (I left from Orocué, a bit further up the Río Meta—still a 10-hour boat ride, though) - By bus from Villavicencio (the longest option, and only doable in the dry season, December to April/May)

I’ve posted photos and more details here:

https://voyageforum.com/forum/costa-rica-surinam-compte-rendu-d10553369/

For wildlife observation, the least densely populated regions are obviously the most favorable: the Pacific coast, the Llanos Orientales, Guaviare, and the Amazon. A vast number of bird species (Colombia is a paradise for birdwatching) can be spotted much more easily than most French species, including in terms of how close you can get. As for going without a guide, it’s not always possible—or even advisable—for various reasons. To get a glimpse of the wildlife and many other aspects of the country, I’d suggest my latest book, published in September—one of the few "coffee-table books" on Colombia: www.philippepratx.net/Colpresent.htm. And of course, feel free to ask me for more details. Happy travels! !

Thanks for these invaluable tips. Bernard

Hey, I’m sharing a few photos from my week in Puerto Carreño and the surrounding area. The weather’s great and super hot right now. The water’s at the perfect temperature! :)

And for addresses, I’ve got two:

Hotel Delfines del Orinoco in PCR for 100,000 COP per night—what I think is the best hotel in town, with a pool and views of the Orinoco and Venezuela if you’re on the 3rd floor.

Rancho Baru, about 2–3 hours from PCR depending on your transport. It’s a little paradise, rustic savanna-style, with a river and waterfall right behind the ranch. The BIG downside, though, is the sandflies—they’ll eat you alive ALL day long. Nothing repels them, not even insecticide, so you’ve gotta have nerves of steel. Unless you’ve got a brand to recommend? Locals suggest Menticol repellent, available at pharmacies—apparently, it’s the only one that kinda works. Otherwise, pack long pants, long-sleeve shirts, neck protection, etc.… but trust me, it’s worth the hassle. At night, mosquitoes take over, but a basic repellent handles those just fine. All-inclusive (meals, transport, drinks—no alcohol) runs about 250,000 COP per person per day.

Still live from Puerto Carreño

Hi everyone, still on the theme of wild Colombia—I’m in Nuquí on the Pacific coast.

I’ll say it straight up: the scenery is stunning, but it’s really spoiled by the dirt and trash absolutely everywhere, especially on the beach.

We’ll still spend the night in Nuquí, but we’re leaving tomorrow for Pangui, at Playa Olímpica, which is just past Nuquí and is gorgeous and clean.

I don’t get how beaches can be trashed like this, especially when you think about Costa Rica, where almost all the beaches are super clean....

Chocó, a department kept in poverty by Colombian governments for decades (in fact, "forever"), because it's mainly populated by Afro-Colombians and *indígenas*, can't be compared to Costa Rica, which decided to go all-in (especially in terms of investments) on tourism and project an eco-friendly image. In Chocó, there are few tourists, very little money, waste washing up from the south (Buenaventura) via the Humboldt Current, and a population focused on survival rather than tourism. That’s at least part of the explanation.

Hiking without a guide with immersion in the forest, for example, far from tourist spots

Hi, I did San Agustín to Popayán solo and without a guide in 4 days of walking on small mountain trails, passing by the sources of the Magdalena (Laguna Magdalena)... That was in November 1979. (I’d stashed my dollars in the soles of my shoes!) Things have changed a lot since then; it’s probably safer now (though who knows...) but most importantly, there’s now a drivable road connecting the two towns. In my opinion, tourists who go to San Agustín don’t venture far from the archaeological site. There are definitely treks to do in the area—just pick the right season and don’t go in November like I did, because it’s *super* humid! So many waterfalls! The forest is lush, and the birds—there’s no shortage of them!

Thanks for this info. Bernard

Thanks for the info! Bernard

Thanks for the info. Bernard

So I’d set this post aside for a bit, but I’ll continue with our week in Nuquí. We ended up staying in Pangui, the village after Nuquí (20 mins by lancha or a 1-hour walk from Playa Olímpica—you have to take a lancha from Nuquí, about 5 mins).

Playa Olímpica is really beautiful and clean, but it’s best enjoyed at low tide. At high tide, there’s almost no beach left. We stayed in a place everyone in Pangui calls “Chez Chacha.” It’s outside the village, and you have to cross a river to get to the village from the accommodation (on foot or by lancha, depending on the tide).

The place itself is great—rustic, right by the beach—for around ten euros per person per night. Two beds per room plus a bathroom, and a big covered terrace with a view of the garden and sea. It feels like home. You can also use the kitchen to cook for yourself or ask the owners to prepare meals for you (20,000–30,000 COP per meal).

Things to do nearby include, of course, the beach, and a waterfall worth checking out—count on a 3.5-hour round-trip hike, and go with a guide.

Playa Arenazul, about a 20-minute walk from Pangui (only accessible at low tide), is THE beach straight out of a movie set like *Jurassic Park* or *Pirates of the Caribbean*. For the trail, ask someone to point out the entrance, and be careful—part of it is easy, but the other section involves walking over rocks, and some spots can be slippery.

For groceries, there are 2–3 small shops in Pangui selling the basics, but otherwise, you’ll need to go to Nuquí. Still no ATMs in the area, but there’s a Western Union in Nuquí. We had rain almost every day (which is why we left), and you won’t escape the tiny sandflies.

For prices, the Nuquí <-> Pangui trip costs around 150,000 COP for a private lancha, or 15,000 COP if you take a "public lancha." If you’re just crossing from Nuquí to Playa Olímpica, it’s 5,000 COP.

The accommodations we saw in Nuquí were around 70,000–100,000 COP per person per night for the budget options. We also noticed that most flights are at least 30 minutes late. And to wrap up on Nuquí—if you’re booking from France, you won’t have any issues or need a VPN when using Aviatur.com.

So I was sorting through my photos this morning, so I’ll be adding more to this post.

We're heading to the Pacific coast, Chocó, the villages of Nuquí/Panguí.

Hats off to you, Monsieur Jacque! I'm 81 years old and you're making me dream.

Thanks :)