Original post
Bonjour
Nous sommes 3 cyclistes peu chevronnés et souhaiterions faire le tour du lac léman en 3 jous au mois de juin
Avez vous des idées d'itinéraires et de logement svp ?
Merci pour vos réponses
Bonnes balades à tous
Faire le tour du lac Léman en 3 jours à vélo
by Ac01
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Ci-dessous le carnet de route du tour du Léman que nous avons fait en 3 jours avec notre groupe. Il y a d'autres campings & auberges de jeunesse que ceux indiqués (Morges, Villeneuve, Montreux...). N'hésitez pas à demander.
Le mieux est de suivre la "Route du Rhône" Route 1 entièrement balisée côté Suisse. A Vevey il y a une variante par le vignoble du Lavaux: ça grimpe mais ça vaut le détour car la vue est à couper le souffle en haut.
TOUR DU LEMAN
DE GENEVE A GENEVE
via Versoix, Nyon, Morges, Lausanne, Vevey, Montreux, St-Gingolph, Evian-les-Bains, Thonon-les-Bains
par la Route du Rhône (Suisse) et les voies partagées (France)
3 jours/200 km
Nos en cas d’urgence : SUISSE : Police, appel d’urgence 117 / Secours routier 140 / Ambulances, appel d’urgence 144 / REGA : envoi d’un hélicoptère en cas d’urgence 1414 / FRANCE : 15 ou 112
Guide Route du Rhône (Suisse)
J moins 1 Genève
Visite de Genève, pont du Mont blanc, centre historique, jet d’eau, croisière sur le lac. Genève -Auberge Geneva Hostel : 28-30 rue Rotschild / + 41 22 732 62 60 -TCS Camping Genève-Vésenaz : ch. de la Bise à Vésenaz / +41 (0) 22 752 12 96
J1 Genève / Lausanne
Itinéraire : Genève, départ de la rando sur la Promenade du lac à l’Horloge fleurie (Jardin anglais près du Pont du Mont Blanc). Suivre toute la journée l’itinéraire balisé Route du Rhône 1. Pour sortir de Genève emprunter la piste cyclable qui longe le quai du Mont Blanc, le quai Wilson, l’avenue de France, jusqu’au carrefour François Forestier. Au carrefour tourner à droite rue de Lausanne et suivre Route du Rhône jusqu’à Bellevue, Versoix, Copet, Founex, Céligny, Nyon. A Nyon, direction Prangins, Gland, Rolle, St-Prex, Morges, Lausanne. A Lausanne suivre la route de Vidy jusqu’au rond-point (près du CIO et du camping), puis tourner à gauche chemin du Bois de Vaux, passer sous l’autoroute, l’auberge de jeunesse se trouve 36 ch. du Bois-de-Vaux. Lausanne Auberge de jeunesse : 36 ch. du Bois de Vaux /. +41 (0)21 626 02 22.
J2 Lausanne – Evian-les-Bains
Itinéraire : Lausanne, continuer sur la Route 1 une partie de la journée par Rivaz, St-Saphorin, Lavaux, Vevey. Au niveau de Vevey on a le choix de continuer sur la route au bord du lac (c’est assez plat) ou de monter par le vignoble du Lavaux (ça grimpe mais le panorama est exceptionnel !). Ensuite, on arrive à Montreux. A Montreux, direction Château de Chillon, Villeneuve (Route1). Après Villeneuve passer le canal ch. des Gleyriers et la passerelle sur le Rhône. Là nous quittons la Route 1 pour un itinéraire non balisé, en direction du Bouveret. Par la route du Tonkin passer près du Port et la gare du Bouveret. Au Bouveret suivre la route jusqu’à St-Gingolph et la France. Ce tronçon sur la départementale impose la prudence ! A Touronde tourner à gauche et monter à Lugrin puis Maxilly, et basculer en direction d‘Evian. A Evian suivre l’avenue du Léman, puis au rond-point l’avenue de Neuvecelle jusqu’au centre international de séjour (CIS) Ethic-étapes. Evian-les-Bains Ethic étapes : 531 av. de Neuvecelle / 04 50 75 35 87.
J3 Evian / Genève
Itinéraire : Evian, à la sortie de la ville monter en direction de Publier par Bissinge (côte de 2 km à 4 %). A Publier continuer et redescendre vers Vongy (passer le pont sur la Drance), le Château de Ripailles, Rives et les bords du lac, Thonon-les-Bains. A Thonon, suivre Corzent, Anthy, Port de Sechex, le bord du lac, Sciez plage, Domaine de Coudrée (barrière entrée) passage privé, toléré, donc discrétion. Passer devant l‘hôtel 5 étoiles, filer tout droit jusqu’au bout ou presque, 100 m avant la fin : sortir du domaine, à gauche, par un petit passage et une barrière assez difficile. Chemin de Poudou non goudronné à pieds sur 250 m, La Fattaz, Excenevex, Yvoire. A Yvoire, direction Nernier (qui mérite une visite au bord du lac, plus tranquille et moins Kitsh que Yvoire). A Nernier village : suivre le C1 vers Chens-sur-Léman, et Hermance en Suisse (frontière). Depuis Hermance, suivre la route vers Anières, Corsier et Vésenaz et puis la bande cyclable le long du lac jusqu’à Genève.
RD - 2013
TOUR DU LEMAN
DE GENEVE A GENEVE
via Versoix, Nyon, Morges, Lausanne, Vevey, Montreux, St-Gingolph, Evian-les-Bains, Thonon-les-Bains
par la Route du Rhône (Suisse) et les voies partagées (France)
3 jours/200 km
Nos en cas d’urgence : SUISSE : Police, appel d’urgence 117 / Secours routier 140 / Ambulances, appel d’urgence 144 / REGA : envoi d’un hélicoptère en cas d’urgence 1414 / FRANCE : 15 ou 112
Guide Route du Rhône (Suisse)
J moins 1 Genève
Visite de Genève, pont du Mont blanc, centre historique, jet d’eau, croisière sur le lac. Genève -Auberge Geneva Hostel : 28-30 rue Rotschild / + 41 22 732 62 60 -TCS Camping Genève-Vésenaz : ch. de la Bise à Vésenaz / +41 (0) 22 752 12 96
J1 Genève / Lausanne
Itinéraire : Genève, départ de la rando sur la Promenade du lac à l’Horloge fleurie (Jardin anglais près du Pont du Mont Blanc). Suivre toute la journée l’itinéraire balisé Route du Rhône 1. Pour sortir de Genève emprunter la piste cyclable qui longe le quai du Mont Blanc, le quai Wilson, l’avenue de France, jusqu’au carrefour François Forestier. Au carrefour tourner à droite rue de Lausanne et suivre Route du Rhône jusqu’à Bellevue, Versoix, Copet, Founex, Céligny, Nyon. A Nyon, direction Prangins, Gland, Rolle, St-Prex, Morges, Lausanne. A Lausanne suivre la route de Vidy jusqu’au rond-point (près du CIO et du camping), puis tourner à gauche chemin du Bois de Vaux, passer sous l’autoroute, l’auberge de jeunesse se trouve 36 ch. du Bois-de-Vaux. Lausanne Auberge de jeunesse : 36 ch. du Bois de Vaux /. +41 (0)21 626 02 22.
J2 Lausanne – Evian-les-Bains
Itinéraire : Lausanne, continuer sur la Route 1 une partie de la journée par Rivaz, St-Saphorin, Lavaux, Vevey. Au niveau de Vevey on a le choix de continuer sur la route au bord du lac (c’est assez plat) ou de monter par le vignoble du Lavaux (ça grimpe mais le panorama est exceptionnel !). Ensuite, on arrive à Montreux. A Montreux, direction Château de Chillon, Villeneuve (Route1). Après Villeneuve passer le canal ch. des Gleyriers et la passerelle sur le Rhône. Là nous quittons la Route 1 pour un itinéraire non balisé, en direction du Bouveret. Par la route du Tonkin passer près du Port et la gare du Bouveret. Au Bouveret suivre la route jusqu’à St-Gingolph et la France. Ce tronçon sur la départementale impose la prudence ! A Touronde tourner à gauche et monter à Lugrin puis Maxilly, et basculer en direction d‘Evian. A Evian suivre l’avenue du Léman, puis au rond-point l’avenue de Neuvecelle jusqu’au centre international de séjour (CIS) Ethic-étapes. Evian-les-Bains Ethic étapes : 531 av. de Neuvecelle / 04 50 75 35 87.
J3 Evian / Genève
Itinéraire : Evian, à la sortie de la ville monter en direction de Publier par Bissinge (côte de 2 km à 4 %). A Publier continuer et redescendre vers Vongy (passer le pont sur la Drance), le Château de Ripailles, Rives et les bords du lac, Thonon-les-Bains. A Thonon, suivre Corzent, Anthy, Port de Sechex, le bord du lac, Sciez plage, Domaine de Coudrée (barrière entrée) passage privé, toléré, donc discrétion. Passer devant l‘hôtel 5 étoiles, filer tout droit jusqu’au bout ou presque, 100 m avant la fin : sortir du domaine, à gauche, par un petit passage et une barrière assez difficile. Chemin de Poudou non goudronné à pieds sur 250 m, La Fattaz, Excenevex, Yvoire. A Yvoire, direction Nernier (qui mérite une visite au bord du lac, plus tranquille et moins Kitsh que Yvoire). A Nernier village : suivre le C1 vers Chens-sur-Léman, et Hermance en Suisse (frontière). Depuis Hermance, suivre la route vers Anières, Corsier et Vésenaz et puis la bande cyclable le long du lac jusqu’à Genève.
RD - 2013
Avez vous des idées d'itinéraires et de logement svp?
pas de suggestions précises, car les 2 fois où j'ai fait le tour du Léman, j'avais roulé comme un bourrin avec 2 copains, vu qu'on s'était fixé comme objectif de faire le tour en 1 journée. Mais je plussoie pour le petit détour par les vignobles avant Vevey, très belle vue. Et je conseillerais de faire le tour de préférence dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, pour être côté lac de la route là où il n'y a pas de voie cyclable (en particulier entre St Gingolph et Evian)
pas de suggestions précises, car les 2 fois où j'ai fait le tour du Léman, j'avais roulé comme un bourrin avec 2 copains, vu qu'on s'était fixé comme objectif de faire le tour en 1 journée. Mais je plussoie pour le petit détour par les vignobles avant Vevey, très belle vue. Et je conseillerais de faire le tour de préférence dans le sens des aiguilles d'une montre, pour être côté lac de la route là où il n'y a pas de voie cyclable (en particulier entre St Gingolph et Evian)
DURANT 13 ans claudio proposa le tour du Léman en tant que randonnée dite permanente de la tefecete
depuis il a arrêté
et filé le bébé aux cyclos de Thonon
le parcours est à présent bien balisé suisse à vélo N46
mais on peut varier ..
ya de nb campings en suisse et en france
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/ http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/recits-internautes/index.php http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/recits-internautes/trois-filles/index.php
https://www.cyclos-thonon.fr/tour-du-leman-cyclo/
https://www.schweizmobil.ch/fr/suisse-a-velo/itineraires/route-046.html et surtout ne pas oublier de demande au cpam la carte européenne de soins sinon un simple passage aux urgence en suisse c'est 600 euros ! sans compté l'ambulance (du vécu) claudio .. de la faverges
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/ http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/recits-internautes/index.php http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/leman/recits-internautes/trois-filles/index.php
https://www.cyclos-thonon.fr/tour-du-leman-cyclo/
https://www.schweizmobil.ch/fr/suisse-a-velo/itineraires/route-046.html et surtout ne pas oublier de demande au cpam la carte européenne de soins sinon un simple passage aux urgence en suisse c'est 600 euros ! sans compté l'ambulance (du vécu) claudio .. de la faverges
Claudio de la Faverges.
Bonjour amis cyclotouristes, claude passionné de voyages à vélo favergien et défenseur du cycliste.
plus la carte bleue est foncée et plus le bagage est léger
en anglais "the more the card is blu the less the luggage is heavy"
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hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio
the trip was completed story being posted online soon 1100 km in 11 days beautiful and varied regions
claudio
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Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Thanks for your help! Have a great day, Alexandre
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
hey everyone,
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
Thanks in advance, Jérôme
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
A shout-out to a cycling colleague from Savoie
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php
The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes Here are his travels Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place Rural and quite peaceful A road cycling route created by Serge B...
N+1 reconnaissance trips on a loop of about 400 km This way, he avoids the SNCF and its troubles http://cbandiera.free.fr/vv/lacs-savoie/recos.php
The latest reconnaissance trip from April to May 2026 http://cbandiera.free.fr/recits/2026-grenoble-H/index.php
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
Hi everyone,
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025. It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border. We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
You’ve been warned.
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
Hi there,
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure! Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
Hi there,
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Coming from Laos (*), I’m planning to enter Thailand by bike via the Fourth Thai–Lao Friendship Bridge.
Before this bridge was built, I’d already cycled the road from Louang Namtha to Houei Sai and crossed the river by boat to reach Thailand.
At the time, the condition of that road was impeccable, and most importantly, traffic was light.
So I’m wondering if anyone who’s taken it recently can tell me whether traffic has increased since the bridge opened.
Thanks in advance!
(*) I’m currently cycling in China (Yunnan)
Hi there,
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉
Just a few words about the loop I did by bike in Yunnan.
Entry and exit
I entered China through the Sino-Vietnamese border crossing at Lào Cai / Hekou under the 30-day visa exemption currently available to French nationals and others.
The process was simple and quick. A Chinese police officer even helped me complete my electronic pre-registration at a computer kiosk. I wasn’t aware this formality was required—it’s similar to Thailand’s TM6.
No issues with the bike.
I left the country via the Sino-Laotian border crossing at Mohan / Boten.
The atmosphere was a bit chaotic there, but again, no problems with the bike.
The timing
I visited Yunnan in February 2026.
Weather-wise, at higher altitudes (between 1,500 and 2,000 meters), it was around ten degrees at night and in the mornings, and around twenty degrees at the hottest part of the day.
I had two days of rain, so I took the bus to keep moving. Otherwise, clear blue skies.
Culturally, Chinese New Year fell on February 17th (and the 15 days following), right in the middle of my trip. Because of this, my take on the traffic might be off.
Accommodation and food I always found a hotel to stay in for prices ranging from 8 to 15 €. Except in Kunming (the capital), where many hotels were fully booked (Chinese New Year). I ended up at a 100 € hotel with great value for money.
A bowl of noodles costs about 1.5 € on average.
Onboard electronics Since my smartphone doesn’t support eSIMs, I subscribed to a China plan with my carrier. Otherwise, for much cheaper, Alipay offers eSIMs for foreigners that allow access to services usually blocked for Chinese users (WhatsApp, Facebook, etc.).
An internet connection is essential for paying with Alipay or WeChat, as this payment method is widespread.
I only managed to use Alipay.
Either way, always carry cash because sometimes there’s no signal, or the merchant only accepts WeChat.
Also, it’s best to bring a power adapter when you arrive rather than struggling to find one.
Traffic and roads The Chinese aren’t reckless drivers. They follow traffic rules and watch out for cyclists. This is slightly less true in Xishuangbanna (the region bordering Myanmar and Laos).
In urban areas, there are almost always wide bike lanes, separated from other roads, where bikes, electric mini-scooters, and scooters share the space pretty harmoniously.
The roads are in great condition, and traffic is generally manageable—even light—except for one stretch (Eshan -> Yangwu).
Most traffic is absorbed by expressways, China’s equivalent of highways: toll roads that are off-limits to slow vehicles.
You’re never far from these expressways; sometimes you even ride alongside them, which can be noisy at times.
The climbs are usually reasonable, around 5% to 6%. From what I remember, the steepest section was between Menglun and Mengla, with gradients of 8% to 10%, sometimes more.
Riding at these altitudes—though modest—took a bit of getting used to.
The route I didn’t plan anything in advance. My only goal was to reach Kunming. I don’t know why, but just hearing the name of that city, like Yunnan, always felt dreamy to me.
Here’s the breakdown: Hekou -> Man Hao (94 km); Man Hao -> Yuanyang (64 km); Yuanyang -> Jianshui (bus); Jianshui -> Tong Hai (78 km); Tong Hai -> Chenjiang (85 km); Chenjiang -> Kunming (60 km); Kunming -> Kunyang (60 km); Kunyang -> Eshan (67 km); Eshan -> Yangwu (58 km); Yangwu -> Yuanjiang (59 km); Yuanjiang -> Pu'er (bus); Pu'er -> Dadugang (75 km); Dadugang -> Jinghong (80 km); Jinghong -> Menglun (67 km); Menglun -> Mengyuancun (51 km); Mengyuancun -> Mengla (43 km); Mengla -> Boten (67 km).
Otherwise, I’m currently in Thailand and just hoping my return flight with Qatar won’t get canceled.
Oh well... 😉