Low-travel suspension fork for a touring bike
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
PI
Hi there,

I’m planning to build a new touring bike. I want to prioritize lightness. That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads. The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper. I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork. Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm. It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.

Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?

I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring. And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear. More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?

Thanks in advance
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
It seems to me there are also systems based on a shock-absorbing plastic block placed on the fork axle.
WE Wegg Veteran ·
Hi there,

In the past, I had two Cannondale bikes equipped with a suspension system in the head tube: Adventure (my avatar) and Touring Ultra. I was initially won over by the concept and the benefits it was supposed to offer. However, in practice, I wasn’t convinced.

As a result, I think it’s better to fit wider tires if you need to ride on rough roads—or even use a stem with a suspension system.

Nowadays, I’m focusing on overall weight reduction to tackle positive elevation gains more comfortably, so I’ve opted for wider, more flexible tires and placed gel inserts under my handlebar tape to absorb vibrations.

I seem to recall that telescopic forks made a brief appearance a few years ago in Paris-Roubaix.
[...] rien n'étant jamais parfait, rien n'est jamais parfaitement désespéré [...]

Nulle part, mais en Irlande. Franz Bartelt
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
Okay, for roads that aren't too rough, wide tires >= 42 mm are the way to go in my experience. Especially since they can handle lower pressure—real air cushions.
PI Pierlu Regular ·
Today, I’m on a mission to lighten my load overall so I can tackle positive elevation changes more smoothly, and I’ve gone for wider, more flexible tires and added gel inserts under my handlebar tape to absorb vibrations.

Absolutely, handlebar tape with gel and large-section tires (which therefore require lower inflation pressure) help absorb road imperfections. But my question about the usefulness of a suspension fork concerns roads that are pretty degraded, like the ones I encountered last March in northern Laos. To illustrate, here are three photos of national roads 13 N and 7, a good portion of which are in poor condition:





WE Wegg Veteran ·
True, for riding days on end on this kind of surface, a telescopic fork can seem like a good solution for improving comfort.

Personally, I always prefer simplicity over technology. It’d be worth checking the literature to see if there are any user experiences or detailed comparative tests that highlight the pros and cons of a telescopic fork.
[...] rien n'étant jamais parfait, rien n'est jamais parfaitement désespéré [...]

Nulle part, mais en Irlande. Franz Bartelt
NO Nomade743 Veteran ·
Hi Pierre, Having done a lot of mountain biking over the years, I’ve had full-suspension bikes. For comfort, they’re ideal, but they require regular and fairly technical maintenance. For a bike trip lasting a few weeks, a fork like the one you mentioned could be a good choice. However, if the plan is a much longer trip through regions where bike shops are rare, I’d be more cautious. Nowadays, I’ve opted for a gravel bike for traveling—it takes tires up to 50 mm, which, when set up tubeless, offers excellent comfort. I think it’s the best comfort-performance compromise.
SM Smopy44 Regular ·
Hi there,

If maintaining a telescopic fork seems too much of a hassle—or even risky—for a long trip, you should know there are maintenance-free alternatives, like the famous Lauf Grit fork. Paired with a suspended seatpost and a gel saddle, you’ll feel like you’re riding on a cloud. Before going for the Lauf Grit, make sure the fork can be fitted to your frame. As for the suspended seatpost, ensure its setback and height are properly adjusted relative to the stem, so you don’t end up in the overly aggressive position of a pro cyclist.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mgfTEI-0f1c&t=2s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kq-77RuklwA

P.S.: If you have time, I’d really appreciate it if you could come tell us about the bike you’ve built.
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
For me, the winning combo is a suspension seatpost and tires at least 40 mm wide. With that, you're riding on a cushion. Plus, you protect your spine, which isn't made to absorb shocks.

Tires wider than 40 mm can be inflated to 4.5 bar. They aren't hard, so they stay comfortable.
NO Nomade743 Veteran ·
For me, the winning combo is a seatpost shock absorber and tires at least 40 mm wide. With that, you're riding on a cushion. Plus, it protects your spine, which isn't made to absorb shocks.

Tires over 40 mm can be inflated to 4.5 bar. They're not hard, so they're comfortable.

Whoa!!! 4.5 bar is huge. 3 bar is the max for 40 mm tires, or even 2.5 if you're running tubeless.

For comfort, the best is to fit the widest tires your bike can take. These days, you can find gravel bikes that take 54 mm tires, inflated to around 2 bar—the comfort is amazing, and contrary to popular belief, the efficiency isn't any worse than with skinny tires.
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
It depends on the tire.

My tire can handle 3-6 bar.
NO Nomade743 Veteran ·
It depends on the tire.

My tire can handle 3-6 bar

What model is it? Just because a tire can handle a certain pressure doesn’t mean you should always inflate it to the max. Back in the day, people thought tires needed to be as hard as possible for maximum efficiency, but recent studies have shown that overinflated tires increase vibrations and "bounce" on the road. Basically, an overinflated tire reduces efficiency, grip, and comfort.

Even the pros have caught on—within just a few years, they’ve gone from 23mm to 30 or even 32mm tires in races, using tubeless setups with significantly lower pressures. Of course, we’re not in the same context, and our needs are different, but anything that improves my bike’s efficiency helps me fatigue less on the road.
SM Smopy44 Regular ·
For my part, I swapped the Marathon Mondial tires for Marathon Supreme ones inflated to 3.5 bars, and I traded the SMP saddle for this one. Even today, I'm still amazed by the comfort of this saddle given its price! https://www.amazon.fr/dp/B0CLVSPF8R?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
PI Pierlu Regular ·
Hello,

Thanks to everyone for your feedback.

As I mentioned in a previous post, wide tires (which therefore require low inflation pressure) weren’t enough to handle the roads I shared photos of.

For reference, I had Marathon Mondial tires that were 2 inches (5 cm) wide, with a recommended pressure of around 2.5 to 5 bars, if I remember correctly.

The issue is that the load a tire can support decreases as the pressure drops.

For example, the Marathon Mondial can handle a maximum load of 130 kg, but only at maximum pressure (according to the manufacturer’s data).

So, riding with a fully loaded bike at minimum pressure isn’t recommended.

To improve comfort, another option is to switch to tubeless soft tires. But that’s not suitable for the kind of travel I do.

I have a gravel bike set up tubeless, so I’m speaking from experience.

These tires are more fragile.

Plus, sealant only works for very small punctures. If the hole in the tire is too big, repairs—like using a plug—usually don’t last. Eventually, you’ll need to replace the tire entirely, which means carrying one or even two spare tires and a bottle of sealant for trips to remote areas.

That leaves my question about the durability and reliability of a telescopic fork...

PS: I’m ruling out the Lauf Grit fork because it’s carbon. I’m also excluding a suspended seatpost because my issue is bike stability and hand pain, not discomfort in the saddle.
SM Smopy44 Regular ·
hi,

I asked your question to two AIs, here are their responses:

https://gemini.google.com/app/b4ea8adf8de2a2fe

https://grok.com/c/ccc0edc1-b88b-4829-863a-c8a8fde2b908?rid=2471845f-7e8b-4e2d-aa32-bd4dd1919e70

Since both AIs had mixed conclusions about the reliability of your fork for a long-term trip on rough terrain, I asked this question:

Is the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork made for a round-the-world trip on rough terrain? Here’s its response: https://gemini.google.com/app/9e62a0bfe00b20dd
SM Smopy44 Regular ·
PS: I’m ruling out the Lauf Grit fork because it’s carbon. I’m also ruling out a suspended seatpost because my issue is bike stability and hand pain, not my backside.

For hand pain, there’s the suspended stem (like the Redshift ShockStop)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D7yQPrBPyQ

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/nTpx_iP_6Ls
NO Nomade743 Veteran ·
Hello,

Thanks to everyone for your feedback.

As I’ve already mentioned in a previous post, wide tires (which therefore require low inflation pressure) weren’t enough to handle the roads I shared photos of.

For info, I had Marathon Mondial tires that were 2 inches (5 cm) wide, with an allowable pressure of—if I remember correctly—between 2.5 and 5 bars.

The issue is that the load a tire can support decreases as the pressure drops.

So, the Marathon Mondial can handle a maximum load of 130 kg, but only at maximum pressure (manufacturer’s data).

Therefore, riding at minimum pressure with a loaded bike isn’t recommended.

To improve comfort, the other solution is to switch to tubeless soft tires. But that’s not suited to the kind of travel I do.

I have a gravel bike set up tubeless, so I’m speaking from experience.

These tires are more fragile.

Plus, sealant only works for very small punctures. As soon as the hole in the tire is a bit too big, repairs—like using a plug—usually don’t hold up over time. Eventually, you have to replace the tire entirely, which means carrying one or even two spare tires and a bottle of sealant for traveling in remote areas.

That leaves my question about the durability and reliability of a telescopic fork...

PS: I’m ruling out the Lauf Grit fork because it’s carbon. I’m also ruling out a suspended seatpost because my issue is bike stability and hand pain, not my backside.

I just got back (last night) from crossing the Massif Central from Avallon to the Mediterranean via a gravel route. For those interested: https://www.la-gtmc.com/itineraire/grande-traversee-du-massif-central-gravel 1,400 km of rough tracks and trails, all on a gravel bike with 45mm tubeless tires inflated to 2 bars. Schwalbe G-One tires still far from worn out by the end. Zero punctures. I’d planned two inner tubes just in case of a major puncture, since plugging tires on the road isn’t easy. I’ll add that I was camping, so my carbon Canyon was still a bit loaded.

Excellent bike comfort and zero issues. All this to say you can travel light and comfortably.
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
Here’s a link to a video by a long-distance hiker. 9 years of hiking across all continents.

https://youtu.be/cfZWpoZJXus?si=4yGxtZRD_5_3OfcX

He introduces his new bike: - Rigid front fork - Redshift Shockstop Pro suspension seatpost - Vecnum Freeqence suspension stem - Schwalbe G-One RX Pro 60-622 tires

Hope this gives you some ideas.

happy planning
NO Nomade743 Veteran ·
Hand or butt pain isn’t dependent on having a suspension system but on the quality of the saddle, its shape, and its width (all tailored to the cyclist’s body shape). The same goes for hand pressure on the handlebars—its shape, padding, and, of course, how well it fits your body. Many travelers don’t cycle much, if at all, year-round and then set off on a trip with 6 hours in the saddle daily. How can anyone be surprised by aches and pains?

Let’s be clear: if you’re not perfectly positioned on a bike that’s properly adjusted for your body, no amount of suspension will make a difference.
VF Vfpromeneur Veteran ·
I didn’t say the seatpost suspension was there to counter butt pain. First and foremost, it’s to absorb a rear shock and protect your spine. Because a jolt to your backside travels up your spine all the way to your head. With a suspension post, you’re setting yourself up for a peaceful old age.

Otherwise, I completely agree about butt pain—you’ve got to find the saddle that fits your backside, meaning one that’s the right size, like a shoe. It’s not an easy task. I tried several before I found the right one.

On another note, as I’ve often mentioned in my posts, the first season—even the second—you’ll ache in different parts of your body. That’s normal. What we’re asking our bodies to do isn’t natural. Humans weren’t designed by nature for cycling. So don’t rush to find some miracle gear. What you can do right away is adjust your posture.

Otherwise, just wait for the pain to fade. If a pain lingers past the first season, then yes, look for different gear.

Personally, by the second season, everything had disappeared (neck pain, shoulder blade pain, stiff thumb) except for the recurring butt pain. In desperation, I finally tried the one saddle I hadn’t tested—a racing saddle with no padding, no cutout in the middle, and super rigid. Miracle—it was the right one. There was just a tiny bit of pain now and then. That’s when I came across a deal on a Brooks B17 for 80 €. You hear so much about them. For fun, I bought one, and as soon as I sat on it, I knew it was THE saddle—even though a new leather saddle is stiff and hard. Is it because it’s a Brooks? Because it’s leather? I don’t buy that for a second. It was simply the right size.
SM Smopy44 Regular ·
Really nice bike, great choice of components. With the Rohloff hub (automatic), you don’t have to shift gears anymore, and you can stay on the aero bars as long as you want. I’m almost a little jealous.

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