I’m planning a two-week trip to Iran in September and I’m reaching out for some valuable tips....
After doing a bit of research, I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary.
I plan to spend 2–3 days in Tehran, then head down to Isfahan for 4–5 days with an overnight stop in Kashan. After that, I’m thinking of going to Shiraz for 2–3 days, including a visit to Persepolis.
Then back to Tehran with a 2-day stop in Yazd.
What do you think? Is this doable? Are there any other must-see spots?
The north, with Tabriz and Masuleh, also caught my eye, but what should I cut to fit them in?
If you have any recommendations for high-quality, authentic hotels, I’d love to hear them.
And one last (silly) question—I’m a smoker (unfortunately!), so is it allowed for women to smoke in Iran? If so, under what conditions?
Thanks in advance for your help, and I’m all ears for any advice!
For two weeks, your itinerary seems doable.
Travel times can be long, so domestic flights stand out: they're super cheap and so much faster.
That could let you see Tabriz, which is worth it, and maybe skip Kashan. Masuleh is nice—one night there is plenty. The surrounding countryside is amazing, and Gilan Province is really unique.
Tehran might be shocking at first glance: the traffic is intense, and it doesn’t seem charming... Maybe save it for the end? But don’t miss the bazaar—it’s perfect for shopping and gifts.
A quick note on prices: I was struck by the inflation in August 2012. The IRR lost a lot of value. For us Europeans, that means travel is becoming more affordable, but unfortunately for Iranians, the cost of living is skyrocketing.
Fuel is still subsidized and very cheap—about 10 cents per liter, if I remember right.
For getting around: 1. plane, 2. bus (VIP is great), 3. shared taxi for short distances.
For accommodation, expect around 15–20 € for a decent single room.
I’ll try to dig up some good addresses to share! 🙂
Thanks Greaz for your reply and this info.
Do you happen to have any benchmark prices to share, like the cost of a bottle of water, a taxi, or a simple meal?
Thanks in advance for the tips! 🙂
In August 2012, 1 € = 25/26,000 IRR
(1,000 IRR = 1k)
Taxi ride: 30/50k
Sandwich/drink: 50k
Meal: 100/150k
Bottle of water: 5/10k
1kg of amazing pistachios ;) 300k
By plane:
Tehran - Isfahan: 580k - 23 €
Tehran - Tabriz: 620k - 24 €
3/4h prep / 1h flight
Tehran - Isfahan by VIP bus: 140k - 6 € - 6h drive
In Tehran:
Night taxi IKA - city center: $20
Khayyam Hotel: $20 for a single
hotelkhayyam@hotmail.com
In Isfahan:
Hotel Jolfa: $18 for a single
Buffet dinner: 150k
Dodgy but tasty restaurant in the basement, stairs just before the hotel entrance.
Burger/Coke at Abbassi Hotel: 100k
Make sure to visit the Fire Temple, Chehel Sotun, Vank Cathedral, and the nearby churches.
In Qazvin: Alborz Hotel
Visit Alamut (Ghazor Khan) by taxi: 900k
In Tabriz:
Azerbaijan Hotel, Gostareh Hotel
Visit Nasser Khan, manager of the tourism office
Nasser speaks 7 languages and knows all the best tips
The office moved to the left alley, still at the entrance of the bazaar.
555 2714
09 141 160 149
Oh yeah, for massage fans, in Tabriz ask Nasser to point you to a hammam.
The place is rustic, and so is the massage 😛
Around Tabriz, it's worth checking out the churches. Some are far, but the roads are gorgeous. Kandovan is cool too.
Near Isfahan, spend a relaxed day in Abyaneh.
BTW, Ramadan starts on July 9th this year, I think.
Tehran 2 days
Kashan 2 days with a trip to the surrounding villages
Isfahan 4 days
Yazd 3 days: I’d love to spend a night in the desert—any info on that? What about Ateshooni?
Shiraz 2 days
Flight back to Tehran
And including Tabriz:
Day 1: Arrival in Tehran and immediate departure west with an overnight in Masouleh
Tabriz 3 days: Any ideas for excursions there?
Flight to Shiraz: 2 days there
Yazd 2 days
Isfahan 3 days
Kashan: 1 day
Tehran: 2 days
What do you think of these two routes? Which one do you think is the most doable and, more importantly, the most interesting for a first trip to Iran?
For the west, I’m open to any advice on the route because I’m not sure how to plan it...
I’d go for option 2, skipping Kashan to add an extra day in Yazd.
One tweak: from Tehran, take a flight to Tabriz, then head down by bus or taxi to Masuleh and then Qazvin. From there, fly to Shiraz.
In Tabriz, Nasser Khan can point you to all the possible excursions in the area. For example, 1 day in the old city and bazaar, 1 day in Kandovan, 1 day at the border and the Armenian churches...
If you have to choose, Tabriz is better than Kashan 😉
As for Shiraz, it's a must-visit for Persepolis! And the old city is definitely worth spending a day or two in, in my opinion.
Personally, I preferred Kashan to Tabriz. There are some beautiful Qajar-era houses, and Fin Garden is stunning.
It’s a great stop before discovering the wonders of Isfahan.
Shiraz is a must-see for me, but that’s just my opinion.
+1 for Kashan. In my opinion, the best interest-to-travel-time ratio.
Gorgeous Qajar houses in Kashan, absolutely unmatched by those in Tabriz. Not to mention the charming Bagh-e Fin.
Now, if you want to get lost in a bazaar, Tabriz is hard to beat. There’s also an interesting archaeological museum in Tabriz. Nearby, the Blue Mosque is a bit frustrating since only remnants of the decoration remain. History buffs will appreciate the Constitutional House. Don’t miss the Carpet Museum at the Town Hall (called "Salle Municipale" in the Lonely Planet—a cringe-worthy translation of "Town Hall"). With a little extra time, you can visit the Armenian monasteries of Kara Kelisa (St. Thaddeus) and St. Stephanos (near Jolfa) in the province.
Aesthetically speaking, I’d recommend Ardabil for its stunning Sufi shrine of Safi-od-Din, ancestor of the Safavids. But it’s best visited as part of a loop starting along the Caspian Sea.
URGENT MESSAGE -> LEAVING TOMORROW!! Hi!
My visa application was refused yesterday at Esender/Serû: Turkey/Iran land border. On top of being frustrating, I traveled 1200 km in 2 days and spent quite a bit of cash. (That said, the landscapes are breathtaking and I discovered the Kurdish people—so generous and endearing!!) I have to turn back toward Istanbul to try for a VOA at Tehran Airport.
I don’t have any return ticket (I want to make a trip and head back to the UAE in the south via Qeshm Island). I haven’t filled out any formalities beforehand. Just a French passport and the address of an Iranian friend there. Under these conditions, will it be possible to get the visa on arrival??
Thanks for your reply!!
Nora
Note that since the June elections, the rules for issuing Iranian visas have changed.
According to Iran Air, the Visa On Arrival is now only granted to travelers with a Round-Trip flight ticket.
No VOA with a one-way ticket, then. Info to be confirmed...
Have a great trip, keep us posted!
Thanks for your quick reply. After thinking it over, I’ll book a round-trip flight if someone can confirm I can get the VOA once I’m in Tehran. Is there really no paperwork to fill out—no fingerprint at the embassy, no insurance, etc.?
I’m worried they’ll deny my visa and my return ticket will slip away :((
Are travel agencies or airlines easy to find? Do you know any reliable ones?
I arrived at IKA in August 2012 for a two-week stay.
Arrived around midnight, half an hour and 50 € later, visa approved.
Cash payment only.
They asked for a hotel reservation confirmation—I had one for the first night (hotelkhayyam at hotmail.com) and mentioned I’d be traveling around the country as a tourist afterward. I think they called the hotel to verify.
Just a feeling: maybe the "sleeping at someone’s place" plan isn’t ideal for these procedures...
Otherwise, Iran Air is great.
The manager at Hotel Khayyam is friendly and efficient if you need anything ;)
Don’t hesitate to ask any questions!
Happy travels
Which currency is best to use in Iran: Dollar, Euro, or Rial? I'm in Turkey—should I exchange my Liras at Istanbul Airport, or where else can I do it? Is it possible at Tehran Airport? Where’s the best exchange rate?
In Iran, it's better to pay in Iranian Rials ;)
You can exchange foreign currency everywhere.
Generally, I exchange a small amount upon arrival at the airport—enough for one day.
Then I exchange the rest gradually on the black market. No risks as far as I know; it's a common practice. Plus, it's much more advantageous—almost double the rate! Exchange rates can change significantly in just a few days.
I’d recommend saving Tehran for last. If your trip is short and you need to cut cities from your route, drop Tehran. You’ll always come back to Iran! And if you really want to see Tehran, explore the North rather than the South. Finally, let the Lonely Planet guide you!
We visited the northern/northeast part of Oman, the most touristy area, last February over 11 days there. It’s a great time to go because the temperatures are pleasant and there aren’t too many tourists, even though the country is only just starting to develop its image. 11 days was enough for us to see the essentials, but you can always extend your stay depending on what you want.
2 days in Muscat, 2 days in the desert—we would’ve happily stayed longer—2 days in the mountains, 3 days in the wadis, and the rest for the cities, villages, and the coast.
Oman offers stunning landscapes and a genuinely warm welcome. We always felt safe, never experienced any malicious looks or gestures.
As usual for our trips, we chose to organize everything ourselves but with a guide to better explore and soak up the local culture.
The point of my post isn’t to recount our journey but to encourage and reassure anyone considering this destination.
If I can be of help, I’m happy to answer your questions based on what I know.
Hello, we’re two senior couples who often travel with a guide and driver. For this trip to Oman, though, we’d like (for various reasons) to have a fixed base and visit the must-sees with a local guide but on a hub-and-spoke basis. Do you think that’s possible, and what would be the best place to stay?
We’ll be in Oman for 7 days in March 2026.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Hi there,
This year we want to go to Georgia. We have a ticket to Istanbul and would prefer to avoid an Istanbul/Tbilisi flight to see a bit of Turkey, which I love.
I found a train from Ankara to Kars (25h): why not?
But how do we cross the border: which town? Is it easy (or not)?
I’m leaning toward Batumi, but I’m not sure about anything—thanks for your tips!
Thanks for your insights
hi,
do we absolutely have to get the ETA before traveling to Israel these days?
some people say it’s not mandatory, others say it is.
any feedback, please?
thanks
Hey everyone!
A comeback after so many years... but my question is simple:
"Has anyone wandered around these two countries recently? (The posts and travel journals I’ve read are a bit dated.) I’m planning a trip for late spring—one I had mapped out for 2023 but never got to do.
For any info on transportation, border crossings, cost of living, and interesting hostel/GH addresses, thanks in advance! 😉
Hi,
We’ve got flight tickets for a two-week trip to Georgia from April 8th to 23rd.
Should we go ahead with our trip or postpone it to September, given what’s been happening in the Persian Gulf since late February 2026?
Are there any impacts in Georgia?
Thanks for your help
Hi there, I’d like to spend a few days in these two countries. How many days do you recommend? Any ideas for things to see? Which airline should I take to go from one to the other? I think there are no more direct flights? Thanks
Hi,
We’re heading to Asia this summer, and to avoid arriving in the middle of the night, we’ve decided to stop over in Dubai for a day and a half on the way there and back. Any ideas for activities during this super-hot period? Bonus points if they’re reasonably priced 🙂 Which neighborhood is best to stay in?
Thanks in advance, and have a great day!
Bruno
Living in Amman, Jordan, I’d like to visit Jerusalem and the surrounding areas during the Christmas season.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on:
- the security conditions in Israel/Palestine,
- sightseeing in Jerusalem during the Christmas period.
Hi! If anyone has been to Georgia recently and could tell me if it's feasible to travel around the country using public transport. My itinerary would be Kutaisi (my arrival airport), Tbilisi, Mestia, Ushguli, Batumi, and back to Kutaisi (departure airport) in ten days. My flight arrives late at night, around 1 AM—would it be possible to take a taxi to get to the city center?
Any advice is welcome, and regarding the language, can you get by with English? Thanks in advance.
Hi everyone, I’m married to a Kurd from Iraq, and we’re heading to Kurdistan in November with our two-and-a-half-year-old son. Even though I’m really excited about this trip and happy to go, I’m a bit nervous because as a European woman, I feel like there’s nothing to do and I have this image of a dangerous country… To put my mind at ease, I’d love to chat with other Europeans who’ve been there. Thanks! !
Hi there
Does anyone know if it's allowed to use a drone (under 250 g) in Oman?
If so, is there any registration required for the device?
Thanks in advance for your feedback.
Laurent
Hi there,
We’re traveling from 12/23/2025 to 1/9/2025 in Oman.
However, our flight lands in Dubai.
So I’m looking for a car rental company that allows crossing the border into the Sultanate of Oman.
Thanks for your recommendations!
I think I saw there’s also the option of vehicles with rooftop tents…
Hello... nothing new for several
years now...
Can you go there independently from the rest of the country? Any recent experiences, either in Kurdistan or the rest of Iraq?
Thanks a lot
Hi, we’re traveling to Georgia soon and want to go to Azerbaijan. I’m having trouble finding info on crossing the border.
Is it possible to do it by car or train? Are the land borders between the two countries open? Or do we have to fly?
Thanks in advance
Since I had trouble finding up-to-date info, here’s an update on some key points for Jordan/Egypt ferries as of August 2025.
Right now, AB Maritime is the only company still operating ferries. Other companies sometimes mentioned (Jordan Sinaï Hotel and Tour, Sinaï Ferry, etc.) have stopped running (no response by phone or email, and confirmed on-site).
On the Jordanian side, the fast ferry doesn’t leave from the port of Aqaba but from Tala Bay (20 km further south). There’s supposedly a slow ferry that departs in the evening from Aqaba port (according to a taxi driver), but I couldn’t find any info about it.
Currently, there’s one ferry per day in each direction for Aqaba/Taba and another for Aqaba/Nuweiba. But the schedules aren’t great for backpackers—and they’re not the same every day.
On the Jordanian side at Tala Bay, you access the port by walking through a large resort, go through border control before boarding the ferry (+ luggage check). You have to pay the exit tax of 10 JOD (12 €) to "someone sitting on a bench in front"!!! It’s true—you need to ask who to pay, or customs won’t let you through without the magic coupon.
Oddly, I arrived early and managed to take a different ferry than the one I’d booked online by insisting (it wasn’t open for online reservations).
I bought the ticket on the AB Maritime website. Confirmation by email was brief. Then you have to find another person outside the port who has the passenger list and will give you the actual ticket. (What a joy this organization is!) Luckily, everyone’s really friendly with tourists.
On the Egyptian side, arrival in Taba isn’t in Taba itself but at Taba Heights (20 km further south), in a hotel zone. Immigration can be more or less quick depending on your place in the queue at the single office... (free Sinai visa or paid Egypt visa). And outside... nothing. Nothing: no exchange bureau, no ATM, no drink or SIM vendor... A nightmare. No bus station. One or two taxis at prohibitive prices. Personally, I walked about fifteen minutes to the Strand Hotel to find someone who could actually help me (ATM out of service in that big resort). From there, two bus companies currently operate: Webus in small vans but you have to book at least 2 days in advance (frequent, fast, reasonable prices) or GoBus with large buses (only one per day, even cheaper). They head south to Nuweiba, Sharm El Sheikh, etc. A taxi from Taba to Sharm was quoted at 120 USD at the port exit!
For me, the ferry and GoBus schedules didn’t align at all. If I’d known about Webus earlier, I could’ve saved 6 hours of waiting...
On another note, a Taiwanese traveler I met also mentioned that the Hurghada-Sharm El Sheikh ferry is no longer running.
Basically, these border crossings and ferries are more suited to organized tours than backpackers, but it’s still doable.
Hello everyone,
We’re just back from a wonderful adventure exploring Wadi Rum.
We spent 3 days and 2 unforgettable nights there. Our guide, Mohamad, introduced us to the desert—its beauty, its mysteries—with rare skill, kindness, and generosity. We hiked through breathtakingly beautiful places, slept in a Bedouin tent and under the stars, enjoyed delicious meals, and shared moments of incredible quality.
Mohamad honored us by sharing songs, poems, and stories, and introducing us to his family. His humor, life philosophy, and empathy will stay with us forever.
Without a doubt, one of the most beautiful experiences we’ve ever had.
Mohamad’s contact details can be shared via private message.
I’m also happy to provide any info about this unforgettable trip.
Michèle
So happy to be back with you all that I’m rushing to share my trip report!
We chose to stay exactly 14 days to avoid paying for a visa. As a result, we didn’t have time to explore the south—we’ll be back because Oman is a great destination in January. Temperatures were a perfect 25–27°C during the day. No rain for us, but it can happen.
We bought the *Évasion Oman* guidebook. We started with the Jebels (the mountains), abandoned villages, then the desert, wadis along the coast, and finished in the capital. For us, it was easier to go from cold (2,000 meters, after all) to hot before returning to our freezing Normandy in January.
The people were incredibly welcoming and lovely. We camped in natural camping areas where you can make a fire (free, no facilities or water). Easy to find—just search "camping" on Google Maps (an essential app). We traveled as a group of five and rented a 4x4 seven-seater from Europcar before leaving (price included our insurance): 800 euros for 14 days. Essential for getting everywhere, as there are lots of dirt tracks. We brought our camping gear from France since the baggage allowance is 30 kg. Oh, and also two liters of rum and a box of white wine—also essential.
Food was tricky if you don’t like spicy dishes or just chicken. You have to eat at international restaurants, which cost about the same as back home. We’d packed vacuum-sealed meat for the first three days and a few cans. For beaches, stick to the ones marked on Google for swimming—otherwise, they can be dirty and full of oil.
We arrived at 6:30 AM, bought a SIM card (make sure to remove yours before arriving and tape it to the back of your phone), exchanged money (not great rates at the airport—better in malls or souks; no exchanges in banks), and picked up the car. Then we headed to a Carrefour supermarket, but it was closed. We drove to Jebel Al Akhdar, the Sayq Plateau, where we found markets along the way. There are also bazaar shops where you can get gas bottles—they’re everywhere in mid-sized towns. There are even hypermarkets.
We hiked the well-marked old Sayq trail (red and white markings). Our return was improvised. We camped on the plateau and got cold—bring 0°C sleeping bags! The next day, we visited the abandoned villages of Wadi Bani Habib: juniper forests, canyon viewpoints. Then Birkat Al Maws on the way down—a beautiful palm grove. Next, Nizwa Hotel. The beds were really hard there—ask to see the rooms and test the beds before booking. There’s always availability, with prices starting at 35 euros for two.
On the third day, we went to Jebel Shams. Hiked along the canyon starting from Ghul, then descended. Camped on the road to Balha Fortress, which we visited the next morning (stunning!). Then we explored Nizwa before heading to the Wahiba Desert. Camped along the way, then drove to our accommodation: two days in the desert. We found the Thousand Nights Camp 40% cheaper a month before. Note: you have to leave by 1 PM in a convoy to reach the hotel.
On the sixth day, we hiked in the desert on our own because the activity prices were outrageous.
On the seventh day, we headed to a wadi, Bani Khalid, then to Sur, a seaside hotel. We booked just one room for five of us—hotel apartments are huge, and since we had our camping mattresses, it wasn’t a problem to set up in the living room. There’s even a kitchen. In cities, camping spots are poorly located—near intersections, etc.
Beach time and sightseeing on the eighth day, then we drove to the white sand beach in Fins, where we stayed for two nights (we left the tents set up but empty). This was our favorite campsite—go all the way to the end of the road, there’s a small cove and a stunning spot.
On the ninth day, we visited Wadi Shab and the Salma Plateau to find the tombs. The hike up from Fins was way too long—probably better to take the route suggested in the guidebook for a round trip. Meh, no one really enjoyed it.
On the tenth day, we went to Wadi Al Arbiyyin and drove to Seeb Al Mouj to book a diving trip. Stayed at Al Ferdous Hotel Apartments until the end—well-located for visiting Muscat and a great value. Just make sure to check the room first, as some beds are very hard and others aren’t.
Eleventh day: diving and beach time.
Twelfth day: visited the Grand Mosque (unlucky—first day it became paid, and not just a little: 8 OMR). Then explored the old city.
Thirteenth day: the Grand Opera and beach at The Village, where we found a great pizzeria: pizzawifi.com.
Fourteenth day: And that’s it—back home, thrilled to have discovered this magical country. We’ll be back!
Hi everyone!
I’m giving this a shot, hoping to get some answers that can help clear things up.
We’re planning a trip to Oman in February and want to rent a car.
The catch is we probably won’t have received our international driving permits in time.
After some research, we still can’t figure out if there are any rental companies that only require a French license...
or possibly a certified translation of it.
Given that the French license is recognized in Oman, we’re hoping for some advice.
Any tips would be hugely appreciated, and thanks in advance to those who can help!
Best regards,
Olyana
Hi there, 😄
my friend and I are leaving in 15 days for Kurdistan, by road, in our little converted van... The only thing we're sure of (well, the only thing we've actually thought about! The adventures will take care of the rest!) is that we're planning to take a month to get there, 15 days on site to visit my sister-in-law who's been living there as a teacher for a year! and 15 days to rush back, because my boyfriend has to go back to work on November 3rd!! After that, the itinerary isn't set yet—I've just bought a map of Europe... and still haven't found one of Kurdistan! or Iraq! I just finished work yesterday... and until now, this trip felt so far away... I didn't imagine much about it... I kept telling myself, "You'll see when you're done working, your brain will be more available!" Well, now my brain is in "gooo go go!" mode 😮 and it's going fast! I've got tons of questions popping up all at once!
- The itinerary... (we're thinking of lingering a bit in Greece on the way there... and taking a more direct route back). I don't think we've fully grasped what it's going to be like to cover at least 5,000 km in such a short time! Bibi's tinkering with the van (a Peugeot Expert that goes anywhere) and I'm the tour guide!
- Camping in the van... where? Under what conditions? Areas to avoid? Places not to miss?
- The borders... especially the Iraqi one! What are the formalities? Visa or no visa?
- The political situation in the countries we'll cross... (with our entourage putting pressure on us—they're right, of course! How many times have we heard, "You're crazy! Oh, you're really going? We've been hearing about this for a year but didn't think it was so soon... and with everything going on right now, isn't it risky? Aren't you afraid of getting kidnapped?" 🤪 To be honest, we don't know much, we've been a bit out of the loop, working hard... and just craving adventure! But I admit, sometimes I get little waves of panic 😕 when I check official websites... then I go back to daydreaming!
- Why not Couchsurfing?
- Oh crap, the most annoying part... the paperwork, insurance, health stuff, blablabla...
- Will the van hold up? 😐
- Should we prepare for the possibility of not making it all the way, and accept that not as a failure but as a different kind of adventure? Well, there you have it—a little peek into the chaos in my brain! 🤪/😎
So if any of this resonates with you... if you feel like sharing ideas, advice, or stories... we're all ears! Well, I am, and I'll pass it on to Bibi, the fearless warrior, wrench in hand, new tires at the ready, changing the oil and fine-tuning the beast! When I ask him what he expects, what he thinks, what his fears are (with me being the eternal scaredy-cat about wild camping in places I can't picture when we arrive at night—apparently a typical female fear, according to my surveys!—and the wonder of waking up to discover our surroundings... we made the right choice!), his desires... he just says, "Well, we'll start the car, go straight ahead, and see what happens. What do you think could go wrong?!" We complement each other well!