Maroc: Haut Atlas sans guide, est-ce possible?
by Aurelin
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je vais au maroc pendant 15 jours, je voudrais savoir s'il était possible de faire des randos dans le haut atlas sans guide, et pour cela s'il existait des cartes et itinéraires pour ne pas partir non plus comme des narvalos..!
Je voudrais que ces randos me servent à me déplacer de villages en villages sans revenir par le point de départ....merci à ceux qui pourront m'aider!
aurelin
Bonjour,
Très bonne question, je me la suis posée pendant très longtemps : je pars aussi randonner dans l'Atlas début septembre.
Tous les guides que j'ai lu (Routard, Lonely Planet, Géo) s'accordent sur le fait qu'il vaut mieux un guide pour se genre de rando car : Les cartes ne sont pas très fiables, souvent pas mises à jour. Pas facile de se réaprovisionner en route à moins de faire un cricuit qui suit les souks dans les villages (planning des souks dans le GTAM Grande Traversée de l'Atlas Marocain à demander à l'office de tourrisme marocain à Paris) ou de connaitre la région et l'arabe. Donc, ca fait beaucoup à proter si tu pars avec toute la nourriture + matos pour une semaine. Le guide part souvent avec un muletier pour porter ce qui est lourd. Le circuit est d'autant plus intéressant si tu prends un bon guide car il a souvent de la famille dans la montagne et peut te faire rencontrer des gens.
En tout cas, moi j'ai choisi de partir avec un guide. C'est vrai que si tu es tout seul c'est pas forcément le mieux. Du coup on est entrain de consituer un groupe pour rendre la rando + sympas (ya encore de la place). Si tu veux j'ai contacté un guide qui a l'air bien, si tu pars après le 16 spet, je te dirais comment c'était
Sinon, je connais un membre de VF qui pars seul. Mais il connais déja le Maroc et parle l'arabe (ses parents sont marocains). Je crois qu'il a trouvé un circuit. Il pourra peut etre te conseiller pour partir sans guide. je lui dirai de te répondre.
Si quelqu'un à d'autres réponses à m'apporter, je suis toujours preneuse !
Bon séjour en tout cas
Très bonne question, je me la suis posée pendant très longtemps : je pars aussi randonner dans l'Atlas début septembre.
Tous les guides que j'ai lu (Routard, Lonely Planet, Géo) s'accordent sur le fait qu'il vaut mieux un guide pour se genre de rando car : Les cartes ne sont pas très fiables, souvent pas mises à jour. Pas facile de se réaprovisionner en route à moins de faire un cricuit qui suit les souks dans les villages (planning des souks dans le GTAM Grande Traversée de l'Atlas Marocain à demander à l'office de tourrisme marocain à Paris) ou de connaitre la région et l'arabe. Donc, ca fait beaucoup à proter si tu pars avec toute la nourriture + matos pour une semaine. Le guide part souvent avec un muletier pour porter ce qui est lourd. Le circuit est d'autant plus intéressant si tu prends un bon guide car il a souvent de la famille dans la montagne et peut te faire rencontrer des gens.
En tout cas, moi j'ai choisi de partir avec un guide. C'est vrai que si tu es tout seul c'est pas forcément le mieux. Du coup on est entrain de consituer un groupe pour rendre la rando + sympas (ya encore de la place). Si tu veux j'ai contacté un guide qui a l'air bien, si tu pars après le 16 spet, je te dirais comment c'était
Sinon, je connais un membre de VF qui pars seul. Mais il connais déja le Maroc et parle l'arabe (ses parents sont marocains). Je crois qu'il a trouvé un circuit. Il pourra peut etre te conseiller pour partir sans guide. je lui dirai de te répondre.
Si quelqu'un à d'autres réponses à m'apporter, je suis toujours preneuse !
Bon séjour en tout cas
La terre n'est pas un don de nos parents, ce sont nos enfants qui nous la prêtent
Merci Elsa d'avoir pris le temps de me répondre....
Je pars également début septembre pour quinze jours.
J'arrive et je repars d' Agadir...et pendant ces quinzes jours je voudrais faire tout un périple du haut atlas jusqu'au nord du maroc puis redescendre par la cote vers agadir....
Faute d'argent et de temps, il sera assez difficile de faire un treck ou des randos de groupe...mais il est vrai que toute seule, je vais avoir du mal à me réapprovisionner!
Je crois que je vais improviser sur place!
Dis moi toujours ce que tu comptes faire la bas, avec quelles organisations, je verrai si cela peut etre réalisable...
Sinon bon voyage! On se croisera peut être!
aurelin
J'ai fait 3 randonnees dans le haut Atlas sans guide, Toubkal et 2 x massif du Mgoun. Dans ce dernier massif, bon reseau de logements agrees chez l'habitant + repas(tous repris dans une doc). Cartes genre IGN achetees a Bruxelles, excellente qualite. je suis en voyage, je n'ai pas ma doc avec les references, donc je ne peux vous aider plus. Mais allez-y, pas de problemes.
Salut aurelien,
le Haut Atlas sans guide c'est forcement possible....mais faut connnaitre !
je connais un guide, extra, qui m'a fait découvrir le sud marocain, et qui est originaire du Haut Atlas... si besoin j'ai ses coordonnées...
gibraltar
le Haut Atlas sans guide c'est forcement possible....mais faut connnaitre !
je connais un guide, extra, qui m'a fait découvrir le sud marocain, et qui est originaire du Haut Atlas... si besoin j'ai ses coordonnées...
gibraltar
on entre on crie et c'est la vie,
on crie on sort et c'est la mort...
Bonjour, je pars dans l'Atlas au mois de septembre. J'aimerais faire de la rando dans la région du M'goun, sans guide si possible. Où y-a-t-il moyen de se procurer des cartes à Bruxelles? Merci!
Olivier
Randonner sans guide ca se fait tres bien dans l Atlas maintenant, toute seule c est peut etre quand meme un peu craignos au niveau securite. Les chemins sont pas toujours super super et tu es assez vite loin de tout. Le ravitaillement n est pas le plus complique car dans le moindre bled tu trouve une epicerie. Voila, en meme temps je ne suis alle la bas qu une suele fois et avec quelqu un du pays donc je ne suis pas du tout expert. C est un point de vue parmi tant d autres.
salut! Où as-tu trouvé tes cartes? Je pars samedi matin pour Marrakech et j'aimerais faire de la rando dans le massif du M'Goun et dans le massif de Siroua. Etant étudiant, mon budget est (très) fort limité., Crois-tu qu'il est possible d'y partir à deux, sans guide? Y-a-t-il des possibilités de logement ou la tente est-elle la meilleure solution? Quid pour l'eau potable? Comment trouver les bons itinéraires? Je vais voir chez Anticyclone des Acores ce matin pour des cartes mais j'ai peu d'espoir.
Si jamais tu es à Bruxelles avant samedi, est-ce que je pourrais t'emprunter tes cartes et les photocopier?
D'avance merci pour ta réponse!
Olivier
Olivier
Bonjour,
Je viens de trouver ton message, et même s'il n'est pas de la première fraîcheur il m'intéresse vivement en effet j'envisage de faire une rando au Maroc mais je suis au tout début de la réflexion : guide ou pas ? la doc ( quels documents fiables ) quelle région ? exite t il des topos guides etc
Pourrais tu me donner quelques tuyaux ?
Merci beaucoup
Alain
J'ai fait plusieurs randonnees au Maroc sans guide. Il y a de bonnes cartes topographiques (pour le massif du Toubkal, par ex.). Pour le Mgoun, j'ai un topo guide mais il pourrait bien etre epuise.
salut, je mappel william, et je souhaite vaganbonder au maroc en juin (trop chaud?!), soyons bref jai lu qu'a l'epoque tu comptais trecker a la fois dans le massif du mgoun et celui du siroua. je souhaite aussi my rendre alors ma question decoule de suite: comment sest déroulé ton périple ? As tu profité des services d'un guide local ou bien etais tu en autonomie total, si cest le cas comment t tu debrouillé pour le ravitaillement, est ce relativement evident ? As tu trouver une bonne carte (si tu as la référence ya moyen que tu me la communique) et enfin comment as tu agencé ton circuit pour enchainer coup sur coup ces deux massifs? De façon général as tu bien kiffé ces regions et combien de temps cela ta pris pour realisé ton séjour. Vooooilaaaaa bcp de questions énoncé de façon bordélique je te l'accorde mais si tu pouvais m'aider par ton expérience, ça serai genial, merci d'avance!!
Salut J ai fait Agadir essaouira a 2 sans guide 200 km en 9 jours.sans carte.Puis tout seul en autonomie complete Imlil setti fatma(sans carte), La vallée des AIT bougemez, le Toubkal(sans carte) jusquau refuge, la riviere Mgoun de tabant a Boulemane(avec carte acheté a l hotel Ali a Marrakech 20€de mémoire).La vallée des rose( sans carte) et Le djebel Sarho avec un muletier 40€ pour 3 jours.C est possible de randonner seul quant tu reste sur les chemins qui vont de village en village et qui sont utilisé par les muletiers.je voyage avec tente rechaud multi carburant duvet matelas auto gonflant un minimum de fringue mais tres chaude, riviere Mgoun en janvier il fait tres froid.et des cachet pour l eau.Dans certain village tu pourra dormir dans des gites et amelioré l ordinaire a la petite epicerie.Car le hyophilisé ça va un moment!!!!.Cela dit méme si c est un peu dangereux j ai ttoujours croisé des locaux dans ma journée.C est une experience qui permet d"e bien se connaitre et qui amene beaucoup de respect de la parts des Marocain.VOILA ET N HESITE PAS A TENTER L AVENTURE.Patrice
que serait on sans le voyage
Bonjour
Je viens de rentrer d'un séjour dans l'Atlas.
J'y ai effectué la grande traversée de Bouguemez à Imlil et même un peu plus .
Je ne suis passé ni par une agence en France ni par les services d'un guide marocain.
La seule contrainte est de trouver un muletier qui connaisse le parcours.
La plupart des muletiers de Bouguemez travaillent pour des agences et ont un jour ou l'autre
effectué tout ou partie de ce parcours.
Il suffit de bien se mettre d'accord sur leurs connaissances avant le départ.
Dans le cas ou le muletier ne connait qu' une partie du parcours il est possible de trouver d'autres muletiers plus loin.
j'envisage de faire un raod book avec texte, étapes, lieux de bivouacs, gîtes éventuels, points GPS et photos mais ce sera pour l'automne.
En attendant je peux éventuellement donner quelques infos à ceux qui le souhaiteraient.
Bien sûr ce mode de fonctionnement est valable sur d'autres secteurs à condition toutefois de bien préparer son histoire, cartes, livres et d'emporter tout le matériel de camping, cuisine...
Pour ma part j'emporte une petite tente pour le muletier.
Cordialement
Jean François
Salut salut,
Je pars au Maroc avec une amie du 8 au 22 juillet et nous aimerions faire une étape dans le Haut Atlas, nous aimerions beaucoup connaître ton contact pour nous aider dans notre trip...Nous te remercions et si tu as d.autres ti conseils ou suggestions, elles sont tjrs les bien venues.
Un gros merci
Je pars au Maroc avec une amie du 8 au 22 juillet et nous aimerions faire une étape dans le Haut Atlas, nous aimerions beaucoup connaître ton contact pour nous aider dans notre trip...Nous te remercions et si tu as d.autres ti conseils ou suggestions, elles sont tjrs les bien venues.
Un gros merci
Bonsoir,
Avez vous fait ce voyage?
Je souhaite faire la même chose en solitaire au mois d'aout et je cherche des infos, témoignages, conseils. Existe t'il des topo guide? des cartes?...
Merci de vos réponses
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We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike. It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
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Bonjour
Souhaitant faire de la randonnée sur cette île, je voudrais d'abord savoir quelle serait la période la plus favorable sachant que j'avais passé quelques jours en novembre 2018 pas pour cette activité mais plus pour une simple découverte de l'île et le temps n'était pas top notamment en montagne. Donc peut on choisir une organisation en étoile sachant que je louerai un véhicule avec éventuellement 2 points d'hébergement.
Je n'envisage pas d'intégrer une structure mais de partir à 2 et de s'organiser sauf si vous me conseillez une agence locale ou un guide local. Enfin même si je compte me procurer les différents supports, carte et topo guide plus gps je vous remercie de bien vouloir me communiquer les randos à faire en priorité
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So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
Thanks in advance for your advice! 🙂
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish. I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips? Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina? At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
Thanks in advance!
Caro
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
Bonjour a tous,
je pars en voyage au Maroc en aout et nous allons commencer par nous arrêter a Chefchaouen(nous sommes en voiture).
Ma question: quelqu'un peut il m'indiquer un itinéraire de rando en boucle d'entre 5 et 7 jours aux départ de Chefchaouen dans le parc de Talassemtane passant si possible par le pont de dieux?Ou un guide papier qui en reunis quelques uns?
Nous privilégions le camping sauvage et les gites.
Merci d'avance
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS.
Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
Does that sound balanced to you? Is it better to keep the same accommodation on Harris and the same on Lewis to explore the area? I’d love to hear about any past experiences you’ve had on these islands. Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
Hi there,
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili. Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?) There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4. If any of you have been to Omalo, could you confirm that these shared transports exist and how often they run?
hi
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit. if any of you have done this before, could you let me know if it’s possible to find water along the way? And if we can transport it, are we allowed to use a stove?
thanks for any tips!
sandra
Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips. Here are my questions: - Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages) - I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share! Yann