je vais régulièrement à marrakech, je trouve que la qualité des repas se dégrade régulèrement chez chegrouni, un resto situé sur le pourtour de la place djemaa el fna, actuellement pour une tajine viande aux pruneaux il y a la moitié du plat qui est constitué d'oignons😕. D'autres personnes qui y vont régulièrement ont-elles eu cette impression ou est-ce purement subjectif ? Bien sûr, il y a d'autres restos sur la place comme le toubkal qui reste excellent et pas cher mais on ne peut quand même pas y faire tous ses repas
Bonjour à toi, alors d'accord avec toi on rentre du Maroc aujourd'hui même et cé vrai que les restos à Marrakech faut en trouver un bien. Tajine toute la semaine ce soir on change. On a trouvé un resto sympa sur la place, on y entre directement en rentrant sur une rue directement à droite, cé sur 2 étages juste en face il y en a un avec un grand panneau "conseillé par le routard", eh bien on l'a essayé celui-là et le lendemain malade, propreté à revoir et pour les repas "gras" pas fin du tout. On a fait quelques repas sur la place aussi, mais on se lasse vite. Voilà sinon on a fait un super parcours au sud avec une piste de chez Piste en 4x4 de luxe comme disent les berbères !
Moi mon conseil c'est de rester au max. 2 jours à Marrakech pour ceux qui veulent visiter sinon aller voir plus bas dans le sud ça change !
A bientôt.😊
salut zanzibarine, tu n'as pas essayé le resto de ton hotel, l'hotel ali ? j' ai jeté un coup d'oeil sur la carte affichée à l'extérieur, les prix ont bien augmenté mais j'y suis allé il y a quelques années et le resto sur la terrasse est agréable et la bouffe correcte
je ne vois pas oû est le resto où tu as eu des problèmes d'hygiène ; sur la place, je suis toujours satisfait du café toubkal près de l'entrée de la rue riad zitoun et du parking ctm on y trouve un repas complet pour moins de 30 dh, le petit déj c'est moins de 15, c'est très bien mais je ne veux pas y prendre tous mes repas, il faut varier.
quand aux restos ambulants qui s'installent le soir sur la place, je me méfie des conditions dl'hygiène, notamment du lavage de la vaisselle, depuis que j'ai constaté que dans le resto où je mangeais, la vaisselle de tous était lavée dans de l'eau très grasse avec une serpillière, je préfère m'abstenir même si ça plait beaucoup aux touristes qui découvrent marrakech
Le resto chegrouni au sujet duquel j'interrogeais les lecteurs se trouve à l'autre bout de la place, devant une mosquée, à droite, juste avant l'entrée des souks
Hello Phalempin, non on a même pas essayé le resto chez Ali mais on s'est fait de bons apéros sur la terrasse (achetés par nos soins) car en période de ramadan c'est dur de boire un verre de vin ou de bière ! Je ne sais pas le nom du resto où l'on mangeait mais c'est à l'entrée d'une rue par un escalier en colimaçon, resto à un étage et café au dessus. C'était bon. Je te rejoins sur tes commentaires des restos de la place, heureusement qu'il fait sombre car je ne préfère pas penser à ces petits détails... Voilà sinon l'hotel Ali c'est pas mal mais si je retourne à Marrakech j'irai voir ailleurs, c'est sûr il y a une bonne ambiance un peu routarde mais bcoup trop de bruit, là je viens de récupérer de mes heures de sommeil en moins. Ah oui si ça peu servir aussi à d'autres, l'hotel Farouk à Guéliz c'est pas du tout le top non plus comme le disent certains bouquins... maintenant les goûts et les couleurs c'est sûr ça se discute pas. Bonne journée à toi et bons voyages.
ok c'est vrai il y a de plus en plus d'oignons chez chegrouni peut etre depuis les travaux de l'an dernier ? on paie les maçons.... il y a aussi Oscar Progres dans la rue entre la rue des Princes et Bab Gnaou c'est propre sympa, pas cher et cela change et evite d'aller toujours aux mêmes restos c'est dans le même style en plus tres propre...
bonjour
merci pour avis, je pense que je vais renoncer au resto chegrouni, ça devient vraiment une mangeoire à touristes avec tout ce que ça suppose
je vais essayer oscar progres comme tu me le conseilles mais je ne situe pas bien, est ce dans la rue bab agnaou à proximité de la patisserie des princes, sur la gauche lorsque l'on vient de djemaa el fna ?
a +
Non c'est la rue à droite de bab gnaou (quand on est dos à la place) rue qui part entre la banque et la poste il y un parking à vélos juste au début de la rue, le resto oscar progres est à gauche apres l'intersection d'une petite rue transversale qui rejoint Bab gnaou (angle bar Mabrouka)
A éviter aussi le nouveau resto Mabrouka avec la cour intérieure, le cadre est sympa (il y meme des musicos locaux le soir )pour prendre un café (demander du carte noir) mais la bouffe est vraiment pour touristes
Si tu as de bonnes adresses je suis preneur.....
j'irai voir oscar progres la prochaine fois que j'irai à marrakech, je vois où est la rue mais je n'ai pas remarqué ce resto
j'ai remarqué le mabrouka, un peu clinquant, j'ai évité
personnellement, je plébiscite le toubkal sur la place à droite en sortant de la rue bab agnaou, bon rapport qualité/prix mais je recherche aussi la nouveauté, pour varier
bonjour, le restaurant toubkal est-il facile à trouver, pourriez-vous m'indiquer dans quelle rue il se trouve? avez-vous d'autres petits restos de ce style, biens et pas chers à me conseiller? merci d'avance
* ********* bonjour, 2 jours c'est suffisant pour voir Marrakech? **********
C'est toi qui voit !
2 jours c'est tout juste suffisant pour voir les incontournables des guides.
et meme en enlevant des choses surfaites mais recommandées, il reste tellement à faire, ne serait ce que de s'éloigner des 2 boulevards à touristes du souk et de s'y perdre, de jeter un oeil par les portes entouvertes de découvrir des foundouks dans leur jus, des ateliers d'artisans perdus au fond d'un derb, aller prendre la fraicheur dans les oliveraies de la Ménara, faire les vitrines de Guéliz, flaner dans les nombreux parcs et jardins qui viennent d'etre rehabilités ces dernières années.
Je trouve qu'un bon équilibre sur une semaine, c'est de sortir 1 ou 2 jours de Marrakech, pour une excursion dans l'atlas, et voir un vrai souk de montagne, et éventuellement (mais vraiment facultatif) de faire l'excursion Essaouira, ou Ouzoud.
bonjour, merci de votre réponse. C'est bien ce que je pensais, je reste 6 jours sur place et j'ai réservé une excursion d'un jour vers le haut atlas avec un guide, beaucoup de personnes me l'ont conseillé. Journée en 4x4 dans l’Atlas 65 €/ pax
Départ en 4x4 pour le village berbère de Moulay Brahim à 50 Km de Marrakech. Traversée du village à pied puis continuation par la piste du plateau du Kik face au mont Toubkal. Arrêt pour un thé traditionnel chez l’habitant puis descente vers le lac de Lalla Takerkoust par des plantations d’oliviers. Déjeuner berbère au bord du lac sous tentes nomades et temps libre pour se promener ou se reposer. (Durée de la piste 2h30
Par contre j'hésite pour Ouarzazate, certaines me disent que ça vaut le coup, d'autres non, vous en pensez quoi?
N'hésite pas, fuis !
Un A/R ouarzazate c'est 7 à 8 h de route pure, plus les pauses et les visites, seule la route est splendide, Ouarzazate ne vaut pas un clou.
Sur le trajet, la visite de Telouet est interessante, mais avec le crochet c'est mini 1h30 de plus.
Et la kasbah d'ait ben Haddou, splendide, certes, mais ne merite pas le sacrifice des 8 h !
A faire (absolument) lors d'un circuit plus long.
pour ton excursion Atlas, combien de personnes etes vous, quelle agence ?
nous sommes deux car moi les voyages en groupe c'est pas mon truc, c'est l'agence golden way car, je tente le coup, parait-il qu'ils bossent bein et que c'est pas les excursions typiques pour touristes
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
