j'envisage d'aller à Smara , j'y suis passé il y a bien longtemps mais je n'avais pas fait de pause .
Si l'un de vous y a séjourné récemment j'aimerais savoir s'il y a des possibilités d'hébergement .
J'ai vu qu'un camping aurait réouvert une dizaine de kms au nord de Smara .
Aurait il des chambres ?
Si quelqu'un passe par là j'aimerais bien avoir des renseignements .
Merci d'avance .
oups je ne peux pas t'envoyer de mp
à Esmara j'ai des amis
personnellement je ne suis pas restée au camping je n'ai pas aimé l'ambiance (j'étais la seule fille et deux hommes pour m'accueillir d'une drôle de façon) du coup j'ai mon QG en ville si tu veux je te mets en lien avec mes amis ils sont a - do - ra - bles ET généreux.
ENVOIE moi un mp j 'essayerai de répondre
😉
je n'ai pas vu les chambres mais les tentes, bof bof bof
et rien de mieux que l'ambiance en ville à Esmara.. du pur bonheur
(le hammam aussi)
Esmara c'est un mix de Marocains fabuleux, je me suis fait des amies et des amis partout et je vais y revenir et y passer plus de temps
😎
Bonne idée de pousser jusqu'à Es Smara, nous avons bien aime. Comme nous étions en fourgon, je n'ai pas d'hébergement à te conseiller mais les policiers rencontrés à l'entrée de la ville nous avaient déconseillé les camping ( qui ne semble pas avoir "bonne réputation" ) et nous avaient indiqué de nous garer sur une petite place en ville. Finalement nous y sommes restés une semaine...
J'y suis passé une journée en 2006 mais trop crevée pour faire une vrai recherche .
J'ai l'impression qu'on est au même point question hébergement , le camping d'après les retours ce seras niet , en voyageant seule pas envie de galère .
Pour le reste je verrais bien .
Merci pour ta réponse .
Bonjour
Je suis au camping de Es Smara depuis 3 jours ou j'ai été accueilli très chaleureusement .
Je voyage seul en fourgon depuis plus de 2 ans .
J'ai été invité a manger le couscous sous la tente ce midi .
Pour être passé aussi au camping de Dakhla (tout nouveau camping situé plus exactement a Taouarta 10 kms avant d'arriver a Dakhla )je n'ai rien noté de différent concernant les tentes : le confort sommaire du désert.Ici, c'est vraiment le désert ! 😛
Pour le camping de Smara je pense que la condition indispensable pour profiter des lieux est de disposer d'un véhicule pour se rendre à Smara située à une quinzaine de kms au Nord de la Saguia (le nom de l'oued ainsi que du camping )
Je suis certains de tes messages depuis quelques temps, donc a bientôt sur le forum (je n'y suis pas souvent ) où sur la route, inch Allah 🙂...
Merci pour ce retour en direct du camping .
Je me déplace en voiture donc aucun problème pour joindre Smara , mais je vois que tous ceux qui m'ont répondu sur Smara voyagent en fourgon ce qui est beaucoup plus pratique pour résoudre le problème de l'hébergement .
Cordialement ,
Hannah
Et si tu y allais sans adresse. Tu vas ds le quartier de la gare routiere.. C est comme ca que j en ai trouve pas mal (dont celui ou je suid pour ecrire ces lignes)
Assa , tu prends mon dernier carnet et tu vois les dégâts question hôtel de rêve /cauchemar très cher ....pas d'autre hébergement apparemment , le plus proche à Icht 60 kms . Mais le vieux Assa vaux le coup d'œil .
Tu dois pouvoir faire l'A/R en bus dans la journee depuis Guelminn , ça vaut le détour , la route est belle . les gendarmes m'avaient dit en mai qu'il y avait peut être une maison d'hôtes mais ce n'était pas sur . Il y a eu la Rose des sables ( fermée) .
Smara j'avais vraiment cherché , ça n'as rien à voir avec une autre ville , longue route depuis Tan Tan ( 220 kms) et ensuite la solution pour ne pas revenir sur ses pas c'est Layoune ...un peu plus de 220 kms , bonjour la journée 🏴☠️
Bonjour .
On m'a dit que l'hôtel Amine était bien ouvert , mais comme dans un premier temps je n'avais pas vu que ton post s'adressait à moi , je n'ai pas posé plus de question .J'essaierai d'en savoir davantage demain .
J'aimerais beaucoup rester encore un peu dans le secteur car j'adore l'ambiance authentique que je rencontre ici .
Merci du renseignement , j'attends de tes nouvelles sur cet hôtel si ca ne te dérange pas .
Je n'avais pas pu séjourner à Smara en 2006 et cet endroit m'avais semble effectivement beaucoup plus authentique .
Bonjour Hannah
L'hôtel a été rénové pour la seconde fois et on me dit qu'il est bien tenu .
Si je peux y accéder facilement avec mon fourgon un peu encombrant en ville , j'irai y faire un saut ces jours ci , car ma voiture étant également ma maison , je peux avoir besoin d'une solution de repli au centre , plus proche d'un garage en cas de soucis mécanique .
Pour l'instant je reste à La Saguia d'où je peux partir à vélo ou à pieds directement dans le désert .En fouillant un peu , il y a des trésors cachés dans ce désert oublié des touristes ! N'ebruitons pas trop la chose , lol , c'est ce qui contribue à son charme ...
Je te tiens au courant si j'ai du neuf sur l'hotel avant ton arrivée .
Bonne journée 🙂
Je viens d'arriver a Es Semara, avec mon VW transporter.
Quel est l'adresse du camping, ou à quel endroit se situe t'il ??
Merci pour les renseignements
Super Alain , je compte sur toi pour le compte rendu exhaustif des lieux , prix , environnement , et tout et tout 😉😉
Si en plus tu peux me trouver le prix de l'hôtel Amine je t'emmène un foie gras 😎
Bises .
C'est pourtant bon , dans les Landes y'a plein de centenaires . Foie gras + frites à la graisse de canard ça maintien la forme .
Bon , on est HS pour de bon .
Ses acides gras monoinsaturés ont des effets protecteur vis à vis du système cardio-vasculaire en diminuant l'oxydation des lipides et du LDL cholestérol et diminuant l'agrégation plaquettaire .
Pas de problème.
T'ai répondu par mp pour le camping.
Je sors de mon hôtel à "4 roues" et vais boire un coup et dîner
Bien le diable si je n'arrive pas à avoir des renseignements complémentaires.
A plus
Je viens d'arriver a Es Semara, avec mon VW transporter.
Quel est l'adresse du camping, ou à quel endroit se situe t'il ??
Merci pour les renseignements
Je vois que tu as trouvé .
Il semblerait que tu aies des adresses pour le foie gras ?!?! 😉
A demain , voisin !
Pour le camping , en venant de Laayoune, il faut effectivement prendre à gauche au rond point après le contrôle de police , direction Tan Tan vers le nord , passer le second contrôle de police .Le camping est à une quinzaine de kms au bord de la R101 reliant Es Smara à Tan Tan(très peu de traffic la nuit) , au niveau des antennes (couverture mobile et réseau 4G très corrects ).
Depuis Tan Tan , une quinzaine de kms avant d'arriver a Es Smara , le camping est sur la gauche de la route.
C'est pourtant bon , dans les Landes y'a plein de centenaires . Foie gras + frites à la graisse de canard ça maintien la forme .
Bon , on est HS pour de bon .
Et pour dessert mousse au chocolat ? Ça ressemble au "régime" alimentaire de mon fils aîné 😎
Bon loupé de rien.
A Smara, après enquête ce matin, les cinq ou six personnes interrogées ce matin en allant y petit déjeuner, ont confirmé que rien d'autre que Amine.
Le reste, unanimité, pas pour touristes.
Merci Vincent, et peut être à très bientôt puisque je vais encore traîné dans le coin.
Foie toujours disponible mais un coup de frigo serait bien utile
Perso, une petite ville tranquille où en y traînant un peu plus, sûrement de belles rencontres à faire comme évoqué plus haut par ( ?? ), Sais plus.
La plaque commémorative oui, mais beaucoup de km rien que pour elle.
Par contre, un assez grand quartier et divers bâtiments à l'architecture typique de l'époque Espagnole.
La partie entre Laayoune et Smara, à mon goût belle mais longue et chameaux
un peu partout, presque faisant la sieste sur le "goudron".
D'autres ressentis seraient sympa
J'avais bIen aimé la route Es Smara - Tan Tan , plus que celle de Layoune .
Surtout en prenant mon temps j'avais pu photographier les outardes ce qui pour moi vaut bien n'importe quel musée 😎
Merci pour ce retour Alain , au niveau hébergement je me doutais que c'était un peu galère .
Smara c'est parce qu'il n'y a rien que j'ai aimé justement , tout comme j'aime m'arrêter à Tazenakh ou l'on peut acheter du safran de dessous le comptoir dans une très vieille bijouterie .
Smara c'est aussi l'histoire des sahraouies , avec un grand H .
Tu es sans doute passé à côté sans les voir , ces oiseaux ont des caractéristiques qui les font se confondre avec leur environnement .
Ou alors les chasseurs des émirats qui adorent ce coin pour les dernières gazelles les ont occis 😉
A +
Comme pour beaucoup, avoir vu, permet d'enregistrer, mémoriser des détails, et mieux distinguer ensuite.
Suis encore dans le coin.
Ne perd pas l'espoir !!!
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊