Salut à tous, ca y est on rentre du Mozambique donc voici un petit post avec quelques mises à jour qui pourront vous être utiles.
Alors déjà, première chose à savoir le prix du Visa à la frontière AIE !!! 62€ par personne, sachant que normalement le prix à l'ambassade de France à Paris est de 40€, j'ai essayé de les contacter mais je n'ai pas eu de réponse, apparemment le prix du visa au poste frontière Swaziland/Mozambique serait moins cher mais l'info reste a vérifier.
Au poste frontière la demande de visa est plutôt rapide, comptez 30/45 min.
Si vous arrivez avec une voiture de location Sud Africaine pensez à demander à l'agence un papier de sortie du territoire OBLIGATOIRE, et certaines personnes ( non officielles bien sur) vous diront qu'il est obligatoire de souscrire une assurance obligatoire pour le Mozambique (30€), c'est complètement faux. Autre point important le poste frontière komatipoort/ressano garcia ( pas loin du Kruger) est ouverte 24/24h dans les deux sens ce qui est plutôt pas mal.
Au niveau de la route, il faut compter 7/8h entre cette frontière et Tofo, la route est très bien mais faites attention aux radars, il y en à de partout, on y a eu droit, l'agent nous à annoncer 50€ d'amende pour une vitesse de 80 au lieu de 60 ( ce qui reste à prouver mais on peut rien faire), on a réussi à négocier à 25€ sans reçu.
Entre Tofo et Vilankulos comptez 5H de route, nous avons conduit la nuit et à nos yeux il n'y a pas plus de danger car il y a beaucoup moins de circulation et moins de monde au bord de la route, nous avons roulé à chaque fois de nuit.
En ce moment l'essence est à peu près à 1€10
Concernant les prix on peut s'en sortir pour pas cher contrairement à ce que nous avions vu avant de partir comptez:
-3,50€ pour un poulet grillé/frites (1€50 dans les endroits non touristiques)
-4€ pour un poisson au barbeuq (en bord de mer à tofo)
-6,50€ pour 2 ou 3 langoustes avec des frites ou du riz( en bord de mer à tofo)
-75 centimes pour une canette de coca
-2€ pour des crêpes au petit dej
-4€ pour un emplacement de tente (par personne)
-8/10€ en dortoir et + de 20€ par personne pour bungalow
Et aussi quelques idées de prix pour les activités a Tofo:
-37€ la sortie bateau pour aller voir requin baleine, baleine a boss, raie manta, dauphins ( prix négociable)
-30€ 2 heures de quad dans les villages et bord de mer ( négociable)
-20€ deux heures de cheval sur la plage et dans les villages
-30€ deux heure de cours de surf
-5€ deux heures location planche du surf
Nous avons adoré Tofo car il y a plein d'activités a faire a l'ambiance est génial, nous conseillons le fatima's backpacker car les prix sont parmi les moins cher et on y mange très bien et le staff est génial. Et vous aurez 15% de réduc pour la plongée ou sortie bateau.
Pour la plongée et sortie bateau nous conseillons Tofo Scuba, staff excellent, très pro et très gentil. Nous avons vu des orques( très rare), nagé avec des raies mantas et des dizaines de dauphins.
Concernant Vilankulos nous n'y sommes pas rester car nous n'avons pas particulièrement aimé, et les prix sont plus élevés qu'à Tofo dans L'ensemble, 50 Dollar l'heure de cheval ou 75€ la sortie snorkelling. Mais beaucoup ont adoré Vilankulos, c'est vraiment notre ressenti personnel qui ne nous à pas donner envie de rester.
Voila pour résumer, et aussi point important si vous voulez faire de belles rencontres n'hésitez pas à vous arrêter dans des villages ou écoles pour parler, les gens sont accueillants et ca leur fait vraiment plaisir de voir que vous vous intéresser à eux, nous avons l'adresse d'une école ou les petits se feront un plaisir de vous voir, les profs se feront un plaisir d'échanger avec vous et vous pourrez faire une bonne action en venant avec des stylos et cahiers.
Nous avons aussi un contact pour dormir chez l'habitant au sein d'un village , si vous voulez apprendre à monter aux cocotiers c'est la bonne adresse.
En espérant que ce post vous serve, n'hésitez pas si vous avez des questions.
Bon Voyage a tous
Niko
Le plus beau voyage est celui qu'on n'a pas encore fait
Bonjour,
Merci pour ces infos tres interessantes, nous souhaitons partir depuis johannesbourg au mois de juillet en voiture mais je ne trouve pas de loueur me garantissant l autorisation de me rendre au mozambique. Quelle societe vous a loue la voiture ? Merci
nous allons passer par le kruger (aout 2013) pour entrer au Mozambique au Limpopo, pensez vous que nous puissions prendre notre visa à ce moment là où faut il anticiper. la réponse de l'ambassade du Mozambique n'est pas très claire.
merci à vous,
Bien cordialement,
Michèle
On peut prendre son visa en entrant dans Limpopo NP tant qu' ils ont des stickers à mettre dans les passeports, US $ 85, ZAR 750 ou € 55 (j' y suis passé en mai).
En plus tu devras payer ZAR 125 par tête pour le parc, plus ZAR 125 pour la voiture.
Je n' y ai vu (et je ne suis pas le seul) aucun animal à part des vaches étiques, plus des champs de courges et des villages indigènes (dans le parc). Des copains plus chanceux y ont vu UN éléphant en Avril.
Un hébergement correct dans le Parc: Albufeira Chalets avant la sortie sinon rien avant Xai Xai (350 km), la piste dans le parc est assez dégueu, la route ensuite en partie pas mieux.
AMHA on peut se poser la question de l' intérêt de passer par cette route.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
merci pour ces informations.
comme nous avons de nombreuses vaches en Alsace nous allons certainement revoir notre parcours.
nous avons choisi de decouvrir le mozambique pour ne pas retourner au Botswana. pas d'apriori particulier, finalement entre la renamo qui bloque les routes et les vaches a limpopo, quel est donc notre intérêt de nous rendre au Mozambique?
je reçois avec grande attention vos conseils et avis, merci à vous,
Le parc de Gorongoza a une accessibilité aléatoire en raison des problèmes avec le Renamo (mais tout peut changer vite), et il se dit - non vérifié - qu' il y a peu d' animaux, soit mangés pour survivre pendant la guerre civile, soit braconnés (le Bradt lui même n' est pas réellement enthousiaste, la dernière édition - de 2011 - dit que le Mozambique "fait des efforts pour"..ce qui signifie pour moi qu 'ils ne sont pas au niveau.. Maintenant, c' est affaire de goût, j' avoue préférer les endroits perdus au Kruger (ses voies asphaltés, ses campings clôturés, ses visiteurs en voiture de ville...).
Cela étant, t ce ne sont pas les barrages routiers au Mozambique qui doivent vous arrêter. Dans la pratique, il n' y a qu 'une centaine de km sur la route EN1 après le pont sur le Rio Save où on doit se déplacer en convoi avec escorte militaire. Cela fait un souvenir de plus.
Il y a sur le forum des fans du Mozambique, je respecte leur point d vue mais ne le partage pas vraiment.
Mais il y a sans doute pour le moment des destinations plus faciles (Zimbabwe, Zambie, Malawi).
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Faire attention et ne pas sortir "trop des sentiers battus ... les mines exitent et sont plus nombreuses que l'on croit.
Nous avons été stoppé sur la Nationale entre Inchope et Maputo par une brigade de déminage qui on fait sauter des mines enterrées a 50 metres de la route dans un chemin creux... ou nous aurions en toute innocence... fait un stop a l'ombre pour y déjeuner... (journal du 17 juillet..)
Bonjour,
Merci pour ces infos tres interessantes, nous souhaitons partir depuis johannesbourg au mois de juillet en voiture mais je ne trouve pas de loueur me garantissant l autorisation de me rendre au mozambique. Quelle societe vous a loue la voiture ? Merci
Salut, nous avons pris www.economycarrental.com
Tu peux cocher " passage de frontière " et ca te garantie le papier d'autorisation pour la frontière.
Le plus beau voyage est celui qu'on n'a pas encore fait
Bonjour
Nous avons traversé le Mozambique du Nord au Sud en Novembre dernier et nous avons particulièrement apprécié le Nord avec des habitants particulièrement chaleureux et accueillants, mais peut-être aussi parcequ'on connaissait déjà un peu le Sud 😉
En tout cas, Ilha de Mocambique est vraiment un super endroit, trés agréable et à notre avis mérite le détour (ainsi que Pemba, Gurué, ...)
Pour le parc de Gorongoza, après 2 tentatives infructueuses, nous avons réussi à le visiter. Ils sont en train d'investir et de refaire toute la partie hébergement / campsite, on a été très bien accueilli et on a particulièrement apprécié la piscine dans cette chaleur étouffante. Côté faune, malheureusement c'était en fin de période sèche intense. Pas mal d'animaux morts ou sur le point de mourrir donc spectacle pas des plus agréable mais ça dépend bien sûr de la saison. Principalement impalas, diverses antilopes et phacochères ... jamais vu autant de phaco ! Attention aux éléphants qu'on a croisé 2 fois et qui nous ont chargé systématiquement et pas pour faire semblant, sur plusieurs dizaines de mètres ! Bon souvenir quand même, et en plus on a pu voir une Sable antilope de très près.
Deux adresses particulièrement intéressantes testées pendant ce séjour :
- Camping Honey Pot juste après Xai-Xai (quand on descend vers Joburg) le long de la EN1 : très bon stop-over pour voyageur avec camping, chalet ... nickel et pas cher 580 MZN pour 2
- Camping au Cua Cua Lodge, juste avant Caia : excellent établissement sur les berges du Zambèze, 600 MZN pour 2
- Camping Massingir Dam dans le parc de Limpopo. On a vu les installations : impecc et très bien situé avec vu sur le lac de barrage. On s'y est arreté mais n'est pas resté car c'était le début d'après-midi et on n'avait vu aucun animal non sauvage dans le parc.
- et bien sûr archipel Bazaruto, Pomene, ...
Bien d'autres bonnes adresses et bons souvenirs du Mozambique mais je n'ai pas encore fini de travailler sur le carnet de voyage ... en fait je viens à peine de commencer ;-)
Par contre faire très attention aux radars, en particulier aux alentours de Xai-Xai où c'est très piégeux.
A part ce point négatif, que des bons souvenirs avec le Mozambique et surtout les mozambicains
Nadraia
www.aventures-nomades.fr
Dernier Album photos : Zambie-Zimbabwe 2015
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Et aussi : Kenya, Ouganda, Tanzanie, Mozambique, Afrique du Sud - Lesotho, Namibie, Botswana, Zambie, Zimbabwe, Oman, Rwanda, TDM KapSud (Afrique, Australie et Océanie) ...
Bonjour a tous,
Merci pour vos infos et vos récits, rien qu en les lisant ça donne envie d y être !
Il me semble avoir lu qu'il fallait avoir un certain nombre d. Equipement de sécurité dans les voitures comme des gilets fluo et triangles de signalisation, est ce vrai ?
Nous avons réservé avec econmy car rental, beaucoup moins cher.
A bientôt
Nous serons en Afrique du Sud puis au Mozanbique du 21 juillet au 5 aout. Nous cherchons des hébergements pas trop cher du côté de Tofo (pour un couple). Aurais-tu des adresses à nous communiquer ? Est-ce que les routes sont praticables avec une voiture classique ou faut-il absolument un 4x4?
As-tu gardé des contacts ou des numéros pour les activités (plongée, quad, cheval...)?
En attendant Ivory qui est très pris:
A Tofo, ce ne sont pas les hébergements qui manquent (idem pour la plongée): Fatima's Nest une adresse réputée, annexe de Fatima backpackers à Maputo, ambiance garantie.
Dans ce coin là, les accès sont praticables en voiture de ville.
Fatima's backpacker est excellent et à un très bon rapport qualité prix.
Tous les prix de nourriture que j'ai marqué plus haut sont issus de son restaurant.
Le staff est très sympathique, si tu passe par eux pour la plongée tu auras -15% à "tofo scuba" qui font de la plongée et océan safari( saison des baleines à boss quand tu y seras) je les conseil aussi.
Pour le Cheval tu peux demander aussi au staff de fatima's qui ont un contact, le prix est de 800 meticals pour 2 heures, si vous êtes 3 c'est 700.
Pour le quad tu trouveras l'agence de quad à 30 secondes à pied de fatima's, le prix est de 1200 meticals pour 2 heures, pour info j'ai réussi à le négocier à 1050.
Et pour la voiture j'avais une petite micra donc aucun problème à ce niveau la.
Si tu veux dormir chez l'habitant dans un village à côté de Tofo c'est possible j'ai un contact sur place( serveur de fatima) qui organise ça, tu dormiras dans le village de ses parents à 2 kilomètres ou aucun touriste ne va.
Ils apprennent à monter aux cocotiers et te montrent les quotidien.
Si tu veux plus d'infos ou si tu as d'autres questions n'hesites pas.
Niko
Le plus beau voyage est celui qu'on n'a pas encore fait
Merci beaucoup pour toutes ces infos mais... j'ai encore pleins de questions..!
- concernant le visa à la frontière, peut-on le payer en euros ou faut-il avoir du liquide Mt ?
- pour le reste (nuits, activités...), peut-on payer directement par carte ou y a -t-il des gabiers dans les villes principales ?
- tu as parlé d'une école ; est-ce une école locale ou une école française et peux-tu me donner les coordonnées, j'aimerai bien échanger avec eux une fois sur place ?
- et enfin, mon anglais est un peu "poussiéreux" et je ne parle pas du tout portugais... est-il facile de communiquer quand même ?
Voilà pour aujourd'hui mais j'aurais encore certainement quelques questions avant le départ si tu as du temps...
Merci encore et à bientôt
Agnès
Salut Agnès ,
Je confirme ce que dit voyagou,
Fatima's backpacker est excellent et à un très bon rapport qualité prix.
Tous les prix de nourriture que j'ai marqué plus haut sont issus de son restaurant.
Le staff est très sympathique, si tu passe par eux pour la plongée tu auras -15% à "tofo scuba" qui font de la plongée et océan safari( saison des baleines à boss quand tu y seras) je les conseil aussi.
Pour le Cheval tu peux demander aussi au staff de fatima's qui ont un contact, le prix est de 800 meticals pour 2 heures, si vous êtes 3 c'est 700.
Pour le quad tu trouveras l'agence de quad à 30 secondes à pied de fatima's, le prix est de 1200 meticals pour 2 heures, pour info j'ai réussi à le négocier à 1050.
Et pour la voiture j'avais une petite micra donc aucun problème à ce niveau la.
Si tu veux dormir chez l'habitant dans un village à côté de Tofo c'est possible j'ai un contact sur place( serveur de fatima) qui organise ça, tu dormiras dans le village de ses parents à 2 kilomètres ou aucun touriste ne va.
Ils apprennent à monter aux cocotiers et te montrent les quotidien.
Si tu veux plus d'infos ou si tu as d'autres questions n'hesites pas.
Niko
Coucou
Alors pour le visa à la frontière tu peux le payer en euros, en dollar, en Rand sudafricain et bien sur en Meticals.
Il vaut mieux retirer avant et payer en cash, il y a pas mal de distributeur un peu partout, dont un à côté de Tofo.
Pour l'école une s'agit d'une école locale, Le professeur m'a dit qu'il n'y a jamais de touristes, nous étions les seuls.
Je t'envois tous les détails en privé.
Pour la communication, si ton anglais est un poussiéreux tu arriveras quand même à te débrouiller, mais des que tu sors des sentiers battus personne ne parle anglais.
Donc apprends quelques mots de base ça peut toujours servir.
N'hesites pas
Niko
Le plus beau voyage est celui qu'on n'a pas encore fait
Tout d'abord, un grand merci pour ton post bien utile et récent !
Je suis en train de préparer mon voyage.. Finalement nous prendrons une 2 roues motrices à johannesbourg et verrons bien jusqu'où nous 'monterons' le long de la cote mozambicaine.
Ton info concernant l'assurance non obligatoire à la frontiere m'interpelle car beaucoup de post en parlaient ...
Du coup que faut il exactement pour passer la frontiere sans risque d'enquiquinement avec la maréchaussée : 1 ou 2 triangles ?, un autocollant, 1 ou 2 gilets fluo ??? et donc pas d'assurance ???
Question subsidiaire pour ceux qui sont allés sur place récemment : est ce que ça 'chauffe' toujours sur place depuis les évènements de juin dernier ?
Bonjour,
Nous etions au mozambique du 20 juillet au 2 aout 2013. Nous sommes partis de johannesbourg et nous n avons pu aller que jus qu a vilankulo car meme si la route est en parfait etat, c est limite a 100 km/h sur la route avec pas mal de camions et 60 km/h dans les villages qui sont tres nombreux. Attention aux nombreux radars en entree et sorties de village et evidemment bcp de pietons un peu partout !
Nous sommes rentres par la frontiere de komatipoort (sud Kruger), attention a 13h c est le changement d équipé, nous avons du attendre plus d une heure sans qu il ne se passe rien !!! Pareil attention aux mecs soi disant "cross border", ils prennent vos documents pour aire le visa alors qu on peut le faire tout seul. D ailleurs je vous conseille de prendre votre visa a nelspruit ou a paris car c est moins cher qu a la frontiere.
On s est fait arreter aux nombreux check point a la sortie de maputo et je vous confirme qu il faut : deux triangle et un gilet fluorescent. Par ailleurs, insistez a la frontiere sud africaine pour mettre un tampon sur votre lettre du loueur "cross border".
Appreciez bien votre voyage, le mozambique est un pays magnifique malgre les prix un peu hallucinant parfois !
🙂🙂🙂Merciiiiiiiiii !!!
Tip top tes infos ! du coup j'ai encore d'autres questions...😛
-Je pensais faire étape à nelspruit le 1er jour, je regarderai pour le visa : sais tu la différence de prix par rapport à la frontiere, et où il faut s'adresser exactement sur place ?
-vous n'etes pas allés plus haut que vilankulo faute de temps ou bien à cause des conditions de la route plus au nord ???
-le tampon cross border, il faut le demander au loueur ou aux douaniers sud africains ???
-pas d'autocollant sur la voiture, c'est sur ? (je l'avais vu sur d'autres posts)
...et si tu as de bonnes adresses pour le snorkeling, hotels/ b&b, restau, je prends aussi
Encore merci !!!
🙂🙂🙂Merciiiiiiiiii !!!
Tip top tes infos ! du coup j'ai encore d'autres questions...😛
-Je pensais faire étape à nelspruit le 1er jour, je regarderai pour le visa : sais tu la différence de prix par rapport à la frontiere, et où il faut s'adresser exactement sur place ?
-vous n'etes pas allés plus haut que vilankulo faute de temps ou bien à cause des conditions de la route plus au nord ???
-le tampon cross border, il faut le demander au loueur ou aux douaniers sud africains ???
-pas d'autocollant sur la voiture, c'est sur ? (je l'avais vu sur d'autres posts)
...et si tu as de bonnes adresses pour le snorkeling, hotels/ b&b, restau, je prends aussi
Encore merci !!!
Salut,
Pour l etape a nelspruit il faut aller au consulat du mozambique, en fait c est mieux de payer en rands grace au taux de change qui nous est favorable. Les prix : 760 rands, en euros 62 euros par personne. L avanatge du consulat c est de ne pas galerer a la frontiere
Pour votre retour, je vous conseille une etape a barberton super petite ville aux gens chaleureux !
En fait tu verras le mozambique est assez cher : excursions au minimum 30 euros par personne mais ça vaut le coup. A tofo nous sommes aller au bamboozi lodge, a l écart du village supers bungalows en bois qui surplombent la mer, il faut négocier les prix. Un resto vraiment pas cher et très bon. Sinon il y a fatima's nest, repère de backpacker. Avec bamboozi, réduction au tofo scuba diving sur les safari ocean et plongee
On est pas allé plus haut d abord parce qu on avait déjà pas mal dépensé et qu on etait en vpiture qui ne faisiat pas 44, or on voulait aller au parc de gorongosa donc on aurait ete oblige de louer sur place un 44 pour faire le parc ce qui coute selon le guide ( et tus les prix que j avais dans mon guide etaient faux !) 150 dollars la journee. Et puis entre vilankulo et gorongosa il y a plus de 500 kms sans escale possible alors le faire aller / retour on n avait pas envie ! La route a partir de maxixe ( apres ihambane) est vraiment excellente mais il y a beaucoup de camions
A vilankulo, l incontournable c est bazaruto, 35 euros par personne la journee avec repas du midi et snorkeling mais vraiment ca vaut le coup. Pareil il faut discuter selon les gars qui t accostent et comparer.
Comme repe de backpacker tu as le baobab lodge, pas tres cher, sinon le zumbie cucumber mais cher pour ce que c est, apres il y a bien de locations un peu partout
Pour le passage de frontiere : le loueur de voiture te donne une lettre, c est celle la que tu dois faire tamponner par les autorites sud africaines quand tu sors. Tu devras aussi avoir un document des autorites mozambicaines : il y a un comptoir special poour enregistrer ton vehicule, ensuite ils viennent l inspecter et tamponnent ton papier.
Surtout ne donne pas tes papiers aux mecs qui ont des badge autour du cou, ils te disent qu ils t aident mais en fait tu peux le faire tout seul et veulent de l argent !
Pour les autocollants sur le vehicule, on ne nous a rien dit, nous n en avions pas donc je ne crois pas que cela soit necessaire !
Maputo est une ville qui vaut le detour car il y a des construtions de gustave eiffel, par contre les hebergements sont hors de prix, le moins s cher qu on ai trouve c est fatima's backpacker mais franchement pas terrible (3000 meticals la nuit !) et souvent les hebergements sont complets.
Si tu as d autres questions, n hesites pas !
-pas d'autocollant sur la voiture, c'est sur ? (je l'avais vu sur d'autres
posts)
Si tu parles des autocollants avec un triangle jaune sur fond bleu, la réponse est qu'il en faut un à l'avant et un à l'arrière de la voiture. En plus des triangles rouges à disposer sur la route en cas d'arrêt, il faut aussi une veste réfléchissante!!🤪
-pas d'autocollant sur la voiture, c'est sur ? (je l'avais vu sur d'autres
posts)
Si tu parles des autocollants avec un triangle jaune sur fond bleu, la réponse est qu'il en faut un à l'avant et un à l'arrière de la voiture. En plus des triangles rouges à disposer sur la route en cas d'arrêt, il faut aussi une veste réfléchissante!!🤪
Salut JL,
Ton autocollant n' est il pas pour les voitures qui tractent une remorque ? (je n' en ai pas et n' ai jamais été ennuyé au Moz). En revanche, j' ai les fameuses bandes réfléchissantes blanc à l' avant, rouge à l' arrière (5x11 cm) comme demandé entre autres au Zim et en Zam..Quant a gilet et au triangle, je crois prudent d' en avoir deux..
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Merci à vous 2 pour ces précisions, je suppose que je trouverai ces fameuses bandes réfléchissantes dans une station service avant la frontière...
Cordialement
Tu as raison Eric: le triangle jaune et bleu n'est requis qu'en cas de remorquage. Comme on a l'impression que tous les sudafs l'ont, même sans remorque, je ne m'étais pas posé la question.
Même s'il est rappelé en chapeau du premier texte ci-dessus que la règle applicable en Zambie et au Zimbabwe s'applique également ici. Dans le second texte, on en parle exclusivement pour le Zimbabwe. TIA😉
Cet hiver, j'ai été verbalisé au Zimbabwe pour défaut de ces fameuses bandes alors qu'au Mozambique, où j'ai aussi été arrêté par la police, on ne m'en a pas parlé (alors même que je contestais un excès de vitesse). Un extrait de mes notes (Zimbabwe):
Au premier barrage, première prune de la saison pour non port de la ceinture ; sans demander aucun papier on vous dresse un reçu en bonne et due forme (5$)
Au deuxième on vous demande uniquement de présenter votre permis de conduire.
Au troisième, rien d’autre que si vous n’auriez pas un peu d’eau fraîche. Au quatrième la seule chose qui compte est de savoir si vous pouvez présenter le certificat d’importation temporaire du véhicule.
Le lendemain, après le cul-de-sac de Binga, il vous faut repasser au point de contrôle numéro quatre :nouvelle équipe de policiers, cette fois assistés de trois fonctionnaires de la Direction des Routes. Le premier recherche l’infraction, le second rédige la contravention pendant que le troisième, le chef, entreprend ma co-pilote. Vous n’avez pas, sur votre pare-choc avant, les réflecteurs blancs réglementaires :nouvelle amende de dix dollars cette fois.
Pendant les formalités passe un pick-up avec une dizaine de personnes hilares dans la benne, sans ceinture de sécurité !
En relisant, je me demande si ces gars-là ne font pas du taylorisme sans le savoir!😏
@Bigoodi: si ton loueur te permet le passage au Mozambique, peut-on penser qu'il connaîtra les règles, voire, fournira les bandes? Après tout, n'est-il pas de sa responsabilité que le véhicule soit conforme à la règlementation?
Merci Bien pour tout infirmations
Super
Je serais la bas en décembre avec mon 4x4, maniement je suis au Chile a la terre de feu, puis l'Argentine.
Je vais shipping mon 4x4 from Buenos Aries to Port Elizabeth if you have more tips please let me know.
Merci Bien
Jory
contact Jory57@gmail.com
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?
I’ve been to Rwanda twice before, in November 1991 and December 1993, mostly for solidarity work.
I’m looking into going back this November or December for three weeks, but I’m a bit hesitant when I see the tourist offerings—it’s so far from how I like to travel...
I travel solo using public transport and stay in places like guesthouses (GH), or accommodations run by cooperatives, associations, or religious groups. I love villages, markets, hikes, and local crafts.
So far, my searches for these kinds of lodging options haven’t turned up much.
For now, I’m considering visiting (in no particular order):
Butare: Kibeho, Bisesero, Nyanza
Ngenda
Akagera, Kibungo, Lake Muazi
Dian Fossey’s tomb (with the possibility of seeing gorillas)
Kibuye??? Is the political situation stable there? Or Cyangugu?
So here are my first questions:
-Is French still widely spoken?
-Are there lists of the types of accommodations I mentioned above, or places to find that info?
-Is what I’m planning doable using public transport? From the towns, are moto-taxis still available to get to villages, sites, and—most importantly—back?
-Is it possible to go hiking solo?
-Which are the best markets and what days are they held?
I know that’s a lot of questions already, and I really appreciate any relevant answers you can share.
Looking forward to exchanging more!
I’m planning my next trip in September, and after two self-drive trips to Botswana last year, I’d love to explore Kruger. Since I’m used to camping, I’m thinking of renting an equipped van from Kitted Africa (a small Suzuki van—thanks Safari Expert!) to sleep in a tent and occasionally in a hut.
Here’s my provisional itinerary, and I’d love to hear your thoughts if you don’t mind.
I’ve got 13 nights to plan in Kruger. The rental company is based in Nelspruit.
Entering from the south:
14-15-16.09: 3 nights at Crocodile Bridge or Lower Sabie
17-18-19.09: 3 nights at Skukuza
20-21.09: 2 nights at Satara
22-23-24.09: 3 nights at Olifants
25-26.09: 2 nights at Tamboti or Talamati
Exiting the park on 27.09 via Orpen Gate, then heading to Blyde River Canyon for a night in a hotel or elsewhere.
28.09: Return to Nelspruit, drop off the van, and stay in a hotel.
29.09 (midday): Airlink flight to Johannesburg, then an evening return flight to GVA.
What do you think? Too many nights here, not enough there?
I’ll be traveling solo, I love driving, and I enjoy settling in the middle of nature to listen, observe, and take photos (Botswana was perfect for that).
Thanks in advance!
Nicole
Photo: Baines Baobab, Botswana, April 2025
I’d like to return to Africa and stay in a lodge where I can see animals—not necessarily the Big Five—without needing any transport once I arrive at the lodge, and at a price under $250 per day for two people with full board. The week-long stay is planned for late June into early July. I’m looking for suggestions. Thanks in advance!