We’ve been back for a month now, so it’s high time I posted the story of our adventures! 😉 I’d also like to thank everyone who shared their own experiences on this forum (or elsewhere) and gave us tips—it really helped us plan our trip.
14/09/2019: Johannesburg - Vryburg
After months of waiting and reading other travelers’ journals, it’s finally our turn! We arrived in Johannesburg from Nantes and Paris in the morning. We looked for the Bushlore rep—we’d rented our 4x4 from them—but there was no sign with our name! « Bushlore? She’s a woman, I saw her a few minutes ago, » someone told us. A minute later, the Bushlore employee showed up: a man! 🤪 He sped onto the highway, and just 30 minutes later, we arrived at the rental place. It’s a big operation with good organization and lots of vehicles—pretty reassuring. Our 4x4 was there, a classic Toyota Hilux fully equipped for safari: rooftop tent, dual diesel tanks, 60-liter water reserve, two batteries, two spare tires, all the camping gear, plus everything needed for *désensablement* (getting unstuck from sand). Speaking of which, is it "désensablage" or "désensablement"? Best to just avoid getting stuck in the first place! 😏 Good news… or not: the vehicle was brand new, with barely 100 kilometers on the odometer. On one hand, we figured we wouldn’t have mechanical issues or a fridge breakdown, but on the other, we knew it wouldn’t be easy to return it without a single scratch. Either way, it was our first time renting a 4x4, and we were impressed.
We set off toward Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park—it’s not exactly around the corner! In 1994 (when Mandela had just become President) and 2007, during our two previous trips to South Africa, we loved this park, so we couldn’t imagine going to Botswana without returning. The road was pretty monotonous, with not much to see except a few ostriches.
We stopped for the night in Vryburg at the Kameelboom Lodge campsite. It was a bit noisy since it’s close to the road, and the facilities weren’t great, but it was fine for one night.
15/09/2019: Vryburg - Kgalagadi
The night was chilly: only 6°C. Knowing that supplies in the Kgalagadi would be limited, we stocked up on groceries for several days. But disaster—it’s Sunday, so we couldn’t buy a single bottle of wine or can of beer! Rookie mistake!
In Kuruman, we headed toward Van Zylsrus, a shorter route than going through Upington. The first red dunes appeared, along with large weaver bird nests—this was the start of the Kalahari.
We decided to cross the border at Middleputs. As Girardinpho mentions on his excellent site, this lets you join the new tarred road running along the entire Botswana-side border. While this choice made driving easier, it turned out to be a mistake—the Botswanan customs officer refused to let us bring in any fresh produce we were carrying: fruits, vegetables, and eggs (we had no meat, as there was a real risk it wouldn’t be allowed). Later, when we saw how things worked at the Twee Rivieren/Two Rivers border post—where, apparently, no veterinary checks are done—we realized we should’ve crossed there. Luckily, the officer was so thrilled to immediately find “forbidden” items in the fridge and a stray box in the trunk that he completely forgot to check the large drawer in the trunk where we’d stashed more fruits and veggies. Every little bit saved helps! Note that Middleputs is so quiet that while one official was dealing with us, the other two were playing Candy Crush and watching YouTube videos.
The tarred road on the Botswana side is excellent—just watch out for cows, sheep, and ostriches.
Since we were already in Botswana, the administrative formalities to enter Kgalagadi via Twee Rivieren/Two Rivers were quick, leaving us two hours to start exploring the park’s tracks. We were thrilled to return to KTP, straddling South Africa and Botswana—a place full of great memories.
But we’d forgotten that even though the tracks are easy, you don’t drive very fast (that’s not the point anyway), and with stops to watch animals (gemsboks, springboks, wildebeest, kori bustards, etc.), we couldn’t complete the loop via the small cross-track in just two hours.
We reached the Two Rivers camp before nightfall. We’d chosen to stay only in Botswana camps, and the prices are ridiculously low compared to what we’d pay in a South African camp (which are better equipped, admittedly): for two adults and a car, it costs 44 pula for park entry and 60 pula for camping—less than 9 € per day. There are four sites at Two Rivers camp, and only one was occupied—ours, as it turned out. While we were about to set up at another free site, the occupants insisted on clearing theirs for us (apparently, they had a reservation for that night but no site number on their voucher). The facilities are a bit run-down: we were supposed to have hot showers, but there wasn’t even running water. Okay, it’s cheap, but you get what you pay for! First night in the wild, under the full moon, and since the camp is just outside the park, no risk of a lion showing up.
Thanks, Nathalie.
It was still a great idea to join the paved road on the Botswana side. I think the customs officer was a bit overzealous. In the end, it wasn’t too bad—we didn’t starve in the Kgalagadi. 😉
I checked out your site many times before leaving, both for the amazing photos and all the info I could gather. And it was fun seeing the family grow and the kids get older with each trip...
The Botswanan customs officer refused to let us bring in any of the fresh produce we were carrying: fruits, vegetables, and eggs (we didn’t have any meat because there was a real risk it wouldn’t get through)
We’d also wanted to use a smaller border post during our last trip. The South African customs officer had warned us that our supplies wouldn’t be allowed into Botswana. So we opted for the easier option of the park border post, where nothing is ever checked.
16/09/2019: Kgalagadi
When we woke up, we were surrounded by yellow mongooses that weren’t shy at all. Nice!
As soon as the park gates opened, we set off to explore the trails. But we didn’t have much time ahead of us because we had to meet our friends Sylvain and Corinne, and their kids Alex and Claire, at 8:00 AM at the Kgalagadi reception. They’re on a year-long round-the-world trip and just arrived from Madagascar, and we’re supposed to explore Botswana together. We’d agreed on a first meet-up at 8:00 AM, another at 9:00 AM in case one group or the other wasn’t there, and at worst, we’d meet at the Rooiputs camp that evening. At exactly 8:00 AM, we were at the park entrance… but they weren’t! What to do with the little hour we had ahead of us? Knowing we wouldn’t have a chance to shower for the next three or four days, and since the showers at Two Rivers Camp were out of order, we decided to take advantage of the facilities at Twee Rivieren Camp right next door. At 9:00 AM, we were back at the park entrance… and so were our friends!
Despite the joy of seeing each other again, we didn’t linger because the trails were waiting for us. To easily communicate between vehicles, we dug out some walkie-talkies that hadn’t been used in years. Old tech can still come in handy when there’s little or no network! We headed toward Mata-Mata. In addition to the usual gemsboks, springboks, wildebeest, ostriches, jackals, and other easily visible animals, we managed to spot a few meerkats.
The excitement rose a notch when we spotted our first feline: a cheetah lying under a tree, unfortunately a bit far from the trail (though we could see it very well with binoculars). Less than ten minutes later, we came across a pair of lions, also napping and far from the trail. A little frustrated not to be able to observe them better, it still gave us confidence for the rest of the trip.
Still a bit surprising in this arid environment, what I’d call "the giraffes of Mata-Mata" (since, as far as I know, you can only see them in this part of the park) were drinking at a waterhole.
The temperature climbed to 38°C! We took a short break at the Mata-Mata camp and took the opportunity to stock up on wine and beer since we hadn’t been able to do so yesterday, Sunday. To get to the Rooiputs camp where we’d spend the night, we’d originally planned to take the main cross-route to the Nossob River valley, but the day seemed too far along, and it was more reasonable to backtrack along the Auob River and take the shorter cross-route. There was almost no one on this trail where we spotted steenboks, recognizable by their large ears.
The Rooiputs camp has eight sites spaced far apart. We had dry toilets, a cold shower (not really cold), and running water. Pure luxury, or almost!
This was the first evening we spent in an unfenced environment, so we made a fire—apparently, it keeps animals away… Well, not the jackal that seemed very interested in our meal! We ended the evening with some old rum from Madagascar brought by our friends.
TUE 17/09/2019 : Kgalagadi
During the night, we clearly hear a lion roaring. Far away? Not far? Hard to tell… In the morning, campers from the nearest site come over to see us:
- "Did you see the lion last night?"
- "Seen? No, but heard? Yes!"
- "Yet it passed right here!"
And they show us its tracks just thirty meters from the car… We kick ourselves for not trying to see it!
A long day of driving awaits us. Even though we made our reservations nearly eight months in advance, we couldn’t find an available spot at the Nossob or Polentswa camps. So we have to head to Sizatswe, all the way north in the KTP, while we’re currently at Rooiputs, way down south.
Luck is on our side because just a few kilometers after leaving camp, a lioness appears in front of us. She walks calmly alongside the track, then stops for a few minutes almost level with us before crossing behind the car and finally disappearing behind a dune. The day is off to a great start!
We stay alert but only see the park’s usual herbivores afterward, along with several bird species, including vultures, chanting goshawks, and bateleur eagles.
While we’re stopped at a waterhole watching gemsboks, we realize that behind us, just over our shoulders, a brown hyena is lying in the shade of a bush. It’s the first time we’ve seen this species, and we’re thrilled. It gets up, walks toward us, but eventually turns back, and we lose sight of it.
A little later, we arrive at Nossob and ask on the off chance if there might be a camping spot available. And just our luck—there is!!! It’s a "premium" site, meaning it has a private bathroom block. The price is pretty steep, especially since we also have to pay a day’s park fee at the South Africa rate, but we don’t hesitate long. We’re too happy to split the trip into two and stay in what’s maybe the best area for spotting big cats. It’s the middle of the day, 38°C, and animals are scarce, so we take a break now that we’ve got a great spot.
Later in the afternoon, we head north on the track. At the Kwang waterhole, a car is stopped even though there are no animals around. Odd! The occupants tell us there’s a pair of lions a few hundred meters further on, and they’re waiting there hoping the lions will come to drink. A few hundred meters down the track, there are no fewer than ten cars already clustered together. It’s hard for us to see the lions, who are partly hidden behind a tree. We wait for the vehicles to move a bit. It seems the lions have feasted recently and aren’t likely to leave anytime soon.
It’s the end of the day, and we head back to Nossob camp. We fill up on gas for the days ahead since the next station is far away. At the waterhole, kudus and jackals come to cool off. Jackals are also roaming inside the camp. Another big plus of this unplanned stop at Nossob: we can take a shower!
Amazing! Indeed, the brown hyena and the magnificent lioness 😊
For the lion at night, you’d need a camera trap like Sylvie used in Kenya—it’s awesome! 😄
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
The sun hasn’t risen yet when we leave Nossob for the Rooikop waterhole, a few kilometers to the south, where a leopard was spotted the day before. We stay for about fifteen minutes, but no animals show up.
We continue to the Marie Se Draai loop. Big cat tracks are clearly visible on the trail, but none appear—just kudus, springboks, and gemsboks. A handsome goshawk keeps watch over the waterhole.
We head back toward Nossob, as the journey to Sizatswe today is quite long. Along the way, we stop briefly at Rooikop just in case the leopard decided to make an appearance—but no luck! Just as we’ve barely left the waterhole, our friends following just a hundred meters behind shout over the walkie-talkie, "The leopard’s coming!!!". Quick reverse, careful not to scare the animal, we keep our distance. It drinks for three minutes, then leaves and disappears into the tall grass. You really had to be there at the right moment—it all came down to a few seconds!
North of Nossob, we arrive at the spot where we’d seen a pair of lions the day before. Incredible—they haven’t moved! The male is still well hidden behind a tree, and the female is a bit more visible. They seem to still have food and aren’t about to leave. Just like yesterday, the lioness gets up and moves about twenty meters away. A vulture watches the scene.
Further on, just before Polentswa, we spot an animal lying on the trail. We stop at a safe distance and scan it with binoculars—it’s a lioness! We slowly approach until we’re level with her (luckily, the trail is wide here). She doesn’t budge, not even opening an eye! We stay a while and observe her from every angle: she’s got flies in her nostrils. But since she seems fast asleep, we decide to move on.
At Kannaguass, we leave the well-maintained South African trails and head toward Kaa in the far north. For the first time, we face the deep sand of Botswana’s tracks. The sand itself isn’t a problem—the Toyota Hilux handles it well. The issue is that the trail is often narrow and lined with acacias with sharp thorns: hard to avoid scratches on the brand-new bodywork! We spot gemsboks and steenboks near the trail, seemingly unaccustomed to vehicles. Driving requires constant attention and is pretty tiring for us inexperienced drivers. Twice, in more open areas, we stop for about ten minutes to rest a little, while still keeping an eye out for predators.
It takes us a good three hours to reach Kaa from Kannaguass. Just before arriving, our friends’ 4x4 makes a strange noise. A quick check reveals that the underbody protection plate has partly come loose. Despite its thickness, it’s now completely bent under the vehicle and scraping the ground. We decide to push on to Kaa Gate before dealing with it. Once there, the rangers immediately help us unscrew the remaining bolts and remove the plate entirely. Given its thickness, there’s no way we can fix it ourselves. Oh well, our friends will have to do without it for the rest of the trip!
Normally, we’d continue to Sizatswe, where we have a reservation for tonight. However, there are two campsites at Kaa, but they’re emergency spots for those arriving at Kaa Gate from outside without a booking. From the start, we’d planned to negotiate with the rangers to camp at Kaa. First, because Sizatswe has no facilities—not even dry toilets. But also because tomorrow we face a long drive to Ghanzi, and leaving from Sizatswe would add an extra hour. Given how late it is, the rangers agree without hesitation. Great! Plus, we get to use decent restrooms with running water and showers.
Before nightfall, we have a little time to visit a waterhole about ten kilometers away: we only see kudus, springboks, and wildebeests. Back at camp, we’re visited by a fearless honey badger.
After this long, eventful day, we enjoy some Amarula.
19/09/2019: Kgalagadi - Ghanzi
In the middle of the night, we’re woken up by the roar of a lion. After hearing it a second time, it’s clear—it’s getting closer! Disappointed we missed the one that had crossed the Rooiputs camp two days earlier, we’re determined not to let this second chance slip by. The rooftop tent is an excellent observation post. We crack open the tent flaps. The moon is almost full, and we can see the surroundings pretty well. Suddenly, a shape appears and moves closer. No doubt about it—it’s a lion, or rather a lioness, perfectly visible as she passes ten meters from the car. But another roar proves she’s not alone. A few moments later, a lion approaches, right in front of us. We’re both excited and terrified when he stops just a few meters away and lets out a massive roar. We hold our breath. We’re frozen… Well, not entirely, since we try to capture the moment with a photo. Wide angle and rough focus in the dark… Too bad, the photo’s blurry!
Completely unfazed, the lion leaves, brushes past the car, sniffs a friend’s vehicle tire, then disappears into the dark. Needless to say, we didn’t get much sleep the rest of the night.
At dawn, we climb down carefully and check out the paw prints left by the big cats. Our friends had heard them too but didn’t dare open their tent. We don’t have time to waste this morning—the drive to Ghanzi promises to be long.
At Kaa Gate, we sign the KTP exit register. The previous travelers left two days ago, and the ones before that just a week earlier—the area is really quiet!
The track toward Zutshwa is deep sand, but it’s wider than the last one in Kgalagadi, so driving is a bit easier. There are still a few wild animals around.
We arrive in Zutshwa with a strong wind kicking up a lot of dust. Locals wave as we pass. There’s a 50 pula toll here (no one checked when we passed), which you can pay in rand, euros, or US dollars if needed.
Further on, we pass through the small town of Hukuntsi. Though it has several gas stations and plenty of shops, we keep going to Kang, especially since the last stretch is paved.
In Kang, we withdraw our first pulas from an ATM. We also get our tires reinflated (we could’ve/should’ve done it in Hukuntsi) and fill up on gas, including the two extra jerry cans we rented from Bushlore. The rental company was a bit surprised we needed jerry cans on top of the Hilux’s double tank. Let’s just say it’s for peace of mind, especially for the five or six days north of Maun with no possible resupply.
The road to Ghanzi is pretty monotonous. Suddenly, a big truck coming toward us flashes its lights. What did we do wrong? Are we speeding? Losing the rooftop tent? Not at all! It’s just to warn us there are elephants by the road. We also spot hartebeest, ostriches, and vultures.
When we arrive in Ghanzi, we head to the lush Kalahari Arms Hotel and Campsite, where we’d planned to spend the night, but it’s fully booked and we hadn’t reserved. So we go to Thakadu Bush Camp, just south of town. The campsites and facilities are decent. There’s a small watering hole where different antelope species come to drink—sometimes rarer animals too, but we don’t see any.
We’re mostly worried by the signs warning about thefts and advising not to leave anything visible in the car. The camp also has (slow) Wi-Fi, which lets us update our families and friends.
09/20/2019: Ghanzi - Central Kalahari
We finish up yesterday’s big shopping with the purchase of firewood and fill up on gas in preparation for the days ahead. We’re heading to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve, where resupplying will be impossible. After about an hour on the road to Maun, we turn right toward the CKGR. The sandy track forces us to deflate the tires, but we make pretty good progress until Tsau Gate, the northeast entrance to the reserve.
Elephant droppings are everywhere here, and the friendly ranger who checks us in suggests we head to the waterhole just one kilometer south. There’s no doubt elephants are in the area, but unfortunately, we don’t spot any. We continue for about thirty kilometers along the track that runs along the northern boundary of the reserve. It’s relatively easy to drive but monotonous, and the vegetation blocks the view of any animals that might be around. A few steenboks, lying in the shade, bolt as we pass. When we turn due south toward Motopi Pan, the track gets tougher. Alternating between deep sand, corrugated sections, and ruts, it’s narrow and lined with acacias that scratch the car. Sometimes, the vehicle lurches sharply from side to side or bounces violently. The drivers, who still have little experience with 4x4s, have to stay focused.
Plus, the vegetation still blocks most of the view, which isn’t much fun. It gives us the feeling that the Central Kalahari is truly wild and has to be earned. The landscape becomes nicer when we enter Passarge Valley: the vegetation is less dense, the dry grassy savanna looks like the classic African bush, and wildlife becomes more visible (springboks, giraffes, gemsboks, ostriches).
Suddenly, emergency brake! There’s a feline shape lying in the shade of a bush about ten meters from the track… It’s a leopard! Unfortunately, it’s barely visible behind the tall grass… We wait a while in case it decides to move… And we’re glad we did because it stands up, but ultimately heads in a direction that takes it away from us. Too bad—we didn’t get a good look at it!
The sun starts to set, and the Kalahari becomes stunning. The track is still long until campsite CKPAS1, where we arrive just before nightfall, pretty exhausted. Dry toilets, out-of-service bucket shower: at 130 € (for the six of us), yes, the Central Kalahari has to be earned—financially too! Even though the vegetation is quite thick, the site overlooks the plain and is rather nice.
We spend a pleasant evening around the fire, recapping the day that’s ending and looking ahead to the next one. The friends don’t want to wake up at dawn, so we’ll start the morning on our own.
That’s wild! Lions crossing the camp at Kaa Gate—we had the exact same experience. They roared through the camp in the middle of the night, and we found them at the nearby watering hole the next morning. During the crossing, we didn’t dare peek out of the tent—let’s just say it was a ground tent…
The next morning, after their nap at the watering hole, the lions crossed the camp again in the opposite direction. It really seems like this is a resident pride that’s been there for years, and this kind of adventure must happen all the time.
Kaa Gate campsite comes *highly* recommended! 😎
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
That’s absolutely true: quite a few travelers have mentioned seeing lions near the Kaa Gate camp. They were clearly patrolling their territory, and it seemed like a regular thing...
If you paid close attention, on the day of 09/18/2019, we had already spotted a leopard—and even observed it really well. If that hadn’t been the case, I think we would’ve been pretty frustrated to have only seen this one behind tall grass. But the trip isn’t over yet... 😉
1. Although we didn’t stop there, Hukuntsi is a real small town where we spotted one or two supermarkets (and gas stations). So it seems entirely possible to skip Ghanzi.
2. From Ghanzi, the distance is roughly the same between Tsau Gate and the CKGR entrance via Xade. Since there’s a large stretch of paved road to the north, it’s probably faster to reach the Central Kalahari that way. That said, I’d read here and there that you don’t see many animals outside Passarge Valley and Deception Valley, and that the tracks to the south are lined with vegetation that doesn’t offer great visibility (though I’ll admit the arrival via Tsau Gate isn’t great either). Honestly, I don’t have a strong reason—just that it was our first trip to Botswana, and we wanted to get to the essentials. Gotta save something for the next trip! 😎
3. That sounds tough! You know the CKGR pretty well, so you’re aware the tracks aren’t exactly smooth, with some deep ruts. Not to mention the animals you’ll definitely see and stop for, for varying lengths of time. So I’ll turn the question back to you: you usually take your time—why rush such a long drive in a single day? 😉
I wanted to know if it’s possible to do Xade Gate (CKGR) to Kaa Gate (KTP) in one day, not Xade Gate to Tsau Gate. 😅 I’ve corrected it in my first question.
It’s indulgent but doable.
I’m asking myself the same question for my trip there in April-May. We’re doing Kang-Piper Pan, which is pretty much the same route in reverse. Instead of taking the road toward Ghanzi, though, we’ll take the cutline that starts 20 km north of Kang and meets the CKGR fence, which we’ll then follow north all the way to Tsau. People who’ve been that way told me the western track to Tsau Gate is really rough, but the cutline is good, as is most of the track along the fence.
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
It’s indulgent but doable.
I’m asking myself the same question for my trip there in April-May. We’re doing Kang-Piper Pan, which is roughly the same route but in the opposite direction. However, instead of taking the road toward Ghanzi, we’re going to take the cutline that starts 20 km north of Kang and meets the CKGR fence, which we’ll then follow north all the way to Tsau. People who’ve been that way told me the western track to Tsau Gate is really rough, but the cutline is good, as is most of the track along the fence.
Thanks, I’ll take this info into account!
Otherwise, we’d thought about doing the trip in two days, but looking at the remaining bookings at KTP, we’d have to arrive a day earlier at Kaa Gate, and we’re not too keen on skipping a night in the CKGR.
It's hard for me to answer about the route between Xade Gate (CKGR) and Kaa Gate (KTP) because I don’t know the condition of the track leaving Xade Gate.
Drove 33 km to Kang, fueled up, and then north on the tar road for 51 km to the next cut line, heading easterly toward the SW point of the CKGR park. Had coordinates from T4A. Not signposted but obvious. This section was sandy for about 5 km, with a few farm roads leading off, but great after that for 35 km from the tar road. At this point, we reached a T-junction and turned north along a new cut line on the western border of CKGR.
This cut line is 121 km long and mostly undriven and smooth, sandy with a few sections of corrugations. At about 86 km from the T, there’s a pan with quite a lot of game, typical of CKGR—Pipers or Phokoje Pans. Nice area to stop and maybe wild camp if needed, though off the pan is suggested. At 93 km, a very sandy section where the track was difficult to drive, sometimes requiring low ratio, but you could drive on the side of the twin track in the firebreak area, which was grassy and sometimes bushy. A bit tricky since the bushes hid the driving surface, posing a modest risk of punctures. This section was about 25 km long, with heavy fuel consumption as you switched from side to side. Eventually, you hit a farm and a small corrugated, uneven, and sandy section, after which much of the same as the rough bit at 93 km, but mostly better.
Then we reached the east-west route to Xade. From the intersection, it was 25 km to Xade, with about 20 km absolutely terrible—very broken, uneven, corrugated, sandy, and cross-axle. Not a great drive. We were told the route west from the cut line is tough, with very poor soft sand sections requiring low-low dune-like tire pressures, diff locks, low ratio, and more. We didn’t see or drive this, though.
Erwan
La vie est belle ! La vie est belle ! Je me tue à vous le dire disait la fleur. Et elle meurt ( J.Prévert)
09/21/2019: Central Kalahari
Up at dawn, we’re not in the Central Kalahari for relaxation! The night was absolutely quiet: not a single insect buzz, no bird calls, not even a lion’s roar. As the sun barely rises, we head toward Sunday Pan Waterhole! The track is pretty rough—narrow and full of ruts. It takes us twice as long as expected to reach the watering hole. Wildlife is already active: jackals, steenboks, bustards, gemsboks, guinea fowl, and more.
Just before arriving, we spot fresh feline tracks on the track. They can’t be far—maybe at the waterhole… But no! The waterhole is huge, yet there’s not a single animal, not even an antelope. What a letdown! We backtrack, drawn by the name of the place: we head out to circle Leopard Pan. We see a honey badger digging in a hole, probably searching for food.
To the south of the pan, a short track leads into a cluster of trees, then a second one a bit farther. No leopard here, but a young lion is lying in the second grove. He seems to be waking up. Just a few meters away, we watch him stretch and yawn. Then he stands, walks about ten meters, and lies down again. We’re alone with the big cat, and selfishly, we appreciate this encounter even more.
Our campsite for the next night isn’t far, so we go check it out. At CKSUN1, it’s also dry toilets and a bucket shower out of service, but we paid less than 12 €. In the CKGR, some sites like yesterday’s have been privatized and cost 10 times more than those still managed by Botswana’s national parks, like today’s—yet the facilities are identical. Let’s talk about the toilets: not exactly clean, and especially with huge ants constantly crawling in and out of the bowl—total mood killer!
After this little break, we go back to see “our” lion since it’s so close. He hasn’t moved an inch! A car enters the pan via the small track, circles the first grove, then turns back without continuing to the second cluster of trees. Too bad for them!
With the lion completely inactive, we head back to Sunday Pan Waterhole. This time, large herds of springboks and gemsboks take turns at the waterhole.
We continue south and complete a big loop, returning to Leopard Pan. The track is in really bad shape, and in the hottest hours, there’s little wildlife to observe. For a moment, we think “our” lion has left, but he’s just moved twenty meters away, into the shade of an isolated tree in the pan. We drive slightly off the track to get closer. He’s still just as lethargic, so we head back to Sunday Pan Waterhole again. Waterholes are so rare in the CKGR that we hope it’ll be a parade of animals, but it’s not really the case—just a few gemsboks. However, we run into our friends. We tell them there’s a lion in Leopard Pan and guide them there.
We circle the pan again—the light is gorgeous. Then we go set up at our campsite. As the crow flies, the lion is only a kilometer away, and he’s probably not alone, so we stay alert and don’t linger outside too long in the evening.
Hi Muriel.
After carefully reviewing all the lion photos, there’s no porcupine quill stuck in its neck, but when you zoom in on one of the shots, you can clearly see one lodged in its front paw.
This morning again, we're up at dawn and leave camp as the sun is just rising. Our friends are struggling to keep up with our pace and decided to get up later. We heard some hyena calls during the night, but no visitors to report. So we head out alone toward Deception Valley—it's just 9°C (48°F).
The track is in really bad shape, forcing us to stop regularly to pass very slowly. We spot some bat-eared foxes, unfortunately quite far away. Also jackals, ground squirrels, and korhaans. We pass by the site where the OWENS couple settled in the 1970s to study the Kalahari’s wildlife. Their fascinating book, *The Cry of the Kalahari*, is of course in our luggage, and we try to imagine what their life was like for seven years in this wild environment.
Every now and then, we stop and scan the distance with binoculars to see if a big cat isn’t lounging under a tree… Usually, it’s just a log, but this time I shout, "Here, three lions!" After double-checking, my co-pilot confirms. Small problem: they’re about 200 meters off the track, and the reserve’s rules say you have to stay on the tracks. Oh well, the temptation’s too strong—and besides, we haven’t seen a single vehicle all morning. So we break the rules and slowly approach the lions. Turns out there aren’t three but six—two male lions and four lionesses!
We feel a little surge of pride for having found this group of big cats, and selfishly, we enjoy the moment even more because we’re alone with them. It’s not even 9 AM, but they’re already dozing. Well, not *that* dozy—whenever the sun hits their bodies, they get up, move a few meters, and lie back down. So they’re actually pretty active, shifting around and cuddling.
We’ve been watching the six lions for nearly two hours when a car approaches—the first we’ve seen since leaving camp about four hours ago. It’s our friends, who spotted us from the track and figured if we were there, there must be a good reason. We stay with them for a few minutes, then leave and continue west along Deception Valley, which today is living up to its name rather poorly. We spot several groups of giraffes, most of them standing in the shade of thickets—it’s already very hot. At Letiahau Waterhole, the wildlife is sparse: just some guinea fowl. We stop for a bit anyway, but no other animals come to drink.
A little further west (as Professor Calculus would say), we come across three lionesses lying under acacia trees right by the track. They’re not completely lethargic, though not very active either, so we watch them for a good while.
We continue a bit further west, but with so few animals around (it’s really hot at this time of day!), we decide to turn back. We pass by the three lionesses again and can’t help but watch them once more.
The same goes for the group of six lions further on—they haven’t moved much since the morning. Their positions are really funny: sprawled on top of each other or asleep with all four paws in the air.
The day is already well underway, and since we passed through earlier, we know the track to our campsite tonight is rough and full of ruts. Still, never satisfied, we leave the main track to circle Deception Pan, where we see a few antelopes and some ground squirrels.
In the late afternoon, we settle in at Kori Campsite #4 (CKKOR4). The bucket shower is out of order again, but the view is relatively open, and the spot is pretty nice.
We’re up bright and early and head toward Matswere Gate. We leave the Central Kalahari with a bit of regret, even though the lack of showers is starting to get to us. 🤪 At the gate, the welcome is as friendly as ever, and we’re asked to report if we’ve seen any lions, leopards, or other rare animals. Outside the reserve, the track is a little better, but still sandy. We spot a few more antelopes, but it’s mostly large herds of cattle that slow us down.
We reach the paved road at Rakops, where we inflate the tires and fill up on diesel. This big village seems very lively: there’s a market and lots of people in the streets, including Herero women dressed in their stunning traditional outfits. Our food supplies are still plentiful, which is just as well since the shops are pretty poorly stocked. At the butcher’s right across from the gas station, there’s no meat for sale, and in another similar shop, just frozen chickens. We were hoping for better!
We hit the road again toward Khumaga. It’s a relief not to be driving in sand and dust anymore, but we know it won’t last. Suddenly, we slam on the brakes—there are three elephants right by the side of the road! In Khumaga, we turn off toward Makgadikgadi Pans National Park. The Boteti River is dry, and it’s hard to imagine it ever being full of water. Anyway, the ferry is there, stranded on the ground, and we cross a small waterhole without any trouble to reach the opposite bank. The park entrance is right there, and we’re warned to watch out for vervet monkeys—they’re big thieves.
Zebras, wildebeest, kudus, and impalas—the herbivores are already very visible. But before exploring the Boteti River, we stop at the campsite for a bit, since a shower is absolutely necessary. The track overlooking the river is in deep sand, and we have to watch out for zebras and impalas darting out. Taking a small side track to the left, we end up right above a large group of hippos lying by the water. Even better, we can climb down into the riverbed!
Though there’s generally little water, we find the landscape much greener compared to the yellowed vegetation of the Central Kalahari. The wildlife is abundant: giraffes, large herds of zebras and wildebeest, as well as many elephants and various bird species (vultures, marabous, ibises, etc.). We’re truly amazed by this stunning natural setting. We watch the elephants for a long time, keeping a reasonable distance—though not everyone does. We drive a bit randomly through the riverbed, of course being careful not to scare the animals or get stuck in the mud.
To climb back up the riverbank, we shift into low gear for the first time—the slope is steep and the sand very soft. It works! We’re getting better at driving the 4x4, but we’re still a bit out of our league for the Dakar! 😉 We continue along the track overlooking the river, then head back to camp just before nightfall.
09/24/2019: Makgadikgadi - Nxai
This morning, the vervet monkeys invaded the camp. We stay vigilant when packing our things because they quickly sneak into the cars to swipe something.
We return to the Boteti River bed. Activity is much quieter than the day before, but we still spot giraffes, wildebeest, impalas, and several bird species. So, we don’t linger too long here and head toward Phuduhudu Gate in the north of the park. The sand is still deep, so we keep our speed very moderate. Despite a few tricky spots, we don’t get stuck. The vegetation is dense, and we see few animals.
As always when leaving reserves, we sign the register: we’re the first to exit this way today. We reach the paved road connecting Maun to Nata, but for the ten kilometers needed to get to the entrance of Nxai Pan National Park, we don’t have the energy to reinflate the tires. I’ll say it again—the welcome at the park entrance is very warm. The rangers even try a few words of French. The track heading north is wide but quickly becomes boring. After about twenty kilometers, we turn toward the Baines Baobabs area. The partly charred vegetation and smell of smoke indicate the area recently had a fire.
The drive feels really long, but discovering the giant baobabs along the edge of the vast pan quickly makes us forget the monotony of the track and the near absence of animals. The sense of isolation is immense. However, at this time of day, the light isn’t ideal for photos.
It would’ve been nice to sleep around here, but we chose to stay at South Camp. We find the track heading north just as uninteresting, and right along the edge, the savanna is on fire.
When we arrive at South Camp, the regular presence of elephants is obvious—there’s so much dung. Not to mention the restrooms, which are surrounded by a barrier to keep the pachyderms out. An elephant is right there, next to the toilets, siphoning the wastewater! After a short break, we head out to explore the park’s tracks.
With the smoke from the fires, the sky looks strange—completely opaque. Wildlife is really scarce, but elephant dung is everywhere. We head to the only permanent waterhole. When we arrive, a large elephant is drinking. Then, a continuous parade of elephant groups follows. Two giraffes try to approach but eventually give up. There are lots of cars, as if this were the only place to see animals. We watch the pachyderms bathe, splash, and play noisily in the water for a long time. We’re in the front row—maybe even a little too close when some of them decide to leave the waterhole. We make a quick exit!
After a quick spin on other tracks, we return to the waterhole for sunset—absolutely stunning! We stay almost until nightfall.
Back at camp, while we’re preparing dinner, an elephant passes just ten meters away. To save some wood, we burn dung. During dinner, we spot a bright yellow spider just a meter from our table, then a yellow scorpion walks by our feet. Later, we also find a tarantula and a black scorpion right in front of the toilets. This place is a little sketchy! 🤪 Especially since the bushfire isn’t far—we can see the glow of the flames.
25/09/2019: Nxai - Maun
Before leaving Nxai Pan National Park, we head to the watering hole where elephants had gathered the day before, but no animals are there. It takes us an hour to reach the paved road via the same track as yesterday—monotonous and not exactly easy. Fortunately, the road toward Maun is more relaxing, even if there are a few potholes. You mainly need to watch out for zebras, giraffes, and warthogs roaming outside any reserves.
When we arrive in Maun, we’re surprised to see cows, donkeys, and goats roaming freely in the streets—after all, it’s a big city by the country’s standards. It also seems very lively and far from the description Delia and Mark OWENS gave in their book *The Cry of the Kalahari*. Still, there’s nothing much to do here except that it’s the gateway to the Okavango Delta!!! ;) And that’s exactly why we rush to the small airport to book a (partial) scenic flight over the delta for today or tomorrow. The first company we’d spotted, Mack Air, has no availability for three days. But luckily, Major Blue Air offers us a flight for the same day at 4:00 PM. Perfect! That gives us time to take a little break at Maun Rest Camp, a campsite a few kilometers north of the city. The site is quiet and wooded, right by a completely dried-up river.
Back at the airport, we all board the same plane. Everyone has a window seat—it’s perfect! And you can even sit in the co-pilot’s seat… just don’t touch the controls! There’s a strong wind, and the pilot warns us it’s going to be bumpy!
Even though it’s the dry season, the colors are stunning—yellows, greens, blues. Still, we have to admit we were expecting to see more wet areas. It’s yet another sign that a severe drought is currently affecting Southern Africa. At another time of year, the delta would surely have looked completely different.
We’re thrilled to spot elephants, giraffes, zebras, hippos, as well as huge herds of buffalo and wildebeest. As expected, the turbulence is significant, and several people in the plane get airsick, but we enjoy every moment.
For us, the Okavango Delta is a somewhat mythical place we’ve dreamed about for a long time—we’re over the moon!
Unfortunately, the pilot turns back toward Maun. The crosswind landing is pretty impressive, but everything goes smoothly.
Before heading back to the campsite, we stop by the "liquor shop" since our supplies are running low.
09/26/2019: Maun
Like in the Tour de France, today was kind of a rest day for us. So, we didn’t get up until 8:00 AM—a first on this trip. There was a lot of wind all night, and it’s still going. Unlike the photos you see on the Maun Rest Camp website or Google Street View, the Thamalakane River, where we’re camping, is completely dry. A bit disappointing! It’s overrun with cows… we would’ve preferred hippos!
We still head out for a walk in the riverbed until we reach a small waterhole where a few fishermen are casting their lines. To our surprise, the place is crawling with crocodiles—about fifteen of all sizes. There are also some fishing birds and several monitor lizards. We spend a good while watching the crocs since the terrain lets us observe them up close without any risk.
We spend most of the day resting and reading. In the afternoon, we go shopping since there won’t be any chance to stock up for the next five or six days, and we fill up on gas. We stop by the craft market by the roadside. There are some cool things, and everyone tries to convince us they made everything they’re selling themselves.
We leave Maun heading for Moremi. We pass lots of children on their way to school, and whether they're little or big, it seems like they're all in school. That's great!
About thirty kilometers north, the paved road turns into a dirt track, but it's still pretty smooth. Twenty kilometers further on, we reach a veterinary gate, but there's no check in this direction—just a little wave and we carry on.
Before arriving in Moremi, we already spot elephants and giraffes, some of which cross without warning. 🙂
Since we didn’t manage to get a spot in the camps inside the reserve (even though we booked eight months in advance), we’re a bit nervous when we enter: will we be allowed to visit? But since we’ve booked several nights at Mbudi Campsite, just ten kilometers from Khwai, there’s no issue. Phew!
We head toward Black Pool and Xini Lagoon. The landscape is more wooded than in the reserves we’ve visited so far, but not much greener. Even though we’re right next to the Okavango Delta, it’s still pretty dry. The animals are plentiful, though: giraffes, warthogs, zebras, impalas, and more, but especially *lots* of elephants. Sometimes solitary, but mostly in groups, we can clearly see all the generations—adults, teens, and tiny baby elephants.
hi,
wow, I devoured this and can't wait for the rest!
I think I've found our next trip.
after Kenya, northern Tanzania, and southern Tanzania, this is the trip I'm excited about!
thanks for these amazing photos🙂
thanks
Thanks, Nathalie. I really need to speed up posting my travel journal online because right now, I feel like it’s dragging a bit.
Anyway, I highly encourage you to travel to Botswana. One important note: you have to plan *way* in advance (a year, maybe even more?) because accommodation options are limited, especially in Moremi, Savuti, and Chobe. We booked 8 months ahead and still couldn’t get spots in the camps in those reserves. So we had to improvise, but we still saw a lot. That said, I do have a little regret about not being able to sleep inside Moremi (even though we were just on the edge) because in the end, it turned out to be my favorite reserve.
The reserve is large, and we realize we won’t be able to head much farther west. So we turn back to get closer to North Gate.
Not nice to stick out your tongue 😛
At Hippo Pool, the hippos are out in full force. A large group of elephants comes to drink.
By chance, we then enter the marshy area in the northeast of the park, not far from North Gate, more or less along the Khwai River. The wildlife there is incredibly rich, with lots of birds, waterbucks, baboons, and a whole bunch of other species.
We would’ve loved to linger there, but the sun is starting to set, and we need to head back to our camp outside the reserve.
We stop for a few moments to take photos of the Khwai River bridge (the other one! 😉), while our friends continue on. We’re no more than five minutes behind them.
Khwai Village
A few kilometers past Khwai Village, several vehicles are stopped, including our friends’. We communicate with them via walkie-talkie: three African wild dogs were there, but they’ve just disappeared. What a letdown for us—we’ve never seen them before!
We arrive at Mbudi Campsite as night falls. The welcome is friendly, and the facilities are decent, with running water and hot showers. But most of all, the view from the four sites along the Mbudi River is absolutely stunning. We don’t know it yet, but this will probably be the most beautiful spot of the whole trip.
We can hear hippos nearby, and the many elephant droppings show that pachyderms are in the area.
During the night, we heard hippos grazing near the tent, and also the roar of a lion—fortunately farther away. A bit frustrated that we hadn’t been able to venture deep into the Moremi Reserve the day before, we decided to wake up early enough this morning to be at the ‘gate’ right when it opened at 6:00 AM. Our friends weren’t as brave and preferred to delay their departure a bit. It was still pitch black and only 6°C (43°F) when we got up. Though we’re used to it by now, it always takes a little time to pack up the tent and get ready. After about twenty minutes on the track, we arrived at the North Gate. It was 6:02 AM, and no ranger was on duty. Oh well, no need to sign the register, and since we already had our permit for today, we didn’t consider ourselves in the wrong!
Even though our goal for the day was to reach Third Bridge (and return), we started by heading to the marshy area on the right just after entering the park. The light was gorgeous, and we spotted the first animals of the day: zebras, warthogs, and waterbucks.
Suddenly, we saw two African wild dogs appear right in front of us. Actually, they were coming from everywhere, and eventually, a pack of about twenty-five individuals approached. As if by magic, they settled near the track, just ten meters away from us. We were over the moon! We’d narrowly missed three wild dogs yesterday, but this was even better! Two of them wore tracking collars, proof that the pack was being monitored. While most of the adult dogs rested, with a few keeping watch, the pups acted like pups—they ran around, pounced on each other, and playfully nipped at each other’s ears. Adorable!
Since we’d done our homework 🙂, we knew that wild dogs are often followed by hyenas, so we scanned the bush. And sure enough, there was one—followed by a second! They kept their distance, but we managed to get closer before they disappeared into the tall grass. The day was off to an amazing start!
We continued our journey westward. As we progressed, the wetlands became more extensive, and the wildlife remained abundant.
Carnets de voyage › Botswana / Namibie · 6 replies
Enfant, je revais de savane, lions, elephants, villages africains alors quand les enfants ont parlé d'Afrique australe pendant l'étè, je ne fus pas longue à me…
Nous sommes revenus il y a déjà un mois d'un superbe voyage au Botswana. Suite à de bons retours, notamment sur ce forum, nous avons choisi de nous adresser…
Carnets de voyage › Namibie / Botswana · 80 replies
Avec un peu de retard, nous tenons à faire un compte rendu de notre voyage effectué en Namibie et Botswana, qui nous a conduit pendant 1 mois à travers des…
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
Bonjour tout le monde, nous voici rentrés d'un RT USA organisé par nos soins du 31/07/2026 au 26/08/2026.
La destination : Le Sud-Ouest USA avec le Texas, l'Arizona et le Nouveau-Mexique. 7000 kilomètres effectués à la louche.
L'Auto : Une Chevrolet Equinoxe pour deux en passant par BSP Auto et Avis. Et dedans 2 valises, un sac de voyage, deux valises cabines, la glacière de chez Walmart, le matos photos et les bouteilles d'eau (pack de 40).
Le trajet : Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo et Dallas pour finir avec départ sur DFW.
Les voyageurs : Deux séniors bien avancés dans l'âge (73 et 75) mais toujours en activité (pas épuisante physiquement) (pour rester vivants et financer les voyages), autonomes physiquement à 100%, intellectuellement beaucoup moins, passionnés des USA, pays où tout est possible, plus marcheurs que randonneurs, plutôt hôtels à partir de 3 étoiles que motels de bord de route, plutôt restos Italiens que nourriture US, adeptes des arrêts fréquents pour les photos, plutôt musées que rien, Plutôt sieste que marches forcées. Pas trop râleurs, juste ce qu'il faut pour rester français au pays du grand Satan qu'ils disent.
Pas trés doués pour les langues, Anglais des rues (mais bien pratique), Espagnol nul pour moi hormis : " Hola ! Una Cerveza por Favor ! " Cela fait court. Madame comprend tout mais refuse de parler.
Le coût du RT : Environ 12 000 euros avec les vols AF, Auto, Essence, cadeaux, visites et tutti quanti. Bien maitrisé puisque 13500 euros prévus au départ.
Le bilan positif : Un régal avec les longues routes à perte de vue. Des Musées à découvrir. Le constat de la présence Hispanique et de son Histoire importante dans ce secteur de l'Amérique. Des locaux adorables. Des touristes plus ou moins sympas. Un accent Texan abominable et difficile à comprendre. Des stations Gas qui sont de véritables magasins avec nourriture préparée et autre alcools vendus en Arizona et Nouveau-Mexique et des employés au top ! Toujours prêts à rigoler !
Le bilan négatif : La chaleur tout au long du séjour...43° sur Dallas en fin de séjour. Impossible de sortir dans les rues. Beaucoup de "Homeless" dans les rues de l'Hyper Centre de Dallas. Les breakfasts Hôtel toujours les mêmes. On s'y fait.
Donc, positif certes mais le concept commence à fatiguer. Il se pourrait que le modèle RT autonome soit repensé pour le prochain. SI celui qui est en haut nous prête vie.
Pour la suite, attendons les premières photos triées et passées à la moulinette.
Le dernier carnet sur le Turkménistan date de 2019. Voici donc un court retour sur ce vaste pays désertique qui se visite un peu plus facilement qu'auparavant.
C'est mon premier carnet. Si vous avez des questions, n'hésitez pas. Le pays s'ouvre lentement mais il est possible de visiter des sites où vous serez tout seul. En 5 jours, j'ai vu 2 hongkongais, quelques allemands et un chilien au cratère, 10 chinois dans un bazar de la capitale, et c'est tout !
Il est possible de visiter le Turkménistan depuis l'Ouzbékistan. Le plus simple et le plus économique est de se rendre en taxi jusqu'à la frontière depuis Boukhara. Le trajet prend un peu plus d'une heure.
Le passage de la frontière est assez long puisque de nombreux Turkmènes ramènent des objets achetés en Ouzbékistan afin de pouvoir les revendre au Turkménistan. Par exemple des couches, des produits pour bébés ou des produits de beauté.
Il m'a fallu plus de 2h30 pour franchir la frontière. Il est obligatoire pour visiter le Turkménistan d'avoir un guide et de passer par une agence de voyage. Les agences britanniques proposent souvent des séjours de trois, cinq ou sept jours à plus de 1 500 ou 2 000 euros.
Mais si votre budget est plus limité, il vous suffit de contacter quelques agences turkmènes directement par mail qui vous feront une proposition entre 700 et 1 300 euros pour trois à sept jours. J'ai pris un séjour de 5 jours de Turkmenabat dans le Nord-Est du pays jusqu'à Dashoguz dans le Nord. L'objectif est de visiter les principaux sites classés à l'Unesco, dont Merv, et les sites archéologiques comme Nisa ou Gonur Tepe.
Votre guide sera également le chauffeur. Il viendra vous chercher à la frontière. Les formalités sont très longues car les douaniers doivent multiplier les tampons et l'obtention du visa que vous avez préalablement demandé à votre agence de voyage nécessite plusieurs contrôles. Mais le passage se fait relativement aisément même si chaque étape est assez longue.
Une fois de l'autre côté, première surprise, l'autoroute est très récente jusqu'à Turkmenabat. Une très longue file de camions s'étend sur plusieurs kilomètres du côté turkmène afin de pouvoir passer la frontière et aller en Ouzbékistan. En effet, selon mon guide, les camions turkmènes transportent du gaz, du coton (pas à cette saison puisque la récolte a lieu en septembre), mais ont surtout un réservoir plein car le prix du carburant est beaucoup moins cher au Turkménistan. Un plein pour une voiture vaut à peu près 3 euros, ce qui est défiant toute concurrence.
Depuis le poste frontière de Farap, l'objectif est d'atteindre la ville de Mary qui abrite dans sa banlieue, à une trentaine de kilomètres, le site classé à l'UNESCO de Merv. Cette cité est connue comme étant une fondation d'Alexandre le Grand au IVe siècle avant Jésus-Christ sous le nom d'Alexandrie de Margiane. Plusieurs forteresses sont visibles.
Après plus de trois heures de route, nous déjeunons dans un restaurant turc qui s'appelle Aladdin. Plusieurs citations du président sont visibles sur l'autoroute, mais la route est de qualité et on avance aisément. Ce sera de loin la meilleure route du pays. ça se gâtera largement par la suite.
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Il arrive souvent qu'on nous demande quoi visiter en Belgique .
Et les réponses ramènent le plus souvent à Bruges , Gand, Anvers et Bruxelles , avec raison , ces villes valant la peine d'être visitées 😉 .
Toutefois, la Belgique, bien que petite , ne se limite pas à ces 4 villes .
J'habite l'une d'entre elles ( Bruxelles) , passe avec plaisir du temps dans les trois autres , mais j'ai envie d'aborder d'autres coins moins connus , qui pourront compléter le séjour de ceux qui ont envie d'en voir un peu plus , ou de voir autre chose .
C'est qu'entre deux voyages , j'aime bien visiter l'un ou l'autre coin du pays où j'habite .
D'où l'idée d'un carnet de balades .
La plupart des endroits dont je vais parler peuvent être visités en faisant l'aller-retour le même jour , au départ de Bruxelles , que ce soit en transports en commun ou en voiture .
Dans l'ordre chronologique des sujets abordés :
- Le barrage de la Gileppe ( province de Liège) -message 2 , page 1
- Le domaine de La Hulpe ( Brabant wallon ) - message 3 , page 1
- Malines ( province d'Anvers ) message 4 , page 1
- La côte - message 5 , page 1
- Le Westhoek , au départ de La Panne - message 6 , page 1
- Le Zwin, au départ de Knokke - message 7 , page 1
- Lier ( entre Malines et Anvers ) - message 8 , page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9 , page 1
- La région de Florenville . - message 12 , page 1
- Les Cantons de l'Est - message 13 , page 1
- Dinant - message 18 , page 1
- Le jardin japonais d'Hasselt - message 24 , page 2
- Louvain message 29 , page 2
- Louvain-la-neuve - message 32 , page 2
- Ostende - message 42 (page 3) et message 166 (page 9)
- Les floralies de Grand-Bigard . - message 43 , page 3
- Le bois de Halle -message 44 , page 3
- Les pralines - message 54 , page 3
- Charleroi - message 68 , page 4
- Namur - message 92 , page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier ( Marcinelle) - message 95 , page 5
- Les couques et les gozettes - message 96 , page 5
- Liège - message 99 , page 5
- Tournai - message 115 , page 6 .
- Audenarde ( Oudenaarde ) - message 121, page 7
- Jardin botanique de Meise - message 124, page 7 .
- Tongres ( Tongeren ) - message 125 , page 7 .
- Château de Beersel ( Brabant flamand) - message 126, page 7 .
- Bruxelles confinée ( messages 150 et 154 , page 8 )
- L'hôpital Notre Dame à la Rose , à Lessines ( messages 161 et 162 , page 9 ) .
- Westende ( message 167, page 9)
je complète cette liste au fur et à mesure de l'avancement du carnet ...
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of a year at most in Thailand, and I’m no great expert.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to deliver a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who feel nostalgic about it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guardians for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big yard. Be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t all that made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though? Much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been full of holes for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the roadside, sometimes right on the road. When you approach, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, reminding visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. When you see a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you think twice about running into them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at death’s door in temples, enduring terrible suffering with no one to help. The image (and the smell) of one of them, agonizing and exuding the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The animal, well-fed, quickly became a happy and enormous beast with its own garden. Yet it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water there for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not just for fun—these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
I’d been wanting to discover Sulawesi for years. But then life happened—COVID, the cost of flight tickets, you name it. Long story short, years went by, but we finally set off as a family for a three-week trip in southern Sulawesi: Rammang Rammang, Rantepao, Sengkang, Bira, and Selayar.
I like to spend a good amount of time in the places I visit, giving myself the chance to really get to know the area and meet locals. So no island-hopping this time—just the south. But when I say "just," it’s not restrictive at all, given how rich this island is in landscapes, little encounters, and magical moments.
Wednesday 07/08 - Thursday 07/09:
We left Montpellier for what was supposed to be five flights, though we only took four to start, landing in Jakarta.
We picked up our luggage there to catch a flight to Makassar the next day. That’s the only way we could get an affordable ticket (702 €).
I won’t bore you with the flight details—there’s not much to say. We arrived at 7 PM and considered heading straight to Makassar that evening. But we opted for a recovery night before taking off again. Good thing we did, because my son’s suitcase was missing...
First contact with the locals was a bit stressful—a trip without your luggage isn’t exactly fun. But right away, a woman reassured us: the suitcase was just enjoying some extra time in Singapore. Maybe it was doing some last-minute shopping. Anyway, nothing serious—it was supposed to arrive at 9 AM the next day. That gave us some breathing room since our flight wasn’t until noon.
So off we went to our hotel (Days Hotel & Suites) near the airport. It was cheap (40 € for three rooms—my kids are older and need their space), but it wasn’t worth much more. The place had definitely seen better days. But no big deal—we were only there for the night, and... we got to watch France beat Morocco in the World Cup live at 3 AM. That’s what really mattered!
Friday 07/10: In search of the lost suitcase
First challenge of the morning: finding our missing suitcase. They sent us to the airport basement, to the staff entrance. We were greeted with smiles, and an airport employee led me through the underground corridors back to the baggage claim. Right on time at 9 AM, the suitcase arrived, just like they’d promised. We were finally complete!
Off we went to change terminals, grab a well-deserved meal, and board our fifth flight to Makassar.
Little side note: I struggled for a while trying to book domestic flights directly on the airlines’ websites with no luck. Without meaning to advertise (though I guess I am a little), I realized it’d be easier to use sites like tiket.com or Traveloka. That turned out to be a great choice—I even ended up booking hotels through them later in the trip.
12:40 PM: We were on our way to Makassar. First good news: we were the only tourists. Well, the only European tourists on the flight, anyway.
No, you’re not dreaming—the bag is full of... potato chip packets.
To each their own souvenirs, I guess...
When we arrived in Makassar, a driver was waiting to take us straight to Rammang Rammang: 250,000 IDR (12 €) to our guesthouse (Rammang Rammang House). Forget about meeting people on the bus—we were headed straight to the first stop of our trip, and it was already stunning.
My kids’ guesthouse:
Ours:
View of the little lake:
But not everything is straightforward around here.
I wanted to get a local SIM card for internet and calls. I found them expensive at Jakarta’s airport (20 € for 20 GB), so I decided to wait. Well, no luck in Rammang Rammang either. You can’t just buy one from the local shop—you need a Telkomsat store (they have the best coverage). So we’d have to wait for Rantepao to get Wi-Fi... When I say "local shop," I mean the little shack around the corner. No big deal—we’d find one easily in Rantepao for 5 € and 25 GB. So there we were, offline, just the four of us enjoying the amazing view.
Saturday 07/11: Rammang Rammang
We woke up early to the sound of wedding music blasting through the village (everyone’s invited!). Off we went to explore the area.
A little walking, a little boat ride (shared with a French tourist and a Polish one—yes, there *are* tourists here, just not many; 750,000 IDR for up to 8 people) through a lovely canal, and we discovered the karst site. It was peaceful and beautiful.
The river:
The karst site:
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Okay, Palermo—we know it. We go there to marvel at the architectural wonders born from the Arab-Norman-Byzantine-Gothic mix. And rightly so. We also go to treat our taste buds to all kinds of delights, both savory and sweet. Again, rightly so. We go to succumb to the charms of Palermo’s women, their sun-kissed skin glowing with golden highlights. Still, rightly so. And all while fantasizing about a mafia we’ll never actually see. Anyway.
But you’ll also find street art everywhere, even in the historic center. Sometimes, you just need to step a few meters away from the main tourist highways like Cassaro, Via Maqueda, or the main arteries of the Ballarò, Capo, or Vucciria markets to stumble upon some amazing murals. Duck into one or two slightly grimy alleys, weaving past trash and crumbling walls, and you’ll find real gems.
For example, just 50 meters south of the main artery of the Mercato del Capo, there’s a great spot with dozens of murals in a tiny neighborhood of run-down mini-houses. You’ll find plenty more south of the Mercato di Ballarò, in the Albergheria (the grittier side, not the one near Cassaro). There’s some in Ballarò itself too, but it’s hard to spot when the market’s in full swing with stalls everywhere. La Kalsa isn’t left out either, nor is Vucciria—just step away from the restaurant-packed streets.
Here are a few examples that really caught my eye.
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
We landed in Victoria Falls, Zimbabwe, and headed straight to Kasane in Botswana to pick up our car.
Our vehicle is a 4x4 because in Zambia, it's practically impossible to use anything else, especially in the national parks. I’ve already had the pleasure of visiting South Luangwa National Park—it’s one of the reasons for this trip, the main one being to travel in Africa with one of my sons.
First stop: Livingstone on the banks of the Zambezi River. Along the way, we discovered a lovely restaurant at Socrates with a super-friendly owner (we’ll actually stop there again on our way back). We spent our first night in the rooftop tent after a stunning sunset, accompanied by the grunting of hippos in the river.
The next day, we set off early, heading to Kafue NP. In fact, we’ll always leave early—waking up between 5:00 and 5:30 AM and hitting the road an hour later. Kafue is a lesser-known park, mostly forested, and the animals are skittish because they’re not used to human presence. We crossed the park from south to north and came across various antelopes. Near Lake Itezhi-Tezhi, there are plains where wildlife is easier to spot.
After Kafue, we headed to South Luangwa. This journey requires stops in Mumbwa and Petauke. Two pleasant stops where we found lodges (a nice change from the rooftop tent) at affordable prices and met welcoming people.
For me, South Luangwa is Zambia’s most beautiful park—the river is stunning, the landscapes are gorgeous, and there’s a wide variety of wildlife, including, of course, big cats. A tip for those, like us, who aren’t with a guide: if you’re staying near the park for several days, don’t hesitate to do a "game drive" to scout out where the animals are so you can return the next day with your own vehicle. Of course, in the dry season, you’ll want to focus on waterholes to see the animals—and you’ll need a bit of luck too. The elephant population is growing, and we were lucky enough to see around sixty elephants crossing the Luangwa at dawn, spread across several groups. South Luangwa is the westernmost point of our trip, and we’re now heading east to Lower Zambezi.
Lower Zambezi is Zambia’s side of Mana Pools on the Zimbabwe side. We took a boat ride on the Zambezi to see elephants, hippos, crocodiles, and a multitude of birds living along the water and on the river’s islands. The sunset there is also magnificent.
To explore the park, we followed the waterways parallel to the Zambezi, mostly on the western side (see our route). Lower Zambezi is the last park we visit, and the final leg of our trip will be Victoria Falls.
Victoria Falls—or Mosi-Oa-Tunya ("The Smoke That Thunders")—are truly impressive, even during the dry season. We saw the falls from both countries: in Zambia for the overall view and the bridge that serves as the border, and in Zimbabwe to get as close as possible to the most spectacular parts of the falls.
This marks the end of our trip, which, despite a blown tire on the road, went off without any major issues. Zambia is a beautiful country that immerses you in wild, still-preserved nature.
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary:
27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)
-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)
-->7 days in Tokyo
The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots...
decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring
research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan
book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later
reserve rental cars
order yen
check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life!
Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats.
Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited.
Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Before Our Departure
Preparing for this trip started 9 months before our departure in June. For those planning a similar itinerary, it’s important to book accommodations well in advance, especially in the Okavango and Savuti campsites—otherwise, you might not find any availability.
Introduction
After visiting Zambia three years ago and Namibia and western Botswana a year and a half ago, this year we chose Zimbabwe (Hwange NP) and the northern half of Botswana.
Our flight from Paris was to Victoria Falls with Ethiopian Airlines, with a layover in Addis Ababa. We rented a 4x4 from Bushlore in Kasane, complete with two rooftop tents since there are four of us on this adventure. Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4 and, most importantly, gave us a rundown of the vehicle and its equipment. Pay close attention to what they tell you—it could be crucial if something goes wrong, as it did for us during the trip.
Our Itinerary
We arrived on June 12th at noon. At Victoria Falls Airport, we got our double-entry visa right away—I’d already pre-booked it online on the site https://www.evisa.gov.zw/.
Since our vehicle was in Botswana, we had to cross the border from Victoria Falls into Botswana for the first time.
The next morning, Bushlore picked us up from our guesthouse to collect our 4x4. After completing the formalities, we headed toward Zimbabwe and the town of Victoria Falls.
We woke up early the next morning to be at Victoria Falls at sunrise. The scenery was stunning, but since it was the start of the dry season, the Zambezi was still high, so the falls had a strong flow. This made it hard to fully appreciate their beauty.
In the early afternoon, we left for Hwange NP, where we stayed for 4 days. Two days at Gwango campsite near Dete, followed by two days at Robins Camp. We expected to see more animals at Robins, but that wasn’t the case. In Hwange, we didn’t spot any predators, but we did see plenty of mammals (buffalo, elephants, giraffes, zebras, and antelopes).
After a few days in Zimbabwe, we crossed back into Botswana at Pandamatenga. We stopped at Nata Lodge for a good night’s rest—driving on the dirt roads is exhausting.
We left Nata and headed toward Nxai Pan. The road was sandy but manageable. We made a small detour to admire some beautiful baobabs at "Baines Baobabs." Then we continued to our campsite, Nxai Pan South Camp. Keep in mind that many campsites in Botswana aren’t fenced (except for the shower/toilet areas), so animals can roam freely within the camp. Take precautions, especially after dark.
After our stop in Nxai Pan, we headed to Maun. We decided to break our journey in Maun before heading to Moremi and the Okavango Delta for three reasons: first, we needed to stock up on supplies and fuel for the next 5 days; second, our fridge had broken (luckily, Bushlore has a branch in Maun); and third, the drive from Nxai to our camp in Xakanaxa in the delta would’ve taken too long. I always avoid driving after dark.
We arrived at our Xakanaxa camp on June 21st in the early afternoon. Not wanting to waste time, we booked a boat ride on the Okavango Delta, leaving at 4:00 PM for a 2-hour sunset cruise. For those interested, to the right of the Xakanaxa X1 site, there’s a sign for boat rides. The organizer is very professional and offers prices that are nothing like those of the lodges.
It was a beautiful ride through the delta with a stunning sunset. Being on a boat is much more relaxing than driving on the dirt roads. That didn’t stop us from doing self-drive safaris the next morning and late afternoon, though.
Then came the time to leave the delta and head toward Savuti, a much drier region. And that’s when the toughest part of our trip began. First, we decided to go up via Khwai. The rainy season was over, but the area was still marshy. We had to cross a few small water patches, testing the depth to make sure we could get through. Luckily, a sign on the road pointed us toward a drier route. We reached Khwai without any issues, but then we made a major mistake. Instead of taking the main track toward Mababe Gate to reach Savuti Camp, we took a straight path north and then a right turn to get to our camp. Bad call—we got stuck in the sand, with one rear wheel buried halfway and a front wheel off the ground. We were genuinely scared we wouldn’t get out, especially since we were on a deserted track, 20 kilometers from our destination, with night falling in two hours. This is where paying attention to the vehicle instructions really paid off—we had to use the jack to get out of the mess. The result: we arrived at Savuti campsite just before dark (Distance: 146.3 km, Duration: 9 hours, 56 minutes, and 3 seconds, Average speed: 14.7 km/h, tracked with Osmand). At reception, the staff couldn’t understand how we’d gotten there—we hadn’t passed through any of Savuti’s reserve entry gates.
The next morning, no one felt like driving, so we did a game drive with a guide. I don’t know if it was some kind of reward, but the outing was amazing. We saw three lions and, best of all, a pack of African wild dogs that we had time to admire and photograph. The next day, we did a short self-drive and found one of the lions from the day before drinking at a waterhole. That was the end of our Savuti adventure.
Now we’re heading to Kasane. We returned our vehicle and settled in for our last two nights there. The next morning, since we no longer had a car, we decided to do one last early-morning game drive in Chobe NP. It turned out great—we followed two brother lions and saw plenty of other mammals. The only downside of Chobe is the number of tourists, which was a change from the other parks we’d visited. That said, we’re tourists too, so...
In the evening, we took one last boat ride on the Chobe River to end on a high note with a beautiful sunset.
After a good night’s sleep and plenty of wonderful memories, landscapes, animals, and emotions, it was time to leave. We left early in the morning with the same taxi company as before to cross the border into Zimbabwe one last time and head to the airport, where we took off to return to France.
We all have two lives. And the second one kicks off the day you realize you only have one, with the determination to spend the time you have left on what truly adds sparkle to your life, Kevin! I like to elegantly introduce a trip with a philosophical quote. First, it gives you the illusion that I’m some kind of deep thinker, and second, it lets me fill up the first few lines of my blank page when I don’t know how to tell you I’m diving back into what really lights up my life: another adventure beyond the horizon! And nearly every other year, like a toxic relationship, my horizon tends to take shape in Uncle Sam’s backyard. And this, despite his cousin Donald calling the shots. Speaking of which, it was partly that impulsive guy who pushed us to be just as impulsive and snag our four flight tickets at a ridiculously low price—a direct result of foreign tourism taking a hit from BetaMax’s repeated antics... Four tickets? Who are the other lucky ones? In this case, our lucky ones are actually lucky ladies: My Flo, always up for exploring the world with me on foot, camelback, or scooter, is obviously in on the fun. The other two seats went to our daughters, Sasha and Luna, both thrilled to be part of this new American adventure...
But what’s the American West like in February?... A gamble. Let’s call it Russian roulette since we’re not landing during peak weather season. That’s why we encouraged our transportation and accommodation to get cozy and produce a little camper van, so we can stay ultra-flexible in the face of any weather tantrums. We’ll be roaming in Kara the van with the motto "Follow the sun!" Bad weather? We bolt. Snow? We speed up. Sunny? We act like it was the plan all along and soak it up.
"Okay, but why keep coming back to the same corner of the globe? After ten American adventures, you must be tired of seeing the same things, right?" But I’m not crazy, you know!... The American West is like making love to your gorgeous wife over and over, always enjoying it just as much. And contrary to what you might think, the American West isn’t just the Grand Canyon, Monument Valley, Las Vegas, and Bryce Canyon. Proof is, after ten trips to the U.S., my retinas are still untouched by three-quarters of the places I scribbled on a napkin for this adventure... Oh, and add to that my wife, who I’ve easily converted to my religion, and boom... relapse is even easier! Because yes, we’ve landed in Los Angeles after a sunny flight over Greenland, still under Danish flag for now. And we’re already heading east through the XXL traffic of L.A.’s eight-lane highways, eager to dive into our first discoveries. But first, night is taking over the sky, and second, we’ve been officially awake for 24 hours, so I suggest wrapping up this intro. I’ll tell you more tomorrow morning. Sound good?
This travel journal aims to help future travelers (well, I hope so!), since there’s so little information available about this remote archipelago. Big thanks to Lolodesiles and Ayis for answering my questions while I planned this trip!
Context
This is our fourth trip to Indonesia as a couple—after Java-Bali in 2011, Flores-Komodo in 2013, and Sulawesi in 2016—each time for three weeks. It’s also our tenth trip to Southeast Asia overall.
We’re traveling like we have in previous years: with a rough itinerary that often changes based on who we meet, tips from other travelers, how tired we are, or what we’re feeling in the moment. In the Moluccas, it’ll change constantly, mostly depending on transportation.
Our only accommodation booking: the first few nights in Ambon when we arrive.
Planned route (to be refined on the spot): Ambon - Banda Islands - Lease Islands - Ternate - Tidore - Halmahera (between Sofifi and Tobelo) - Morotai and the neighboring unnamed archipelago.
Flights: Lyon-Paris-Singapore on Air France (428 € round-trip), with good meals, champagne, and wine (we like our little comforts when going on vacation 😏). Then Singapore-Jakarta-Ambon on Air Asia and Garuda.
Return flight: Ternate-Jakarta-Singapore on Lion Air, with a 3-day stopover in Singapore before heading home.
Episode 1: Ambon to Banda
Our guesthouse, booked two days before departure, is 45 minutes from Ambon Airport, near Natsepa Beach (northeast of Leihitu). It’s a pretty average beach—quiet on weekdays but packed on Sundays (we saw the difference). It’s lined with warungs.
This rainy day helps us readjust to the atmosphere of this country we love so much.
Our “Solim Guesthouse” is a lovely house with a living/dining room and garden, costing 15 € per night for two, including a hearty breakfast.
Dinner is at Gaba Gaba, a great restaurant just a short walk away, right by the water, recommended by our host. Fun fact: it’s in the Lonely Planet, and it might be the only LP-listed spot in the Moluccas that actually matches the description (the others either don’t exist or have nothing to do with what’s advertised 😠).
For the next two days, the super-friendly owner lends us his scooter. We set off to explore the coastal villages in northern Leihitu (the western part of Ambon Island, which has a weird shape).
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
Liang Beach, described as the island’s most beautiful, is almost gone (climate change or something else?), but the colors are magical.
We continue 25 km toward a snorkeling spot our host recommended, taking a gorgeous, deserted little road through tiny villages in clove plantations (oh, those unforgettable scents!), stunning coves, and dense forest.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
We ask for directions to the snorkeling spot (not easy—we only know basic Indonesian like *Selamat pagi*, *siang*, *sore*, and other polite phrases). Not many people know where it is (especially since we never know which village we’re in), but we eventually reach a small village that seems to be the right place. 🙂
We ask a local to take us there by boat (it’s not reachable by land).
The spot is at most 100 meters long, but the coral is in good condition (apparently not dynamited by fishermen, unlike in other parts of this beautiful country where fishing methods are destructive and nature pays the price 😠). The fish are plentiful and diverse. It’s a great start before heading to Banda. We’re happy to have the place to ourselves… though we don’t yet realize we won’t see a single tourist for the rest of the trip!
After two days of rest, we head to Tulehu Port in the morning, aiming for the Banda Islands. We know the journey is often tricky: the Pelni ferry runs twice a month but doesn’t match our dates, the 10-seat Suzi Air plane is always full (you can’t book—you have to show up on Mondays and Fridays), and it’s often canceled due to weather. So we opt for the Tuesday speedboat (which also gets canceled if there are waves or wind), with the next one on Saturday.
We’re used to Indonesian ports—crowded, rusty boats, no English speakers—but we still feel lost. When I ask about the speedboat to Bandaneira, people gesture wildly, someone takes me to the “harbor office,” then tells me there’s no boat, others try to sell me tickets, and some just say, “No boat.”
Luckily, an English-speaking local approaches us and confirms the speedboat is broken. The next one will be Saturday *if* it’s fixed—otherwise, even later. 🤪 😠
We’re crushed. We came here for the Banda Islands… 🙁
We decide waiting five days for a maybe-boat isn’t an option, so we decide to head straight to North Moluccas, which was planned for later. We’re so disappointed we don’t even want to stay in the area. The Lease Islands don’t appeal to us despite what we’ve read, and Seram would deserve its own trip with its remote mountain tribes.
Huge disappointment—we’d been dreaming of Banda for months, with its incredible drop-offs like Bunaken, its islands covered in nutmeg trees, etc. I’d read that Banda is in the world’s top 5, alongside Bunaken (amazing—we went in 2016), Komodo (incredible—we went in 2013), Sipadan, and another spot I’ve forgotten.
We take a taxi back to Ambon (45 minutes) to a travel agency to buy plane tickets to Ternate. There’s a daily ATR72 flight at noon—perfect timing.
Ambon is the capital of South Moluccas (or Central, depending on who you ask!) with 300,000 people. The city doesn’t seem unpleasant, but we don’t stop.
On the plane, there are only about ten passengers for 72 seats. The flight attendants are stunning, as always with Wings Air—clearly, they’re hired for their looks. 😊
Stopover in Bacan—a runway in the middle of coconut trees serving a tiny town—then we fly over countless volcanoes, the last one towering over Ternate.
Bonjour,
De retour sur le forum - et première rédaction d'un espèce de carnet de retour de notre 4ème voyage en Indo.
Contexte : une trentaine de jours, en scooter et en duo, sur Florès (et une petite incursion dans l'archipel de Solor, plus précisément à Lembata (chut, faut pas trop en parler !!!), qui donne envie d'en faire beaucoup plus là bas malgré les infrastructures sporadiques), en partie dans des destinations déjà bien connues du forum (la classique Ruteng / Bajawa / Riung / Moni voir baie de Maumere) ... et qui ne parlera pas du PN de Komodo ou de Wae Rebo, puisque nous n'y sommes pas allés 🏴☠️.
Texte en anglais (issu d'une autre plateforme). Sans nul doute, des traducteurs intelligents ou pas marcheront à merveille en cas d'anglophobie 🤪.
Disponible à toute fin utile pour des détails ou infos.
Equippement : Yam' Nmax 155 ; 2x saccoches cavalières (25L) + sac de selle (30L) + saccoche tunnel (15L pour le matos photo) ; casques et vêtements d'enduro amenés depuis la France.
Itinéraire : boucle depuis Labuan bajo jusqu'à Pulau Lembata ; juillet-août 2026
Road conditions graded from A (excellent) to D (very bad, at least for a Scooter… a CRF/KLX or even honda ADV would do better on that)
D1 : Labuan Bajo – Reok via Ranggoe, Rego & Tagol (130km ; 5hrs). Section LBajo – Rego (90 km ; B) is quite good tarmac, despite a lot of elevation with many small valleys and passes. Rego – Tagol (10km ; D) is a stone road (not gravel), some ascents & very poor condition ; necessary to lower tyre pressure. Tagol – Reok port (22km, quality depends considerably from D to B). Reok port – Towncenter : B. Night @Iffah Homestay (100k for fan room, mandi attached, no breakfast), simple but clean. Notes : path to danau Sano Limbung was closed ; access to Tiwu Pai & Wae Kuli (waterfalls) not permitted in july 2026.
D2 : Reok – Riung via Pota (105km ; 3h-3h30). The road is very narrow in some part, thanks to the uncut bushes (lowering visibility hence extra caution as animals/people can suddenly appear in a turn…) but generally good condition except many eroded sections and some unpaved ones. Grade C/B. 2 nights @Mentos (285k for AC room)
D3 : Boat tour in Riung (booked directly with a captain, 800k for two for private boat incl. lunch and NP fees) + sunset from Watu Mitong Riung (should not be missed).
D4 : Riung – Muku Saki via Mbay (around 100km ; 3h30). Quality varies from A in the vicinity of Mbay to eroded sections (C) in secluded places. Night @Sao Paolo Homestay (250k for fan room with mandi, maybe overpriced but nice house and great food). Note : if you happen to pass by Mbay on Saturday, the market is well worth a stop (cheapest Ikat on the trip : you’ll be asked normal prices providing you’re OK in Bahasa…)
D5 : Muku Saki – Tanjung Kajuwulu (near Ndete) (90km, 3h). Many patholes, eroded (C). Night at Déjà Vu Homestay (220k for a matress on the floor & outside mandi/toilets ; I woud define this as a tourist trap – the quote we had for food was double priced too…)
D6 : Tanjung Kajuwulu – Waiterang (east of Maumere, 55km , 1h30). Pathholes till maumere, then All good (TransFlores), C/A. Night at Sunset Cottage (new concrete room, very serene place ; 270k for AC with bathroom ; much prefered Sunset over Lena House (more customers, more built up).
D7 : Waiterang – Larantuka via Boru and Eputobi (TransFlores ; grade A ; 115km / 2h40). Particularly liked the drink stalls (marked as Rest Area Eputobi) and the out of order aquatic park just before Larantuka (obyej wisata waiplatin). Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay, which is not advertising itself as Larantuka Beach Homestay as some contributor signals here and on goole maps review. Best breakfast of the trip (Cumi Cumi !!!) ; 275k for AC room with bathroom.
D8 : Local Boat (Kapal Kayu) from the main port to Lembata (Lewoleba). Departure 8am ; price 60k/head + 50k for the bike. Stop enroute on Adonara (where we did not stop due to fights between communities). Night @Elmany Homestay (275k for AC room with bathroom, fan room with shared bathroom also available). Whole afternoon at Pantai Hadakewa, fantastic place (good snorkeling, great views of Ile Api aka Gn Lewotolo). Road condition : A (did not expect the TransLembata to be that good…).
D9 : Loop around Ile Api (50km, 2hrs), anticlockwise. Stops enroute at Situs Tulang Paus (whale squeletton), pantai Jotona, pantai Wena (we expected to snorkel from there, but wind was very strong that day), situs Watu Nale, Selat Sonia. The western coast is far less interesting. Road conditions : bad (C) on the eastern side (up to Riangbeda), good (B/A) afterwards. Night @Elmany Homestay.
D10 : Lewoleba – Lamalera via the western and south coast (70km, 2h30). Good road (B) for roughly the first 55km (up to Tapobali), then eroded track for the last 15km (in some parts steep and dangerous) up to Lamalera (D/C). Notes : 1/ Kuma resort denied us the entry for some drink ; 2/Pantai Waijarang « complex » is abandonned but closed with fences ; you can still sneak in ; 3/ some reports advise to skip Bukit Cinta (foreigner entry fee) for Bukit Doa Watomiten (stations of the cross) ; well Bukit Cinta has also been abandonned (well spent money…sic) but remains opened with structures falling (quickly) appart. Night @Lamalera Inn (200k per head including meals ; very basic fan room + attached mandi). Planned 2 nights, spent only one, as it’s the only tenant I had difficulties with (only interested in money, initially stated crazy prices, starts loud music at 6am … and drinking moke at 8am…)
D11 : Trip to Wulandoni for the Barter Market (Saturday only). Bad road (C) along the coast. Had to report at the Kantor upon arrival, which quite surprisingly asked 100k per person (foreigner) to go inside the (outside) market. Other « local » tourists (a group from Jakarta) were not asked to pay. Well, since a market is a public space and not a zoo, we refused payment and enjoyed the activity from the kopi stall next to it. Returned then to Lamalera for the catches of the day, then to Lewoleba via the mountain road (45km, 2 hours). First 10km to Puor is in very bad condition and uphill (D/C). The remaining is on a newly constructed road (A). Note : Air Panas Sabutobo is abandonned and falling apart (again…) but there are still some water pipes along the river that you can enjoy (depending how lucky you are, just with the forest sounds as companion). Night @Elmany Homestay
D12 : Chill day alond the northern coast (Batu Payung, Pantai Hadakewa with lot of snorkeling, drove till Wailolong and backtracked to Pantai Lewolein for more snorkeling (nice canyons there !) and another fantastic sunset over Ile Api (see GMaps pictures)). Night @Elmany Homestay
D13 : Monday weekly market at Pada, southwest of Lewoleba. Renowned but honnestly dont plan any itinerary specifically for it, just an ordinary Kampung weekly market. Returned to Larantuka and Flores with the 12pm local boat (the same boat that leaves from Larantuka at 8am). Same prices as the first leg. Night @ Dewy Onong Homestay
D14 : Larantuka – Waiterang along the northern coast (100km, 3h) via Pantai Kawaliwu, Tewuk Lewokluok (trail is easy to find, very nice snorkelling in a lagoon), Pantai Lato (to my opinion the most beautiful beach on Flores and you’ll be the only visitor, as opposed to Pantai Koka) and Pantai Hia, until rejoining the TransFlores near Nebe. Grade C on the costal eroded road / track. 3 nights @Lena Guesthouse (booked ahead as it fills up quickly, but we prefered its neighbour Sunset Beach Guesthouse)
D15 : Snorkeling trip organised by Lena Guesthouse (200k per head excluding NP fees and lunch)). The drop-off near Pulau Babi is a very nice spot.
D16 : scooter day trip around the Egon Range (too lazy to hike it…), through nice Sikka villages (route : Watublapi, Umauta, Bola, pantai Doreng, Nakatoli, foot of Gn Egon, Air panas Blidit). The track from Natakoli to the foot of Gn Egon is very steep, damaged and wet (with moss) ; I would recommend not to attempt that in case of bad weather.
D17 : Waiterang – Moni (130km, 3h30, transflores grade A/B) via Pantai Koka (refused to pay the mafia entry fee…) and Jopu (some rumah Adat Lio). Stopped at Museum Bikon Blewut, south of Maumere. Very nice artefacts (especially wooden statues from Papuan, great ikat collection) although very disorganized and sadly non-visited (hence masterpieces fall into oblivion). 2 Nights @Liahz Lodge (150k for fan room, basic bathroom… but right next to Air Panas Liasembe (free, no closing time) !!!).
D18 : Sunrise from Kelimutu with a nice weather (stayed until 8.30am). I don’t know if the sunrise is really worth it (lot of people ascending and watching the sunrise – a lot but nothing compared to e.g. Gn Bromo), nearly everyone going down around 7am, then there is virtually nobody. Trip (20km one way, good road B) to Kampung Adat Nggela (Lio). Although the village is habited and mostly out of the beaten path, I have mixed fillings due to the fact that most ladies (some are pushy) try to sell you (bad) pieces of ikat.
D19 : Moni – Ende via Detusoko paddy fields, Kampung Adat Saga (Lio) and Puncak Ndona ; 75km 2h30. We really liked Saga (nice setting on the mountain, friendly villagers, no selling, mix between traditional and more modern houses in that lively village). Sunset from Bukit Raja, on the peninsula with a 360 view on Gn Iya, Gn Meja Kota Ende and the mountains behind. Note : at the end of the road (search for Gunung Meja Tourist Info Center), there is a (sand) track leading to the path. 1/ only intend the track if you have off road driving experience ; 2/ dont trust the walking time stated by Maps.me. Took us 45mins on a steady pace to reach the summit. Night @Hoja Homestay, 300k for a comfortable AC room with bathroom.
D20 : Ende – Bajawa, via Air Panas Mengeruda ; grade A, 120km, 3 hours. Note : don’t plan to short in Mengeruda (Soa), very easy to spend a half day there, especially if playing with local kids. Stay @Cinnamon GH, 250k for double with fan and hot shower (cheaper options with shared hot shower availlable).
D21 : First day in Bajawa : Watu Nari Wowo (Avatar Hill, sic…), Kampung Adat Ngada Tololela & Gurusina (very very friendly people, complementary views of Gn Inerie & Wolo Deru). Sunset from Puncak Manulalu (well… Heaven’s door Bar & Restaurant)
D22 : Second day in Bajawa : Kampung Adat Ngio (hardly visited, best view on Gn Inerie), Air Panas Malanage, Kampung Adat Bena (the most visited Ngada village (after Bela ?) in the area, we went there at the end of the afternoon to avoid tours, early morning would be fine too), and Gunung Wolobobo for a terrific sunset
D23 : returned to Gunung Wolobobo for sunrise with Gn Ebulobo in the distance (search for a track on the eastern slope, near the communication antenna). You can circuit the rim to the usual viewpoint (westside, sunset spot), the path is easy to find. Then took again the road to Aimere, visiting Kampung Adat Belaraghi enroute (the setting is maybe less rewarding than all the previous villages). 56km ; 1h30. The road to Belaraghi is fine, except the final part.
D24 : Aimere – Ruteng (105km, 3h30). Nice detour by the paddy fields of Wodo (southwest of Golo Loni) of Sunset from Golo Curu (nice encounters with locals). Night @Tange GH, 130k for room with outside (private) bathroom, no breakfast.
D25 : Surroundings of Ruteng (paddy fields north and east of ruteng ; Maps.me has funny tracks starting from Kenda), and the rather pleasant city itself (pasar, churches, lapangan). We finally skipped Liang Bua.
D26 : Ruteng - Labuan Bajo (130km, 3h30). No visits of the waterfalls close to the TransFlores (entry fee (with bule prices) + mandatory guide etc…). Sunset from Bukit Hercadi with very few locals (Bukit Sylvia & Bukit Amelia, just south, were packed). 2 nights @Wellamas Homestay, away from the harbour and its advantages/disadvantages. 230k for comfortable AC room with hot shower.
D27 : New road to Golo Mori Convention Center (another big money well spent…), with nice views on the strait separating Flores from Pulau Rinca. Some empty beaches (e.g. Pantai Pasir Pajang ; we were there on a weekday perhaps frequented by people from LBajo only). 30km (40 mins) one way, perhaps the fastest road of Flores…
D28 : Morning on the peninsula north of Labuan Bajo before taking a flight to Jakarta in the afternoon. On Google maps, the asphalt road only goes to Teras Langit ; it now (august 2026) continues to Puncak Basok and is still in progress towards the eastern part of the peninsula. On the way back, two other nice Bukit where you can enjoy nice views on the bay (and the resorts…) : Bukit Lontar & Bukit Beta. Note : we only found one public (and nice and quiet) beach in the area ; tagged as Sunset Point Beach on Gmaps. All the rest was closed by fences ; they are privately owned (although the Indonesian consitution grants the coastline as public space).
We're a family of five: one dad, one mom, and three kids aged 10, 15, and 18.
Before diving into each stop in more detail, here are a few general thoughts:
We wanted to sample a bit of everything Japan has to offer in terms of landscapes, accommodation, and transport. We were after walks, temples, restaurants, shopping, and some downtime—but no "all-inclusive experiences" or museums for this first visit.
Three medium-sized (60x42x25) canvas suitcases, plus a duffel bag and a few small backpacks. 23 kg in the hold on the way out, 60 kg on the way back. 36 kg of shopping, without even trying. I think this is the maximum suitcase size if you don’t want to stress on the Shinkansen: they fit easily in the overhead racks.
Round-trip with Cathay Pacific, layover in Hong Kong: no need to collect luggage in Hong Kong—we checked it in at departure and picked it up in Tokyo, and the same on the way back (checked in Osaka, picked up at our final destination). This let us explore Hong Kong without worrying about our bags. Food and entertainment were pretty good—meals included a little Häagen-Dazs on each flight, and the entertainment had way more Asian cinema than you’d find on a Western airline, which was a nice way to see how much weight Western culture carries in Asia.
The original plan was to fly directly from Ishigaki to Hong Kong, but due to Typhoon Dolphin, we had to cancel the Ishigaki leg. Cathay didn’t bat an eye about swapping the Ishigaki-HK flight for an Osaka-HK one, even though it was twice as long.
We were a bit too attached to the idea of ending the trip with some beach time and replaced Ishigaki with Shirahama. It was a mistake—we should’ve visited Hiroshima or spent a little more time in Tokyo instead.
Last February, I made a trip using "public transport" from France to southern Senegal via Spain, Morocco, Western Sahara, and Mauritania.
It’s a journey of about 5,000 km, where I took trains (as far as Marrakech), ferries (to cross Gibraltar and then to reach Casamance from Dakar), and mostly buses on the long desert straightaways. I hadn’t planned any stops in advance or booked any hotels, except for the very first train to Spain, which left plenty of room for the unexpected.
Why travel by land and sea? In recent years, flight-free travel has been gaining popularity. On social media, posts explaining how to cross Europe by train as quickly as possible go viral. Traveling without flying—and making sure people know about it—has become a great way to earn a badge of eco-responsibility: an essential totem for anyone wanting to prove both their dedication to the ecological cause and the wisdom of slow travel.
I haven’t flown in years, and this journey to West Africa could easily be filed under "responsible travel." But it wouldn’t be honest to say that: in reality, it wasn’t really my aversion to flying that motivated this long trek. I see overland travel primarily as a way to experience the world’s geography at a grounded, earthly pace—the pace of the locals. Besides, I’ll be flying back, which disqualifies any claim to being a model of sustainability.
So no eco-badge, and no adventurer’s badge either: you won’t find any heroic tales of camel rides in lost lands or mineral train wagons in this account (popular with influencers, the Mauritania iron ore train now attracts tourists from all over the world, turning "the experience" into something you "have to do at least once in your life"). This five-part story, written on the road, has no other ambition than to recount a journey through places and people, and to share the thoughts they inspire in me. As simply and, I hope, as humbly as possible.
I’m posting the episodes here, which you can also find on my blog (with more photos) at the following links:
Episode 1: Spain, from Avignon to Algeciras
Episode 2: Morocco, from Tangier to Tarfaya
Episode 3: Western Sahara, from Tarfaya to Guerguerat
Episode 4: Mauritania, from Guerguerat to Nouakchott
Episode 5: Senegal, from Rosso to Saloulou
To help those who might want to make the same trip, I’ve also put together a summary of the route with recommendations—you can read it at the end of the story and on the blog:
From France to Senegal Without Flying: Route and Itinerary Recommendations
Hello and welcome aboard this new travel journal!
We’re heading off to Ireland together—a country I’ve wanted to explore for a very long time.
The moment has finally arrived.
We’ll be traveling as a family—my wife, my husband, and our 7-year-old daughter.
Here’s our itinerary:
24/07: Flight from Marseille to Dublin, overnight in Dublin
25/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
26/07: Dublin, overnight in Dublin
27/07: Pick up rental car, drive to Dingle, overnight near Tralee on the peninsula
28/07: Visit the Ring of Kerry
29/07: Adare, Bunratty Castle, Galway, overnight in Outheragh, near Galway
30/07: Cliffs of Moher, overnight in Outheragh
31/07: Connemara, overnight in Outheragh
01/08: Drive to Sligo via Westport and Downpatrick Head, overnight in Sligo
02/08: Slieve League, Silver Strand Beach, Glencolmcille, overnight in Sligo
03/08: Drive to Derry via Glenveagh National Park, overnight in Derry
04/08: Giant’s Causeway, Dunluce Castle, Portrush, Derry, overnight in Derry
05/08: Drive to Belfast, visit Belfast, overnight in Lisburn (Belfast suburbs)
06/08: Game of Thrones filming locations: Dark Hedges, Carrick-a-Rede, Ballintoy, etc., overnight in Lisburn
07/08: Drive to the Wicklow Mountains, visit Wicklow Mountains National Park, overnight in Blessington
08/08: Drive back to Dublin and return to Marseille.
Cost breakdown:
Flights:
Outbound flights with KLM via Amsterdam for 3: 175 € + 40,000 Flying Blue miles (so essentially a free ticket)
Return flight with Aer Lingus for 3: 489 €
Rental car:
10 days booked with Enterprise via Carigami: 443 € including zero-excess insurance.
Accommodation:
Dublin: 3 nights at Maldron Hotel New Cross: 394 €
Tralee: 2 nights in a caravan (Ocean Trail Oasis): 292 €
Outheragh: 3 nights Airbnb, family room with private bathroom: 430 €
Sligo: 2 nights at Clayton Hotel: 456 €
Derry: 2 nights at Belfray Inn: 255 €
Lisburn: 2 nights at Temple Golf Club: 232 €
Blessington: 1 night at Baltyboys Lodges B&B: 158 €
That brings our total to 3,325 € for three.
On the ground, visits, fuel, and food cost around 2,500 €.
So this was quite an expensive trip.
A few price examples:
1 liter of unleaded fuel: 1.89 €
3-day pass in Dublin: 18 €
1 scoop of ice cream: 5 to 6.5 €
Castle visit: 15 € per person
A coffee: 3-4 €
A glass of wine at a restaurant: 8-10 €
A half-pint of Guinness: 7-12 €
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of our adventure in Ireland:
Our decision is our decision. And it’s firm and final. Next winter, our plane will spread its great wings toward the island of Ceylon! "Wait a minute... Ceylon... Ceylon... that name rings a bell, but I can’t quite place it on the globe Grandma gave me for Christmas! Ceylon... Oh right, I’ve got it: Ceylon is the name of my tea!" Exactly. But the name on your pretty tea box is also the one used until 1972 for this island nation, a speck on the Indian Ocean at the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent: Sri Lanka!
For this new adventure, I’m exceptionally leaving my Flo behind, cowardly replaced by a double dose of testosterone. To write the book of this journey with me, I’m bringing along my brother, who’s used to this kind of thing, and... a guest star: My model of resilience. My dad! All aboard! Or rather, all aboard our tuk-tuk! Yes, you read that right: A real tuk-tuk, a little colorful rolling box that putters along at two miles an hour. The idea? Well, Sri Lanka and its winding roads overlooking the vastness of lush nature are tailor-made for this kind of vehicle. And since it’s one of only two countries in the world that allow foreigners to rent and drive these mini speedsters, we’ll be crisscrossing the island in our two-square-meter rolling box. Plus, adopting this mode of transport is a surefire way to connect directly with the locals, who’ll surely be curious to see a foreigner driving their iconic vehicle. Not to mention the... let’s say... spicy anecdotes it might generate. I mean, heading into a subtropical zone with my jet-black dad and his unpredictable digestive flora while deliberately choosing the tuk-tuk as our *only* means of transport? That’s the winning combo for an unforgettable adventure! "More seriously, Dad, Sullivan, I’m already loving the idea of living this adventure together, the three of us—brothers and father..."
So, does the intro to this new adventure get your salivary glands going? Yes? Too bad. Because unfortunately, the program handed out by the lady at the entrance has been slightly... let’s say *crumpled*. Some might even say "scrunched up and nearly tossed in the trash." First, six days ago, as the countdown echoed in us like a call to adventure, Cyclone Ditwah grabbed Sri Lanka, played with it like a rag doll, and left it battered on the ground. The toll is devastating: over a thousand dead, thousands of homes wiped out by relentless rains, roads and railways swallowed by massive mudslides. A country wounded once again, after the civil war, the 2004 tsunami, and the post-Covid economic crisis.
But as if this weather disaster wasn’t enough to shake our unbreakable adventurer spirit, fate decided to mess with us further by cutting our trio down to two. The victim? My brother, violently turned away because of a simple date on his passport that didn’t match the border officials’ expectations. Return to sender!
So now it’s just the two of us allowed to board the Qatar Airways Airbus A380 for this trip. If he were here, Denis Brognart would say, "And in the end, only one remains!" Except I know you’ll be with us, following our adventures! Right?
Hello everyone, I’m happy to welcome you to this new travel journal.
We’re heading to Costa Rica together—a Central American destination that dreams are made of for many French travelers and attracts crowds from France.
It was the country’s wild nature and safety that convinced us to go, since we’re traveling with our 7-year-old little one.
We didn’t have much vacation time in February 2026 (only 12 days), so we optimized as much as possible.
Here’s the itinerary:
Wednesday, February 11: Flight from Marseille to San Jose via Paris and Atlanta
Thursday, February 12: Pick up the car, drive to Poas Volcano, visit La Paz Waterfall Gardens
Friday, February 13: Poas Volcano and drive to Manuel Antonio
Saturday, February 14: Manuel Antonio National Park
Sunday, February 15: Nauyaca Waterfall and Playa Linda
Monday, February 16: Drive to Monte Verde and Santa Elena Reserve
Tuesday, February 17: El Tigre Waterfall Reserve and Treetopia Park
Wednesday, February 18: Monte Verde Reserve with a guide and drive to La Fortuna
Thursday, February 19: Sloth guided tour, Observatory Lodge Park
Friday, February 20: Arenal Volcano National Park, Termalistas del Arenal hot springs, and night tour
Saturday, February 21: Return to San Jose, flight to Paris via Atlanta
Sunday, February 22: Arrival in Paris and flight to Marseille.
That gives us a solid 9 days in the country.
Budget breakdown:
Costa Rica is an expensive country, but no more so than France. However, almost all hikes and waterfalls are paid entry, which can really add up.
For meals, sodas (6–10 €) are cheaper than restaurants (10–20 € per dish).
Flights:
We chose Delta Airlines for the price: Marseille to San Jose was 740 € per person (modifiable, with checked baggage and seat selection included).
Other direct flights from Europe were priced between 1200 € and 1600 € with more restrictive conditions.
That’s 2220 € for the family.
Accommodations:
Alajuela, first night: 139 € (1 night) at Rodeo Estancia Boutique Hotel, with personalized airport pickup, transfer to the hotel, and a briefing from Vert Costa Rica agency the next day.
Poas: 66 € (1 night) at Cabañas Tierra Fértil (entire apartment).
Manuel Antonio: 394 € (3 nights) at La Palapa Ecolodge (hotel in the jungle).
Monte Verde: Chalet Aloha Monteverde Cloud Forest (2 bedrooms): 125 € (2 nights).
La Fortuna: Arenal Dream Garden (1 bedroom): 217 € (3 nights).
Total: 941 €.
Car rental:
I went through Vert Costa Rica agency (Vincent is a French expat who set up the agency in Costa Rica and makes great YouTube videos with useful tips).
I rented a 4x4 that was delivered to the hotel the day after arrival and returned at the airport before the flight. The total was 772 €, including full insurance (zero deductible), a child seat, and a phone with a Costa Rican SIM and WhatsApp. The rental company was Poas Rent a Car. The vehicle was well-maintained—no complaints.
Gas: 100 € for the whole trip (3 fill-ups).
Activities:
To get discounts, I bought the pass offered by Vincent, which paid for itself after just one activity. It cost me 30 € (promo since I rented the car through him).
Prices are for 3 people. I’ve added stars to rate them:
La Paz Waterfall Gardens ****: 112 €
Poas Volcano National Park *: 33 €
Manuel Antonio National Park ****: 35 €
Nauyaca Waterfall ***: 25 €
Santa Elena Reserve **: 45 €
El Tigre Waterfall Reserve ****: 141 € (with meal)
Treetopia (ziplining, suspension bridges) **: 250 €
Guided tour of Monte Verde Reserve ***: 113 €
Sloth guided tour (with breakfast) ***: 115 €
Arenal Observatory Lodge (with meal) ****: 102 €
Arenal Volcano National Park *: 34 €
Termalistas del Arenal ****: 20 €
Night tour ***: 116 €
Total: 1171 €.
Meals: 600 €
My favorite restaurants:
Poas: Food court Mercaditas in Fraijanes
Manuel Antonio (near La Palapa): La Langosta and also El Patio
Near Nauyaca Waterfall: Ricar2 el Avión
Between Manuel Antonio and Monte Verde: Soda D’Calle
Santa Elena: HG’s Food
Guadalupe (between Monte Verde and La Fortuna): Soda Río Piedras
Arenal Observatory Lodge restaurant
Arenal Oasis Ecolodge restaurant
Other expenses: 300 € (groceries for breakfast, drinks, ice cream, souvenirs, etc.)
Total overall: 6065 € (about 2020 € per person).
Now, here’s the day-by-day account of this beautiful trip.
This zebra’s really beat up 😮
Not nice to stick out your tongue 😛
Khwai Village
Les ronds-points sont particulièrement intéressants puisqu'on y retrouve des emblèmes de la culture turkmène, soit le chien, soit un tapis, soit le cheval Ahal Teke soit des symboles musulmans, même si la présence d'artefacts islamiques est assez réduite.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
A little sneak peek?
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
The karst site:
(In the heart of Albergheria, on a street every visitor walks down—lovely message from an unidentified artist)
Laundry and trucks washed in the same stream.
We’re greeted dozens of times with “Hello Mister”—a daily routine in the Moluccas. Every time we stop, we pose for photos to be saved on locals’ smartphones. They don’t see tourists often.
